2. The aim for this Related Study is to investigate emerging female gender identity in post
war society and to those who challenged these norms ever since. My
Personal Investigation explored the impact of Covid-19 on the lives of young people and
how it has shaped our lives. I will focus my investigation on the post war 1950s ‘baby
boomer’ generation to better understand the depictions of women in culture
and sexual identity. To do this I will look at the negative (sexist) depictions of the
‘housewife’ in advertising and on television. My investigation will look at how these
negative depictions were challenged by radical second wave feminist artists who
subverted these stereotypes by minipulating fashion images and training their lenses on
their own bodies. These artist include Cindy Sherman, Eleanor Antin , Hannah Wilke,
Barbra Krugger and Martha Rosler. As a way of appreciating the legacy of these
important artist who helped shape female identity today, I will look a the recent fashion
photography of work by Miles Adlridge. By looking at his work I will see how the image
of a women in advertising has changed.
INTRODUCTION
3. 1900
Claude Cahun
Cindy Sherman
Lea Miller Miles Aldridge
WOMEN’S EQUALITY
TIMELINE-AMERICA
1913-Womens suffrage
march-Washington DC
1932-First women to be
elected in US senate
1944-Prohibiting
discrimination in pay on
account of sex
1973-Supreme court make
abortion legal
1981-First women to serve
on the supreme court
2000
1963-Equal pay act is
passed by congress
The Womens Liberation
Movement, 1960s
4. EMERGING
FEMINISM
1920s-50s
Here I will look at how women in the
1920’s-50’s started to fight female
gender norms through photography
and fashion and what was the start
to a massive movement for women.
5. 1920`s women's
fashion changed.
They were called "flappers" which were bold and freer with what
they wore. Dresses were shorter and lighter as materials had to
be rationed.
Women's clothing in the
1900s
THE EARLIEST SEEDS OF FEMINISM
POST WORLD WAR 1
6. THE EARLIEST SEEDS OF FEMINISM
The Dancing Flappers
The Flapper were a generation of
young Western women in the 1920`s.
They wore short skirts, bobbed their
hair, listened to jazz, smoked and
flaunted their annoyance ta what was
considered acceptable behaviour.
This shocked their Victorian parents.
They wated to break free from how
they were told to act and have fun
doing what they wanted.
"Making a spectacle
of themselves"
" They were free to be
wild, sexy expressive"
"Their parents
were appalled"
7. Women Becoming Equal
Through Fashion
Instead of corsets they wore camisoles, for knickers
they had bloomers or drawers. Waistlines dropped
and hemlines rose.
Women were now also permitted to show their bare
calves.
Shift dresses were very popular along with cloche
hats and scarves. Silhouettes matched a masculine
frame being streamlined.
THE EARLIEST SEEDS OF FEMINISM
POST WORLD WAR 1
These women were defying the
fashion world and wore suits that
only men would be seen in.
8. Claude Cahun who specialized in realism he experimented the idea of gender
identity and the subconscious mind. Her self-portraits from 1928 embodies her
attitudes, staring into the camera in outfits that aren't conventionally feminine or
masculine.
Cahun had an identity unique to her which put her ahead
of her times. She used mirrors and collages to show a
reflection of social norms.
She only got recognition for her work in the 1990`s.
"Under this mask, another
mask, I will never be finished
removing all these faces"
Claude Cahun
THE EARLIEST SEEDS OF FEMINISM
Claude Cahun
Women were gaining more attraction as
to how photography could tell a story
and its freedom from conventional arts.
With the evolution of new technology,
this coincided with feminist prevailing
the gender relations.
Cahuns work uses
very eccentric poses
with direct eye
contact with the
camera. She uses
different costume
and makeup to
enhance the images.
Her body is usually in
the frame.
9. Lee Miller was an American
surrealist artist who didn’t let her
gender or beauty define her.
Miller in Hitlers Bath
She was the official war
photographer for Vogue.
THE EARLIEST SEEDS OF FEMINISM
LEE MILLER
She is one of the early photographers to fight
gender stereotypes with the way she didn’t
define herself and how her photography
portrayed her . She is a reason many
photographers after her have followed in her
footsteps of non gender conforming.
Lea Millers images often showed
interesting backgrounds and used
this to compose her images as
these mid shot, environmental
portraits.
