The document discusses issues with espresso and how to improve it. It states that espresso is often made from lower quality coffee beans and inconsistently extracted. The author advocates measuring extraction levels and adjusting variables like grind size and dose to achieve full and balanced extraction. The document also discusses issues with roasting like underdevelopment and lack of quality control, and suggests using tools like color measurement and customized assessment forms to improve consistency.
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Espresso why how
1. ESPRESSO: WHY YOU HATE IT AND
HOW TO FIX IT
BY
Ben Kaminsky
US Cup Tasting Champion 2009, ’10, ’11
Source, Roast, Brew, Design Consulting
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
2. BEFORE WE MOVE ON...
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
3. “QUALITY IS NOT SUBJECTIVE”
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
4. “QUALITY IS NOT SUBJECTIVE”
-Ben Kaminsky
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
7. WHAT IS SPECIALTY COFFEE?
“Specialty coffee can consistently exist through the dedication of the people who have
made it their life's work to continually make quality their highest priority.”
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
8. WHAT IS SPECIALTY COFFEE?
“Specialty coffee can consistently exist through the dedication of the people who have
made it their life's work to continually make quality their highest priority.”
Businesses that focus primarily on the flavor of coffee.
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
9. WHAT IS SPECIALTY COFFEE?
“Whether green bean, roasted bean or prepared beverage and by the quality of life that
coffee can deliver to all of those involved in its cultivation, preparation and degustation. A
coffee that delivers satisfaction on all counts and adds value to the lives and livelihoods of all
involved is truly a specialty coffee.” - Ric Rhinehart
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
10. WHAT IS SPECIALTY COFFEE?
In essence, the concept was quite simple: special geographic microclimates produce beans
with unique flavor profiles, which she referred to as 'specialty coffees.' -Don Holly
paraphrasing Erna Knutsen
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
11. WHAT IS SPECIALTY COFFEE?
Extracted coffee of any concentration, where by virtue of its flavor alone, one
could derive some sense of that coffee’s high quality of picking, country of
origin, variety, terroir and/or processing.
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
12. WHAT IS SPECIALTY COFFEE?
Extracted coffee of any concentration, where by virtue of its flavor alone, one
could derive some sense of that coffee’s high quality of picking, country of
origin, variety, terroir and/or processing.
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
13. WHAT DO WE KNOW?
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
14. WHAT DO WE KNOW?
...actually.
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
16. ESPRESSO: YOUR MOST SOLD PRODUCT
Also, probably comprised of your worst green coffees and the ones you’re least proud of...
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
31. DEFINITION OF ESPRESSO BY SCAA
• 7-9g
of coffee per 45ml beverage
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
32. DEFINITION OF ESPRESSO BY SCAA
• 7-9g
of coffee per 45ml beverage
• Assuming
fresh coffee, this equates to about 20-25g of beverage by weight
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
33. DEFINITION OF ESPRESSO BY SCAA
• 7-9g
of coffee per 45ml beverage
• Assuming
• “Flow
fresh coffee, this equates to about 20-25g of beverage by weight
time” of 22-28 seconds, so actual brew time of 26-40 seconds.
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
34. SUMMER 2012 EP
STUDY
Does pressure profiling in espresso actually
increase extraction?
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
39. •1kg
minimum coffee in the Robur hopper
•Correct
headspace (proper doses = 2-3mm minimum)
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
40. •1kg
minimum coffee in the Robur hopper
•Correct
headspace (proper doses = 2-3mm minimum)
•Best
results using VST 20g basket. If you don’t like the way your coffee
tastes in the VST basket, is because you don’t like the way your coffee
and/or roasts taste. Its not the basket...
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
41. •1kg
minimum coffee in the Robur hopper
•Correct
headspace (proper doses = 2-3mm minimum)
•Best
results using VST 20g basket. If you don’t like the way your coffee
tastes in the VST basket, is because you don’t like the way your coffee
and/or roasts taste. Its not the basket...
•200f/93c
at the group
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
42. •1kg
minimum coffee in the Robur hopper
•Correct
headspace (proper doses = 2-3mm minimum)
•Best
results using VST 20g basket. If you don’t like the way your coffee
tastes in the VST basket, is because you don’t like the way your coffee
and/or roasts taste. Its not the basket...
•200f/93c
at the group
•Flat
58.4mm tampers actually extract espresso higher than other
tampers (i.e. curved, c-flat, etc).
