How to Save the Urban Environment in 128 Steps

© 2014 Max Lerner Page 1
How to Save the Urban
Environment in 128
Steps or Less!
A practical guide to managing successful
greenspaces
By Max Lerner
© 2014 Max Lerner

Acknowledgements
I would not be who I am today without the perpetual education and encouragement of all the
amazing mentors, co-workers, parents and friends I have been blessed to have in my life. I
thank you all from the bottom of my heart each and every day for making my work possible
through your constant inspiration.
Before you Begin
How to Read this Guide and What’s Not Inside:
-What’s inside this guide?
This has been written as an incredibly condensed question and answer guide for urban
conservationists of all experience levels. The content within is a culmination of years of field
experience, research, as well as personal and professional accounts from many prominent
figures in environmental science. The flow of this piece frames a general outline to
troubleshoot the process of creating a shared public community greenspace from start to finish
in as quick and comprehensive a way as could be conveyed. No questions answer will run over a
paragraph, so feel free to either use this as a fast-track for your project or a quick reference
guide, whatever it takes to get this city looking lusher!
-What wont I find in this guide?
Although this compilation contains many of the most pressing matters I feel should be clarified
for planning, constructing and running an environmental based project within an urban setting,
this is by no means a one-stop-shop for learning. Many topics were specifically left out of this
manual on purpose, such as extensive lists of plant details, carbon to nitrogen ratios of compost
ingredients, detailed curriculum modules and other data ridden concepts. I intend for any
reader who picks up this guide to be able to absorb the content upon first glance and be able to
implement it immediately. These are practical pointers and tools to help you without any
comprehensive knowledge of the field. If you require specific scientific information I
recommend you apply and extend the learning of this guide with another professional resource.
-What sorts of projects is this guide geared towards?
Although this resource generally frames creating a community garden/urban farm, its lessons
can largely be applied to easily and effectively manage any public space utilizing sustainable
environmental principles. Feel free to pick and choose what lessons apply to your specific
scenario, my intent with this guide is that it will serve to (if not work as a start-to-finish guide
for your specific project) help answer any persistent questions you might have.
-How can I learn more?!
This guide is not designed to feed into any specific follow-up literature. However, I’ve framed
the book so that if you have additional questions you will be aware enough of the general
information you need to find additional materials on that particular topic. We are fortunate

that this field of work is relatively well written upon, but I have personally found much of the
reading is formatted to be too exhaustive and focused on specific rather than broadly
applicable knowledge. If something is still nagging at your brain and you’d like to ask the author
directly, feel free to contact me at max.lerner@gmail.com if I can be of any further assistance
I’m happy to do my best to answer additional questions and/or hear any feedback you might
have!
Index
*Start Here if You Don’t Know Why You Should Work so Hard in the First Place*
Urban Sustainability and the Rationale for Your Impending Hard Work:
-Why create sustainable urban systems? (Page 7)
-Are cities prepared for the weather they endure? (Page 7)
-Aren’t there any major environmental benefits from cities? (Page 7)
-What is the utility of planting in my space? (Page 8)
-What are the not-so-obvious benefits of my impending work? (Page 8)
*Start Here When You Have an Idea for a Project but No Site*
Community and Logistical Planning:
-How can I find a site in the first place? (Page 8)
-How do I protect my site from development once I secure it? (Page 9)
-How do I make a clear goal for my project? (Page 9)
-How do I identify target area benefitting from my work? (Page 9)
-How do I identify useful community resources to help me? (Page 9)
-How do I generate outreach material and get the word out? (Page 10)
*Start Here Once you Have a Site Secured*
Basic Organizational and Logistical Framing of Your Site:
-What sorts of data should I record? (Page 10)
-How to collect photos/video/data properly? (Page 10)
-Should I run a full year or partial year site? (Page 10)
-Who should get the keys to the kingdom? (Page 11)
-Neighborwho’s? (Page 11)
-Should I monetize my programs? (Page 11)
-How to fundraise right versus wrong? (Page 11)
-How can I work towards grants? (Page 12)
-Where do I purchase the correct, cheapest and best supplies as well as maintain them? (Page 12)
-Should I build a farm stand? (Page 12)
-How to ensure my community projects and events are successful? (Page 12)
-What is the value of a diverse garden space? (Page 13)
How to Structure My Greenspace:
-How do I map my site effectively? (Page 13)

-What is the best way to remove trash from my site? (Page 13)
-How do I identify salvageable materials within my trash? (Page 13)
-What should I do with all these rocks? (Page 14)
-Should I worry about shade in my site? (Page 14)
-What should I do at my site at night? (Page 14)
-What kinds of utility access should I have on my site, if any? (Page 14)
-How should people carry themselves within the space? (Page 15)
-How do I keep visitors orderly and aware of my site’s rules? (Page 15)
-How big should my plant beds be? (Page 15)
-What is the best way to design foot paths? (Page 15)
-How can I become less popular with weeds? (Page 15)
-Is there any way to cut to the chase with all these plant pests? (Page 16)
-Is the sky really the limit for space in my urban oasis? (Page 16)
-What should my basic garden task list entail? (Page 16)
-How can I take my space to the next level? (Page 17)
-Are high or low tech solutions better? (Page 17)
-What obstacles should I be aware of before I setup any gardening systems? (Page 17)
-Should I keep plants indoors or outdoors? (Page 17)
-What about vertical growing, trellising and living walls? (Page 18)
-Why would I tuck my plants into bed? (Page 18)
-How to best set up restrooms, sinks and all the dull stuff onsite? (Page 18)
-What materials can and cannot be substituted? (Page 18)
-How do I keep my site clean? (Page 19)
It All Begins With Dirt:
-Is all soil created equal? (Page 19)
-How do I find out if my soil is up to snuff? (Page 19)
-What do I do if my soil is terrible? (Page 20)
-How do I ensure my soil is in peak condition? (Page 20)
*Start Here Once You Have Your Site Fully Drafted*
How to Manage Staff and Volunteers:
-Is it best to hold an open or closed door policy? (Page 20)
-How to recruit additional assistance? (Page 21)
-What are appropriate work clothes? (Page 21)
-Should I pay employees or maintain a strict free labor policy? (Page 21)
-How do I schedule greenspace work into the outside lives of its staff? (Page 22)
*Start Here Once You Have Your Site and Team Established*
Plants 101:
-What’s needed for a plant to live? (Page 22)
-What’s a climate map and why is it the boss of me? (Page 22)
-How long will my crops take to grow and how to select for the season? (Page 23)
-Should I use previously started plants to expedite growing? (Page 23)
-How do I get my purchased plants into my garden? (Page 23)
-To irrigate or not to irrigate? (Page 23)
-How do I know when my plants are thirsty? (Page 24)
-Do plants play nicely together? (Page 24)
-Can I do anything with the seeds my plants produce? (Page 24)

-Are my crops organic? (Page 24)
-What is fertilizer and will I need it? (Page 25)
Creepy Crawlers 101:
-What are the good, the bad and the ugly bugs? (Page 25)
-Can I skip the small talk and use pesticides? (Page 25)
*Start Here Once All Your Plants are in the Ground*
Composting 101:
-What is compost and why should I care? (Page 26)
-How can I get my own compost? (Page 26)
-Should my compost run hot or cold? (Page 27)
-What does and doesn’t compost? (Page 27)
-How do I make the best compost? (Page 27)
-What are the different types of bins and piles? (Page 28)
-Should I raise my compost off the ground? (Page 28)
-What about worms? (Page 28)
-Are there any other methods you might recommend considering? (Page 29)
-What do I do with my finished compost? (Page 29)
Teaching 101:
-What’s the value of experience based education? (Page 29)
-What’s the value of healthy food and physical activity? (Page 30)
-How do I get participants to try new things? (Page 30)
-Should I host sporadic field trips or setup dedicated classes? (Page 30)
-What’s the best way to manage a classroom? (Page 30)
-How do I establish a curriculum? (Page 31)
-How do I effectively assign students to assist my work? (Page 31)
-How do I best incorporate recycling into student learning? (Page 31)
-How do I get the parents involved? (Page 32)
-Any not-so-obvious pointers? (Page 32)
*Start Here to Take Your Site Above and Beyond*
Cooking 101:
-How do I get kids and teens in the kitchen? (Page 33)
-How do I ensure students will be safe during our cooking projects? (Page33)
-What foods should I be using in the kitchen? (Page 33)
-What to do if my students are allergic to everything? (Page 34)
-What’s the best way to brainstorm new recipes? (Page 34)
-How do I plan a meal that’s quick, healthy and time conscious? (Page 34)
-How much should I be feeding students? (Page 35)
-How do we keep everything clean? (Page 35)
Animals 101:
-What sorts of animals am I allowed to add to the herd? (Page 35)
-How long will this pet project live? (Page 36)

