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Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
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Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
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Champions of design vol #2
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Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
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Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
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Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
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Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
Champions of design vol #2
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Champions of design vol #2

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Livro em PDF sobre cases de design de grandes marcas vol #2 …

Livro em PDF sobre cases de design de grandes marcas vol #2

Fonte: http://issuu.com/jonesknowlesritchie/docs/champions_of_design_2

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  • 1. Champions of Design 2More observations on creativity for competitive advantage from jkr
  • 2. Andy Knowles began his career marketing Heineken and Stella Artois atWhitbread before co-founding jkr. Now chairman, he’s as interested as everin lively debate around what gets packaging noticed and chosen.Silas Amos was a founder designer at jkr in 1990. He writes our daily DesignGazette online and is focused on creative strategy as a day job.James Joice joined jkr in 2010. He spends his time scoping out opportunities,establishing new partnerships and helping brands use design to drive growth.jones knowles ritchie specialise in creating eye-catching design to helppeople choose quickly, happily and confidently.www.jkrglobal.com
  • 3. We wish to express our thanks to the manufacturers of the products and servicesportrayed in this publication. Copyright of the images and trademarks used is thatof the legal owner whose moral rights are acknowledged.All rights in the text used in this publication are reserved exclusively to Jones KnowlesRitchie Limited, except as may otherwise have been acknowledged. No part of thispublication may be reproduced without the written permission of the copyright owner.First published by Jones Knowles Ritchie in December 2012.jkr Brand First Books128 Albert StreetLondonNW1 7NE
  • 4. Champions of Design 2 More observations on creativity for competitive advantage from jkrBy Andy Knowles, Silas Amos & James Joice With additional copy by John Naughton
  • 5. IntroductionIt isn’t often that a design agency praises the work of its rivals but this year we aredoing it for a second time, and with even greater enthusiasm.We have increased the number of our champions to thirty-five and tried to include morewinners from the supermarket aisle, not just high-end shops.Our aim is to celebrate great works of design wherever we find them and to give creditequally to the people who created them and the clients who bought them.We collected their stories from a series called ‘Champions of Design’ that we publishthroughout the year – not in design magazines but in Marketing.There is a little self-interest here. The more marketing people who grow to love greatdesign and value its contribution to their brands the easier our job will be if we arefortunate enough to work with them.Over and above this we simply want to share our appreciation of these enthrallingenterprises, they never fail to inspire us. They are confirmation classes in our owndeep-held beliefs. Which are?1. esign is not separate from the product, it is part of it. It should emerge so naturally D from the brand that it feels and sounds right, like the voice of a friend. If design is simply bolted on or used as wrapping paper the cracks will show and the product inside won’t last very long.2. eople will pay a little more for something they want and a lot more for something they P want very much. (Think of the last thing you wanted desperately and ask yourself what part its design played in its attraction.)3. s each of our champions illustrates, design pays for itself many times over. Few other A investments show such a great return. Of course we would say this, you might be thinking, but over 22 years as a design agency we have found it to be true.These are the main lessons we take from the case histories in this book but there is another.A truly great design is inimitable: once you have it it’s yours forever. Competitors may try tocopy you but they will only come second at best.All of which may sound very fine in retrospect but how do you recognise a great designin the first place?Speaking for ourselves we think the answer is viscerally. We feel a mixture of admirationand envy. We wish we’d done it.If you share these feelings when you turn the pages this book will have done its job.
  • 6. Contents Toblerone 8 Roberts Revival 44 Jägermeister 12 MTV 48 Perrier 16 Paul Smith 52 Staedtler 20 Yorkshire Tea 56 Hermès 24 Pez 60 Moleskine 28 Toms 64 illy 32 Pret A Manger 68 Playmobil 36 Monocle 72 Citroën 40 Muji 76
  • 7. Contents Sailor Jerry 80 Dr Martens 116 Cohiba 84 Kiwi 120 Chanel No 5 88 Kenwood 124 Jif 92 Ricard 128 Hunter 96 Benefit 132 Wagamama 100 Supreme 136 Mulberry 104 Crayola 140 Tunnock’s 108 Chupa Chups 144 Howies 112
  • 8. TobleroneHow do you develop a USP when you’re just another chocolatemanufacturer in Switzerland? Answer: fill your chocolatewith a sticky nougat and mould it into a series of triangleswhich people subliminally assume to be a representationof the Alps. Toblerone might not be regarded as the highestquality Swiss chocolate, but it’s certainly the first oneyou’d pick out in an identity parade. In a very crowdedmarketplace, that is surely just as important.What defines an ‘iconic’ design? It’s an overused Rather it’s Toblerone and it resides in a categoryexpression, but, by my reckoning, Toblerone of one. For proof of its genius, consider thatfits the bill. For me, an iconic design features Albert Einstein (employed by the Swiss Federala graphical or stylistic property that symbolises Institute for Intellectual Property in Bern) supposedlythe brand’s values and attributes, thereby creating signed off the design – some endorsement.charisma. One also has to apply best practice: Another myth? Perhaps. But when the legendthe tenacity, over many years, to focus on the core becomes fact, print the legend.iconography and keep investing it with meaning. A top tip: if struggling to separate the last twoToblerone has a distinctive shape and comes in segments of a big bar, use two fingers to pusha distinctively shaped pack. One that looks like the mountain tips together. They will snap aparta mountain, of which you find many in Switzerland. with ease. Some designs you just love, in all theirSo this is definitively ‘Swiss’ chocolate. In truth, dimensions. This is one of them. SAmountains might not have inspired the originalshape, but original intentions are irrelevant – mythand meanings attach themselves to iconic brandslike iron filings to a magnet.It all sounds simple, but such apparent simplicityis a spark of genius. Over time, the iconographyhas allowed the pack to transcend its category.This is no longer another chocolate bar.8
  • 9. 9
  • 10. Timeline 1868 Jean Tobler, the father of Theodor Tobler, opened a sweet shop in Bern, Switzerland. Toblerone logo 1900 Theodor took over the company. 1908 Vintage advertising Theodor and cousin Emil Baumann created the recipe for Toblerone. They chose a unique triangular shape for the bar. 1909 Theodor Tobler patented the process for making Toblerone tram Toblerone and the brand. 1969 A dark version of Toblerone was launched, followed four years later by a white-chocolate version. Advertising, 2009 2008 Toblerone celebrated its 100th anniversary. 2010 The chocolate bars became one triangle shorter to ensure the price stayed the same, despite the Toblerone Valentine’s Day box rising cost of ingredients.10
  • 11. Did you know? One of the following six pieces of information is bogus. Can you find the confection of deceit lurking below?*Toblerone ‘Welcome to the Jungle’ advertising, 2003. 1. he Croatian T 3. n 1995, Swedish I 4. Dragon’s teeth, 6. 0cc were originally 1 equivalent of politician, Mona pyramidal anti-tank called Toblerone, Toblerone is Sahlin, bought two fortifications first but were forced to called Kolumbo. bars of Toblerone used in World War II, change their name among other things are commonly known because of fears on a credit card as ‘Toblerone lines’. about copyright 2. A complex of supposed to be infringement. Manchester used only for University student government 5. he largest ever T flats on the Oxford business. The Toblerone bar Road with low ensuing scandal, weighed 102kg walls and a large known as the and is almost sloping triangular Toblerone Affair, one metre long. roof is known as forced her to ‘the Toblerones’. resign. A similar storyline was employed in the Danish political drama, Borgen. upon 10cc, but none of them was Toblerone. Six is therefore the ringer. *The Mancunian art rockers were known by a variety of names prior to settling 11
  • 12. JägermeisterThe marketing of Jägermeister is the stuff of legend. It hastransformed an unknown, vaguely medicinal drink withan uncertain and slightly sinister past into a best-seller –synonymous with music, youth, sport and hedonism. The latemarketing genius Sidney Frank is the man to take most creditfor this. His techniques are widely studied, but he startedwith a simple premise. He simply described it as ‘the bestdrink in the world’.Like Danny DeVito, Jägermeister demonstrates We should, however, recognise that the initiallythat popularity need not depend on either stature unappealing package was imbued with charismaor beauty. Its packaging is a car-crash of an old- by the innovative marketing of wily distributorsschool Gothic logo-type atop a blaze of bright Sidney Frank Importing. Godfather to many aorange on a scrum-hooker bottle, but it oozes premium drink, including Grey Goose, they fuelledauthenticity and power. Perhaps Jägermeister is Jägermeister’s export growth by first introducingso kitsch it’s cool? it to US drinkers with a squad of shapely ambassadorsAmong more sophisticated peers it is certainly in the on-trade.something of an iconoclast, but its butch name Jägermeister’s now triumphant place near the topand packaging bestow it with a character the logic of the global spirits sector is testimony to howof group discussion would never predict. distinctive design, if given the time to wear in,Logic be damned. Brands accrue meaning from provides enduring gain. AK   use, not the other way around. Younger drinkerswill frequently make traditional brands contemporaryby bending them to their cause.The now ubiquitous Jägerbomb could be put downto a lucky bounce – like cider over ice. The idea wasadopted and disseminated by cutting-edgeconsumers and bartenders.12
  • 13. 13
  • 14. Timeline 1878 Wilhelm Mast opened a vinegar production plant. It served the nearby mines, which used it to cool the rocks before extraction. Advertising, 1970s 1947 His son, Curt Mast, who had branched out into spirit-making in the 1930s, resumed production following a hiatus during World War II. Sponsorship of Eintracht Braunschweig, 1973 1972 Jägermeister began sponsoring motor-racing, including teams in Formula One and the German Touring Car Masters. It continued until 2000. Jägermeister flying bar 1973 The Jägermeister logo appeared on the shirts of players at Eintracht Braunschweig football club. A brief legal battle with the German Football Association led to the brand becoming the first to advertise on team shirts in the German football league. Jägermeister Porsche Turbo RSR 2010 Jägermeister achieved record sales of 82.4 million bottles, despite the onset of the global economic crisis. The UK became the drink’s third-biggest market, following Germany and the US. ‘Live Loud’ campaign 2011 The drink once again achieved record sales, with 87.1 million bottles sold in more than 90 countries. Sales in the UK exceeded 5 million bottles for the first time.14
  • 15. Did you know?Hunt for the truth in one of these at your peril.* 1. hen the drink was W 3. Jägerbombs, 5. A (false) rumour 6. he company’s logo T launched in 1935, comprising a spread around has been interpreted Hermann Göring shot glass of mid-70s Baton erroneously as occupied the position Jägermeister mixed Rouge, Louisiana, a symbolic of Reichsjägermeister with Red Bull, have that the drink representation of and was on familiar been banned in contained opiates. the phrase, ‘Oh terms with the parts of Australia. After the story was Dear God.’ Perhaps liqueur’s inventor, picked up by the a familiar refrain to Carl Mast. Therefore, local paper, sales those who have Jägermeister became 4. Psychostick, rocketed from partaken too freely. known in some a self-styled 10 to 1,000 cases The surrounding quarters as ‘Göring- humorous band per month. circle is the ‘O(h)’, Schnapps’. from Arizona, the stag is ‘dear’ have written The and the cross Jägermeister Love Song. represents ‘God’. 2. Every bottle Sample lyric, ‘You of Jägermeister look your best contains eight when my vision is drops (0.4ml) blurry/That’s not of deer blood. what I meant, I can’t keep from slurring.’ of urban legend, it is categorically untrue. *Although the deer blood story at number two has become the stuff 15
  • 16. PerrierPerrier is simultaneously a design classic and an eco-nightmare.Divorced from its teardrop-shaped bottle it doesn’t seemhalf the product. Yet, its strong sales continue to defyeconomic downturn and the flak directed at the wholeconcept of bottled water. Its perennially chic image will be putto even greater test over the coming years, but ever-inventivead campaigns have so far been equal to the challenge.Although it pains us to admit it, there are some In recent times, growing concerns aboutFrench qualities we simply have to admire. sustainability and a stuttering economy havePerrier is the embodiment of many of them: taken some of the shine off bottled mineraleffortlessly stylish, alluringly sophisticated and waters. Both our consciences and our walletsunapologetically stubborn. For while the droplet- find it a more difficult purchase to justify,shaped bottle is beautiful and distinctive, it is also a truth that the UNICEF Tap project hasimpractical. Its curvature and singular contact exploited to brilliant effect.point make it difficult to get down a production Perrier has found ways to stay relevant though.line with any speed. Its limited-edition designs with well-chosenThat’s what makes it the genuine article; it’s too partners keep the brand feeling fresh. They alsosure of itself to worry about such practicalities. demonstrate the distinctiveness of its core identity.Perrier is brimming with authenticity and that’s For even when it lends its pack canvas to someonewhy it sells 1 billion bottles a year. else, it remains unmistakably Perrier. JJThe brand didn’t just make mineral water anacceptable soft drink – it made it aspirational.As the line ‘the Champagne of waters’ brilliantlyexpressed, you really did feel like you were havinga special moment when you fizzed open a bottleof Perrier. It was a truly status-affirming brand.16
  • 17. 17
  • 18. Timeline 1863 Napoleon III gave mineral water status to a spring in Vergèze. La Femme Noire, Villemot 1898 Dr Louis Perrier bought a spring in southern France and began to sell bottled water from his spa. 1903 Sir Saint-John Harmsworth invested in the L’Etreinte, Villemot company, renaming the spring ‘Source Perrier’. 1985 Perrier with a twist was introduced, with lemon, lime and orange flavours. Le Couple Dansant, Villemot 1992 Nestlé acquired Source Perrier. 2001 The brand introduced a PET bottle after 11 years of Cocktail Mondain, Villemot research into which plastic would be most suitable. 2011 Perrier launched Dita Von Teese limited-edition packaging. La Rousse, Villemot18
  • 19. Did you know? One of the following facts just doesn’t hold water.*Perrier Dita Von Teese, 2011. 1. errier paid a P 2. errier was the first P 3. According to 5. The idea for the reported £250,000 sponsor of the Perrier’s marketing, distinctive shape of to have its product Edinburgh Comedy each bottle of its the original Perrier featured in the 2006 Awards. The first carbonated water bottle is said to have version of Casino winners in 1981, with contains 50 million come to Sir Saint-John Royale. It ran a their production The bubbles. Harmsworth when supporting ad Cellar Tapes, were the he was recuperating campaign featuring Cambridge Footlights, from a car accident. a bottle sporting comprising: Stephen 4. A 1950 advertising The shape of the a dinner jacket and Fry, Hugh Laurie, campaign for Perrier Indian clubs he used beneath it the words, Emma Thompson, declared: ‘Water in his physiotherapy ‘Eau Eau Seven.’ Tony Slattery, which springs out provided the Penny Dwyer as one opens it. inspiration. and Paul Shearer. Water that Laughs. Water like a handful of needles in 6. In 2002, Perrier the mouth.’ introduced a less gassy version of its drink called Eau de Perrier which is sold in blue bottles. *‘Eau James!’ There was no Perrier product placement in Casino Royale, so number one is a downright lie. 19
  • 20. StaedtlerThe ubiquitous yellow and black pencils it produces aresuch a part of our cultural fabric that its name is almostinvisible. But Staedtler has, with the humble Noris andslightly grander Mars, ensured the ongoing prosperity ofan ancient company which still espouses old-fashionedfinancial planning allied to industry and endeavour. Staedtlerproducts are both beautiful and useful, miniature masterpiecesthat we should never take for granted.For all its myriad innovations and ranges, it comes The black tail with HB coding is systematic anddown to the branding of two pencils that has reassuringly functional. Note there is no rubbermade Staedtler the definitive product in its on the tip: wielding this pencil you won’t makecategory. The yellow-and-black Noris got us mistakes. The Mars helmet icon says this is a pencilstarted at school; its distinctive livery can that means business – it knows you are going intotransport us back to the classroom at a glance. battle against the tyranny of a blank sheet.As we grew up, those of us with a design leaning Poor workmen blame their tools, but a trainedbecame aware of the Staedtler ‘Pro’ – the bright professional selects them with care. Staedtler’sblue Mars. As Apple endured its tough times as graphic purity shows confidence. This gives thethe creatives’ computer brand, so the world brand charisma and cachet, and gets it into therespects the Staedtler because it is the weapon hands of designers with rectangular glasses andof choice for designers. wannabes alike. SAWe love it because the design is Dieter Rams ina stick. I dislike semiotic mumbo-jumbo, but, inthis case, I grudgingly observe there is a semioticdimension. First the name. Those Germans areprecise characters; one assumes they keep their pencilssharp too. The bright blue supports this – it’s a colourof care and consideration. It’s calm and measured,but also bold enough to suggest a bit of personality.20
  • 21. 21
  • 22. Timeline 1835 The JS Staedtler company was established in Vintage Mars Lumograph box Nuremberg, Germany, following a long history of pencil-making in the area. 1866 Staedtler employed 54 people, with production reaching more than 2 million pencils a year. Staedtler pencil box, inside lid 1922 A US subsidiary was established, followed four years later by one in Japan. Mars eraser 1988 German production was relocated to a bigger site in Moosacher Strasse in North Nuremberg. 1997 The Staedtler Foundation, a non-profit Noris Club colouring pencils organisation that holds all shares in the Staedtler group, was set up. 2011 The Staedtler Triplus 426 retractable ballpoint Staedtler Warrior Patta footware, 2011 pen won a Red Dot Design Award. 2012 Staedtler’s annual sales of wood-cased pencils reached 65 million, including 33 million yellow- and-black Noris pencils.22
