Travel Saturday Guardian 08.11.08                                                                                                                                                                                          13


Exotic
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91 Singapore                                                                                                                                                                       Church, the Ben Ezra Synagogue and
                                               92                                                                                                                                  the Ibn Al-Aas mosque. Cairo is known
Aun Koh, author of foodie website                                                                                                                                                  as the “city of a thousand mazanah”
chubbyhubby.net                                                                                                                                                                    (mosque towers), and the Sultan
Anyone who claims that Singapore is                                                                                                                                                Hassan mosque is considered to be one
boring hasn’t been for a few years. Not                                                                                                                                            of Cairo’s finest monuments, while the
only does the city-state boast some                                                                                                                                                Mohammad Ali (pictured) and Bayt Al-
of the best restaurants and boutiques                                                                                                                                              Suhaymi mosques are also spectacular.
in southeast Asia, it also has a pretty                                                                                                                                            Finish with sunset over Cairo from Al
exciting roster of annual events.                                                                                                                                                  Azhar Park before going to Wekalat Al
We’re currently at the tail end of the                                                                                                                                             Ghouri for the fascinating Sufi dancing.
second Singapore Biennale, which                                                                                                                                                   • intrepidtravel.com. Esam recently won
has featured some of the world’s top                                                                                                                                               gold in the Paul Morrison Guide Award
contemporary artists, plus famed                                                                                                                                                   2008, hosted by Wanderlust magazine.
architects like Shigeru Ban. And the                                                                                                                                               Stay at The Talisman Hotel (0020 10
gastronomic scene is no longer just                                                                                                                                                62 12, talisman-hotel.com) doubles fr
about street food; gourmands should                                                                                                                                                £120pn.
make a beeline to Iggy’s for some of the
best contemporary east-meets-west
                                                                                                                                                                                   99 Beirut
fare on the planet.
• Iggy’s, The Regent Singapore, Level 3,                                                                                                                                           Dalila Mahdawi,
1 Cuscaden Road (0065 6732 2234, iggys                                                                                                                                             journalist Daily Star, Beirut
.com.sg). Aun is also founder of the                                                                                                                                               A leisurely stroll from Abdul Wahab
new Miele Guide to Asian restaurants                                                                                                                                               Street in the predominantly Christian
(mieleguide.com).                                                                                                                                                                  quarter of Achrafieh down to
Stay at Hotel 1929 (+6347 1929, hotel29                                                                                                                                            Gemmayze gives you an idea of the
.com) doubles from £60.                                                                                                                                                            quiet streets and attractive houses
                                               of places. The Omotesando boulevard         Then head to Olypub, a shabby, lively    99306); Venom, 8th floor, Fort Knox,            that used to characterise Beirut.
                                               in Harajuku is very well known as a         institution on Cal’s main drag, where    Camac St (+33 325 2290).                       Then head to the Manara Cafe next
92 Kathmandu
                                               mecca for lovers of contemporary            students, artists and professional       Stay at Housez 43 (+91 33 2227 6020,           to the lighthouse on the Corniche
Sam Taylor, journalist                         architecture, but few people know           dilettantes get eye-rollingly drunk      housez43.com) have doubles from £59pn.         to see fishermen in action. For more
Kathmandu is full of cafes selling lassis      that the area’s back streets are riddled    on bad whiskey. After midnight go to                                                    bohemian pursuits, Club 43 is a
and banana pancakes to trekkers and            with contemporary art galleries. On the     Venom, a club situated on the top of a                                                  restaurant/bar in Beirut’s hippest
                                                                                                                                    97 Damascus
dharma seekers, but the unnamed                south east corner of the Omotesando/        tower block in the centre of town. On                                                   nightspot, Gemmayze — a non-profit,
bhatta (pub) on the western side of            Aoyama Dori intersection, look up           weekends it stays open till dawn, and    Diana Darke, author                            anti-sectarian NGO run entirely by
Patan’s medieval Durbar Square is              at the second floor window of the            you can see the whole of the city from   Where else could you find a Roman               volunteers and set in what looks like
seriously authentic. The service is            building opposite for the words             its windows.                             arch on a street mentioned by name             someone’s slightly run-down home.
terrible and the tiny wooden benches           “Gallery 360º”, a small white cube          • Kewpies, 2 Elgin Lane (0091 33 2475    in the Bible, now lined with Sunni and         • Manara Palace Cafe, Cornic
uncomfortable, but it’s not often              where you’ll find exhibitions by Yoko        9880); Olypub, 21 Park St (+33 222       Shi’a mosques, Greek Catholic and              375 3887); Club 43 (Gouraud Street,
you can eat, drink and people-watch            Ono among others. Nearby, in the                                                     Greek Orthodox churches, bakeries,             +370 8811).
