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Portfolio By Lauren McGarvey
CO-DESIGN IN THE
FASHION INDUSTRY
FDM 40291: Fashion Merchandising Seminar
Section 3
Instructor: Dr. J. Kim
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
1
Lauren Elizabeth McGarvey
1674 Carriage Hill Drive | Hudson, Ohio 44236 | 330.703.7610 | Lmcgarv2@kent.edu
OBJECTIVE
To begin my career in a friendly, positive work environment where I am able to learn and grow upon receiving my
Bachelor’s degree from Kent State University
PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE
Maurice’s, Intern, Stow, Ohio June 2014 – Present
 Learned and performed management functions in a retail setting
 Completed various assignments to assist with learning and understanding of company philosophies
 Participated in weekly conference calls with individuals from Home Office
 Organized and managed an in-store fashion show in order to attract customers and drive sales
 Recipient of one of two $1,000 scholarships nationwide given to Maurice’s interns
BENSON, NY, Intern, New York, New York Sept. 2013 – December 2013
 Performed various tasks in a small business setting to assist day-to-day operations
 Catalogued merchandise and developed inventory management for product stored in the New York office
 Assisted with completing purchase orders and creating invoices to track merchandise
Marc by Marc Jacobs, Accessories Intern, New York, New York August 2013 – December 2013
 Contributed to the Product Development and Production teams for jewelry and accessories
 Checked in and organized samples and prototypes into proper groups, and distributed properly
 Entered essential data into various computer systems
 Filed and organized invoices from multiple vendors for sample merchandise
 Demonstrated attention to detail by comparing quality of samples throughout stages of production
LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE
Hastings Waterworks, Manager/Swim Instructor, Brecksville, Ohio May 2013 – May 2014
 Oversaw three different pools to ensure lifeguards followed proper protocol
 Conducted facility and employee audits and created lifeguard schedules using Microsoft Excel
 Worked consistently as the head lifeguard from the summer of 2009 until the summer of 2012
Kent State University, Student Success Leader, Kent, Ohio Fall 2012 – Spring 2013
 Worked with the Undergraduate Studies Office and Exploratory Advising Centers
 Facilitated and instructed First Year Experience classes for freshman students
 Mentored students with problems or difficulties such as study habits, time management, and personal conflicts
HONORS AND ACTIVITIES
Order of Omega Honors Fraternity, President Fall 2014 – Present
Delta Gamma Fraternity-Gamma Epsilon, Vice President Programming Spring 2014 – Fall 2014
Delta Gamma Fraternity-Gamma Epsilon, Director of E-Comm Spring 2013
Delta Gamma Fraternity-Gamma Epsilon, House Manager Fall 2012
Kent State University Dance Team, Member Fall 2011 – Spring 2013
Fashion Student Organization, Member Fall 2011 – Spring 2013
EDUCATION
Kent State University, Kent, Ohio May 2015
Bachelor of Science
Major: Fashion Merchandising, Minor: Marketing, GPA: 3.55 Dean’s List
New York City Study Away Program Fall 2013
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Resume … 1
Table of Contents … 2
Executive Summary … 3
Literature Review … 4
The Impact of Custom Fashion … 5-7
Business Overview … 8
Brooks Brothers … 9
Black Lapel … 10
Proper Cloth … 11
Line Extension … 12-13
Line Sheet … 14
Mock Website … 15
References … 16-17
3
SUMMARY
For over a decade now, competition in the
apparel industry has become fierce. Apparel
companies look to create that competitive
edge to set them apart from other companies,
and consumers search for that “one-of-a-kind”
product to set them apart from
peers. Traditionally, ordering custom
clothing was exclusive to the
couture consumer, but with today’s
society defined by rapid change
and complexity, the custom item
has become available for the
masses. The acceptance of
technology, new innovations, and the growing
presence of the e-commerce channel has
opened many doors to satisfying consumer
wants more readily (Ulrich, Anderson-Connell, &
Wu, 2003). These factors together have come to
create an apparel breakthrough referred to as
“co-design,” a consumer-producer
collaborative. This collaborative creation of
products encourages the user to create a
product that is more acceptable and
appropriate for his or her needs, led under
guidelines and options set by the designer. The
trained designer creates these guidelines from
the understanding of the product, but the
consumer has the ultimate power to further
develop it how he or she would like.
The men’s suit industry is one that has
explored deeply into
the idea of co-design
and customization.
Men’s shirts and suits
need to be tailored
and fitted to the
individual, and thus
why co-design has
become so popular for this industry. There are a
vast amount of companies that offer a range of
custom shirts, suits and other products, each
providing different selections and benefits. In
this article, we look more in depth at Proper
Cloth, a New York City based start up
company, and why it has become so
successful. Based on the PEST analysis of the
industry, and SWOT analysis of the company,
and the growing trend of co-design, a potential
expansion for Proper Cloth is examined.
CO-DESIGN IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY
“…WITH TODAY’S SOCIETY
DEFINED BY RAPID CHANGE
AND COMPLEXITY, THE
CUSTOM ITEM HAS BECOME
AVAILABLE FOR THE MASSES.”
4
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
LITERATURE REVIEW
Co-design has become very prevalent in today’s
online retail space. The proliferation of online, made-
to-order apparel suggests that buyers are hungry for
customized garments (Jacobs, 2013). Consumer
demand for increased product variety and
uniqueness is one factor that led to this innovation
(Ulrich et al., 2003). Many retailers have latched on to
the luxury trend by customizing fit, style, color, and
other ways to purchase a unique product. In 1994,
Levi Strauss was one of the first to experiment with this
idea and offer custom
fit jeans. It did not last
when production was
moved off-shore, and
shipping costs were
more expensive. This
innovation led the way
for customization in
many sectors, especially apparel (Ulrich et al., 2003).
Today, men’s suits and shirts, sports apparel and
shoe segments are among the highest categories to
offer co-design products. Some of the well-known
companies who offer co-design and product
customization are Nike, Adidas, Brooks Brothers,
Indochino and Black Lapel. Although the co-design
concept may offer many benefits, there are also
some downfalls. Some of these advantages to co-
designing a garment are the wide range of options,
online presence for convenience, and customization
the item exactly to your wants or needs. Sizing is
available to the consumer’s exact measurements for
the perfect fit. Also, on most products, personalization
such as an added monogram was an option. On the
other hand, the delivery times ranged anywhere from
two to five weeks, which is much longer than delivery
on standard products. Many co-design products
were offered at a premium price, but it seems
consumers are willing to pay for product they
created. Since the garments are made to order,
many of them are nonreturnable. With co-design,
options are limitless, but depending on the weight of
the advantages and disadvantages, consumers may
or may not decide to use the co-design feature.
Today, society as a whole is changing.
Technology and new ideas are increasing rapidly,
and changing the landscape of every industry as we
know it (Ashoka, 2014). The apparel industry has been
eager to search for the newest ideas, and co-design
is one of them. Many companies have been
successful with co-design, and many
more companies are beginning to
incorporate this unique idea into their
product assortment. Consumer demand
and competitive edge are two things
that keep retailers on their toes for new
ideas. This new trend of co-design
through the e-commerce channel does
not seem to disrupt traditional brick-and-mortar
stores, but rather add to the traditional shopping
experience (Jacobs, 2013). Co-design is just one way
retailers can satisfy their customer, and design a
product to exactly fit what they are looking for.
“CONSUMER DEMAND FOR
INCREASED PRODUCT VARIETY
AND UNIQUENESS IS ONE
FACTOR THAT LED TO THIS
INNOVATION.”