Chickens 101:
-Why have a whole section on chickens? (Page 36)
-How do I design a coop? (Page 37)
-Any secret rules of thumb to becoming a chicken master? (Page 37)
-How do I identify and remove parasites from my birds? (Page 38)
We learned About Birds but What About the Bees:
-Bees or no bees? (Page 38)
-Why do I want pollinators in my garden and how to preserve them? (Page 38)
-To build a beehive, purchase one or get it donated? (Page 38)
-How do I ensure this bee business doesn’t blow up in anyone’s face? (Page 39)
Trees 101:
-What is the value of trees? (Page 39)
-How do I care for my newfound tree friends? (Page 40)
*Start Here if Something Went Wrong*
What about Wild Animals:
-When should I deal with a feral cat problem versus ignore it? (Page 40)
-What to do with cats once I’ve caught them? (Page 41)
-What are the difficulties in getting cats adopted? (Page 41)
-What’s in cat food and which to choose? (Page 41)
-Any final tricks of the trade? (Page 42)
Aw Rats:
-How do I know if I have mice and/or rats? (Page 42)
-How do I stop them?! (Page 42)
This is an Emergency, this is Not a Drill:
-How to handle injuries onsite? (Page 43)
-What to do if a potentially dangerous pest enters the site? (Page 43)
-What to do in case of a severe allergic reaction? (Page 43)
-What to do in case of inclement weather? (Page 43)
-What to do in case of fire? (Page 44)
-What to do in case of theft or physical conflict? (Page 44)
-What to do if an animal “buys the farm”? (Page 44)
-How to handle a real estate dispute? (Page 44)

*Start Here if You Don’t Know Why You Should Work so Hard in the
First Place*
Urban Sustainability and the Rationale for Your Impending Hard Work:
-Why create sustainable urban systems?
As you are probably aware, cities consume resources at an extreme rate, are often population
dense as well as pollution-ridden. My home of New York City for example has a difficult time
passing air quality standards, and relatedly has incredibly high rates of asthma, especially in
children. Because of the ever present fiscal incentive for land development in cities there is
often a limited amount of public and/or undeveloped natural areas for citizens to utilize. The
lack of exposure to the outdoor environment affects human disposition, health, and the
environmental survivability of a community. By working to increase and enhance natural
resources in urban hubs, you not only make some of society’s most successful structures more
sustainable, you also create focal points for the important issue of integrating environmental
conservation into the world around us.
-Are cities prepared for the weather they endure?
Many cities, such as New York with its dated infrastructure, are not traditionally designed for
weather or overall sustainability. The abundance of impermeable (non-absorbent) and dark
terrain (the majority of roads, the majority of roofs, etc) subjects them to the urban heat island
effect (which translates to roughly a 5 degrees Fahrenheit temperature raise versus outside city
limits). It also creates frequent combined sewer overflow events (CSO’s) in which raw sewage
and trash is released into our open waterways due to the inability to contain our overall runoff
and occur in New York City during any rainstorm that runs over a quarter inch. Overall, this
creates a very unhealthy picture for a city’s health and sustainability. Many cities are also quite
low to local waterlines, which bodes poorly for rising global waters from the effects of polar ice
melt due to climate change (which cities unfortunately contribute an enormous amount of
greenhouse gases towards). And this is not to mention the deposit of pollution in our personal
atmosphere contributing heavily towards exacerbated acid rain to name just a few problems
we invoke on ourselves. Although comprehensive public transportation and localized
commutes are a saving grace to our situation, many other elements of cities are working
against our environmental health, but can quickly, readily and affordably be assisted through
urban stewardship efforts and the creation of additional greenspaces.
-Aren’t there any major environmental benefits from cities?
Although cities are not generally considered the best example of nature’s succession over time,
they are a focal point on the world stage for any and all work. The efforts you coordinate stand
that much stronger in the public eye if you are able to work against those odds, and rightly so,
granted how many immediate environmental problems your project will combat. Many city
residents are starved for the ability to experience the outdoors and, in my experience, will
happily contribute to and take charge of managing urban green initiatives. Lastly, the lack of
nature in cities is by no means a secret, and there are many grants, supplies and organizations

that are ready and raring to amend this issue and help you in your work. So take heart in
knowing you are only alone in this battle if you choose to be!
-What is the utility of planting in my space?
Plants will often be at the heart of such proposed sustainability projects. Whether they are
edible, ornamental or merely groundcover they are useful in fulfilling their role to nature. The
carbon sequestration and oxygen production via photosynthesis creates an immediate benefit
to the area at large. Water retention, potential land remediation through pollution uptake,
production and subsequent increased access to food (which also offsets our carbon footprint
for food transportation) and the general emotional health and wellbeing of people working
with plants outdoors are all additional boons of working with these amazing elements, so do all
you can to make sure they thrive!
-What are the not-so-obvious benefits of my impending work?
Beyond this, cities have especially high waste streams, both organic and inorganic. Any project
site you create can further empower itself and the area around it by becoming a hub to combat
pollution through active composting and recycling collection. There are even ways to build in
monetizing projects to fund furthering your work, and the resource of localizing green efforts is
an immeasurably valuable community service to boot. Be proud that you will soon be achieving
so much more than you can possibly realize with your hard earned work!
*Start Here When You Have an Idea for a Project but No Site*
Community and Logistical Planning:
-How can I find a site in the first place?
The first and foremost question for conducting such work is where to do it. The value of real
estate in cities is paramount, and finding an appropriate space can understandably be difficult,
expensive and even downright impossible if not looked into properly. If you already have a
space identified you can be thankful to have more than half of the work done and most of the
headache out of the way. However, if this is not the case, there are luckily many databases
designed specifically for identifying and converting abandoned or underutilized spaces in cities.
I personally work through New York City’s 596 acres database, the Open Accessible Space
Information System (OASIS) and the City Owned and Leased Property List, just to name a few.
These and similar sites do not charge fees for research or the actual location, and are more so
geared towards establishing proper stewardship of underutilized areas. Schools and roofs
(although often lacking access) are also wonderful places to consider zoning such work if the
space presents itself, although the ways to coordinate such contacts are often less formal and
more often done on a case by case basis. The final method is purchasing a space outright,
although in my experience the budget for such an initiative is in the range that takes this option
off the table.

-How do I protect my site from development once I secure it?
Equally as important as securing a space in the first place is ensuring the terms for occupancy
are agreeable. Make sure it is clear what rights you have to the space, how long you are
guaranteed occupancy and if this is subject to change at all. Far too many gardens have fallen in
the face of private interest and unfortunate real estate disputes. Cut out the uncertainties and
know what you’re getting into before you risk losing a real treasure to the community due to
the lack of foresight in your planning.
-How do I make a clear goal for my project?
There are a million ways to pitch your upcoming project, so be sure to choose at least one and
make sure everyone else knows it! Whether that be focusing on food yield, education,
environmental stewardship, recreation or even just a place to hang out you need to make sure
the theme ties into everything you’re doing. This is key to creating a cohesive project, as well as
selling others on your work to ensure that the initiative survives the test of time.
-How do I identify target area benefitting from my work?
Although the overall benefits of the project may be relatively obvious, many are intangible to
the naked eye. Be sure to both research and record what is improved through your work. This
takes the form of reviewing the immediate and surrounding areas, looking into the holes within
its resources, observing and recording how people interact with the space as well as continually
finding the best-fit ways to serve those who could use such stewardships most. Make sure the
benefits are both known and noteworthy to both citizens and policymakers, as you will want to
operate on both an individual and governmental level to optimize the ability to coordinate
assistance. Many benefits only become visible on the macro scale, such as combatting obesity,
diabetes and dietary based diseases through such work. Think broadly and don’t sell your
efforts short!
-How do I identify useful community resources to help me?
An area in need will often also have a lot to give, and as the benefits of your work become more
apparent you will find that it’s easier to coordinate their support. Through identifying what you
can help with you will inevitably come in contact with people, organizations and resources that
can help extend your environmental work. Make sure to become active in the community
around your work so that together the space will flourish. No project should be an island and
you will quickly find that if your efforts are not integrated into the larger area the initiative will
never truly come together. Beyond community, schools and non-profits groups interested in
your work, you will soon see that even long distance groups and city organizations may want to
utilize the benefits your site offers. Make sure to work with any and all people you are able to
assist whenever possible! If your site is not utilized to its full potential you are effectively
creating an underserved space. Look for ways to maximize access and benefit to the
surrounding area, which is most often a matter of effective management and organization
rather than any necessary additional costs or resource use on the part of the site.

-How do I generate outreach material and get the word out?
This is a question that is as open ended as creativity itself, and that’s the key! Please don’t feel
limited to traditional methods of advertising, have an open barbecue to get people in the
space, coordinate a plant or produce sale for the community at large, host free afterschool
classes and garden training programs for interested parties, or you can even flyer and advertise
online. There is no wrong method as long as it’s legal and helps get the word out at a cost you
can swallow!
*Start Here Once You Have a Site Secured*
Basic Organizational and Logistical Framing of Your Site:
-What sorts of data should I record?
Absolutely every quantifiable variable you are able to justify the work for. This is one of the
most loaded questions you may face in this guide, and as well it should be. If the data is of any
value to your work, from pictures to visitor numbers even to the weight of your tomatoes,
record it! Any ammo you can use to justify your efforts is worth its weight in gold, so keep
meticulous notes on any and all site activities if it has larger application (you may be quite
surprised how much this realistically is). Hours volunteers put in are valuable to school
internship programs, compost generated from onsite waste is a direct savings to sanitation as
well as valuable resource to any who receive it, and even water offset from sewer systems is
valuable to the city if you can calculate your contribution. Data is your friend and make so make
sure to buddy up with it whenever you can!
-How to collect photos/video/data properly?
The above being said, you have to also be aware that people hold the right to their own
information. Do not get overzealous with your notes if you have not first asked permission to
do so, which is often not at all an issue to collect but a pain in the brain to have to request after
the fact. Simple release forms or formalized verbal consent is often all it takes to ensure nobody
is upset, and when you explain that such simple means really make a difference people are
almost universally happy to comply in my experience. Photographs of students traditionally
require parental release, so speak with schools beforehand, or create your own basic form if
not working from any template which can easily be found online.
-Should I run a full year or partial year site?
This is one of the biggest determinants of how effective your project is, and it’s easy to see why.
Much like postal workers, a full year site has to hold strong despite snow, rain, heat and gloom,
whereas a partial season site (the standard for most urban farms/gardens) traditionally cherry
picks the best seasons or months to run and closes under unfavorable conditions. This is a very
big hurdle, and it often comes down to available staff more so than operational cost (which is
traditionally incredibly low beyond salaries, if there are any). A closed space is, by nature,
underutilized, and although the city may still thankfully benefit passively through rain
catchment and air purification people will not readily account the boons that a locked up

