1. 64 COTSWOLD STYLE MAY 2014
From the spectacular Inca ruins of
Machu Picchu and the shimmering
waters of Lake Titicaca to the lush
rainforest of the Amazon basin, the
huge diversity of Peru’s attractions
will never cease to enchant and
enthuse the visitor.
Reluctant to depart the wonderful
Peruvian cuisine and magnificent
colonial architecture of Lima with its
Spanish plazas, churches, cloisters and
monasteries, I was soon buzzing
excitedly south aboard a light aircraft. As
we traversed the glorious isolation of the
Nazca Desert, suddenly the Nazca Lines
were below us, a series of ancient
geoglyphs carved into the plateau. The
remaining short flight to Arequipa was a
dream going back in time, theorising the
Nazca Lines as extra-terrestrial runways
or as an early settler’s water-sourcing
religious symbol. I snapped out of my
day dream as a stupendous scene
emerged from the plane’s window with
snow-capped volcano El Misti appearing
within a backdrop of Pichu-Pichu and
Chachani mountains with Arequipa
nestled below.
Arequipa is a shining ‘White City’, of
exquisite Spanish-inspired architectural
treasures created from the chalk
coloured volcanic stone of the area. One
could spend many sunny days ambling
the plazas, gardens, churches and the
enchanting Santa Catalina Convent, but
once again I had to drag myself away
from Arequipa’s beauty and fascinating
history. Adventure beckoned as the bus
climbed past cattle, llamas and
traditionally dressed Andean women
travelling beside the road into the
spectacularly dramatic volcanic
panorama of Colca Canyon. The Colca
Canyon is twice as deep as the Grand
Canyon and its steep jutting walls are
home to the mighty Andean condor. My
heart pounded in my rib-cage as I
perched on the rugged cliff edge,
watching condors nesting, scavenging
and gliding on the thermals below. The
Rio Colca snakes its way through the
heart of the gorge, with sunshine
glancing off the terraced slopes and
within the majesty of being in the upper
world of the gods, I was lost once again
– soaring with the condors in a wingsuit
and imagining the thrill of human flight!
After the road journey through
continuously magical landscapes, we
arrived at Lake Titicaca. A calmness
descended upon me and I felt I’d
reached the top of the world with the
lake’s majestic deep blue waters reflecting
the vast sky back on itself. Lake Titicaca
is the highest navigable lake in the world
and pretty soon a motor boat zipped me
across its glassy surface to the man-made
floating Uros Islands where the Quechua
speaking inhabitants still live as they did
centuries ago when they retreated here
from the Incas. The islands are made
from layers of totora reeds that grow in
the shallows of Titicaca. I revelled in my
glimpse of this very unusual way of life
marvelling at the ingenuity of this
community as they continuously weave
the totora into roofs, walls, mats and
fishing rafts. Taquile Island is non-
floating but an equally fascinating place
in the middle of the lake with a wide
variety of pre-Incan and Incan ruins,
whilst the private Suasi Island is perfect
for those wishing to explore the quieter,
less travelled side of the lake.
Once again reluctant to leave but
thrilled to arrive in mythical Cusco,
‘Navel of the world,’ the important Inca
religious and military stronghold. Cusco
is absolutely stunning with an
extraordinary mixture of pre-Columbian
ruins, elaborate Incan stonework and
citadels with beautiful colonial Spanish
architecture. To make the treat complete
I had arrived in time for one of the
many hundreds of festivals held in
Cusco to pay homage to various patron
saints or important attributes of Mother
Earth. Peruvians are joyous people,
sociable and welcoming and never more
so than during a fiesta! This festival is a
re-enactment of Inca traditions to thank
the Sun God for healthy crops. The
spectacle involves much rejoicing, pan-
FEED THE IMAGINATION
AND BROADEN THE MIND
MAY 2014 COTSWOLD STYLE 65
Self-professed adventuress; Lucy Garbutt is left serene
and spiritual when she takes a mystical journey to Peru
pipes blasting, elaborately costumed
street dancers whirling to live music,
high priests praying while processing
along flower festooned streets with the
first born Son of the Sun carried on a
golden throne. Cusco is a rare treat in
itself but combined with the festival, a
most enlightening experience!
The highlight of my journey was
experiencing the famous Inca Citadel of
Machu Picchu in its awe-inspiring and
very inaccessible location high in the
Andes. The adventure commenced
aboard the enchanting Machu Picchu
train and culminated in a fascinating
journey of helter skelter as the train
traversed the steep mountain slopes,
with the climax being a series of switch
backs where the train crawled back and
forth on its journey up the mountain.
From here the route continues along
original stone Inca Highways traversing a
mountain range, crossing rivers and
valleys through dry scrub, lush cloud
forest and high-altitude grassland. After
hours of uphill labour I was rewarded
with a most spectacular site of exquisite
ruins and curved agricultural terraces
clinging to the steep ridge high above
the valley below – I had arrived at Winay
Wayna. Blown away amidst these
distinctive ruins my imagination soared
with the magnitude of my surroundings
and an otherworldly spiritual surge
pulsed through every nerve in my body. I
sat still for a very long time taking it all in.
My first glimpses of Machu Picchu
were no less epic. I made the dramatic
entrance to the lost city at dawn through
lush jungle flora to the elevated Sun
Gate. The jagged peaks and terracing,
shrouded in mist, added to the magic.
Tantalising hints of the ruins emerged as
the sun rapidly rose until the ruins
glowed like an emerald jewel to salute a
new day. My day at Machu Picchu was
spent in stratospheric levels of awe as I
explored the site with its polished dry-
stone walls which were once palaces of
the finest Inca stonework, and inlaid
steps, baths, water channels, temples,
fountains, tombs and sacred squares.
This high altitude site was the antithesis
of anything I have ever seen before and
the hours melted away while marvelling
at its beauty, mystery and purpose. It was
a bonus to climb the lushly forested
Huayna Picchu for a view back across
the famous saddle - straddled with ruins
spilling down the terraced slopes, framed
with dramatic views of the Urubamba
Canyon and its roaring river far below.
World Odyssey specialises in tailor
made journey worldwide, but for
something a little bit different World
Odyssey has teamed up with Shaman
Jon Rasmussen to offer a unique, life-
changing journey of empowerment to
Peru. This June 2014, The Shaman
Odyssey embarks on a journey of self-
discovery following in the footsteps of
Bruce Parry, partaking in ancient brews
and making intense new connections
with nature. If you feel a need for a
‘what-am-I-doing-with-my-life sabbatical’,
or decide its time to ‘meet your soul’
then a spiritual journey to Peru with
Shaman Jon as your guide might be the
answer – for more information on
anything to do with Peru, South America
or anywhere on the planet, please visit
www.world-odyssey.com or call one of
our travel specialists for advice on:
01905 731373.
PERU
travel style
“Tantalising hints of the ruins
emerged as the sun rapidly
rose until the ruins glowed
like an emerald jewel to
salute a new day.”
“
000 Travel Lucy Garbutt May 14:Layout 1 10/04/2014 14:07 Page 64