7
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
THE IMPACT OF
CUSTOM FASHION
In the high demand marketplace of today’s “service-
centered” society, consumers are constantly searching
for that one product that suits their exact needs. But
what happens when there is no such product to be
found, even with customization? Modern technology
and production methods have allowed consumers to be
more involved in the production process of the products
they consume (Atakan, Bagozzi, & Yoon, 2014). These
self-made products and the even set of activities such
as remodeling and gardening, are referred to as “Do-It-
Yourself,” or DIY. According to Wolf and McQuitty (2013),
DIY is the behaviors where individuals engage raw and
semi-raw materials and component parts to produce,
transform, or reconstruct material possessions, including
those drawn from the natural environment (Wolf, &
McQuitty, 2013). The notion of “prosumers,” or people
who produce and consume their own goods and
services, is largely increasing (Wolf et al., 2013).
The apparel and textiles industry is one that has
experimented with custom apparel concepts for
decades, but in the past couple years has increased
tremendously. Many companies, such as Levi Strauss,
have failed with this growing trend, while many others
are continuing to grow. Nike experienced a 25%
increase over a year after launching their “build your
own shoe” in 2010 (Kang & Kim, 2012). Mass
customization has become more popular for many
industries, especially apparel. This concept will continue
to grow while technological and production
advancements are being explored.
The DIY trend has been present in the market since at
least 1912 mostly with home improvement, but has
grown in the apparel industry recently (Wolf et al., 2013).
DIY has proven to be more economical and save
money. Also, not only does DIY allow consumers to have
a say in the production, there are also many behaviors,
emotions and outcomes created and expressed from
this process. DIY allows more value to be created, the
consumer to identify with the product, and also, a
higher chance of being satisfied with the overall end
result of the product.
Some of the ways that DIY is incorporated in the
fashion world is through online customization using co-
design, online screen printing, and “transformable”
fashions just to name a few. Co-design is being used by
many retailers to offer customers the option to
collaborate and customize products under
specifications set by the designer ((Ulrich, Anderson-
Connell, & Wu, 2003). Also, online screen printing gives
the consumer the option to design their own shirts just
the way they would like (Hegel, 2014). Lastly,
transformable fashions are versatile accessories and
garments that allow the user to interchange elements
and extend their wardrobe selection themselves
(Kennedy, 2007).
‘Mass customization’ is defined as “the mass
production of individually customized goods and
services” (Kang et al., 2012). Through this process,
consumers are able to purchase custom, individualized
products, while manufacturers are still able to use mass
production techniques and remain cost efficient (Kang
et al., 2012). Consumers are eager to find custom,
unique products to satisfy their individual needs and
wants, and the response of companies to meet this
consumer demand has had effect on the apparel
industry, and many others.
7
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
Co-Design in Apparel
Since this idea of “co-design” is still relatively new to
the market, many consumers believe creating
customized apparel will be too difficult or too time
consuming. They are also not confident in their own
design abilities (Ulrich, Anderson-Connell, & Wu, 2003). In
order to bridge the gap between consumer
predispositions and consumer purchase decisions,
researchers have conducted numerous studies and
identified the strategy of “co-design.” Co-design refers
to a collaborative relationship between consumers and
designers through a process of interaction in order to
create an apparel product according to consumer
specifications based on pre-determined manufacturing
components (Ulrich et al., 2003). The earliest attempts of
co-design conducted used computer technology by a
professional in a store setting (Ulrich et al., 2003). Today,
almost all apparel categories can be co-designed.
Currently, many researchers are exploring the benefits,
effects, implications and other aspects of customization
in the apparel production process.
Impact on Apparel Options
Apparel customization and co-design now has
greater potential than ever (Cho et al., 2009). Many
apparel categories such as men’s suits, swimwear, and
footwear are exploring co-design options. However, the
success of these options heavily depends on the
company’s ability to handle the extent of customization
in apparel design, development, production, and
delivery (Senanayake, & Little, 2010). Also, factors that
affect the market segment acceptance of mass
customization such as optimum level of simulation (OSL)
and clothing interest could also impact the success of
co-design (Fiore, Lee, & Kunz, 2004).
The Textile and Clothing Technology Corporation
suggests that customization options for apparel and
footwear can be positioned into three categories;
personalization, fit, and design. The highest level of
customization is achieved when the consumer
customizes the design of the garment (Senanayake et
al., 2010). Research has shown that men’s and women’s
tops, men’s bottoms and outwear are the most popular
of co-design categories for apparel (Senanayake et al.,
2010). According to Cho et al. (2009), customers have
identified dressy clothing as more suitable for
customization than computers, cars, and CDs.
Do-It-Yourself Apparel
There are many benefits and also implications of
resorting to DIY fashion. The emotional benefits from
consumer DIY contribute to happiness and product
satisfaction. Because of this positive interaction
consumers may have, it will lead to a drive in higher
consumption. This has shaped the consumer behavior
for many industries, including fashion. There are many
factors that have shown to play a part in the outcome
of DIY. Many find it rewarding, while others see it as an
extension of self. Some see it has exciting and for fun,
and there are some that find it as a means of control
(Wolf et al., 2013).
Creating Value
There have been many studies to explore this
growing trend and these potential motivations in our
shifting society, as well as the outcomes derived from it.
Being involved in the creation of a product may
generate additional value for consumers and add to
the quality of his or her life (Atakan et al., 2014).
Experiential products have been shown to make
individuals happier and increase satisfaction over
material products (Atakan et al., 2014). Sometimes
though, if the production process is unpleasant, the
evaluation process might be different. The actual value
created is directly affected by the perspective of the
consumer.
6
7
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
Satisfaction and Identity
Not only does this self-production help to create
value for consumers, it also creates self-identity.
When a person produces the product themselves, it
changes the nature of the person-object relationship
(Wolf et al., 2013). This means of the extension of
oneself is because of time, effort, and attention by
the maker through the process of creation. The
physical and emotional energy expressed starts to
reflect the identity of the maker, therefore resulting in
more satisfaction. Research has shown that the
conceptualization of the self also affects the
evaluation of DIY and the nature of the experience,
depending on how they view themselves (Atakan et
al., 2014).
Implications
Although the growing trend of “Do-It-Yourself” has
had a huge growing impact on consumer behavior,
there are also many implications that arise. Because
of this shift in consumer behavior, a shift in marketing
efforts is needed. As stated previously, there are
many benefits of DIY, such as creating value and the
emotional benefits, but it can also become very time
consuming and may not be for everyone.
Consumers may have a negative experience “doing
it themselves” based on the product outcome and
how they view themselves (Atakan et al., 2014).
Analysis
Do-It-Yourself and co-design have made a huge
impact on the apparel industry, and are continuing to
increase. These trends offer consumers products that
are unique, and fit their exact needs.
The shift of consumer behaviors to a “Do-It-
Yourself” market place has many benefits and many
implications. DIY is still relatively new to many
industries, while co-design is quickly growing. Co-
design has taken off so rapidly because of the
collaborative effort with the trained designer.
Marketers are also continuing to research the impact
it has on our economy and purchase behaviors of
consumers. The value and satisfaction levels are also
determined by many factors throughout the
development, and it is important to consider these in
the process of DIY, as well as co-design.
Apparel and textile companies are beginning to
recognize this trend, and shift with the increase in the
nature of the consumer-driven market. Companies
have been adopting new techniques in order to
appeal to consumers, and beat the competition.
Many DIY options, including co-design, have
technologically impacted the fashion industry. As the
impact, implications and benefits are more deeply
researched, co-design in the apparel industry will
become even more commonplace.
8
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
PEST ANALYSIS
The men’s apparel industry is
dominated by formal attire. In 2014, 31%
of the industry revenue was generated
from suits and formal wear (Men’s
Clothing, 2014). As the e-commerce
market grows, and consumer
preferences become of greater
importance, Co-Design takes off for
men’s suits. Men’s suit are a difficult
garment to mass produce with the
tailoring and sizing, and this has created
an increasing demand for consumers to
co-design their own suits.
