The seafood industry’s affect on the world’s oceans
McNabb, P - Portfolio Example C
1. McNabb, Patrick Portfolio Example C – Maryland Waterman’s Gazette
Mislabeled Seafood Stinks – Here’s Why
by Patrick McNabb
[Published in the Maryland Watermen’s Gazette, December 2016]
According to the New York City Food Policy Center, one in five pieces of fish sold for
human consumption are wrongly labeled. In fact, the University of Washington reports
that “Recent studies estimate up to 30 percent of seafood served in restaurants and
sold in supermarkets is actually something other than what is listed on the menu or
label.”
The problems with mislabeling fish are at least threefold. First, consumers are not
paying for what they think they are getting. Second, fish, shellfish or other misidentified
animals may pose health effects that are unknown to the consumer. Third, endangered
species or unsustainably fished species are being exploited, with undesirable
consequences on the environment, the market, and the lawful fishermen and merchants
that do correctly label their products.
Often the reasons for mislabeling are economic – by mislabeling a cheaper fish as a
more expensive or rare one, unscrupulous merchants and other suppliers can make
illicit profits from otherwise unaware consumers. And trust is paramount – often the only
way to tell what kind of species a processed fish is via genetic testing, something the
average consumer does not have the time or funds to do, especially with seafood
consumption increasing. One example is Atlantic salmon. Exceeding rare in the wild
and practically impossible to find in the marketplace, farmed Atlantic salmon is often
substituted for it.
When consumers are misled about the seafood they are consuming they are also
misinformed about the risks they are taking. This can lead to anything from mere
indigestion to outright poisoning. Good examples of this are the fish known as escolar
and the fish known as tilefish. Escolar, which is often marketed as white tuna due to its
similarity in color and taste, is known to cause gastrointestinal distress in some people,
so much so that it has been nicknamed the “Ex-Lax” fish. This is true even if the fish is
consumed in small amounts. On the other end of the spectrum is tilefish. Often
mislabeled or sold as red snapper or halibut, this species is known to have high levels
of mercury in its flesh. As a result the fish has been placed on the American Food and
Drug Administration’s “Do Not Eat” list for children and pregnant women.
Mis-labeled seafood are also often mis-managed seafood. A frequent argument that
watermen make to regulators is that the data that scientists and other policy makers
base their decisions on does not reflect what they see on the water. But if catches are
intentionally mislabeled, albeit depending on where this happens in the supply chain,
then that will naturally skew the data, with consequences ranging from unfair restrictions
on season length to needless closures of the fisheries.
2. McNabb, Patrick Portfolio Example C – Maryland Waterman’s Gazette
Currently efforts to combat mislabeling include the President’s Task Force on
Combating Illegal Unreported and Unregulated (IUU) Fishing and Seafood Fraud Action
Plan and seafood cooperatives. As the New York City Food Policy Center notes, "The
law outlines a plan to increase traceability for certain species that have been especially
susceptible to mislabeling in the United States over the past five years.” These include
species such as tuna, Atlantic cod, red snapper, and grouper. A more direct solution
that consumers can take is via seafood cooperatives. These cooperatives allow for
consumers to buy directly from their local watermen. They work by having consumers
purchase a share of the catch in advance, giving a ready-made market for the
watermen and a reliable, traceable source for the consumer, such as single individuals
or restaurants. Cooperatives also reduce the time and distance it can take to get
seafood from the fishermen to the fork, which can often be as much as several
thousand miles in conventional seafood supply chains. It’s a win-win situation. As the
saying goes, “Buy locally–feed a friend.”