New Fashion Trends

T H E M E S &
PROJECTIONS
A / W ’15-16
S/ S ’16
THEMES& PROJECTIONS
A / W ’15-16 &S/S’16
FindingInspiration
Inspiration influences and fashions the mundane into the exotic, or
makes what‘s beautiful, even more beautiful. It is the driving force
behind the budding of new creations at the beginning of all fashion
seasons. Inspiration can be drawn from the most unexpected places in
the heart… from unexplored regions of the mind… from the most
mundane of things… from technological advancements… from travel
to new places….from the vagaries of Nature… from nostalgic
memories of the glorious fashionable past…from a futuristic
projection….from all that’s beautiful and exotic… and from all that’s dark
and mysterious. The list is unending, and the end result is often the
creation of something that is breathtakingly unique. No wonder then
that the fashion world waits in anticipation a s the new season
unfolds.
How will Autumn Winter ‘15/16 define fashion? What could Spring
Summer ‘16 have in store for fashion enthusiasts? These are the
questions that our Seasonal Update/ THEMES & PROJECTIONS
section will strive to answer with careful reasoning and a close
observation of world trends. Fortunately, the intensity of these
inspirations can be gauged at some level through research because
fashion inspiration at large, has a lot to derive from dominant
cultures a s it showcases all that has universal relevance and appeal.
Our consultants from around the world study factors like cultural on-
goings, technological advances, popular activities, artistic
movements, and numerous other happenings that could directly or
indirectly become an important inspiration for the breeders of fashion.
Our readers can make use of these projections in the product
development for the upcoming seasons.
The Seasonal Update/THEMES & PROJECTIONS in this edition of
the book is focused on the fabric, print and silhouette inspirations for
Autumn Winter 15/16, and also offers a glimpse into what could
become a fashion fix for Spring Summer ‘16. The key themes for
Autumn Winter 15/16 that have been incorporated in this edition are
Food, Technology, Culture, Art and Home. These themes have been
further subdivided into micro-themes like Photography and for Food,
Kaleidoscopic Vision; Gift of Glitch and Bioluminescence for
Technology; Russia, Africa and Spain for Culture; Juxtaposed and
Mixed Media.

M I X E D
M E D I A
The urge to give birth to something unique, which is a step ahead
of the known, expresses the philosophy of mixed media in the
best possible light. Subsequent to its inception by the Cubists
in 1912, the art has recently gained popularity again because
of the immense nature of being visually expressive, which is
hard to miss. Diverse textures of oil paint, textiles, vinyl, wood and
sculptures are being layered to symbolize a kaleidoscope of
ideas.
Transgressing from multi-textured and complex works of found
objects on canvas, new modes of visualization of media and
other technology- video and photography, sculpture and
photography, painting with video- are now being merged to
explore new expressions and emotions that are reflected through
such unexpected and unpredictable pairing.
While turning flat surfaces to a third dimension has enveloped
most artists’ developing mixed media art, there are a few who have
chosen the skill of making a three dimensional subject appear a s
a two dimensional one, by turning the human body into a live
canvas to paint on and then capturing it through a photograph
to collapse depth. In the next five years, a theme, which
possesses no limitations, will naturally go through rapid
transformations and experimentation in any creative field, since
this approach insinuates the desperate need to recreate one’s
thoughts into reality, by defying natural settings, to personalize
a subject in a way that it cannot be copied, stolen or erased.
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JUXTAPOSED
To achieve a work that maintains a balancing act
between a multitude of elements that create constant
tension- is what the viewer can expect to see. To either be
drawn to the similarities or the crass differences that
represent issues related to the violence and pressures within
the society, while simultaneously reflecting personal history.
Uniting surrealism and realism is a means to put together
the unconscious with the conscious, a world of fantasy and
reality, which makes the relationship between objects
extraordinary and devoid of normal frequency.
One can detect such art through literal observations of
crisp detailing against soft handed ones, aggressive
strokes alongside light shading or controlled patterns put
next to free-hand illustrations- some such concepts
include straight monotonous lines on colourful blooming
flowers, a mosaic texture on a face print and partial
smudging of a perfect picture. An artist might juxtapose
using imagery, too, by highlighting the matter which is
machine-made or humanly created, where one can
interpret the soulless uniformity of urbanization merging
with the infinite beauty and fragility of nature or see the
former translating into safety and order compared to the
irrepressible strength of the latter.