  • 23. Did you know?One of these pencil stories wants to lead you astray.* 1. n 2011, Staedtler’s I 3. Staedtler has 5. isitors to its V 6. he reason why T turnover was £220m. developed an factories are not Staedtler can claim The company has no anti-break system allowed to see the to be more debt and is reluctant for its coloured production line environmentally ever to borrow, pencils which it where the friendly is that it preferring to invest claims has boosted WOPEX pencil uses mashed-up profits in expansion sales. The extra is manufactured. wood in its pencil programmes thus, coating around the manufacture. This growing more slowly, pencil stops them enables roughly but sustainably. breaking when 80% of every tree sharpened. to be used rather than the 20% which 2. ohannes Bell and J is the norm in most Hermann Müller 4. n advert for A pencil manufacture. signed the Treaty Staedtler shows an of Versailles for actor playing Albert Germany using Speer arriving at Staedtler pens. Adolf Hitler’s office. The treaty was He says, ‘I only came so despised within to see your Staedtler,’ Germany, the but Hitler snaps it in company actively two and drops it to sought to suppress the floor. this information. it’s bogus in the first place. Number two is untrue. *No need to suppress that Treaty of Versailles story as 23
  • 24. HermèsUncompromising on quality as well as price, luxury goodsmanufacturer Hermès is proof that there is more than oneway for a company to make itself recession proof. Still familyrun and still employing individual craftsmen to make luxuryluggage items in their entirety, Hermès stands apart from allaccepted wisdom about mass production. It successfullycaters for that small (but sizeable) elite that never need tosee the price tag.Here’s a brand that creates desire beyond reason, That lovely word ‘atelier’ comes to mind:yet succeeds through rigorous control of its craftsmen and women in workshops using theproducts as much as through emotional flights best materials and the best (often very traditional)of fancy. A brand famous for maximalist scarves methods, and hang the expense.and, conversely, its super-simple, but highly prized These skills are put at the service of ‘art’ –boxes. A brand continually innovating, while also from the stunning scarf designs to the bonkersremaining somehow faithful to its traditional roots. shop windows and the ultra-contemporaryA brand with a cutting edge aesthetic, yet one that homeware. In Britain we might say that qualityyour granny would love to wear. In short, with should be known, not shown. In Europe it’s both,Hermès, the relationship between design and with knobs on. The marriage of art and craft –business has some inherent contradictions, is this not what all great design strives to be?but it all works beautifully. Eye-watering prices, offered without a blink, simplyPerhaps it successfully embraces contradiction compound the impression of excellence. SAbecause all its designs share two fundamentalqualities: skill and art. On the one hand, this isa brand of craftsmanship, from the high-end-saddle making to the ‘hand rolled’ hems of itsscarves. As with a fine Cuban cigar, one knows‘it’s the best’.24
  • 25. 25
  • 26. Timeline 1837 Thierry Hermès established an elite harness workshop in the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris. Satyr-winged saddlebag 1880 Thierry’s son Charles-Émile Hermès branched out into saddlery and relocated the shop to Hermès wallet 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains today. 1918 Thierry’s grandson Émile, noting the advent of the motor car, changed the firm’s direction toward the production of luggage. Hermès scarf 1935 The company introduced a leather Sac à Depêches, later known as ‘the Kelly bag’ after Grace Kelly held it in front of her in a 1956 photograph to hide her pregnancy. Hermès gift boxes 1937 Silk scarves were introduced. 1999 The company acquired a 35% stake in the Jean-Paul Gaultier fashion house. Advertising, China 2012 Hermès celebrated its 175th year in business with a London exhibition called ‘Leather Forever’.26
  • 27. Did you know? There’s fabrication afoot in the following.*Hermès flagship store Tokyo, 2011. 1. ne Hermès scarf, O 3. n 1918, Hermès I 5. ctress and throaty A 6. African dictator, normally costing brought out the chanteuse, Jane Mobutu Sese Soko, between £230 and first leather golfing Birkin, helped once bought the £500, is sold every jacket with a zipper. Hermès develop entire contents of 30 seconds. The a handbag after a a Parisian Hermès Carré, as it’s known, conversation with outlet and was famously used Jean-Louis Dumas threatened to kill by actress Sharon 4 . y the mid-90s, B when she the manager. He Stone for a bondage Jean-Louis Dumas complained that was subsequently scene in Basic Instinct. and all the Hermès her ‘Kelly bag’ banned for life from family were on the was not practical. all Hermès stores. Forbes ‘List of However, she Billionaires’. apparently no 2.The original Hermès longer uses a Birkin box was cream- herself as she coloured with gilded believes it gave edging. Shortages her tendonitis. during the war forced the company to use the only plain paperboard available – which happened to be the now legendary orange. but number six is 100% fake. *Don’t let the cat out of the hand-tooled bag, 27
  • 28. MoleskineMoleskine notebooks might have a slightly fanciful history,but what sustains them in the present and underpins thecompany’s success is that they represent a little piece ofaffordable luxury. They elevate any piece of writing (even if itis just a shopping list) into something a little more pleasurableand, dare we say it, sensual. If that puts us a little closer toour inner Picasso or Wilde, where’s the harm in that?Moleskine gave the archetype of an artist’s journal Seeing it adopted by the world of businesssolid form, reviving a traditional format and serving meetings rankled with me. It seemed vaingloriousit up as a definitive classic. to suggest that notes from a dreary meeting might follow in the footsteps of Hemingway.The design’s detailing transformed a fancifultale of artistic provenance into a real brand. So I applaud the brand for also producingThe paper quality, the elasticated binding, the ribbon humbler card-covered versions for these morebookmark and the inside pocket discreetly holding prosaic occasions. These ‘basic books’ havea slip of paper (on which the brand’s back story beautiful detailing. They show design can be aboutis told) all helps to convince us this is the real deal. quality that is known, not flaunted. Moleskine’s recognition as a status symbol has been achievedThese touches got the brand stocked in and through design understatement – be it in theassociated with all the right places. This took it boardroom or the backpack. SAfrom an arty niche to mainstream success. As withFilofaxes in the 1980s, plonking one down on ameeting table became a display of one-upmanship.As an early user I took the original leather-boundversion backpacking, using it for its stated purpose– as a notebook for jottings and drawings. Therobust design endured myriad climates and muchbashing about, becoming a treasured companion.28
  • 29. Illustration by Raúl Gómez. 29
  • 30. Timeline 1986 Writer Bruce Chatwin immortalised the name Moleskine in his book The Songlines, which later inspired the resurrection of the brand. Van Gogh sketchbook, c.1890 1996 Milanese publisher Modo Modo trademarked the Moleskine name. Production began in China and the notebook was hand-finished in Italy before hitting the market the following year. Moleskine designer Marti Guixe 2004 Photographer Armand Frasco started the fan site Moleskinerie.com. It went on to attract 5,000 visitors a day and Moleskine adopted the site as its official blog. Moleskine City notebooks 2006 Modo Modo was bought by an investment fund for €60m. The business was renamed under the Moleskine brand name. 2008 Limited-edition Lego Moleskine Moleskine America Inc was established, with headquarters in New York. 2010 Moleskine released a limited-edition range featuring Pac-Man to celebrate the video-game Moleskine iPad iPhone covers character’s 30th anniversary. Other special editions have featured Peanuts, Star Wars and artwork by film director Tim Burton.30
  • 31. Did you know?The veracity of one of these facts is paper-thin.* 1. n 2010, Moleskine I 3. odo Modo’s M 5. oleskine notebooks M 6. Each Moleskine had a turnover of co-owner, are ranked at notebook has £161m. It has grown Francesco Number 122 on an individual by 25% every year Franceschi, has the satirical blog, ID number. from 2006 onwards. conceded that Stuff White People Moleskine’s claims Like. ‘It’s a good of an authentic rule of thumb,’ 2. he first Moleskine T artistic heritage are the blog notes, notebooks were a fabrication. ‘It’s ‘that white people produced with an exaggeration,’ like anything that taupe-coloured he admitted to the old writers and pages, partly as a New York Times, artists liked: play on words ‘It’s marketing, not typewriters, journals, because taupe is science. It’s not the suicide, heroin and French for mole. absolute truth.’ trains are just a few examples.’ 4. here is no official, T accepted way to pronounce Moleskine. have taupe-coloured pages. So number two isn’t true. *Taupe is French for mole, but original Moleskines did not 31
  • 32. illyNot every luxury brand can justify its price, but family-run illy,purveyors of premium coffee for three generations, can pointto several good reasons for charging more than most. It paysits suppliers more, is more exacting in its standards anddelivers a better and more consistent taste than its rivals.Simple, really.As a coffee-lover, it’s a treat to write about illy. There are no ‘bum notes’ – even the sugar sticks lookFresh and friendly, but possessing an extra shot like they’ve been loved. Product details and otherof Italian sophistication, it is the definitive article. information keep a respectful distance from the logo, which is always set elegantly on white or silver.So what does illy teach us? Above all else, it is So, wherever you see it, illy appears loud and proud.a masterclass in how to leverage a logo. The redmark is brazenly stamped on anything and Lastly, the logo always seems to be in good company.everything: cups, awnings, ashtrays and any other Be it the sleek metal tins or the quirky espressosurface that can be found. Its signage epitomises cups, everything tells you that illy is mighty finethis approach – treated reverently, like a flag, coffee. Speaking of which, it might just be timeensuring you can’t miss it. for a cup… JJThere are three reasons why illy has made thissimple strategy work so well. First, the brand hasa really likeable logo at its heart. The typographyis brimming with personality and housed by thebright-red background, it puts a spring in yourstep before you’ve even taken a sip. Second,it is consistently executed with care.32
  • 33. 33
  • 34. Timeline 1995 Andrea Illy co-authored Espresso Coffee: the Chemistry of Quality, about the science and technology of coffee. illy espresso cup saucer 1996 Artist James Rosenquist designed the red square illy logo, which is still used across the brand’s products. illy FrancisFrancis! X1 espresso machine 2000 The University of Coffee was created. It has taught coffee culture, from bean to cup, to the 5,000 students who have attended to date. 2003 The company launched Espressamente illy, ‘Galleria illy’ advertising a chain of Italian-style bars with innovative design concepts. 2005 illy opened its first gallery in the SoHo district of New York City, displaying work from leading international artists and design students. Alioum Moussa ‘All create together’ can 2009 illy partnered Coca-Cola to launch a ready-to- drink coffee range, called illy issimo. ‘Galleria illy’, London34
  • 35. Did you know? One of these leaves the bitter aftertaste of deceit.*The illy Art Collection featuring designer espresso cups, 2010. 1. n 1991, illy began I 3. lly was the first i 5. Andrea Illy, boss 6. he illy logo was T a competition company to sponsor of the company, painted by the pop to find the best the Italian national disagrees strongly artist, James growers of sun- football team. with Fairtrade: Rosenquist. It dried arabica in ‘Our doctrine is was originally part Brazil. The prize that we will pay of a bigger painting for the winner 4. n 1988, illy I more for better which hangs in was to become its introduced a quality. Fairtrade Andrea Illy’s office. supplier. illy doesn’t computerised is about paying a use middlemen system for checking higher price for the and it pays every individual same goods. That is Brazilian farmers bean which rejects against the laws of the difference. those which don’t supply and demand.’ meet its rigorous selection criteria. 2 . s well as its A famous coffee, the illy group also produces teas, chocolate, jam and wine. *All truth has been filtered from number three. 35
  • 36. PlaymobilThere is something joyous about a company succeedingwhile resisting the lures of movie tie-ins and merchandisingopportunities. Instead, Playmobil has put its faith in children’simaginations. The German company has not only shunnedthe advances of movie franchises, but even dares not togive its creations real names, lest it should discouragechildren from coining their own.When one trots out clichés about the Germans, Civilisation is a result of our mastering of toolsgreat toymaking is not top of mind. But they do and our imaginative application of them. With theexcel at it, with a tradition for making things very, learning tool that is Playmobil, whole civilisationsvery well. can be made in microcosm. Children can create and order their own particular universe, learningPlaymobil is a case in point. On one level, we see about how everyone can play their part and howcharming little characters inhabiting a jolly place, everything connects. No small achievement fortheir adventures played out under the packaging’s little toys that can be bought for almost pocket-blue skies. Nothing too dark is likely to happen. money prices.However, one look at the design blueprintsreveals a totally considered product – Garish ‘cross-platform digitally interfacing’ergonomically, aesthetically and conceptually. successes such as Moshi Monsters and Skylanders are likely to make Playmobil reflect on how itThe folk are designed to fit into a child’s hand. might evolve and stay relevant. I hope not –Robust and collectable, it’s the interchangeable I think its own little world suits it just fine. SAnature of the little characters’ costumes and propsthat is the design’s stroke of genius. There is everychance a pirate might swap his cutlass for a baby’sstroller or his tri-cornered hat for a constructionhelmet. He may even end the day a princess.36
  • 37. 37
  • 38. Timeline 1954 Horst Brandstätter joined the family company started by his grandfather in 1876. He moved into manufacturing plastic goods; its first Playmobil Cowboy set success was the hula hoop. 1973 Hans Beck created Playmobil for Brandstätter. Playmobil Adventure Brachiosaurus 1976 The first female figures were introduced. 2003 Playmobil celebrated its 30th birthday. A golden knight toy was produced to mark the occasion. Playmobil Dad’s BBQ 2006 Playmobil figures gained articulated feet in honour of the World Cup. Playmobil Pizza Guy 2011 Playmobil achieved turnover of €564m. Playmobil Speckled Horse38
  • 39. Did you know? ‘Shiver me timbers!’ Lurking among these is a lie that would make a posable pirate blush.*Image courtesy of Mark Wilson. 1. nusual Playmobil U 3. n Spain, Playmobil I 5. arketed under the M 6. Joy Division’s sets which have been is produced under title ‘Gaymobil’, September 1979 released include: a licence by the toy it’s possible to buy appearance on Knife-Throwing company, Famosa. a set of Village Something Else Circus Act, a Vulture It is marketed as People Playmobil performing Cow Carcass, a ‘los clicks de comprising: a ‘Transmission’ has Hazardous Materials Famobil’ with male construction worker, been recreated in Clean-up Team and dolls known as a Native American, stop-motion an Axeman. ‘clicks’ and females a cowboy, a animation with as ‘clacks’. policeman, a sailor Playmobil characters. and a motorbiker. 2. n April 1st 2011, O the ThinkGeek 4. Japan boasts toy website released figures similar to a spoof Playmobil those made by version of an Apple Playmobil and Store, released ‘to known as Kubricks, introduce children named in honour of to the magic the late film director. of Apple’. it does not sadly exist in reality, making a liar of number five. *Although a spoof version of said Village People exists on the internet, 39
  • 40. CitroënDogged by financial problems for much of its existence,Citroën has nevertheless survived and prospered in the21st century. While the nostalgic might argue it has sacrificedquirkiness for the safety of the middle market, it remains aflagship of French technical expertise.Name a car that epitomises French style. How about Citroën has not always been so happy. Withthe Citroën 2CV? Or the DS? To create a vehicle weak cost management, its avant-garde designsthat defines a national character is quite something. necessitated high prices and after the marketTo do so a second time, from the opposite end weakened due to the 1973 oil crisis, the companyof the market, is a remarkable achievement. went under. Rescued by Peugeot, Citroën was left to pursue diluted designs built on shared components.As designers, we regularly glean the germ ofour most successful ideas from the subtext in the However, mass mediocrity is ultimatelybrief. The 2CV, for example, took its inspiration unsustainable without cost-leadership. We shouldfrom the desire to ‘provide the peasantry with draw inspiration from Citroën’s recent success ina motorised alternative to the horse, capable of commanding higher prices following its returntransporting a tray of eggs over cobbled roads’. to more progressive design with the new-look DSThe resulting suspension had the travel of a coil- range. AKspring mattress.The aerodynamic DS was conceived in secretduring the latter years of the Germanoccupation. It was deliberately designed toreassert French pride and became so closelyassociated with General de Gaulle, it must havebeen created for him. Sadly, however, the story of40
  • 41. 41
  • 42. Timeline 1923 A Citroën 5CV became the first car to be driven around Australia. The original vehicle, restored and in working order, is now owned by the National Museum of Australia. Eiffel Tower sponsored by Citroën, 1925 1925 Founder André-Gustave Citroën advertised the company by putting its name in lights across the Eiffel Tower. The sign remained there until 1934. Advertising, 1960s 1937 Pierre-Jules Boulanger became president of Citroën and a year later joint managing director of Michelin. Citroën 2CV, 1979 1961 Flaminio Bertoni designed his last car, the Ami 6. Though no match for the 2CV and DS 19, elements influenced 1960s car design. Citroën C1 Airplay, 2006 1974 Peugeot acquired a stake in Citroën, increasing it to a majority shareholding two years later, creating the PSA Group – later renamed PSA Citroën DS3 Racing car, 2011 Peugeot Citroën. 2009 Celebrating its 90th anniversary, Citroën refreshed its brand with an updated logo and new slogan, ‘Créative technologie.’ It also introduced a premium car range, bringing back the DS name.42
