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THE SHORELINE OF LAMU, THE JET-SET ISLAND OFF THE COAST OF KENYA,
IS TRANSFORMED BY THE EXTRAORDINARY HOUSES OF CLAUDIO MODOLA
Lamu Living
with Claudio Modola
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
FORT FERRO, SHELA, LAMU
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
If luxury were ...
An object:
It would have a perfect tactile sensation, the right smell, pure
lines and an inner flair - for example, a cultural or historical
reference. Personally, I am drawn to objects with a history.
They can be 3,000 years or only a few hours old, but they
should be a reflection of an act of pure, genuine creativity.
A moment:
A sudden emotion for something or someone of impeccable
taste.
A person:
A woman of forty years old with a single drop of a customized
perfume.
A place:
An empty horizon.
“Intimate, exclusive, pleasure.”
Claudio Modola’s
definition of luxury:
TEXT CONTINUES ON PAGE 11
© SANDRINE DE NICOLAY
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES, MANDA ISLAND, LAMU
SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
“The best of whatever
category it’s in, whether
it’s a watch, a chair or a to
be chair or a car. If very
best materials.”
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
M
BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES,
MANDA ISLAND, LAMU
SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES,
MANDA ISLAND, LAMU
SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
“Lamu’s architecture is a
combination of four distinct
cultural and aesthetic inputs:
Arabic, Bantu, Chinese and
European.”
BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES, MANDA ISLAND, LAMU
SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
M
FUNGUA MOYO, SHELA, LAMU
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
FUNGUA MOYO, SHELA, LAMU
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
EL YAFIR, SHELA, LAMU
SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
KILAMAWINGO, SHELA, LAMU
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
he enchanting island of Lamu, located off the coast of Kenya in
the Indian Ocean, is the definition of boho-chic and
stealth-wealth style. With its wild, empty beaches, crystal-clear waters
and UNESCO-protected old town, it is no wonder that international
jet-setters, including Princess Caroline of Monaco, are happy to make
the inconvenient journey: arriving at Lamu (population 25,000) is by
air or boat only, and cars are banned on the island.
CLAUDIO MODOLA’S GUIDE TO LAMU
When is best to visit Lamu?
Definitely January, February and March. However, I would not underestimate the rainy
season (May and June) for a writer, painter or somebody in need of a meditative setting.
What are your favorite things to do when on the island?
Lying back on the veranda outside of my Arabic tent on the beach at sunset with a
bubbling bottle and good friends, or to have a late night fire on the beach under the
stars - all of that is still possible in Lamu.
Which is the best hotel?
No matter what other accommodation crops up, Peponi Hotel has the fantastic
combination of a human touch and efficiency. Of course, Pierre Oberson at Kijani is also
a man who has been in love with Lamu for 30 years, and in Kijani House you can feel it.
Which are your favorite restaurants?
For a traditional Swahili dinner, Baitil Aman, definitely. And of course, Peponi.
Which is your favorite beach?
Manda Beach is almost private at this point, apart from the fantastic picnic parties of
Swahili families from Lamu, from time to time, which make for a wonderful, colorful
change. Otherwise, the 8 miles of beach from Peponi to Kipungani - very dramatic and
very empty. Lawrence of Arabia would have loved that beach.
What would you say are real “insider’s” tips for visiting Lamu?
Gracefully accept the local eccentricity, respect the local culture at all times, and do not
wear Velcro-strapped sandals with a kikoi.
T
KILAMAWINGO, SHELA, LAMU
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
Of the many stylish houses on Lamu,
the most exquisite are designed by the
Italian architect Claudio Modola. His
unique designs – which mix Islamic,
Asian and European architecture and
range from the simple and organic to
the grand and palatial – are defining
the coastline of these remote shores,
including the neighboring island of
Manda, which he calls home. In the age
of the starchitect, he is the local
equivalent of Nouvel, Gehry and
Calatrava all rolled into one.
As the space for new buildings on
Lamu becomes increasingly limited
and the opportunity to own one of
these masterpieces diminishes,
Claudio Modola shares with
LuxuryCulture his thoughts on island
life and the luxury of isolation.
How would you describe your architectural style
and philosophy?
As a way of satisfying and not completely disguising
an intimate desire for “grandeur.”
Are you influenced by traditional Lamu
architecture?