The current socio-political tensions hint at the trend of
placing opposites together, seeping into the world of art,
culture and fashion at a greater pace in the coming few
years. This form of art bestows upon the spectator, the
opportunity to perceive the fluid and static, the minimalist
and expressionistic or the pristine and the defaced.
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FOOD FOR
HT ECREATIVE MIND
Co-existing with the most global trend of the self fixated ‘selfie’, Food Photography
and Styling has, delightfully, made its place in society. Starting out with a culture
of its own, food, today, is not only for the human taste buds, but it is also for the
camera in its most unique forms. Food stylists from all over the world are
presenting food a s art, surpassing the boundaries of finely crafted cookbooks
and reaching out a s inspiring mood boards to artists and designers. No more are
these photographs for restaurants or luxury hotel chains, but are transforming into
prints and colour that are soothing to the eyes, in real handcrafted ways. Evolving
through the years, from mere still life specialization, then commercial photography,
to now, where food a s an art form has matured into a creative play of romantic
lighting, shallower angles, changing perspectives, extreme close-ups and more
props. Food is dissected, explored and experimented with, to discover newer
dimensions in design– from the very raw and original to the much arranged and
skillfully thought over.
Also attached with the deeper significance of organic farming, vegan living and
the slow food movement- food styling has become a photography revolution,
spanning across social media platforms, from Pinterest to Instagram. Food is
simply not a necessity to survive but a lifestyle that has to be pondered over and
carefully consumed. Making its way into yet another youth culture are the
everyday smart phone owners who are becoming the new-age food stylist and
photographers– travelling and making the world of food more diverse and aware.
Filtering into the world of fashion, from sugar coated colour palettes to cute food-
inspired novelty prints– the days are not far behind when the floral garden will be
sharing its space with the beauty of a home grown kitchen garden. Cucumbers and
oranges will be a s fresh a s the blossoming buds of flowers and the garden salad will
be the new jungle green of winter. There will be berries on dresses and watermelons on
the runways, magnificently perceived and imaginatively captured.
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FOODFORTHECREATIVE
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Photography
IMAGINATION AT
C L IC K
Technology haschangedour livesinnumerousways, inthepast. But,
themomentit coincided with photography, a revolution took place. Smart
phones have changed the way people purchase cameras, simply
because the luxury of a picture (for a lifetime) is now, in their hands. With
a simple click and a well thought-out filter, everyone has become a
photographer on the go. At one instant click your world is vintage; the other
second, it is retro and in the third, a glorified hipster. Smart photographers
are the cult of the future. They look, observe and document life through
their phones and spread visual knowledge through the technology of
social media apps. They think local and click local, forming a world which is
in its most original form. This world of smart photography is not
photoshopped or fake, but an innocent moment captured which only
travels in time through the wide selection of filters and effects.
This community of photographers believes in the real– people, places and
living. They don’t need a model to pose because they are their own
posers or define their subjects from what it already is. They click a field in
its true nature, the gaze of a passing-by animal, the scratched paint on
the walls, the golden shining of corn fields, the crazy-gone-wild creepers
or the day to da y objects which are easy to miss. For them, the whole
world resides in a single in-the-moment shot, which has no defined time
or environment. Now, a designer does not need to go places in search of
inspiration because his phone is his most instant mood board. From wide
scaling landscapes to complicated cityscapes, everything is in reach a s
the smart phone becomes the widest photographic resource. A picture can
then be converted into different textures that transform the image from a
photograph to art, leaving the rest to digital printing. Fashion is standing
on the verge of extreme dynamism that has never been witnessed before,
with the power of sharing and inspiring through social media.
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B I O
LUMINESCENCE
Man is constantly on the look-out for something new, something to add zeal to
the banality of everyday life and the process of charting a course towards
the new and the unexplored, sometimes, involves looking into the past; turning
a new leaf by going back to an old one- looking at nature, for example, and
deriving inspiration from primeval and unexplored forms. In this search for the
extraordinary, Bio-luminescent organisms present an exemplary medium to
the burning-out human by encouraging them to light the fire from within.
