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DENIM - SPRING SUMMER ‘13




                 MARCH 2012
      DENIM DESIGN DIVISION - MATTHEW BRAUN
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                                                                   MARCH 2012




     Pastels
                                           Turn up




                                                                                      Coating/Staining

 Raw/Rinse

                                                       Vibrant colours
 Contrast stitch




                            Indigo dying                                 Ecru/White                  Dead stock




                                                        Herringbone




                                           SPRING SUMMER 2013
                                                     OVERVIEW
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                               MARCH 2012




                            KEY TRENDS FOR DENIM
                             WHAT TO LOOK FOR !
                                 WHITE/ECRU DENIM

                              SATURATED INDIGO DENIMS

                                   NEW COATINGS

                                 DEAD STOCK BLUES

                                     TURN UPS

                              CONTRAST COLOUR THREADS

                                  PASTEL COLOURS

                                 THE ORGANIC LOOK

                                   DENIM BLENDS

                                   THE NEW JEAN?
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                            IT’S ALL WHITE                                                                             MARCH 2012




                                                                                                                                                 Ecru selvedge




                                                                                                              Cone Denim Mills




    Worn white



                                                                                                                                                  Indigo staining

                                                                         Oatmeal weft



                                           Heavy bleach



                                                                                                         White non-denim



             White/Ecru denim comes to the high street in force for Spring Summer 13. Create the look through heavy bleaching or using natural undyed fibres.
                                                             Plays on oatmeal wefts create great vintage looks
                                                                                                                                                                        4
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                       EXTREME DIPPING                                                                              MARCH 2012




                                                                                                                                                      Raw coated




                                                                   Minimal scraping



    Japan blues                                                                                                   Authentic




                                                                     Authentic whiskers




                                                                                                           OD Denim




                        Saturated Indigo denims will carry through from Autumn into summer, being a key look across high end and high street.
                     Heavy washes are replaced by slight scraping and tamed whiskers. OD Denim is used to also create this high intensity of depth.
                                                                                                                                                                     5
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                           THE SUMMER COAT                                                                                     MARCH 2012




        Dry coatings
                                                                                Crinkle




                                                                               Colour coatings




                                                                                                                 Clean washing
       New ideas




          This summer coatings take a leap forward with experimental brands like NAKED & FAMOUS and ONE GREEN ELEPHANT. New colour coatings/sprays
 are what to look for, giving a vintage look to coloured denims. Clear Resins on saturated indigos giving a more rigid raw look are proving to be important in the offering too.
                 LEVIS take this to the next level with their commuter jean, coated with a waterproof finish protecting you and your denims from the elements.
                                                                                                                                                                                   6
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                       DEAD STOCK BLUES                                                                               MARCH 2012




                                                                                                                                            Crinkle coated
                                                                               New fit




                                   Orange copper metal

        Raw casts




                                                                                                                 Grey blues
        New blues


                                              Heritage




           A trend which is becoming more and more evident as the need for anything heritage becomes increasingly popular is Dead stock blue casts of denim.
                                     Fabrics are more greyed off, weights are heavy (13oz) and finishes are clean with raws and rinses.
                     Fabrics look great unmercerized for a textured look and fits are worn loose with ankle swinging turn ups. Return of the rockabilly.
                                                                                                                                                                       7
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                      ‘ROLL UP’ - ‘ROLL UP’                                                                              MARCH 2012




                                                                      New interior fabrics

                                    Chambray interior




      Heavy weight

                                                                                                                                              Blanket lining




                                                                                                                                                   Twisted yarns



                                                                                                           OD colouring




         With washes becoming cleaner and coloured denims becoming increasingly popular. Interests on internals and coloured wefts are seen on the high street.
                   TED BAKER uses lightweight chambray and checks to internal hems, SCOTCH & SODA are using heavyweight vintage pinstripe twill
               and premium brands like NAKED & FAMOUS use blanket lining to denims. Selvedges are becoming more evident with high street stores like
                                                MARKS & SPENCER delving into this premium fabric construction.                                                            8
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                               NICE THREADS                                                                               MARCH 2012




