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Historic Textile Introduction to wool, silk & linen
wallcoverings, rugs & upholstery
by Prof. Hein
with the Metropolitan exhibition textiles
Textile Introduction :
MET Historic Examples







Contents: Linen, Silk, wool yarns
Weaves: Brocade, Damask, Cut Pile weave
Fabric Design: Tapestry
Other
Warp (weft-crosswise)
Embroidery
by Prof. Hein , INTR 151 with the Metropolitan Museum 2005
exhibition textiles and departmental storage requests
200 AD Egyptian linens - King Tut
Prof. Jennifer Hein
History of Textiles

Guide- Chpt 3 Notes

Location of Textile Production - Textile Industry Movement &Machines
TEXTILE TIMELINE according to archaeological records
4000 BC
3000 BC

Sheep & wool were traded in Europe & Asia Minor
Linen placed in Egyptian tombs
Weavings are found that were in use in Europe.
Linen produced in the Middle East

2000 BC Linen yarns & wool found used by Swiss
Cotton grown in India. Evidence of spinning, weaving & trading cotton
Linen & wool Tapestries are made in Egypt.
Silk industry begins
SILK & WOOL TIMELINE (Chpt 3, pp. 16-p.22)
1000 BC Ornamental weaving with plant materials:
linen, flax, reed found in Greece
Wool dyeing occurs in Rome
Linen Webster defined as yarn or thread made of flax fibers,
fabric woven from flax yarns
Archaeological extant linen fiber mummy wrappings
Silk- (Webster) thread or fabric made from the soft, lustrous fiber
obtained from the cocoon of the silk-worm.
12th-13th century Italian & German Silk Upholstery
Italian silk and metallic wrapped linen thread,
or German-silk, hemp & tin gilt threads
BASIC WEAVES- UPHOLSTERY FABRIC

Medium Weight- Complex Weaves
Light to Medium Weight Simple
Weaves
DAMASK (stylized floral)
One of the oldest and most popular
staple cloths -a patterned fabric
where the design is the reverse
construction of the satin background always reversible
origin: China via Damascus in
Asia Minor.
SCHUMACHER SAMPLE GLOSSARY of
COMPLEX WEAVES

BROCADE
Historical design figures
Interwoven design of raised all-over,
multi-colored figures (often floral)
easily identified by horizontal bands
of color on back of fabric
not reversible
origin: Medieval Latin, broccare -to
embroider.
BROCADE – (Webster) fabric woven with a raised design

14th Century Metallic Silk Brocades
Textile Description, 5 words:
color, content, pattern / design, weave, product.
Green, silk satin weave floral (design) upholstery.
15th C. Tapestry Wall Coverings
TAPESTRY
with Student Interior Ex.
Historical pictorial designs)
An intricate pattern employing
several sets of warps which
produce a Multi- colored, heavy,
durable fabric -originally made
with a design that illustrated a
story and used as wall hangings
for decoration as well as
insulation (warmth)

origin: Greek tapes -rug.
Tapestry- (Webster) a heavy decorative woven fabric with a pictorial
design / pictures

15 - 17th century Tapestry
WOOL- Webster, yarn, fabric or garments made from fine, soft hair
that forms the fleece of sheep and other animals ( goat, llama,…)

Mid Century Textiles 14th- 16th century
Wool Tapestry Wallcoverings were for warmth then only decorative.
Warp- Webster, a set of yarns placed lengthwise in the loom.
Tapestry originally had wool weft or filling
on a linen warp or ground.

17th c. French Tapestry Artwork
TIMELINE OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY
FROM EUROPE TO THE UNITED STATES

1607-1625
London & India exported sheep to VA and New York City.
1641
Wool woven in American Colonies.
1650s
English textile weavers moved to Lowell, MASS and begins
American textile industry.
1770
George Washington imported Merino Lambs.
1798-1800 Cotton Gin Invented
1800
Industrial Revolution in Textile manufacturing began
War of 1812
Forced American weavers to produce more than personal
goods, so the American textile industry takes off with
production of blankets & cloth for the army.
1814-25
New Harmony, IN had the Harmonist Society who developed
production weaving.
1850s Sewing Machine & Jacquard Loom successfully used in industry.
15-17th Century Regal Design
Tapestry Design Wallcovering & Upholstery Fabrics
Damask- (Webster) a reversible fabric woven with patterns, used esp. for
table linens.

15 - 18th century Damask Wallcovering
DAMASK
stylized floral

Light to Medium Weight Simple Weaves
One of the oldest and most popular staple cloths
a patterned fabric where the design is the reverse construction of the
satin background
always reversible
origin: China via Damascus in Asia Minor.
Damask- Webster, a reversible fabric woven with patterns
1800 / 17th c.
European and Early American Silk Damask Upholstery
17th century / 1650s
blue multicolor wool floral, shell and paisley embroidery
1920’s Paris Art Deco,
Embroidered clothing &
earth tone wool floral border, cut pile rug/ floor covering.
You can make an appt. to view the computer catalog in the
Ratti Center at the MET when you visit NYC.
Some of the textiles in the slide presentation were on view in the 2005
exhibitions others are details of department examples in storage that can
be viewed from the computer database. 212-650-2310
Summary Slide
Historic Textile Introduction
 to linen, silk & wool yarns,
 Brocade, Tapestry & Damask weave structures,
with a mention of embroidery & cut pile
by Prof. Hein
with the Metropolitan exhibition textiles

