From http://www.pbspettravel.co.uk - Guinea pig care tips and advice, including housing, feeding, handling and breeding guinea pigs.

1. Guinea Pig Care Guide
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2. Guinea Pig Cages: The Beginners Guide
Guinea pigs are one of the most endearing small pets. They seldom bite, they rarely
get ill and they are both clean and quiet. Indeed, normally the only sound you will
hear from your pet is a wonderful “churring” or squeaking when he or she realizes
that food is on its way.
However despite the popularity of guinea pigs as pets, many owners
misunderstand the needs of their pets when it comes to housing. The purpose of
this article is provide some common-sense guidance on guinea pig cages to help
you keep your pet safe and secure.
The Purposes of Guinea Pig Cages
Before we start to investigate the types of guinea pig cages available it is important
to stop and think for a moment about what we are hoping to achieve. By better
understanding the needs of your guinea pig you will be in a better position to
provide the perfect home for your squeaking pet.
In this respect there are four main factors that need to be considered:
Security
Guinea pigs are relatively shy animals. They are easily startled and may run around
madly when surprised or scared. The first consideration in terms of your guinea pig
cage should therefore be towards offering this much-needed security.
The easiest way to accomplish this and help make your guinea pigs feel safe and
secure is to offer “visible barriers” – quite simply places where your guinea pig can
hide away from view. This means that either your guinea pig cage should offer
enclosed corners where they can hide, or you should include items such as piles of
hay or wooden houses in which he or she can hide if scared.
Enclosure
Next up, of course, your guinea pig cage should prevent your pets from escaping.
Whilst guinea pigs very rarely jump it is wise to fully enclose your pet. This means
that cages with sealed lids are generally preferable to open cages.
Protection
Your guinea pig cage also needs to protect your pet from outside interference,
especially predators like foxes if kept outdoors. Once again this means that a solid
cage which will not allow people or animals access to your juicy guinea pigs are
advisable.

3. Comfort
Lastly of course your guinea pig cage needs to offer a high level of comfort. This
means that your pet is able to avoid the worst of the weather, to stay dry and to
move about in a reasonable space.
Guineas Pig Cage Dimensions
In terms of space, the next question is really how big a guinea pig cage should
really be. Here, fortunately, we have some conclusive answers.
The RSPCA recommends a minimum cage size of 120cm by 60cm by 45cm for a
pair of guinea pigs. Remember that guinea pigs are sociable animals so keeping
more than one can be beneficial.
While this sounds like a lot of space for two tiny guinea pigs it is worth
remembering that guinea pigs can be quite active pets. If such a space is not
possible, consider getting the largest cage you can possibly accommodate, and
supplement this with regular exercise, such as in a separate run.
Types of Guinea Pig Cages
There are three main types of guinea pig cages for sale in pet shops or online.
Broadly speaking these are categorized as outdoor guinea pig cages, indoor guinea
pig cages and guinea pig runs. Each has their own unique strengths and
weaknesses so when shopping for a guinea pig cage try taking into account the
above points. In doing so you can feel certain that your guinea pig is housed
properly.
Guinea Pig Hutches / Outdoor Guinea Pig Cages
The most common form of housing are guinea pig hutches. These are large wooden
boxes with mesh over part of the front. This mesh then allows sunshine and fresh
air to enter the cage, creating a more natural environment.
Outdoor guinea pig cages however do have their critics. For one, it is important that
your pet can stay warm and dry in winter, which can be difficult with an open-
fronted cage. For safety, therefore, try to ensure that your pet has a secure bedding
area packed with fresh straw so it can get out of the worst of the weather.
In addition to this it can be wise in the worst weather to lightly cover the mesh –
using something breathable like a bit of old sacking – to keep out the worst of the
rain. Even better, consider moving your guinea pig hutch indoors over winter,
bringing it back out into the garden in the nicer months.

