The document summarizes trends from London Fashion Week 2011, noting that a lack of clear trends was prominent. Dark colors were prevalent but with flashes of bright colors and neon accents. Sportswear incorporated elements of haute couture with luxe fabrics. Multiple designers referenced anti-trend or anti-sexiness influences, with some presenting styles inspired by elderly women's fashions like crochet and sensible footwear. Overall, a sense of refinement and individuality emerged over strict adherence to trends.

1. L O N D ON FA S H I O N W E E K
LONDON
FASHION REPORTING FROM
FASHION’S FRONT LINE
WEEK 2011
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ISSUE N O 4, LONDON FASHION WEEK AUTUMN/ WINTER 2011 IN ASSOCIATION WITH WEDNESDAY 23 FEBRUARY 2011
THE FASHION MOMENT A quiet moment backstage yesterday at the Mary Katrantzou A/W 11 catwalk show (see page 5 for catwalk review). Photography by Anna Bauer
The biggest trend of them Granny
The Chanel effect all? The no-trend trend knows best
REPORT BY HEATH BROWN who thinks hijacking such a style is REPORT BY JULIA ROBSON any age, anywhere. I welcome it. NOTED BY DAVID HAYES
“A Chanel cardigan is all I’ve ever ultimately subversive. The memorial-like installation with Designers may not all be doing the You might have caught sight of
wanted to wear,” said Edward The Topshop-venue catwalk was its wilting flowers at Meadham same story, but there’s still enough them out of the corner of your
Meadham, backstage at Meadham strewn with car-crash memorials Kirchho said it all: RIP trends. The to fill pages of magazines, women’s eye, with their prim, buttoned-up
Kirchho . Design partner Benjamin tied to fallen fences, in remembrance days of judging a season by its wardrobes and stores.” layers, fingerless gloves, long dresses
Kirchho is also a fan. “Her clothes of the duo’s past collection. But as identikit, box-ticking “looks” are Central Saint Martins’ Professor and sensible boots, and for a second
were revolutionary,” he told us. “The soon as the the army of models came over. “I don’t give a s**t about Louise Wilson has the last word. perhaps thought a coach-load of
whole look became the bourgeoisie’s marching out, a whole new mood trends,” rasped Benjamin Kirchho “Where is fashion heading? If OAPs had hit fashion week. But
uniform for a while, but now they was set. Cue lace beneath wool skirts post-show, which was yet another I knew that I’d be extremely rich if you look a little closer, those
just want a piece of subculture.” and coats (in boyish Coco-esque that demanded to be viewed as a and very thin. The pressures on loveable-looking “grannies” turn
With an aim to reclaim the true silhouettes). A classy collection that separate entity orbiting Planet young designers today are so out to be a whole lot younger.
spirit of their fashion idol, the design was just that little bit more Fashion. “Trends are invented to intense, it’s a miracle they are still “For me it’s about anti-sexiness,
duo hope to re-invent the Coco look Shoreditch than Sloane Square. make women feel bad about this driven and creative.” a backlash against the Wag look,”
of old in a fresh London way. “It’s themselves, created solely for the said 24-year-old Fashion Junior-at-
not about trends,” said Meadham, Photography by catwalking.com purpose of business,” he ranted. Photography by catwalking.com Large George Langford of the
Last year, when global-trends emerging little-old-lady trend.
Your handy at-a-glance round-up forecaster David Wolfe predicted
a style “standstill”, it was barely
reported. Now it appears to be true.
“I’m a platinum blonde and don’t
want to be obviously sexy, so
wearing a grannyish dress makes
REPORT BY HEATH BROWN Darks are always an A/W staple, “Trends are exhausted,” said designer the perfect contradiction.”
So many ideas, so many trends and DARK COLOURS but this season they were sludgy in Christian Blanken, following a The trend has even taken
not a glaringly obvious theme in tone, which contrasted with flashes collection he explained, was “more doddery steps on the catwalk this
sight. But hey, that’s London for you,
ARE ALWAYS of electric colour and accents of of an attitude than one look”. week. “It was all about my granny’s
always brimming with creativity. So AN A/W STAPLE, neon to uplift any outfit. Sportswear “I’d say currently fashion is favourite things,” said Henry
what were the key looks this week? met haute in a new take on luxe, about maximal minimalism,” said Holland of his budgies, bingo and
Fabrics were intended to jar with
BUT THIS SEASON while other dress-down themes were fashion journalist Elizabeth crochet collection. Even Christopher
one another: rich, shiny velvet THEY WERE given a makeover, with arts-and-crafts Saltzman. “London has always been Kane opened with crochet, though
combined with fine gossamer techniques reworked with finesse. divided about trends. Look at the was quick to quash any thoughts of
chi on and heavy leather did not
SLUDGY IN TONE If one overall feel can be found, many villages in this city, east “old lady” inspiration.
look amiss worn with soft knits. It’s WITH FLASHES it’s refinement. London has finally London being one town, one If really old is starting to look
all about mixed media – and sleeves grown up and realised wacky ideas country, even. My favourite shows really new just now, perhaps it’s
in contrasting material, which
OF ELECTRIC alone cannot a successful business of the week are Erdem, Mary because the over-60s rarely dress
looked like another garment was COLOUR AND make. True creativity reigns. Katrantzou and David Koma. Not that way any more – and as we all
being worn beneath. Textured fur one has a similar thing going on and know, rarity in fashionland is always
next to fine felted wool? No problem.
ACCENTS OF NEON See pics at lfwdaily.com yet all three would suit any person, a plus point.

2. 2 NEWS LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Wednesday 23 February 2011
LFW THE DAILY CREDITS THE DAILY SHOP
His ’n’ hers has never been such fun.