  • 43. Did you know? One of these car facts is definitely a ringer.*Citroën Metropolis concept car, 2010. 1. he first motorised T 2. French President, 3. Although seemingly 5. he Citroën logo T crossing of the Charles de Gaulle ill-equipped to star in of two inverted ‘V’s Sahara desert, from was travelling in a car chase, a Citroën is actually a graphic Algiers to Timbuktu, an unarmoured 2CV featured in representation of was undertaken Citroën DS (The arguably the most a herringbone in December 1922 by Goddess) when memorable scene gear-wheel design, a convoy of Citroën he survived an in 1981 Bond film, reflecting the fact Half Tracks assassination For Your Eyes Only, that early Citroën (Autochenilles). attempt in the when it provided models used a It took 21 days Parisian suburb an unlikely means herringbone bevel to complete the 2,000 of Petit-Clamart of escape for gear final drive in mile expedition. in August 1962. Roger Moore. the rear axle. De Gaulle attributed his survival to the 4. Dusseldorf electro 6. y the end of its first B unique suspension pioneers, Florian day on display of the car which Schneider and Ralf at the Paris motor enabled it to escape Hütter of show of 1955, a at full speed despite Kraftwerk, both staggering 12,000 having two tyres collect Citroën people had paid shot out. The HY vans. deposits to own the attempt was new Citroën DS. recreated in the opening scene of The Day of *Zut alors! Nombre four is built on a chassis of deceit. the Jackal. 43
  • 44. Roberts RevivalThere’s a good chance that a Roberts radio played a part inthe formative memories of many a baby boomer. Its renaissance,in the form of the Roberts Revival, has in part been driven bythat generation’s delight in being able to purchase a part of itschildhood. True to its pioneering spirit however, Roberts hasbeen reborn by embracing change rather than simply appealingto nostalgia. It is proof that modern technology fused withclassic design is a potent combination in any era.Today the idea of a radio that does only radio is, offer. It means they should retain relevance longarguably, an anachronism. Roberts was part of after the vintage fad has faded and the ‘Keep calm’broadcasting when ‘wireless’ didn’t mean streaming poster has been removed from the kitchen wall.audio via a PC. Nevertheless, the Roberts Revival Roberts still looks stylish because its compact,is a good example of a particular kind of ‘vintage’ simple form followed function. If it had reallydesign; it’s progressive retro. Which is to say it embraced the design fashions of the time it mightmight look as ‘home and hearth’ as a brown have aged less successfully. Today there are plentyteapot, but under the skin it’s bang up-to-date. of funky modern alternatives around, but I suspectTrying to switch on an internet-linked model your PC will be obsolete or look old-fashioned farat a pal’s house recently, the minimal buttons quicker than a Roberts. SAproved too modern for me to figure out myselfand I had to ask for help. It might look old enoughfor a free bus pass, but I was the one left havinga ‘senior moment’. Roberts still has a twinkle inthe eye and contemporary engineering inside.Being progressive retro puts it in good designcompany, alongside the Aston Martin DBS, theCoke Classic aluminium bottle, Gucci by Gucciand suchlike. These are brands using nostalgia thatalso have an ‘of-the-moment’ quality or product44
  • 45. 45
  • 46. Timeline 1940 Harry Roberts received a letter telling him the Queen had personally purchased a Roberts M4D model in the radio department of Harrods. Advertising, 1951 1959 Roberts modified one of its existing sets at the request of St John’s College, Cambridge, for a battery-powered shortwave radio to take on an expedition to Colombia. Roberts R505 1961 The company produced a special-edition, solid-gold-cased radio. The publicity stunt attracted worldwide attention when it was stolen from a department store. ‘The Digital Radio Collection’ 1969 Harry Roberts died and was succeeded by his son, Richard, as chairman and managing director. 2000 A special edition ‘Revival’ was created for the Queen Mother to commemorate her 100th birthday. Cath Kidston Roberts 2012 The brand marked its 80th anniversary with a red, white and blue range celebrating the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. Swarovski Roberts46
  • 47. Did you know? One of these is broadcasting on FM (Flagrantly Mendacious).*Jack Train (ITMA’s Colonel Chinstrap) drawing the crowds at Earls Court in 1956. 1. oberts launched the R 3. or many years F 4. n the company’s I 5. Roberts is the only first solar-powered Roberts radios were earliest days, company permitted DAB radio. the only type of founders Harry to engrave BBC transistor allowed in Roberts and Leslie World Service UK prisons as their Bidmead were on its products. cases could be easily offered a free 2. The Roberts Sports removed in any weekend in a hotel 984 radio was the search for in Cornwall if world’s first 3-band contraband. The they could 6. Canadian singer- personal stereo and 1975 Rambler 2 demonstrate that songwriter, Robbie was designed model was even one of their radios Robertson and the primarily with designed with the would work there. late broadcaster, cricket-lovers in prison population Robert Robinson, mind as it was in mind. both featured in capable of picking advertising for up Test Match Special Roberts radios in which was then the 1970s. broadcast on Long Wave. 1970s ad campaigns, making number six the all-too-obvious fib. *Band frontmen and combed-over quizmasters played no part in the company’s 47
  • 48. MTVWhen MTV has been at its most successful, the hair displayedon its screens has always been big. From the luxurious manesof the New Romantics to the backcombed edifices witnessedon Jersey Shore, coiffures of magnitude have served as abarometer to the station’s fortunes. That the barnets inquestion no longer have anything to do with music mightalso be significant.Through MTV’s formative decade, its logo acted ‘The MTV generation’ defined an entire era andas a canvas for the whims of generations of when a design helps put your brand at the heartdesigners, as it was constantly reinterpreted of popular culture, success will surely follow.and played with. Unlikely to win a typographic That was then. Look on YouTube for compilationsbeauty contest, the design instead developed a of MTV idents. They predate the current approach,big personality. Like one famous early version, which is telling. The logo remains, but it’s lessplanted by an astronaut on the moon, it was a spirited and colourful. It was a creative springboard;pioneer. The design application’s kinetic exuberance now it’s a corporate anchor. It makes strategicwas a fantastic complement to the shouted slogan sense, as the brand has diversified, and the less‘I want my MTV’; it looked like a cheery yell. soulful expression seems fitting for the home ofAs a design lesson it was proof that the medium Jersey Shore. We get the designs, culture and mediacan be the message. What I mean is that the we demand. SAmyriad funky ways in which it was expressed madeit visually reflective of the channel’s fast-cut videocontent. It defined the style of the ‘video age’as much as represented it. Which came first, thewonky claymation versions of the logo, or thevideo for Peter Gabriel’s ‘Sledgehammer’?48
  • 49. 49
  • 50. Timeline 1989 The world premiere of Madonna’s ‘Like A Prayer’ video aired on the channel. 1989 MTV Unplugged aired for the first time, showcasing acoustic performances from acts such as Nirvana and LL Cool J. 1992 Presidential candidate and Arkansas governor Bill Clinton answered young people’s questions in the first of MTV’s Choose Or Lose forums covering politics. 2000 Comedy show Jackass debuted on the channel, produced by Johnny Knoxville, Jeff Tremaine and director Spike Jonze. 2002 The world’s first celebrity reality TV show, The Osbournes, was broadcast by MTV. 2009 Jersey Shore became the number-one show on US TV and MTV’s most successful series yet in terms of ratings. 2011 Mike Judge’s Beavis and Butthead returned to MTV. It initially ran from 1993 to 1997.50
  • 51. Did you know?One of these is to truth what Jersey Shore is to reality. And truth.* 1. he first words heard T 3. uring a mid-90s D 5. ussell Brand was R 6. he last book Gore T on MTV, spoken by slump in the sacked from his job Vidal completed John Lack, were: channel’s fortunes, at MTV when he before his death in ‘Ladies and The Simpsons turned up to work 2012 was A Shore gentlemen, mocked it by having dressed as Osama Thing written by rock and roll!’ Bart write on his bin Laden on Snooki from MTV’s chalkboard, September 12th reality show, ‘I no longer want 2001. He has since Jersey Shore. 2. MTV show, Beavis my MTV.’ presented both the and Butthead, was channel’s music and accused of inspiring video awards. a series of arson 4. Ex-Monkee, Mike incidents because Nesmith, is seen by of children imitating some as the Beavis and his ‘hot godfather of MTV love for fire’. Beavis because he is partly modelled produced a half- on Barry Manilow. hour pilot for a music video show, Popclips. He had the option of shares in the fledgling MTV but opted for a flat fee instead. joined the choir invisible without having sampled the delights of Snooki’s magnum opus. *Heaven forfend that number six should be true! As far as we know, Gore Vidal 51
  • 52. Paul SmithBig in Japan and thriving in most other parts of the world,Paul Smith has been the most visible face of British fashionon the international stage for the past 30 years. In that time,Smith has cultivated an instantly recognisable but never clichédbrand of tailoring that has reflected the classic British look witha twist, which has been his signature from his earliest days.That the man has the same near-universal appeal as hisbrand only makes the success more deserved.‘I give classics just a little kick,’ says the great man, The brand’s design is also about the judicious useand that pretty much sums it up; but Paul Smith is of contrasts: those lairy, stripy colours are set offbeing rather modest. That ‘kick’ works only because by the dark wood floors; the flash of colour on aof the quality of the design and manufacture, and buttonhole is set against a dark grey suit. For weresonates only because it has a genuine sense of repressed chaps stuck with sludgy or monochromespirit, rather than being something ‘bolted on’. wardrobes, all those bright stripy accessories deliver the equivalent of a pick-n-mix sugar rushPaul Smith’s work feels like the output of an to a five-year-old.enthusiast – from the playful windows to thecurating of various art books and objects at the Some brands have consumers; Paul Smith tendsback of the shops. One gets a sense of genuine to have fans. A case of getting back what you give,pleasure being taken. You can’t fake this stuff: perhaps? Now, if he could only give an occasionalwhen it’s real you can almost smell it. My art teacher ‘little kick’ to his sometimes snooty staff, life wouldin the brand’s Nottingham hometown was flown be sublime. SAto Tokyo in the 1980s to paint a trompe l’oeil £5 noteon the floor of the brand’s flagship store. That’spretty bonkers in purely business terms, butsuccess can fall out of such a spirit.52
  • 53. 53
  • 54. Timeline 1970 Smith opened his first shop, in Nottingham. 1976 Paul Smith in his Nottingham store, 1970s First London shop opened in Floral Street, Covent Garden. 1991 Paul Smith received the British Designer Paul Smith Mini Cooper for Industry Award and launched his childrenswear range. 1993 Launched accessories range and the first Paul Smith Women collection. ‘Is that a Paul Smith coat?’ 1995 The company was awarded The Queen’s Award for Industry for export achievement. 2000 Paul Smith received a knighthood. Bertram chair, Paul Smith 2006 Licensee Itochu bought 40% of the business. Paul Smith patchwork shoes, 2009 2011 Paul Smith received Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design accolade at the British Fashion Awards.54
  • 55. Did you know?The truth has been materially altered in one of the following.* 1. he knighthood T 3. fter making an A 5. In 2001, in 6. n 1976, Smith I given to Paul Smith off-the-cuff remark recognition of his needed £30,000 to was only the second about rabbits long-standing love buy his first premises ever given to a bringing him good of the comic, The on Floral Street in designer, the first luck, Smith has Beano featured Paul Covent Garden from being the Queen’s found that he is Smith as a designer a retired baker. His dressmaker, sent between 10 visiting the Bash bank manager at Hardy Amies. and 20 rabbit- Street School and Barclays wouldn’t themed gifts from lecturing the kids lend him anything around the world in Class 2B. – ‘he didn’t like the 2. mith published his S every week. fact that I had long first book in 2001. hair and a red scarf.’ Entitled, You Can But he scraped Find Inspiration in 4. he rent on T together £20,000 and Everything, it was Paul Smith’s first the baker let him described by Smith boutique in have it for £25,000. as his ‘brain on Nottingham, Paul the page’. Smith Vêtement Pour Homme, was 50p a week. The shop was scented with Christian Dior Eau Sauvage to mask the smell of he has not featured in an episode of The Bash Street Kids. his Afghan hound. *Sorry reader, but while Paul Smith does indeed love The Beano, 55
  • 56. Yorkshire TeaIt used to be the case that you had to be born in Yorkshireto play cricket for the county. While that tradition haselapsed, a similar sense of regional pride infuses the marketingand promotion of this brand. Somehow, it has managedto attract rather than alienate those born outside God’s OwnCountry. It helps that the product is very good and that everybag makes two cups of tea, a trait which appeals to the cost-conscious everywhere.Yorkshire Tea’s pastoral packaging captures The Royal Crest almost goes unnoticed, perhapsour idealistic image of England, the ‘green because we wouldn’t necessarily associate it withand pleasant land’ in William Blake’s Jerusalem such a grounded brand; but if there was anyand where Danny Boyle transported us at the start doubt whether this is real English tea, it’s a finalof the London 2012 opening ceremony. It’s the seal of authenticity.image that comes to mind when you’re far from True to its roots, Yorkshire Tea provides a lessonhome and missing the old country. Comforting in being direct both in concept and execution.and familiar, just like a good cuppa. The vision of its creator, Charles Taylor, wasWhere other brands present our national drink simply to bring a little taste of Yorkshire to thewith some exclusivity and allude to its aristocratic rest of Britain. Michael Peters translated that ideadescent, Yorkshire Tea is democratised and down directly into a piece of distinctive design. Nowto earth – a brand for a nation of tea drinkers. that’s champion. JJThe name provides that assurance. No countyis perceived as being more honest or no-nonsensethan Yorkshire. The brand mark with its bold,sans serif type and slightly brash orange outlinerepresents this perfectly. As does the directness ofthe line ‘Let’s have a proper brew’. You can almosthear Geoffrey Boycott as you read it.56
  • 57. 57
  • 58. Timeline 1896 Charles Taylor won a gold medal at the London Grocery Exhibition for his tea blends. Advertising, 2005 1962 Bettys tea rooms and Taylors became one company. 1977 A tea blend was created and named Yorkshire Tea. Yorkshire Gold tea caddy 1984 Bettys Taylors advertised Yorkshire Tea on TV for the first time. Yorkshire Tea’s ‘Little Urn’ 2005 Yorkshire Tea replaced Typhoo as the third-most popular tea brand in the UK for the first time, behind Tetley and PG Tips. Yorkshire Tea loose leaf 2009 Taylors of Harrogate, including Yorkshire Tea, was awarded a royal warrant from Prince Charles for supplying his official London residence for five years. The brand was also praised by Noel Gallagher. The Yorkshire Rainforest Project, 2011 2011 The company appointed Andrew Baker as its chief executive, the first non-family member to hold the position.58
  • 59. Did you know?Geoff wouldn’t like it. One o’t following isn’t playing a straight bat.* 1. orkshire Tea Y 3. ettys Taylors B 5. orkshire Tea has Y 6. nspired by a 1990 I sponsored ITV’s have proved resilient also forged close episode of Blue Peter Heartbeat for three in the face of the links with Nick on the plight of the years from 1998 to recent economic Park’s Wallace rainforest, Bettys 2001. As the show downturn. 2011 Gromit. The Taylors began a promoted a cosy, figures showed company sponsors campaign of tree nostalgic view of turnover rising Wallace Gromit’s planting. Daniel Yorkshire, it was a by 16% to £102.8m Children’s Wild, son of the natural fit for the with profits rising Foundation which then chairman tea company. 21% to £9.4m. raises money for Jonathan, planted children’s hospitals the first tree outside and hospices. The Bettys tea rooms in 2 . ettys Taylors, B 4. n 2003, The I animated pair are Harrogate. Since the company which Apostrophe shown drinking then the company produces Yorkshire Protection Society Yorkshire Tea on has planted over Tea, was ranked awarded Bettys posters advertising three million trees 72nd in The Sunday Taylors one of their the event. and helped launch Times 2007 list famous Black the Yorkshire of the ‘100 Best Marks because of Rainforest Project. Companies To Work the lack of For’. It has featured apostrophes in the in the list for five company’s name. years in a row. matter how much pain said absence of punctuation might cause. Number four is a fib. *The Apostrophe Protection Society (yes it does exist) would never behave like that, no 59
  • 60. PezAs its William and Kate dispensers demonstrate, Pezcontinues to be up-to-date and on-message which isadmirable in an artefact edging towards its 90th birthday.Its position in popular culture is assured and its popularityis undiminished. Only one black mark: its mascot remains thescariest sweet-dispensing clown you could wish to see. It’scertain to give any child (and most adults) acute coulrophobia.It’s ironic that Pez was created to help adults stop The dispensing mechanism is actually a clever,smoking, because the product’s development over ergonomic design disguised as a bit of kitsch andsubsequent years provides a master class in how is the thing that gives Pez real personality. It’s alsoto appeal to children. the main reason the stick normally gets emptied in next to no time. The other reason is the reload;As the first brand to offer a sweet that doubles as filling up the chamber with more sweets makesa toy, it couldn’t really go too far wrong, especially you feel pretty sophisticated as a child, so it’swhen the sweets are almost incidental. With Pez, another good excuse to keep eating.the packaging is the product. As well as the circular satisfaction in consumingAs a child, it’s the character’s head at the top of the Pez, the countless editions mean they are alsodispenser, whether that be Mickey Mouse or Hello perfect for collecting. So, while the brand mightKitty, that has you tugging on your parent’s sleeve. have started out to cure one addiction, it hasTo the parent, it’s an almost equally easy sell – an surely replaced it with another. JJinexpensive way to give their child a little bit ofwhatever fad is ruling the playground. It alsoprovides them with some easy entertainment,because tipping back the head is a seriously funway to serve up a sweet.60
  • 61. 61
  • 62. Timeline 1927 Eduard Haas made the first Pez mints. They became popular among friends and family. 1948 Oscar Uxa designed the original Pez dispenser. 1952 A US subsidiary, based in New York City was set up to break the US market. A patent for its toy dispensers was obtained. 1991 The first Pez collectors’ convention was held in the US. 1993 Christie’s in New York held its first auction of pop-culture lots, including Pez products. 2011 A set of ‘William and Kate’ Pez dispensers was created to celebrate the royal wedding.