Lamu Architecture is a combination of four different
cultural and aesthetic inputs - Arabic, Bantu, Chinese
and European. They all retain slight traces of the will of
travelers to recreate tiny fragments of their home in
unknown territories, both geographically and culturally. I
find the spiritual, almost Cambodian atmosphere of
some 14th- or 16th-century courtyards in homes in
Lamu irresistible. A Lamu home reproduced in London
would not have the same aesthetic or emotional
impact on anyone. We need the level of humidity, the
perfume of jasmine in the night hours, and the
unobtrusive sounds of the people going about their
business in the streets to get the feeling that goes
along with Lamu architecture. An executive mansion in
Lamu reflects the desire of a successful merchant
seaman or pirate to testify, in a tangible way, to
personal power after significant achievements in
unpredictable and dangerous times along the East
African and Arabian Monsoon trade routes.
Why have you chosen Lamu as the center of your
operations?
Lamu, for me, has been a matter of destiny, a
mysterious alchemy of people, successful and
unsuccessful circumstances, love and passion and
my own interpretation of what a contemporary
adventure should be. My projects extend over the
entire archipelago.
What attracts your clients to Lamu? And then to
you as an architect?
Lamu is the end of something and the grand door to
something else. Its charm is irresistible; one can
move ideally or theoretically through an immense,
wild territory eastwards, ending in Cairo, or
southwards, through the most profound black
Africa, or navigate the ocean up to Java and
Sumatra. I believe this is sufficient to attract an elite
with a discerning aesthetic sense. I am perhaps a
humble interpreter of an almost lost memory, or
maybe I am lost in it.
Lamu’s remote location suggests that visitors
really do want to get away from it all. How is this
idea incorporated into your architecture?
The executive clientele shares with me the idea of a
kind of isolation being the ultimate privilege. Faulty
telephone lines and unpredictable internet
connections are, after a few days of craving, an
unusual means of escaping, perhaps in a childish
way, from the routine of responsibility. This, in my
view, is a supreme form of luxury.
Parts of Lamu are protected, and there is
speculation that new buildings will soon be
banned. What effect does the environment have
on your work?
In reality, my operations are moving quite
significantly to the Middle East. There is limited
space for new projects in Lamu and the surrounding
area. However, my projects are presently oriented
toward organic or semi-organic options. The quality
of my clients is also a guarantee of architectural
choices with a sustainable environmental impact.
Which are your favorite houses on the island
that you have designed? And by other
designers?
In a different form, I do love all of my projects in
Lamu. Each one represents a milestone in my life
and my professional career. I do particularly like the
work of Bernard Spoerry, who designed Chris and
Roberta Hanley’s residence. Its fortified structure
has followed perfectly as a natural evolution from
what was my first fortified residence, Fort Ferro on
Shela Beach.
Which has been the most ambitious project?
Definitely Fort Ferro, which required 140 workers,
often day and night, for a period of 16 months, in
one of the most environmentally difficult situations.
It was a long fight against the monsoon, the sand,
sometimes the ocean and the usual African
logistical problems. It was an emotional high for all
of the people involved and a childish game of sand
between my client and me. At the end of the
project, I donated a Japanese sword to Dr. Ferro -
it was a sort of ritual, which was correctly
interpreted by my client, just one year before his
death in the right eastern tower.
You must be particularly skilled at building on
remote islands. What challenges does the
remote location of Lamu present?
Generally, in Africa, any building process needs the
right strategic or tactical approach. As long as the
technical side of a project is sound, we must
gracefully accept possible day-by-day setbacks.
Africa will always play like a malicious child with
ambitious and not particularly flexible Europeans.
What are your current projects?
A Moorish mansion for an Irish client on
Mombassa’s south coast. A residence for a high-
profile French figure and his beautiful actress
partner. A fort for Oman and an organic residence
for the head of a European principality.
You have commented on the importance of the
architect-client relationship. How do you
approach this?
I do not market myself; my work is based on a sort
of gentle chain reaction between clients and their
friends or relatives. This sort of mechanism is highly
satisfactory from a professional point of view and
has so far kept me very busy.
Lamu is often tipped as a cool, emerging holiday
destination. How do you think the island will
develop?
Lamu Island is now under the UNESCO-protected
umbrella. This status, together with the progressively
sharper environmental consciousness of the local
population, guarantees a good level of protection
against major mistakes in architectural terms. The
price of land also does not attract a mass-tourism-
oriented developer. The airport has very limited
reception, and accommodation options are
somewhat limited. All of this will naturally protect the
island and encourage the right type of investment.