4. Indoor Guinea Pig Cages
Gaining in popularity over the last few years are indoor guinea pig cages. These
typically consist of a solid plastic bottom, with a clip-on cage area on top. The
plastic base helps to make your pet feel secure, while keeping in mess from wood
flakes, excess food and so on. They look, in short, like an oversized hamster cage.
The open cage top allows in light and fresh air, and also facilitates an excellent
view. That said, in a guinea pig cage with a completely open top it can be easy to
startle your pet, especially when you will typically looking down at it.
In such cases it can be smart to cover up one end of the cage, thus offering extra
privacy for your pet. If possible, also consider raising the cage up off the floor. In
this way your pet will avoid drafts, be less startled by passers-by and will be just as
easy to see.
Guinea Pig Runs
The final options in terms of guinea pig cages are the many runs that are available.
These typically provide more overall space than the average guinea pig cage, which
can be good for your pet’s health, as well as allowing for more extensive exercise.
Note that the open-topped runs are really only safe for indoor use. If you want to
allow your pet to run around outside you will want a fully-sealed unit to protect it
from cats and foxes. In addition, guinea pigs allowed to make use of an outdoor run
should be properly shaded to prevent overheating in summer.
Putting your guinea pigs into a run can be a great idea and add lots of
environmental interest. It can also be great for your lawn, assuming no chemical
weed killers have been used on it recently.

5. What Do Guinea Pigs Eat?
There are a huge range of different guinea pig foods for sale, and much conflicting
advice on discussion forums about how best to feed your guinea pig.
For anyone wondering what guinea pigs eat, what follows is a complete
introduction to the guide. Simply follow these steps and you’ll be well on your way
to a happy and healthy guinea pig…
What do Guinea Pigs Eat?
Guinea pigs are herbivorous animals – that is to say that they feed almost
exclusively on plant material.
Unlike some other rodents – such as hamsters and gerbils – they are unlikely to
enjoy or even eat insects like locusts and crickets.
In terms of what the feed guinea pigs there are a number of food groups that you
should be able to check off your list…
Fresh Water
Guinea pigs can drink a surprising amount, so should have fresh water available at
all times. This is generally best provided in a drinking bottle, which helps to keep
the water clean and fresh. Water made available on a bowl is usually soon made
dirty and so is less hygienic.
It is good practise to empty your guinea pig’s water bottle every day and refill it with
clean water, rather than only changing the bottle when the water runs out. There are
two reasons for this. Firstly, water that has been left to sit for some days –
especially in warm and sunny weather – is likely to be less fresh and healthy than
water straight from the tap.
Secondly, a guinea pig that suddenly starts to drink considerably more or less than
usual can be an indication of health problems. If you get into the habit of
replenishing the water daily you’ll be better placed to see if your pet’s water
consumption suddenly changes. Under such circumstances it is wise to consult a
veterinarian for professional advice.
Hay
In the wild, guinea pigs feed extensively on wild plants, in particular a range of
grasses. Hay is essentially dried grass, which is both delicious to your pet and also
provides a useful source of fibre.

6. Hay that is left on the floor of the cage cat get soiled, so it is better to invest in a
hay rack which keeps the hay off the floor. Your guinea pig then drag out the
amount that it wants, keeping the remainder fresh and nutritious.
Guinea Pig Mix
The third aspect of a balanced and healthy diet is one of the many commercially-
available guinea pig mixes. These typically come in the form of a “muesli” type or a
pelleted variety.
The muesli-type guinea pig foods look appealing to our human eyes, being as they
are filled with an assortment of different seeds, flakes and dried vegetables.
However sadly guinea pigs have an unfortunate habit of sorting carefully through
the food, picking out only those bits which they enjoy most.
For this reason it is generally a better idea to feed a food that consists of uniform
pellets or kibbles, in order to ensure that your pet benefits from all the nutrients
required.
Your aim should be to ensure that your guinea pigs bowl is never fully empty; like
water, your guinea pig should have access to their pellets at all times.
Vitamin C
Guinea pigs are one of the few animals which (like humans) cannot create their
own vitamin C. Without suitable levels of vitamin C guinea pigs can suffer from
scurvy; which is neither pleasant for the owner nor animal.
In order to avoid this situation it is critical to provide your guinea pig with as much
variety in their diet as possible.
Some authorities suggest supplementing the diet with additional vitamin C. This is
most easily achieved by purchasing a water-soluble vitamin C supplement from a
pet shop which can then be added to your guinea pig’s water bottle.
Vegetables
The provision of vegetables should be considered a critical and integral part of
feeding guinea pigs, as opposed to an occasional treat.
A range of vegetables may be fed including celery, carrots, bell peppers, broccoli
and cabbage.

