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Seychelles, Seychelles
           on the Sea Shore
  Sea, sun, sand and bat stew. Nikki Haynes stumbles upon a little slice of
  paradise in the Seychelles . . .



F
                 LYING into Seychelles’ international airport may not be for    together. It is however more commonly visually compared to a woman’s
                 the faint hearted; the small airport is located on reclaimed   bits; with the male part of the plant looking very similar to a man’s bit,
                 land on the island of Mahe, so you might panic a little        school girl sniggers are guaranteed to ensue! We stayed at the relaxed,
                 – as I did – as the impending clear turquoise waters get       unpretentious and friendly La Reserve Hotel. A family run establishment,
                 dangerously close to the descending plane. This, however,      which is pretty and quiet with bright, tropical flowers all over the place
                 was certainly the highest level of stress that I experienced   and a large collection of giant tortoises that will keep you entertained
on my trip to the Seychelles; everything else about this                                  for hours. The Seychelles actually has the largest population of
archipelago nation in a secluded corner of the Indian Ocean off                               giant tortoises in the world, with around 150,000, and is
the east coast of Africa is unadulterated relaxation.                                           also home to Esmeralda the world’s heaviest (304kg) land
   Travelling with my mum (an NHS nurse who was in                                                tortoise living in the wild. What we loved about this hotel
major need of some pampering), the first thing we                                                  was its small, private beach, which is actually located in
noticed after landing was the immigration desks (a                                                 a Marine National Park. The waters are clear and gentle
strange first observation, admitedly) which are made of                                            and it’s great for spotting brightly coloured, tropical fish.
beautiful pink granite. The Seychelles’ granite and coral                                          It has one restaurant that has different themes each night
islands are the only islands in the middle of the ocean                                          and good food. It’s located on a wooden jetty going into
that are not of volcanic origin and some say that they’re the                                  the sea and is lit up at night, but it’s the mornings that are
oldest oceanic islands on earth. The impressive granite boulders                            particularly glorious. Enjoy fresh fruit, coffee and pancakes in
are one of the reasons why its scenery is so breathtaking; film crews,                 gentle sunshine, overlooking clear blue water with hundreds of bright
models and photographers are regular visitors. These boulders come in           tropical fish swimming under your feet, it’s the only way to start your day
every shape and size and in an array of colours from light pink to black,       and is guaranteed to put a smile on your face. The hotel offers a variety of
and pop up across the picture perfect beaches and amongst the lush green        foodie excursions including big game fishing and an interesting trip learning
vegetation inland. On the island of Praslin (pronounced praline) is where       about coconuts. After our hearty breakfast we were off to Baie St Anne to
the Vallée de Mai is located, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that people          get a ferry to La Digue.
say is the location of the Garden of Eden, due to its beauty and prehistoric       La Digue has a different atmosphere to Praslin; it’s a little livelier with
plants. The Seychelles is made up of 115 islands, 20 of which are accessible    a slight hustle bustle (Seychelles style) compared to the laid back Praslin.
to tourists. The most popular ones being Mahe, Praslin and La Digue, but        The best way to get around the island is to hire a bicycle. Riding around
each island has its own unique beauty and offers something different . . .      the island in 30°C heat is great as long as you remember to take water
                                                                                and sunscreen with you! As there aren’t many vehicles to contend with,
Big seeds and giant tortoises                                                   except other bicycles, ox carts and a few birds with a death wish that
Our first port of call was Praslin, after a short 15 minute flight from Mahe    waddle around the road, you can go at a leisurely pace. There are many
(you can also take the ferry but you miss out on the spectacular views), you    gorgeous beaches to explore, little cafés to stop off at and have a much
arrive on the island that is home to the Vallée de Mai. The national park is    needed rest and cool down with some fresh ice cream. Once you’ve worked
famous for being the indigenous home to the Coco-de-Mer; the world’s            up an appetite visit L’Union Estate. This beautiful estate is home to a
largest seed that weighs 15kg plus and looks like two coconuts merged           copra factory where you can learn how coconuts are turned into oil using


fresh 130	                                                                                                                            		www.fresh-magazine.co.uk
fresh regulars
                                                                                                                                                                                                      fresH esCAPes AWAY