We explore the political, economic,
social, and technological factors to
analyze the business environment of
men’s suits.
P – Political Factors
 U.S. is politically stable,
market free from any likely
changes
 No government regulations
 No trade restrictions
 Standard taxes by state
 U.S. Fair and Equal
Employment Laws
E – Economic Factors
 Sensitive to economy
(Men’s Clothing, 2014).
 Global industry
 High labor and capital costs
 Demand can fluctuate
quickly
 Some off-shore production
(Dineen, 2015)
S – Social Factors
 Majority of population and
Baby Boomers near
retirement, less demand
 Acceptance of more
casual active lifestyle
 More affluent consumers
 Focus on consumer
preferences
 Focus on younger
consumer
T – Technological Factors
 E-Commerce and online
shopping popular
 Instant communication
 Faster production times and
speed to market
 Computerized data entry
 Off-shore production and
outsourcing is popular with
apparel (Dineen, 2015)
BUSINESS OVERVIEW
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
History and Overview
For decades, Brooks Brothers has continued a long American heritage as
the country’s oldest clothing retailer. The company started in 1818, and is
now matured to many products, lines, and channels, and is also considered
an American icon. The original name, H. & D.H. Brooks & Co. was founded by
Henry Sands Brooks in New York City, and later taken over by his five sons and
the name has since been changed to Brooks Brothers. The company began
offering custom made suits, and in 1849 they introduced ready-made suits.
Product expansion began in 1896, and today they offer a vast range of
men’s, women’s, kid’s clothes and home essentials. In 1979, Brooks Brothers
opened their first international store in Japan. Brooks Brothers also gives to
numerous charities including the American Red Cross (Brooks Brothers, n.d.).
Strengths
 Well-known company with a
large market presence
 Good brand image
 High quality, upscale
 Wide product range and partners
with other companies
 Global company in 15 countries
 Looks to enter new markets
Weaknesses
 High price point
 Longer delivery time than
competitors, 4 to 5 weeks
 Mostly domestic production,
more expensive
Opportunities
 Offer other co-design products
 Experimenting with new retail
formats
 Create range of price points to
appeal to more consumers
Threats
 Other companies entering
market
 Less demand for formal attire
Product Offerings
Brooks Brothers offers a wide
range of products in categories
including men’s, women’s, kids and
home. They offer everything from
shirts and jackets, to shoes and
jewelry and even home goods. Their
co-design offerings consist of men’s
suits and men’s dress shirts.
Magazine
An online publication by Brooks
Brothers exclusively on their website.
This publication offers unique
articles that appeal to the target
market such as style, culture, as well
as a Brooks Brothers “Handbook.”
Suitability of Co-Design at Brooks Brothers
Brooks Brothers offers co-design for men’s suits and men’s dress shirts. The options
range from fit, to color, to fabric, and much more. Co-design is very suitable for
Brooks Brothers. They are a large enough company with enough business that co-
design only enhances their current product offerings. It also seems very suitable for
them because they were originally founded making custom clothing.
Cost-Benefit Analysis
There are many pros and cons to offering co-design options. Some of the
benefits are that Brooks Brothers can offer more choices, and tailor the suits and
shirts to the consumer’s preferences. Also, Brooks Brothers started making custom
made suits, so it brings them back to their original roots, and long heritage. Some
cons to offering co-design is the manufacturing. Brooks Brothers offers many other
products, and by having to manufacture single garments, it could set back
manufacturing.
For more information, go to:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/designyourown
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
History and Overview
Black Lapel is a global business based in New York City and
Shanghai. The company was founded in February 2012 after the
founders each struggled to find quality suits and shirts at a
reasonable price. Their mission is to help men everywhere with
the way they dress as well as delivery great customer service.
They deliver custom suits and shirts through e-commerce, as well
as specialize these garments for weddings. (Black Lapel, n.d.)
Strengths
 Exceptional quality and service
 Offered on e-commerce
 Lifestyle guide called The Compass
 Provide ready-made garments
 Global brand
 Free shipping and easy returns
Weakness
 No brick and mortar store
 Longer delivery period, 6
weeks
 High price point over some
competitors
Opportunities
 Expand co-design garments
 Expand retail channels
 Explore other international markets
 More marketing and
advertisement
Threats
 Larger, more well-known
companies
 Less demand for formal
wear, expand co-design
Our Philosophy
Black Lapel promises to give the best
quality, service and content. To them, quality is
their obsession, and the quality would mean
nothing without exceptional service. They are
also dedicated providing the best content and
style. They say style is an expression of one’s
self, and they want to meet your own standard
of excellence.
#SuitCity
Not only is Black Lapel dedicated to quality
and service, but they have also based their
company off of a lifestyle. On their website they
publish a Style Journal called The Compass that
provides inspiration and other articles for men.
They also created the hashtag “#SuitCity” were
customers can upload pictures in their Black
Lapel garments.
Suitability of Co-Design at Black Lapel
Black Lapel offers custom suits and shirts using co-design. Their prices
range from $100 to $150 for shirts, and $450 to $650 for suits. The co-
design at Black Lapel is very suitable for the company. They have
based their company off of products using co-design and creating
them just the way the consumer wants them. Their philosophy has set
the ground work for making co-design a success and also set them
above their competitors.
Cost-Benefit Analysis
There are also pros and cons to Black Lapel using co-design. The
pros are that they are able to tailor garments and also weddings just
how their customer wants them. Giving the consumer the choice and
some direction draws the customer in. Some cons are they may not be
operating as efficiently, especially if they are global.
For more information, go to:
http://www.blacklapel.com/suits
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
History and Overview
Proper Cloth is a very small start-up company based
out of New York City. The company launched in October 2008
producing quality custom shirts and other products on an e-
commerce basis. With a lot of initial hardships and no fashion
background, the founders of Proper Cloth have come a long
way to create their success. Their office consisting of five
employees is located in New York City. Proper Cloth is very
competitive and is constantly looking for ways to grow and
enhance their business (About Us, n.d.).
History & overview
In Store Fitting
Located in Soho in New York City, Proper
Cloth offers in-store fittings where you can
customize your size and also preview fabrics
and other options before you buy.
Strengths
 Best quality and finest fabric
 Personal face-to-face contact
in showroom
 High customer service
 Many different price points
depending on shirt/fabric
Weaknesses
 Very small company, with only
five employees
 Not very well known
 Medium delivery period, 4 to 5
weeks
 Not looking to expand soon
Opportunities
 Expand to more products
 Open more stores or another
office
 Expand company to more
employees for growth
 More marketing and
advertisement
Threats
 Larger, more well-known
companies
 Other companies going global
 Companies with more co-
design options and garments
Fit Guarantee
Proper Cloth guarantees precise fit. They
are known for their exceptional customer
service, and creating a shirt just for you. If
your product does not fit, they will make
any alterations or remake it in just 1-2 weeks.
Suitability of Co-Design at Proper Cloth
Proper Cloth offers custom-made men’s shirts and accessories. The
company is based around designing the garment just for the customer. They
offer almost 400 fabric options and prices range from about $100-$200. The
suitability of co-design for Proper Cloth is very relevant. The company was
based around making custom shirts for men. Although, if they wish to become
more profitable, it would be beneficial to expand their product line and
custom offerings.
Cost-Benefit Analysis
Even though there are pros to operating a small business, there are still
many cons. The pros of this business is that they keep it simple, and don’t mass
produce many garments to waste the time and money to produce items that
won’t be purchased or have long turnover rates. Some of the cons to this
business is that with such a small office, personalizing each garment and
creating it on site is time consuming and not as efficient as larger
manufacturers.