11. “Hugh Hefner is my enemy”
“ Men arent going to give up
their power and privilidge
easily, because they benefit
from oppresing women”
“Hefner has built an
empire based on
oppseressing women”
Two women on the Dick Cavett
show talking about the women’s
Liberation and how women have
been oppressed by men and how
there need to be a change.
“You make them look
like animals, women
are`nt bunnies they’re not
rabbits there human
beings”
“What we would really
like if for there to be no
nesey for women to
seduce men to get what
they want “
"The Personal is
Political”
12. .
Second wave feminism of the
1960-80s looked at equality and
discrimination. The slogan, "The
person is political" shone a light
on political inequalities and
encouraged women to see how
their personal lives reflected
societal sexism.
SECOND WAVE FEMINISM
Feminist history is split up into
waves. First wave was in n19th
and early 20th century focused
on womens rights to vote.
Second wave in 1960-80s,
focused on womens liberation
and equal rights. The third wave
in 1990s was a continuation of
the second wave feminism.
From looking at emerging
and second wave
feminism, women fought
against gender norms and
how photography was
an important way of
showing this and breaking
boundaries.
13. The
Male
Gaze
Here I will look at the male gaze which has
often been used in TV and art which I will
analyse to get further understanding, as this
is another way of looking at how women
were seen through mens eyes.
14. THE MALE GAZE
In Art
Crying Girl-Roy Lichtenstein, 1963
Roy was a famous pop artist, influenced by
pop art. He used dark line, thick lines and a
limited colour palette. Used ben-day dots
which were used in printing comics.
The image depicts a women crying, she looks stressed and
vulnerable, and this symbolises women`s feeling of entrapment at
the time and their female identity having an inferior role in
society.
This image is filling the frame and
is an extreme close up. This piece
of art shows its texture and
sadness through the eyes.
In these artworks women
lose their subjectivity to
become objects in a
male dominated world.
Feminists have
argued that art
was the domain of
men.
15. This theory suggests women are
being denied human identity and are
seen more as objects and only
admired for their physical appearance.
The male gaze is often seen in movies
where the audience is put into the
perspective of a heterosexual man. A
scene may focus on a woman's body,
putting you in their eyes and how they
see women.
THE MALE GAZE
From the view-point of a man
This theory also suggests
women watch films in a
secondary perspective and
see themselves from a
man's perspective.
In films, often the female
has no real importance
except in the relation to a
male character. Whats
important is the way she
makes him feel or act.
Mulvey states that the role of a
female character is- as an erotic
object within the narrative or for
the spectators .
16. THE MALE GAZE
James Bond - when its ok to slap a
woman
Here Sean Connery is talking about his views on women.
“ Its better to do it with
an opened hand”
“ I don’t think its
that bad”
“ It depends on the
circumstances and
if it merits it”
“ “Women are pretty
good at this, they cant
leave it alone”
“ Then I think its
absolutely right”
17. THE MALE GAZE
TV Advertising
This advert depicts the women to be younger, with a childlike
nature, the way she is posed . Using direct eye contact and
acting almost vulnerable but seductive. Showing a position of
submissiveness and powerlessness.
Adverts like this were very common in
there way of portraying women
Women are urged to have beauty and sex
appeal which is often show through being
submissive.
Male gaze tells women how to behave and
find their identity in the approval of the male
gaze.
This representation creates an unhealthy
obsession amongst women regarding their
bodies.
Understanding the concept
of the male gaze in
advertising, film and art is
crucial in appreciating how
women saw themselves. If
all images are created for
man's viewpoint and
pleasure, women will not
be equal to men.
18. How To Be
A Good
Wife
Here I will go back in time to look at how
women were treated as wives in the
1950’s. This was because of the baby
boomers after WW2. This caused the
emerging progressive feminist movements
of the 1920s to be setback. Women wanted
to change how they were perceived and
why this led to the second wave feminism.
19. LIFE AS A 1950`S HOUSEWIFE
How To Be A Good Wife (1950s Style)
Putting the women in a submissive role, she
is only praised if she is a good wife
dehumanising her and being treated
unequally. Adverts mainly targeted at men.
The way he is holding her is as if he needs to
protect her reinforcing women were not.
Its very important for a wife to look good for
her husband and do everything to make sure
that his is happy as he is the most important
person in the family.