                                                           traditional methods, a vanilla plantation, horse riding facilities and it’s also    Under the Banyan Tree
                                                           home to the famous Anse Source D’Argent beach. This protected beach                 The rest of our trip took me back to the island of Mahe, where we were lucky
                                                           – the most photographed on earth – was nominated as one of the top                  enough to stay in the beautiful Banyan Tree Resort. The Banyan Tree has
                                                           beaches in the world; the pink powdery sands, gentle clear blue waters              resorts all over the world and is known for its five star luxury, beautiful spas
                                                           and pink and black granite boulders make it hypnotic. When you walk                 and environmental ethics. Each resort is eco-sensitively designed, and they
                                                           towards it you’ll notice a little stall that sells fresh tropical fruit salad: do   befit the areas terrain and local community. For example in the Seychelles the
                                                           not walk past! The charismatic fruit sellers cut up every fruit imaginable          villas are hidden, dotted around Intendance Bay, and no villa is any higher
                                                           in front of you, filling the tub till it’s bursting full of wonderfully delicious   than a palm tree so doesn’t spoil the vista. Another green initiative involves
                                                           delights. If that hasn’t quashed your appetite there is also a restaurant just      turtles; Intendance Bay is a nesting ground for the Hawksbill Turtle, which is
                                                           outside the entrance of the beach called Lanbousir. A hit with tourists and         an endangered species, the Banyan Tree has got together with the Marine
                                                           locals alike, it serves good, local, authentic Creole style food.                   Conservation Society to implement the Turtle Nesting and Beach Dynamics
                                                                                                                                               Observation Programme. When you check out of the hotel, US$1 is added to
                                                           Creole cooking                                                                      your bill for every night you spend at the resort, you can choose to contribute
                                                           There is a rich mixture of cultures that influence every aspect of these            or not. The villas are amazing and its tempting not to leave them for the
                                                           islands; it is a colourful and harmonious blend of African, European and            whole time you’re there, but this would be a shame because you wouldn’t be
                                                           Asian. This diverse mix of cultures is also reflected in its food, though the       able to experience the beautiful beach, award winning spa, the four amazing
                                                           local cuisine is Creole. Being a tropical island, fish and fruit are the obvious    restaurants and, of course, you wouldn’t be able to explore the island.
                                                           main ingredients; red snapper, octopus, squid, sea urchin, parrot fish,                 Victoria is one of the world’s smallest capitals, but despite this there is still
                                                           rabbit fish, papaya, pineapple and mango, but other common ingredients              lots to see and do; shopping, viewing some traditional Creole colonial style
                                                           are bat (you’ll see many flying about at night), chilli, coconut and chutneys       architecture, and visit Sir Selwyn Clarke Market where there are a colourful array
                                                           of every persuasion. Curries are spicy but they also love using coconut             of fish, fruit, flowers and vegetables. And if you fancy a spot of Creole lunch then
                                                           milk so they’re quite mild. Also the chutneys are freshly made with local           visit one of the oldest restaurants in the Seychelles: Marie Antoinette. You can
                                                           fruits such as papaya or golden apple; we’re used to saucy chutneys and             also have a cookery lesson and learn how to make traditional cuisine impressive
                                                           regard them as a preserve, but a Creole chutney is fresh and light. The             historic colonial mansion, which is over 100 years old. After a day in town
                                                           main ingredient is finely cut and fried for a few minutes with other spices         head back to the Banyan Tree and visit their amazing spa for some treatments
                                                           and then served. Some other national favourites are grilled fish or octopus         amongst the trees. Out of the four restaurants at the Banyan Tree my personal
                                                           basted with a light sauce of crushed chillies, ginger and garlic or parrot fish     favourite was Chez Lamar, which is fine dining Creole-style. If you’ve tried some
                                                           fried in a curry batter – very moreish! Popular amongst the locals is toddy,        of the local restaurants and think you know Creole cuisine, Chez Lamar will offer
                                                           which is fermented coconut juice or jangle juice, which is homemade                 another perspective. I recommend the tasting menu to give you an extensive run
                                                           alcohol (so watch out as it can be quite potent!) made from the fermented           through, you can try sea urchin soup, bat curry (tastes like rabbit), green papaya
                                                           juice of various fruits.                                                            chutney or octopus curry. And if this has given you a taste of Seychelles cuisine
                                                                                                                                               you can even have a cookery lesson, leaving you with the skills to make these
                                                                                                                                               dishes at home!