7. Fruits
Guinea pigs generally love fruits, but due to the fact that they are high in sugar they
should only be fed in moderation. Ideally, fruits should be seen as an occasional
treat, rather than a stable part of your pet’s everyday diet.
Examples of suitable fruits include apple, pear, melon and strawberries.
Wild Plants
It should come as no surprise that a range of wild and garden plants can be safely
fed to your guinea pigs. Of these, fresh grass is arguably the most enjoyed of all. If
feeding grass to your guinea pigs you should avoid feeding clippings from your
mower – which can taint the grass – and instead tug handfuls out manually.
Other wild plants which may be safely fed include chickweed and dandelion leaves
(a perennial favourite).
Treats
A range of guinea pig treats are available in pet shops, and may be fed in
moderation. These should, however, never become part of the regular diet, lest
nutritional deficiencies arise. A handy and greatly-enjoyed treat among guinea pigs
is a piece of wholemeal or granary toast – especially on a cold day.
What Foods Can’t You Feed To Guinea Pigs?
While the above guinea pig food list should provide you with an extensive list of
guinea pig foods to get started with, it is also important to appreciate that there are
many foods which are toxic to guinea pigs and should never be fed.
The following foods should never be fed to your guinea pigs:
 Rhubarb
 Onions
 Potato
 Tomato leaves
 Flower bulbs
Disagreement exists regarding citrus fruits, with some authorities recommending
you steer clear of them, while others feel they offer beneficial vitamin C. In in doubt,
we would encourage you to avoid feeding them, and instead to rely on a dietary
vitamin C supplement if necessary.

8. Treats for Guinea Pigs
We are a nation of pet keepers, and love nothing more than bringing joy to the lives
of our animals. Unsurprisingly, with their stocky rounded bodies and cute faces,
guinea pigs are no exception. The real question becomes what can you use as
treats for guinea pigs?
Some General Rules
Before we talk about some specific treats for guinea pigs it’s important that we
establish some basic rules. Guinea pigs tend to have quite sensitive stomachs, and
there are many foods that are either unhealthy for them, or will make them ill. This
is especially so for any new foods that they aren’t familiar with.
The first rule of treating your guinea pig is therefore to only feed very small
amounts of treats. The second rule is to be absolutely certain that you know what
your guinea pig is, and is not, allowed to eat.
In the past, for example, it was considered nice to offer guinea pigs a nice warm
piece of wholemeal or granary toast. These days, however, the RSPCA recommends
against this. It suggests that your guinea pig’s natural cousin – the cavy – very
rarely has access to grains, root vegetables or fruit, so these should only be fed in
tiny doses – if at all.
Lastly, remember that while guinea pigs naturally have quite a stocky appearance,
they can be prone to weight gain. An obese guinea pig is not a healthy guinea pig.
Once again, therefore, treats should only be used in moderation. Sugary treats are
best avoided for this same reason.
Wild Plants as Treats
Treats, by their very nature, tend to be something a little bit “different” and special.
As it turns out, there are several wild plants that guinea pigs seem to go wild for,
and are only acceptable at certain times of the year.
Two of the best are chickweed and dandelion leaves – both of which are hoovered
up at a speed you wouldn’t believe!
Vegetables as Treats
Guinea pigs love a huge range of different vegetables. Cut into small pieces they
can make a perfect treat, or why not make your own fresh “guinea pig salad” for
them to enjoy? Some examples of popular treats for guinea pigs include:

9.  Beetroot
 Bell Peppers
 Broccoli
 Brussel Sprouts
 Carrot
 Celery
 Corn on the Cob
 Kale
 Tomato
 Watercress
Fruit as Treats
Remembering that fruit should only be fed as a treat very occasionally, items such
as raisins, seedless grapes or slices of apple and pear can make a very special treat
for your pet.
Other Treats for Guinea Pigs
A number of commercial treats are available for guinea pigs, and can be bought
from most good pet shops. Lastly, if you happen to have any fruit trees in your
garden then providing a branch from an apple or pear tree can be a much-relished
treat, as well as helping to keep your guinea pig’s teeth under control.