For more information, go to:
http://propercloth.com/custom-dress-shirts/
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
Current Product Line
Currently, Proper Cloth offers a wide
assortment of custom shirts, blazers, select
sweaters, as well as some accessories
including pocket squares, hats, and ties.
Men’s dress shirts are the only products that
use co-design at Proper Cloth. When
ordering one of their dress shirts, customers
can choose from a variety of styles, fabrics,
and colors. Using this same method and
expanding their co-design options would be
of great benefit to the company to compete
with other companies, and offer customers a
greater selection (Collections, n.d.).
Expanding Co-Design
Adding custom made suits using co-design
would be a great asset to Proper Cloth. They
currently have the right target market,
technology and complementary products to
make this idea successful for their company. On
top of that, many of their competitors such as
Black Lapel and Brooks Brothers already offer
custom suits. This expansion would be an easy
addition, as well as generate more customers,
business and revenue for this start-up company.
Styles
Two styles of suits will be offered for co-design
at Proper Cloth. The first style is the Slim Fit (left),
and the second style is the Standard Fit (right).
(Flats taken from WGSN)
http://propercloth.com/custom-dress-shirts/
The Slim Fit is the most form-fitting cut. It's the favorite
for those who prefer a truly streamlined, modern fit (but
it's NOT a "skinny" fit). It is recommended for slim / lean,
average and athletic body types.
The Standard Fit is the most "traditional" fit. It hangs
looser on the body, making it the right choice for those
who prefer a roomier look and feel. Recommended for
those who want a conservative cut.
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
Color Pantone Number Name
2736 C Blue
4 C Black
15-1225 Sand
276 C Navy
425 U Charcoal
Color Offerings
The colors currently offered at
Proper Cloth are very traditional and
classic for men’s formal wear. To
coordinate with the dress shirts and
other products that they already
offer, the colors for the custom suits
must coordinate. According to
Doneger Creative Services, these
classic colors such as shades of blue,
black and tan are forecasted for
Spring/Summer 2016, which is about
when the co-design line will launch
(Color Concept, 2014). While this co-
design line is still new, the color will be
the same for the suiting and the
lining. After this line grows, more color
options can be added.
Fabric Offerings
Proper Cloth is known for
their high quality fabrics in
their dress shirts. When
designing suits, the company
should keep their quality
standards, but also choose
fabrics that fit with the price
range of their target market.
The suits will either come in
wool (which would be a little
more expensive), or
gabardine or cotton (which
is still good quality, but more
affordable). The lining is
made from bemberg for
easy fit and comfortable
wear (Fabrics.com, n.d.).
Fabric Swatch Fabric Name Fiber Content Suitability Special Care
Wool Melton 100% Wool
Coats
Jackets
Vests
Machine Wash
Cold
Tumble Dry Low
Gabardine
65% Polyester
30% Cotton
5% Lurex
Pants
Jackets
Dry Clean
Stretch
Bengaline
97% Cotton
3% Spandex
Suits
Machine Wash
Cold
Tumble Dry Low
Ambiance
Bemberg
100% Rayon Lining
Machine Wash
Gentle
Or Dry Clean
(Fabrics.com, n.d.)
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
Garment Style Name Size Info Fabrication Color
Slim Fit
Made To
Measure
(Custom)
Wool
(Bemberg
Lining)
Black
Charcoal
Gabardine
Cotton
(Bemberg
Lining)
Blue
Black
Sand
Navy
Charcoal
Standard Fit
Made To
Measure
(Custom)
Wool
(Bemberg
Lining)
Black
Charcoal
Gabardine
Stretch Cotton
(Bemberg
Lining)
Blue
Black
Sand
Navy
Charcoal
LINE SHEET
POTENTIAL LINE EXTENSION
(Flats Library, 2015)
(Flats Library, 2015)
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
CURRENT WEBSITE
NEW WEBSITE
Features:
 Garment shown on model
 Help to coordinate suit with shirt
 Suggestions while creating your
garment
 All options on one page to avoid
confusion and easier navigation
 User friendly interface
Inspiration from…
 Brooks Brothers – Brooks Brothers
has an easy to use interface,
and conveniently has on the
options on one screen. Also,
they have their garment on a
manikin, so it is easy to see what
the garment would look like on.
 Black Lapel – Black Label also
has an easier interface than
Proper Cloth. It is also helpful
because it will make suggestions
and offer advice during the
customer design process.
These new features would be helpful to the business
because it is more user friendly. The current website does not
deliver images of the chosen options and most customers
would like to see what they are creating. Also, customers
would like to see the garment as it would be on a person. The
suggestions as you are creating the garment would appeal
to customers because it would be like having your own
personal stylist. Most men do not know what design elements
would go well together, so the additional help along the way
should be appealing to those customers who cannot make it
to the Proper Cloth showroom.
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
ABOUT US. (n.d.). Retrieved February 16, 2015, from
http://propercloth.com/about
Ashoka. (4 February 2014). "Why Co-Creation Is the
Future for All of Us." Forbes. Forbes Magazine,
Retrieved on 26 January 2015, from
http://www.forbes.com/sites/ashoka/2014/02/04
/why-co-creation-is-the-future-for-all-of-us/
Atakan, S. S., Bagozzi, R. P., & Yoon, C. (June 2014).
Make it your own: How process valence and self-
construal affect evaluation of self-made
products. Journal of Psychology and Marketing,
31(6), 451-468.
Black Lapel. (n.d.). Retrieved February 16, 2015,
from http://www.blacklapel.com/
Brooks Brothers Heritage and History (n.d.).
Retrieved February 15, 2015, from
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/about-
us/about-us,default,pg.html
BROOKS BROTHERS, INCORPORATED. (n.d.).
Retrieved February 16, 2015, from
http://www.vault.com/company-
profiles/retail/brooks-brothers-inc/company-
overview.aspx
Cho, H., & Fiorito, S. S. (2009). Acceptance of online
customization for apparel shopping.
International Journal of Retail and Distribution
Management, 37(5), 389-407.
COLLECTIONS (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from
http://propercloth.com/collections
Color Concept: Spring/Summer 2016 (2014,
September 17). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from
http://www.donegercreativeservices.com/en/13
8970.htm
Custom Shirts & Suits. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6,
2015, from
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/designyourown
/designyourown,default,pg.html?lid=topnav-
menu
Custom Suits - Black Lapel. (n.d.). Retrieved March
6, 2015, from http://www.blacklapel.com/suits
Design a Shirt. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from
http://propercloth.com/custom-dress-shirts/
Du, X., Jiao, J., & Tseng, M. M. (2003). Identifying
customer need patterns for customization and
personalization. Integrated Manufacturing
Systems, 14(5), 387-396.
Fabric - Fabric.com (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015,
from https://www.fabric.com/
Fiore, A. M., Lee, S., & Kunz, G. (2004). Individual
differences, motivations, and willingness to use a
mass customization option for fashion products.
European Journal of Marketing, 38(7), 835-849.
Flats Library. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from
http://www.wgsn.com/
Jacobs, D. L. (1 July 2013). "Made-to-order fashion
goes mainstream." Forbes. Forbes Magazine,
Retrieved on 24 January 2015 from
http://www.forbes.com/sites/deborahljacobs/20
13/07/01/made-to-order-fashion-goes-
mainstream/
Kang, J. M., & Kim, E. (2012). E-mass customization
apparel shopping: Effects of desire for unique
customer products and perceived risk on
purchase intentions. International Journal of
Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 5(2),
91-103.
Kincade, D. H., Regan, C., & Gibson, F. Y. (2007).
Concurrent engineering for product
development in mass customization for the
apparel industry. International Journal of
Operations and Production Management, 27(6),
2007.