Editor
Compiled by VICTORIA BAIN,
CAT CALLENDER
Junior Style Editor, The Daily Telegraph
Deputy Editor & Chief Sub Editor
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Art Director & Designer HIS
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Reporters
DAVID HAYES, JULIA ROBSON,
HEATH BROWN, MARION HUME,
SUSANNA LAU
Beauty Correspondents
ANNABEL MEGGESON, JESS HOGAN
Guest Contributors
LINDA GRANT, EMMA LOFSTROM,
PHILIPPA WILLIAMS
Staff Photographers
T-SHIRT, £40
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For advertising enquiries, By Julie Verhoeven
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How not to make a fash prat
CONGRATS TO CHRIS! of yourself via live stream
REPORT BY MARION HUME nothing to those in Dubai or Taipei
There is no such thing as who have logged on to shop the
“fashionably late” in the world of show). Rule 2: Dress appropriately.
SHOPPER, £140
live streaming. In ye olde days, If you are wearing an LED-
Natthakur London
the bigger the designer, the later the illuminated jacket, either disconnect
(notonthehighstreet.com)
show (Marc Jacobs was once two the power source or turn the thing
hours late in New York). Today, inside out. Designers don’t want
designers flex their muscles by Christmas-tree sparkle distracting
being bang on time. from their clothes. Rule 3: If in
And so, some newly minted doubt as to how to behave, copy
catwalk etiquette for the iPad era. Julia Restoin Roitfeld, who gets top
Rule 1: Be there (that you are stuck marks for her immaculate front-row
in tra c en route to Burberry means demeanour and her serious shoes.
Hip to be dipped CARDIGAN, £29.90
REPORT BY JULIA ROBSON says Verhoeven, adding that her Mango (mango.com)
Hoxton and Dalston are being transformation occurred (shock
represented in the smarter environs horror!) not East but in Chelsea, at
of London’s West End by means of go-to salon Real Hair, whose clients
dip-dyed “crusty” hair. include Alexandra Shulman.
Creative crusties sporting the Nura Khan, stylist at The Sunday BELT, £49
latest fashion prerequisite, a barnet Times Style, reveals her purple-dyed Toast (toast.co.uk)
in dip-dyed shades of rinsed-out ends were tended by Dalston dip-
pink, smudgy lilac or tattoo blue, dyer-to-the-stars and inventor of
with dark roots – obviously – include the latest crazy colour hairdo, Alex
designer Louise Gray, illustrator Brownsell. Colourist and session
Julie Verhoeven, stylist Richard stylist Brownsell is co-founder of
Sloan, PR guru Mandi Lennard and, Dalston salon, Bleach. Converts are
of course, fashion students. known as “Bleachenders”.
“John Vial dyed my hair
pink/indigo about six months ago,” See pics at lfwdaily.com
A case of the cobble wobbles
REPORT BY EMILY FLEURIOT increasing popularity of London
As London Fashion Week closes, shows, have made for sardine-
style medics have issued a warning like front rows at catwalk shows,
that endemic fashion ailments can causing thigh-chafing numb pins,
no longer be contained, with and teeth-grinding.
TRENCH, £275
fashionistas advised to focus on Additional sta have been
LFW The Daily salutes CHRISTOPHER KANE, mitigating the symptoms. drafted in to assist vertiginous heel
Aquascutum (brandalley.co.uk)
With catwalk venues favouring wearers a icted with Cobble Hoof,
winner of the BFC / VOGUE DESIGNER ringside benches over chairs, there a seasonal disorder that strikes
has been a marked increase in around the time of fashion week.
FASHION FUND 2011 Dowager’s Hump, as the fash pack Symptoms range from the mild
stoops to note the Autumn/Winter “cobble wobble” to the more serious
2011 collections. There are concerns twisted ankle, and are often
that some are taking the trend for accompanied by inflamed toes.
granny chic a little too literally. Those wearing sporting brogues SANDALS, £29.99
Crowded venues, due to the should be una ected. River Island (020 8991 4904)

3. 4 NEWS LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Wednesday 23 February 2011 www.lfwdaily.com NEWS 5
Catwalk highlights
Report by LINDA GRANT , Novelist; lindagrant.co.uk
Photography by catwalking.com
THE
BEAUTY
SPOT
MARIOS SCHWAB MARY KATRANTZOU EMILIO DE LA MORENA SIMONE ROCHA
Fashion’s fearlessness has passed across every known If you are on your third or fourth Mary Katrantzou As a woman of a certain age, my heart leaps when I see a For young designers, mash-up is not a state of mind but
The search for imperfection A good lashing frontier. Is there anything it won’t appropriate from the
street? We are long used to bondage and fetish, and
now… the pu a jacket, that garment beloved by people
show, you might have forgotten the impact of seeing her
for the first time, as I did yesterday morning. Trends,
wearable, sculptural, draped – none of the usual fashion
sleeve. For years they have been out of fashion, as a
generation of gym-toned triceps were shown o . Which
is a shame, because the whole of fashion history has
the state of how you live. There’s no longer such a thing
as purity of form, we live in a world where everything is
available simultaneously to be mixed. It’s no longer a
REPORT BY ANNABEL MEGGESON applied layers of lipstick and lip wasn’t so precise. It’s di cult, REPORT BY JESSICA HOGAN mascara into the roots, while Lucia who say they never pay any attention to fashion. Marios words apply to an experience more like spending 15 been that of changing sleeve trends: the floor-sweeping matter of borrowing, copying or even a homage.