The essence of Bio-luminescence, summed up in one word, is “flashing”—
flashing on being challenged, flashing on attempting to attract fellow-
organisms, flashing and appearing breathtaking to a mate, flashing to
define each move. These ancient life-forms, found in the unexplored parts of
oceans and forests, implore humans to exhibit innate talent by flashing. On
the other hand, some organisms, like angler fish, host luminescent flora in
their bodies and create an environment for co-op, egging-on the
staggering human to augment his intrinsic value by inculcating a talent
within himself and for the world to see.
In fashion, bio-luminosity has been seen in couture, reflecting in glow-in-
the-dark clothing and fibre-optic apparel, especiallyin the work of e-textile
label, Cute Circuit. Bio-luminosity can be represented vicariously in
psychedelic iterations through juxtapositions of fabrics in varied textures,
shiny silk embroidery on thick fabric bases, vibrant colours in combination
with dull backgrounds and also, in sequins- work, coated fabric and the use
of reflective materials like rexine and PVC, a s seen in the collections of Toga,
Diane von Furstenberg, Betsy Johnson, Julien MacDonald, Libertine, No. 21,
Marchesa Voyage for Fall 2014. It is, therefore, expected that the runways
of Fall 2015 will bring forth a delightful luminous story of its own.
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PERFECTION IN IMPERFECTION
A sudden break in a perfect pattern, a series of dark shades subdued b y a bright
splatter or an almost perfect circle, but for the slight bend along the
circumference; these are nothing but unnerving visuals of a malfunction to the
human brain that is accustomed to receiving faultless structure from the
machine, it is so painstakingly programmed. But it is the uniqueness of this
malfunction that has made ‘glitch’ an art-form.
Glitch is an unintended, spontaneous and incontrollable reaction to a stimulus
in any IT enabled gadget or machinery. Much like the human brain and its
involuntary neural activity, glitch is something that a developer didn’t foresee or
intend in his creation. It is about a s intractable and amorphous a s fate; some
human-made machines might have perceived ‘malfunctioning minds’ of their
own that “glitch” whenever and however they wish. Glitches have been seen in
the form of graphic noise, pixilation, dead pixels, superimposing patterns and
unstructured splits.
Naturally, single-track perception attributed to humankind has, for long, led the
rejection of the unique design, birthed by these ‘glitches’, on the ground of
being flawed. Contemporary art, on the other hand, has welcomed the beauty of
imperfection against the constant search for utopian perfection, with arms wide
open. In art, these glitches represent the human instinct to harbour and nurture
the various personalities within the self, instead of being forced to lead a
structured nine-to-five lifestyle.
It is an encouragement of exploration in imperfection, the consequences of
which cannot be predetermined but will be celebrated for their uniqueness,
nonetheless; no Glitch Art work is a reject. The means of achieving this art is
a s interesting a s the art form itself. A software programmer would ‘corrupt’ an
image file by introducing a programming error or “bug” to it; what follows is,
literally, in the hands of fate.
The work of Phillip Stearns is widely recognized in the field of glitch art. He has
managed to bring out glitches to the field of apparel a s well. Following in his
footsteps, for A/W 14-15, the workshops of Chanel, Chaliyan, Jos h Goot, Custo
Barcelona and Creatures of the Wind have produced weaves, knits and prints
that shone with the intrinsically flawed beauty of the art-form. Another wave is
yet to be seen in A/W 15-16.
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In the dark of the human mind, rests a fantasy to taste the forbidden
fruit- to unhinge from mundane reality and delve into the secrets of
the surreal and the unexplained. A renaissance is upon the concrete-
dweller, imploring him to take charge of his life instead of centering it
on social, geo-political and economic obligations. It is re-offering
him the chance to self-reflect and design his life on his terms,-
turning the kaleidoscope in the direction of the pattern he desires.
Kaleidoscope- a cylindrical peep-in form that expansivelyreflects the
beauty of objects placed randomly or strategically in it. Viewer
guides, contraption follows, and beauty returns to the eye of the
beholder from the long-drawn- out a g e of prescribed doctrines,
making the kaleidoscope a power tool, passing the reign of control
into the hands of its viewer- encouraging him to explore.