garden grant them. Although not always the easiest hurdle, if at all possible I personally
recommend that through whatever means necessary you site stay open as much of the year as
possible to maximize its recognizable benefit, as land that is seen as less than optimal is often
lost in urban cityscapes. Do the world a favor and ensure that your site stands proud as much as
possible!
-Who should get the keys to the kingdom?
Once you have a space, access becomes a big debate, and there’s no better way to guarantee
access than having your own set of keys. Many sites develop different systems to solve this
question, from purchasable keys for community volunteers to a single sole key for the Manager
of the site. This is an incredibly site-specific issue, and though there shouldn’t be anything of
extreme value at your garden it’s a question of safety versus security. Create a system that best
works with your ideal usage of the grounds.
-Neighborwho’s?
Be respectful of your neighbors’ wishes 100% of the time, or at the very least, listen to them
and be as reasonable as possible with their input. As a steward of the community you will now
find yourself subject to some of the most inane, insane and harebrained complaints imaginable,
but you must acknowledge and respond to them effectively to maintain a positive presence
within the community. Remember, you are the new kid on the block, and you will often be
treated as such for quite some time. Recognize that everyone in the area both has a right to
their bias as well as seniority in the surrounding area, tread with caution and you will make
allies instead of ensuring trouble down the line.
-Should I monetize my programs?
If it’s situationally appropriate you definitely should, however if it’s your primary goal in this
endeavor you may have your head in the wrong place. Even a farm stand has to have a fiscal
backbone to anchor itself, but stewardship projects should not be seen as get-rich-quick
schemes. Although they have the capacity for fundraising, the sustainable basis needs to be
paramount in what the funds are directed towards, and make sure contributors are aware of
this! If you’re developing a strict agribusiness or rentable venue you will likely need to frame it
outside the confines of a community shared space.
-How to fundraise right versus wrong?
Fundraising is key to supporting endeavors such as community gardens. Although operational
costs are usually low in the grand scheme of things, your site will not be ecologically or
logistically self-sustaining from the get-go and will rely on assistance. Luckily, there are often
many non-profits willing to give mini-grants to help just such a cause! You would also do well to
look into larger governmental grants funding environmentally focused projects, such as runoff
abatement and building green infrastructure for cities. Additionally, you will be surprised how
much can be raised with simple barbecues and even asking schools and parents for whatever
support can be spared! You should be dealing with very small numbers for operation costs
outside staff funding, if there are major hurdles getting cash together you may need to re-
examine your spending.

-How can I work towards grants?
Grants are essentially a contest to see who can read rules the best. There is a very specific way
that most grants are structured and the applications are rated on your ability to adhere to said
format. If you are able to frame your work within the confines of their grant requirements then
they will fund you. If you have little to no experience with grant writing you might want to
consult with another book, website or professionals specializing in such matters, or best yet see
if you can submit your grant application early to the coordinating organization to receive
feedback and improve it accordingly before the final deadline (you would be surprised how
often this is actually permitted yet not taken advantage of). It’s a lot of paperwork, but often
well worth it for the amount it can raise through simply speaking on behalf of your work.
-Where do I purchase the correct, cheapest and best supplies as well as maintain them?
Correct, cheapest and best can be mutually exclusive when it comes to tools, however it’s very
situational. The correct tools are the ones you need, don’t go above and beyond to buy things
you theoretically need, just purchase what is immediately required. The absolute cheapest
tools are often of questionable quality and materials, so be incredibly careful to read reviews of
tools if purchasing online before deciding on price alone. The best supplies are the ones that
will do the job at hand and survive to see another day, which is also a matter of proper care and
storage. Make sure to keep tools out of the rain, sharpen them when necessary and make sure
they are all accounted for at the end of the day and you should fare just fine.
-Should I build a farm stand?
Farm stands are an accessible way to monetize any agriculture, horticulture, food or other
items and services your site produces. They are a quick way of raising funds that people tend to
enjoy, and so long as there is no immediate permitting issue (there usually isn’t, especially on
your own site) this is a fantastic way to coordinate outreach while making money at the same
time. It’s also a great educational project for students to build and run a farm stand. I
personally recommend that every community garden space has a stand created in case you
would like to run any event or small business venture onsite.
-How to ensure my community projects and events are successful?
Creating successful community projects is mostly just a matter of generating interest. People
are often not hard pressed to picnic and frolic in a beautiful outdoor space so long as they know
it’s there. Make sure your site is clearly marked and visible from street level if at all possible,
and try to generate further awareness through free advertising such as email lists, social media
sites as well as dedicated websites if you have the ability to create one. Flyering and word of
mouth are also incredibly viable tactics, or even the age old and incredibly inexpensive tactic of
chalk arrows drawn on the sidewalk to navigate wandering citizens from the surrounding area
works wonders in getting people to turn up! If you are creative and generate fun advertising
material for your programs people will have fun following suit and attending because of it.

-What is the value of a diverse garden space?
If your imagination isn’t already flooded with ideas you will soon read about many exciting
elements you can add to your developing site, such as plants, animals, teaching projects,
cooking stations and sustainable technology to name just a few endeavors. I would not heavily
recommend any in favor of another, but know that the more you have going on (so long as the
projects don’t conflict with the theme of the site or encroach on each other) the more
attractive and valuable the space will become to community members benefitting from your
work. It takes very little extra infrastructure to set up a composting system, create a dedicated
recycling space for neighbors, save local stray cats from starving and many other wonderful
goals beyond building a beautiful and bountiful space. Get gutsy and don’t let the potential go
to waste!
How to Structure My Greenspace:
-How do I map my site effectively?
There are many approaches to mapping, from elaborate ArcGIS computer maps to basic pen
and paper mockups. Really any is suitable so long as it’s thorough, although I would definitely
recommend that physical maps are converted to digital versions whenever possible to make
sharing them easier, either by photographing it or scanning it if it’s small. The only real benefit
of mapping on a computer is it’s often easier to edit after the fact, but honestly mapping isn’t
something you should have to worry about coordinating frequently. Just be sure to know how
big every area is, make sure the map is to scale and don’t leave out any key features, such as
utilities, designated areas, paths, impermeable surfaces and anything else worth noting
(including empty space!).
-What is the best way to remove trash from my site?
Depending on the space you score there may be a lot of trash onsite from the get-go.
Regardless, any space will eventually generate waste, and as such there needs to be a removal
plan which traditionally falls on the assistance of the city. If no formal trash pickup is
established for your site you should contact the city immediately. The service normally is free
for a non-profit garden or similar venture but they need to be notified of your projects
existence and location. Larger items may need to be removed through more elaborate
methods, look into your city’s local bulk trash pickup rules as well as what businesses may take
specific items you encounter. Companies will often will accept their products back for recycling
(and sometimes even pay you for them), such as e-waste (electronics), auto parts and batteries.
Scrapyards are also viable for large items such as cars if they have been abandoned on your
site, but be wary with any hazardous substances you may be removing (glass, medical waste,
old paint/chemicals, etc) and ensure that everything is removed safely and in accordance with
local laws.
-How do I identify salvageable materials within my trash?
Just like the old saying goes, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure, and this can often be
the case both upon acquiring a new site as well as throughout its operation. The best rule of
thumb is to not hold onto materials that aren’t inherently useful in an immediate timeframe,

but be practical in reusing materials whenever considering what should be saved. Salvaged
windows can be made into effective planting boxes, many stones and tiles can be used for
terraforming and just about anything can become an ornament to your site. See the true value
of the tools around you but don’t get in over your head!
-What should I do with all these rocks?
As you dig and clear out the grounds of your site you are likely to find a lot of rocks, especially
in an area never developed for planting. If rocks are at a problematic size to be left where they
are (a good standard is something you can’t completely close your hand around) you should
remove them if possible to free up space for your incoming plants. However, rather than letting
them become a newfound burden to you they can be utilized as a resource for further
developing your sites infrastructure. Path markers, bed borders and even reinforcement for
animal pens are just a few of the vital uses spare stones serve. Be sure to sort them by size and
apply them soon after you excavate them or they will tend to pile up. Don’t let these free tools
go to waste if at all possible!
-Should I worry about shade in my site?
Depending on the location of your space, you may be blessed or cursed by the absence or
presence of sunlight. Shadowing is an obstacle to consider when planning plantings, monitor
your site for the better part of a day to see where the sunny and shady patches are located and
zone projects accordingly. Many plants will tolerate little to no sun, and some will take nothing
less than full sun. Neither is particularly detrimental so long as you are aware of this and cater
to it beforehand.
-What should I do at my site at night?
Nighttime is often up in the air for site management. Depending on your terms of your use you
may or may not have the space past certain hours of the day to respect the neighbors, and
some greenspaces are located in unfavorable areas for evening activities, such as schools. Many
times it will also boil down to your capacity to manage the area daily. Don’t overstretch yourself
during dark hours as public spaces are frequented much less at night without particular reason
to be there, such as a special event.
-What kinds of utility access should I have on my site, if any?
Your space will face quite a bit of difficulty without immediate access to water (and to a lesser
extent, electricity), although management isn’t unthinkable without it. If there is no traditional
means of accessing these utilities already in the space you should look into contacting the city
to coordinate electricity from a streetlamp, as well as a water permit to use a local fire hydrant.
You can also investigate the possibility of passive systems, such as a rain catchment system
(which cities are often willing to fund the purchase of) and a solar array (if funds allow it). There
is also always the option of a portable generator for short-term projects, or even just bringing a
cooler of water to the site for small gardening projects. I would personally recommend against
relying solely on passive watering from the environment unless the site is only composed of
groundcovers, see what can be done and cater to your space accordingly.

