What you have to see and do in Vietnam, or you will regret it

1. A product of Vietnam’s colonial past, the beloved concoction combines a crunchy French
baguette with pork, pate and an everchanging array of fresh vegetables. If you want to start
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12 October 2014
The cab driver stopped on the bustling boulevard Pho Hue and pointed at a mishmash of
incongruent four and five-story buildings across the street. I hopped out and dodged buzzing
motorbikes and exhaustbelching cars, trying to get from curb to curb.
Then I spotted it: Banh Mi Pho Hue (118 Phố Huế; 84-4-3822-5009), the no-frills sandwich
shop named for the Hanoi street on which it sits. Nearly everyone I’d asked had said Banh
Mi Pho Hue served the tastiest banh mi in Hanoi. But the family that’s run the shop since
1974 has a reputation for closing it whenever the cooks run out of ingredients. So when I
arrived at 7pm on a Saturday and found it still open, I was delighted.
Translated simply as “wheat,” the banh mi is a delicious and ever-varying combination of
deli-style pork, pate and veggies (think carrots, cilantro, cucumber, etc), stuffed into a soft
and crunchy French baguette. Regional variations in Vietnam involve adding headcheese,
pork sausage and various other vegetables.
In an age of hipster food mashups – Korean tacos, anyone? – the banh mi is the product of
a true cultural and culinary blend. No food trucks, Instagram photos or tweets led to its
creation. The sandwich began with colonialism – specifically, the establishment of French
Indochina in 1887 – when the occupying French simply slathered butter and pate inside a
baguette. Then when the Vietnamese sent the French packing in 1954, they put their own
spin on the sandwich, adding slices of pork, herbs and pickled vegetables, and creating the
banh mi as we know it.
The rest of the world didn’t learn about this spectacular sandwich until after the end of the
Vietnam War in 1975. As many southern Vietnamese emigrated to the United States,
Europe and Australia, they brought recipes, including one for their iconic sandwich. As a
result, if you’re eating a banh mi outside of Vietnam, you’re probably enjoying a southern-
style snack: the baguettes are generally bigger and they’re crammed with more veggies and
herbs, such as cilantro, carrots and hot peppers.
Oddly, the banh mi has always been the one kind of food I liked better outside its home turf.
When I tried a banh mi in Ho Chi Minh City a few years earlier, I’d found the bread stale and
the ingredients skimpy; inside was a paltry mix of a few slices of ham, a smear of pate and
flaccid cilantro and carrots. I gave up after one sandwich. I’d had far better banh mi in New
York City; even Minneapolis! Was I crazy? Could the banh mi outside of Vietnam actually be
better? Now back in Vietnam, I was determined to find out the truth. Would my faith in the
banh mi in its homeland be restored? Is the banh mi the best sandwich in the world?
At Banh Mi Pho Hue, Geoffrey Deetz – a chef and Vietnamese food expert who’s been living
in the country for nearly 15 years – was peppering the sandwich maker with questions about
ingredients. Meanwhile, I’d just been served my banh mi, partially covered with piece of
white paper affixed with a rubber band.

