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The Great Ocean Road
                                                                         a place of two voices




                           !"TWO Voices are there; one is of the sea,
                          one of the mountains; each a mighty voice"
       On the walls of a sea view cottage in Lorne, an extract from Wordsworth in 1888




© Wildiaries, 2012
The Great Ocean Road
                            Let us take you on our four day journey
                               along the Great Ocean Road. With a
                                     great nature guide, anyone can
                                           have this experience and
                                                  see this mystifying
                                                    array of animals.




Images and stories
       by Simon Mustoe
       © Wildiaries, 2012
The Great Ocean Road
                    The Great Ocean Walk
                The landscape it passes through is undoubtedly one of
                Australia’s most spectacular. To truly appreciate its rich
                    diversity though, walk away from the road itself and
              explore the lush rainforest, secluded mountain lakes or its
                             beaches shaped by ferocious ocean swells.
The Great Ocean Road
“... the sea suddenly reached out, water clenching their
ankles … like it was trying to drag them down. No-one
ventured that close again”.!!


This coast is a beautiful but eery place with a long
history of ship-wrecks. Nature artist Brett Jarrett spent a
childhood here, combing the beach after storms,
picking up the carcasses of birds that perished at sea.
The Great Ocean Road
                                          Tower Hill
                 The blueprint for the revegetation of Tower
                 Hill still exists today, in the form of a painting
                 from 1855 by Von Guerrard. So before you
                 leave, head out of the park, turn left and you
                 can visit the very place where Von Guerrard
                 painted this masterpiece.
The Great Ocean Road
                                                        Tower Hill
A dutch couple seemed slightly perplexed. "Are they
venomous?", they asked … "yes, John said "but they
are everywhere, you'll have walked past plenty". They
carried on ahead of us, looking a little nervous but
within minutes were back ... they'd found another one
and brought us a photo to show!
The Great Ocean Road
                                                         Waterbirds




As the sun began to drop, thousands of wetland
birds were busy foraging on the sun-tinted lakes.
Recent rainfall has filled the crater at Tower Hill for
the first time in ten years.
The Great Ocean Road
              Lake Elizabeth
               Seeing a platypus was only part of the thrill of
               canoeing through the deep valley, accompanied by
               the sounds of nature as the baton passed from day to
               night.

               The sun had set a long time ago and there was one
               last treat in store. Along the damp gullies live glow-
               worms and the whole forest was covered in these tiny
               blue lights.
The Great Ocean Road

                                              Maits Rest
              ... you might stumble across one of Australia's
              strangest carnivores, lurking in the shadows ... it has
              survived several ice ages, outlived the extinction of
              Tasmanian Tigers on the mainland and it's unique to
              the Otway Ranges. It hunts across the forest floor,
              searching out unsuspecting prey which it snares using
              long, sharp, backward-pointing teeth ...

              it’s a snail! Colloquially known as ‘victor’ after it’s
              scientific name, this is one of the area’s special and
              easy to find animals.
The Great Ocean Road
                                    Waterfalls
                 There's something inscrutable about the
                 raw power of waterfalls. Against the
                 fizzing, thundering and babbling of water,
                 speech, apart from the whoops and yelps
                 from excited children, is reduced to a
                 murmur. The waterfall fosters a respect.
The Great Ocean Road
                             Satin Bowerbirds
               The male had built his bower right on the edge of the
               walking track leading to the Phantom falls. ! He had
               lined it with pretty blue objects mostly bits of
               discarded plastic. !When the female arrived he
               proudly showed her his prized collection.
The Great Ocean Road
                                     Fur-Seals
                  ... another unique perspective of this
                  amazing volcanic landscape. The ceiling
                  architecture of the seals' caves is made
                  up of folded and compressed volcanic
                  ash. The contrasting colour of the
                  turquoise blue sea and reddish cliffs is
                  breathtaking
The Great Ocean Road
                Australasian Gannets


                 The colony is a place of perpetual noise,
                 movement and excitement, death and life.
                 As we prepare to leave, we spot an egg
                 about to hatch. You can see the egg-tooth
                 that the chick uses to break its way to
                 freedom and the circle of life begins again.!
The Great Ocean Road
                                     Hooded Plovers




             ... they take up residence just above the high water mark,
             usually where there are mats of vegetation and bits of
             material thrown up by the last big winter storm. Under every
             stick and plant there are loads of tiny insects and
             crustaceans on which to feed growing chicks.