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
53. WHY AREN’T MORE ROASTERS
CALIBRATING TO AN EVEN AND FULL
EXTRACTION OF THEIR COFFEES?
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
54. Acidity
Too High
Roast Darker
Low extraction = sourness
(percieved as acidity)
Downward Spiral
of Death
Reduce extraction %
(shorter shot)
Coffee is More Soluble
(ext% increases)
Acidity Lower
but
Tastes Roasty
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
55. Acidity
Too High
Roast Darker
Low extraction = sourness
(percieved as acidity)
Downward Spiral
of Death
Reduce extraction %
(shorter shot)
Coffee is More Soluble
(ext% increases)
Acidity Lower
but
Tastes Roasty
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
56. Acidity
Too High
Roast Darker
Low extraction = sourness
(percieved as acidity)
Downward Spiral
of Death
Reduce extraction %
(shorter shot)
Coffee is More Soluble
(ext% increases)
Acidity Lower
but
Tastes Roasty
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
57. Acidity
Too High
Roast Darker
Low extraction = sourness
(percieved as acidity)
Downward Spiral
of Death
Reduce extraction %
(shorter shot)
Coffee is More Soluble
(ext% increases)
Acidity Lower
but
Tastes Roasty
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
58. Acidity
Too High
Roast Darker
Low extraction = sourness
(percieved as acidity)
Downward Spiral
of Death
Reduce extraction %
(shorter shot)
Coffee is More Soluble
(ext% increases)
Acidity Lower
but
Tastes Roasty
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
59. Acidity
Too High
Roast Darker
Low extraction = sourness
(percieved as acidity)
Downward Spiral
of Death
Reduce extraction %
(shorter shot)
Coffee is More Soluble
(ext% increases)
Acidity Lower
but
Tastes Roasty
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
60. Acidity
Too High
Roast Darker
Low extraction = sourness
(percieved as acidity)
Downward Spiral
of Death
Reduce extraction %
(shorter shot)
Coffee is More Soluble
(ext% increases)
Acidity Lower
but
Tastes Roasty
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
61. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
62. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
63. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
64. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
65. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
66. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
67. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
68. Balance.
Acidity
Too Low
More Sweentess,
Less salty/sour
Roast Lighter
Upward Spiral
of Happiness
Measure it.
Extract Higher, duh.
Coffee is Less Soluble
(ext% decreases)
Acidity Higher
but
Tastes Salty/Sour
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
71. POINTS PROVEN BY THE EK
• Essentially
all espresso channels to a
certain degree in most grinders
• Shots
around 9%tds taste like 12%tds on
a robur or comparable grinder.
• There
are far too many fines in our
espresso
• Serve
• We
as many different coffees as you like
waste far too much coffee
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
74. •18g
dose at EUR.35¢/USD.47¢/.295p per dose
•€19.5/kg
•60g
•15
or $11.96/lb or £16.4/kg
flush per grind change at €1.17/$1.57/.98p
grind adjustments per day including morning dial in...
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
75. Cost of Goods into the Trash:
€8,368.80
$11,299.55
£7,036.14
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
80. UNDERDEVELOPMENT HAS NO FIXED
DEFINITION
It simply “depends”
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
81. GET THE COFFEE IN AND OUT OF THE
MACHINE AS QUICKLY AS YOU CAN TO
ACHIEVE THE ROAST SOLUBILITY AND
SWEETNESS YOU REQUIRE.
Ben Kaminsky
Saturday, November 9, 13
88. CROPSTER SCORING
Aids in assessing large numbers of roasts quickly
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
89. CUSTOMIZING FORMS FOR ROAST ASSESSMENT
RitRo + SqMi - ROAST ASSESSMENT FORM “N8000”
PRESENCE
OF ROAST
-5
PRESENCE
OF BAKEY
-5
PRESENCE
PRESENCE
OF UNDER D OF AGE
-5
-5
SWEETNESS
10 x 3
Name:
CLARITY
10 x 3
QUALITY OF ACIDITY
10 x 3
OVERALL/CUPPERS POINTS
10
TOTAL
1.
NOTES
2.
NOTES
3.
NOTES
4.
NOTES
5.
NOTES
6.
NOTES
.7
NOTES
8.
Saturday, November 9, 13
Ben Kaminsky