LUXURYCULTURE.COM
“The construction of
Fort Ferro required 140
workers, often day and
night, for a period of
16 months.” More Information:
www.claudiomodola.net
Rent El Yafir:
http://www.journeysbydesign.com/projects.asp
Rent Blue Empire Cottages:
Caroline Kennedy
T. + 254 735 671732
monsoon_magik@yahoo.com
You May Also Like:
GOLDSMITH’S MEXICAN MASTERPIECE
BAREFOOT LUXURY
FANTASY ISLAND

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Luxury Culture - June 08

  • 1. THE SHORELINE OF LAMU, THE JET-SET ISLAND OFF THE COAST OF KENYA, IS TRANSFORMED BY THE EXTRAORDINARY HOUSES OF CLAUDIO MODOLA Lamu Living with Claudio Modola LUXURYCULTURE.COM FORT FERRO, SHELA, LAMU
  • 2. LUXURYCULTURE.COM If luxury were ... An object: It would have a perfect tactile sensation, the right smell, pure lines and an inner flair - for example, a cultural or historical reference. Personally, I am drawn to objects with a history. They can be 3,000 years or only a few hours old, but they should be a reflection of an act of pure, genuine creativity. A moment: A sudden emotion for something or someone of impeccable taste. A person: A woman of forty years old with a single drop of a customized perfume. A place: An empty horizon. “Intimate, exclusive, pleasure.” Claudio Modola’s definition of luxury: TEXT CONTINUES ON PAGE 11 © SANDRINE DE NICOLAY
  • 3. LUXURYCULTURE.COM BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES, MANDA ISLAND, LAMU SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
  • 4. “The best of whatever category it’s in, whether it’s a watch, a chair or a to be chair or a car. If very best materials.” LUXURYCULTURE.COM M BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES, MANDA ISLAND, LAMU SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
  • 5. LUXURYCULTURE.COM BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES, MANDA ISLAND, LAMU SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
  • 6. LUXURYCULTURE.COM “Lamu’s architecture is a combination of four distinct cultural and aesthetic inputs: Arabic, Bantu, Chinese and European.” BLUE EMPIRE COTTAGES, MANDA ISLAND, LAMU SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
  • 9. LUXURYCULTURE.COM EL YAFIR, SHELA, LAMU SEE PAGE 13 FOR RENTAL INFORMATION
  • 11. LUXURYCULTURE.COM he enchanting island of Lamu, located off the coast of Kenya in the Indian Ocean, is the definition of boho-chic and stealth-wealth style. With its wild, empty beaches, crystal-clear waters and UNESCO-protected old town, it is no wonder that international jet-setters, including Princess Caroline of Monaco, are happy to make the inconvenient journey: arriving at Lamu (population 25,000) is by air or boat only, and cars are banned on the island. CLAUDIO MODOLA’S GUIDE TO LAMU When is best to visit Lamu? Definitely January, February and March. However, I would not underestimate the rainy season (May and June) for a writer, painter or somebody in need of a meditative setting. What are your favorite things to do when on the island? Lying back on the veranda outside of my Arabic tent on the beach at sunset with a bubbling bottle and good friends, or to have a late night fire on the beach under the stars - all of that is still possible in Lamu. Which is the best hotel? No matter what other accommodation crops up, Peponi Hotel has the fantastic combination of a human touch and efficiency. Of course, Pierre Oberson at Kijani is also a man who has been in love with Lamu for 30 years, and in Kijani House you can feel it. Which are your favorite restaurants? For a traditional Swahili dinner, Baitil Aman, definitely. And of course, Peponi. Which is your favorite beach? Manda Beach is almost private at this point, apart from the fantastic picnic parties of Swahili families from Lamu, from time to time, which make for a wonderful, colorful change. Otherwise, the 8 miles of beach from Peponi to Kipungani - very dramatic and very empty. Lawrence of Arabia would have loved that beach. What would you say are real “insider’s” tips for visiting Lamu? Gracefully accept the local eccentricity, respect the local culture at all times, and do not wear Velcro-strapped sandals with a kikoi. T KILAMAWINGO, SHELA, LAMU
  • 12. LUXURYCULTURE.COM Of the many stylish houses on Lamu, the most exquisite are designed by the Italian architect Claudio Modola. His unique designs – which mix Islamic, Asian and European architecture and range from the simple and organic to the grand and palatial – are defining the coastline of these remote shores, including the neighboring island of Manda, which he calls home. In the age of the starchitect, he is the local equivalent of Nouvel, Gehry and Calatrava all rolled into one. As the space for new buildings on Lamu becomes increasingly limited and the opportunity to own one of these masterpieces diminishes, Claudio Modola shares with LuxuryCulture his thoughts on island life and the luxury of isolation. How would you describe your architectural style and philosophy? As a way of satisfying and not completely disguising an intimate desire for “grandeur.” Are you influenced by traditional Lamu architecture? Lamu Architecture is a combination of four different cultural and aesthetic inputs - Arabic, Bantu, Chinese and European. They all retain slight traces of the will of travelers to recreate tiny fragments of their home in unknown territories, both geographically and culturally. I find the spiritual, almost Cambodian atmosphere of some 14th- or 16th-century courtyards in homes in