Beads, bits of metal, glass or an assortment of all come together to
form varied patterns a s the viewer tilts or rotates the simple yet smart
contraption. Kaleidoscopicelementsinapparel
arereflectiveofthesesensibility- glimpses of mirroring weaves, prints
and embroideries in patterns, ranging from floral to tribal have been
seen on the runways of A/W 14-15. An extension of the trend for A/W
15-16 would be an incorporation of the abstract.
Abstract designs woven, knitted, printed or embroidered onto apparel
would represent the ambiguity and play associated with life, mirroring
the thoughts of the wearer.
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CONTEMPORARY
A FRICA
Breaking away from the demographic clichés of being tribal, ethnic
and exotic; African sensibilities undergo a modern transformation
and form a comprehensive trend of Afro-futurism. This concept
along with Africa’s contemporary art scene is characterized by a
myriad of remarkable artists who are developing and designing
African aesthetics in modern perspectives. Traditional artworks
portraying Africa’s rich customs and diverse beauty are being
transformed to suit present-day sensibilities. Observing overseas
trends, local designers create inventive and artistic merchandise
by cumulating traditional motifs, music and folk-tales with world
culture and globalized techniques.
Contemporarygeometricprintswith cleanlines,
shapesandcharacteristics, borrowed from the Bauhaus School of
Art, merge with the naïve tribal traditions to put forth a unique
variety of prints. Customary maasai figurines, tribal masks and
tattoo patterns from Ethiopia, Ghana and Somalia, get
incorporated with western silhouettes and this collaboration of the
conventional and contemporary highlights the concealed and
forgotten crafts of the African artisans. Intricate beadwork, fringing,
thread embroideries and Adire tie-dye techniques compel the
previous, monotonous chevrons to step aside and give way to the
African tribal trail.
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RUSSIAN
Consisting of a rich visual and cultural past along with colourful
folk costumes that are decorated with ornate religious symbols,
Russia enjoys being the motherland of beauty, detail and design
aesthetic. As the Matryoshka dolls open up to reveal another one
inside, the concealed mystery unfolds and brings out the true
artistry of the elaborate patterns on the surface. Regarded a s the
most prominent shade in the Russian palette, red symbolises
something beautiful, which along with blue, green, white, yellow and
gold create an aura of festivity and ethnicity.
Built on the concept of functionality and fashion, together,
traditional Russian costumes revolve around the world of surface
decoration through its plethora of ornamentation techniques.
Rhombuses, crosses, herringbones, layers and stylized patterns of
people and animals serve a s pattern inspirations to be embroidered
on home-made canvas and wool clothes for present-day
peasantry ensembles. Emblematic architectural elements like arcs,
helix-structures and domes, intertwine with Russian cultural
designs, which facilitate the inception of intricately laid designs on
brocades and silks. As the strings of the Balalaika hit the right
tune, the luxurious colours of Russian culture embody themselves in
the form of classic attire.
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As the Andalusian genre of music fills the air of Spain with a
rhythmic tune, a fine blend of spirituality and cheerfulness
reflect the primitive traditions of Hispania’s medieval past.
Emerging from the land of capes, corsets and farthingales; jewel
embellishments, metal embroidery and black beadwork weave a
story of techniques for the season. Evolving to curb the French
influence, the Hispanic designs and costumes now flaunt their
inherent charm and ethnicity, highlighting the dynamic lifestyle
of the Spanish populace. The incredibly bright tones from the
Spanish palette adorn the playful fabrics in a contemporary light.
Drawing inspiration from the baroque and neoclassical
architecture, intricately laid patterns are incepted on vibrant and
celebratory fabric, portraying extraordinary artistic heritage.
Continuing the tradition of the Spanish province, the
prominence of techniques is reinforced a s motifs with Islamic
influence adorn silks in cross and French knots. Polka dots,
flowers, festive attire and elaborate accessories paint a
scenic portrait of cultural richness, where delicate needlework
and handicraft facilitate the route of transforming the design
into reality, bringing back the aesthetic of dark baroque,
excessive gold, silver and metal amalgamations with miniscule
appliqué variations.
SPANISH
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