-How should people carry themselves within the space?
The first rule of thumb is that everyone should carry themselves as equals, so if there is
something you don’t want visitors to do then you better not do it yourself. Generally, people
should respect the space, dispose of trash in proper receptacles (if it’s not a carry-in carry-out
site), wear proper attire (especially if working) and follow normal codes of conduct one would
hold themselves to in public. The hiccups you may encounter in your spaces are the personal
policies you establish on dogs, smoking, eating, noise and other variables. You will need to ask
yourself how best to handle them with respect to your surroundings.
-How do I keep visitors orderly and aware of my site’s rules?
Clear and effective rules are essential to creating a well-organized space, things that are
immediately apparent to someone putting 100 hours a week of work into a project won’t be as
obvious to someone who just ventured into the space from off the street. Make sure anything
worth noting to the public is prominently displayed for them to observe, including the name of
the site, hours of operation, how to gain access, who’s in charge, how to contact them, the big
do’s and don’ts, where the paths are and how to get involved further. Be creative with your
signage, pretty signs both enhance the space as well as draw visitors’ eyes to the message, and
student assistance is often a huge resource here, in my experience people are not likely to
ignore a child’s handmade sign no matter how unprofessional they may seem. You should also
look to the city for any official signage that can both certify the space and help make it appear
more accredited.
-How big should my plant beds be?
Beds should be large enough to house their resident plants without being so big that any
volunteer would be unable to take care of it. This means that paths and beds should be
designed together to promote access and navigability to the entirety of the plantable space,
don’t get overzealous with gigantic beds only to find you can’t water the center of them
without stepping on plants zoned on the edge. Feet should never step into your growing beds,
as it will at not only compact the soil but also likely squish your hard earned plants.
-What is the best way to design foot paths?
Paths must be designed to ensure visitors can get from point A to literally any conceivable point
they are allowed to go, and conversely should be entirely absent where you don’t want visitors
to travel. They must surround plant beds sufficiently to allow access to the entirety of the
space, be wide enough to be navigable and allow people to pass each other without falling into
adjacent structures as well. Ideally, they should be permeable by water if at all possible to add
to the environmental benefits of the site. They can be simply made of soil and outlined with
stones, achieved through spread gravel or even just plain woodchips, feel free to use what fits
your budget and on hand materials and it’ll be fine so long as it’s visually striking.
-How can I become less popular with weeds?
Weeds are the bane of any gardener’s work, but with effective care and control you can
organically tend to and prevent weed growth from getting a hold of your garden. From onset,
you are likely to face an uphill battle, but over time you will likely find that planned planting will

take a more successive hold over the space. There are quite a few different types of weeds out
there which are regionally specific, although you don’t need to become an expert on
identification you will need to visually familiarize yourself with what sorts of weeds are going
on within your site to ensure you can remove them without picking any plants with purpose by
accident. You would also do well to learn which weeds can and cannot be composted, as some
propagate through spreading seeds which will only die off in extreme heat, do not add these to
your composting systems or back into beds unless you have a comprehensive system to kill
them (sun scorching, baking in the oven, etc). Finally, while weeding, the main move is to
remove as much of the plant as possible, which most importantly includes the parts you can’t
readily see rather than the elements you can. Grasp weeds firmly at the lowest point of the
base and slowly pull them out, removing as much if not all of the root mass as possible,
otherwise the effort will be a waste as most weeds will grow back using what intact portion of
the plant remains in the soil.
-Is there any way to cut to the chase with all these plant pests?
Although there are many shortcuts in life, this is unfortunately not so true in gardening, at least
not initially. Although there are plenty of tools, herbicides (and pesticides) that may save
manual labor and stress, you must be aware of the chemical toll they may take on your space
(and absolutely inform visitors) before and after utilizing such methods. I would personally
avoid non-organic chemical application if at all possible to not risk contaminating human and
animal visitors alike, as well as barring your produce from being considered organic. There are
sustainable alternatives to hand pulling, such as smothering to starve and kill them off, as well
as the fact that proper weed management will inevitably lower and ideally stem weed growth
almost entirely over time, so don’t lose heart unless chemical warfare is absolutely
unavoidable.
-Is the sky really the limit for projects in my urban oasis?
You should realize that although you have a veritable blank canvass of infinite possibilities in
front of you it actually does have finite spatial limits to contain your vision. Understand the size
of your site and plan appropriately, don’t eat up too much of the ground space on installations
you do not want to serve as focal points. Understand that people will need to be able to
navigate the site with properly sized paths to walk on, and make sure plant beds are neither too
large to access for planting/watering/weeding/pruning/harvesting nor too small to cater to
their growing residents. Generally speaking, unless visitors are in a group they will likely spread
out, so cater to giving more open space versus less and the site should be fine.
-What should my basic garden task list entail?
There are many types of chores you will find yourself performing when taking care of a
greenspace, however some are quite standard. Watering, weeding, grounds cleanup and
general organization are all key to ensuring your site looks its best, which takes the lion’s share
of what makes up a first impression from visitors. Make sure to divide labor up fairly and in a
way you can manage, and luckily it has been my experience that many people within the urban
environment enjoy pitching in for the rare privilege to work with their hands and get in the dirt

regardless of how monotonous the labor may seem. Although you may find such activities to be
dull they are a treat for most, share the labor and make sure not to overexert yourself.
-How can I take my space to the next level?
There are many ways to make an outdoor greenspace fit with the modern environment while
still retaining its natural roots. Green infrastructure elements can both enhance the
sustainability and learning capacity of your site while costing very little (or sometimes even
saving money in the long run) if designed correctly. Inquire if there are any programs within
your city which will donate rain catchment systems, permeable pavement or other equipment
that can turn your garden into a bioswale (a landscaping element that controls runoff and
pollution). Small solar installations, weather stations, ornamental sun dials or even wind chimes
can really make your space pop with little to no investment, ideally serving as an additional
learning project for volunteers to construct with found materials! If you are consistently
creative the space will have no limit in its potential.
-Are high or low tech solutions better?
High or low, cost will often be the deciding factor, and unless you have a grant that forces you
to spend its entirety I would lean towards inexpensive as long as you don’t spare quality. People
often see urban gardens and public spaces as a retreat from the chaos of technocentric world
we live in, so it’s often refreshing to not have electronic elements overwhelm a greenspace.
However, the integration of nature and technology is also quite a fascinating concept for
highlighting how our natural needs can be made sustainable in our ever developing world.
Strike a solid balance that gels with the background of the site and you should be just fine.
-What obstacles should I be aware of before I setup any garden system?
Despite all good intents, nature does happen, and as such all structures will degrade to the
elements over time. The force from wind, the damage from rain, the warping from ice and the
exposure to sun should all be considered when building anything in your garden, nature will not
spare you from these factors no matter how much you spend. Plan with reasonable weather
conditions for your area in mind and insulate your purchase with precautionary measures to
prevent damage from foreseeable weathering.
-Should I keep plants indoors or outdoors?
Indoor and outdoor growing are both viable means for increasing natural elements within the
urban environment, the deciding factor for your site should be made by what makes the most
sense in your location and with your budget. Constructing a system will take an additional toll
on your funds versus traditional in-ground planting, but may also have the potential to upgrade
your growing to a full-year project rather than being entirely susceptible to elemental downfall.
There are seemingly limitless designs for greenhouses, hoop houses (imagine a greenhouse
that’s almost as effective for a fraction of the price), row covers (like blankets for plants), cold
frames (imagine a window on top of your garden bed) and many other methods exist to
insulate your plants livelihood. If the benefit of installing any of these outweighs the cost then
definitely go for it, none are particularly expensive if sourced correctly, nor are they difficult to
install or complex to manage and their potential to improve your work is immense. I personally