                                                                          New colour ideas


                                                                                                            Colour trims match



  OD colour bleed




                                         Hand done look



                                     Sophisticated colour




                                                                             Colour stories




                    Right, contrast thread colours are a sensitive point on denim as it can be sink or swim for a pair of denims if the wrong colours are used.
Contrast threads have been used badly in the past but this season key brands have used them in very effective ways. LEE has told a story with their four colours spread across
     all branding (leathers/threads/metalwork). NUDIE has changed their back pocket stitch colour to a striking green apple for their organic denim collaboration between
                                                                             New York store ATRIUM.                                                                           9
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                           SWEET TOOTH                                                                            MARCH 2012




     Colour statement




                                          Faded warms
                                                                                                              New greens




                                                                              Clean finish




   Colour denims seem to be getting stronger and stronger on the high street with BURTONS, TOPMAN & TED BAKER storming in front with new and striking colourways.
                              However SS’13 sees the colours sway from earthy tones in the Autumn to faded blues and reds in the summer.
                                       Team these striking colours with a simple plain top and the essential summer look is complete.
                                                                                                                                                                    10
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                       THE ORGANIC LOOK                                                                               MARCH 2012




                                                                                                             Colour nepps




            Wrangler




                                                                     Cone Denim Mills




          Twisted yarns




                                            Dobby fabric


                                                                                                            Colour with nepps

          A big trend currently creeping through is the organic look, with the introduction of eco friendly product and waterless denims, organic seems so right,
                                this look has been achieved through neppy denims, coloured wefts, twisted yarns and dobby constructions.
       CONE DENIM MILLS successfully previewed their collection at DENIM PV for S/S ‘13 showing their earthspun collection using recycled glass and plastic bags.
                                                                                                                                                                       11
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                              DENIM BLEND                                                                                   MARCH 2012




                                    New denim blends
                                                                                                                     Lightweights




                                                                              Textural looks




     Heavy Chambray                                                                                                                                 Hemp blend




                                           Subtle washing




           Although normally tricky for our current consumer who relates Weight with quality, lightweight denim blends are being seen across most of the brands.
                                     PAUL SMITH producing a 10oz denim linen blend jean, with the same treatment as a regular denim.
                               This trend will also play heavily on the organic look but just as a lighter weight option for our summer season.
              These fabrications will also translate across chinos and shorts easily. Salt and peeper looks along with subtle nepps are great fabrics to look for.           12
PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC                                               THE NEW JEAN                                                                                   MARCH 2012




  New colourways
                                                                              Tobacco stitch




                                            Heavy canvas

                                                                                                                                                       Denim canvas




 Heavy calvary twill
                                                                                                                    Coloured yarns




                                                                                                                                                         Herringbone



    With the current success of Chinos, denims have been hit hard, this is soon to change and with the use of new fabrications on jean blocks this will help as a transition.
                                 Canvases seem to be very popular with RIVER ISLAND, TOPMAN & RALPH LAUREN showcasing these in their
                  current ranges. Team this with the beautiful available herringbones, seen in ARVIND, ISKO & KOHINOOR mills for a happy middle ground.
            Finally the use of tobacco stitching and denim wash processes on striking bold colourways as seen above will really push the category into a new level.             13