Create a perfect look. Now undo it, liner, only to smudge it afterwards. because we’re trained to do things After two seasons on the back Pieroni coated “every single lash” Schwab had elements of all of them. His high-necked, intense minutes exposed to lavish beauty. Everything medieval trains you could hide a lapdog in; the leg-o’- Everything is equal – what you made, what someone
but just a little. That’s the latest “Normally, we’re polishing and perfectly,” she added. burner, defined lashes have made a at Aquascutum for a voluminous, long-sleeved austere wool dresses, banded or sleeved in was on those fabrics: florals, goldfish, lotus buds. These mutton sleeves of the Victorian era. Emilio de la else made. The e ect can sometimes be incoherence, or
mood to emerge backstage this week. blending,” he said. “This time, we It was a similar story with hair storming comeback for Autumn/ fanned-out style (right). Amanda leather, discreet studs and outsize pearls, were the were dresses as Fabergé eggs – decorative three- Morena’s lean, normally body-con silhouette was it can show how things that don’t obviously belong
It was a counterpoint to the couture- wanted the make-up to have a looser backstage at Emilio de la Morena, Winter 2011. And about time, too. Wakeley’s make-up artist Sharon epitome of pared-down elegance, worn with wrist-length dimensional objects that stood away from the body in transformed into a modern-day version of Edwardian together can, in a new juxtaposition, say something
e ect polish of the collections. Raw, feel. It’s easier, fresher and sexier.” as undone ponytails portrayed a At Julien Macdonald, make-up Dowsett actually let each girl apply gloves. There is a mood in fashion at the moment that peplums, cocoon-shapes or a skirt as an open vase dress using crochet, high-necked pin-tucked blouses original. Simone Rocha’s collection for Fashion East
deconstructed and imperfect were If you prefer, you could stop dishevelled romance that injected maestro James Kaliardos insisted, her mascara herself because, as she suits our times of economic uncertainty. It’s the exact delicately holding the abdomen. A sequined skirt was and knee-length pencil skirts. But the most exciting aims for the biggest mash-up of all, between masculinity
the watchwords of this approach, before you finish. “I was going to modernity to the Edwardian-inspired “No girl is complete without said, “you get more on that way.” opposite of vulnerability and fragility; it’s toughness and covered with roses, as if the contents of the room aspect of his look was his attention to sleeves. They and femininity, with mixed fabrics and surfaces, cable
with make-up artists and hair stylists apply the finishing touches during collection. Panos Papandrianos, mascara; eyes look naked without After all, she added, “We switch our strength. Schwab’s colours were strong (mulberry, acid had flown to attach themselves to the body. Looking appeared quilted on a Lurex wool skirt suit, on dresses knit, pony skin, shearling, gingham and tulle. Severe
faux-sabotaging done-up looks. the line-up,” said Florrie White, of hair stylist at the show, released it.” So how has it been updated? outfits seasonally and it’s important green) and his pu a jackets – also seen in New York last at great beauty on the catwalk, you inevitably have to with flattering panelling, and the message was that of tailoring in black wool sat above tulle shorts and panels
At Julien Macdonald, make-up the etched-on lips and imprecise, wisps of hair from the ponytail band Lower lashes are being left clean to do the same thing with your week and at Aquascutum later in the day – may be ask the perennial “wearable” question. But when a the modern adult. The e ect might have been too of teddy-bear faux fur and even fur sleeves. At a couple
artist James Kaliardos was inspired multicoloured dots she painted on for a mussed-up look. “We wanted while the top row is loaded to face. Now that lashes have made a a response to two very cold winters, or a need for woman walks into a room in a Mary Katrantzou dress, demure had it not been for the red satin high heels by of points she sent out dresses that looked as if they had
by supermodel Abbey Lee Kershaw, models’ faces at Meadham Kirchho to reference the clothes, while also the max for a modern e ect. At comeback, I have a whole wardrobe protection. The utilitarian nature of the pu a was she is making a present to everyone in that room, for Charlotte Olympia, which seemed to be a reference to been designed for Ms Flintstone. The shoes were
who came in to the test with half (above). “But then I realised I didn’t projecting an edge.” Holly Fulton, Andrew Gallimore of mascara.” Load up now. o set with chi on scarves, belts and even a belted pu a fashion is a gift not just to the wearer but the visual the underwear that might lie beneath – showing that Perspex-heeled brogues, both masculine and feminine
her make-up scrubbed o from an want them to be perfect. I let the even used a small make-up brush coat with a skater skirt. Next, the fashion slanket. aesthetic of our surroundings. what you cover up can be the sexiest thing of all. at the same time, odd and interesting.
earlier show. Kaliardos painstakingly models go and eat, so the make-up Photography by Anna Bauer to backcomb lashes and shove Photography by Anna Bauer
Susie styles it
BESPOKE FEATURE
REPORT FROM THE EXHIBITION
BY SUSANNA LAU
Irwin & Jordan does the sort of with
clothes that fashion people love to TIFFANY & CO.
airily declare as “e ortless” and
“easy”. What this dress is, though,
is simple with something special
radiating from the shimmery nude
lamé front. I decided to mess it up a
bit with some texture underneath,
courtesy of Bebaroque’s ribbon-
embroidered mesh dress – part of
the Scottish label’s bodywear line,
which is burgeoning alongside its
well-known hosiery collection.
Mawi keeps growing its jewellery
range, and this rose-gold-plated cu
encrusted with jewels is just the
thing to add weight to the grey jersey
sleeves of the Irwin & Jordan dress.
I don’t need to tell anyone that
Linda Farrow does good sunnies,
and these snakeskin-e ect shades
are just the ticket to add yet more
texture to this outfit.
