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Sustainable
Innovation in Fashion
Design: Materials &
Processes


Summer Rayne Oakes
Source4Style.com
The New Art & Science of
                           Sustainable Design:
                           Innovations in the Textile & Apparel Industry




                                                Summer Rayne Oakes
                                            Sustainable Brands 6.9.10
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Highlights
              Personal journey

              Five principles of good design

        Clash of Cultures: Tradition &
      Technology

        Sustainability: Where industry is
      headed
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Thomas Shaha
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Thomas Shaha
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Five Principles of Good Design




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Good design is invisible.



Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Good design solves problems.




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Good design considers life cycle.




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Good design is transparent.




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Good design mimics nature.




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Traditional vs.Technological



Wednesday, June 9, 2010
PD   Silk Production
                                         traditional




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
PD   Silk Production
                                        technological




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Thomas Shaha
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wired.com
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Spider Fibers
                                                                       Large diameter egg
                                                                       Case fiber (Tubuliform)
        Flagelliform               Aggregate Tubuliform

                                                 Minor ampullate

                                                                                                          Capture Spiral
                                                                                                          (Flagelliform)


                                                          Pyriform
                                                                               Glue coating
                                              Acini-                           (Aggregate silk) (?)
                                Major         form
                              ampullate




                                                                                           Wrapping and egg case fiber
                                                                                           (aciniform)


                          Web reinforcement
                          (Minor ampullate
                                                  Dragline (major        Pyriform silk (?)
                          1 and 2)
                                                  ampullate 1 and 2)
                                                                                     Vollrath, F. J. Biotechnol. 2000, 74, 67-83.
                                                                                     Hu, X. et al. Cell. Mol. Life Sci. 2006, 63, 1986-1999.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Spider Fibers
                                                                       Large diameter egg
                                                                       Case fiber (Tubuliform)
        Flagelliform               Aggregate Tubuliform

                                                 Minor ampullate

                                                                                                          Capture Spiral
                                                                                                          (Flagelliform)


                                                          Pyriform
                                                                               Glue coating
                                              Acini-                           (Aggregate silk) (?)
                                Major         form
                              ampullate




                                                                                           Wrapping and egg case fiber
                                                                                           (aciniform)


                          Web reinforcement
                          (Minor ampullate
                                                  Dragline (major        Pyriform silk (?)
                          1 and 2)
                                                  ampullate 1 and 2)
                                                                                     Vollrath, F. J. Biotechnol. 2000, 74, 67-83.
                                                                                     Hu, X. et al. Cell. Mol. Life Sci. 2006, 63, 1986-1999.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010
AMNH
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Schematic: Wikipedia

Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Schematic: Wikipedia

Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Wikipedia
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Material Mechanics
                                                                    Energy to break (J/
                 Material         Strength (GPa)   Elasticity (%)
                                                                            kg)
        Nephila Dragline Silk          1.3              40                16x104

       Araneus Dragline Silk           1.1              27                 4x105

           Bombyx mori Silk            0.5              15                 6x104

           Bombyx mori Silk
                                       0.7              37                12x104
           (artificial reeling)

                    Kevlar             3.6               5                 3x104

                   Rubber             0.001             600                8x104

              Nylon, Type 6            0.07             200                6x104



Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Advances in silk
              Artificial reeling (spider silk)       P

              Artificial reeling (silkworm cocoon)   D

              Metal-enhanced silk via ALD
                                                    H
        cDNA recombinant in mammalian
      cells                                         h

Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Lesson:
      Good design takes an Open
       approach to sustainability

Wednesday, June 9, 2010
What is a sustainable material?




Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Parameter            Description                      Units              Weight

                             Carbon dioxide
             GHG              equivalents
                                                     Kg CO2 eq Kg/Fiber         20%



                          Acute toxicity, chronic   LD/LC for dermal, oral,
Human Toxicity            toxicity, reproductive      inhalation; chronic       20%
                          hazard, carcinogenic           toxicity score


                          Acute aquatic toxicity,   Based on Material Data
     Eco-Toxicity         eco-toxicity potential        Safety Sheet
                                                                                20%



                             Total energy use
   Energy Input            including feedstock
                                                         MJ/Kg Fiber           13.33%



    Water Input               Water Usage             Kg Water/Kg Fiber        13.33%



       Land Use                   Yield                  Kg Fiber/Ha           13.33%
                                                                                      Made-By
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
CLASS A CLASS B                    CLASS C     CLASS D       CLASS E

                                                            Conventiona
 Recycled
                                                              l Cotton
  Cotton
                                   Convention               Virgin Nylon
 Recycled
                                    al Hemp      Virgin           6
  Nylon
                                                Polyester
                          Tencel
                                     Ramie                     Cupro
Recycled
                                                 Poly-
Polyester Organic
                     PLA                         acrylic      Bamboo
          Cotton
                                                               Rayon
 Organic
                  Convention                     Modal
  Hemp
                    al Flax                                    Wool
  Organic
                                                              Generic
   Flax
                                                  Made-By     Viscose
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Sustainability is...
           Environmentally-friendly materials
           - (e.g., organic, recycled, biopolymer)