smack bang among the stunning 16th             block behind the Prada flagship store,                                                grocers, pharmacies and antique                Stay at L’Hotel Libanais (+351 3766,
century temples. The popular spot              is Rat Hole Gallery, which specialises in                                     98     shops? In Damascus remnants of                 hotelibanais.com) doubles from £41pn.
lies down a smoke-blackened entry              world-class photography.                                                             civilisations blend and contrast. During
sandwiched between two shops selling           • Rat Hole Gallery, B1 5-5-3, Minami                                                 Ramadan go to the iftaar (the evening
                                                                                                                                                                                   100 Marrakech
brass statues, just behind the Krishna         Aoyama, Minato-ku (0081 3 6419                                                       meal that breaks the daily fast) in the
Mandir temple in Patan’s Durbar                3581, ratholegallery.com); Gallery                                                   magnificent courtyard of Bait Jabri,            Dawn Boys-Stone, riad owner
Square (pictured) and has uniquely             360º, 5-1-27-2F, Minami Aoyama,                                                      a restaurant in the old city — it is a         Apart from the legendary souks, I love
close-up views of a jewel of a Unesco          Minato-ku (+3 3406 5823, 360.co.jp);                                                 wonderfully civilised occasion where a         the local Bab Kechich market. At first
world heritage site. The chang (rice           Art Space Tokyo (artspacetokyo.com).                                                 massive spread costs only £6.                  glance it seems little more than a grot
beer) is always fresh and tasty, and the       Stay at Mitsui Garden Ginza                                                          • Bait Jabri, Al-Sawaf Street (00963 11        Moroccan car boot sale (yes, second
spicy snacks are delicious.                    (+81 335 431 131, gardenhotels.                                                      541 6254, jabrihouse.com).                     hand shoes, brok
Stay at The Dwarikas Hotel (00977              co.jp) doubles from £136pn.                                                          Stay at The Beit Al Mamlouka (+963             car parts should you wish) but you can
1447 3725, dwarikas.com) doubles from                                                                                               11 543 0445, almamlouka.com) has               also procure fabulous gems that you
£114pn.                                                                                                                             doubles from £106pn.                           would pay a great deal more for in the
                                               95 Cartagena
                                                                                                                                                                                   souks. The vendors are friendly and
                                               Simon Locke,                                                                                                                        very few tourists venture there.
93 Valparaiso                                                                                                                       98 Cairo
                                               co-director, Columbia 57 Tours                                                                                                      Stay at Dawn owns Riad Fawakay (+212
Matt Ridgway, writer of Chilean travel         Carved from a colourful history of                                                   Esam Abd El Salam,                             73187346, riad fawakay.com) which c
blog corrugatedcity.com                        piracy and colonialism, with fusions                                                 guide, Intrepid Travel                         be rented from £200pn based on four
As a city built into the hills (which          of African, indigenous and European                                                  A visit to Coptic Cairo shows a                people sharing two rooms.
affords views of both the Andes and the         culture, Cartagena is Colombia’s living,                                             completely different aspect of the city
Pacific) “Valpo” showcases the crazy            breathing, pulsating museum. At night                                                to the Pyramids and the Sphinx. Here,          Compiled by Gemma Bowes, Lauren
feats of late 19th-century architectural       heels click instinctively to the throb                                               there are holy buildings for Judaism,          Cochrane, Laura Goodman, Benji
engineering. But recently it has seen an       of salsa at Café Havana. A number                                                    Christianity and Islam only few steps          Lanyado, Paul McCann, Mat Osman
explosion of murals, street art, cafes,        of magnificent boutique hotels have                                                   away from each other. Visit the Hanging        and Annabelle Thorpe
bars and restaurants. Each peak has            sprung up in the colonial mansions in
its features; from poet Pablo Neruda’s         the old town, such as La Casa Pestagua
house on Cerro Bellavista, through the         and La Passion.
three cemeteries on Cerro Panteón to           • Café Havana, Calle Media Luna (0057
the great bars and restaurants of Cerro        315 690 2566, cafehavanacartagena.
Alegre and Cerro Concepción. In the            com); La Casa Pestagua (+315 664 95 10,
latter, Allegretto is a great spot for local   casapestagua.net); Columbia 57 Tours
draught beer.                                  (0800 0789 157, colombia57.com).
• Allegretto, Pilcomayo 529 (0056 32           Stay at La Passion (+57 5664 8605,
296 8839, allegretto.cl).                      lapassionhotel.com) doubles
Stay at The Hotel Gervasoni (+3222             from £77pn.
39236, hotelgervasoni.com/eng) doubles
from £100pn.