Irwin & Jordan dress, L2
BFC/Elle Talent Launch Pad;
Bebaroque dress, L1; Mawi cuff,
Ground Floor; Linda Farrow
sunglasses, Ground Floor, all at
the Exhibition, Embankment
Galleries, Somerset House. Shoes,
Susanna’s own
Photography by Shaniqwa Jarvis
Dark stars, charms for people to spell out
whatever they wish. Would “M F P
collection, which had no particular
theme but focused on superbly crafted
shining bright
ROX” hanging o my shirt lapel be coats, trousers, skirts and shirts in a
an overkill? Nah… palette of cream and navy. There
I also stopped by Alex Noble’s was a majestic fluidity to pieces such
debut presentation in the crypt as the long skirt split up the front,
REPORT BY SUSANNA LAU at St-Martin-in-the-fields, where with volume created by two arched
As the womenswear shows wind anatomy-inspired couture pieces peaks at the hips, like origami folds.
down, it was time to take a breather were suspended on rails for all to It’s an assured collection from Tait,
today by wandering round the eerily see clearly the intricate lacework who made his debut last season, and
lit Freemasons Hall to see Maria and corsetry that the set/costume on the back of him winning the
Francesca Pepe’s new collection, designer and artist has created. Dorchester Collection Fashion
themed around amulets and sacred The best comes to those who Prize, we’re sure to see more of him.
objects. Continuing to focus on wait, and Thomas Tait’s eagerly In the meantime, I’m already in
statement accessories, she has come anticipated sophomore collection A/W 11, picturing myself wrapped
up with studded headpieces and concluded a stellar week of up in one of his inky navy cashmere
masks encrusted with crystals and LFW womenswear. Sponsored by coats – the perfect winter cocoon.
pearls. I particularly love the rings NEWGEN this season, Tait chose a
and safety pins hung with alphabet fairly low-key presentation for his Stylebubble.co.uk TIFFANY.CO.UK

4. 6 MENSWEAR PREVIEW LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Wednesday 23 February 2011 www.lfwdaily.com DESIGNER PROFILE 7
It’s OK to be fine and dandy Man at work
Designers have one clear message for men this Man Day: grow up! Bin the trackpants and don a dapper cloth and Patrick Grant is the sharp-suited brains behind the revival of Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons’ sporty little brother,
sporty tailored cut. There’s even a smart look for all the new young anarchists out there. Join the revolution E Tautz. And the all-British heritage brand is fast finding favour with modern gentlemen everywhere
Words by GLENN WALDRON Words by GLENN WALDRON
Photography by SHANIQWA JARVIS
fter an hour or so in his of them this season and, hopefully, four next season.”
ell, I think men are label (see interview to your right!) was selected to create a capsule
company, I finally discover For his part, Grant makes a distinction between
fed up with looking unveils a Scottish island-influenced collection for the Swiss brand, to be
Patrick Grant’s dirty little his work at Norton’s and at Tautz. “Down the road
schleppy,” declares salon show (1.45pm, WC2), and rolled out across Bally stores this
secret. “Actually, I do own a pair [at Norton’s], I’m the salesman,” he says, sitting in the
Philip Start, co- the NEWGEN-sponsored JW Autumn/Winter.
of jeans,” he says, sheepishly. Savile Row basement studio of E Tautz. “Here, I set the
owner of Shoreditch’s ever-popular Anderson’s collection (9am, WC2) Showing alongside Louise Gray
“Maybe even a couple.” Coming creative direction for the season. I decide all the cloth
Start boutique. “It’s definitely time is inspired – along with “Smiths and this season’s NEWGEN MEN
from anyone else, such a choices. I don’t design all the pieces, but I make sure
to get rid of all that grubby old fans and Lost in Translation” – by designer Christopher Raeburn
statement would hardly register. everything is a piece of clothing I would want to wear.”
casualwear and smarten up.” country estates. (1 to 5pm, WC2), today also sees
But coming from the sharpest guv’nor on Savile Row With a stress on reinterpreted classics, E Tautz
Making his London Fashion Week Over at MAN (12.30pm, WC2), the return of the conceptual Noki
and the 14th Most Stylish Man In Britain (according shuns radical style gestures in favour of solid,
presentation debut today (11am, and showing alongside Central (Dr Noki’s NHS), launching his
to GQ), it feels like something of a confession. Sensing wearable men’s staples, all sourced from the most
WC2) with Mr Start, a collection Saint Martins graduate Felipé Rojas new menswear line, Pour Dandy.
this, the dapper 39 year old embarks on a spot of prestigious British suppliers. “We want people to
of modern, architecturally inspired Llanos and Thom Murphy’s New Famed for his radical, cut-up
damage limitation (“I only wear them for gardening, return to these clothes for 10, 20 years,” he says.
tailoring, perhaps it’s no surprise that Power Studio, will be east London- approach to fashion (expect a mask
honest!”), but it’s all too little, too late. The cat’s out “There’s something lovely about wearing a piece of
Start is urging British males to ditch or two), surely his style hasn’t grown
of the bag: Patrick Grant is a closet jeans wearer. clothing that’s been passed down through a family.”
the denim in favour of a more refined up at all? “Actually, it has,” he
look. However, he is hardly alone
“IT’S DEFINITELY says. “It’s for all those young
Denim-based revelations notwithstanding, today Grant himself is unapologetic over the brand’s higher
Grant is on fine form – and with good reason. Norton price points (suits start at £1,500, cashmere jumpers
in his endeavours – this season’s TIME TO GET RID protesters you see in the streets.