           Environmental processes from farm to factory
           - (e.g., GOTS-Certified, Water/Energy Efficient)

           Fair Labor, Fair-Trade
           - (e.g., Social Compliance, Fair Wages)

           Handmade, Traditional
           - (e.g., Preservation of crafts & culture)



Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Source4Style.com
                          Summer Rayne Oakes
                             646.395.3890
                           sro@s4style.net
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Sustainable Innovation in Fashion and Interior Design: Summer Rayne Oakes

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Sustainable Innovation in Fashion and Interior Design: Summer Rayne Oakes

  • 1. Sustainable Innovation in Fashion Design: Materials & Processes Summer Rayne Oakes Source4Style.com
  • 2. The New Art & Science of Sustainable Design: Innovations in the Textile & Apparel Industry Summer Rayne Oakes Sustainable Brands 6.9.10 Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 3. Highlights Personal journey Five principles of good design Clash of Cultures: Tradition & Technology Sustainability: Where industry is headed Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 14. Five Principles of Good Design Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 15. Good design is invisible. Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 16. Good design solves problems. Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 17. Good design considers life cycle. Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 18. Good design is transparent. Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 19. Good design mimics nature. Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 21. PD Silk Production traditional Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 26. PD Silk Production technological Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 29. Spider Fibers Large diameter egg Case fiber (Tubuliform) Flagelliform Aggregate Tubuliform Minor ampullate Capture Spiral (Flagelliform) Pyriform Glue coating Acini- (Aggregate silk) (?) Major form ampullate Wrapping and egg case fiber (aciniform) Web reinforcement (Minor ampullate Dragline (major Pyriform silk (?) 1 and 2) ampullate 1 and 2) Vollrath, F. J. Biotechnol. 2000, 74, 67-83. Hu, X. et al. Cell. Mol. Life Sci. 2006, 63, 1986-1999. Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 30. Spider Fibers Large diameter egg Case fiber (Tubuliform) Flagelliform Aggregate Tubuliform Minor ampullate Capture Spiral (Flagelliform) Pyriform Glue coating Acini- (Aggregate silk) (?) Major form ampullate Wrapping and egg case fiber (aciniform) Web reinforcement (Minor ampullate Dragline (major Pyriform silk (?) 1 and 2) ampullate 1 and 2) Vollrath, F. J. Biotechnol. 2000, 74, 67-83. Hu, X. et al. Cell. Mol. Life Sci. 2006, 63, 1986-1999. Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 37. Material Mechanics Energy to break (J/ Material Strength (GPa) Elasticity (%) kg) Nephila Dragline Silk 1.3 40 16x104 Araneus Dragline Silk 1.1 27 4x105 Bombyx mori Silk 0.5 15 6x104 Bombyx mori Silk 0.7 37 12x104 (artificial reeling) Kevlar 3.6 5 3x104 Rubber 0.001 600 8x104 Nylon, Type 6 0.07 200 6x104 Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 38. Advances in silk Artificial reeling (spider silk) P Artificial reeling (silkworm cocoon) D Metal-enhanced silk via ALD H cDNA recombinant in mammalian cells h Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 39. Lesson: Good design takes an Open approach to sustainability Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 40. What is a sustainable material? Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 41. Parameter Description Units Weight Carbon dioxide GHG equivalents Kg CO2 eq Kg/Fiber 20% Acute toxicity, chronic LD/LC for dermal, oral, Human Toxicity toxicity, reproductive inhalation; chronic 20% hazard, carcinogenic toxicity score Acute aquatic toxicity, Based on Material Data Eco-Toxicity eco-toxicity potential Safety Sheet 20% Total energy use Energy Input including feedstock MJ/Kg Fiber 13.33% Water Input Water Usage Kg Water/Kg Fiber 13.33% Land Use Yield Kg Fiber/Ha 13.33% Made-By Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 42. CLASS A CLASS B CLASS C CLASS D CLASS E Conventiona Recycled l Cotton Cotton Convention Virgin Nylon Recycled al Hemp Virgin 6 Nylon Polyester Tencel Ramie Cupro Recycled Poly- Polyester Organic PLA acrylic Bamboo Cotton Rayon Organic Convention Modal Hemp al Flax Wool Organic Generic Flax Made-By Viscose Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 43. Sustainability is... Environmentally-friendly materials - (e.g., organic, recycled, biopolymer) Environmental processes from farm to factory - (e.g., GOTS-Certified, Water/Energy Efficient) Fair Labor, Fair-Trade - (e.g., Social Compliance, Fair Wages) Handmade, Traditional - (e.g., Preservation of crafts & culture) Wednesday, June 9, 2010
  • 44. Source4Style.com Summer Rayne Oakes 646.395.3890 sro@s4style.net Wednesday, June 9, 2010