  • 63. Did you know? It’s an open-and-shut case. One of these is a fibbing falsehood.*Pez girl illustration by Gerhard Brause, 1950s. 1. o make a single T 3. amily Guy creator, F 5. ez authority, David P 6. ne of the rarest O piece of Pez candy Seth MacFarlane, Welch, was entered Pez dispensers in requires 3,000lbs of has said one of the into the 2000 and the world is a Monica pressure to compress few jokes he regrets 2001 editions of the Lewinsky edition the sugar into the making in the show Guinness Book of which was released familiar brick shape. features a young Records for selling and rapidly boy leaving a sweet three Pez dispensers withdrawn in 1998. shop with a JFK for $18,000. The 2. n the 1985 movie, I Pez dispenser only dispensers were a Stand By Me, Vern for a police sniper gold-plated Big Top (played by future Mr to blow its head elephant, a Rebecca Romijn, off. The boy then ‘softhead’ Mickey Jerry O’Connell) says, ‘Good thing Mouse and a declares, ‘If I could I still have my headless dispenser only have one food Bobby Kennedy bearing the words for the rest of my Pez dispenser.’ ‘PEZ-HAAS’. life? That’s easy. Pez. Cherry-flavoured Pez. No question 4. The Pez company about it.’ motto is, ‘A treat to eat in a puppet that’s neat.’ Since 1993, the Pez mascot has been the released. Nor did we ever say that was the case. clown, Peter Pez. *To reiterate. No Monica Lewinsky Pez dispenser was ever 63
  • 64. TomsThere’s always been a strong streak of philanthropy withinAmerican capitalism and Blake Mycoskie is at the cutting-edge of its latest incarnation with Toms and his One for Onepolicy. Since founding the company he’s been asked whyhe didn’t just set up a charity. But at heart, it’s clear Mycoskieis an entrepreneur and making money is what he doesbest. That he can turn that gift into goods for others trulyis a virtuous circle.The best design champions are not simply Second, the level of branding is pitched just right.celebrating themselves through outstanding On the shoes, the discreet flag does not screamcreativity or dazzling aesthetics. Rather, they put one’s claim to socially aware cachet. That woulddesign to work as a means to an end. be vulgar. But it is there to be seen, advertising one’s conscience. Otherwise, who would know?Toms champions something ‘beyond’: a mission;rather than just being champion in and of itself. The eyewear is, perhaps, becoming less subtle in its branding, reflecting a growing confidenceIt’s the good that the brand does that makes in the quality of its products.it a champ. Design, however, also plays its part.First, the not-insubstantial price tags are partly Toms has a good design that does good and makesjustified by nifty-looking products. I guess the us feel good by doing it. It starts with how designinsight is that, while we want to do good as can be a vehicle for an idea, rather than the ideaconsumers, many of us don’t want to feel that informing the design. It provides proof thatwe are buying ‘second best’ to do so. It takes aesthetics can be a source of brand values. SAsome skill to prevent a ‘vegan classic’ shoelooking how it does in the mind’s eye.64
  • 65. 65
  • 66. Timeline 2006 Blake Mycoskie took inspiration from the alpargata University Black Rope Sole shoe, which is worn across Argentina, to create Toms shoes and the One for One giving concept. 2007 Toms won the People’s Design Award from the Ash Indo Vegan Classic Smithsonian Institution’s Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum. 2009 Toms began the first ‘One Day Without Shoes’ Red Glitter shoe campaign to raise awareness of children worldwide who suffer from a lack of shoes. 2010 Tyler Ramsey Hand Painted shoe Toms celebrated donating its one millionth pair of shoes. 2012 The One for One concept has been expanded Navy Geometry Vegan Classic into an eyewear range. For every pair sold, Toms offers sight-saving or restoring treatment, surgery or prescription glasses to those without access to medical facilities. So far, 88,539 people have been treated. Toms eyewear66
  • 67. Did you know?One of these speaks with forked tongue.* 1. efore launching B 2. ithin five hours W 4. any pairs of M 5. lake Mycoskie’s B Toms, Blake of the first press Toms shoes have first business venture Mycoskie had coverage of Toms, been distributed was EZ Laundry, appeared with his via an article in the within the US a door-to-door sister on the US Los Angeles Times, itself, notably in laundry company reality show, The the company had parts of Louisiana, he launched while Amazing Race and sold 1,400 pairs Kentucky, Mississippi in college. visited Argentina. of shoes. and Florida. It was on a later visit to the country to play 6. Mycoskie was polo that he found 3. During U2’s ‘360°’ recruited by the inspiration to tour, Bono insisted Southern Methodist launch his company. that all band University to members wear Toms play tennis. shoes when playing gigs in South American and African countries. U2 band members. Number three is very much untrue. *With or without shoe, no such diktat was ever issued by Bono to fellow 67
  • 68. Pret A MangerIt takes self-belief for a British company to export the conceptof fast food back to the US, while also trying to tell the Frenchwhat to eat (in their native tongue no less). Pret A Manger’srecent international expansion has seen it accomplish both.Then again, Pret A Manger from its earliest days has neverlacked confidence, particularly in its belief that the Britishsandwich lover would pay more for a better butty anda quick, clean, chrome-heavy service.In terms of its performance as a design-driven Fair play to Pret for using design to face up toenterprise, Pret A Manger can proudly award itself younger competition. Brick and wood have helpedone of those solid-silver Tiffany stars it hands out the stores evolve beyond their original cold chrometo its most lauded staff. interior. The refurb encourages diners to stay awhile as the arrival of chatty packaging and witty graphicsEven if the posh-sounding foreign name, art deco gently move the brand toward a more foodie sentiment,font and burgundy star are a cliché, they succeed without being elitist. Maintaining popular appeal isin telling a simple story – that this is a fresh one of Pret’s enduring strengths and a prime factoralternative to shabbier sandwich shops, with in keeping the stores buzzing with activity.a bit more class. Although the business lost its way after a slightlySo we should be grateful for the impact Pret has hasty expansion to the US, it has recently foundmade on British high streets, raising the bar for its second wind. Goodness, it’s even openingestablished operators and attracting a fresh breed stores in France; how ironic is that? AKof quality rivals, such as EAT. It’s only been about25 years since the coffee and sandwich shoprevolution began, but we British can buy espressocoffee and interesting sandwiches almost anywherethese days.68
  • 69. 69
  • 70. Timeline 1992 Pret A Manger expanded with the addition of two shops in London. Avocado ears 2000 Co-founder Sinclair Beecham was awarded an MBE in the Queen’s Birthday Honours List for services to the catering industry. 2001 Lettuce chefs McDonald’s bought a stake in the business for £50m. Prets other co-founder Julian Metcalfe focused on the sushi chain Itsu, which he co-founded in 1997. Cheese dice 2003 Metcalfe and Beecham returned to day-to-day running of the chain owing to fears over the pace of expansion. The international arm of the business operated at a loss. 2008 The pair sold the business, handing over Baguette shoes management to a private equity firm and Goldman Sachs in a deal worth £350m. 2009 Tuna was banned from Pret’s menu because of concern over the unsustainable fishing practices used to catch it. Only pole- and line-caught tuna Coffee bird now sit on Pret’s shelves.70
  • 71. Did you know?One of these is a 100% organic, freshly made, free range, gluten-free lie.* 1. ret’s brownie recipe P 3.Pret employs 5. The company 6. 5% of Pret A 9 has been revised over mystery shoppers insists that any Manger stores give 30 times in pursuit of to maintain its disgruntled customers away unsold produce the perfect taste. standards of can air their at the end of the day service. If one of grievances directly to the homeless. these declares a with the top Although, ironically, 2. The company shop ‘outstanding’, management, the company’s name employs only one all employees get a including co-founder, is an anagram of person for every £1 an hour bonus Julian Metcalfe. ‘enrage tramp’. 14 applicants. Only for every hour 19% of its UK they have worked workforce were born that week (on in this country. Staff average, £50). turnover is 60% per annum compared to the fast food 4. Until 2008, all industry norm crayfish used in of 300-400%. Pret A Manger salads were supplied by the fish farm owned by The Who’s lead singer, Roger Daltrey. Pret’s crayfish, so number four is a falsehood. *Don’t get fooled again. Roger Daltrey has never supplied 71
  • 72. MonocleWhile everyone else predicts the death of magazines,Tyler Brûlé goes out and makes them. Monocle launchedinto a world which, supposedly, had moved on permanentlyfrom print media and would never tolerate an intelligentmixture of international affairs and fashion. Yet, nearly sixyears on, it appears to be proving the naysayers wrong.Brûlé also likes radio, another medium whose death hasbeen greatly exaggerated.For an object lesson in value creation, cast your eye To its business-travelling, tech-harassed readership,over Monocle. Positioned at the intersection of culture, Monocle provides a haven of calm, celebrating andaesthetics and ‘global affairs’, in contrast to glossy sharing indulgent pleasures to be taken at a slowerrivals like Vogue and the FT’s How to Spend It, Monocle pace. It’s only a temporary respite; the addiction tocelebrates a knowing, inconspicuous consumption. novelty of its always-connected, go-getting readers must also be catered to by streaming Monocle 24Showcasing thoughtfully designed goods and radio over the web.services from an international community ofsocially and environmentally sensitive artisans, Yet, we should suppress any latent cynicism.it’s a distinctive take on consumerism cogently By celebrating human craftsmanship as anexpressed by its design. antidote to mass production, Monocle is profitably evolving a print-based, multichannelCover images set against polished black, elegant business and encouraging the rich to progressserif typefaces and the three-column layout echo beyond shallow materialism by looking at thethe visual authority of the broadsheet press. While world through the prism of design. AKits matt paper, realistic photography and charminghand-drawn illustrations delight and flatter theintelligence of an affluent audience, who perhaps,aspire to connect with a less superficial lifestyle.72
  • 73. 73
  • 74. Timeline 2007 The name chosen for the title, The Edit, was already in use. Founder Tyler Brûlé and creative director Richard Spencer Powell came up with Monocle Live: Volume O1 Monocle, which sounded suitably old-fashioned and established. 2007 The Monocle podcast hit the top of the iTunes podcast chart, overtaking established media Delvaux newspaper bag brands such as the BBC and The Economist. 2007 Monocle’s first ‘Quality of Life: Most Liveable Cities Index’ was published, becoming an annual feature. Zurich was voted top in 2012, based on Limited-edition print criteria such as safety and quality of architecture. 2008 The title collaborated with Japanese fashion label Comme des Garçons to create its first fragrance. Moonstar slip-ons 2011 Online radio Monocle 24 launched through the Monocle.com website, iTunes and Monocle app. Monocle store, Hong Kong 2012 Monocle celebrated its fifth anniversary with a party in New York attended by the likes of designer Derek Lam, J.Crew chief executive Mickey Drexler and Martha Stewart.74
  • 75. Did you know? A one-eyed man could spot the lie among the following.*Monocle store, New York. 1. onocle creator, M 2. onocle’s 2012 M 3. yler Brûlé does T 6. Satirical blog, Being Tyler Brûlé, was ‘Quality of Life not tweet. Tyler Brûlé, pokes shot by a sniper in Index’ rating the 25 fun at the lifestyle of Afghanistan in 1994. most livable cities in the Monocle creator. During his the world doesn’t 4. Inspired by a Here’s a sample convalescence he contain a UK entry, chance encounter entry discussing came up with the idea while only Portland in Swiss Air’s the shortcomings for what would and San Francisco Heathrow lounge of Scandinavian become Wallpaper*. merit a rating from between Brûlé and Airlines’ 1st class the mainland US. its club chairman, hospitality: Unsurprisingly, Monocle are now the ‘Euphemisms will Switzerland and proud sponsors of never excuse inferior Scandinavia fare Featherstone Rovers bubbly. A simple rather better with rugby league team. Krug would suffice. Zurich grabbing the After all, what are top spot again. we – farmers?’ Monocle’s offices are based in London, 5 . Monocle’s shops in however. ‘Scandis are New York, Tokyo a bit too socialist,’ and Hong Kong Brûlé told The also double as Guardian, ‘The foreign bureaux maternity leave for the magazine. would kill us.’ four the ringer. Not in this lifetime, making number *Monocle sponsor Featherstone Rovers? 75
  • 76. MujiA stripped-down, no-frills, logo-free line of household andclothing essentials that makes a virtue of spending little onmarketing or conventional brand-building. Muji has grownfrom deliberately humble origins into an international retailsuccess story, without compromising its principles ofsustainability and simplicity. Whether one can say it isno longer a brand is another question entirely.As Leonardo da Vinci said: ‘Simplicity is the I wonder how many Western brands would adhereultimate sophistication.’ There is something slightly to their design philosophy so strongly, even if itmetaphysical about trying to pin down the branding meant missing a business opportunity? For Muji,lessons of ‘no-brand’ Muji, because, for all it says it seems, inaction speaks louder than words.about not being a brand, it is. There is a coherent, To return to the metaphysical question; is asystematic and simple design aesthetic. You can ‘no-brand’ offer, in its own way, still a brand?easily picture what a Muji notebook, car or coat Well, Muji was one jump ahead of Naomi Kleinwould look like – some branding achievement. with design that’s recognisably ‘Muji’, even ifThis simple but stylish approach offers good value you remove the logo. It understands that designto the consumer, as well as savings in production recognition is not skin- or label-deep. Its approachand logistics to the company. is more holistic. So, for me, it is the purest kindThe modesty and calmness of the brand’s of brand: one that requires no badge to be‘design philosophy’ is perhaps distinctive in the distinctive. SAWest because (against our typically more noisyapproach) it speaks softly. Muji shows thatan understated approach can have impact.This philosophy also seems to be strongly held– to the extent of Muji using famous designers,but keeping this information to itself (whenbroadcasting it would add short-term ‘heat’).76
  • 77. 77
  • 78. Timeline 1983 The first standalone Muji shop opened in the Aoyama area of Japan. Muji straws 1989 Muji transferred from original supermarket owner Seiyu to new company Ryohin Keikaku. 1998 Ryohin Keikaku listed on the second section of Muji CD Player the Tokyo Stock Exchange. From 2001 it moved into the first section. 2002 Expanding into the US, Muji was stocked in the gift shop of the Museum of Modern Art in New Muji store, New York York. Its wall mounted CD player also appears in MOMA’s art collection. 2010 Muji celebrated its 30th anniversary. Muji cardboard speakers 2011 The first Muji in Aoyama reopened as a concept store called Found Muji Aoyama, featuring products from different cultures around the world. Muji penguin skittles set78
  • 79. Did you know?One of the following facts has embraced a minimalist approach to the truth.* 1. hen Muji launched, W 3. uji has produced M 5. very year Muji E 6. uji itself expressed M The Face magazine a T-Shirt with a releases one its philosophy thus: likened it to ‘a kind rubber stamp on limited-edition ‘We would like our of funky Marks the chest which product with no customers to feel Spencer’. allows purchasers defined title or the rational sense to create their role and invites of satisfaction that own message. customers to comes not with, this 2. Muji customers suggest what is the best, but, this can help shape they use it for. is enough. Best the direction the 4. In summer 2012, becomes enough.’ company takes. Muji held a lottery Mujinet encourages in which the winner customers to will live rent-free be involved in for two years in a the consultation two-bedroom, process for a range Muji-built house of products. in Mitaka, Tokyo. The house will be furnished and stocked exclusively with Muji products. *Number five is an eco-friendly recycling of a lie. 79
