This document outlines a study on the symbolic and expressive value of second-hand apparel shopping. The researchers aim to understand how consumers express themselves through second-hand shopping and what meanings and identities are embodied in this activity. Specifically, they seek to examine the role of ethics. The framework draws on self-concept and symbolic consumption theories. Methods include ethnographic interviews with second-hand shop owners and consumers, as well as netnographic analysis of blogs. The research questions have been modified to focus on meanings rather than motives. Interviews are complete and next steps include transcription and analysis.

1. Thriftmania: Second-hand shopping as a form of self-expression ProgressReport Elisa Hauru Anna Salo KseniaVyushkova

2. The purpose of the study.. Weseek to understand the symbolic/expressivevalue of shopping for second-hand apparel. Alsowewish to find out how the aspect of ethicality is perceived in second-hand shopping. Keywords: second-hand apparel, ethicalconsumption, self-concept, symbolic/expressivevalue

3. Based on the review session we formulated the research questions… How do consumers manifest themselves as second hand shoppers? What kinds of meanings are embodied through shopping for second-hand apparel? Especially what is the role of ethicality? How is “the self” enhanced in purchasing and consuming second-hand apparel? Additional question: What are the dynamics between personal and social identities as related to self-expression?

4. On second-hand shopping and ethicalconsumption.. Second-hand refers to previously owned and second-hand buying is defined as the acquisition of used objects through often specific modes and places of exchange (Roux & Guiot 2008). Here we concentrate on second-hand boutiques selling mainly high fashion and upper scale apparel. Thus we exclude wholesale second hand shops (such as UFF) and flea markets. Second-hand is regarded as one of the most eco-friendly ways of shopping and is thus a form of ethical consumption.

5. Framework We derive from studies of self-concept as related to self-categorization theory and symbolic consumption as well as image congruency theory. Dynamics between personal and social self Personal identity How I seemyself? How I want to seemyself? Social identity How otherssee me? How I want to beseen? Intrinsicvalue Extrinsicvalue Symbol X (Product, brandorstore) Modified from Grubb & Grathwohl (1967): Relationship of the consumption of goods as symbols to the self-concept.

6. Methodology Ethnography Semi-structured thematic interviews (6-7) Store owners KaunisVeera RuutuRouva Amado Consumers (bloggers and a stylist) Netnography As a secondary data source Blogs and communities on ethical lifestyles and second-hand fashion/shopping

7. Sowhatwehavedone.. Decided to broaden our focus instead of focusing just on the social value side. The concept of symbolic/expressive value seemed more appropriate as related to self-concept. Modified the research questions. We’re not studying motives but meanings. Formulated a suitable theoretical framework. Started conducting interviews. Finished after this week. Decided to bring along netnographic research as well especially to clarify the role ethics play in second-hand shopping. Next steps: Transcriptions Analysis