Men's clothing stores in the US: Market research
report. (2014, October 1). Retrieved February 15,
2015, from
http://www.ibisworld.com/industry/default.aspx?
indid=1066
Pamela V. Ulrich, Lenda Jo Anderson‐
Connell, Weifang Wu, (2003) "Consumer co‐
design of apparel for mass
customization", Journal of Fashion Marketing and
REFERENCES
9
Co-Design in the Fashion Industry
Management: An International Journal, 7(4), 398
– 412.
Sehahayake, M. M., & Little, T. J. (2010). Mass
customization: Points and extent of apparel
customization. Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management, 12(2), 282-299).
Song, K., & Fiore, A. M. (2008). Tradition meets
technology: Can mass customization succeed in
China? Journal of Advertising Research, 48(4),
506-522.
Ulrich, P. V., Anderson-Connell, L. J., & Wu, W.
(2003). Consumer co-design of apparel for mass
customization. Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management, 7(4), 398-412.
Wolf, M., & McQuitty, S. (2013). Circumventing
traditional markets: An empirical study of the
marketplace motivations and outcomes of
consumers’ do-it-yourself behaviors. Journal of
Marketing Theory and Practice 21(2), 195-209.

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Co-Design in the Fashion Industry: Exploring Customization Trends

  • 1. [Pick the date] [Edition 1, Volume 1] Portfolio By Lauren McGarvey CO-DESIGN IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY FDM 40291: Fashion Merchandising Seminar Section 3 Instructor: Dr. J. Kim
  • 2. Co-Design in the Fashion Industry 1 Lauren Elizabeth McGarvey 1674 Carriage Hill Drive | Hudson, Ohio 44236 | 330.703.7610 | Lmcgarv2@kent.edu OBJECTIVE To begin my career in a friendly, positive work environment where I am able to learn and grow upon receiving my Bachelor’s degree from Kent State University PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE Maurice’s, Intern, Stow, Ohio June 2014 – Present  Learned and performed management functions in a retail setting  Completed various assignments to assist with learning and understanding of company philosophies  Participated in weekly conference calls with individuals from Home Office  Organized and managed an in-store fashion show in order to attract customers and drive sales  Recipient of one of two $1,000 scholarships nationwide given to Maurice’s interns BENSON, NY, Intern, New York, New York Sept. 2013 – December 2013  Performed various tasks in a small business setting to assist day-to-day operations  Catalogued merchandise and developed inventory management for product stored in the New York office  Assisted with completing purchase orders and creating invoices to track merchandise Marc by Marc Jacobs, Accessories Intern, New York, New York August 2013 – December 2013  Contributed to the Product Development and Production teams for jewelry and accessories  Checked in and organized samples and prototypes into proper groups, and distributed properly  Entered essential data into various computer systems  Filed and organized invoices from multiple vendors for sample merchandise  Demonstrated attention to detail by comparing quality of samples throughout stages of production LEADERSHIP EXPERIENCE Hastings Waterworks, Manager/Swim Instructor, Brecksville, Ohio May 2013 – May 2014  Oversaw three different pools to ensure lifeguards followed proper protocol  Conducted facility and employee audits and created lifeguard schedules using Microsoft Excel  Worked consistently as the head lifeguard from the summer of 2009 until the summer of 2012 Kent State University, Student Success Leader, Kent, Ohio Fall 2012 – Spring 2013  Worked with the Undergraduate Studies Office and Exploratory Advising Centers  Facilitated and instructed First Year Experience classes for freshman students  Mentored students with problems or difficulties such as study habits, time management, and personal conflicts HONORS AND ACTIVITIES Order of Omega Honors Fraternity, President Fall 2014 – Present Delta Gamma Fraternity-Gamma Epsilon, Vice President Programming Spring 2014 – Fall 2014 Delta Gamma Fraternity-Gamma Epsilon, Director of E-Comm Spring 2013 Delta Gamma Fraternity-Gamma Epsilon, House Manager Fall 2012 Kent State University Dance Team, Member Fall 2011 – Spring 2013 Fashion Student Organization, Member Fall 2011 – Spring 2013 EDUCATION Kent State University, Kent, Ohio May 2015 Bachelor of Science Major: Fashion Merchandising, Minor: Marketing, GPA: 3.55 Dean’s List New York City Study Away Program Fall 2013
  • 3. Co-Design in the Fashion Industry 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS Resume … 1 Table of Contents … 2 Executive Summary … 3 Literature Review … 4 The Impact of Custom Fashion … 5-7 Business Overview … 8 Brooks Brothers … 9 Black Lapel … 10 Proper Cloth … 11 Line Extension … 12-13 Line Sheet … 14 Mock Website … 15 References … 16-17
  • 4. 3 SUMMARY For over a decade now, competition in the apparel industry has become fierce. Apparel companies look to create that competitive edge to set them apart from other companies, and consumers search for that “one-of-a-kind” product to set them apart from peers. Traditionally, ordering custom clothing was exclusive to the couture consumer, but with today’s society defined by rapid change and complexity, the custom item has become available for the masses. The acceptance of technology, new innovations, and the growing presence of the e-commerce channel has opened many doors to satisfying consumer wants more readily (Ulrich, Anderson-Connell, & Wu, 2003). These factors together have come to create an apparel breakthrough referred to as “co-design,” a consumer-producer collaborative. This collaborative creation of products encourages the user to create a product that is more acceptable and appropriate for his or her needs, led under guidelines and options set by the designer. The trained designer creates these guidelines from the understanding of the product, but the consumer has the ultimate power to further develop it how he or she would like. The men’s suit industry is one that has explored deeply into the idea of co-design and customization. Men’s shirts and suits need to be tailored and fitted to the individual, and thus why co-design has become so popular for this industry. There are a vast amount of companies that offer a range of custom shirts, suits and other products, each providing different selections and benefits. In this article, we look more in depth at Proper Cloth, a New York City based start up company, and why it has become so successful. Based on the PEST analysis of the industry, and SWOT analysis of the company, and the growing trend of co-design, a potential expansion for Proper Cloth is examined. CO-DESIGN IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY “…WITH TODAY’S SOCIETY DEFINED BY RAPID CHANGE AND COMPLEXITY, THE CUSTOM ITEM HAS BECOME AVAILABLE FOR THE MASSES.”
  • 5. 4 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry LITERATURE REVIEW Co-design has become very prevalent in today’s online retail space. The proliferation of online, made- to-order apparel suggests that buyers are hungry for customized garments (Jacobs, 2013). Consumer demand for increased product variety and uniqueness is one factor that led to this innovation (Ulrich et al., 2003). Many retailers have latched on to the luxury trend by customizing fit, style, color, and other ways to purchase a unique product. In 1994, Levi Strauss was one of the first to experiment with this idea and offer custom fit jeans. It did not last when production was moved off-shore, and shipping costs were more expensive. This innovation led the way for customization in many sectors, especially apparel (Ulrich et al., 2003). Today, men’s suits and shirts, sports apparel and shoe segments are among the highest categories to offer co-design products. Some of the well-known companies who offer co-design and product customization are Nike, Adidas, Brooks Brothers, Indochino and Black Lapel. Although the co-design concept may offer many benefits, there are also some downfalls. Some of these advantages to co- designing a garment are the wide range of options, online presence for convenience, and customization the item exactly to your wants or needs. Sizing is available to the consumer’s exact measurements for the perfect fit. Also, on most products, personalization such as an added monogram was an option. On the other hand, the delivery times ranged anywhere from two to five weeks, which is much longer than delivery on standard products. Many co-design products were offered at a premium price, but it seems consumers are willing to pay for product they created. Since the garments are made to order, many of them are nonreturnable. With co-design, options are limitless, but depending on the weight of the advantages and disadvantages, consumers may or may not decide to use the co-design feature. Today, society as a whole is changing. Technology and new ideas are increasing rapidly, and changing the landscape of every industry as we know it (Ashoka, 2014). The apparel industry has been eager to search for the newest ideas, and co-design is one of them. Many companies have been successful with co-design, and many more companies are beginning to incorporate this unique idea into their product assortment. Consumer demand and competitive edge are two things that keep retailers on their toes for new ideas. This new trend of co-design through the e-commerce channel does not seem to disrupt traditional brick-and-mortar stores, but rather add to the traditional shopping experience (Jacobs, 2013). Co-design is just one way retailers can satisfy their customer, and design a product to exactly fit what they are looking for. “CONSUMER DEMAND FOR INCREASED PRODUCT VARIETY AND UNIQUENESS IS ONE FACTOR THAT LED TO THIS INNOVATION.”