             (...everywhere we stop, crowds of people gather to ask us
             questions. Ed)
The Great Ocean Road
Rufous Bristlebird
... found nowhere on Earth except for
southern Australia, from the Great Ocean
Road, west into South Australia.

If you glimpse a blackbird-sized bird
doing a 'road runner' impression, head
down, full pelt across a track - this is a
Rufous Bristlebird. The best way to find
them is just to listen. Particularly in the
morning and evening, they will sing VERY
loudly from the dense coastal heath ...
The Great Ocean Road
                                       Koalas


                  ... one hung ungainly on the thread of
                  an outer branch, looking as though it
                  would fall any minute. There were
                  delightful 'wows' by onlookers and the
                  chainsaw-like revving calls of other
                  koalas above us.

                  They didn't seem at all concerned
                  with the small crowd of cameras
                  pointed at them.
The Great Ocean Road
Eastern Grey Kangaroos



A party of Americans asked us where they could see
kangaroos. “Wait until dusk and check any bit of grassland
near a forest” we said.

Later on, we were watching this group on the road side when
the same guys pulled up and to their delight, fulfilled another
of their dreams ... seeing a wild kangaroo.
The Great Ocean Road
To our backs was the “petrified forest”, not a forest at all but evidence of where
volcanoes stood 10,000 years ago. Chunks of land were rolling, imperceptibly slowly,
into the southern ocean whilst the waves thumped against the cliffs.


We stared at the distant horizon, then we spotted it, the largest animal that’s ever
lived on Earth. When the Blue Whale exhales, a 20m high plume of spray shoots up in
the air, visible from miles away. It’s underwater calls can be heard 1000 miles away.



This is truly where the voice of the sea and the voice of the
mountains collide.
All the
  images and
     stories in this
document were collected over
   just a few days and nights on
             the Great Ocean Road.

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Wildiaries Stories from the Great Ocean Road

