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琴酒的託古改制─談桶陳琴酒
VictorChung 鍾偉凱
講座內容
• 桶陳琴酒發展史
• 常見桶型簡介
• 產品介紹及品飲
• Q&A
琴酒和木桶
• 各種酒類出廠時皆以木桶作
為存放、運輸容器
• 酒液常因木桶影響,微帶黃
色
• 1861 年 Single Bottle Act
容許酒商以瓶裝販售酒類
• 1907 年首度出現透明瓶裝
Hayman's Family Reserve Gin
• 桶型:蘇格蘭威士忌桶
• 木質:美國橡木
• 陳放時間:三週
• 香料:芫 子、檸檬皮、荽
橙皮、桂皮、甘草等
10 種
桶陳琴酒的起落
• 倫敦 Booth’s 於 1970 年
代停產
• Seagram 旗下琴酒仍維持
桶陳,但桶陳時間甚短
• 法國 Citadelle 於 2008 年
發行 Citadelle
Réserve ,並持續實驗
各種熟成方式
Citadelle Réserve
• 桶型:干邑桶、夏朗德皮諾甜
酒桶、美國橡木桶
• 木質:美國橡木、法國橡木
• 陳放時間: 2-5 週,兼採
Solera 式熟成
• 香料:紫羅蘭根、鳶尾根、天
堂 、孜然、柚子等籽 22 種
「桶味」
• 依橡木品種,烘 程度而有所烤
不同
• 美國橡木 (Quercus alba) 內酯
含量高,香草椰子氣味鮮明
• 法國橡木 (Quercus robur) 內
含量低,較具香料、藥草酯
感
• 法國橡木單寧含量較高
Bombay Amber
• 桶型:法式苦蒿酒桶
• 木質:美國橡木
• 陳放時間:不明
• 香料:檸檬皮、杏仁、甘
草、桂皮、香荳 、荳蔻 蔻
及苦橙等 11 種
微型蒸餾廠與桶陳琴酒
• 1990 年代,美國微型
蒸餾廠的數量加速成
長
• 琴酒不需熟成,可快速
變現,有利建廠初期
現金流
• 結合既有橡木桶,提昇
產品多樣性
F.E.W Barrel Gin
• 桶型:波本桶、裸麥威士忌桶、
美國橡木桶
• 木質:美國橡木
• 陳放時間: 6-9 個月
• 香料:檸檬皮、橘皮、桂皮、鳶
尾根、 酒花等啤 11 種
St. George Dry Rye Reposado Gin
• 桶型:葡萄酒桶(格納希粉紅酒
與希哈紅酒)
• 木質:美國橡木、法國橡木
• 陳放時間: 18 個月
• 香料:杜松子、黑胡椒、葛縷子
、芫 子、葡萄柚皮與萊姆皮荽
Q&A
Thanks for coming & Have a nice day!

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琴酒的託古改制─談桶陳琴酒

Editor's Notes

  1. 1674年,英格蘭人George Ravenscroft發明含鉛水晶玻璃。1696年專利到期後,英格蘭的玻璃製造商也開始製造水晶玻璃輸往歐洲各地,玻璃業因而蓬勃發展。英國政府眼見有利可圖,於1746年起對玻璃採重量記稅,英國玻璃製造商因此以生產高單價飾品為主。直到1845年此項稅則廢除後,玻璃的應用才開始普及化 在1861年英國國會通過Single Bottle Act,容許酒商以瓶裝販售酒類之前,所有酒類在英國出廠時都以木桶盛裝,由零售商以單杯銷售,或由消費者自行攜帶容器帶回。 由於英國並不會以樹脂塗布木桶內部,因此在輸送及存放過程中,琴酒會稍微受到木桶的影響而略帶黃色。然而由於當時木桶大多重複使用,也不像陳年使用的橡木桶那樣會經過烘烤,因此對琴酒風味的實質影響其實不多。主要表現在較圓潤的口感上 3
  2. 香料於中性榖物烈酒中浸泡24小時後以蒸汽加熱蒸餾,酒心經靜置後稀釋至指定濃度裝瓶 4
  3. 在Booth’s於1970年代停產後,1939年首度發行的Seagram’s便成為市面上唯一的桶陳琴酒。但Seagram幾乎不強調這點。因此首度發行於2008年的CitadelleRéserve,反而成為使業界重新注意桶陳琴酒的關鍵產品 5
  4. 以銅製夏朗德壺式蒸餾器直火蒸餾兩次後的小麥烈酒,浸泡香料72小時候再經12小時慢速蒸餾而成。直火加熱帶來的梅納、焦糖化反應豐富了基酒酒體及榖物香氣 6
  5. 2014年開始發行的免稅通路限定商品。Bombay僅採中性烈酒蒸汽萃取香料成分後稀釋裝瓶,因此香氣乾淨清新。FrenchVermouth桶的來源最可能是同集團的NoillyPrat 8
  6. F.E.W. Spirits的創辦人兼首席製酒師PaulHletko,2010年將酒廠開設在有悠久禁酒傳統的伊利諾州Evanston,並以曾任婦女基督徒禁酒聯盟主席的Frances Elizabeth Willard姓名縮寫,將酒廠命名為F.E.W. Spirits 2012年首度發行。兼用燒烤後橡木桶、同廠波本桶與裸麥威士忌桶進行陳放。陳放時間為6-9個月。為配合桶陳性格而增加了橘皮、檸檬皮、桂皮與鳶尾根的使用量。基酒榖物基底近似波本威士忌(70%玉米,20%小麥,10%大麥麥芽),因此較一般琴酒更具甜美榖物感。 10
  7. 1982年,出身德國Freiburg的JörgRupf,受加州優質的水果及其他原料吸引,以家鄉守護聖人St. George之名,在加州舊金山灣區的Emeryville設立了St. George Spirits。 2002年。他們將製造eau de vie的方法,應用於伏特加的製造,以Hangar 1的品牌名,發表了Straight、Mandarin、Buddha's Hand和Kaffir Lime四款原味與調味伏特加,終於在美國打響了St. George Spirits的名號 2010年,他們將Hangar One品牌出售給ProximoSpirits,JörgRupf也於同年退休,酒廠由Lance Winters接管,主力產品也轉移至Rum和Gin 2013年8月發表的限量琴酒產品。以壺式蒸餾器蒸餾的裸麥烈酒為基底。使用的草本植物包括杜松子(用量較其他兩款多出50%)、黑胡椒、葛縷子、芫荽子、葡萄柚皮與萊姆皮。將重點置於突出杜松子的辛香調性。 11