20. Family life was a very important goal after the second world war and having this
"perfect" life. But many women were not happy with this at the end of the 50`s and
made the catchphrase "there is something missing" and was supported by many
women.
Taking care of the house, cooking and looking after the kids wa sthe main
job as the ideal wife and this was their daily routine. But many women felt
inadequate, and this is when the fight for women’s rights began.
“There was no
savouring the
experience, there was
only surviving it…”
LIFE AS A 1950`S HOUSEWIFE
How To Be A Good Wife (1950s Style)
Images depicting the 1950’s
often show women in the
kitchen, cleaning or looking
after the kids as this connotes
to a good housewife and
shows how women should be.
21. A woman was seen as the
provider, the idea of a perfect
mother and wife doing
housework and responsibilty of
the children.
Men didn’t encourage their wives
to be independent.
LIFE AS A 1950`S HOUSEWIFE
How To Be A Good Wife (1950s Style)
This shows how men were seen as more dominant
and more imortant in the household. Symbolising
women as weaker and only for mens wellbeing in
the use.
"Your goal is to try to
make sure your home is
a place of peace,orde
and tranquility where
your husband can renew
himin body and spirit".
22. FEMININITY
IN
ADVERTISING
1920-50’s
Here I will look at how women were
depicted in advertising and the way
they targeted men. I will also analyse
and break down some adverts which
will help to gain a better understanding
of how they were portrayed.
23. FEMINITY IN ADVERTISING
The portrayal of women in 1950s All these ads feature a woman trying to sell
a house item as a housewife represents
someone in the household who should be
intersted in these things and want to buy
them to keep their family well look after and
cared for. We see this in adverts with their
husbnads as it shows they must provide for
them as a good wife cooking meals and
cleaning up.
Making these types of adverts
subject to the male gaze as we`re
seeing life through a man's eyes
and how he sees women and thier
role.
24. Erving Goffman Gender
Advertisements (1979)
FEMINITY IN ADVERTISING
The portrayal of women in 1950s
This advert depicts women as a bit clumsy
or careless, as she has burnt the meal she
needed to prepare perfectly for her
husband. Also that she needs support
from him for making a mistake, making her
seem not independent and needing
reassurance from a man.
This advert was aimed at men as they
could relate perhaps, and make fun of their
wives for messing up, showing they don’t
care for her feelings.
The way he is comforting her and
that she is crying over it shows her
as weak and submissive.
The composition uses
his hand to frame the
image leading our
eyes to the table.
Erving Goffman looks at how femininity
and masculinity is displayed within
Western media.
25. FEMINITY IN ADVERTISING
The portrayal of women in 1950s
This advert shows its male audience what a
perfect housewife should look like and how she
should act.
The fact she is dressed up nicely hair done,
makeup done looking very presentable will
appeal to the male audience.
The way she is stereotypically holding
ingredients for cooking, this could symbolise she
is going to the kitchen to cook her husband a
nice meal.
These ads often depicted what men wanted to
see, such as this idea of a good housewife.
26. This ad for Weyenberg Massagic shoes was featured in Playboy
magazine and reprinted in the "No Comment" section of Ms.
magazine in December 1974.
FEMINITY IN ADVERTISING
The portrayal of women in 1950s
Women in advertising were often put in a submissive
role here this woman is lying on the floor. This advert
symbolises that women are below menas
represented by a male shoe to symbolise he is the
boss, literally showing women are beneath men. It’s
a visual representation showing a woman's place in
men's eyes as this was their target audience, so still
has the women not wearing many clothes coming
back to the male gaze.
Ads in the 1970`s were very sexist but they were not
seen as wrong or offensive at the time, so they were
able to get away with them.
Her gaze is looking towards the
shoe showing her submission. She
is in the centre of the frame but in
the background showing she is
less important .
27. FEMININTY
IN
ADVERTISING
1970’s
ONWARDS
Here I will be looking at more later
adverts created but feminist artists
which contrast to adverts I have
previously looked at. These women are
looking to defy stereotypes that ads
from the 1950-70’s were showing.
28. Cindy Shermans work has
very close conections with
this very famous war poster
in the way its brightly
coloured and her pose and
serious facial expression.