  • 1. The Great Ocean Road a place of two voices !"TWO Voices are there; one is of the sea, one of the mountains; each a mighty voice" On the walls of a sea view cottage in Lorne, an extract from Wordsworth in 1888 © Wildiaries, 2012
  • 2. The Great Ocean Road Let us take you on our four day journey along the Great Ocean Road. With a great nature guide, anyone can have this experience and see this mystifying array of animals. Images and stories by Simon Mustoe © Wildiaries, 2012
  • 3. The Great Ocean Road The Great Ocean Walk The landscape it passes through is undoubtedly one of Australia’s most spectacular. To truly appreciate its rich diversity though, walk away from the road itself and explore the lush rainforest, secluded mountain lakes or its beaches shaped by ferocious ocean swells.
  • 4. The Great Ocean Road “... the sea suddenly reached out, water clenching their ankles … like it was trying to drag them down. No-one ventured that close again”.!! This coast is a beautiful but eery place with a long history of ship-wrecks. Nature artist Brett Jarrett spent a childhood here, combing the beach after storms, picking up the carcasses of birds that perished at sea.
  • 5. The Great Ocean Road Tower Hill The blueprint for the revegetation of Tower Hill still exists today, in the form of a painting from 1855 by Von Guerrard. So before you leave, head out of the park, turn left and you can visit the very place where Von Guerrard painted this masterpiece.
  • 6. The Great Ocean Road Tower Hill A dutch couple seemed slightly perplexed. "Are they venomous?", they asked … "yes, John said "but they are everywhere, you'll have walked past plenty". They carried on ahead of us, looking a little nervous but within minutes were back ... they'd found another one and brought us a photo to show!
  • 7. The Great Ocean Road Waterbirds As the sun began to drop, thousands of wetland birds were busy foraging on the sun-tinted lakes. Recent rainfall has filled the crater at Tower Hill for the first time in ten years.
  • 8. The Great Ocean Road Lake Elizabeth Seeing a platypus was only part of the thrill of canoeing through the deep valley, accompanied by the sounds of nature as the baton passed from day to night. The sun had set a long time ago and there was one last treat in store. Along the damp gullies live glow- worms and the whole forest was covered in these tiny blue lights.
  • 9. The Great Ocean Road Maits Rest ... you might stumble across one of Australia's strangest carnivores, lurking in the shadows ... it has survived several ice ages, outlived the extinction of Tasmanian Tigers on the mainland and it's unique to the Otway Ranges. It hunts across the forest floor, searching out unsuspecting prey which it snares using long, sharp, backward-pointing teeth ... it’s a snail! Colloquially known as ‘victor’ after it’s scientific name, this is one of the area’s special and easy to find animals.
  • 10. The Great Ocean Road Waterfalls There's something inscrutable about the raw power of waterfalls. Against the fizzing, thundering and babbling of water, speech, apart from the whoops and yelps from excited children, is reduced to a murmur. The waterfall fosters a respect.
  • 11. The Great Ocean Road Satin Bowerbirds The male had built his bower right on the edge of the walking track leading to the Phantom falls. ! He had lined it with pretty blue objects mostly bits of discarded plastic. !When the female arrived he proudly showed her his prized collection.
  • 12. The Great Ocean Road Fur-Seals ... another unique perspective of this amazing volcanic landscape. The ceiling architecture of the seals' caves is made up of folded and compressed volcanic ash. The contrasting colour of the turquoise blue sea and reddish cliffs is breathtaking
  • 13. The Great Ocean Road Australasian Gannets The colony is a place of perpetual noise, movement and excitement, death and life. As we prepare to leave, we spot an egg about to hatch. You can see the egg-tooth that the chick uses to break its way to freedom and the circle of life begins again.!
  • 14. The Great Ocean Road Hooded Plovers ... they take up residence just above the high water mark, usually where there are mats of vegetation and bits of material thrown up by the last big winter storm. Under every stick and plant there are loads of tiny insects and crustaceans on which to feed growing chicks. (...everywhere we stop, crowds of people gather to ask us questions. Ed)
  • 15. The Great Ocean Road Rufous Bristlebird ... found nowhere on Earth except for southern Australia, from the Great Ocean Road, west into South Australia. If you glimpse a blackbird-sized bird doing a 'road runner' impression, head down, full pelt across a track - this is a Rufous Bristlebird. The best way to find them is just to listen. Particularly in the morning and evening, they will sing VERY loudly from the dense coastal heath ...
  • 16. The Great Ocean Road Koalas ... one hung ungainly on the thread of an outer branch, looking as though it would fall any minute. There were delightful 'wows' by onlookers and the chainsaw-like revving calls of other koalas above us. They didn't seem at all concerned with the small crowd of cameras pointed at them.
  • 17. The Great Ocean Road Eastern Grey Kangaroos A party of Americans asked us where they could see kangaroos. “Wait until dusk and check any bit of grassland near a forest” we said. Later on, we were watching this group on the road side when the same guys pulled up and to their delight, fulfilled another of their dreams ... seeing a wild kangaroo.
  • 18. The Great Ocean Road To our backs was the “petrified forest”, not a forest at all but evidence of where volcanoes stood 10,000 years ago. Chunks of land were rolling, imperceptibly slowly, into the southern ocean whilst the waves thumped against the cliffs. We stared at the distant horizon, then we spotted it, the largest animal that’s ever lived on Earth. When the Blue Whale exhales, a 20m high plume of spray shoots up in the air, visible from miles away. It’s underwater calls can be heard 1000 miles away. This is truly where the voice of the sea and the voice of the mountains collide.
  • 19. All the images and stories in this document were collected over just a few days and nights on the Great Ocean Road.