recommend looking into at least one of these methods to ensure your site isn’t lost for roughly
three to six months of the year.
-What about vertical growing, trellising and living walls?
Maximizing space is paramount when you’re building to optimize a designed environment.
Don’t view the terrain you control simply by the grounds surface area, all walls and airspace are
also viable real estate to improve as well! There are many plants that can be grown on any
means of trellising, and lots of plants welcome this encouraged vertical growth. From simple to
advanced designs, so long as you provide a structural helping hand nature will take the cue
from you and begin its adventure onward and upward, do not ignore this additional boon to
your garden. The design possibilities are endless, I’ve seen concepts as simple as setting up
fencing arbitrarily to cultivate vertical growth to ideas as exciting as bundling poles to let plants
create a natural teepees for children to play in. So long as plants can work with the plan it
should work out just fine.
-Why would I tuck my plants into bed?
Sometimes the easiest system for ensuring prolonged plant growth is simply by installing row
covers, which are basically floating sheets of material hung over plant beds. These insulate
crops from the elements and shelter them from the snow while retaining moisture, heat and
other life sustaining conditions required for growth. They are not without their downside
however, as beyond cost and setup they also do filter out some sun to your crops, so be aware
how permeable to light the material you are using truly is. Despite this, they are still a fantastic
option for easily extending the season, just ensure you have a watering system that works with
their design.
-How to best set up restrooms, sinks and all the dull stuff onsite?
If at all necessary (as some sites may be designed only for walk-in/walk-out visits) the quickest
and easiest way to do this is to think temporary and have someone else do it. If you are hosting
classes you will want to strongly consider having a bathroom facility, and if you are working
with anything edible you will need a sanitation station with potable water to wash both plants
and people. Many city programs offer discounted portable restroom facilities to urban garden
sites, and even without help a basic facility usually won’t run too pricey (and additionally come
with the benefit of having a company perpetually clean them for you). Alternatively, look into
partnering with a local business or organization with facilities within the immediate area if at all
possible. Regarding sinks, there are many ways to design simple systems without major
plumbing implements, such as foot pump sinks from a small self-filled tank, collapsible basins
for washing dishes and even just utilizing no-water sanitary products effectively, don’t feel
trapped because there are no utilities formerly established, there’s always a solution if you’re
willing to take the effort to think of it.
-What materials can and cannot be substituted?
There are very few hard and fast rules for substitutions beyond ensuring that the products you
go with aren’t something you need to fear will leach out into your soil. Be aware of plastics in
the garden as they will break down over time, and absolutely steer clear of pressure treated

wood when building anything as it will contaminate whatever it’s in contact with it. You should
also be aware of any paint used onsite and not go for questionable (or dangerously permanent)
alternatives (or at the very least be sure that you are using drop cloth and not destroying your
own grounds).
-How do I keep my site clean?
The key to keeping a space clean is building appropriate measures into day to day activities so
tidying doesn’t become a dreaded chore and maintains an equal part of making the site
function. No one wants to visit a dirty garden, and operations will suffer if the space is left
cluttered and unkempt. Invest in wall mounts to organize tools off the ground (which will also
keep them dry, preventing rusting), have plenty of brooms and trash removing supplies on
hand and do a daily sweep to clear any windborne litter that blew into the space (often the
largest contributor of trash) before visitors even arrive at the site that day.
It All Begins With Dirt:
-Is all soil created equal?
Soil is a very tricky beast, as a lot can be hiding under the surface. Without going into extreme
detail, soil (small rocks) usually range in particle size from sand (the largest and loosest) to clay
(the smallest and densest). Sandy soil allows plenty of space for oxygen and roots, but is terrible
at retaining water, whereas clay soil faces the opposite problematic scenario of no oxygen or
growth room but the capacity to hold water (however if it’s too dense it may be holding it at
the ground level where the plant still can’t get it. You ideally want to strike a balance between
the two, which is called a loamy soil (able to hold just the right amount of water, and has
enough space and oxygen for plants to grow in), which is said to have the best tilth (a term to
describe the quality of soil). The texture of soil alone isn’t what makes it magic however, it’s
also the nutrients that it (hopefully) contains. The ideal components of soil are nitrogen for
growth and lush leaves, phosphorous for blooms and root hairs, potassium to absorb trace
minerals, calcium to absorb nitrogen and promote protein synthesis, magnesium for making
chlorophyll and sulfur for making proteins and fats. Don’t worry about memorizing all that, but
make sure to play with your soil to see what type you have, as well as how compacted it is and
how well it drains.
-How do I find out if my soil is up to snuff?
If you are doing any project with the intent of producing edibles you will need to test your soil.
The process is relatively simple, inexpensive (expect under $100) and most of the work is
usually coordinated by an outside party. Look for local colleges and institutes that offer soil
testing near you and consider what packages sound the most appropriate for your needs (there
are usually a wide range of tests possible). As the soil collector, the standard procedure you will
likely need to follow is to dig several holes of equal depth around multiple locations on your
site, combine equal parts soil from each hole (removing any large debris) and combine the soil
samples to be shipped off to the testing facility (check the amount of soil they need
beforehand). Some things you will want to have tested for are major contaminants, nutrient

availability and pH before you take any further action to fix potential problems (or work around
them).
-What do I do if my soil is terrible?
If it is apparent (either by your testing or a previous record) that your soil is to be a terrible
force to be reckoned with, don’t panic, there are many solutions to amend and/or work around
this issue. If you are dead set on planting elements within the space you will definitely need
something to grow in, however soil can alternatively be purchased and added to raised beds,
greenhouses and planters (although it should not be mixed into contaminated soil to water
down contamination levels). You should also look into alternate planting systems, such as
growing out of hay bales (hollowing out the bale into an organic planter), creating a lasagna
garden (a veritable layer cake of compost, soil and nutrients that you plant directly into) or
simply creating a barrier before adding new material directly onto the site and starting from an
artificial base. Absolutely respect the situation you are in, but take comfort realizing that there
are many ways to work around any issue in planting.
-How do I ensure my soil is in peak condition?
Neck and neck for the most labor intensive and annoying chore in a greenspace is weeding and
tilling, as they consume an incredible amount of labor, time and energy. Despite this, they
ensure that your soil is ideal for plants, so they are not something to skimp on. Compacted (or
squashed) soil will have a much harder time taking in water, preventing plants from having free
reign to grow as well as working against worm activity, make sure to till and turn soil to direct
dirt traffic appropriately. You may also want to add additional nutrients, compost or flat out
better soil to the mix to improve your situation, which are all wonderful means to better the
quality of your land. The only pointer I would recommend is to look for less expensive ways to
make the ground greener, they usually take more creativity and effort but are definitely out
there and worthwhile.
*Start Here Once You Have Your Site Fully Drafted*
How to Manage Staff and Volunteers:
-Is it best to hold an open or closed door policy?
Many of your staff and visitors alike will likely be people right off the street strolling into your
space. That being said, it begs the question of if you should restrict who and when people are
able to enter the garden, which really just boils down to when the gate is open. The basic
models of management are either a fully open door policy without staff supervision, structured
open hour for the public or access only via membership and/or appointment. I personally feel
that it is in your best interest to keep the space as open as logistically possible, although I would
not feel comfortable having my own spaces open without some staff onsite at all times. Realize
that if people are allowed in “private” public spaces without wandering eyes it can invite bad
behavior, but when you build a healthy environment and have people present to monitor the
space you invite the best odds in your favor that this won’t be the case.

-How to recruit additional assistance?
Once you have visitors on the grounds, they will quite often find themselves falling in love with
the idea of a backyard away from home and look towards getting involved further. With proper
signage, staff and organizational materials present you will be able to transform this desire into
a veritable army of helpers who will tend to both their personal beautification projects as well
as the greater good of site by proxy. You can also look towards local schools to arrange free
field trips, internships and community service projects, which are all programs schools are
consistently looking to schedule. By speaking with them you are effectively making a logistically
simple (and free partnership) pitch to utilize the nature of your site with their active student
body, which will be a very appealing decision for them to consider. If you alternatively find that
you have more hands than you have work make sure to use one of them to pat yourself on the
back for managing successfully and then slap yourself for not being more creative with your
work. Your work capacity should exceed general maintenance, as this is when you now gain the
ability to improve and build your initiative even further, which can stretch towards literal
building, outreach, teaching, fundraising or any number of additional projects which any staff
member should be able to have a hand in (except perhaps grant writing, kids aren’t ideal for
that).
-What exactly are appropriate work clothes?
Despite how obvious it seems to you, in my experience recruiting staff there often seems to be
a disjoint between agreeing to get dirt under your nails and actually dressing the part. Make
sure people participating onsite are not setting themselves up for disaster, which includes
weather appropriate clothes (that they have no qualms about getting dirty, ripped and/or
covered in paint), closed shoes to prevent hurt toes (without heels to prevent trips on uneven
surfaces) and nothing with inappropriate writing and/or images on it (to maintain a good image
to the public). The site itself should provide gloves, as well as have sunblock on hand for
workers and students (which you should insist students under the age to argue otherwise put
on). Beyond that, you should feel free to design a code that fits your site, and remember that
tee shirts are a great inventive to get people involved in the garden while advertising the site at
the same time. If it’s in your budget see if you can make some apparel, or even better, design
unique homemade clothes with your staff!
-Should I pay employees or maintain a strict free labor policy?
This is a budgetary manner, and many public greenspaces simply do not have the funds to
provide salaries. Expect paying people to likely be the biggest part of your budget, and rightly
so, as it can (hopefully) guarantee the success of the space. This isn’t to say that free labor isn’t
just as (if not sometimes actually more) reliable versus paid help, but there is some sense of
responsibility people have to a job that earns them income as well as the reverse risk of not
receiving compensation when they fail to do so. Even so, unsalaried volunteers are likely not
working in your space by chance, many are incredibly dedicated for a multitude of alternative
reasons other than pay and will work themselves equally hard for their cause, so do not stress
just because you cannot afford to pay staff. Sometimes schools, corporations and similar
coordinating organizations will have stipends built into their joint educational training ventures