  • 6. 7 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry THE IMPACT OF CUSTOM FASHION In the high demand marketplace of today’s “service- centered” society, consumers are constantly searching for that one product that suits their exact needs. But what happens when there is no such product to be found, even with customization? Modern technology and production methods have allowed consumers to be more involved in the production process of the products they consume (Atakan, Bagozzi, & Yoon, 2014). These self-made products and the even set of activities such as remodeling and gardening, are referred to as “Do-It- Yourself,” or DIY. According to Wolf and McQuitty (2013), DIY is the behaviors where individuals engage raw and semi-raw materials and component parts to produce, transform, or reconstruct material possessions, including those drawn from the natural environment (Wolf, & McQuitty, 2013). The notion of “prosumers,” or people who produce and consume their own goods and services, is largely increasing (Wolf et al., 2013). The apparel and textiles industry is one that has experimented with custom apparel concepts for decades, but in the past couple years has increased tremendously. Many companies, such as Levi Strauss, have failed with this growing trend, while many others are continuing to grow. Nike experienced a 25% increase over a year after launching their “build your own shoe” in 2010 (Kang & Kim, 2012). Mass customization has become more popular for many industries, especially apparel. This concept will continue to grow while technological and production advancements are being explored. The DIY trend has been present in the market since at least 1912 mostly with home improvement, but has grown in the apparel industry recently (Wolf et al., 2013). DIY has proven to be more economical and save money. Also, not only does DIY allow consumers to have a say in the production, there are also many behaviors, emotions and outcomes created and expressed from this process. DIY allows more value to be created, the consumer to identify with the product, and also, a higher chance of being satisfied with the overall end result of the product. Some of the ways that DIY is incorporated in the fashion world is through online customization using co- design, online screen printing, and “transformable” fashions just to name a few. Co-design is being used by many retailers to offer customers the option to collaborate and customize products under specifications set by the designer ((Ulrich, Anderson- Connell, & Wu, 2003). Also, online screen printing gives the consumer the option to design their own shirts just the way they would like (Hegel, 2014). Lastly, transformable fashions are versatile accessories and garments that allow the user to interchange elements and extend their wardrobe selection themselves (Kennedy, 2007). ‘Mass customization’ is defined as “the mass production of individually customized goods and services” (Kang et al., 2012). Through this process, consumers are able to purchase custom, individualized products, while manufacturers are still able to use mass production techniques and remain cost efficient (Kang et al., 2012). Consumers are eager to find custom, unique products to satisfy their individual needs and wants, and the response of companies to meet this consumer demand has had effect on the apparel industry, and many others.
  • 7. 7 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry Co-Design in Apparel Since this idea of “co-design” is still relatively new to the market, many consumers believe creating customized apparel will be too difficult or too time consuming. They are also not confident in their own design abilities (Ulrich, Anderson-Connell, & Wu, 2003). In order to bridge the gap between consumer predispositions and consumer purchase decisions, researchers have conducted numerous studies and identified the strategy of “co-design.” Co-design refers to a collaborative relationship between consumers and designers through a process of interaction in order to create an apparel product according to consumer specifications based on pre-determined manufacturing components (Ulrich et al., 2003). The earliest attempts of co-design conducted used computer technology by a professional in a store setting (Ulrich et al., 2003). Today, almost all apparel categories can be co-designed. Currently, many researchers are exploring the benefits, effects, implications and other aspects of customization in the apparel production process. Impact on Apparel Options Apparel customization and co-design now has greater potential than ever (Cho et al., 2009). Many apparel categories such as men’s suits, swimwear, and footwear are exploring co-design options. However, the success of these options heavily depends on the company’s ability to handle the extent of customization in apparel design, development, production, and delivery (Senanayake, & Little, 2010). Also, factors that affect the market segment acceptance of mass customization such as optimum level of simulation (OSL) and clothing interest could also impact the success of co-design (Fiore, Lee, & Kunz, 2004). The Textile and Clothing Technology Corporation suggests that customization options for apparel and footwear can be positioned into three categories; personalization, fit, and design. The highest level of customization is achieved when the consumer customizes the design of the garment (Senanayake et al., 2010). Research has shown that men’s and women’s tops, men’s bottoms and outwear are the most popular of co-design categories for apparel (Senanayake et al., 2010). According to Cho et al. (2009), customers have identified dressy clothing as more suitable for customization than computers, cars, and CDs. Do-It-Yourself Apparel There are many benefits and also implications of resorting to DIY fashion. The emotional benefits from consumer DIY contribute to happiness and product satisfaction. Because of this positive interaction consumers may have, it will lead to a drive in higher consumption. This has shaped the consumer behavior for many industries, including fashion. There are many factors that have shown to play a part in the outcome of DIY. Many find it rewarding, while others see it as an extension of self. Some see it has exciting and for fun, and there are some that find it as a means of control (Wolf et al., 2013). Creating Value There have been many studies to explore this growing trend and these potential motivations in our shifting society, as well as the outcomes derived from it. Being involved in the creation of a product may generate additional value for consumers and add to the quality of his or her life (Atakan et al., 2014). Experiential products have been shown to make individuals happier and increase satisfaction over material products (Atakan et al., 2014). Sometimes though, if the production process is unpleasant, the evaluation process might be different. The actual value created is directly affected by the perspective of the consumer. 6
  • 8. 7 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry Satisfaction and Identity Not only does this self-production help to create value for consumers, it also creates self-identity. When a person produces the product themselves, it changes the nature of the person-object relationship (Wolf et al., 2013). This means of the extension of oneself is because of time, effort, and attention by the maker through the process of creation. The physical and emotional energy expressed starts to reflect the identity of the maker, therefore resulting in more satisfaction. Research has shown that the conceptualization of the self also affects the evaluation of DIY and the nature of the experience, depending on how they view themselves (Atakan et al., 2014). Implications Although the growing trend of “Do-It-Yourself” has had a huge growing impact on consumer behavior, there are also many implications that arise. Because of this shift in consumer behavior, a shift in marketing efforts is needed. As stated previously, there are many benefits of DIY, such as creating value and the emotional benefits, but it can also become very time consuming and may not be for everyone. Consumers may have a negative experience “doing it themselves” based on the product outcome and how they view themselves (Atakan et al., 2014). Analysis Do-It-Yourself and co-design have made a huge impact on the apparel industry, and are continuing to increase. These trends offer consumers products that are unique, and fit their exact needs. The shift of consumer behaviors to a “Do-It- Yourself” market place has many benefits and many implications. DIY is still relatively new to many industries, while co-design is quickly growing. Co- design has taken off so rapidly because of the collaborative effort with the trained designer. Marketers are also continuing to research the impact it has on our economy and purchase behaviors of consumers. The value and satisfaction levels are also determined by many factors throughout the development, and it is important to consider these in the process of DIY, as well as co-design. Apparel and textile companies are beginning to recognize this trend, and shift with the increase in the nature of the consumer-driven market. Companies have been adopting new techniques in order to appeal to consumers, and beat the competition. Many DIY options, including co-design, have technologically impacted the fashion industry. As the impact, implications and benefits are more deeply researched, co-design in the apparel industry will become even more commonplace.