10. A Guide to Guinea Pig Teeth
Although it may only look like your guinea pig has two upper and two lower incisors,
they actually have twenty teeth. Inside their tiny mouths, along with the incisors,
are a pair of upper and lower premolars and three pairs of upper and lower molars.
Interestingly, guinea pigs do not have canines. Instead, they have a gap called the
diastema. This is simply the name given for a gap between two teeth, many
humans have it and it is completely normal in all mammals.
Your guinea pig’s teeth are open rooted and grow continuously. To combat this, a
correct diet is imperative. This will allow your guinea pig to gnaw and chew to keep
their teeth at the appropriate length.
Guinea pigs have sharp front teeth, so it is best not to let them nibble anything and
everything. The enamel of the teeth is white, like ours. Many people do not realise
guinea pigs have molars due to fat pads in their cheeks making them invisible.
Many vets use buccal pad separators; these are designed to gently hold open the
guinea pig’s mouth to aid examination.
Ensuring your guinea pig has healthy teeth is a must for their overall wellbeing.
Therefore, it is essential to get to know all about your guinea pig, and this includes
oral care. The guide below will take you through all you need to know to keep your
guinea pig’s teeth healthy.
Checking Your Guinea Pig Has Healthy Teeth
Although not obvious to the untrained eye, your guinea pig has very long incisors.
The top and bottom incisors can grow up to 1.5 centimetres long. Do not be
alarmed if you catch a glimpse of these pearly whites in all their glory, it is
completely normal. If your guinea pig is eating normally and is showing no signs of
distress, this shows that your guinea pig’s teeth are naturally being worn down with
their food, which is exactly what should be happening. Both top and bottom
incisors should match up in length and show no signs of deterioration.
Guinea Pig Molars
Your guinea pigs back teeth are also known as cheek teeth. Understandably they
are a lot harder to examine. They sit far back in your guinea pigs mouth, which is
often full of food, making checking difficult. When it comes to your guinea pig’s
molars, it is best to let the vet handle any examination unless something is glaringly
obvious. Vets have special tools and will be able to rinse out your guinea pigs
mouth to get a better picture of their oral health.

11. Breaking Teeth
Sometimes your guinea pig may chew too hard on their cage and manage to break
a tooth. Therefore, it is best to check your guinea pig’s teeth regularly, just in case
they have had a mishap. If you find they are broken or damaged in any way, your
guinea will need to have their teeth trimmed or filed so that they are even again.
Any sharp or serrated edges can puncture and damage the inside of your guinea
pigs mouth.
My Guinea Pig Isn’t Eating
If your guinea pig’s appetite changes, it is most likely due to dental problems.
Guinea pigs can get a condition known as ‘anorexia’. Unlike humans, this refers to a
loss of appetite. Sometimes, guinea pigs can stop eating altogether due to dental
issues. This can often spiral into other health problems and your guinea pig can get
very ill.
If you notice that your guinea pig isn’t eating their food, or have stopped eating
altogether, you must make an appointment with you vet immediately.
How to Wear Down a Guinea Pig’s Teeth
More often than not, diet is the main reason as to why your guinea pig’s teeth aren’t
as healthy as they should be. Guinea pigs need a low calorie, high fibre diet and
should be fed high quality hay and lots of fresh grass every day. The right food can
help keep dental problems at bay.
Compressed pellet foods specifically designed for guinea pigs are a great
accompaniment to hay and grass, and will help keep teeth worn down. Having
something to gnaw on besides food will also be useful. Tree branches that haven’t
been touched with pesticides or chemicals are a great natural choice for guinea
pigs. Hardwoods such as apple, hickory, maple or oak are ideal and will have your
guinea pig nibbling for hours.
Your guinea pig may also benefit from a salt lick or mineral block. Not only do they
contain essential vitamins and minerals, guinea pigs will also gnaw on this block
which will help grind down their teeth. However, it is best to seek advice from your
vet when selecting a mineral block for guinea pig use.
Common Guinea Pig Dental Problems
No matter how much you try to keep your guinea pig’s teeth healthy, sometimes
Mother Nature has her own plans and your guinea pig can fall foul of one of the

