Erdem Moralioglu is a London-based Canadian-Turkish fashion designer who recently opened his own flagship store in London's posh Mayfair neighborhood, marking the 10th anniversary of his eponymous label. Moralioglu is known for his feminine yet modern take on womenswear that bridges artisanal craftsmanship and mass appeal. He draws influence from his mixed cultural background and experiences feeling rootless as a child. While he struggled early on to establish himself, Moralioglu's star rose in the late 2000s when high-profile women like Sarah Brown and politicians began wearing his pieces. His success is due both to his passion for creating beautiful clothing for women and his

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RAMP: IMAXTREE; PORTRAIT: COURTESY ERDEM
MeetErdemMoralioglu,thedesignerwho
changedthewaytheBritishcapitaldresses
andbridgedthegapbetweenartisanal
workmanshipandmassappeal
ByJeenaSharma
LON
DON
EYE
Inthelivesofmostyoungdesigners,openinganindependentflagship
storewithnosupportfromsponsorsorinvestorsisadream,letalone
havingastoreinoneofthemosthigh-endareasinoneofthemost
expensivecitiesintheworld.ButforLondon-basedCanadian-Turkish
designerErdemMoralioglu,thatdreamcametrueafewmonthsago
inLondon’sposhMayfair,markingthetenthanniversaryofhis
eponymouslabel.“Erdemhasestablishedasuccessfulbusiness,never
compromisinghisvisionorindependencetocreateabrandthatis
equallycommercialandcreative,”saysSebastianManes,buyingand
merchandisingdirectoratSelfridges,London.
Moralioglu’ssignatureisafeminineyetmoderntakeonwomenswear,
andhehasbeencreatingsartorialfairytalesforwomenlikeMichelle
Obama,KeiraKnightley,SiennaMiller,andKateMiddletonsince2005.
Andhisownstoryisnothingshortofafairytale.Bornandraisedin
Montreal,hegrewupwatchingFrenchcoutureshowsandTimBlanks
onChannelFive,whilehismothersharedherloveofImpressionism
andManetwithhimandhistwinsister,Sara.Thefemaleinfluences
inhischildhoodgothim“preoccupiedwithhowwomenlooked”.
Duetotheculturalmixhisparentswere,healsoadmitstofeeling
asortofrootlessness.“MymotherwasfromBirminghamwhile
myfatherwasTurkish.AndmysisterandIwereborninMontreal.
Ialwaysgrewupwithasenseofdisplacement.Mymotherwasalways
homesickandsowasmyfather,andIgrewupasifIdidn’thave
anyroots,”heconfesses.Thisdisparityinspiredhimtomove
awayandfindhisown.AfterashortstintasaninternatVivienne
Westwood,thedesignerwontheChereningScholarshiptoforan
MAatLondon’sRoyalCollegeofArtin2000,wherehemethis
long-termpartner,PhilipJoseph.
LikemanyyoungartistsinLondon,hestruggledtofindthemeans
toestablishhimself,andonlyin2005didhedebuthisfirstcollection
atLondonFashionWeek’sFashionFringe.Thefollowingseason,he
soldhisentirerangetoBarneysNewYork.In2009,thenBritishprime
minister’swife,SarahBrown,wasspottedinoneofMoralioglu’spopular
pieces,aswereafewotherwomenpoliticians.Thiswasamajorturning
pointinhislife,alongwithhisFall2010collection,whichshowcased
hissignatureprinteddressesinlaceandsilkandfoundedhisskillsas
amasterpattern-cutter.Aroundthistime,hiscollaborationswith
eyewearbrandssuchasCutlerandGrossandwomen’sfootwear
designerNicholasKirkwoodalsobroughthimsteadyfame.Hehas
sincewonnumerousgrantsandprizes,includingtheBritishFashion
Council’sFashionForwardfundandFashionEnterpriseaward.These
wereofpivotalsignificanceinsupportinghimfinancially.
Buthisself-madefashionempirecanalsobecreditedtohispassion
forcreatingsomethingbeautifulforwomen,andhisabilitytotake
somethingfromconcepttocreation.“Myideasbecometangiblewhen
Idesignsomethingandfitit,andunderstandhowawomanfeelsinit.
Iloveitwhensomethinggoesfromjustanideatoreality.”