  • 9. 8 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry PEST ANALYSIS The men’s apparel industry is dominated by formal attire. In 2014, 31% of the industry revenue was generated from suits and formal wear (Men’s Clothing, 2014). As the e-commerce market grows, and consumer preferences become of greater importance, Co-Design takes off for men’s suits. Men’s suit are a difficult garment to mass produce with the tailoring and sizing, and this has created an increasing demand for consumers to co-design their own suits. We explore the political, economic, social, and technological factors to analyze the business environment of men’s suits. P – Political Factors  U.S. is politically stable, market free from any likely changes  No government regulations  No trade restrictions  Standard taxes by state  U.S. Fair and Equal Employment Laws E – Economic Factors  Sensitive to economy (Men’s Clothing, 2014).  Global industry  High labor and capital costs  Demand can fluctuate quickly  Some off-shore production (Dineen, 2015) S – Social Factors  Majority of population and Baby Boomers near retirement, less demand  Acceptance of more casual active lifestyle  More affluent consumers  Focus on consumer preferences  Focus on younger consumer T – Technological Factors  E-Commerce and online shopping popular  Instant communication  Faster production times and speed to market  Computerized data entry  Off-shore production and outsourcing is popular with apparel (Dineen, 2015) BUSINESS OVERVIEW
  • 10. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry History and Overview For decades, Brooks Brothers has continued a long American heritage as the country’s oldest clothing retailer. The company started in 1818, and is now matured to many products, lines, and channels, and is also considered an American icon. The original name, H. & D.H. Brooks & Co. was founded by Henry Sands Brooks in New York City, and later taken over by his five sons and the name has since been changed to Brooks Brothers. The company began offering custom made suits, and in 1849 they introduced ready-made suits. Product expansion began in 1896, and today they offer a vast range of men’s, women’s, kid’s clothes and home essentials. In 1979, Brooks Brothers opened their first international store in Japan. Brooks Brothers also gives to numerous charities including the American Red Cross (Brooks Brothers, n.d.). Strengths  Well-known company with a large market presence  Good brand image  High quality, upscale  Wide product range and partners with other companies  Global company in 15 countries  Looks to enter new markets Weaknesses  High price point  Longer delivery time than competitors, 4 to 5 weeks  Mostly domestic production, more expensive Opportunities  Offer other co-design products  Experimenting with new retail formats  Create range of price points to appeal to more consumers Threats  Other companies entering market  Less demand for formal attire Product Offerings Brooks Brothers offers a wide range of products in categories including men’s, women’s, kids and home. They offer everything from shirts and jackets, to shoes and jewelry and even home goods. Their co-design offerings consist of men’s suits and men’s dress shirts. Magazine An online publication by Brooks Brothers exclusively on their website. This publication offers unique articles that appeal to the target market such as style, culture, as well as a Brooks Brothers “Handbook.” Suitability of Co-Design at Brooks Brothers Brooks Brothers offers co-design for men’s suits and men’s dress shirts. The options range from fit, to color, to fabric, and much more. Co-design is very suitable for Brooks Brothers. They are a large enough company with enough business that co- design only enhances their current product offerings. It also seems very suitable for them because they were originally founded making custom clothing. Cost-Benefit Analysis There are many pros and cons to offering co-design options. Some of the benefits are that Brooks Brothers can offer more choices, and tailor the suits and shirts to the consumer’s preferences. Also, Brooks Brothers started making custom made suits, so it brings them back to their original roots, and long heritage. Some cons to offering co-design is the manufacturing. Brooks Brothers offers many other products, and by having to manufacture single garments, it could set back manufacturing. For more information, go to: http://www.brooksbrothers.com/designyourown
  • 11. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry History and Overview Black Lapel is a global business based in New York City and Shanghai. The company was founded in February 2012 after the founders each struggled to find quality suits and shirts at a reasonable price. Their mission is to help men everywhere with the way they dress as well as delivery great customer service. They deliver custom suits and shirts through e-commerce, as well as specialize these garments for weddings. (Black Lapel, n.d.) Strengths  Exceptional quality and service  Offered on e-commerce  Lifestyle guide called The Compass  Provide ready-made garments  Global brand  Free shipping and easy returns Weakness  No brick and mortar store  Longer delivery period, 6 weeks  High price point over some competitors Opportunities  Expand co-design garments  Expand retail channels  Explore other international markets  More marketing and advertisement Threats  Larger, more well-known companies  Less demand for formal wear, expand co-design Our Philosophy Black Lapel promises to give the best quality, service and content. To them, quality is their obsession, and the quality would mean nothing without exceptional service. They are also dedicated providing the best content and style. They say style is an expression of one’s self, and they want to meet your own standard of excellence. #SuitCity Not only is Black Lapel dedicated to quality and service, but they have also based their company off of a lifestyle. On their website they publish a Style Journal called The Compass that provides inspiration and other articles for men. They also created the hashtag “#SuitCity” were customers can upload pictures in their Black Lapel garments. Suitability of Co-Design at Black Lapel Black Lapel offers custom suits and shirts using co-design. Their prices range from $100 to $150 for shirts, and $450 to $650 for suits. The co- design at Black Lapel is very suitable for the company. They have based their company off of products using co-design and creating them just the way the consumer wants them. Their philosophy has set the ground work for making co-design a success and also set them above their competitors. Cost-Benefit Analysis There are also pros and cons to Black Lapel using co-design. The pros are that they are able to tailor garments and also weddings just how their customer wants them. Giving the consumer the choice and some direction draws the customer in. Some cons are they may not be operating as efficiently, especially if they are global. For more information, go to: http://www.blacklapel.com/suits
  • 12. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry History and Overview Proper Cloth is a very small start-up company based out of New York City. The company launched in October 2008 producing quality custom shirts and other products on an e- commerce basis. With a lot of initial hardships and no fashion background, the founders of Proper Cloth have come a long way to create their success. Their office consisting of five employees is located in New York City. Proper Cloth is very competitive and is constantly looking for ways to grow and enhance their business (About Us, n.d.). History & overview In Store Fitting Located in Soho in New York City, Proper Cloth offers in-store fittings where you can customize your size and also preview fabrics and other options before you buy. Strengths  Best quality and finest fabric  Personal face-to-face contact in showroom  High customer service  Many different price points depending on shirt/fabric Weaknesses  Very small company, with only five employees  Not very well known  Medium delivery period, 4 to 5 weeks  Not looking to expand soon Opportunities  Expand to more products  Open more stores or another office  Expand company to more employees for growth  More marketing and advertisement Threats  Larger, more well-known companies  Other companies going global  Companies with more co- design options and garments Fit Guarantee Proper Cloth guarantees precise fit. They are known for their exceptional customer service, and creating a shirt just for you. If your product does not fit, they will make any alterations or remake it in just 1-2 weeks. Suitability of Co-Design at Proper Cloth Proper Cloth offers custom-made men’s shirts and accessories. The company is based around designing the garment just for the customer. They offer almost 400 fabric options and prices range from about $100-$200. The suitability of co-design for Proper Cloth is very relevant. The company was based around making custom shirts for men. Although, if they wish to become more profitable, it would be beneficial to expand their product line and custom offerings. Cost-Benefit Analysis Even though there are pros to operating a small business, there are still many cons. The pros of this business is that they keep it simple, and don’t mass produce many garments to waste the time and money to produce items that won’t be purchased or have long turnover rates. Some of the cons to this business is that with such a small office, personalizing each garment and creating it on site is time consuming and not as efficient as larger manufacturers. For more information, go to: http://propercloth.com/custom-dress-shirts/
  • 13. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry Current Product Line Currently, Proper Cloth offers a wide assortment of custom shirts, blazers, select sweaters, as well as some accessories including pocket squares, hats, and ties. Men’s dress shirts are the only products that use co-design at Proper Cloth. When ordering one of their dress shirts, customers can choose from a variety of styles, fabrics, and colors. Using this same method and expanding their co-design options would be of great benefit to the company to compete with other companies, and offer customers a greater selection (Collections, n.d.). Expanding Co-Design Adding custom made suits using co-design would be a great asset to Proper Cloth. They currently have the right target market, technology and complementary products to make this idea successful for their company. On top of that, many of their competitors such as Black Lapel and Brooks Brothers already offer custom suits. This expansion would be an easy addition, as well as generate more customers, business and revenue for this start-up company. Styles Two styles of suits will be offered for co-design at Proper Cloth. The first style is the Slim Fit (left), and the second style is the Standard Fit (right). (Flats taken from WGSN) http://propercloth.com/custom-dress-shirts/ The Slim Fit is the most form-fitting cut. It's the favorite for those who prefer a truly streamlined, modern fit (but it's NOT a "skinny" fit). It is recommended for slim / lean, average and athletic body types. The Standard Fit is the most "traditional" fit. It hangs looser on the body, making it the right choice for those who prefer a roomier look and feel. Recommended for those who want a conservative cut.