2. I pulled back a side of the baguette to get a look at the ingredients: pork deli meat, fatty char
siu pork, pork floss, creamy pate, Chinese 5 spice and, curiously, butter. The sandwich
maker finished it off by pouring pork-chili gravy inside. Interestingly, I saw none of the herbs
and veggies that spill out of the baguettes served in southern Vietnam or outside of the
country.
“The banh mi sandwiches in Hanoi are much more one dimensional than other parts of the
country,” Deetz told me. “If you gave someone here the kind of over-stuffed, herb-laden
sandwich you’ve eaten in other parts of the country, they’d probably throw up.”
Happily, I didn’t throw up. This banh mi was radically different, true. But it was just as good
as the sandwiches I’d eaten elsewhere. The crunch of bread was followed by an interplay of
porky goodness with a slight kick of spice. It was more like a meat sandwich. I loved it.
“They don’t really like overly complex food in Hanoi,” Deetz added. “But so many things in
here have a function: the pork floss soaks up the sauce, the pate adds moisture and the fact
that the baguette is lightly toasted keeps it from getting soggy in this immense humidity.” A
man rides a rickshaw in Hoi An, Vietnam. (Hoang Dinh Nam/Getty)
While in Vietnam, I also tried a banh mi in Hoi An, a Unesco World Heritage-designated city
on the central coast. In a region known for fertile soil and vibrant herbs, it’s no surprise the
sandwiches there are stuffed with verdant vegetables.
As I did in Hanoi, I asked everyone who would listen where I could find the best banh mi
around. The answer was Banh Mi Phuong (Phan Chau Trinh 2B) a diminutive shop in the
centre of town. I ordered the classic, which the menu board indicated contained “bread, pork,
ham, pate”. But there was so much more: long slices of cucumber, fresh cilantro, pickled
carrot and even juicy tomato slices. Phoung finished it off with a flurry of sauces: a squirt of
chili sauce and two different pork sauces, one from boiled pork and one from smoked pork.
Vietnam hotel
The key to a good banh mi is, in fact, the bread. A bad baguette – a hard, crumbly log – will
ruin an otherwise fine sandwich. Phuong’s bread, baked right next door, was ultra-soft,
almost deflating when I took a bite, while also maintaining a crispy exterior. Top that
(literally) with highquality pork, two different pork-based sauces and a few surprises like
tomato and pickled papaya and I had a very good sandwich in my hands.
All told, I sampled about 15 banh mi sandwiches over two weeks in Vietnam. Happily, I’d
eaten some of the best sandwiches I’d ever had. That banh mi I tried in Saigon a few years
ago – the one that turned me off to the sandwich for a while – was just a fluke.
But is the banh mi the best sandwich in the world?
There’s scene in The Simpsons in which Homer expresses bewilderment when his daughter,
Lisa, becomes a vegetarian.
“What about bacon?” Homer asks.
“No!” Lisa says.
“Ham?”
“No!”
“Pork chops?”
“No!” Lisa says. “Dad, those all come from the same animal!”

3. “Yeah right,” Homer says. “A wonderful, magical, animal.”
Something that combines so much pork with fresh herbs all stuffed into a crispy baguette is,
I have to say, a pretty magical sandwich.

4. Visit to Vu Linh, Vietnam
A Visit to Local village in Vietnam
“We buy a lot of stuff from our neighbors,” said Asger Koppen, managing director of
Topas Travel, the Danish parent company of Topas Ecolodge, which lies among such
villages near Vietnam’s border with China. “The idea was to make a showcase of
sustainable tourism in a poor area.”
The lodges are a departure from the typical accommodations available in and around
the northern town of Sapa, the epicenter of the country’s ethnic-minority tourism,
where the usual choice is between Vietnamese hotels and basic homestays.
But while many guests have enjoyed the boutique retreats, Mr. Binh and other
managers say, they have not been particularly successful from a financial standpoint.
Topas Ecolodge, 11 miles from Sapa, was one of the first foreign-run lodges in the
ethnic hinterland. It sits atop terraced rice paddies at an elevation of about 3,280 feet
and has panoramic views of the nearby Hoang Lien Son Mountains. The lodge has 25
bungalows and a restored stilt house that was remodeled to reflect Scandinavian
design elements. A two-night stay, including breakfasts, train travel from Hanoi and
a shuttle transfer, costs $236 per couple.
The lodge employs about 60 full-time workers, mostly from six local ethnic-minority
groups, Mr. Koppen said. Most of the staff members receive years of language and
hospitality training, and the lodge purchases the bulk of its food, materials and
decorations locally.
The lodge has not yet broken even, Mr. Koppen added, it now is use in Vietnam
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Lo A Cuong, a tour guide from the Tay ethnic group, who has worked at Topas
Ecolodge for nine years, said the lodge was seen by people in nearby villages as a
good place to work and learn new skills. He said many tourists were impressed by the
lodge’s picturesque setting and proximity to traditional farming. “They don’t have
rice fields like this in their countries,” he said.
In 2013, Bho Hoong, a similar business to Topas Ecolodge, opened in an ethnic-
minority village in central Vietnam. It is about 50 miles inland from the coastal
tourism magnet of Hoi An, a Unesco World Heritage site, and just a stone’s throw
from the former Ho Chi Minh Trail, the supply route used by North Vietnamese
troops during the Vietnam War.
Bho Hoong villagers are from the Co Tu minority group, and Active Adventures
Vietnam, the local company behind the business, markets the lodge as an authentic
experience with a “modern twist”: The five bungalows have contemporary amenities
like king-size beds and marble-accented bathrooms.
As the country becomes more of a mainstream destination catering to mid-range and
high-end travelers, more clients “want the experience but don’t want to rough it,”
said Mark Wyndham, the managing director of Active Adventures Travel Vietnam.