  • 80. Sailor JerryNot all of adman Steven Grasse’s ideas would find favour withevery client – his use of serial killers to promote a clothingstore in Philadelphia was one to divide opinion. But Sailor Jerrywas an inspired way to launch a brand and reinvigorate amoribund area of the drinks industry. That it also spread thelegend of the tattoo artist formerly known as Norman Collinsto a new and wide audience was a very welcome benefit.The first lesson from Sailor Jerry’s success should Distribution in bars frequented by nonconformistsbe burned into the chip of all would-be innovators: and association with musicians outside thechallenge the assumptions. mainstream quickly brought Sailor Jerry enthusiastic converts more powerfully thanWhile most distillers chased growth in white spirits, mainstream advertising ever could.founder Steven Grasse put his energy into darkrum, just as the big money moved out. Sailor Jerry is a sobering reminder of what creativity can achieve when set free. It’s something smartHowever, it was the former ad agency-owner’s creative organisations like William Grant Sons appreciate,flair for branding and communication that make as they supplement internal innovation programmesSailor Jerry a true champion. with acquisitions from the unconventional pioneersAnd the foundations for its long-term success were rarely to be found within the corporate world. AKlaid by meticulous design.As a matelot-turned tattoo artist had lent hisnickname to the brand, the branding should evokehis story. A traditional whisky-style bottle witha striking seafarer’s tattoo design on its label catchesthe eye and nails its proposition as a brand forthose who are not slaves to fashion.80
  • 81. 81
  • 82. Timeline 1911 Norman Collins was born in California. He learned the art of machine tattooing from another legend, Gib ‘Tatts’ Thomas, in Chicago. Sailor Jerry ‘Rise and Shine’ 1930s Collins adopted the nickname Hori Smoku. Hori means ‘to carve’ and is a traditional surname of Japanese tattoo masters. 1973 ‘A Sailor’s Grave Art Show’ Following Collins’ death, the legacy of Sailor Jerry, including his Honolulu tattoo parlour and tattoo designs, was acquired by fellow artists Don Ed Hardy and Mike Malone. 1999 Steven Grasse, president of Philadelphia ad agency Quaker City Mercantile, acquired the rights Centennial celebration bottles to Sailor Jerry’s legacy from Hardy and Malone. 2008 UK distillery William Grant Sons bought all rights to the Sailor Jerry brand name. Converse All Star Sailor Jerry82
  • 83. Did you know?One of these is tattoo good to be true.* 1. orman Collins N 3. he business cards T 5. As well as launching 6. ue to a dispute D earned the ‘Jerry’ part which Sailor Jerry the Sailor Jerry with the IRS, Sailor of his nickname carried with him, brand, adman Jerry made no from his father, who simply read, Steven Grasse has tattoos from his 20s noticed a stubborn ‘My Work Speaks written a book to his late 50s. He side to his son’s For Itself.’ entitled, The Evil only tattooed for character. Hence, he Empire: 101 Ways 12 years of his life. was known as Jerry that England Ruined as that was the name 4. After becoming the World. of the family mule. friends with Gene Kelly, Sailor Jerry took a brief 2. hile living in W non-speaking role Hawaii, Sailor Jerry in the musical, had a talk radio On The Town. programme called Old Ironsides Hour broadcast on KGRT Honolulu, during which he liked to recite poetry. walk-on part in On The Town. Therefore, four is a fib. *There was no friendship between Sailor Jerry and Gene Kelly, thus no 83
  • 84. CohibaIt’s an irony regularly noted that a symbol of the Cubanrevolution should be synonymous with success and excessin a country where it’s banned. The US might have done allin its power to kill Castro and his revolution, but by banningCuban imports, it’s only succeeded in feeding the legendof Cohiba – ensuring it is regarded as the gold standardin the cigar world.Such an eye-catching, confident little design; It confidently symbolised the values of the newmonochromatic milling atop a bright yellow era, the triumph of the socialist movement, theground, an austere logotype relieved only by the rejection of traditional authorities of church andhumanity of the Taíno Indian cameo. For luxury state. In the process, it rendered capitalist Cubancigars costing £25 apiece, it appears to say very little cigar brands somehow alien.– yet what a story it can tell. If the political lesson to be drawn from CohibaIt was created in 1966, a year etched on our is that even humble packaging can be a catalystnational consciousness by sporting success, for social change, perhaps the business lessonwhen off the Florida coast an altogether more is that, should you wish to foment a revolution,ideological battle was being fought. Having initially brave design is your first weapon. AKmonopolised this special cigar, once Castro haddecreed Cohiba should henceforth be availableto all, he allegedly designed the packaging himself– and by so doing betrayed the passion of an iconoclast.By its spare, industrial nature, the design is theantithesis of the overdecorated, quasi-religiousregalia of its predecessors. No gold foil, nomedals, no sepia images, no Biblical metaphors.84
  • 85. 85
  • 86. Timeline 1966 The Cohiba cigar was created. 1972 Cohiba logo The Cohiba trademark was registered in Cuba. Later, it was trademarked in 115 other countries, excluding the US. 1982 Cohiba cigars became available outside Cuba for the first time. 1986 Fidel Castro in his cigar smoking days Cohiba’s biggest fan, Fidel Castro, gave up smoking. 1990 Cohiba manufacturer Habanos’ first international Cohiba Robustos retail outlet, La Casa Del Habano, opened in Cancún, Mexico. 2006 The limited-edition Cohiba Behike went on sale, priced £233. It was billed as the most expensive cigar ever made. Cohiba cigarettes 2011 Habanos’ total sales, including Cohiba, hit £228m. Behike limited-edition box86
  • 87. Did you know?One of these facts smoked once but did not inhale.* 1. hen Cohiba cigars W 2. he man who is T 3. ll Cohiba cigars A 5. he biggest export T were exported for the said to have rolled are rolled between markets for Cuban first time from Cuba the first Cohiba is the thighs of virgins. cigars in general, and in 1982 they were Avelino Lara. Cohiba in particular, only available He was the first are France, Spain and in three sizes: the director of the 4. The tobacco for then China. Panetela, the Corona El Laguito factory Cohiba cigars comes Especial (Fidel’s where Cohibas were from the heart of stogie of choice) made. He was the Vuelta Abajo, 6. he Cohiba cigar has T and the Lancero. recognised as one about 100 miles become a staple of In 1989, three more of the industry’s southwest of the rap lifestyle and sizes were added: experts before he Havana. Plantations is namechecked in the Robusto, the passed away in 2009 near the towns of numerous songs, Exquisito and the at the age of 88. San Juan y Martinez notably Lil Wayne’s Espléndido. and San Luiz are ‘Hustler Musik’ the most frequently which features the used suppliers, line, ‘Got me feeling but their exact like Scarface/Light location is a closely the Cohiba.’ guarded secret. a Cuban cigar factory in the 1940s, where he saw women with tobacco leaves on their laps and got slightly over-excited. *Number three is alas a long-standing myth, predating the Cohiba. It supposedly stems from a creative journalist’s visit to 87
  • 88. Chanel No 5Rarely can a product have established a stronger link withluxury and glamour than that enjoyed by this French scent.Its twin associations with haute couture and Hollywood’sA-list continue to ensure its leading position in the perfumemarket nearly a century after its launch, while its almostunchanging packaging and design make it as pleasing onthe eye as it is on the nose.What can we learn from this? What can’t we?! carefully controlled distribution and enrolment of enthusiastic sales assistants to her cause, herNo 5’s design epitomises the holy grail of ‘timeless work on No 5 is a text-book example of buildingclassic’. With its understated, form-follows- a luxury brand by word of mouth, managingfunction glass bottle, sensitively embellished with supply just behind demand – a case of using pullan oversized stopper and undersized seal, Chanel rather than push.sets the standard for the exercise of restraint. To thrive in the novelty-obsessed fragrance marketIn perfect harmony, the elegance of the mirrored for a decade is to be considered a survivor;‘C’ hallmark and its seamless connection to a to do so for 90 years, however, makes No 5simple, bold ‘CHANEL’ elevate No 5 to a thing a rare breed indeed. AKof such beauty it ‘feels like winning the lottery’to possess one. It has also provided inspirationto students of design for four generations.Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication, but greatdesign, no matter how seductive, cannot beresponsible for such commercial success by itself.Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel may have created the firstdesigner fragrance, but she wasn’t just a pretty face.From the discreet seeding of the product amongelite customers of her clothing boutiques, to the88
  • 89. Audrey Tautou for Chanel No 5, 2010.89
  • 90. Timeline 1910 Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel set up a millinery boutique, Chanel Modes. Vintage Chanel No 5 advertising 1921 Ernest Beaux presented her with a choice of a series of fragrances, numbered from one to five and 20 to 24. She picked No 5. 1924 The company was renamed ‘Parfums Chanel’ when Chanel entered a partnership with the Elizabeth Taylor for Chanel No 5, 1960s Wertheimer brothers. 1934 The more affordable flacon container was released to engage with the middle-class market. Catherine Deneuve for Chanel No 5, 1970s 1954 Marilyn Monroe said that all she wore to bed was Chanel No 5, subsequently boosting sales. 1959 A bottle of Chanel No 5 was included in the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The Secret of Chanel No 5, 2010 2012 Brad Pitt was named the new face of Chanel No 5, the first time a man has represented the fragrance. Brad Pitt for Chanel No 5, 201290
  • 91. Did you know? One of these should make you smell a rat.*Estella Warren for Chanel No 5, 2001. 1. s an orphan, raised A 3. hanel No 5 is C 4. he perfume was T 6. The perfume’s in a convent by nuns, known within the recreated from a creator, Ernest Coco Chanel was perfume industry scent known as Beaux, said that he taught to attach great as ‘le monstre’. ‘le bouquet de wanted Chanel No 5 significance to the A bottle of it is sold Catherine’ which to evoke the smell number 5, which every 30 seconds. had been made of snow and lichen assumed mystical to celebrate a in the Arctic where meaning for her. Romanov party he spent the final She always aimed in Russia in 1914. months of to release her new World War I. dress collections on the 5th of May. 5. When Channel 5 launched in 1997, it was forced to 2. t the end of World A change its original War II, worried ident which was about her alleged judged to be too collaboration with similar to the Chanel the Nazis, Coco No 5 logo. Chanel offered a free bottle of Chanel No 5 to all American GIs. *Number five (what else?) is a knock-off. 91
  • 92. JifThere’s something faintly absurd about placing artificial lemonjuice in a container that’s almost mistakably like a real lemon.No less odd is Jif’s continuing success when no chef in theland would recommend using artificial lemon juice rather thanthe real thing. It’s a simple design classic, a store cupboardstaple that gets one chance to shine every year and neverfluffs its lines.For all its curviness, the design of Jif draws the Jif is one of surprisingly few packaging classics straightest possible line from product to packaging. to straightforwardly borrow from nature. Generally, it seems we prefer our packaging to adapt or departOne lesson that we can take from Jif is that being from the natural world. The fact a real lemon is alsoobvious and direct is actually very powerful – pretty cheap (and is a hard design to improve on)the visual economy of packaging lemon juicein a lemon-shaped vessel gives it charm. It also suggests nature is a high benchmark to competeshortcuts any requirement from the busy shopper with. Perhaps, though, we might all aim to beto work out what this brand is selling. No need for a little more obvious and direct, like Jif ? SAsuperfluous words or graphics. Can you thinkof any other packaging that makes the contents soimmediately clear?The purity of this idea, though, exposed the brandto imitation and costly litigation. Perhaps addingone ‘twist’ to the lemon design might have turned anobvious idea into a more distinctive (and protectable)brand? One could argue that the pack is a noveltyand has limited its relevance to Pancake Day alone.Yet, as one-offs go, it is still some design – makingyour brand synonymous with a national event isquite an achievement.92
  • 93. Facts $250m The price that Unilever bought Reckitt Coleman’s food brands for in 1995, including Jif Lemon the Jif Lemon brand. 3,099,216 The number of Jif Lemons sold in 2011. 71% The percentage of Jif Lemon’s annual sales made over the Pancake Day period. 35 Advertising, 1970s Jif Lemon’s ranking in Marketing’s ‘Adwatch of the Decade’, measuring the most memorable ads of the 1990s. Jif Lemon miniature truck 273 The shelf-life of a Jif Lemon measured in days. Your 101 Best Jif Lemon Recipes, 1980 Advertising, 1990s94
  • 94. Did you know?One of the following lemon entries is not true, my dear Watson.* Advertising, 1966. 1. he makers of Jif T 2. wo tablespoons of T 4. if Lemon designer, J 5. n the run-up to I became embroiled Jif Lemon juice are Bill Pugh, had Shrove Tuesday, in a lengthy, and equivalent to the previously enjoyed 1985, Jif launched eventually juice from one success with a pink its most successful successful, court medium lemon. plastic teddy bear for ad campaign with case to prevent the dispensing Vinolia the tag line, ‘Don’t American company baby powder. He forget the pancakes Borden selling a later worked on on Jif Lemon Day.’ 3. eorge Melly, the G similar product in refining the look of late jazz singer, Britain. The court Action Man and always kept a bowl case would have designed dashboard of Jif Lemons in 6. lue Peter regularly B been a lot simpler air vents for Rolls the foyer of his used Jif Lemon had Jif been able to Royce which became London flat. containers in their register its lemon as industry standard. a trademark. craft projects, most However, because memorably as a rather it so closely bijou money box. resembles a real lemon, it was unable to do so as that would have prevented others from using the symbol of a lemon to sell lemons or *The wrong’un is number three. George Melly did many crazy things, but not this. lemon juice. 95
  • 95. HunterA gaggle of girls in distressed denim shorts and Hunters atGlastonbury. It’s as emblematic of British summertime ascelebs on Centre Court or moaning about A-levels. Strangethat a company which made its name on the battlefields ofWorld War should have had its crucial leg-up courtesy ofKate Moss and a ploughed field much closer to home.Can you name another brand of wellies? broader market – as the fuchsia boot with aOn the surface, Hunter boots are just like gloss finish would suggest. Royal crests haveany others, so how has the brand found itself long reassured us about quality, but it was fashionin a league of its own? The answer is that in royalty who convinced us that Hunter wasn’t justdesign, a little can go a long way. for the farm.As an agency, we preach about distinctiveness. A steady stream of new collections and collaborationsYet the only things that distinguish Hunter’s core with different designers demonstrate a willingnessproduct from its competitors are the logo and, to experiment around the edges. Hunter successfullyarguably, the buckle – though even that seems brings fashion to an inherently unfashionableto come as standard nowadays. There are some category. It is, however, the design discipline at thesubtle differences to the boot’s shape and tread, brand’s core that should ensure Hunter doesn’t slipbut the secret to Hunter’s success is that the up any time soon. JJquality is known, not shown. The logo is basicand utilitarian. It simply tells you that the bootswill do the job and keep the water out.The beauty of such a plain badge is that it’senabled the brand to have a chameleon-likeversatility. While its roots are definitely in thecountry, the brand now branches into a much96
  • 96. 97