& Sons, the bespoke Savile Row tailor’s he bought and at £495). “Everything is made using the most
Menswear Day is dominated by These are clothes for smartening up
designers o ering a more grown-up
OF ALL THAT the new anarchist.”
set about reviving six years ago, is now turning a painstaking processes and that has a cost,” he says.
healthy profit, while its sportier ready-to-wear line, “Our knitwear yarn, for example, comes from Todd
approach to man style. GRUBBY OLD If all this sounds a little too
E Tautz, is in expansion mode. In December, Grant & Duncan in Kinross, who have been making yarn
To kick o the proceedings, last mature for your liking, there’s
night saw one of the week’s big
CASUALWEAR AND always Carri Mundane’s Cassette
James Long is showing as part was also nominated for Menswear Designer 2010 at in the same way on the same site for centuries.
of NEWGEN MEN the British Fashion Awards, alongside the hallowed We’re not big fans of fast fashion.”
homecomings, with the Dunhill SMARTEN UP” Playa label. Making her first
likes of Paul Smith, Christopher Bailey and Margaret Indeed, while many of Tautz’s contemporaries
label returning to London Fashion standalone show at London Fashion
PHILIP START Howell. To his great astonishment, he won. Oh, and
Week (sans Creative Director Kim Week today (3.15pm, WC2), after
then there’s the not-insignificant matter of being
Jones) and showing an intimate, based designer Martine Rose, many MAN appearances, Mundane’s
named Grazia’s new Fashion Crush. “You should have
salon-style presentation at Bourdon whose own grown-up take on collection will be “quite gory and
seen the smile on his face that day,” says his PR,
“I WOULDN’T BE SURPRISED
House, its 18th-century Mayfair streetwear was a big hit last season. showy,” says the designer. “It’s called
home. Maintaining an emphasis on “I admire Martine’s refined Carnie Cannibal Palace and is based
Emma, making him blush even more. IF YOU SEE MORE BRITISH
“Obviously I don’t mind the attention when it’s so
old-school luxury, the gentlemen’s- aesthetic and attention to detail,” on Coney Island freak shows and
complimentary,” Grant says, chuckling. “But only
BRANDS BRINGING THEIR
club mood certainly extended to the says Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy. modern-day theme parks.” Alongside
clothes, which included cashmere “Her stunning installation at the last a collaboration with British heritage
when it helps the business. We’ve always been really STUFF BACK TO THE UK SOON”
motivated, but the [Menswear] award has brought us
overcoats and mohair blazers. Fashion Week was put together with label Lavenham, Mundane says
opportunities we’d never considered before.” The
Among the 30-odd brands sensitivity and intelligence.” she has tried to introduce more
whirlwind of press coverage following the award also are now looking abroad for the manufacture of their
presenting today, the grown-up Craig Green is yet another tailoring this time. “Has my style
saw Grant ru ing a few Middle England feathers, “quintessentially British” brands, Grant is sticking
theme continues: Topman Design sophisticated streetwear talent to matured a little? I suppose it has,”
after declaring in one newspaper that British men to his guns. “At this point, we feel no pressure,” he
has its second standalone show watch. Following a collaboration she says, before pausing. “Actually,
should smarten up their act. “I do have a strong says. “If we were greedy, we could move our shirt-
A look from the new Rake collection, which (10.15am, WC2), while Patrick between Bally and Central Saint what am I saying? It’s more Illustration for a Bally shoe, designed in collaboration
opinion on things and don’t mind expressing it,” he says. making to Italy or Portugal or wherever. But we are
will be presented at 6.30pm in W1 Grant’s award-winning E Tautz Martins (3pm, W1), the BA student delinquent than ever!” with Central Saint Martins student Craig Green
“We’re gonna be out there saying, ‘Buy more tailoring,’ proud that every single piece in the collection is
and might do it in a way that is a bit polemical and made in the UK. And actually, I wouldn’t be surprised
could wind people up. But anyone who looks at what if you see a lot more British brands bringing their
we do should understand where we’re coming from.” stu back into the UK soon, because their customers
How he came to be one of the key figures of Savile are increasingly asking questions about where
Row’s recent renaissance surely deserves a recap. things come from.”
Raised in Edinburgh, Grant took a degree in Material With a distinctly mid-Seventies vibe coming
Science at Leeds University before working in a series through in the layered polo-neck-and-shirt
of lucrative marketing jobs throughout his twenties combinations, short blouson jackets and – as one
and early thirties. In spring 2004, while studying for might expect – impeccably cut trousers, the Autumn/
an MBA at Oxford, Grant famously saw an ad posted Winter 2011 collection Grant will unveil today at
in the Financial Times for the sale of Norton & Sons, his Royal Opera House presentation also takes
an esteemed yet ailing 19th-century tailoring house, inspiration from an emphatically British source. “The
formerly beloved of Emperor Wilhelm of Prussia and colour palette is informed by an amazing trip I took in
Winston Churchill. With no direct experience of the autumn to the Isle of Mull in the Inner Hebrides,”
tailoring or indeed the fashion industry (“but an he says. “All these incredibly rich colours of burnt
enormous love of old British brands”), Grant decided seaweed and lichen, Atlantic oaks and old trawlers…”
to attempt to buy the house. Alongside rainwear made exclusively by Macintosh,
To most people, such a move would seem like the collection also sees the resurrection of the hand-
an act of serious bravery (or indeed lunacy). The applied heraldic crests used in the debut Tautz
Illustrations for Hardy Amies, whose salon show Lou Dalton is showing as part Dr Noki’s NHS is showing as part
unflappable Mr Grant seems to have taken it all in his collection. “We’ve created simple pieces you should
is at 6.30pm in W1 of NEWGEN MEN of NEWGEN MEN
stride. “Actually, it didn’t feel brave or crazy at all,” Grant’s timing was spot on – his arrival in Savile Row be able to go back to for years and years,” he says.