5. Guests can enjoy treks and ethnic music performances by villagers, but the project’s
most important achievement, Mr. Wyndham said, is generating extra income for
locals that may help preserve traditional cultures or reduce pressure on young people
to migrate to the cities.
“It’s, in a sense, trying to hold back a bit of globalization,” he said.
The project is more than just a business. It was created in coordination with the
provincial authorities and the International Labor Organization, a United Nations
agency that provided technical assistance and $50,000 in initial funding, said
Nguyen Thi Huyen, national coordinator for the agency’s sustainable and responsible
tourism program. Ms. Huyen said her office viewed public-private tourism
partnerships as a promising model that could spread beyond Bho Hoong to other
Vietnamese regions.
At La Vie Vu Linh, Mr. Binh’s efforts do not just provide Dao villagers with jobs and
tourists with somewhere to sleep at 1.2 million dong, or $55, a night, or less, for a
private room. He has also recruited teachers to give his employees lessons in English,
French, hospitality, theater and even circus arts. (Before moving to Vietnam in the
1990s, Mr. Binh managed a traveling circus camp in Ireland.) He said he also
planned to open a floating fruit and vegetable market on the lake to promote
sustainable agriculture in Vu Linh.
Tuong Van Thuong, a villager, said the lodge benefits the local economy and has
helped promote and protect Dao culture. He said he and several other neighbors
were operating their own homestay businesses.
Antoine Colmet-Daage, a French graduate student, visited La Vie Vu Linh in 2013, as
part of a weeklong motorcycle tour of northern Vietnam. He said he enjoyed learning
about Mr. Binh’s farming projects and noted that the modern comforts and tranquil
setting were a relief after long days of riding bumpy roads on a motorcycle.
He added that he was surprised to find that he and a friend were the only guests. “I
didn’t understand how a place like that could be so empty,” he said in a telephone
interview from Toulouse, France.
On a recent afternoon at La Vie Vu Linh, the premises were again all but empty,
except for Mr. Binh, his wife and a few of the lodge’s 15 employees. Mr. Binh
acknowledged that he did not advertise — most of his bookings are made through
travel agencies or international schools seeking cultural immersion programs.
He has not recouped his initial investments, including about $350,000 for structures
that accommodate as many as 80 guests, and $6,000 for solar heaters and water
filtration and biogas-capture systems. The expense “almost killed my company,” he
said with a laugh, referring to his motorcycle touring business.