  • 14. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry Color Pantone Number Name 2736 C Blue 4 C Black 15-1225 Sand 276 C Navy 425 U Charcoal Color Offerings The colors currently offered at Proper Cloth are very traditional and classic for men’s formal wear. To coordinate with the dress shirts and other products that they already offer, the colors for the custom suits must coordinate. According to Doneger Creative Services, these classic colors such as shades of blue, black and tan are forecasted for Spring/Summer 2016, which is about when the co-design line will launch (Color Concept, 2014). While this co- design line is still new, the color will be the same for the suiting and the lining. After this line grows, more color options can be added. Fabric Offerings Proper Cloth is known for their high quality fabrics in their dress shirts. When designing suits, the company should keep their quality standards, but also choose fabrics that fit with the price range of their target market. The suits will either come in wool (which would be a little more expensive), or gabardine or cotton (which is still good quality, but more affordable). The lining is made from bemberg for easy fit and comfortable wear (Fabrics.com, n.d.). Fabric Swatch Fabric Name Fiber Content Suitability Special Care Wool Melton 100% Wool Coats Jackets Vests Machine Wash Cold Tumble Dry Low Gabardine 65% Polyester 30% Cotton 5% Lurex Pants Jackets Dry Clean Stretch Bengaline 97% Cotton 3% Spandex Suits Machine Wash Cold Tumble Dry Low Ambiance Bemberg 100% Rayon Lining Machine Wash Gentle Or Dry Clean (Fabrics.com, n.d.)
  • 15. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry Garment Style Name Size Info Fabrication Color Slim Fit Made To Measure (Custom) Wool (Bemberg Lining) Black Charcoal Gabardine Cotton (Bemberg Lining) Blue Black Sand Navy Charcoal Standard Fit Made To Measure (Custom) Wool (Bemberg Lining) Black Charcoal Gabardine Stretch Cotton (Bemberg Lining) Blue Black Sand Navy Charcoal LINE SHEET POTENTIAL LINE EXTENSION (Flats Library, 2015) (Flats Library, 2015)
  • 16. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry CURRENT WEBSITE NEW WEBSITE Features:  Garment shown on model  Help to coordinate suit with shirt  Suggestions while creating your garment  All options on one page to avoid confusion and easier navigation  User friendly interface Inspiration from…  Brooks Brothers – Brooks Brothers has an easy to use interface, and conveniently has on the options on one screen. Also, they have their garment on a manikin, so it is easy to see what the garment would look like on.  Black Lapel – Black Label also has an easier interface than Proper Cloth. It is also helpful because it will make suggestions and offer advice during the customer design process. These new features would be helpful to the business because it is more user friendly. The current website does not deliver images of the chosen options and most customers would like to see what they are creating. Also, customers would like to see the garment as it would be on a person. The suggestions as you are creating the garment would appeal to customers because it would be like having your own personal stylist. Most men do not know what design elements would go well together, so the additional help along the way should be appealing to those customers who cannot make it to the Proper Cloth showroom.
  • 17. 9 Co-Design in the Fashion Industry ABOUT US. (n.d.). Retrieved February 16, 2015, from http://propercloth.com/about Ashoka. (4 February 2014). "Why Co-Creation Is the Future for All of Us." Forbes. Forbes Magazine, Retrieved on 26 January 2015, from http://www.forbes.com/sites/ashoka/2014/02/04 /why-co-creation-is-the-future-for-all-of-us/ Atakan, S. S., Bagozzi, R. P., & Yoon, C. (June 2014). Make it your own: How process valence and self- construal affect evaluation of self-made products. Journal of Psychology and Marketing, 31(6), 451-468. Black Lapel. (n.d.). Retrieved February 16, 2015, from http://www.blacklapel.com/ Brooks Brothers Heritage and History (n.d.). Retrieved February 15, 2015, from http://www.brooksbrothers.com/about- us/about-us,default,pg.html BROOKS BROTHERS, INCORPORATED. (n.d.). Retrieved February 16, 2015, from http://www.vault.com/company- profiles/retail/brooks-brothers-inc/company- overview.aspx Cho, H., & Fiorito, S. S. (2009). Acceptance of online customization for apparel shopping. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 37(5), 389-407. COLLECTIONS (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from http://propercloth.com/collections Color Concept: Spring/Summer 2016 (2014, September 17). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from http://www.donegercreativeservices.com/en/13 8970.htm Custom Shirts & Suits. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from http://www.brooksbrothers.com/designyourown /designyourown,default,pg.html?lid=topnav- menu Custom Suits - Black Lapel. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from http://www.blacklapel.com/suits Design a Shirt. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from http://propercloth.com/custom-dress-shirts/ Du, X., Jiao, J., & Tseng, M. M. (2003). Identifying customer need patterns for customization and personalization. Integrated Manufacturing Systems, 14(5), 387-396. Fabric - Fabric.com (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from https://www.fabric.com/ Fiore, A. M., Lee, S., & Kunz, G. (2004). Individual differences, motivations, and willingness to use a mass customization option for fashion products. European Journal of Marketing, 38(7), 835-849. Flats Library. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2015, from http://www.wgsn.com/ Jacobs, D. L. (1 July 2013). "Made-to-order fashion goes mainstream." Forbes. Forbes Magazine, Retrieved on 24 January 2015 from http://www.forbes.com/sites/deborahljacobs/20 13/07/01/made-to-order-fashion-goes- mainstream/ Kang, J. M., & Kim, E. (2012). E-mass customization apparel shopping: Effects of desire for unique customer products and perceived risk on purchase intentions. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 5(2), 91-103. Kincade, D. H., Regan, C., & Gibson, F. Y. (2007). Concurrent engineering for product development in mass customization for the apparel industry. International Journal of Operations and Production Management, 27(6), 2007. Men's clothing stores in the US: Market research report. (2014, October 1). Retrieved February 15, 2015, from http://www.ibisworld.com/industry/default.aspx? indid=1066 Pamela V. Ulrich, Lenda Jo Anderson‐ Connell, Weifang Wu, (2003) "Consumer co‐ design of apparel for mass customization", Journal of Fashion Marketing and REFERENCES
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