This war poster connotes
to female empowerment
and the way its framed to
get her arm in to represent
her being physically strong
and the caption shows her
mental strength too.
FEMINITY IN ADVERTISING
Contrasting with war time depiction
The war saw a huge increase in female workers,
including factories such as the munitions
industry.
Women also worked as secretaries, typists and
even tram conductors.
Thousands of women worked on farms but also
still in traditional roles such as nursing. All these
women were great role models for getting
involved in the war effort.
Which is a complete contrast to this
1950`s ad where the woman is holding
washing detergent in her hand. The way
they are framed similarly just shows this
contrast and step forward.
29. Training their lenses on their
own bodies,
Marxism and Art: Beware of
Fascist Feminism 1977
Hannah Wilke is known for her
work on feminist photography
using her own body for her art
and mocking modelling
glamour.
FEMINITY IN ADVERTISING
DISMANTLING CONSTRUCTS OF WOMEN - Hannah Wilke
She worked on female
iconography based on
her body, creating these
abstract forms.
She contrasts the way women were
portrayed in advertisements like these.
Her work confronted
erotic stereotypes and
made ironic gestures and
poses.
Hannah Wilke has taken back the idea
of male gaze and has started controlling
this ideas herself.
30. Kruger is an American conceptual artist.
Informed by feminism was known for her
aggressive slogans, over black and white
images from magazines. Her visual
language influenced by the work as a
graphic designer. She addressed political
issues, employing media effects.
FEMINITY IN ADVERTISING
Subverting Adverts - Barbara Kruger
Her work connects to Hannah
Wilke`s as they both address
political issues and create
positive female iconography.
These women were important as they
turned adverts on their head and out a
positive spin on female identity.
From looking at and
breaking down femininity
in advertising it has helped
me understand the
depictions men had of
women and how they were
seen as this submissive
role. Then looking at the
contrast of more feminist
take on advertising shows
how far women have come
and how differently they
want to be seen.
31. Women weren’t only treated as
less important in the house but
this was also depicted on screen.
These shows targeted men as
they were showing women as just
this domestic role for men.
WOMEN
ON
SCREEN
32. ON TV - OZZIE AND HARRIET, 1952 -1966
These types of show idealised
domesticity and women do all
the work for their husbands.
WandaVision takes us back
in time to the 1950`s and this
idea of a housewife and
gives us a modern take on
what it was like.
ON TV - Father Knows Best (1954-1960)
WOMEN ON SCREEN
1950s Television
These shows depict women as just an accessory to
their husbands who are there to please and keep the
house well kept. They give women a feeling of
dependency on men. These shows were much more
aimed at men as they show them in a more dominant
an important role and they can relate to their own life.
33. MARTHA ROLSER
Semiotics of the Kitchen
1975
Rosler plays the role of a housewife and
creates a parody cooking programmes
from the 1960’s. Going through the
alphabet naming all things found in the
kitchen but with angry gestures and
movements to show the frustration of
oppressive roles women have.
WOMEN ON SCREEN
MARTHA ROLSER RESPONSE
Martha Rosler took the ideas of how
women were supposed to act and she
reversed the role of a good housewife
with her anger towards what she was
doing, where women were always meant
to be ladylike and gentle.
Here Rosler has hit back at how women were
depicted on screen and seen as just someone
who belonged in the kitchen. Again showing
this idea of why feminism came about as a
result of anger of women.
34. STEPFORD
WIVES
Here I will look at the famous novel
and film Stepford Wives. As this is a
great example of how women were
depicted as housewives and the idea
that they were robots.
35. "Stepford wife’ has
become code for some
robot following a script
and meeting some
male misogynistic
ideal of femininity”
Mary Stuart Masterson
36. CONNECTIONS
WOMEN ON SCREEN
STEPFORD WIVES RESONSE
The Stepford Wives was a book written by Iran
Levin on 1972. The story is about a photographer
and young mother, Joanna, who thinks the
housewives living in her new neighbourhood are
all robots creates by their husbands.
Desperate housewives is a
modern version of the stepford
housewives as it follows a
group of women as seen
through their friends.
Joanna believes that the
women are being brainwashed
or poisoned into submission.
She feels they are all mindless,
docile and lacking free will.
This connects to how women
of the 1950’s acted and is
depicting this, but Joanna like
us in the modern day seen its
not right.