says the designer, who currently lives on an island on
“I MADE SURE THAT chimed perfectly with a renewed interested in the So what of the future? Having worked “something
the River Lea in east London. “Although my mother EVERYTHING IN HERE IS tradition and craft of tailoring and with an all-round like 100 hours” over the past week, there’s no rest for
did think it was a stupid idea, and why was I not leaving sharpening up of menswear. “It took two years to get E Tautz’s Creative Director or his sta . With the
Oxford and taking a job that would pay me a quarter of
A PIECE OF CLOTHING THAT Norton’s moving again,” says Grant. “Then the brand recently expanding its team of designers, Grant
a million pounds a year, etc etc, it felt entirely natural I WOULD WANT TO WEAR” business grew rapidly, even through the recession.” has big ambitions. “In its heyday, E Tautz had its own
at the time.” Having a long-time passion for all things As well as collaborating with London design talent store on Oxford Street, and in 10 years’ time we’d love
sartorial (he confesses he used to think nothing of set about reversing the Norton & Sons fortunes with (Kim Jones, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll and to have our own House of Tautz, with workshops,
spending a couple of thousand pounds a month on his impressive gusto. It was only when summer hit that Christopher Kane), 2009 saw Grant turning his hand where we do all our own tailoring and shirt-making
wardrobe), Grant decided to analyse the successful his confidence began to ebb somewhat. “Summer on to ready-to-wear with the relaunch of the E Tautz line. in-house.” There won’t be an E Tautz denim line
reinvention of English brands, such as Burberry and Savile Row is always a strange time, because all your A long-forgotten English brand famed for its hunting coming any time soon, but things are clearly heading
Barbour, for his degree dissertation and apply that core customers are away,” he explains. “So you make breeches, the Norton’s-owned subsidiary had lain in the right direction. “I want everything I’m doing to
knowledge to relaunch Norton & Sons. “The business all this stu and nobody comes to collect it and dormant for years and was ripe for renewal. For be successful, but I’m content with where I am right
was on its last legs and it seemed to me terribly sad,” nobody comes to order. You think, ‘Christ, when’s Grant, a self-confessed “sports obsessive” who once now,” Grant says. “We’ve come a long way in a short
he says. “But it also seemed that, despite my having the money coming in?’ and the bank account goes represented Scotland at junior-level rugby, this space of time and if we carry on doing what we’re
no knowledge of tailoring, what it needed was a bit of down to nothing. The first few summers were really, sportier brand also had a strong appeal. “We started it doing, we should be all right. Fingers crossed.”
energy and refocus. It didn’t feel like a huge stretch.” really hairy for us and there were quite a few nail- on a tailor’s board at the back of Norton’s,” he recalls.
Having bought the Savile Row tailors for an biting moments when I thought we were done for.” “I had a very simple plan when we started. I wanted to E Tautz’s A/W 11 salon show starts at 1.45pm today
undisclosed, yet not especially exorbitant, figure It was also around this period that the financial sell to the best stores in a dozen cities in the world. in WC2. Stockists: etautz.com, Harrods, Matches,
Mood board for Patrick Grant’s E Tautz salon show, Horace’s presentation is at Mood board and look by Agi&Sam, whose collection
(“You could pay more for a car,” he observes), Grant downturn really began to take hold, but in many ways I had a target list of six stores and we will be in three mrporter.com, Selfridges
which is at 1.45pm in WC2 1.30pm in WC2 is showing from 1 to 5pm in WC2
BESPOKE FEATURE
PHOTOGRAPHY RESEARCH BY JESS SWINTON
Oh the joy, two trends in one. Wi
t? Tick. Boudoir? Tick. These sto
the-hassle are the perfect antido ckings-without-
te to last season’s yadda-yadda mi
postmodern. But then we always nimalism. And so
did like a bit of philosophy with
our fashion.
Think style, think
Pretty Suspended tights, £8.50,
facebook.com/prettypolly
Pretty Polly
Astrid Andersen is showing with Omar Kashoura’s presentation Marwood’s man accessories, showing as part of NEWGEN MEN Katie Eary’s presentation is from
Fashion East Men is at 11.45am in WC2 & Fashion East Men, 1 to 5pm in WC2 2 to 4pm in WC2

5. 8 PORTFOLIO LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Wednesday 23 February 2011 www.lfwdaily.com NEWS 9
18 minutes in pictures The purl-y queens
REPORT BY MARION HUME at Vauxhall Fashion Scout: earthy it should be stated that any show
Classics nouveaux
Photography by ANNA BAUER
Let’s call this “knit one, purl one”, yet dazzling creations that reek of that features Celtic drumming and
because there are two di erent dyeing handwoven hemp cloth with models wearing mohawks made out
patterns to explore. woad over a fire down in the byre. of twigs has me at “hello”. But even
On the one hand, rib, as I believe You could view the (not really the hardest heart would have melted
knitters term it, is the obsession homemade) woolly wonders at the at the multi-ethnic, modern-meets- EDITH PIAF & GILT
with “handicraft” that is not “big” shows as a lament for lost trad delights of Goa-vibrant lava- CHAIRS AT ROKSANDA
homemade, à la Christopher Kane. crafts, for skills that used to be as lamp prints teamed with Aran-knit Music to our ears.