6. Vietnam Travel Guide
Area:
331,210 sq km (127,881 sq miles).
Population:
93.4 million (2014).
Population density:
282.1 per sq km.
Capital:
Hanoi.
Government:
Socialist republic.
Head of state:
President Truong Tan Sang since 2011.
Head of government:
Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung since 2006.
Electricity:
220 volts AC, 50Hz. Plugs with two flat pins, two round pins or three square pins are used.
Some destinations evoke mental images the moment their names are mentioned, and Vietnam is
one of them. A frenetic and fascinating country, it calls to mind conical-hatted street vendors,
water buffalo plodding across rice fields, mopeds buzzing through cities and floating markets on
the Mekong River.
The days when Vietnam was best known for its conflict with America are long gone. From the
temples of Hanoi and the islands of Halong Bay to the beaches of Nha Trang and the palaces of
Hue, it is a country now firmly etched in the travel psyche.
At times, Vietnam package tour is an assault on the senses. Life in its feverish cities is conducted
largely on the streets, among chattering bia hois (pavement pubs) and steaming pho (noodle
soup) stands. The country’s two main cities – Hanoi in the north, Ho Chi Minh in the south – are
different in many ways, but they share an intoxicating energy. Ancient pagodas and colonial
houses jostle for space with new-build skyscrapers, while labyrinthine back-alleys hum with life.
These narrow streets are atmospheric places to spend time, day or night.
The country’s long, thin shape, sometimes compared to two rice baskets at either end of a pole,
means these two cities form natural start and end points to an itinerary. The highlights along the
way, meanwhile, are as well packed as the spring rolls which adorn market stalls: nature-lovers,
history buffs, beach bums and foodies are all catered for in singularly Vietnamese style.
Those heading into the countryside can expect not only glorious scenery, but a rich cultural web of
different ethnic groups. The US wartime legacy can still be readily explored – perhaps most
notably at the Cu Chi Tunnels near Ho Chi Minh – but this is a country to enjoy for what it is today,
whether you’re here for a few days or a month.

7. Travel Advice
Crime
Most visits to Vietnam are trouble free but you should take sensible precautions to protect yourself
and your belongings.
Carry a photocopy of the pages from your passport with your personal details and visa for ID, and
leave the original document in a safe place.
There has been a reported increase in incidents of personal belongings and bags being snatched,
including from people travelling on motorbikes. Thieves cut the straps or bottoms of bags. Some
thieves have resorted to physical violence, though this is not common. You should remain alert
and take care of your belongings, particularly in crowded areas and places visited by tourists
where pick pockets and bag snatchers operate.
Sexual assaults are rare, but you should take sensible precautions and travel with friends when
possible. Vietnam Package tour
There have been reports of arguments over hotel, restaurant or taxi bills turning violent or
abusive. It is well worth researching places to stay before you arrive. To avoid potential disputes,
make sure you are clear about the level of service you can expect to receive and any associated
charges.
There have been reports of scams targeting tourists, involving fake charities, gambling and taxis.
Local travel
Travel is restricted near military installations and some areas of Vietnam are fairly inaccessible. If
you wish to visit a village, commune or ward that is close to the border you may need to get
permission from the provincial police department. Contact the relevant local authority for more
information.
Don’t stray off main routes in rural areas and check with your tour operator before setting off.
There have been mountain climbing accidents in the north of Vietnam. Vietnam food tour You
should follow safety guidelines and procedures and make sure you are supervised by a reputable
guide.
Undertake any leisure activities which include firearms at your own risk and make sure you are
supervised by a reputable guide. There have been reports of hearing loss from those close to these
activities.
Unexploded mines and ordnance are a continuing hazard in former battlefields, particularly in
central Vietnam and along the Laos Border, formerly traversed by the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Mined
areas are often unmarked.