                                               96 Calcutta
                                               Patrick Pringle, journalist and former
94 Tokyo
                                               reporter for the Calcutta Telegraph
Ashley Rawlings, editor, Art Space Tokyo       Mumbai has all the Bollywood
One of the greatest aspects of living          glamour, Delhi is India’s political
in Tokyo is the endless discovery of           Disneyland, but in many ways Calcutta
artistic nooks and crannies. Galleries         is its soul. A night out in “Cal” starts
and museums are spread out all over            at Kewpies, owned by a lady who runs
the city and hidden in the unlikeliest         the finest kitchen in West Bengal.




*
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Guardian

  • 1.
    Travel Saturday Guardian08.11.08 13 Exotic CO2 emissions Each week The Guardian pays Climate Care This week’s CO2 emissions: 8.81 tonnes a fee to offset the carbon emissions produced Total cost: £27.85 on journeys taken by our writers, with the money going to green projects around To offset your carbon emissions, go to the world. guardian.co.uk/climatecare 91 Singapore Church, the Ben Ezra Synagogue and 92 the Ibn Al-Aas mosque. Cairo is known Aun Koh, author of foodie website as the “city of a thousand mazanah” chubbyhubby.net (mosque towers), and the Sultan Anyone who claims that Singapore is Hassan mosque is considered to be one boring hasn’t been for a few years. Not of Cairo’s finest monuments, while the only does the city-state boast some Mohammad Ali (pictured) and Bayt Al- of the best restaurants and boutiques Suhaymi mosques are also spectacular. in southeast Asia, it also has a pretty Finish with sunset over Cairo from Al exciting roster of annual events. Azhar Park before going to Wekalat Al We’re currently at the tail end of the Ghouri for the fascinating Sufi dancing. second Singapore Biennale, which • intrepidtravel.com. Esam recently won has featured some of the world’s top gold in the Paul Morrison Guide Award contemporary artists, plus famed 2008, hosted by Wanderlust magazine. architects like Shigeru Ban. And the Stay at The Talisman Hotel (0020 10 gastronomic scene is no longer just 62 12, talisman-hotel.com) doubles fr about street food; gourmands should £120pn. make a beeline to Iggy’s for some of the best contemporary east-meets-west 99 Beirut fare on the planet. • Iggy’s, The Regent Singapore, Level 3, Dalila Mahdawi, 1 Cuscaden Road (0065 6732 2234, iggys journalist Daily Star, Beirut .com.sg). Aun is also founder of the A leisurely stroll from Abdul Wahab new Miele Guide to Asian restaurants Street in the predominantly Christian (mieleguide.com). quarter of Achrafieh down to Stay at Hotel 1929 (+6347 1929, hotel29 Gemmayze gives you an idea of the .com) doubles from £60. quiet streets and attractive houses of places. The Omotesando boulevard Then head to Olypub, a shabby, lively 99306); Venom, 8th floor, Fort Knox, that used to characterise Beirut. in Harajuku is very well known as a institution on Cal’s main drag, where Camac St (+33 325 2290). Then head to the Manara Cafe next 92 Kathmandu mecca for lovers of contemporary students, artists and professional Stay at Housez 43 (+91 33 2227 6020, to the lighthouse on the Corniche Sam Taylor, journalist architecture, but few people know dilettantes get eye-rollingly drunk housez43.com) have doubles from £59pn. to see fishermen in action. For more Kathmandu is full of cafes selling lassis that the area’s back streets are riddled on bad whiskey. After midnight go to bohemian pursuits, Club 43 is a and banana pancakes to trekkers and with contemporary art galleries. On the Venom, a club situated on the top of a restaurant/bar in Beirut’s hippest 97 Damascus dharma seekers, but the unnamed south east corner of the Omotesando/ tower block in the centre of town. On nightspot, Gemmayze — a non-profit, bhatta (pub) on the western side of Aoyama Dori intersection, look up weekends it stays open till dawn, and Diana Darke, author anti-sectarian NGO run entirely by Patan’s medieval Durbar Square is at the second floor window of the you can see the whole of the city from Where else could you find a Roman volunteers and set in what looks like seriously authentic. The service is building opposite for the words its windows. arch on a street mentioned by name someone’s slightly run-down home. terrible and the tiny wooden benches “Gallery 360º”, a small white cube • Kewpies, 2 Elgin Lane (0091 33 2475 in the Bible, now lined with Sunni and • Manara Palace Cafe, Cornic uncomfortable, but it’s not often where you’ll