with your space, and merely need a venue to host the labor they would like to coordinate.
Finally, many volunteer organizations in cities look specifically to donate assistance for free as
part of a larger charitable system, such as New York Cares which has a rolling database of over
50,000 urbanites who just want to help their home out without compensation, be sure to talk
to outreach groups as they will likely be excited to help your interesting project.
-How do I schedule greenspace work into the outside lives of its staff?
No matter how streamlined and scientific your management approach is, it’s going to take a lot
of hours and hands. This is almost inevitably on top of everything else life throws at the people
involved in assisting the greenspace, including family, personal matters and quite possibly
another job altogether. Acknowledge this and don’t overwork anyone (including yourself) to
the bone. Much of this work may need to be stretched to evenings and weekends (when life
tends to hit less hard), schedule hours effectively to ensure there’s as little in the way of helping
as possible and you should be able to strike a great work/life/gardening balance suited to
everyone’s capacity. Take some relief in knowing that much of this work will serve as a break
for people, so don’t fear that it’s a dreaded chore to everyone involved unless you mistakenly
frame it as one, keep things fun and fresh and labor will not become an issue.
*Start Here Once You Have Your Site and Team Established*
Plants 101:
-What’s needed for a plant to live?
This may seem like a somewhat obvious question, but without keeping it in mind your plants
are doomed to lackluster lives at best. Sun, water, properly calibrated soil and a space that has
the room (both above and below ground) to grow are necessary, as well as proper pruning to
direct growth where you as the gardeners desire it (you may want to discourage horizontal
growth in trees and keeping edible plants from wasting energy on non-vital parts that you can’t
consume). Don’t worry about having an extensive knowledge of the science behind what you’re
growing, but realize that if you plant it by all means it should be fine unless something is
limiting its thriving survival, which you will need to address to ensure the beautification and
enhancement of your site.
-What’s a climate map and why is it the boss of my plants?
Climate maps show the general temperate patterns across the different regions and reflect
what weather should be expected granted a given location. From this information you should
have a solid idea of what sorts of plants should do well in your specific zone. As fun as the idea
may be, it’s ill advised to try to grow against your climate zone unless you have a very good plan
(and likely a fair amount of infrastructure) to make it work despite nature’s intent. These maps
can be readily and freely viewed online, and are relatively static concepts you should be able to
absorb quickly in one fell swoop. Familiarize yourself with one when you have the time if you
have never done so previously to ensure your planting works out fine.

-How long will my crops take to grow and how to select for the season?
This is another topic that is very specific to the plants you are trying to work with, and as an
effective gardener you will need to familiarize yourself with what plants your dealing with on a
case by case basis. Luckily, almost all the information you need will likely be printed on the seed
bag, plant label or easily researchable online for free, it just takes the time and foresight to
acquaint yourself with the matter. Again, don’t try to go against nature or you will inevitably be
throwing your money and labor away (unless you have a system in place to alter
seasonal/regional weather conditions). The best measure is to plan ahead and stagger your
work so that you are planting not with a mind for when the plants go in, but when they will be
ready to come out for harvesting. There’s little benefit to a showy flower or prolific garden
patch if there’s no one around to enjoy it, schedule the work around the people utilizing the
space.
-Should I use previously started plants to expedite growing?
You can also cut to the chase and merely purchase plants others have already done the dirty
work of starting for you, which in many species is both an easier and more successful approach
versus personal planting while frequently not breaking the bank much further than the seeds
themselves in the first place.
-How do I get my purchased plants into my garden?
Once you have chosen and picked up the starts and/or seeds, the real question is what to do
with them. Ideally you will have chosen a space for them beforehand, and even more ideal
would be if this location has neither previously hosted the same type of plant (to not risk the
specific nutrients required already being spent in the soil) nor a place without anything else
planted (by mixing plant species together you diversify soil requirements, confusing pests and
creating a mixed profile of growth so sun isn’t likely to be shaded out). If they are seeds you will
need to plant them, and generally speaking you will want to thin out seeds versus bunch them
up or they will outcompete each other. Very fine seeds can often be mixed with a little sand or
similar granular substance to be spread easier, and make sure the seeds are buried at the
appropriate depth (specific to the plant variety)! If you are dealing with starts then the bulk of
the work has already been done for you, but you will need to be careful removing plants from
trays (don’t pull on plants to remove them, try to dig the root ball out in its entirety or simply
cut the planter open). You will also likely need to break apart the roots if they are compacted in
the tray, gently fluff the bottoms of your plants to get the roots spread out. Make sure the hole
you dig for your starts is at least as deep as the soil ball containing the plant, if not slightly
deeper. Finally, don’t forget to mark what’s planted where or you might find yourself lost in a
non-discriminate field of green very quickly!
-To irrigate or not to irrigate?
When you have plants on your site, they will inevitably need water, the question is who should
be bothered to give it to them. If your site only contains small ground cover plants you might
opt to just let nature take its course. However, if there is an actual dedicated planting structure
in your space you will likely need some plan for watering. Going into the minutia of watering
plants isn’t necessary, so long as everything gets the amount of water it need and not at times

they don’t require it (when the soil is already saturated, when it’s likely to not dry off the
exterior of the plant and rot leaves, etc) you’ll be fine. The only thing I’d like to stress (whether
it’s a fancy irrigation system or a plain old watering can) is the simpler the better. The plants
will not know how the water gets to them so long as it does, your excess spending doesn’t
make a dime of difference if the labor you’re saving isn’t worth it, and often simpler systems
with fewer parts are more sustainable versus complex watering arrays, just be smart and don’t
overthink it.
-How do I know when my plants are thirsty?
The easiest way to tell (if it’s not immediately apparent by shriveled and droopy plants) is to
touch the soil to see if it feels moist. Both the look and feel of the soil are usually solid
indicators of if more watering is necessary. Conversely, remember that water should never be
pooling on top of the ground (that suggests that either the ground is supersaturated or way too
compacted to absorb water in the first place). Overwatering plants can kill them just the same
as under watering them, plant hydration should ideally be carried out within the daylight hours
to not leave unevaporated water on the plants’ leaves (which can cause them to rot). Finally,
make sure that the physical force put on plants as you water is not too aggressive, ad you want
to either water roots directly or mimic gently falling rain with your sprinkling technique.
Dumping a bucket of water on top of a flower will both damage the plant as well as improperly
distribute resources, so don’t do it.
-Do plants play nicely together?
As mentioned earlier, a key to raising a healthy garden is avoiding monocropping (planting just
one thing). Imagine if a movie theater was filled with a hundred clones of yourself, they would
all have the same favorite foods and the snack bar would sell out, they would all be the same
height so most of you would not be able to see the picture and advertisers would have a very
easy time choosing what previews to play to snare you into giving them more money. This
ideology is exactly why you don’t want to put a large group of the same plants in the same
space, it’s not a sustainable setup. They will all utilize the same soil nutrients and starve each
other, they will likely all grow to the same height and shade each other out and parasites will
have a cakewalk abusing your simplistic planting arrangement. Try mixing tall and ground
covers plants, combine entirely different species as well as long versus short season varieties.
Not only will it make the garden look better, but your plants will be healthier for it!
-Can I do anything with the seeds my plants produce?
Absolutely! Your site can very easily become self-propagating in subsequent plantings. Be
aware that seed saving is a viable way to both conserve funds as well as create fantastic
learning projects. Harvested seeds usually need to be dried before being stored, as well as
rehydrated before being put back in soil, and make sure to use an airtight vessel for long-term
saving of your soon-to-be plants.
-Are my crops organic?
This is a very loaded concept, ask the seller, consult the package as well as look into any history
of the plant before it came into your hands to best decide. If it’s organic upon purchase, for the

sake of talking about your farm by all means call it organic unless you add something inorganic
to the soil or surrounding area. However, for the sake of sales you might want to look into
getting the plant organically certified (or re-certified) if the proof would benefit you in a serious
distribution (don’t worry about bake sales and picnics). Organic and heirloom (historically
significant) plants are a wonderful ways to preserve valuable plants while promoting
sustainable and healthy practices, but it’s not the end of the world if your site can’t sport these
(slightly) more expensive plants.
-What is fertilizer and will I need it?
Fertilizers can vary greatly, from specially formulated chemical blends to plain old animal poop.
Be aware of how the fertilizer you’re considering will affect the larger picture of your garden.
Fecal based fertilizer should not be applied on sites growing edibles if at all avoidable and
anything organic will not qualify as such when chemical fertilizers are added. Some blends of
fertilizers will hurt plants if applied improperly (a high nutrient concentration applied directly to
plants will burn or kill them). That being said, they are not without benefit, and sometimes are
much easier for contributing specific nutrients necessary versus more sustainable methods.
Don’t add it as a necessity, consult your soil report (which you should have done upon
conception of the garden) and see what you need. Consider compost as another viable option
and weigh the pros and cons appropriately.
Creepy Crawlers 101:
-What are the good, the bad and the ugly bugs?
Not all bugs are bad, but they aren’t all going to lend you a helping hand either. Spiders do their
share of work in the garden (eating problematic insects) and should be left alone unless they
are of a poisonous variety. Worms are fantastic contributors to soil quality and should be left
alone to work on organic matter. Butterflies will help with pollinating plants and so will any
bees you may be harboring as well. Ladybugs will help control aphids but let them occur
naturally as purchased ones may carry diseases. Ants should be left alone unless specifically
disturbing anything or located too close for comfort to a human food source. Beetles are
sometimes your helpful, however but large grubs (which often become Japanese beetles) will
eat plants, remove them by hand if you are able to find them. Slugs and snails won’t help your
plants and can be removed by hand to be fed to animals or put in their own closed off area (or
better yet in your compost). Standing water is attractive to mosquito breeding and should be
removed immediately; they are of no benefit to your work at all. If your compost has uncovered
food you are inviting flies to dine, which are also not an insect doing you a favor with its
presence. Caterpillars will indiscriminately nibble leaves as their primary food source; remove
single insects as well as spun nests (by twirling a stick into their home like a fork in spaghetti)
whenever you find them. Praying mantises are rare but very beneficial predator insect; if
someone finds one in your garden they get definitely a gold star for the day!
-Can I skip the small talk and use pesticides?
Similar to the herbicide discussion, you definitely want to think twice before doing so. As
previously noted, many bugs are actually quite beneficial, and pesticides are usually non-