                                                                                                                                               Relaxed and rejuvenated
                                                                                                                                               With an average yearly temperature of 28°C, the Seychelles is a great year round
                                                                                                                                               destination, especially if you’re clambering for some winter sun this Christmas.
                                                                                                                                               And you don’t have to spend a great deal: the flight is expensive but there are
                                                                                                                                               cheaper accommodation alternatives; you could hire a villa with friends of stay
                                                                                                                                               at a smaller family run establishment. However, if you are able to splash out and
                                                                                                                                               you want some relaxation in the sun then I couldn’t think of a better place to do
                                                                                                                                               it, you could even hire an island to yourself! No matter where you’re staying you
                                                                                                                                               can appreciate the free, natural beauty of the islands and eat some local cuisine
                                                                                                                                               at good prices. Legend has it that if you try the island’s breadfruit then you’ll
PHoTogrAPHY SeyCheLLeS TouriSm offiCe & rAymond SAhuqueT




                                                                                                                                               definitely return. I did try the breadfruit (with its sweet, starchy melon-like flesh)
                                                                                                                                               and will be using it as an excuse for my next visit.


                                                                                                                                                  Just look for the flag . . .
                                                                                                                                                    La reserve Hotel Praslin: Anse Petite Cour www.lareserve.sc
                                                                                                                                                    seychelles Tourist Board: www.seychelles.com
                                                                                                                                                    Masons Travel: www.masonstravel.com
                                                                                                                                                    Banyan Tree seychelles: www.banyantree.com
                                                                                                                                                    Air seychelles: Air Seychelles is the only airline
                                                                                                                                                  offering non-stop flights from London to Seychelles
                                                                                                                                                    stylish resorts: from £995pp for 7 nights on BB
                                                                                                                                                  including flights with Air Seychelles and transfers. Call
                                                                                                                                                  020 8255 1738 or www.stylishresorts.com (from £995pp for 7 nights)
                                                                                                                                                  on BB including flights with Air Seychelles and transfers




                                                           www.fresh-magazine.co.uk		                                                                                                                                    fresh 131