On the other, craft techniques that British as a biscuit tin, yet have playsuits that featured old-fashioned Easy on the lumbar
are still the result of happy hands at become exotic and rare. Hence the plaited buttons. (Hyrnes lives in the
home, by the kind of folk to be found fascination with something that is, west of Ireland and New Delhi.) FASHION PRESCIENCE
in the international community of these days, hard to achieve. So bring me my jazzy- PM’s wife in leather skirt.
etsy.com, which you must explore. But oh, to be in Ireland, home of bright, digitally printed silk-jersey Go, N o 10!
Here, I draw your attention to the Hynes and Steele (the latter on a gown, accessorised with a hand-
unfettered collaborative collection duck farm in County Monaghan – knit, Waterford Crystal-encrusted FRONT-ROW ROMANCE
by Joanne Hynes and Helen Steele it’s true). In the interests of fairness, Warrior Queen snood! Single-‐stem roses at Meadham
BACKSTAGE AT GILES
Kate shall go to the ball! HAUTE TEA
Lemon-‐curd Swiss roll,
iced buns and choco-‐dip
The Royal Courts REPORT BY JULIA ROBSON think ahead to next season when REPORT BY DAVID HAYES larger-than-life size, stuck them on shortbread at Fashion East
of Justice, WC2 While there might not have actually Sam Cam and, it has to be said, even “As a woman, I’m always thinking the wall and literally cut them up and
Monday, 7.30pm been a catwalk show staged in Anna Wintour must stand aside to about what I want to wear and played around with the proportions,’ FORECOURT FASHION
Westminster Abbey, we feel LFW let bona fide royalty – rather than where I want to wear it,” said Joanna says Sykes. “I even took traditional See our pick overleaf!
has been tapping into royal-wedding fashion royalty – take a front-row Sykes, the first female Design pieces, like those tweed coats with
fever in its own stylish way. pew ( just imagine!). Director of Aquascutum, backstage the button-on collars, and used that
Mary Katrantzou’s joyful display There has been something of the after her stellar debut collection for idea to attach sections of pu a BAROMETER
of pageantry-type prints – fleurs-de- palace about so many collections, the oh-so-British brand. “I just jacket onto the trenchcoats.”
lis, Tudor roses, crown jewels (well, particularly in the case of Giles wanted to take English heritage and This cut-and-paste approach MODEL SHOE
diamonds) – and regal details, like (left) and Corrie Nielsen, with their make it really modern.” And, with to heritage resulted in an ultra- MALFUNCTION
panniers, tapestry-esque knits and sweeping ballgowns and ru s. And a label that dates back to 1851, luxurious collection of desirable We feel your pain
velvet skirts (which looked like they how appropriate that velvet is back that means there is an awful lot modern classics: e ortless wool,
could have been run up from in fashion. Perfect for a certain of heritage for her to reinvent. neoprene, leather and shearling “NO PHOTOGRAPHS!”
curtains in Clarence House), whets princess, perhaps? “We started with all those essential trenchcoats, often with those attached Honestly, celebs, if you don’t
the appetite for the Big Day: 29 April. winter pieces – the trenchcoat, splices of pu a; cropped peacoats want to be pictured, stay in
Wedding dress aside, LFW must Photography by catwalking.com the peacoat – photocopied them to layered over mannish jackets and
trousers; short wrap shearling TOXIC SCENT
I’m with the brand IT WAS A REMIX
OF DELICIOUSLY
skirts; plus raglan-line sleeveless
leather gilets and simple shifts
softened by wafts of chi on. The
Our throats burned and
our eyes watered at
a certain venue
REPORT BY ALISON BISHOP journeys with Burberry Prorsum.” Michael Mok, Buyer, Joyce, Hong colour palette was an equally
A host of international buyers is in Sarah Lerfel, Owner, Colette: Kong: “David Koma was my highlight.
OFFBEAT modern remix of deliciously o eat FAST FAST FAST
attendance this season. The Daily “Mary Katrantzou is my favourite We’ve bought his collection from NEUTRALS – neutrals – flesh tones and been- Now even photographers can’t
listens in on their new-season tips. designer in London. I loved her rich day one and he’s moved on so much. through-the-wash beiges – lit up with capture the moment
Barneys’ Creative Ambassador baroque florals. And Giles is another I loved the laser-cut techniques and
FLESH TONES AND hits of bright orange and cobalt blue.
at Large, Simon Doonan, says, “I’m reason I come here – I loved his the contrast of leather with wool. BEEN -THROUGH- “I love menswear-inspired pieces, THE END IS NIGH
a London Fashion Week virgin and dark, sombre mood this season.” The polka dots were so strong – our but when I looked at the collection But, hey, see you
Christopher Kane was my first show. Humberto Leon, Co-owner, customers are fashion forward and
THE -WASH it all seemed too masculine at first,” next season
It was the shizza! I loved all the crochet Opening Ceremony: “London labels they love London collections like his.” BEIGES – LIT UP said Sykes. “That’s why I added the
knits and leather – he’s amazing.” are very polished now. Our highlights Caroline Greer, Fashion Director, colour and the chi on to give it
Ken Downing, Fashion Director, are Christopher Kane’s sophisticated Tsvetnoy Central Market, Moscow:
WITH HINTS OF more of a womanly sensuality.
Neiman Marcus: “I adored Erdem’s take on plastic trims, Peter Pilotto’s “I love the NEWGEN designers – BRIGHT ORANGE Women do want things to be sexy –
dark garden florals, and Christopher amazing prints and tailoring, and JW from Peter Pilotto’s gorgeous prints but in a really modern way.”