12. three nasties below. Always keep an eye on your guinea pig’s teeth and, if worried,
pay a visit to the vets.
Elongated Roots
Like rabbits, guinea pig’s teeth are open rooted and continuously growing.
Sometimes, the roots of your guinea pig’s teeth can get pushed up or start growing
into the jaw. This results in elongated roots and an oral examination will not
indicate that this is happening. However, in the bottom teeth, sometimes bumps
can be felt along the lower jawline.
If you notice your guinea pig’s eyes tearing or bulging, this can be an indication that
the roots of the top teeth are growing incorrectly.
Any guinea pig with dental issues will be given an x-ray. This can give an extremely
clear picture of your guinea pig’s teeth and if they are suffering from elongated
roots. For guinea pigs who are in the early staged of the condition a chin sling may
be used. A chin sling is a piece of material that will be attached around your guinea
pigs jaw with small Velcro straps.
Malocclusion
Maloccluded teeth are teeth that have not worn properly and are overgrown. It may
only appear that the front teeth are being affected but, more often than not, it
occurs in the both the front and back teeth at the same time.
As the issue worsens, the ability to chew will deteriorate and the front teeth will not
receive their normal level of wear which keeps them healthy. In most guinea pigs
the bottom molars grow towards the tongue, whereas the top molars grow
outwards towards the cheeks. Maloccluded teeth can cause sores, injuries, and
infections in your guinea pigs mouth. Furthermore, the overgrown teeth will prevent
chewing and eating of food, often resulting in guinea pig weight loss.
Malocclusion in your guinea pig can often be identified by the following symptoms:
 Your guinea pig picking at food or not eating at all (anorexia)
 The mouth of your guinea pig constantly hanging slightly open
 Weight loss
 Wet hair under the chin and around the mouth
 Discharge from your guinea pig’s eyes or nose
 Chewing on one side of the mouth
 Small pieces of food dropping out your guinea pig’s mouth
 Picking up food and dropping it
You vet will take an x-ray of your guinea pig’s mouth, although maloccluded teeth
will be obvious. Maloccluded molars will be ground and filed, usually under
anaesthetic. The front teeth will be filed. Often, if malocclusion is advanced, your

13. guinea pig may need veterinary dental work every few weeks until the problem is
eradicated.
Broken Teeth and Tooth Loss
Guinea pigs can be vulnerable to broken teeth, particularly if their diet is inadequate
and lacking Vitamin C. Vitamin C is essential for bone and tooth growth. Broken
teeth, or the loss of teeth entirely, can also be due to injuries or accidents.
With healthy guinea pigs, any damaged or lost tooth will grow back absolutely fine.
However, monitor your guinea pig to check that the remaining teeth do not get too
long and start causing damage to the gums or lining of the mouth.
If a tooth has been broken close to the root or there is a bloody hole where a tooth
used to be, flush out any food with a small syringe. A teaspoon of salt in a pint of
warm water will do the trick. It is important to keep the hole clean to prevent
infection.
If your guinea pigs broken tooth is sharp or ragged, it is best to see your vet.
Furthermore, if the opposing teeth begin growing inwards and contacting the
mouth, book an appointment as soon as possible to save your guinea pig any
further damage.
Guinea Pig Teeth Summary
Your guinea pig has open rooted teeth and, as mentioned above, they will
continuously grow. If a tooth is broken or lost, your guinea pigs teeth will fall out of
line. This can cause issues as the remaining teeth will not be wearing down
properly. Overcrowding and overgrown teeth can become very painful problems for
your guinea pig and can cause sores and infections. This can lead to weight loss as
they struggle to ingest food.
If your guinea pig has healthy teeth, this is an indication that their diet is
appropriate and they are getting all the nutrients they need from their food.
Checking your guinea pig’s teeth on a weekly basis is ideal. The more you do it, the
more used to it your guinea pig will get. Having a strong bond and a guinea pig who
is not averse to being handled will help you catch any dental problems in the future.