8. Vietnam tour advice
Road travel
To drive a car or motorcycle, you will need to get a Vietnamese driving licence from the Hanoi
Department of Public Works and Transportation (telephone:+84 4 3843 5325) or the Ho Chi Minh
City Department of Public Works and Transportation (telephone: +84 8 3829 0451 or 0452). Don’t
use your passport as a deposit for hiring vehicles or in place of a fine in the event of a traffic
offence.
The standard of driving and vehicle maintenance is poor. There are frequent accidents and fatal
crashes. Accidents can result in costly medical bills and you may not be covered by your
insurance. It’s illegal to be on a motorbike without a helmet. Helmet safety standards vary.
Traffic accidents tend to attract a large crowd. If you are involved in a traffic accident you could
face criminal charges and you may need to pay compensation to the injured person even if the
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cities/"]Vietnam car rental[/URL] You will be given a receipt for any official fine. If you are subject
to an investigation, offer the police your full co-operation and inform the British Embassy in Hanoi
or Consulate General in Hoi Chi Minh City.
Metered taxis from larger firms are generally reliable. There are many taxi operators and meters
are set at different prices. The meter should start at around 8,000 to 20,000 VND. Where possible
get hotels or restaurants to book you a reputable taxi.
There have been reports of overcharging for taxi journeys from airports. Check the published fares
near the taxi stands before starting your journey.
Bus and coach crashes are not unusual. Vehicles are often poorly maintained. The risk of death or
injury on the road increases if you travel at night. When travelling by bus be vigilant against petty
theft. Don’t accept offers of free transfers to hotels unless organised in advance, as these are
likely to be bogus.
Rail travel in Vietnam is generally safe. Be vigilant against petty theft. There have been numerous
reports of personal belongings being stolen while people are asleep on the train between Hanoi
and Sapa.
Sea travel
There have been a number of fatal boat accidents in Vietnam, some involving foreign nationals in
Halong Bay, including a major incident in October 2012. Safety regulations and standards vary
greatly and are not at the same level as the United Kingdom. Check with your tour guide about the
safety record and registration of boats, and the certification of personnel before setting off. Make
sure you receive a full safety briefing when joining any boat. Consider safety standards carefully
before taking an overnight boat trip on [URL="asiapearltravel.com"]Halong Bay cruise[/URL] as
some boats have sunk quickly and without warning.
Piracy has been known to occur in coastal areas off Vietnam. Mariners should be vigilant, reduce
opportunities for attacks, establish secure areas onboard and report all incidents to the coastal and
flag state authorities.
Political situation
Vietnam has a single party political system, which does not welcome dissent. Internal conflict is
rare. Some protests in May turned violent. You should avoid all protests.
Consular assistance
Providing prompt consular assistance is difficult outside Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City because of
poorly developed infrastructure. Some places are a flight away with only 1 daily flight.

9. Things to see and do in Vietnam
Beautiful beaches
The beaches of Vietnam are superb. Nha Trang is the perfect combination of a long sandy beach
for relaxing days under the palm trees and a town with restaurants and bars to pass the balmy
evenings. Boat trips take you out to nearby islands and divers can explore the nearby coral reefs.
Alternatively, try Vung Tau, southeast of Ho Chi Minh City for some superb snorkelling around the
many offshore islands or head east of Phan Thiet to the sand dunes of Mui Ne, which stretch for
miles. Whatever your budget there'll be a resort to suit you. Relax on the white-sand beaches or
have a go at many of the water sports on offer.
Cao Dai Temple
Head out to Tay Ninh to view the colourful midday service of the intriguing Cao Dai sect held in a
large temple almost Disney-esque in style. The followers wear red, blue and yellow robes and
chant to the accompaniment of a traditional orchestra. En route, scramble through the tunnels at
Cu Chi, from where the Viet Cong successfully launched attacks against US forces.
Central Highlands
Dalat is as far as most people go into the Central Highlands but head further into the mountains
for stunning views and waterfalls. You are assured of a warm welcome in Buon Ma Thuot, a coffee
growing region and home to the Montagnards. The Ho Chi Minh trail is easily reached from
Kontum.
Cooking lessons
Learn the subtleties of Vietnamese cookery at a class in ancient Hoi An. Submerge into the hustle
and bustle of the market to buy provisions before retreating to the calm of the kitchen. The best
part of the day – you get to eat what you have helped prepare!
Dalat
To escape the heat of the plains, head for Dalat, a former colonial hill station, reminiscent of a
French town, with faded, elegant villas evocative of another era. This is Best places to visit in
Vietnam Colonists from Saigon headed to its cool climes as well as the emperor and his entourage.
The romantic lakes and alpine scenery are magnets for Vietnamese honeymooners.
Halong Bay
Sure it is touristy, and if you take a boat trip you'll be among a flotilla of dozens of old converted
junks, but Halong Bay Vietnam still remains one of the most impressive sights in the world. Take
the opportunity to borrow a kayak (all boats should do this) and paddle through the limestone
karsts dramatically rising up out of the sea. Or spend the night on one of those junks and explore
the caves hidden deep in the islands, pass floating villages and at night enjoy a sundowner on the
top deck and look out for shooting stars.
Hanoi
Hanoi is a city of contrasts with the wide, leafy boulevards lined by beautiful colonial buildings in
the French quarter, the maze of narrow streets of the Old Quarter and the tranquil lakes.
Wherever you are, the background noise is the buzzing of the motorbikes that crowd the streets of
the capital.
Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City by train
A trip on the Reunification Express is a must. However, the trains between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh
City are certainly not express. It can take between 30 and 40 hours to travel between the two
cities so best to do one section only. Popular is the 18-hour journey between Hanoi and Hue.
Hiking