  • 97. Timeline 1817 The Duke of Wellington asked his shoemaker to create a boot. The mid-calf leather footwear became known as the Wellington boot. Classic Hunters with socks 1918 By the end of World War I, the North British Rubber Company had produced more than 1.18 million pairs of boots for soldiers. Shoe production ran 24 hours a day. Hunter RHS, 2007 1955 The green Hunter boot was created, featuring a more ergonomic design. Sales were slow, but the style would later become a classic and is now known as the original Hunter. Hunter Water Aid, 2008 2005 The 50th anniversary of the Hunter was celebrated with a limited-edition range of seven brightly coloured boots, with proceeds going to seven charities. 2008 Hunter Jimmy Choo, 2009 The headquarters of the business moved from Dumfries back to Edinburgh, the original home of the North British Rubber Company. 2010 David Cameron bought pink and purple pairs of Hunter boots for his US trip, as gifts for Barack Hunter Union Jack edition, 2012 Obama’s daughters.98
  • 98. Did you know? More chance of seeing Kate Moss in Evans than finding truth in one of these.*The Queen (1967) Kate Moss (2011) in Hunters. 1 . The North British 3 . Hunter lost 5. Hunter’s plans to 6. Hunters feature Rubber Company £300,000 on sales launch a range of prominently in the which originally of £4.3m in 2006, ‘Nimrod’ boots in British sport of manufactured but four years later the US were swiftly ‘welly-wanging’. Hunter wellingtons made £16m profit curtailed when the The world record also produced golf on sales of £56m. company learnt of for throwing a balls until 1978. the word’s pejorative wellington boot is associations in 69 yards, two feet 4. s well as Kate A the States. and 10.89 inches Moss famously (all measurements 2 . ommenting on the C endorsing the have to be imperial). green welly brand at While the maximum phenomenon which Glastonbury, run-up allowed is took hold in the Hunter received a 42 paces, in tribute 1980s after Lady further boost when to the late Douglas Diana was seen Peter Mandelson Adams who was a wearing a pair of was seen wearing keen proponent of Hunters, the Sloane a pair of its costly the sport. Ranger Handbook author, Peter York French rival’s, noted, ‘London Le Chameau. Sloanes sprout green wellies in wet weather like a plague of frogs.’ *Fans of the truth should give number five the boot. 99
  • 99. WagamamaWhile Wagamama can take credit for giving most peoplein this country their first taste of ramen noodles, it achievedsomething far more revolutionary when it sold the Britishpeople the profoundly unsettling notion of sitting downto consume a meal next to strangers. For this sea changein our eating habits – along with speedy, PDA-drivenservice and steaming bowls of tasty goodness (quietlyconsumed to avoid the glare of that unfriendly personnext to us) – we salute it!The best ideas always appear obvious in retrospect. Secretly, we all recognise these as the ingredientsIt’s now plain to see that there was a glaring gap of a model driven by efficiency, but they are servedin the market for a contemporary Asian restaurant up in such a way that they feel like virtues ratherbrand. Traditional Chinese has long been an than sacrifices. They create a more casual andimportant dish in our cuisine and only Indian egalitarian dining experience that looks to thewould be considered more ‘British’. future, not the past.But the red and gold signage, dragons, lanterns and The minimalist approach also has the effect ofcalligraphy represent the China of old. Wagamama, making the food feel simple and, by implication,on the other hand, provides a taste of what’s to more healthy. US fast-food chains conquered thecome; an appetiser for the dynamic new Asia that world, but they’ve never convinced on quality.we’re all now struggling to keep up with. No wonder Wagamama’s star is rising. JJThe Asian economies have rewritten the rules inpursuit of economic growth – Wagamama hasdone the same with restaurant design. Conventionwent in the bin: you share a table with strangers,the menu is printed on paper not bound in leather,the kitchen is in full view and your food arriveswhen it’s cooked, not at the same time as yourfellow diners’ meal.100
  • 100. 101
  • 101. Timeline 1992 Alan Yau set up Wagamama (the name means ‘naughty child’ in Japanese); the first restaurant was in Bloomsbury, London. Wagamama signage 2000 Manchester became the first location for a UK Wagamama outside the capital. Wagamama ramen noodles 2005 A majority stake in Wagamama was sold to private equity firm Lion Capital, owners of Jimmy Choo and, until recently, cereal brand Weetabix, for £102.5m. Wagamama sauces 2005 The chain’s 50th restaurant opened at London’s Royal Festival Hall. 2006 Wagamama app Wagamama was named most popular London restaurant by Zagat ahead of The Ivy and Le Gavroche. 2010 A Wagamama app was introduced, offering customers the ability to place takeaway orders. Wagamama menu 2011 Lion Capital sold its stake in the business to Duke Street.102
  • 102. Did you know?‘Waiter! Waiter! There’s a fly in my truth.’* 1. n 2008, Wagamama I 3. Tracey Emin 4. lthough A 6. ince selling the S won the Evolution once paid for an ‘wagamama’ can Wagamama chain in trophy at the Peach evening meal at a be translated as 1998, its creator Factory awards City of London ‘naughty child’, Alan Yau has never for established Wagamama with it has wider uses eaten there nor set businesses that a sketch drawn on in the Japanese foot in one of its continue to evolve the back of one of language and can restaurants. ‘The successfully. its menus. The be applied to adults past is the past,’ It was described drawing is now to mean, ‘self- he has said. ‘It’s like, by judges as, ‘a framed and hangs indulgent’ or worse, would you have textbook case on the wall of ‘selfish, egocentric, dinner with one of study of how to Wagamama at insistent on having your ex-girlfriends?’ handle growth.’ Old Broad Street. one’s own way.’ 2 . hen a restaurant W 5. hen Alan Yau W opened in London launched Wagamama, in 1995 under the he and his father name, Rajamama, provided 60% the owners of the £500,000 of Wagamama it required. successfully sued its owners, City Centre Restaurants, for Number three is misleading to say the least. passing off. *The Tracey Emin sketch/meal transaction is pure fabrication. 103
  • 103. MulberryIf the rest of the British economy had fared half as well asMulberry in 2012, George Osborne would have spent thesummer performing multiple laps of honour at the OlympicStadium rather than being roundly booed. In the face of nearuniversal economic gloom, the luxury goods brand hasdefied all forecasts and seen its shares soar on the strengthof a handful of impossibly desirable handbags. A far cry fromits humble origins in early 70s’ Somerset.Mulberry, the darling of the 2012 London Fashion Cleverly marrying the brand’s hunting, shootingWeek, seems to be finally following Burberry’s lead and fishing heritage with the bold colours andand cashing in on the booming luxury-goods market. playful decoration now loved by young, glamour- seeking consumers, a succession of creativeMulberry is an exceptional maker of hand-tooled directors have since crafted signature pieces.leather, yet it has taken almost half a century to These include the Bayswater and Alexa bags,develop a winning strategy. It’s easy to see why transforming Mulberry from problem childfrom the outside. Mulberry overlooked a to fashion royalty in less than a decade.fundamental point – in designer brands, it’sall about the design, stupid. Although ownership of the company was wrested from founder Roger Saul, at least the EasternPerhaps its classic stippled finish was too narrow connections offered by current controllingin appeal, or perhaps accessories are just too niche shareholder, Christina Ong, mean Mulberrya market to sustain prime retail rents. Either way, should continue to fly the flag for Britishafter nearly sinking in the late 90s, Mulberry had design in the years to come. AKto retrench and reinvent, importing star talent tohelp it craft a wider appeal. (Note to the financialdirector; in design-driven markets, never scrimpon the talent. Creativity is your best strategy.)104
  • 104. Alexa Chung sporting the Alexa bag.105
  • 105. Timeline 1971 Roger Saul began making leather goods from his Somerset home. A factory was soon set up in Shepton Mallett and local craftsman were hired as the business grew. Bayswater 1998 Mulberry expanded its presence in Japan and entered the Middle East market with stores in Bahrain, Kuwait and Lebanon. 2000 Fashion mogul Christina Ong bought 42% of the company for a reported £7.6m. Roxanne 2001 The company returns to profitability. A year later however, it made a loss again and Saul was ousted as chairman. He sold his remaining stake and stepped down as president in 2003. Taylor satchel 2005 Mulberry won the accessory designer of the year award from the British Fashion Council. Tassel bag 2011 The company was valued at the £1bn mark after its stock rose significantly. 2012 The latest Mulberry must-have accessory, the Del Rey bag, was unveiled, named after singer Del Rey Lana Del Rey.106
  • 106. Did you know?An interloper has muscled its way into this front row of truth.* 1. n 2001, Anna I 3. Anyone holding 5. At Mulberry’s 6. Mulberry’s current Friel and her then 500 or more Spring 2012 show, resurgence has not partner, David Mulberry shares a black poodle been hindered by Thewlis, were paid is entitled to a modelled a the Duchess of a reported £50,000 20% discount jacquard peacoat. Cambridge regularly to front a Mulberry at the store. being seen either advertising campaign. wearing or carrying its products. 4. The idea for 2 . When Mulberry launching the Alexa, founder, Roger Saul, the £750 bag most was ousted from the responsible for company in 2003 he transforming the was forced to sell his company’s fortunes, 38% share for came when the £7.2m. Less than company designers a decade later the saw a photo of same shares were Alexa Chung worth £399m. carrying an Elkington, Mulberry’s classic briefcase. seen at the Spring 2013 show. *Number five doesn’t belong. The peacoat-wearing poodle was 107
  • 107. Tunnock’sWith the possible exception of Irn-Bru, no product has a strongerassociation with northern Britain than Tunnock’s and its self-styled Tea Cakes. Its unchanging packaging and its frugalapproach to finance (the family-run company carries no debt)play up to our preconceptions about canny Scottishbusiness practices, as does its refusal to give houseroomto management consultants. For millions it represents theultimate in comfort food and it’s wise enough to know thatthis is an attribute which money can’t buy.Tunnock’s is a classic case of design that has When we unwrap one of Tunnock’s cakes orremained ‘unspoiled by progress’. Its charm lies biscuits we are also unwrapping associations within an uncontrived retro feel. In a competitive happier, simpler times. It is the prefect brand forenvironment that is glossy, Photoshopped and the ‘Keep calm’ era, which is why its distinctiveup-­ o-­ he minute, Tunnock’s jumps out for its t t stripy iconography is now applied to trendyalmost crudely bold graphic nature – the dynamic ceramics, cushions and suchlike.pattern of stripes sings on the shelf. The basic The graphics also pass a crucial test of a brand’stypography, punchy colours and quirky equities, visual robustness. Even if you crumple it up, theresuch as the flag-­ earing lion and the star on the b is no mistaking the packaging for any other brand.marshmallows, all contribute to it looking like It really is design of a fine vintage. SAthe real deal. If you set out to do a pastiche ofthis style, you would never pull off somethingso idiosyncratic and singular.The charming yellow display boxes featuring thechubby-­ heeked schoolboy would probably never cpass muster now amid associations with childhoodobesity. Happily, they were created in a less uptightage. The folk at Tunnock’s are no fools; they knowthat not monkeying around with old visualingredients is what gives their brand its appeal.108
  • 108. 109
  • 109. Timeline 1865 Thomas Tunnock was born in Uddingston, Scotland. Tunnock’s boy 1910 Encouraged by his bakery’s success, Tunnock opened a tea room. Tunnock’s Caramel Wafer 1912 The bakery was destroyed by a fire, but re-established in a different location within two years. Tunnock’s van 1920 Thomas Tunnock died while his son, Archie, was serving in the Army. He took over the family business on his return. Tunnock’s Snowballs 1986 Poet Laureate Ted Hughes penned a verse on the back of a caramel wafer wrapper. It was later sold at auction for £575. 1987 Tunnock’s tote bag, Gillian Kyle Boyd Tunnock was awarded an MBE for his work exporting to foreign countries. He later received a CBE for his charity work. 2000s Exports continued with new markets in Ghana, Tunnock’s Mini Caramel Wafers Denmark, Singapore and Egypt.110
  • 110. Did you know?One of these is half-baked.* Image courtesy of Nikki McWilliams Ltd. 1. t Gordon A 3. n 2006, the I 5. Tunnock’s Wafers 6. St Andrew’s Brown’s wedding company negotiated don’t carry a University boasts a reception in August a deal with ITV sell-by date. Tunnock’s Caramel 2000, all guests soap, Emmerdale, Wafer Appreciation were greeted with a for Tunnock’s Society which has cup of tea and products to be been in existence a Tunnock’s stocked in the for almost 30 years. Caramel Wafer. village shop. 2 . Tunnock’s 4. The firm has a Uddingston factory year-long waiting produces 350 tea list for tours of the cakes a minute. factory, such is its Employees work popularity. 10,000 from Monday to visitors per year Friday, on either make the pilgrimage one of two day to Uddingston. shifts, or the shorter night shift. knowledge, feature any Tunnock’s produce. Number one is found fraudulent. *The catering arrangements at the Brown nuptials did not, to the best of our 111
  • 111. HowiesIf ever a company supplied a dictionary definition of ‘punchingabove one’s weight’, it is surely Howies. Aside from findinga small, but passionate group of consumers, the little organicclothes manufacturer’s genius is its ability to wield influence.Howies disseminates its message with the kind ofdisproportionate effectiveness that companies ten times itssize must envy. Unsurprising perhaps, given the marketingbackground of its two founders, but impressive nonetheless.Look up ‘design’ in the OED. It can mean: To my mind it is kind of a sportier, spikier‘1. A preliminary plan, sketch, or concept, for (more adult?) take on the Innocent Drinks vibe.the making or production of a building, machine, It talks about materials ‘designed by nature’, suchgarment, etc. 2. The art of producing these.’ as Merino wool that ‘will never, ever stink...no matter how much you sweat in it’. Having a pointBy this definition Howies is a design champion. of view gives Howies clarity in determining whatMore than most, it considers its materials and its product, styling and communication approachproduction. It’s a thoughtful brand. It goes for can be. As such, all these elements complementtriple rather than double-stitching on jeans. one another and become greater than the sumIt chooses organic cotton because it’s kinder of their parts.to your skin. It is happy to charge a little morefor a little better. It comes down to the consideration with which Howies put things together, in spirit and inIn garment retail there’s often less than meets manufacture. That is not always the case withthe eye to successful brands. Conversely, Howies ‘designer’ quality, as opposed to quality design. SAapparently considers substance first, then thinksa little about the style. Rather than blandly meaningnothing much to a huge target audience, it haselected to mean something in particular to amore selective group of people.112
  • 112. 113
  • 113. Timeline 1995 Clare and David Hieatt set up the Howies clothing range producing four T-Shirts in their London flat as a break from their marketing day jobs. Howies hoody 2000 The company decided to sell by mail order as demand for Howies products grew. David Hieatt left ad agency Abbott Mead Vickers to run the company full time. No other full-time Lozenge bag staff were employed. 2001 Howies moved to Cardigan, Wales, with two full-time staff. ‘Rest Less’ Tour de France T-Shirts, 2012 2003 Turnover stood at £160,000, with Howies products sold in 70 shops across the UK. The website Howies.co.uk was relaunched, with an active blog devoted to musings on sport and the environment. Timbuk2 bag 2005 Howies began using ethical bank Triodos. Fredrik Western shirt 2008 Howies was named sixth-most recession-proof company by the Financial Times.114
  • 114. Did you know?There is no place on the runway of truth for one of these models.* 1. In 2012, David 2 . n returning to O 4. he company has T 6. n 2008, David I and Clare Hieatt Wales, Howies a list of ‘Stuff We Hieatt founded the launched the Hiut launched the Believe In’ on which ‘Do Lectures’. Denim Company in ‘Cardigan cardigan’, the final item reads: They’re billed as Cardigan. Each pair but was unable to ‘And we believe tea ‘talks that inspire of jeans they sustain the quality should always be action’ and likened manufacture will of its wool supply made in a pot.’ to a ‘Glastonbury come with an app and quickly for the mind’ called History Tag. discontinued it. where successful It will tell the 5. Howies takes its entrepreneurs show individual story of name from a others how to put the jeans from the corruption of ideas into action. 3. owies was forced H sourcing of the co-founder Clare Held in April at to close its one denim to final Hieatt’s maiden Parc y Pratt Farm in store in London on production. name of Howells. Cardigan, they now Christmas Eve, Customers will have a sister event in 2011, blaming a then be able to the US in September. demand for a 30% upload significant increase in rent pictures onto the from its landlords. app to provide a complete history of the jeans. It’s hoped it will encourage sustainability But the stuff about tea in a pot is both true and right. and emphasise *No Cardigan cardigan was ever manufactured by Howies, making number two untrue. their longevity. 115
