1. 14 FITNESSRX APRIL 2015 www.fitnessrxwomen.com
● BEAUTY INFO-BITS
● BY LISA STEUER
What are effective
ingredients to treat
skin discoloration?
Unevenness of skin tone is the
number one complaint from women.
There are dozens of products to help
with discoloration, which often make
promises that can’t be kept.
Unfortunately, even the best products
will take two to three months before
improvement is noticed. I will highlight
some of the key ingredients to look for
so that you can be your own skin-care
expert.
Brown spots on the face generally
are a result of three factors:
1.The sun: sun spots (large looking
speckled freckles called lentigines).
2. After trauma: Post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation, a condition in which
an injury or inflammation attracts
pigmentation to the area when the
condition resolves (i.e., acne, rash,
trauma).
3. Hormones: Melasma may occur
during pregnancy or with birth control
pills and presents as large brown
patches over cheeks and forehead.
The quickest way to treat sun spots is
with an Intense Pulse Light device, IPL
or “photofacial.” This device may make
the other two causes of pigmentation
worse, as these are caused by
inflammation and can unpredictably
darken from any irritation to the skin.
All types of discoloration have one
thing in common— strict sun protection
and avoidance are mandatory. No
matter the cause of your discoloration,
those pigmented cells are programmed
to darken immediately with ultraviolet
light and heat. You may spend a month
successfully evening out your
complexion and one day in the sun will
ignite those pigment cells to fire up and
darken. So, seek shade, enjoy the
outdoors early and late in the day, wear
a wide-brimmed hat and apply a
sunscreen with SPF 30-plus with zinc
oxide every single morning. My favorite
daily sunscreens are EltaMD Physical,
Daily or Clear.
Lightening agents to look for include:
1. Hydroquinone: Inhibits pigment
(melanin) formation. The most widely
available ingredient with 2 percent
strength over the counter and 4
percent through a dermatologist.
Hydroquinone works well, but has been
under scrutiny for questionable health
risks with long-term, widespread use.
Risks include allergy, skin irritation and
potential to darken skin. It is best to
use for two- to three-month bursts and
use a safer alternative the rest of the
time. It is not safe to use during
pregnancy.
2. Arbutin: A natural form of
hydroquinone derived from plants,
including bearberry, blueberry, mulberry
and cranberry. Has similar mechanism
and effects as hydroquinone with better
safety profile.
3. Kojic acid: Antioxidant that works
by breaking down the pigment in the
skin and preventing its production. May
cause skin irritation and is unstable in
many formulations.
4. Licorice (glabridin): Non-toxic and
slows pigment production, and is anti-
inflammatory.
5. Glutathione: An antioxidant that
inhibits pigment production. Difficult to
absorb into cells, it is enhanced with
vitamin C or E. N-acetyl cysteine orally
will also boost its level.
6. Niacinamide: A form of vitamin B3
that inhibits the transfer of pigment to
the skin’s upper layer. Also anti-
inflammatory, reduces acne and
increases skin moisture.
7. Azelaic acid: Also works for acne
and selectively works on overactive
melanocytes so it won’t affect normal
pigment on skin.
8. Vitamin C: An antioxidant, also
protects from sun damage but is
unstable.
Penetration of these lightening
agents will be enhanced if you apply a
product that will exfoliate and loosen
the bonds of the top layer of the skin.
Plus, exfoliation will provide a healthy
glow to skin and remove those top
layers containing old pigmentation.
Look for products containing retinol
and glycolic acid.
Avoiding sugar is also helpful in
controlling skin discoloration, as a
sugar molecule is needed in pigment
production. Other dietary changes,
which may assist, include consuming
foods with carotenoids and vitamin C.
WIN A $100 GIFT CERTIFICATE
TOWARD SKIN CARE
PRODUCTS!
Submit a question for Dr. Haley to
answer in the next issue— if your
question is chosen, you’ll win a $100
gift certificate toward her skin care line,
Derivations! Email your question to
editor@fitnessrxwomen.com and be
sure to include your contact info. A new
winner will be chosen each month!
Dr. Jennifer Haley is a board-certified
dermatologist with a degree in Nutrition Science
from Cornell University. She has been an NPC bikini
competitor, consultant to the US Capitol, and is the
co-founder of the skin care line, Derivations— which
offers complimentary skin consultations. She
enjoys an active lifestyle in Scottsdale, AZ and
Montrose, CO with her husband and three boys. ››
BEAUTY QUESTION
OF THE MONTH
with Dr. Jennifer Haley
FitRxWarmUP