find exhibitions by Yoko 9880); Olypub, 21 Park St (+33 222 Shi’a mosques, Greek Catholic and 375 3887); Club 43 (Gouraud Street, you can eat, drink and people-watch Ono among others. Nearby, in the Greek Orthodox churches, bakeries, +370 8811). smack bang among the stunning 16th block behind the Prada flagship store, grocers, pharmacies and antique Stay at L’Hotel Libanais (+351 3766, century temples. The popular spot is Rat Hole Gallery, which specialises in 98 shops? In Damascus remnants of hotelibanais.com) doubles from £41pn. lies down a smoke-blackened entry world-class photography. civilisations blend and contrast. During sandwiched between two shops selling • Rat Hole Gallery, B1 5-5-3, Minami Ramadan go to the iftaar (the evening 100 Marrakech brass statues, just behind the Krishna Aoyama, Minato-ku (0081 3 6419 meal that breaks the daily fast) in the Mandir temple in Patan’s Durbar 3581, ratholegallery.com); Gallery magnificent courtyard of Bait Jabri, Dawn Boys-Stone, riad owner Square (pictured) and has uniquely 360º, 5-1-27-2F, Minami Aoyama, a restaurant in the old city — it is a Apart from the legendary souks, I love close-up views of a jewel of a Unesco Minato-ku (+3 3406 5823, 360.co.jp); wonderfully civilised occasion where a the local Bab Kechich market. At first world heritage site. The chang (rice Art Space Tokyo (artspacetokyo.com). massive spread costs only £6. glance it seems little more than a grot beer) is always fresh and tasty, and the Stay at Mitsui Garden Ginza • Bait Jabri, Al-Sawaf Street (00963 11 Moroccan car boot sale (yes, second spicy snacks are delicious. (+81 335 431 131, gardenhotels. 541 6254, jabrihouse.com). hand shoes, brok Stay at The Dwarikas Hotel (00977 co.jp) doubles from £136pn. Stay at The Beit Al Mamlouka (+963 car parts should you wish) but you can 1447 3725, dwarikas.com) doubles from 11 543 0445, almamlouka.com) has also procure fabulous gems that you £114pn. doubles from £106pn. would pay a great deal more for in the 95 Cartagena souks. The vendors are friendly and Simon Locke, very few tourists venture there. 93 Valparaiso 98 Cairo co-director, Columbia 57 Tours Stay at Dawn owns Riad Fawakay (+212 Matt Ridgway, writer of Chilean travel Carved from a colourful history of Esam Abd El Salam, 73187346, riad fawakay.com) which c blog corrugatedcity.com piracy and colonialism, with fusions guide, Intrepid Travel be rented from £200pn based on four As a city built into the hills (which of African, indigenous and European A visit to Coptic Cairo shows a people sharing two rooms. affords views of both the Andes and the culture, Cartagena is Colombia’s living, completely different aspect of the city Pacific) “Valpo” showcases the crazy breathing, pulsating museum. At night to the Pyramids and the Sphinx. Here, Compiled by Gemma Bowes, Lauren feats of late 19th-century architectural heels click instinctively to the throb there are holy buildings for Judaism, Cochrane, Laura Goodman, Benji engineering. But recently it has seen an of salsa at Café Havana. A number Christianity and Islam only few steps Lanyado, Paul McCann, Mat Osman explosion of murals, street art, cafes, of magnificent boutique hotels have away from each other. Visit the Hanging and Annabelle Thorpe bars and restaurants. Each peak has sprung up in the colonial mansions in its features; from poet Pablo Neruda’s the old town, such as La Casa Pestagua house on Cerro Bellavista, through the and La Passion. three cemeteries on Cerro Panteón to • Café Havana, Calle Media Luna (0057 the great bars and restaurants of Cerro 315 690 2566, cafehavanacartagena. Alegre and Cerro Concepción. In the com); La Casa Pestagua (+315 664 95 10, latter, Allegretto is a great spot for local casapestagua.net); Columbia 57 Tours draught beer. (0800 0789 157, colombia57.com). • Allegretto, Pilcomayo 529 (0056 32 Stay at La Passion (+57 5664 8605, 296 8839, allegretto.cl). lapassionhotel.com) doubles Stay at The Hotel Gervasoni (+3222 from £77pn. 39236, hotelgervasoni.com/eng) doubles from £100pn. 96 Calcutta Patrick Pringle, journalist and former 94 Tokyo reporter for the Calcutta Telegraph Ashley Rawlings, editor, Art Space Tokyo Mumbai has all the Bollywood One of the greatest aspects of living glamour, Delhi is India’s political in Tokyo is the endless discovery of Disneyland, but in many ways Calcutta artistic nooks and crannies. Galleries is its soul. A night out in “Cal” starts and museums are spread out all over at Kewpies, owned by a lady who runs the city and hidden in the unlikeliest the finest kitchen in West Bengal. * On the Travel website Bloggers’ guides to 10 top cities