Kane – our customers love his pitch- Anderson’s cute sweaters and feminine to Michael van der Ham’s luxurious
AND COBALT
perfect polished dresses. And we pieces. London is full of colour – velvet dresses. Our customers love BLUE Photography by Shaniqwa Jarvis.
love Christopher Bailey’s heritage Richard Nicoll is a case in point.” buying London designers.” See more pics at lfwdaily.com
BESPOKE FEATURE
H&M
EDITOR’S CHOICE
JONATHAN HEAF
FEATURES DIRECTOR, GQ
Wears shirt, £24.99, by H&M
Yes, I know, it’s just a white shirt. That’s precisely why I chose it. It’s
true that sometimes a white shirt can be too classic, too drab, too
boxy, but this one has detail. It’s slim fitted, the buttons are hidden
by an intricate design and it has unusual cu motifs.
Worn with the right things, a white shirt works really well. If
the rest of your clothes feel too casual, a crisp white shirt can lift
them. I’m wearing mine with American Apparel black jeans and a
blue denim APC jacket, well-worn boots and a belt. I like double
denim. I go for nothing too zany. I nearly chose a cobalt-blue
shirt with a button-down collar. A bold colour suits me best.
This is my usual style. I love a denim jacket. Actually, it’s
INTERVIEW YASMIN COKE. GROOMING KAREN ALDER AT K MANAGEMENT. SITTINGS EDITOR JENNY DYSON
something I should let go of, I’ve been reaching for it for too long.
Another way I would wear this shirt is with a slim suit and a nice
woven tie, or a thin black one – something else I always wear.
It’s good to get in a position where you’re not thinking about
clothes too much. If you can get it right quickly and not have to
worry about it for the rest of the day, that’s great. I love a long
shower, though. The cleansing before the clothes is important.
I could wear these pieces to see my friends, or to work – unless
it’s an important meeting where I don’t know anyone
or where they wear formal clothes. I don’t normally have to
be suited and booted, but that doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy it.
For example, I like watching Alain Delon in Le Samouraï for his
sharp-suited look.
I love Acne Menswear and I love Lanvin, including the
A/W 10 H&M collection. I was there that first day. I got a furry
coat for my girlfriend. I often meet my girlfriend or my friends-
who-are-girls there. They like to get in half an hour of shopping.
H&M’s basics are great quality and its collaborations are the
most exciting things on the high street. They’re definitely worth
all that clamour, chaos and fuss. I know. I’ve been there.
Clothes available from H&M. Stockists 020 7323 2211
JONATHAN HEAF, PHOTOGRAPHED AT GQ HQ, LONDON,
BY MARCUS DAWES

6. 10 PEOPLE LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Wednesday 23 February 2011 www.lfwdaily.com PEOPLE 11
People day People night
Photography by MARCUS DAWES For more sartorially splendid people, visit lfwdaily.com
THANX AND
SEE YOU
NE X T SE ASON!
SOMERSET HOUSE: ILLUSTRATION BY ANTHONY BURRILL, COURTESY OF PICK ME UP 2011
BESPOKE FEATURE
ME
NEED A STYLE STAT RIGHT NOW?
NEED A
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PHONE DIARY DIRECTORY, YOUR FASHION FRIEND
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is artist in residence, creating new Stay : Hector community, Le Lab, is made for you.
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printing workshop. Collectives, from AND STYLISTS hottest emerging designers to create a
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will showcase a ordable pieces Whether dress or blouse, trousers or
FASHION SPAT including prints, ’zines, tees, books and trench, skirt or bag, it will add up to
No, we’re not talking fash-bitch-gossip here. badges. And don’t miss the exhibition INDUSTRY DATES STAFF ON CALL a complete and inspiring statement
We’re just loving this VICTORIAN-ESQUE of rising-star illustrators commissioned wardrobe. Subscribers can vote for
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which gives us a well-turned ankle to, er, From 17 to 27 March 2011 at Get listed. Get in touch. item from any of the winning talents.
boot. We’ll wear ours with anything from the Embankment Galleries. Visit 20,000 fashion facts at your service. The possibilities are endless. We’d
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Designer notes
in store and online from September; LF W THE DAILY Visit brandalley.co.uk/lelab
marksandspencer.com
COCK AND BALL STORY
Your Daily provocative-art fix: JULIE VERHOEVEN’s
Cocky Bastard canvas, with embroidery by Laura Lees,
Used up all your inspiration on Fashion Week? as seen in The Dandie’s Ball group exhibition at the
London gallery Ritter/Zamet – a cabinet of curiosities
The Daily is on hand with enough cultural dos and of 19th-century and contemporary art and ephemera.
dates to fuel your next few seasons Until 26 Feb, Ritter/Zamet, Unit 8, 80a Ashfield
Street, E1 (zitterzamet.com; julieverhoeven.com)
PERMISSION
TO POUT
Make your Fashion Week go further by
sashaying along to H&M, 234 Regent
Street, W1, from 2 to 6pm on SAT, 26 FEB to
MORE TEA,
take part in LONDON FASHION EDITOR?
WEEK THE DAILY PRESENTS H&M’S God forbid anything other than
FASHION WEEK WORKSHOP! It’s bang-up-to-date should cross our
your chance to star in your own photo neon-orange-lipsticked lips. A
shoot – you’ll have your make-up done Modern British Afternoon Tea,
professionally and a top photographer from served weekends at INDIGO, ONE
The Daily to snap you in the latest H&M ALDYWCH , is a twist on the trad,
looks. There’ll be drinks, styling tips from on taste and on trend. That fuchsia
The Daily folk and the chance to WIN A Battenberg has The Daily’s name on it.
S/S 11 H&M WARDROBE worth £500. Afternoon Tea, from £26.50, One FOLLIFOLLIE.CO.UK
Visit facebook.com/hm Aldwych, WC2; onealdwych.com