2. Mountaineering
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The term mountaineering describes the sport of mountain climbing, including ski
mountaineering.
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Hiking in the mountains can also be a simple form of mountaineering when it involves
scrambling, or short stretches of the more basic grades of rock climbing, as well as crossing
glaciers.
3. The First Climbers
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Historically, many cultures have harbored superstitions about mountains, which they often
regarded as sacred due to their proximity with heaven, such as Mount Olympus for the
Ancient Greeks.
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In 1492, Antoine de Ville, lord of Domjulien and Beaupré, was the first to ascend the Mont
Aiguille, in France, with a little team, using ladders and ropes. It appears to be the first
recorded climb of any technical difficulty, and has been said to mark the beginning of
mountaineering.
4. Styles of Mountaineering
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A mountaineer who adopts Alpine style is referred to as an Alpine Mountaineer.
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Alpine Mountaineers are typically found climbing in medium-sized glaciated mountain areas
such as the Alps or Rocky Mountains. Medium-sized generally refers to altitudes in the
intermediate altitude (7,000' to 12,000') and first half of high altitude (12,000' to 18,000')
ranges.
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However, alpine style ascents have been done throughout history on extreme altitude (18,000'
to 29,000') peaks also, albeit in lower volume to expedition style ascents.
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Alpine style refers to a particular style of mountain climbing that involves a mixture of snow
climbing, ice climbing, rock climbing, and glacier travel, where climbers generally single carry
their loads between camps, in a single push for the summit.
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Light and fast is the mantra of the Alpine Mountaineer.
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The term alpine style contrasts with expedition style (as commonly undertaken in
the Himalayan region or other large ranges of the world), which could be viewed as
slow and heavy, where climbers may use porters, pack animals, glacier airplanes,
cooks, multiple carries between camps, usage of fixed lines etc.
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A mountaineer who adopts this style of climbing is referred to as an Expedition
Mountaineer.
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Expedition mountaineers still employ the skill sets of the alpine mountaineer,
except they have to deal with expanded time scale, more severe weather
exposure, and additional skills unique to expeditionary climbing.
6. Expedition Style
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uses multiple trips between camps to carry supplies up to higher camps
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group sizes are often larger than alpine style climbs because more supplies are carried
between camps
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fixed lines are often used to minimize the danger involved in continually moving between
camps
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supplemental oxygen is frequently used
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higher margin of safety in relation to equipment, food, time, and ability to wait out storms at
high camps
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avoidance of being trapped in storms at high altitudes and being forced to descend in
treacherous avalanche conditions
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possible higher exposure to objective hazards such as avalanches or rockfall, due to slower
travel times between camps
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higher capital expenditures
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longer time scale
7. Alpine Style
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climbers climb the route only once because they do not continually climb up and down
between camps with supplies
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fewer supplies are used on the climb, therefore fewer personnel are needed
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alpine-style ascents do not leave the climber exposed to objective hazards as long as an
expedition-style climb does; however, because of the speed of the ascent relative to an
expedition-style climb there is less time for acclimatization
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supplemental oxygen is not used
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danger of being trapped at high altitude due to storms, potentially being exposed to HAPE or
HACE
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lower capital expenditures
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shorter time scale