14. How to Handle Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are one of the most popular small pets, loved by children and adults
alike. With their stocky bodies, and willingness to vocalise at feeding time they
project an image of cuteness. That is, of course, until you try to handle them…
Guinea pigs can be surprisingly fleet-footed when you’re trying to catch them, and
frustratingly fidgety when they are being held. More than a few owners have
virtually given up trying to handle their pet as a result, but this is a shame. What
follows are some proven tips to make handling your guinea pig safer and more
enjoyable for everyone (including your pet)…
Getting Your Guinea Pig Used to Handling
Guinea pigs are natural prey animals, so it makes sense that they are easily-
spooked. In their native Peru, a guinea pig that takes flight sooner rather than later
is likely to be the guinea pig that survives. In captivity, however, this same attitude
can make catching your guinea pig a regular frustration.
The first key to getting your guinea pig used to handling is patience. Not only will it
take time for your pet to feel safe around people, but any sudden movements on
your part can rapidly undo all your hard work.
Before you even try to lift your guinea pig up, therefore, it is wise to spend quality
time with your pet. Start off just sitting near the cage, talking in a calming voice to
your pet. Let them get used to having you around, so that they learn you are no
threat. This needs to be a regular, repeated process. Spend just a few minutes with
your guinea pig at first, slowly increasing the period of time you spend together
over some weeks.
Once you can gently approach the cage without spooking your guinea pig, and they
feel confident enough to walk around the cage in your presence, rather than
trembling in their house, the next step is to try gently feeding your pet through the
bars. Move slowly and deliberately, offering a favourite tidbit.
Don’t expect much interest at first; it can take several attempts and plenty of time
before your guinea pig approaches. Longer still until they happily tuck into your
offering without worry.
Once this has been achieved the next stage involves opening the cage door, and
following the same method of gentle talk, treats and slow movement. Everything
should be designed to keep your guinea pig as calm as is possible. Only under such
conditions will your pet grow in confidence.

15. Once you can approach and open the cage, then reach in, and have your pet eat
from your fingers you can gently try to initiate contact. Just a gentle stroke on their
side to begin with. Then longer strokes. Eventually you should be able to reach
around your pet and gently lift them out of the cage.
General Guinea Pig Handling Rules
For such a flighty animal the process of being able to gently lift up your guinea pig
rather than endlessly chasing them around the cage can take weeks or even longer.
Be patient and gentle and it will happen in the end. However once this point has
been reached things get far more enjoyable. You can lift your pet out of the cage
and enjoy “hands-on” time with him or her.
Before we discuss the process of lifting and handling your guinea pig, however, it
does perhaps pay to consider some general advice on handling guinea pigs. First
and foremost, aim to get your guinea pig used to anything new in very small chunks
of time. The first time you pick up your guinea pig, for example, it will feel very alien
to your pet. Hold them for just a few seconds, then place them back into the cage.
This time can be slowly increased over the weeks until a reasonable handling
period has been reached.
Secondly, always consider the health of your guinea pig. Smaller children, for
example, should be carefully monitored at all times to ensure the guinea pig is not
under any distress, and that the correct routine is being maintained.
Even adults, however, should take care. As guinea pigs are easily spooked, they
may try to leap from your arms at any time if surprised. A guinea pig falling from a
height may not end well. It therefore makes sense to (a) remain continually vigilant
when handling your pet to reduce the risk of a “leap of faith”, and (b) to hold your
pet close to a soft surface. In this way, should your guinea pig jump, it will have less
distance to fall, and a softer surface to land on.
Note that baby guinea pigs seem to be particularly suicidal and will leap almost
without warning. Fortunately, as guinea pigs age they tend to calm down a little,
making handling easier. This does mean, however, that larger guinea pigs can make
better pets for children as they are less prone to sudden escape attempts.
How to Lift Up Your Guinea Pig
It is very important to lift your guinea pig up correctly. Doing so reduces the
chances of your pet getting hurt, either because they are squeezed too tightly, or
have the ability to jump out of your hands.