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Seychelles

  • 1.
  • 2. Seychelles, Seychelles on the Sea Shore Sea, sun, sand and bat stew. Nikki Haynes stumbles upon a little slice of paradise in the Seychelles . . . F LYING into Seychelles’ international airport may not be for together. It is however more commonly visually compared to a woman’s the faint hearted; the small airport is located on reclaimed bits; with the male part of the plant looking very similar to a man’s bit, land on the island of Mahe, so you might panic a little school girl sniggers are guaranteed to ensue! We stayed at the relaxed, – as I did – as the impending clear turquoise waters get unpretentious and friendly La Reserve Hotel. A family run establishment, dangerously close to the descending plane. This, however, which is pretty and quiet with bright, tropical flowers all over the place was certainly the highest level of stress that I experienced and a large collection of giant tortoises that will keep you entertained on my trip to the Seychelles; everything else about this for hours. The Seychelles actually has the largest population of archipelago nation in a secluded corner of the Indian Ocean off giant tortoises in the world, with around 150,000, and is the east coast of Africa is unadulterated relaxation. also home to Esmeralda the world’s heaviest (304kg) land Travelling with my mum (an NHS nurse who was in tortoise living in the wild. What we loved about this hotel major need of some pampering), the first thing we was its small, private beach, which is actually located in noticed after landing was the immigration desks (a a Marine National Park. The waters are clear and gentle strange first observation, admitedly) which are made of and it’s great for spotting brightly coloured, tropical fish. beautiful pink granite. The Seychelles’ granite and coral It has one restaurant that has different themes each night islands are the only islands in the middle of the ocean and good food. It’s located on a wooden jetty going into that are not of volcanic origin and some say that they’re the the sea and is lit up at night, but it’s the mornings that are oldest oceanic islands on earth. The impressive granite boulders particularly glorious. Enjoy fresh fruit, coffee and pancakes in are one of the reasons why its scenery is so breathtaking; film crews, gentle sunshine, overlooking clear blue water with hundreds of bright models and photographers are regular visitors. These boulders come in tropical fish swimming under your feet, it’s the only way to start your day every shape and size and in an array of colours from light pink to black, and is guaranteed to put a smile on your face. The hotel offers a variety of and pop up across the picture perfect beaches and amongst the lush green foodie excursions including big game fishing and an interesting trip learning vegetation inland. On the island of Praslin (pronounced praline) is where about coconuts. After our hearty breakfast we were off to Baie St Anne to the Vallée de Mai is located, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that people get a ferry to La Digue. say is the location of the Garden of Eden, due to its beauty and prehistoric La Digue has a different atmosphere to Praslin; it’s a little livelier with plants. The Seychelles is made up of 115 islands, 20 of which are accessible a slight hustle bustle (Seychelles style) compared to the laid back Praslin. to tourists. The most popular ones being Mahe, Praslin and La Digue, but The best way to get around the island is to hire a bicycle. Riding around each island has its own unique beauty and offers something different . . . the island in 30°C heat is great as long as you remember to take water and sunscreen with you! As there aren’t many vehicles to contend with, Big seeds and giant tortoises except other bicycles, ox carts and a few birds with a death wish that Our first port of call was Praslin, after a short 15 minute flight from Mahe waddle around the road, you can go at a leisurely pace. There are many (you can also take the ferry but you miss out on the spectacular views), you gorgeous beaches to explore, little cafés to stop off at and have a much arrive on the island that is home to the Vallée de Mai. The national park is needed rest and cool down with some fresh ice cream. Once you’ve worked famous for being the indigenous home to the Coco-de-Mer; the world’s up an appetite visit L’Union Estate. This beautiful estate is home to a largest seed that weighs 15kg plus and looks like two coconuts merged copra factory where you can learn how coconuts are turned into oil using fresh 130 www.fresh-magazine.co.uk