discriminate in killing many if not all insects they come in contact with. Chemical pesticides will
also contaminate water, soil, animals as well as force you to kiss calling anything organic onsite
goodbye. It’s usually best to avoid such methods in small urban gardens unless absolutely
necessary and you will need to label the grounds appropriately if you do decide to use them.
However, there are many holistic alternatives that can be made out of non-toxic ingredients to
help in your work, and even manually combing plants beds for bugs is a viable pest control
option. You can wash out soil beds with water to flush nitrogen (which will remove aphids,
often the most frequent insect perpetrator in my experience) , and many pests can be removed
by hand (which makes for a surprisingly enjoyable student project). I lean towards the side of
spending the extra minutes to scrub produce and comb soil for slugs to give me peace of mind
on not using chemicals, saving money and still keeping the grounds from getting dicey in the
process.
*Start Here Once All Your Plants are in the Ground*
Composting 101:
-What is compost and why should I care?
Compost is an incredible soil amender made from broken down organic material. The
composition of compost is largely a mix of carbon heavy (brown material, such as leaves and
sticks) and nitrogen heavy (green material, such as grass and food scraps) materials which have
been given the proper conditioning and time to break down into a crumbly rich organic matter
that’s easy to add to planting projects to both improve the nutrition, water retention as well as
structure of soil. It should almost inevitably be a free resource to your project granted you have
the time and ambition to create it. The materials to do so are often already in your possession
or soon will be through repurposing your waste stream and it makes for an excellent learning
experience to boot!
-How can I get my own compost?
Although you can purchase compost or frequently source it for free from city programs (if you
have the time to wait), nothing beats making your own. Materials for compost should be readily
available on your site, such as leaves, grass, spoiled fruits/vegetables and just about any other
organic items you can get your hands on. You can also compost unsoiled paper in larger
systems, and tea/coffee grounds are also viable granted it’s not contaminated with excessive
amounts of sugar or dairy. There are many systems to develop your own compost, but in a
nutshell so long as your pile of organic material doesn’t get too wet (it should be no more moist
than a wrung out sponge) and has decent aeration to allow microorganisms to thrive and assist
in breakdown (move the material periodically to ensure this us the case) it will eventually break
down into a radically different looking material from its source components, ready to benefit
your garden wherever you so choose!

-Should my compost run hot or cold?
Compost will run a wide gambit of temperatures depending on the style and content of the
pile. Nitrogen heavy piles can run quite hot as organic activity comes to a high point, which is
because microorganisms are hard at work chemically breaking down all the nutrients you have
gifted them. The compost will not always stay this way though, as eventually the process cools
down to give way to breakdown by more visible critters, such as the many insects that will
physically break down the pile further. Alternatively, carbon heavy piles take a lot longer to be
turned into workable compost as they generally run a lot colder. Cold carbon piles can create
structurally superior material excellent in water retention for conditioning your soil compared
to nitrogen heavy piles, however they are not optimal if your end goal is quickly finished
nutrient filled compost. Whichever style suits the material you’re working with will eventually
produce something far better than the source inputs, but be aware that nitrogen diverse piles
will yield more nutritionally beneficial compost for your garden versus more uniform inputs,
play around with your source materials and do what makes the most sense for the site.
-What does and doesn’t compost?
Most items that come from nature will be fine for your compost given enough time (though
some take drastically longer than others), it’s in your stronger benefit to internalize the list of
items that don’t belong in a traditional pile. Don’t try to compost poop (from any source) unless
you have an incredibly hot pile to kill off the associated bacteria if you intend to use it on
edibles. I would recommend not composting bio-plastic (plastic made from corn or other
natural sources) or paper unless you have a large or industrial grade system (although they can
technically break down, they likely will not in smaller and colder piles). Do not add meat, bread
or sugar laden foods unless you’re running a compost fermenting process first as they will
attract pests and not break down properly due to preservatives and their overall density (we
will review how to ferment compost later in this chapter). Remember that any food items you
add should be buried to not attract flies or rodents. Do not add weeds unless they have been
treated with heat beforehand to kill their seeds and you are absolutely sure they are not of a
problematic variety. If you ever have any specific questions I suggest you check a resource in a
book or online, but normally such questions should be relatively straightforward.
-How do I make the best compost?
Making an effective composting system isn’t incredibly challenging, as the means to succeed
are actually very simple. Compost needs air and to stay damp without being too wet or it will
clump up and become anaerobic, which will be very apparent by its ammonia smell. Bacteria
can’t break down material for larger organisms under such conditions, so keep turning and
draining your pile appropriately. Conversely, if it’s too dry, the system will take a very long time
to begin decomposing. Manually rotating compost will also allow critters to gain access to new
areas by exposing it to open air, so you will want to move the material around every so often.
Items going into the pile should generally be made small, either by breaking them up
beforehand or chopping them with tools as you turn material, but make sure pieces are no
bigger than your thumb for a good bar standard. Additionally, never use pressure treated wood
to build your bin, as the entire project is perpetually breaking down (the bin itself included) and
you will contaminate the finished product with any construction materials you don’t want in

your soil. Zoning your bin is also key, do not put your bin against a wall as rats are relatively
blind and mostly navigate by moving along them. By locating your bin against a vertical surface
you are essentially putting an express lane for rats to consider your compost for food and
shelter, try to pull it away at least slightly from any upright structures and they will be harder
pressed to travel to it.
-What are the different types of bins and piles?
There is an incredible variety of dedicated composting bins and ways to arrange a pile, it’s best
to become familiar with some of them to know where to research further. Basic standing bins
are either open (normally through slats as well as entirely on top) or closed on all sides except
for small vents. The more open air that hits your pile the more quickly you can speed up the
process, however this does expose the pile further to the elements and potentially pests. There
are tumbling bins which use barrel-shaped designs to easily rotate so aerating the pile is as
simple as possible, however it’s worth noting that tumbling bins can often become incredibly
difficult to move once your pile gets to a decent size. There are also basic leaf corrals which are
traditionally made of roll-out fencing surrounding a pile of leaves and lawn debris, and even
entirely open piles with no structure built around them. Consider what sort of material you
expect to have going into your pile as well as what’s situationally, logistically and visually
appropriate for your site and choose the most suitable corresponding compost method.
-Should I raise my compost off the ground?
Raising compost materials off the ground has several distinct benefits and downsides. Critters,
both good and bad, will have a much harder time getting into your pile if it’s not directly
touching soil (many bins have no bottom and are built right on the ground), and additionally it
prevents the compost from feeding nutrients directly back to the soil it’s in contact with.
However, raising the bin off the ground gives another angle for open air to come in contact with
the bin which will speed up breakdown. Tumbling bins, although off the ground normally, do
not usually have these benefits or drawbacks since they are traditionally sealed systems with
little open air access or ideal entry point for beneficial bugs or curious pests. Again, I would
recommend following what makes the most sense based on your experience composting on the
site previously.
-What about worms?
Worms are very useful in a composting system, so much so that many systems are dedicated
solely to catering to harvest worm castings (the highly nutrient rich leftovers of what they eat).
Vermicompost is usually made from red worm excretions, a different type of worm from your
typical garden variety which exclusively eats organic matter. They are able to eat their weight in
food every day, which may not seem like a lot, but a typical worm bin usually has around a
pound of worms in it from the get-go (~1,000 worms) which will by proxy need seven pounds of
organic edibles a week to keep them going (and more as they reproduce). These systems are
very simple compared to compost bins, often taking much less time and management while
following the same ideology. Newspaper can serve as the filler within these piles to create
edible bedding for worms, which must be shredded into long strips and kept at the same
“wrung out sponge” moisture standard. Food scraps should always be buried in the newspaper