16. Guinea pigs should ideally have their entire body supported when being lifted (to
avoid pressure on the spine), and should be gently but firmly restrained with both
hands. Slipping one hand underneath the guinea pig, to support the whole body,
while using the other ontop of the rodent to keep it restrained tends to work well.
How to Hold a Guinea Pig
Holding a guinea pig safely is rather similar to the lifting process; thought should be
given to both support and restraint. It is important to remain in control at all times
to prevent jumping. Guinea pigs are less athletic than many smaller pet rodents like
rats or gerbils, so allowing them to climb onto your shoulder etc. is generally best
avoided. All too often a guinea pig will fall after such an ambitious climb.
Guinea pigs are normally best held when resting on one of your fore-arms. Many
guinea pigs seem to feel safe when resting in the crook of your elbow, on your
folded arm. The other hand can then be used to gently stroke the guinea pig or, if
necessary, to restrain it. Aim to jeep calm at all times and talk gently to your pet. If
you have followed the guidance above then your pet should be used to your voice,
and should associate it with calmness and safety.

17. How to Breed Guinea Pigs
There is little cuter than a baby guinea pig. Unlike most mammals they’re born fully-
furred, with their eyes open and able to run around within moments of birth. They’re
also quite a bit larger than you might expect, being comparable to a small hamster.
Little wonder, then, that so many people want to breed guinea pigs.
However, breeding guinea pigs is not an activity which should be approached
lightly. Not only must you satisfy yourself that you have suitable homes for any
guinea pigs, but you also need to understand that there are serious health risks for
pregnant guinea pigs.
Generally speaking, experts recommend that guinea pigs should only be bred by
professionals following a very strict system to minimise the risk to mother and
pups.
The Suitable Pair
Female guinea pigs reach sexual maturity at a surprisingly young age. It is not
unusual for them to be capable of reproducing from as little as 4-8 weeks of age.
This means that great care should be taken to separate out young guinea pigs in
order to prevent unwanted pregnancies.
If you do decide to breed guinea pigs then it’s critical that you select a female of a
certain age. She should not be too young (most authorities recommend a minimum
age of 3 months) but she also mustn’t be too old.
An odd quirk of guinea pig biology is that the ligaments joining together the pelvic
bones can harden with age. This can make birthing difficult. In older females a
Caeasarean may be required. Even then, there are considerable risks, and it is not
uncommon for mother or young to die as a result.
Ideally, if a female is to be used as a sire then she should be bred before she is six
months of age, which will help to set her hips and make future births rather less
fraught.
Males may be of almost any age, though older males tend to lose vigour.
Introducing the Pair
Guinea pigs are typically quite docile and sociable creatures. While adult males
(boars) will fight, females and pairs rarely do so.

18. The best method of introduction is to place the male into the female’s cage. This
reduces stress on the female. The pair can then be left together until you’re
confident that the female is carrying young.
How Do I Know If My Guinea Pig is Pregnant?
The most obvious sign of pregnancy in guinea pigs is that their food intake
increases dramatically, while they very visibly put on weight. Handled gently, you
may even be able to feel the babies in her belly.
To be certain, a vet can examine your guinea pig, where they will be able to tell you
how many babies you can expect, and to check the family for health.
Gestation in Guinea Pigs
Gestation periods in guinea pigs can vary widely. The average gestation period is
roughly two months – with 60-70 days being typical. Be aware that the longer the
gestation period, the more chance there is of a miscarriage, so long gestation
periods can be a bad omen.
During this time the mother will need additional care. It is wise to handle your
guinea pig as little as possible. This reduces stress, and prevents the chance of a
baby being accidentally injured.
Additionally, offer your female plenty of food and water, with a particular emphasis
on calcium-rich foods like watercress.
As you get closer to the date of birth it can be wise to remove the male entirely.
While it is sad to leave her on her own, most guinea pig mothers birth best alone. In
addition, the mother can fall pregnant again within hours of birth. As pregnancy is
so physically draining it is best to remove the male, thus preventing a second
pregnancy soon afterwards.
Giving Birth
Guinea pigs have quite small litters. An average number of piglets is between one
and four, though larger litters are sometimes experienced.
The young are astonishingly precocious, and may be seen trying adult food within
days. Most baby guinea pigs are fully weaned between 14 and 28 days. At this point
the sexes should be separated to prevent any unwanted pregnancies.