  • 3. fresh regulars fresH esCAPes AWAY traditional methods, a vanilla plantation, horse riding facilities and it’s also Under the Banyan Tree home to the famous Anse Source D’Argent beach. This protected beach The rest of our trip took me back to the island of Mahe, where we were lucky – the most photographed on earth – was nominated as one of the top enough to stay in the beautiful Banyan Tree Resort. The Banyan Tree has beaches in the world; the pink powdery sands, gentle clear blue waters resorts all over the world and is known for its five star luxury, beautiful spas and pink and black granite boulders make it hypnotic. When you walk and environmental ethics. Each resort is eco-sensitively designed, and they towards it you’ll notice a little stall that sells fresh tropical fruit salad: do befit the areas terrain and local community. For example in the Seychelles the not walk past! The charismatic fruit sellers cut up every fruit imaginable villas are hidden, dotted around Intendance Bay, and no villa is any higher in front of you, filling the tub till it’s bursting full of wonderfully delicious than a palm tree so doesn’t spoil the vista. Another green initiative involves delights. If that hasn’t quashed your appetite there is also a restaurant just turtles; Intendance Bay is a nesting ground for the Hawksbill Turtle, which is outside the entrance of the beach called Lanbousir. A hit with tourists and an endangered species, the Banyan Tree has got together with the Marine locals alike, it serves good, local, authentic Creole style food. Conservation Society to implement the Turtle Nesting and Beach Dynamics Observation Programme. When you check out of the hotel, US$1 is added to Creole cooking your bill for every night you spend at the resort, you can choose to contribute There is a rich mixture of cultures that influence every aspect of these or not. The villas are amazing and its tempting not to leave them for the islands; it is a colourful and harmonious blend of African, European and whole time you’re there, but this would be a shame because you wouldn’t be Asian. This diverse mix of cultures is also reflected in its food, though the able to experience the beautiful beach, award winning spa, the four amazing local cuisine is Creole. Being a tropical island, fish and fruit are the obvious restaurants and, of course, you wouldn’t be able to explore the island. main ingredients; red snapper, octopus, squid, sea urchin, parrot fish, Victoria is one of the world’s smallest capitals, but despite this there is still rabbit fish, papaya, pineapple and mango, but other common ingredients lots to see and do; shopping, viewing some traditional Creole colonial style are bat (you’ll see many flying about at night), chilli, coconut and chutneys architecture, and visit Sir Selwyn Clarke Market where there are a colourful array of every persuasion. Curries are spicy but they also love using coconut of fish, fruit, flowers and vegetables. And if you fancy a spot of Creole lunch then milk so they’re quite mild. Also the chutneys are freshly made with local visit one of the oldest restaurants in the Seychelles: Marie Antoinette. You can fruits such as papaya or golden apple; we’re used to saucy chutneys and also have a cookery lesson and learn how to make traditional cuisine impressive regard them as a preserve, but a Creole chutney is fresh and light. The historic colonial mansion, which is over 100 years old. After a day in town main ingredient is finely cut and fried for a few minutes with other spices head back to the Banyan Tree and visit their amazing spa for some treatments and then served. Some other national favourites are grilled fish or octopus amongst the trees. Out of the four restaurants at the Banyan Tree my personal basted with a light sauce of crushed chillies, ginger and garlic or parrot fish favourite was Chez Lamar, which is fine dining Creole-style. If you’ve tried some fried in a curry batter – very moreish! Popular amongst the locals is toddy, of the local restaurants and think you know Creole cuisine, Chez Lamar will offer which is fermented coconut juice or jangle juice, which is homemade another perspective. I recommend the tasting menu to give you an extensive run alcohol (so watch out as it can be quite potent!) made from the fermented through, you can try sea urchin soup, bat curry (tastes like rabbit), green papaya juice of various fruits. chutney or octopus curry. And if this has given you a taste of Seychelles cuisine you can even have a cookery lesson, leaving you with the skills to make these dishes at home! Relaxed and rejuvenated With an average yearly temperature of 28°C, the Seychelles is a great year round destination, especially if you’re clambering for some winter sun this Christmas. And you don’t have to spend a great deal: the flight is expensive but there are cheaper accommodation alternatives; you could hire a villa with friends of stay at a smaller family run establishment. However, if you are able to splash out and you want some relaxation in the sun then I couldn’t think of a better place to do it, you could even hire an island to yourself! No matter where you’re staying you can appreciate the free, natural beauty of the islands and eat some local cuisine at good prices. Legend has it that if you try the island’s breadfruit then you’ll PHoTogrAPHY SeyCheLLeS TouriSm offiCe & rAymond SAhuqueT definitely return. I did try the breadfruit (with its sweet, starchy melon-like flesh) and will be using it as an excuse for my next visit. Just look for the flag . . . La reserve Hotel Praslin: Anse Petite Cour www.lareserve.sc seychelles Tourist Board: www.seychelles.com Masons Travel: www.masonstravel.com Banyan Tree seychelles: www.banyantree.com Air seychelles: Air Seychelles is the only airline offering non-stop flights from London to Seychelles stylish resorts: from £995pp for 7 nights on BB including flights with Air Seychelles and transfers. Call 020 8255 1738 or www.stylishresorts.com (from £995pp for 7 nights) on BB including flights with Air Seychelles and transfers www.fresh-magazine.co.uk fresh 131