37. “A Stepford wife
epitomizes somebody
who is perfectly made
up, looks perfect,
and presents a very
perfect facade.”
Nanette Newman
(Actor in the lead
role)
WOMEN ON SCREEN
STEPFORD WIVES RESONSE
The idea of white picket fence America where
everything looks perfect on the surface and have
to keep up these perfect appearances, which
links to the idea of a Stepford wife.
As a modern day audience
watching this film it almost
shows how women were used
like these perfect robots.
Women were treated as
housewives and depicted
in Stepford Wives as
subservient robots. This
has given me a greater
insight as to why feminism
emerged and why women
wanted to subvert this
negative image and create
a new identity.
38. CINDY
SHERMAN
Cindy Sherman's exploration of
identity through the multiple
guises sort you promote feminism.
Her iconic Untitled Film series were
influential to many in today's world.
39. Sherman is an American self-portrait
photographer, who has mastered the work of
socially critical photography. Known for her
famous guises depicting her self many in different
contexts from movies to imagined characters.
and her work on observing societal sexual
stereotypes.
WOMEN ON SCREEN
Introduction to Cindy Sheman
Cindy Shermans work links back
to early seeds of feminism in
the way she dresses up and
changes the way we see how
women dress and act. Showing
women can wear suits aswell as
men. I think this early take on
feminism was an influcncing
factoron Shermans work.
She uses a lot of direct eye
contact with her audience and
has very exaggerated poses.
She embodies each character
she disguises herself in . Her
compositions always have her
in a formal pose either sitting
down or standing.
"Under this mask, another mask, I
will never be finished removing all
these faces"
Claude Cahun
Connections with early feminist icons
40. Eleanor Antin
'Carving: A Traditional
Sculpture' (detail)
1972
This is a piece of conceptual art and it’s
the idea of a traditional sculpture and using
herself as the model. Greek sculptures
usually look at depicting the ideal body.
She uses her own body and describes it as
" standard poor man material".
Cindy Sherman’s Bus
Riders,1976
Bus riders depicts the people
Sherman would see on the bus or
waiting for the bus in her daily life,
taking on their personalities and
body language to create a series of
images all different from each other.
WOMEN ON SCREEN
Cindy Sherman Comparison with Eleanor Antin
Both women are using their bodies to train
their camera. By doing this they are taking
control of the male gaze in deciding what
their audience look at.
These series of images create a
repeated pattern and both use 3D
elements of their own bodies,
having them in black and white give
the images a greater contrast.
41. The camera is looking upwards at her
this creates a striking angle getting
the background of buildings in too.
This is quiet a cinematic shot.
Untitled film still #21 1978
WOMEN ON SCREEN
Cindy Sherman Untitled Film Stills
This famous image shows
her playing a stereotypical
female film
character influenced by the
1950’s and 60’s.
She intentionally looks away
from the camera out of the
frame, this gives the image
more mystery and leaves
you with questions about
her.
She is posed as a female
character from a film. Her outfit
is very formal and her
facial expression is serious.
Black and white, mimicking
the Hollywood film .
She takes great thought in
composing her photos for a great
shot down to the clothes, lighting,
look and angles.
The lighting in her images is
very stark which creates that
mysterious movie feel to
them.
42. Her "Untitled film" stills are 70
black and white images made
tthroughout 3 years , where
Sherman posed as different
guises of generic female film
characters such as working girls
and lonely housewife.
"The still must tease with the
promise of a story the viewer of it
itches to be told".
Cindy Sherman
WOMEN ON SCREEN
Cindy Sherman Untitled Film Stills
These images show
voyeurism, theatricality,
mystery and vulnerability.
Which is what Cindy
Sherman wanted to depict
in these film stills.
Her poses and facial
expressions create this
visual language and the
story behind her images.
Cindy Sherman and Lea Miller
are similar as they are both
feminist photographers who use
their own bodies in their
photos.
You can see how Sherman was
emulating artists like this.
She uses natural light and
her compositions always
have her places in front of
a background which helps
tell the story.
In some ways you could say
Cindy Sherman has taken
control of the male gaze by
creating these self-portraits.
Cindy Sherman was in
hitting back at the
stereotypical image of
women and by
using, owning, her own
body to create powerful
images of female gender
identity.