19. Common Guinea Pig Illnesses
Guinea pigs are typically very healthy animals when kept properly. Indeed, as you’ll
see, many of the more common guinea pig diseases are easily avoided with the
right husbandry.
That said, there are a number of ailments which guinea pigs seem more prone to,
which is the focus of this article.
Signs of Guinea Pig Illnesses
While guinea pigs suffer from very few health issues, the diseases and problems
affecting guinea pigs can be surprisingly diverse. Some of the more common
symptoms of illness in guinea pigs include:
 Loss of appetite
 Lethargy
 Audible breathing problems
 Lack of urination/defecation
 Diarrhoea
 Hair loss
 Persistent scratching
If any of these symptoms are experienced then it makes sense to seek veterinary
assistance as soon as possible, as most guinea pig illnesses will clear up quite
quickly if caught early on.
Common Illnesses in Guinea Pigs
Dental Problems
Guinea pig’s teeth grow constantly throughout their lives. If these are not kept in
check they can become overgrown or misaligned. Dental problems in guinea pigs
can result in your piggie going off his food for long periods of time. Monitoring the
volume of food that your guinea pigs are getting through can be a good indication
of problems.
Even more effectively, carry out weekly health checks on your guinea pigs, where
you can very gently pull back the lips and inspect your guinea pigs teeth. Here’s
how.
As a preventative method, guinea pigs should be provided with tough chews to
gnaw on. Anything from wooden toys to toasted wholemeal bread are suitable
options.

20. If your guinea pig is still unlucky enough to be affected then it will normally be
necessary to have your vet gently clip the overgrown teeth. This is a fiddly, but
reasonably hassle-free procedure.
Diarrhoea
While guinea pigs positively thrive on a diet rich in fruits and vegetables, such
foodstuffs have been known to cause diarrhoea in the past. This is especially so
when very watery items – such as iceberg lettuce – have been fed in large
quantities.
However, it’s not just diet which can cause digestive problems in guinea pigs;
bacterial infections of the gut can also be a causative factor.
In cases where your guinea pig is producing runny stools, withdraw all fruit and
vegetable matter from their diet, increase the fibre content of their menu (such as
with the provision of extra hay) and seek veterinary attention. In most cases guinea
pigs with diarrhoea will recover quickly once the necessary changes have been
made to their care.
Mites
Guinea pigs are not normally prone to too many parasitic infections. Of the
potential problems, however, mites are one of the most common. These are
typically picked up either from contact with another infected guinea pig, or are
transported in the hay/straw they are given.
As a result, there is little that can be done to fully protect your guinea pigs from
mites, apart from carrying out regular health checks and ensuring you use only
good quality hay and straw.
If infected, the mites will burrow into the skin of your guinea pig, leading to
irritation. This is turn can cause your guinea pig to constantly scratch itself, leading
to red-raw skin and hairloss.
There are a range of effective treatment available to get rid of mite infections, but it
is always wise to seek the advice of your vet. Remember that it will normally be
necessary to disinfect the cage too, in order to prevent mites from coming back
again in the future.
Respiratory Infections
Guinea pigs come from drier areas of South America, and they tend not to cope very
well with damp British weather. If kept outside, or in a damp room of the house,
guinea pigs may develop signs of pneumonia or other respiratory infections.

21. Such diseases most commonly manifest themselves in the form of wheezing,
crackling when breathing or general lethargy. If your guinea pig looks or sounds like
it’s just run a marathon then there’s a good chance that he or she is suffering from
a respiratory infection.
As with all guinea pig illnesses, veterinary advice should be sought as early as
possible, though in the future note that keeping guinea pigs indoors during the
winter months can avoid many respiratory problems.
Scurvy
Guinea pigs are notable for being one of the few species (besides humans) which
cannot create their own ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Just like us, therefore, it is
necessary to ensure that your guinea pig has suitable vitamin C in their diet.
A range of dietary options may be chosen. Firstly, try to feed foods which are rich in
such vitamins, such as citrus fruits and kiwi. Supplements may also be purchased
which can be added to your guinea pig’s water bottle.
A lack of vitamin C can make itself felt in a range of ways, including locomotive
problems, diarrhoea and weight loss, so it’s best to avoid problems before they
arise.
Urinary Problems
Female guinea pigs in particular seem prone to cystitis. Urinary infections can
make themselves known in a range of forms, from blood in the urine, to a lack of
urination, through to discomfort when urinating.
It is very difficult to treat urinary problems at home, so if you see any signs of
potential infection it is best to consult your veterinarian as soon as possible.