Lamu irresistible. A Lamu home reproduced in London would not have the same aesthetic or emotional impact on anyone. We need the level of humidity, the perfume of jasmine in the night hours, and the unobtrusive sounds of the people going about their business in the streets to get the feeling that goes along with Lamu architecture. An executive mansion in Lamu reflects the desire of a successful merchant seaman or pirate to testify, in a tangible way, to personal power after significant achievements in unpredictable and dangerous times along the East African and Arabian Monsoon trade routes. Why have you chosen Lamu as the center of your operations? Lamu, for me, has been a matter of destiny, a mysterious alchemy of people, successful and unsuccessful circumstances, love and passion and my own interpretation of what a contemporary adventure should be. My projects extend over the entire archipelago. What attracts your clients to Lamu? And then to you as an architect? Lamu is the end of something and the grand door to something else. Its charm is irresistible; one can move ideally or theoretically through an immense, wild territory eastwards, ending in Cairo, or southwards, through the most profound black Africa, or navigate the ocean up to Java and Sumatra. I believe this is sufficient to attract an elite with a discerning aesthetic sense. I am perhaps a humble interpreter of an almost lost memory, or maybe I am lost in it. Lamu’s remote location suggests that visitors really do want to get away from it all. How is this idea incorporated into your architecture? The executive clientele shares with me the idea of a kind of isolation being the ultimate privilege. Faulty telephone lines and unpredictable internet connections are, after a few days of craving, an unusual means of escaping, perhaps in a childish way, from the routine of responsibility. This, in my view, is a supreme form of luxury. Parts of Lamu are protected, and there is speculation that new buildings will soon be banned. What effect does the environment have on your work? In reality, my operations are moving quite significantly to the Middle East. There is limited space for new projects in Lamu and the surrounding area. However, my projects are presently oriented toward organic or semi-organic options. The quality of my clients is also a guarantee of architectural choices with a sustainable environmental impact.
  • 13. Which are your favorite houses on the island that you have designed? And by other designers? In a different form, I do love all of my projects in Lamu. Each one represents a milestone in my life and my professional career. I do particularly like the work of Bernard Spoerry, who designed Chris and Roberta Hanley’s residence. Its fortified structure has followed perfectly as a natural evolution from what was my first fortified residence, Fort Ferro on Shela Beach. Which has been the most ambitious project? Definitely Fort Ferro, which required 140 workers, often day and night, for a period of 16 months, in one of the most environmentally difficult situations. It was a long fight against the monsoon, the sand, sometimes the ocean and the usual African logistical problems. It was an emotional high for all of the people involved and a childish game of sand between my client and me. At the end of the project, I donated a Japanese sword to Dr. Ferro - it was a sort of ritual, which was correctly interpreted by my client, just one year before his death in the right eastern tower. You must be particularly skilled at building on remote islands. What challenges does the remote location of Lamu present? Generally, in Africa, any building process needs the right strategic or tactical approach. As long as the technical side of a project is sound, we must gracefully accept possible day-by-day setbacks. Africa will always play like a malicious child with ambitious and not particularly flexible Europeans. What are your current projects? A Moorish mansion for an Irish client on Mombassa’s south coast. A residence for a high- profile French figure and his beautiful actress partner. A fort for Oman and an organic residence for the head of a European principality. You have commented on the importance of the architect-client relationship. How do you approach this? I do not market myself; my work is based on a sort of gentle chain reaction between clients and their friends or relatives. This sort of mechanism is highly satisfactory from a professional point of view and has so far kept me very busy. Lamu is often tipped as a cool, emerging holiday destination. How do you think the island will develop? Lamu Island is now under the UNESCO-protected umbrella. This status, together with the progressively sharper environmental consciousness of the local population, guarantees a good level of protection against major mistakes in architectural terms. The price of land also does not attract a mass-tourism- oriented developer. The airport has very limited reception, and accommodation options are somewhat limited. All of this will naturally protect the island and encourage the right type of investment. LUXURYCULTURE.COM “The construction of Fort Ferro required 140 workers, often day and night, for a period of 16 months.” More Information: www.claudiomodola.net Rent El Yafir: http://www.journeysbydesign.com/projects.asp Rent Blue Empire Cottages: Caroline Kennedy T. + 254 735 671732 monsoon_magik@yahoo.com You May Also Like: GOLDSMITH’S MEXICAN MASTERPIECE BAREFOOT LUXURY FANTASY ISLAND