  • 115. Dr MartensEven before Paul Weller sang of Dr Martens’ ‘Apocalypse’,the air-sprung footwear occupied a central role in the culturalhistory of this country. Worn by skinheads, mods, punks,ska revivalists and later fans of grunge, these boots havemoved from being a working man’s wardrobe staple to auniversal symbol of youth culture; capable of meaning allthings to all men (and women). Production might have largelyshifted from these shores, but the influence will endure.Why do some designs achieve ubiquitous popularity a bit more Agyness Deyn than Pete Townshend.and an aura of enduring cool? I think Dr Martens’ Youth cult brands might come and go, but suchdesign success is all about the engineering, not the endeavours are all grist to Dr Martens’ continuingstyle. Bouncing around at gigs, kicking in foes or vitality, between patches where anyone anddoing the Nutty Dance is so much easier on the everyone wears them again.feet because of those wonderfully springy soles. Certain designs catch on because they are ofTactility is supposedly our least consciously affordable high quality, whether you are a punknoticed, but most persuasive, sense – it’s the first or the prime minister. Of their kind, you can’t getone we develop as infants. So those forgiving soles better than Docs and any fashion frippery cannotare probably a much more important brand equity improve on the basic template – that is design (notthan the yellow stitching, the ‘Air Wair’ cloth tabs styling) of some genius. SAflapping off the back of the ankle, or the amountof lace-eyelets one chooses. Design is much morethan a surface thing. The key designs are classics because they have notbeen tinkered with. Of course, relevance is all,so the brand can boast a ‘2012 collection’ that is116
  • 116. 117
  • 117. Timeline 1901 The Griggs family established a boot-making business in Northampton. Bill Griggs acquired the rights to manufacture Dr Martens boots in the late 50s. 1960 The Who’s Pete Townshend, 1960s The first 1460-style Dr Martens boot was produced, rolling off the line on 1 April (hence the style name). Sex Pistols, 1970s 1999 Production reached its peak at 10 million pairs a year. 2003 The Clash, 1970s All production was outsourced to China and Thailand; UK manufacture of Dr Martens ceased. However, production of some vintage styles returned to the UK four years later. Madness, 1970s 2011 Dr Martens’ owner, the still family-run R Griggs Group, announced record revenues of £110.2m, with 42% of sales in the US. 2012 R Griggs Group put the Dr Martens brand up Blur, 1990s for sale with a reported price-tag of £120m.118
  • 118. Did you know? One of these facts has been doctored.*Archive image courtesy of Gavin Watson, campaign photographer for Dr Martens. 1. arly prototypes of E 3. lton John gave the E 4. n 1986, Ben Elton I 6. Dr Martens were the boot, which were brand a massive provoked over 500 declared an produced in 1945 by boost when he wore complaints to offensive weapon Dr Klaus Maertens a giant pair of Docs Channel 4 for in the UK in the and his friend Dr in the 1975 film of joking that Dr early 70s because Herbert Funck, used Pete Townshend’s Martens ‘are as of their steel toecaps reclaimed rubber rock opera, Tommy. British as the and being the from Luftwaffe Despite having to Queen – another footwear of choice airfields. Thus, boots wear foot-long old boot with of armies of which have been calipers in order to German origins’. football hooligans. worn by youth cultures walk in the boots, Police insisted they of both left and right, Elton (The Pinball could only be worn can claim a lineage Wizard) made sure 5. fter Alex DeLarge A into football stretching back to he kept the pair after (Malcolm McDowell) grounds if the laces the defeat of fascism. filming finished. and his fellow droogs were removed. They were last seen wore Dr Martens in in Northampton Stanley Kubrick’s Museum A Clockwork Orange 2. eflecting its R Art Gallery. (1971), sales of the popularity with women, in the 10-holed variety of 1990s Dr Martens the boots soared. introduced a bridal version of the boot in gold with white laces. *Number four is, of course, cobblers. 119
  • 119. KiwiThe biggest shoe polish brand in the world seemed to rise toglobal dominance simply on the back of being in the pack ofsoldiers in both World Wars. But that would be to overlook itsinherent quality and constant desire for expansion. Not tomention a tin design so instantly recognisable that it quicklydidn’t even need to say what it was selling. A product, in otherwords, which does exactly what it doesn’t say on the tin.Who would have guessed that opening a tin of As you would expect, Kiwi has innovated andshoe polish could be so pleasing? Don’t get me developed products that can save you havingwrong. Cleaning shoes is not a personal passion; to take off your shoes before you polish themit’s just that turning the little lever on Kiwi’s or washing your hands once you have. Refreshinglycontainer has always been a nice moment in though, the original tin remains at the heart of thean otherwise tedious task.  brand over 100 years later.  While a superior product formulation, more- They say that you can judge a man by his shoes,affordable leather and a couple of World Wars apparently because it tells you whether he takesall helped Kiwi to become a global leader in the pride in the little things. Kiwi teaches us thatsector, the opening mechanism surely played a the smallest of design details can make allkey part. Introduced as a practical design solution the difference. JJ(ergonomic and keeping fingers free from polish),it quietly became a ritual. Somehow, unscrewingor prising off the lid just doesn’t make the sameimpression as popping it open.  We discard brand rituals like these at our peril – whocan forget when Nestlé did away with Kit Kat’s silverfoil and paper? Literally tearing off and throwingaway precious brand equity built over decades.120
  • 120. 121
  • 121. Timeline 1878 The Ramsay family, including a young William, moved to Australia, where they prospered in the property business. Kiwi logo 1901 On a visit to New Zealand, Ramsay met his future wife, Annie Elizabeth Meek, and he named the shoe polish after the flightless bird associated with that country. Advertising, 1940s 1914 William Ramsay died and the business was taken over by his father John, who was succeeded 10 years later by William’s sons. 2006 Vintage Kiwi tin, c.1960s The business collected and distributed 100,000 shoes for Africa as part of project Malaki, to mark 100 years of Kiwi. 2011 SC Johnson acquired Kiwi for a reported $328m. Advertising Spain, 2003 Advertising Japan, 2009122
  • 122. Did you know? One of these facts isn’t fair dinkum.*Image courtesy of Chris Anderson. 1. iwi used to carry K 2. t’s believed that I 4. Kiwi shoe 6. n Martin Scorsese’s I a shade of polish because of its early polish contains Taxi Driver, ex- called ‘Nigger and widespread 3’,6’-Bis-(Diethylamino) Marine Travis Bickle Brown’. It became international use, -Fluoran, the same (Robert De Niro) is associated with the Kiwi polish was dye that used to be seen setting his Kiwi (white) Australian instrumental in used in heat-sensitive shoe polish alight rugby league centre, making the Kiwi carbonless paper for to soften it prior Edwin Brown, who both the national fax machines. to buffing his boots. was said to use the symbol of New This is possible, polish. In 1960, he Zealand and the although not had a stand named most commonly necessarily 5. he same substance T after him at his used name for the recommended, which gives home club of islands’ residents. because the polish supermarket apples Toowoomba in contains the highly their sheen is also Queensland. Despite flammable heavy used in Kiwi shoe the unceasing efforts naphtha. 3. New Zealand band, polish. It’s called of anti-racism Crowded House, Carnauba wax and activist, Stephen released a limited can also be found in Hagan, the E S edition vinyl copy of chewing gum ‘Nigger Brown’ their album, Temple and dental floss. stand remained in of Low Men with a existence until the cover which ground was pastiched the Kiwi modernised in 2008. shoe polish logo. alluded to in number three doesn’t actually exist. *Calm down Record Collector readers! The vinyl 123
  • 123. KenwoodIt is surely not overstating the case to say the KenwoodChef is a design classic, worthy of a place somewherebetween the iMac and the Mini in the pantheon of greatBritish innovations; a perfect blend of form and function.The national affection for this doughty kitchen appliancestems from its simple virtues of looking good, working welland lasting an awfully long time. A device which earns thepraise of serious foodies and rank amateurs is a rare andbeautiful thing.It should come as no surprise that electrical It is fair to say that it has less retro cool thanengineer Ken Wood honed his skills on radars the American KitchenAid, but there is somethingin World War II. His signature product, the shamelessly functional about the Chef ’s stylingKenwood Chef, is exactly what you want by that’s uniquely British. That’s probably why it looksyour side when going into battle in the kitchen. most at home on the kitchen counter of a countryEverything about its simple, solid design tells you cottage, somewhere between the Aga and the pantry.that it means business. Whether you’re kneading Beyond durability, however, the Kenwood doesdough or beating eggs, you know it will make light have one piece of killer branding engineered intoof the most arduous culinary work. its design. The mixing beater still proudlyIts industrial roots were plain to see in the original integrates the shape of a ‘K’ – a little detail thatdesign and it’s largely unchanged today. While it makes a deep impression. JJhas been through some subtle cosmetic changes:from beige, through white to the contemporarysilver finish – it still looks as solid as ever.Perhaps too solid: a modern marketer might raisean eyebrow at the durability of the KenwoodChef ’s design. Where’s the need to upgrade orinvest in accessories? To the consumer, though,that’s the very thing that makes the design great.124
  • 124. 125
  • 125. Timeline 1947 The Kenwood Manufacturing Company’s first product, the Turnover toaster, launched. Advertising, 1930s 1950 The Kenwood Chef made its debut at the Ideal Home Exhibition. It cost about £20 – just over 5% of the average annual salary. 1960 Kenneth Grange, the designer who would be Kenwood Chef A700D, 1950s responsible for the look of British Rail’s InterCity 125 trains, redesigned the Kenwood Chef. 2001 Italian company De’Longhi acquired Kenwood. Advertising, 1960s 2006 The oldest working Kenwood Chef (aged 56 years) was discovered in Bristol. 2009 The next generation of the Kenwood Chef was launched. The Cooking Chef featured induction Kenwood Chef, c.1963 technology under the bowl to allow it to be cooked in. 2010 The Kenwood Chef celebrated its 60th anniversary. Titanium Chef KM010126
  • 126. Did you know?There’s a pork pie lurking amongst these culinary facts.* Advertising, 1960s. 1. n 1948, backed I 3. n 1966, a I 4.Also in 1966, 6. Despite never with £800 of capital Kenwood Chef Kenwood launched having designed a and 20 staff, cost 30 guineas the Kenwood kitchen appliance Kenneth Wood (equivalent to £950 Chefette, a smaller, before, Kenneth moved into in today’s money). cheaper mixer Grange was hired a factory in Woking One of its which sold for by Kenneth Wood and set up his advertising slogans £11.16s. It didn’t to give the Chef manufacturing at the time was, prove as durable a redesign. company. ‘She is bound to be or as popular as Speculating later a good cook with a its older sibling. about how he was Kenwood Chef.’ given the job, the Another was, ‘The multi-award- 2.Wood’s belief in the Kenwood Chef winning designer crucial importance 5.In France, does everything but said, ‘Probably of design was Kenwood Chefs cook – that’s what because I was encapsulated in his are known as wives are for!’ cheapest and motto that ‘eye Escoffiers. probably because appeal is buy appeal’. I said I’d do it in By the age of 38 he a week.’ was a millionaire. But a quarter-pounder with cheese is called a Royal Cheese. It’s the little differences . . . *Number five is being economical with the actualité. Kenwood Chefs are not called Escoffiers in France. 127
  • 127. RicardRicard turned 80 in 2012, during which time it has progressedfrom nothing to the third-biggest drinks company in theworld (albeit after a merger with its arch-rival). The smell,the taste, even the look is synonymous with summer inFrance but it symbolises that which divides us. For theFrench it’s a way of life. For the English, the classic holidaydrink – a bottle of which it’s compulsory to have languishingat the back of our drinks cabinets.Ricard is an unusual Champion, because its Brushing aside concerns over the partnership ofpackaging is neither particularly original, nor alcohol brands with motorsport, Ricard stayed topmemorable. Launched as a rival to Pernod, the of mind through its bright yellow racing cars,leading pastis of its day, the Ricard bottle bears going on to construct a textbook example ofmore than passing similarity to it. Yet the brand a branded venue – Circuit Paul Ricard on thedeserves a medal for making humble barware an outskirts of Paris.advertising medium all its own. Above all, perhaps Ricard serves to remind us thatChurned out by a dedicated ‘propaganda factory’, in design, the best ideas are often simple. Universalashtrays, water jugs, carafes, tumblers and a multitude availability and eye-catching point of sale might beof other drinkers’ trinkets made the Ricard brand Marketing 101, but they are first principles forubiquitous in post-war French café society. commercial success. AKMaybe success was down to Paul Ricard’s optimismin deploying a bright combination of sunshine yellowand azure blue at an austere time – a confidencemirrored by his bold slogan ‘Garçon! Un Ricard!’Whether by luck or judgement, his cheerysentiment struck a chord, searing the brand intothe national consciousness and propelling Ricardto market leadership.128
  • 128. Image courtesy of Marc Newson Limited. Photo credit: Fabrice Gousset.129
  • 129. Timeline 1909 Paul Ricard was born in Sainte-Marthe, a suburb of Marseille. Vintage Ricard pitcher 1948 Ricard sponsored the Tour de France. 1969 Paul Ricard built Le Castellet, a Grand Prix track. It has since been renamed the Paul Ricard Circuit. Ricard ‘Apéritif Anisé’ 1984 The billionth bottle of Ricard was sold. The advertising slogan ‘Un Ricard, sinon rien’ (‘A Ricard, or nothing’) was coined. Ricard glass carafe 1993 The first limited-edition design was introduced. They have since become a regular feature of Ricard. 1997 Paul Ricard, one of France’s most respected businessmen, died. Advertising, 2001 2011 Ricard underwent a redesign to appeal to a younger market. 80th anniversary, Les Arts Décoratifs130
  • 130. Did you know?Attention rosbifs. Il y a un whopper at large dans le following.* 1. Paul Ricard said 3. n the 1930s, I 5. uring the war, D 6. he Ricard company T one of his proudest Ricard kept a small Paul Ricard benefitted achievements was supply of absinthe developed a petrol enormously in the to smuggle two for its most valued substitute made post-war years from Ricard jugs into the customers. The from cherries and the energies of its grotto at Lourdes. bottles were plums for the brilliant marketing labelled in exactly Resistance. At the director, Charles the same fashion as time, he was fond Pasqua. Alongside 2 . As a young man, the normal Ricard of riding around his company Ricard dreamed of except for the Camargue business, Pasqua being a painter, but a thin green line region of France on was heavily involved his father insisted running around the horseback, shouting, in politics, including that he go into the outside edge of the ‘J’emmerde le far-right vigilante family wine Ricard logo. marechal Petain et groups and served business. After son gouvernement.’ as Minister for retiring from the (‘I shit on Marshall the Interior in business he went 4. Ricard was Petain and his two separate back to painting. introduced to government.’) administrations. He home-made pastis also became one of by an old shepherd France’s major who called it powerbrokers. ‘the thing’ or ‘tiger’s milk’. *The truth is absinthe, sorry, absent from number three. 131