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Weave & Design in Interior textiles in the NYC Metropolitan Museum- JenniferHein Textiles

  • 1. Historic Textile Introduction to wool, silk & linen wallcoverings, rugs & upholstery by Prof. Hein with the Metropolitan exhibition textiles
  • 2. Textile Introduction : MET Historic Examples      Contents: Linen, Silk, wool yarns Weaves: Brocade, Damask, Cut Pile weave Fabric Design: Tapestry Other Warp (weft-crosswise) Embroidery by Prof. Hein , INTR 151 with the Metropolitan Museum 2005 exhibition textiles and departmental storage requests
  • 3. 200 AD Egyptian linens - King Tut
  • 4. Prof. Jennifer Hein History of Textiles Guide- Chpt 3 Notes Location of Textile Production - Textile Industry Movement &Machines TEXTILE TIMELINE according to archaeological records 4000 BC 3000 BC Sheep & wool were traded in Europe & Asia Minor Linen placed in Egyptian tombs Weavings are found that were in use in Europe. Linen produced in the Middle East 2000 BC Linen yarns & wool found used by Swiss Cotton grown in India. Evidence of spinning, weaving & trading cotton Linen & wool Tapestries are made in Egypt. Silk industry begins SILK & WOOL TIMELINE (Chpt 3, pp. 16-p.22) 1000 BC Ornamental weaving with plant materials: linen, flax, reed found in Greece Wool dyeing occurs in Rome
  • 5. Linen Webster defined as yarn or thread made of flax fibers, fabric woven from flax yarns Archaeological extant linen fiber mummy wrappings
  • 6. Silk- (Webster) thread or fabric made from the soft, lustrous fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silk-worm. 12th-13th century Italian & German Silk Upholstery Italian silk and metallic wrapped linen thread, or German-silk, hemp & tin gilt threads
  • 7. BASIC WEAVES- UPHOLSTERY FABRIC Medium Weight- Complex Weaves Light to Medium Weight Simple Weaves DAMASK (stylized floral) One of the oldest and most popular staple cloths -a patterned fabric where the design is the reverse construction of the satin background always reversible origin: China via Damascus in Asia Minor. SCHUMACHER SAMPLE GLOSSARY of COMPLEX WEAVES BROCADE Historical design figures Interwoven design of raised all-over, multi-colored figures (often floral) easily identified by horizontal bands of color on back of fabric not reversible origin: Medieval Latin, broccare -to embroider.
  • 8. BROCADE – (Webster) fabric woven with a raised design 14th Century Metallic Silk Brocades
  • 9. Textile Description, 5 words: color, content, pattern / design, weave, product. Green, silk satin weave floral (design) upholstery.
  • 10. 15th C. Tapestry Wall Coverings
  • 11. TAPESTRY with Student Interior Ex. Historical pictorial designs) An intricate pattern employing several sets of warps which produce a Multi- colored, heavy, durable fabric -originally made with a design that illustrated a story and used as wall hangings for decoration as well as insulation (warmth) origin: Greek tapes -rug.
  • 12. Tapestry- (Webster) a heavy decorative woven fabric with a pictorial design / pictures 15 - 17th century Tapestry
  • 13. WOOL- Webster, yarn, fabric or garments made from fine, soft hair that forms the fleece of sheep and other animals ( goat, llama,…) Mid Century Textiles 14th- 16th century Wool Tapestry Wallcoverings were for warmth then only decorative.
  • 14. Warp- Webster, a set of yarns placed lengthwise in the loom. Tapestry originally had wool weft or filling on a linen warp or ground. 17th c. French Tapestry Artwork
  • 15. TIMELINE OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY FROM EUROPE TO THE UNITED STATES 1607-1625 London & India exported sheep to VA and New York City. 1641 Wool woven in American Colonies. 1650s English textile weavers moved to Lowell, MASS and begins American textile industry. 1770 George Washington imported Merino Lambs. 1798-1800 Cotton Gin Invented 1800 Industrial Revolution in Textile manufacturing began War of 1812 Forced American weavers to produce more than personal goods, so the American textile industry takes off with production of blankets & cloth for the army. 1814-25 New Harmony, IN had the Harmonist Society who developed production weaving. 1850s Sewing Machine & Jacquard Loom successfully used in industry.
  • 17. Tapestry Design Wallcovering & Upholstery Fabrics
  • 18. Damask- (Webster) a reversible fabric woven with patterns, used esp. for table linens. 15 - 18th century Damask Wallcovering
  • 19. DAMASK stylized floral Light to Medium Weight Simple Weaves One of the oldest and most popular staple cloths a patterned fabric where the design is the reverse construction of the satin background always reversible origin: China via Damascus in Asia Minor.
  • 20. Damask- Webster, a reversible fabric woven with patterns 1800 / 17th c. European and Early American Silk Damask Upholstery
  • 21. 17th century / 1650s blue multicolor wool floral, shell and paisley embroidery
  • 22. 1920’s Paris Art Deco, Embroidered clothing & earth tone wool floral border, cut pile rug/ floor covering.
  • 23. You can make an appt. to view the computer catalog in the Ratti Center at the MET when you visit NYC. Some of the textiles in the slide presentation were on view in the 2005 exhibitions others are details of department examples in storage that can be viewed from the computer database. 212-650-2310
  • 24. Summary Slide Historic Textile Introduction  to linen, silk & wool yarns,  Brocade, Tapestry & Damask weave structures, with a mention of embroidery & cut pile by Prof. Hein with the Metropolitan exhibition textiles