Harlem is experiencing a revival and prosperity several years into a new burst of growth. On a walk down 125th street, one sees the Apollo Theater marquee, art exhibits, restaurants with patio crowds, and locals from all backgrounds. Even a Starbucks holds surprises, like a modern photo shoot of a model dressed as Nefertiti. New projects, diversity, buzz, and creeping anxiety characterize what a first-time tourist now finds in Harlem, as the area welcomes many new visitors after years of redevelopment.

1. NEW YORK — Take a walk on 125th Street. Check out the Apollo Theater marquee, the latest ex-
hibit at the Studio Museum, the patio dinner crowd on Lenox Avenue, the high-priced brownstones, the locals of all hues striding past
Afrocentric sidewalk stalls while a drum circle grooves across the street. ¶ Harlem, several years into a burst of new prosperity, is
rolling like an uptown train with a full head of steam. ¶ Even the Starbucks harbors surprises. On the afternoon I ducked in, model
Nia Fields, preparing for a photo shoot, had just put on the headgear of a neo-Egyptian queen. The results were so dramatic, I thought
some customers might drop their drinks and start building her a pyramid. ¶ “We’re doing a modernized Nefertiti,” said Melanie
Gonzalez,herNikon-bearingfriendanddirector. ¶ Newprojects,newdiversity,newbuzzandcreepinganxiety—thisiswhatafirst-
time tourist finds in Harlem. And the newcomers don’t come any newer than me. ¶ I’ve been to Manhattan many times. But it was
only in May, after several years of reading about Harlem’s multiplying restaurants, falling crime rate and rising
EXUBERANT aspiring singer Amanda Humes, a tour guide for Big Apple Jazz Tours, pauses on 125st Street in Harlem, which is enjoying a rich, vibrant renaissance.
Marcus Yam Los Angeles Times
NEW YORK
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