  • 131. BenefitProving that even in the perennially po-faced world of fashion,there’s still room for a company with a sense of humour,Benefit is the US cosmetic brand that still manages to puta smile on the face of its customers. Integral to its successhas been an unconventional approach to its packaging andmarketing. What else would you expect from a companyfounded by a pair of singing sisters from San Francisco?In the serious business of beauty, Benefit provides the product names. ‘Hello Flawless’ make-up,some welcome light relief. It also provides ‘The Porefessional’ complexion balm anda different brand lesson. Unlike many other ‘They’re Real!’ mascara simply couldn’t comechampions of design, Benefit’s distinctiveness from any other brand.hasn’t been achieved through the consistent The one visual ingredient that is applied consistently isapplication and gentle evolution of key visual the Benefit logo. Ironically, for a brand that swimsequities. Instead, the brand is easy to identify against the tide, the logo conforms to the conventionsbecause of its distinctive personality. Where others of the beauty world – echoing the classic fonts usedare strictly serious, Benefit is playful and fun. to represent famous fashion magazines.Using personality to define the brand, Benefit gives The only clue as to Benefit’s true character is theeach product the freedom to tell its own story and letter ‘f ’, represented by the musical symbol ‘forte’,pick an outfit to match. The result was described meaning loud. It suggests Benefit never intendedby one colleague as ‘a beauty parlour that feels like to go about its business quietly. JJa sweet shop’. Each product entices you differentlyand leaves you wanting to try them all.That’s not to say that there isn’t a visual coherenceto the brand. The sense of fun is manifest inbright colours, kitsch imagery and above all else,132
  • 132. 133
  • 133. Timeline 1976 Twins Jean and Jane Ford from Indiana moved to San Francisco and founded a beauty boutique after a brief stint as models. Co-founders, twins Jean Jane Ford 1990 The Ford sisters called their make-up range Benefit and began selling it to department stores. Rose Tint (an early version of Benetint), 1977 1996 Ian Marshall and Gail Bojarski discovered Benefit at a beauty counter in Henri Bendel in New York and approached the Ford sisters with a view to bringing it to the UK. The Benefit logo 2000 Benefit became part of the LVMH portfolio for an undisclosed sum, with the Fords retaining a minority stake and creative control of the products. Advertising, 2009 2011 A brand new skincare line was added to the Benefit range, with a look based on 19th century apothecary bottles and developed by its parent company, LVMH Laboratories. A Benefit Boutique Advertising, 2011134
  • 134. Did you know?Which of these is masking the truth?* laughter is the best cosmetic... so grin and wear it! 1. o-founders Jean C 3. enefit’s fragrance B 4. o celebrate its T 6. The company and Jane Ford have range, Crescent arrival in Harrods, changed its name been known to Row, was inspired Benefit launched a from Face Place perform a cappella by the Royal face powder called to Benefit in 1990. songs at press Crescent in Bath. Only The Sloaney. On returning from conferences to a visit to Italy, Jane explain the virtues apparently declared, of new products. 5. The company’s ‘If only we could original business find a word that plan, drafted in would fit with bene.’ 2. enefit’s best-selling B 1976, required it to blusher, Benetint, sell $33 of goods a was created in day to break even. response to a San Franciscan stripper who was looking for a product to redden her nipples. *Number four has no foundation in the truth. 135
  • 135. SupremeHowever hard it might be to develop a brand with cult statusand unquestioned credibility, it must be exponentially moredifficult to retain that cachet for nearly two decades. Such isthe case with the effortlessly cool Supreme, purveyors ofcutting edge skatewear. Although it’s clearly a mistake to thinkit is effortless. Founder James Jebbia confessed what mightserve as a mission statement for a brand that doesn’t believein them: ‘We work very hard to make everything look effortless.’I think Supreme offers a great example of the art I have been told that when Supreme was designingand power of clever curation. I am no expert of its London outlet it elected for a parquet floorskate design trends, but from my non-street level neither reclaimed or ‘off the peg’ but bespokeperspective, Supreme doesn’t really do much in made. It was the least practical and by far the mostthe way of brand design. Rather it excels at brand expensive option. It’s also a choice that walks thebehaviour and curation (hiring the best creative walk, as well as talks the talk.partners) becomes an approach in itself. I guess Supreme understands that you get whatBy associating itself with Damien Hirst, Terry you pay for – it’s the opposite of ‘understandingRichardson, Kate Moss et al it is clearly showing the price of everything and the value of nothing’.it’s ‘a cut above’. Having ideas above its station is Not very groovy if you’re in procurement, butwhat defines the brand – it has demonstrably good that’s why it can charge a premium. And why it is intaste. How many brands would you say that of ? possession of those most priceless yet illusiveAll this is underpinned with a pretty basic (rather qualities: cool and cachet. SAartless) core identity showing that it doesn’t haveto flaunt it. It is ‘downtown’ after all, so it’s keepingit real and trying not to look over excited about thecompany it’s keeping.136
  • 136. Image courtesy of Cindy Hu.137
  • 137. Timeline 1994 Supreme opened its first store on Lafayette Street in downtown Manhattan. Kermit by Terry Richardson, 2008 2006 Supreme and Timberland launched a version of the classic Field Boot. 2009 The company launched a series of items with Budweiser including a T-Shirt and canvas duffle bag. John Baldessari decks, 2010 2010 Supreme launched T-Shirts and hooded sweatshirt created in conjunction with The Clash. Lady Gaga by Terry Richardson, 2011 2011 Levi’s and Supreme joined forces to produce a small capsule collection including a Supreme Edition of the classic Levi’s 505 Zip-Fly Jean. 2012 The brand joined forces with Clarks to release a new version of the Wallabee Boot. Supreme Campbell’s Soup collaboration, 2012 Liberty Camp caps, 2012138
  • 138. Did you know? There’s a story here that’s done a 180 from the truth.*Decks by Takashi Murakami (2007), Damien Hirst (2009) and Jeff Koons (2006). 1. hen Tyler ‘The W 2. n Supreme’s earliest I 4. In a 2004 episode 6. Supreme founder, Creator’ accepted his days customers were of The Simpsons, James Jebbia, was 2011 MTV Video not allowed to touch Bart is seen to a child actor and Music Award, his the clothes, even if use a skateboard appeared in both speech was so they intended to buy. which parodies a Grange Hill and expletive-laden that Supreme design. Just William. He it was reduced by only appeared in censors to, ‘Yo, I’m as the first series of 3. Supreme’s white excited as... , yo, Grange Hill as the on red logo was 5. n a list of ‘The 50 I I wanted...’ During character Tommy inspired by Most Influential the enforced silence Watson and was designer, Barbara People in Sneakers viewers were forced replaced by Kruger and Right Now’ to focus on his outfit Paul McCarthy. designed by the compiled by which was dominated graffiti artist, Complex Sneakers, by the Supreme logo Futura. He was Supreme creator, on his hat. It was previously known James Jebbia was considered by as Futura 2000 ranked Number 15. industry experts to and is perhaps be one of the brand’s best known for most potent pieces his work with of marketing. The Clash with whom he would appear on stage. Number four is a fiction. *Eat my limited-run, highly-collectable skate shorts. 139
  • 139. CrayolaWhere Proust had his madeleines, Americans have Crayola.According to a Yale University study, for an instantlyrecognisable aroma thats capable of whisking them backto an earlier time, US citizens swear by the multi-colouredcrayons. It’s an indication of how deeply embedded in thenational psyche the simple box of cheap colouring implementshas become and suggests that even in a digital, pixellatedworld of multiple hi-tech options, there might still be a futurefor the humble crayon.It’s all about colour. Crayola took a memorable – endlessly innovate and evolve, while remainingname and framed it with a memorable design. recognisably itself. By respecting its past, CrayolaThe early packs were things of typographic is rewarded with the best thing branding can generate:beauty, the simple green and yellow livery creating trust. It ensures we give it the benefit of the doubtan impact. The dynamic chevron shape of the even with some of its more glitzy product lines.design’s ‘architecture’ has also endured. These days The heart of the brand, crayons, were a perfectthings might be a little less elegant (or simple), but design for their purpose: simple, attractive, affordable,the basic design formula has remained consistent.  the right size and beautifully distinctive. Today,All this is a great lesson in ‘if it ain’t broke, Crayola steers clear of innovation that requiresdon’t fix it’. Sticking to a template has ensured too much instruction or ‘set’ use of the products.that its visual equities now have a symbolic power; It enables, rather than controls, creativity in theCrayola defines its category and represents young. Every great design champion probablya particular time and place in all our lives. started out using Crayola and benefiting from thisAs parents, we remain loyal because Crayola ethos, which is reason enough to praise it. SAis familiar from our own formative creative play. Being consistent with the graphics also liberatesthe brand to do what it has always done brilliantly140
  • 140. 141
  • 141. Timeline 1885 Edwin Binney and his cousin, C Harold Smith, formed a partnership and called their company Binney Smith. Crayola USPS stamp, 1998 1903 The Crayola name was devised by Alice Binney, wife of co-founder Edwin. The name derived from craie, French for chalk, and ‘ola’, from oleaginous (oily). Crayola Collector’s Edition tin 1930 Artist Grant Wood produced the oil painting American Gothic. As a child, he had entered and won a Crayola colouring contest, inspiring him to pursue a career in art. Advertising, 2000 1978 Crayola crayons celebrated its 75th anniversary. The same year it introduced a range of marker pens. 1995 A ‘magic scents’ range included crayons with the Crayola juice box holder smell of coconut, liquorice and chocolate. These were quickly replaced by non-food smells such as fresh-air and lumber after parents complained that children could mistakenly eat them. 2007 Binney Smith was renamed Crayola, reflecting Crayola ColourStudio HD the popularity and recognition of the brand.142
  • 142. Did you know? Hue must be joking! One of these is a shade untrue.*Converse All Star Crayola, 2012. 1. n 2000, Americans I 3. y their 10th B 4. he melting point T 6. n 2008, a group of I were invited to vote birthday the of Crayola crayons US children were for their favourite average American (take note all who invited by Crayola Crayola colour. child will have have left them on executives to come George W Bush worn down 720 the back seat of a up with new names chose Blue Bell. Crayola crayons. car on a summer’s and new shades Coincidentally, blue day) is between which they felt were also happens to be 128 and 147 ‘in’ that year. The the favourite colour degrees Fahrenheit. ‘Kids’ Choice of most Americans. Colour’ list ran: Super Happy, Fun in 5. In 1998, the US the Sun, Giving Tree, 2. he working title T Postal Service Bear Hug, Awesome, for The Beach Boys’ released a 32 cent Happy Ever After, classic album, Pet stamp bearing the Famous and Sounds, was picture of an Best Friends. Crayola 66. original box of Crayola crayons. *Wouldn’t it be nice if number two were true? But it’s not. 143
  • 143. Chupa Chups‘Who loves ya, baby?’ enquired a Chupa Chups-chompingTelly Savalas as the hard-boiled NYC detective Kojak back in the mid-70s. In the case of the lollipop behemoth, the answer would seem to be, ‘everybody’. From the Salvador Dalí- designed logo on its wrapper to the sugary contents within, favoured by children and ex-smokers the world over, Chupa Chups spreads a little Spanish sunshine wherever it goes.First-mover advantage is not only about being It’s about the magnificent display units whichfirst off the drawing board; apparently, American build on Salvador Dalí’s ‘daisy’ logo, offeringGeorge Smith was the first to put sweeties on up a sweetie bouquet to the buyers. With the logosticks, back in 1908. Sadly for Smith, his brand fell sat atop the product, the rest of the tiny packvictim to the Great Depression. Then along came is freed up for colours that deliver easy navigationChupa Chups. As its inventor, Enric Bernat, noted: and look, en masse, like a group of cheerful‘If you can be first to do something, and you beach parasols.do it after due consideration, it’s an advantage.’ The most sophisticated thinking is often theThe second half of that statement explains why simplest. Delivering something as seeminglythis particular design has endured and come to uncomplicated, yet effortlessly perfect, as thebe considered the definitive original. Chupa Chup requires a systematically rigorous‘Due consideration’ says it all. The best design approach to the original idea and its creativeis not just a ‘thing’, it’s a system: of innovation, execution. SAmanufacture, display and navigation. It is about allthe elements being thought through and workingelegantly together. In Chupa Chups’ case, ‘dueconsideration’ meant recognising that a sphericalsweet works well in the mouth and that plasticsticks would resolve a struggle to source timber.144
  • 144. 145
  • 145. Timeline 1958 Bernat called his sweet-on-a-stick creation Chups, taken from the Spanish word chupar, meaning ‘to suck’. It was renamed Chupa Chups Original logo designed by Salvador Dalí, 1969 in 1961. 1967 A second factory was opened in Sant Esteve Sesrovires, Barcelona, followed soon after by its first international subsidiary in Chupa Chups Seat 600, 1960s Perpignan, France. 1979 Sales of Chupa Chups reached 10 billion lollipops. This figure had doubled just nine years later. Chupa Chups stationery 1995 Chupa Chups became the ‘first lollipop in space’ when it was taken aboard the MIR space station by a Russian astronaut. Advertising, 2009 2004 The Chupa Chups lollipop became one of 122 objects displayed in the ‘Humble Masterpieces’ show at New York’s Museum of Modern Art. 2006 Three years after the death of Bernat, the Chupa Chups tin business was taken over by Italian group Perfetti Van Melle.146
  • 146. Did you know?Which of these is a fib? Suck it and see.* 1. n 1958, the first I 3. rom 2000 to 2003, F 5. standard 12g A 6. When Chupa Chupa Chups Chupa Chups were Chupa Chups Chups brought out (known as Chups official sponsors of lolly contains a series of lollipops originally) cost Sheffield Wednesday. 45 calories. to promote Buffy one peseta each During this period The Vampire Slayer, and were considered the club were they changed the relatively expensive. relegated from colour of the sticks the Premiership from white to black. to Division Two. 2.In 1996, inspired by its catchphrase, ‘This sucks!’, Chupa 4 . hupa Chups C Chups brought out became inextricably Beavis and Butthead linked with Kojak versions with because actor Telly rotating heads of Savalas was trying the slacker youths. to give up smoking when the series began shooting. *Suckers! Number two ain’t true. 147
  • 147. AcknowledgementsWe would like to extend a big thank you to all the contributors to this book.Particular thanks to the Advertising Archives and Rex Features. Thanks also toRaúl Gómez, Mark Wilson, Nikki McWilliams, Gavin Watson, Chris Anderson,Marc Newson and Cindy Hu for kindly sharing their images.A special thanks to John Naughton for writing the introductions and findingall those interesting facts, for a second year running.Within jkr, thanks to Mina Jee for the book’s design. Thanks to Myles Dewbreyand Nick Little for photography and retouching. Thanks to Norah Lewis forartwork and Judith Allan for production. Finally, thanks to Amy Maw who,more than anyone, got this book into your hands.
  • 148. Want to read more? Our Design Gazette posts every working day online.*Our past 3 publications can also be downloaded for free at the Kindle Store. * www.jkrglobal.com/design-gazette
  • 149. Which brand is known as ‘le monstre’?Which brand has a melting point of between128 and 147 degrees Fahrenheit?Which best-selling product was originallyintended to redden nipples?A herringbone gear-wheel inspires whichbrand logo?Which brand has no debt?…and what makes a Champion of Design?This book celebrates thirty-five great works ofdesign, the people who created them and theclients who bought them.

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