to prevent attracting flies to the project. The bin itself can be as simple as a modified sealed
container with some slats for air access, and these bins can purchased or built with very little
skill or money. Harvesting from a worm bin is a bit more meticulous of a process, as you will
want to separate your worms from the finished product so they can continue doing their job.
You can either manually separate worms from their castings or, if you have the time, begin only
adding food to one side of the bin and harvest as the worms migrate from the alternate food-
free side.
-Are there any other methods you might recommend considering?
There are several other ways to compost beyond traditional methods, which are also just as
viable. Bokashi composting is a fermenting system (like kombucha) in which any food items
(including meat, bones and bread, which do not normally go in compost) are added to a special
vinegar-like solution and left to sit for roughly a month to break down in a conditioning step
before normal composting. This prepping denatures many complex items that normally would
not work in traditional compost as well as creating a smell that has the benefit of discouraging
rodent predation (although I have heard mixed conclusions on this). Mulch mowing is a simple
system in which lawns are trimmed and clippings are left directly on the lawn, which is an
effective way to add quickly decomposing nutrient rich material directly to a site that needs it.
You must take care when doing this however, as if done improperly or too aggressively it has
the potential to smother a lawn and cause it to rot, giving way to weeds and fungus. Compost
tea is a frequent follow-up to traditional methods which is surprisingly very close to what it
sounds like. By taking a permeable material filled and closed off with finished compost you can
steep it in a container of water to let the nutrients leech out into a wonderful liquid compost
additive for plants. This process takes very little time to make, but be sure to use the finished
tea soon after you brew it as the nutrients will denature quickly, just distribute it on whatever
plants you think need a boost! There are many creative systems out there, by looking into what
materials you have on hand as well as the nature of your site you will be led to the best suited
solution.
-What do I do with my finished compost?
Put it on your plants! Compost can be readily applied and mixed into soil beds that you’re
prepping yourself, however remember that it is not a substitute for soil altogether. Compost
may need to “cure” for a good grace period once made before it’s directly applied to plants as,
similarly to fertilizers, it can hurt and/or kill plants by chemically burning them if an abundance
of nutrient rich material is added directly to a plant. You can also look into selling it, applying it
to city tree pits or giving it away to local gardeners! Compost is an actively sought tool by
anyone working with plants, if you put the word out you’ll definitely have interested parties
who would like to take the finished product off your hands.
Teaching 101:
-What’s the value of experience based education?
School is not always a kid’s favorite subject, but luckily, field trips and enjoying the outdoors
rank significantly higher. Experience based education is the tool in your teaching arsenal to sell

the site you are developing to schools and students alike, as learning will be enjoyably driven
through interactive work utilizing visible and tangible concepts. This direct form of learning
engages students and is an incredibly viable teaching method, so know from the get-go that
you are standing on one of if not the best stage to promote learning.
-What’s the value of healthy food and physical activity?
Beyond the obvious answer, there are lots of healthy lifestyle lessons built into urban
greenspaces, from being outdoors to regular physical activity and even promoting organic food
options. By selling these ideas through the use of the space you prove value both for
sustainable lifestyles as well as the preservation of the public places. Ensure that the apparent
benefits of your project are not just environmental; also remember to highlight the educational
and social benefits inherent in your work.
-How do I get participants to try new things?
Kids are picky about a lot of things, from food to fun, and sometimes winning this battle in your
favor will not come without a fight. Framing is essential, and that can come in many forms,
from making watering plants into a game to adding cheese to a vegetable dish. I have
personally had little trouble selling foods and activities to students, as nobody wants to be left
out and free food is always appealing regardless of what’s in it. If students are hesitant to try a
dish you should try it yourself in front of them (and you should have insulated this bet by trying
it previously while cooking). If activities and foods truly aren’t their passion however don’t force
the issue, find alternatives and let them achieve learning in their own way.
-Should I host sporadic field trips or set up dedicated classes?
This is a capacity question that will easily dictate a lot of your traffic. Being host to just
occasional field trips will likely entail fewer visitors over time versus a dedicated ongoing class,
and both have their benefits and drawbacks. Continuous teaching builds on lessons and
develops the learning process further with students, as well as granting them the benefit of
literally seeing the fruits of their labor as they have the class time for plants to develop. Hosting
multiple field trips brings many diverse groups to the farm, and although they are only
privileged with one rapid-fire burst of learning, if coordinated effectively, you can stagger a lot
of students over a very short period of time versus investing heavily in each student. I would
say that both are solid choices so long as the space is being utilized as much as can be managed,
but there is the issue of ensuring everyone gets the attention they deserve. You will need to
consider the ability of your staff to manage students as well as the spatial configurations of the
site when looking into how large a class you should be inviting, as well as whether you have the
ability to work with multiple schools at the same time. You will also need to address the issue of
passive visitors while you host schools - will you have a closed door policy during a scheduled
class or can you ideally cater to outsiders coming in and observing your hard work in action?
-What’s the best way to manage a classroom?
The teaching you do will not be a hard sell, students will be thrilled to be out of their normal
classroom during school, so take comfort in that. Additionally, interactive elements inherent to
the types of tasks at hand in a greenspace will only interest them further. However, this is

something of a double-edged sword, as the uncaged nature of your educational space can
make kids go wild, and you will need to address this both for their safety and in order to ensure
the message of your time together is not lost. Letting students lead in activities is often a solid
approach. Most tasks you perform (beyond heavy lifting) should also be performable by
younger students with proper instruction (one of the beauties of managing a greenspace is the
universally shared nature of its work, anyone can become a steward and enhance it if they so
choose regardless of age, education or ability). There are also a lot of imaginative ways to make
activities fun through games in the garden, and feel free to put on some tunes to keep the
energy going too!
-How do I establish a curriculum?
A garden plus students does not equal a classroom by nature, there needs to be some
semblance of a lesson plan in place to back up the fantastic experiences you conduct with
students and to ensure there is a take-home message. There are many curriculums you can
utilize from public sources if you do not have the head to design one yourself, but in my
experience, the best course of action is to build your teaching around the chores necessary to
make the space thrive and extrapolate the education from there. Managing a community
greenspace in the urban jungle is lesson enough for how vital this work is, however all the
onsite activities will inevitably highlight quite a bit of science, art, physical education, writing
and even math concepts. Don’t be afraid to make a stretch into any relevant subject and
definitely incorporate time for participants to reflect and write on what happened! Even when
coordinating a short class I always conclude with a recap of everything done that day, which
often stretches farther than students can remember. You can squeeze in a lot of learning in
very little time under such unique conditions for participants. Make sure that there are
elements in your plan that leave with visitors, such as take-home recipes, art, food, plants and
writing responses. Don’t let students exit the site without bringing concepts back home that
leave a lasting impression!
-How do I effectively assign students to assist my work?
As noted before, jobs should (generally) be all-access, none of the work onsite will be especially
complex or require a specific background to understand and effectively achieve. That being
said, there still needs to be a concerted effort towards distributing labor properly. Be aware of
what jobs need to be done and how many students are necessary to assign work appropriately,
which will likely take some active learning. I have found in my teaching that it’s a very useful
incentive to divide up students into different jobs and rotate them, as everyone will inevitably
hone in on a favorite and become excited at getting to participate in said role. Smaller groups
also (generally) tend to be more focused on tasks at hand, students can get lost when an entire
class sets out just to water a site. Finally, make sure especially labor intensive jobs do not wear
out workers, and schedule frequent water breaks!
-How do I best incorporate recycling into student learning?
We are fortunate in that the three R’s are now hard coded into most kids’ minds. Even so, they
may not actually understand the practical application of reducing, reusing and recycling, as well
as the priority order of the three. To begin any talks on recycling, you should first spearhead a

discussion explaining that reducing and reusing are much more sustainable environmental
actions (in that order). It’s better for kids to never purchase that plastic bottle in the first place.
If they do, perhaps they can make an art project out of it such as a hanging planter for the
garden, but at the very least it should be recycled. Before heading full bore into any major
lesson plan on the subject, you must first be familiar with local recycling codes as the educator.
These rules are not universal (and often can be somewhat open to interpretation
unfortunately), as not all recycling facilities are prepared to take every material. In New York
City we recently received clearance for recycling rigid plastics, regardless of whether there is a
number within the recycling triangle on them. This can be decided by a squeeze test for
resistance (so cling wrap is not recyclable but a container is). Generally, all metal and glass is
recyclable, and can often be combined with plastic. Soiled paper of all kinds (pizza boxes,
napkins, paper plates, etc) is not recyclable, and electronics (or e-waste) needs to be processed
separately from traditional curbside recycling in most instances. Also, be aware that large
pieces of plate glass need to be disposed of separately from glass bottles for safety reasons.
Most clean paper is recyclable, including newspaper and cardboard, and can be mixed together.
Make sure that separating is exciting for students, potentially in the form of a game or relay
race, and ideally try to prepare a wide array of clean recycling items beforehand for them to
practice with before disassembling actual litter. Also, be aware that some foods can be used for
compost or brought to a food pantry if possible. I have run many projects where students
successfully separated their lunch leftovers, and you would be shocked how quickly you can
transform this one simple building experience at your site into a life lesson and daily activity for
participants. Examine what can be kept from the trash and reduce as much waste as you can!
-How do I get the parents involved?
Getting parents involved in the garden is a fantastic means to extending learning as well as
catering to ongoing stewardship of the space. Families will often jump at the opportunity to
take care of a personal plot if your site caters to such efforts, and even just offering a location
for picnics and family trips is a huge service in itself. If you have the ability to highlight student
projects, you can bet parents will want to visit their young learners’ work. Find ways to invite
parents through sending students back with materials offering future fun for them and you will
have an army of visitors (and often helpers) on your hands!
-Any not-so-obvious pointers?
Make sure everyone is hydrated at all times. Young or old, we all face the same heat. You would
be surprised how often people forget to drink water, and a heatstroke can come on hard and
fast, especially while doing manual labor outdoors. The responsibility of providing water should
honestly fall on the conscientious manager, but fear not, a large cooler readily stocked with
water and adjacent cups is all it takes (which costs very little and should ideally be a one-time
purchase). Remember to fill it daily, keep it cold if possible and encourage water breaks to use
it. Additionally, I would strongly recommend developing a free-dig area within your space
regardless of the overall focus of the project. Urban residents rarely have a chance to get their
hands dirty and sandboxes, which provided some of the rare instances kids had to so, have
been commonly removed from parks as of late. Just having a no-rules box of dirt, lame as it may

How to Save the Urban Environment in 128 Steps

How to Save the Urban Environment in 128 Steps

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