10. There are hundreds of long distance hiking trails around the country, and a significant
infrastructure for visitors wanting guided hiking tours. Head south from Hanoi into Cuc Phuong
National Park, a wilderness of forest-covered limestone mountains which rise up from the green
rice paddies, home to many rare species and the primate rescue centre. Spend the night with a
family from the Muong hill tribe in their traditional stilthouse.

11. Things to see and do in Vietnam
Ho Chi Minh City
Gleaming skyscrapers sit side by side with ramshackle buildings and crumbling colonial houses.
Monks pass deluxe car showrooms collecting alms and walk along sun-baked streets crammed with
honking motorbikes. The Saigon River is constantly crossed by small boats and ferries weaving
through larger boats.
Ho Chi Minh Trail history tour
See some of the Vietnam War sights by walking part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, used as supply
routes by the North Vietnamese during the war. You can't fail to be intrigued by the network of
tunnels excavated by the Viet Cong from which they launched regular attacks on the US forces.
For a taste of life underground scramble through one of the narrow tunnels, specially widened for
Western visitors.
Hoi An
Meander the narrow streets with their tiny shop houses, relax in a riverside bar and savour tasty
local dishes. This is the place to buy souvenirs, silk items, T-shirts and ceramics. Whatever you do
make sure you treat yourself by having clothes made at one of the many tailors.
Hué
The former imperial city of Hue is crammed with wonderful sights. The Imperial Citadel, suffering
from the ravages and war and the tropical weather, Vietnam car rental is slowly being
painstakingly renovated; riverside is the Thien Mu pagoda where novice monks peek shyly at the
visitors; and the mausoleums of the Emperors, each unique in style.
Meet the locals
The best way to meet the locals is to pull up a low plastic chair in the pavement bar order some
beer, order fresh peanuts and quails eggs and chat to the locals. Even with a language barrier,
you'll be clinking glasses long into the night.
Mekong Delta
Explore the watery world of the Mekong Delta where channels of the might Mekong Delta
crisscross the land and provide a fertile place to grow vast swathes of rice and fruit. Discover
riverine towns, floating markets and small riverside industries and spend the night in a homestay
with a farming family.
Motorbiking
It is becoming increasingly popular to hire a motor bike - invariably a Russian made 125cc Minsk -
and ride it from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. Riddled with all sorts of dangers, not least the vast
amount of bikes in the cities, it is nevertheless an exhilarating way to see the country. Vietnam
food tour
River markets
The river markets on the Mekong Delta are an unmissable sight. Life here is dominated by the
mighty Mekong and much of Vietnam's rice crop is grow, and the floating markets are still an
essential part of life in the south. Get up early to experience Can Tho floating market at its best.
Dozens of wooden boats, many that have seen better days, carry the freshest fruit and vegetables.
Smaller boats weave through them perusing the wares and the morning air is filled with the sound
of good-natured haggling over price.
Sapa hill tribes
Sapa's stunning alpine scenery is home to several hill tribe villages where life continues pretty
much unchanged. Many can be reached by jeep but to get to the more remote villages be

12. prepared to hike. The reward is an overnight in a stilthouse with a family resplendent in riotously
colourful traditional costume.