43. Miles Aldridge
Home Works
In my conclusion I will look at how Miles
Aldridge reflected on second wave feminists
work and was able to subvert the depictions
of a submissive housewife.
44. “I want to set a sort of
unsettling message, but
my trick is to sugar-
coat it in these bright
colours”
Miles Aldridge
45. Miles Aldridge is a British fashion photographer. His work
has been seen in fashion magazines in across the world.
In Aldrige's cinematic images of women we see a world
filled with saturated in garish colours and erotically
charged imagery. The aesthetic resembles pop art,
psychedelia and films by David Lynch.
Home Works is an obvious throwback to the1950s
American housewife.
To understand the context of Aldriges work I will look at
1950's America and the role/perception of women
These images depict this
housewife character and has made
them look like robots the way they
are posed look almost not human,
and this reflects how women felt
they were treated.
Miles Aldridge Homeworks
Introduction
46. Miles Aldridge Homeworks
Women on Screen - Comparisons with Cindy Sherman
Links in with how
housewives were portrayed
on tv.
Miles Alrdridges work links back with
Cindy Sherman as she was fighting back
against the depictions of women bit in a
more subtle way. Now Alrdidge has
pushed his work even further showing
these women in a more aggressive way
contrasting to how they were ways
perceived as submissive
He uses harsh high key
lighting, with fluorescent
colours to create contrast wi
th the mood of the subject.
This juxtaposition adds to
the surreal quality of the
image
The shot is composed with
the camera at a higher level,
so the model is looking up,
submissive. Use of props
taken in the kitchen
to signify she is a housewife,
however the knife in her
hand looks like a weapon.
This image
shows Aldridges dark
humour and confronting the
idea on the role of a
housewife, creating this
almost angry image of
this women in the kitchen
where society says she
should be happiest.
His work also depicts
these women as robots the
way they are posed and the
lighting he uses. This is
reminiscent of the Stepford
Wives
47. Miles Alridge’s work connects with the
Stepford Wives as his photography
looks at the image of a housewife and
the representation of them being
almost robotic, which links to how
women were depicted on screen.
Miles Aldridge Homeworks
Women on Screen - Comparisons with Stepford Wives
This image from Stepford wives shows all
these women looking the same with this
perfect looking exterior. The image of
being robotic and not having free will or a
personality as they don’t need one as
their purpose is to look after the house.
His work has a great use of bold
colour and high key lighting, which
creates these striking images.
These woman are often the central
focus with stereotypical
backgrounds such as a kitchen.
48. Miles Aldridge Homeworks
Femineity in Advertising - Subversive Advertising
These adverts show a contrast from
the sexist housewife ads to more
feminist campaigns.
This poster is aimed at
women to try and get them
motivated and get involved in
the war effort and not
conform to being stuck at
home like men think they
should.
This advert is aimed at men,
showing a more sexist advert
depicting the perfect
housewife. Holding
stereotypical items used for
cooking, and the wife
thanking her husband for
providing her with these
things to then look after him.
49. SUMMARIES
Feminism has allowed me to understand more about how these women fought
against gender norms and how photography broke boundaries.
The male gaze helped me understand how men saw women through art and
media and a man`s point of view was more important.
How women were treated as housewives and depicted on screen
gave me a greater insight as to why feminism emerged and how
women were not seen as equal.
Cindy Sherman showed me how important her work was in
hitting back at the stereotypical image of women in the 1950’s.
Femininity in advertising helped me understand the depictions men
had of women. Then looking at the contrast of more feminist take
on advertising shows such a contrast.
Miles Aldridge has been able to subvert the idea of a housewife into
something more aggressive and robot like.
50. MY OPINION ON THESE ARTISTS WORK
Cindy Sherman and Miles Aldridge’s work were both
turning depictions of women in the 1950’s on its head.
I think their work really helps challenge the stereotype role
women were given.
The way Aldridge has reflected on feminist work
and has subverted the role of a housewife to be
something more aggressive is and effective way
of fighting gender norm.
This relates to my portfolio as looking at how this
important period of time for women and how they felt.
It relates to an important time now during covid and
how photography can help depict feelings of people
today.
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I think by going through all these stages and aspects of this
era it has given me a deeper understanding into how female
identity has changed and how photographers have helped
pioneer this.