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Denim trend ss13

  • 1. DENIM - SPRING SUMMER ‘13 MARCH 2012 DENIM DESIGN DIVISION - MATTHEW BRAUN
  • 2. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC MARCH 2012 Pastels Turn up Coating/Staining Raw/Rinse Vibrant colours Contrast stitch Indigo dying Ecru/White Dead stock Herringbone SPRING SUMMER 2013 OVERVIEW
  • 3. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC MARCH 2012 KEY TRENDS FOR DENIM WHAT TO LOOK FOR ! WHITE/ECRU DENIM SATURATED INDIGO DENIMS NEW COATINGS DEAD STOCK BLUES TURN UPS CONTRAST COLOUR THREADS PASTEL COLOURS THE ORGANIC LOOK DENIM BLENDS THE NEW JEAN?
  • 4. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC IT’S ALL WHITE MARCH 2012 Ecru selvedge Cone Denim Mills Worn white Indigo staining Oatmeal weft Heavy bleach White non-denim White/Ecru denim comes to the high street in force for Spring Summer 13. Create the look through heavy bleaching or using natural undyed fibres. Plays on oatmeal wefts create great vintage looks 4
  • 5. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC EXTREME DIPPING MARCH 2012 Raw coated Minimal scraping Japan blues Authentic Authentic whiskers OD Denim Saturated Indigo denims will carry through from Autumn into summer, being a key look across high end and high street. Heavy washes are replaced by slight scraping and tamed whiskers. OD Denim is used to also create this high intensity of depth. 5
  • 6. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC THE SUMMER COAT MARCH 2012 Dry coatings Crinkle Colour coatings Clean washing New ideas This summer coatings take a leap forward with experimental brands like NAKED & FAMOUS and ONE GREEN ELEPHANT. New colour coatings/sprays are what to look for, giving a vintage look to coloured denims. Clear Resins on saturated indigos giving a more rigid raw look are proving to be important in the offering too. LEVIS take this to the next level with their commuter jean, coated with a waterproof finish protecting you and your denims from the elements. 6
  • 7. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC DEAD STOCK BLUES MARCH 2012 Crinkle coated New fit Orange copper metal Raw casts Grey blues New blues Heritage A trend which is becoming more and more evident as the need for anything heritage becomes increasingly popular is Dead stock blue casts of denim. Fabrics are more greyed off, weights are heavy (13oz) and finishes are clean with raws and rinses. Fabrics look great unmercerized for a textured look and fits are worn loose with ankle swinging turn ups. Return of the rockabilly. 7
  • 8. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC ‘ROLL UP’ - ‘ROLL UP’ MARCH 2012 New interior fabrics Chambray interior Heavy weight Blanket lining Twisted yarns OD colouring With washes becoming cleaner and coloured denims becoming increasingly popular. Interests on internals and coloured wefts are seen on the high street. TED BAKER uses lightweight chambray and checks to internal hems, SCOTCH & SODA are using heavyweight vintage pinstripe twill and premium brands like NAKED & FAMOUS use blanket lining to denims. Selvedges are becoming more evident with high street stores like MARKS & SPENCER delving into this premium fabric construction. 8
  • 9. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC NICE THREADS MARCH 2012 New colour ideas Colour trims match OD colour bleed Hand done look Sophisticated colour Colour stories Right, contrast thread colours are a sensitive point on denim as it can be sink or swim for a pair of denims if the wrong colours are used. Contrast threads have been used badly in the past but this season key brands have used them in very effective ways. LEE has told a story with their four colours spread across all branding (leathers/threads/metalwork). NUDIE has changed their back pocket stitch colour to a striking green apple for their organic denim collaboration between New York store ATRIUM. 9
  • 10. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC SWEET TOOTH MARCH 2012 Colour statement Faded warms New greens Clean finish Colour denims seem to be getting stronger and stronger on the high street with BURTONS, TOPMAN & TED BAKER storming in front with new and striking colourways. However SS’13 sees the colours sway from earthy tones in the Autumn to faded blues and reds in the summer. Team these striking colours with a simple plain top and the essential summer look is complete. 10
  • 11. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC THE ORGANIC LOOK MARCH 2012 Colour nepps Wrangler Cone Denim Mills Twisted yarns Dobby fabric Colour with nepps A big trend currently creeping through is the organic look, with the introduction of eco friendly product and waterless denims, organic seems so right, this look has been achieved through neppy denims, coloured wefts, twisted yarns and dobby constructions. CONE DENIM MILLS successfully previewed their collection at DENIM PV for S/S ‘13 showing their earthspun collection using recycled glass and plastic bags. 11
  • 12. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC DENIM BLEND MARCH 2012 New denim blends Lightweights Textural looks Heavy Chambray Hemp blend Subtle washing Although normally tricky for our current consumer who relates Weight with quality, lightweight denim blends are being seen across most of the brands. PAUL SMITH producing a 10oz denim linen blend jean, with the same treatment as a regular denim. This trend will also play heavily on the organic look but just as a lighter weight option for our summer season. These fabrications will also translate across chinos and shorts easily. Salt and peeper looks along with subtle nepps are great fabrics to look for. 12
  • 13. PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC THE NEW JEAN MARCH 2012 New colourways Tobacco stitch Heavy canvas Denim canvas Heavy calvary twill Coloured yarns Herringbone With the current success of Chinos, denims have been hit hard, this is soon to change and with the use of new fabrications on jean blocks this will help as a transition. Canvases seem to be very popular with RIVER ISLAND, TOPMAN & RALPH LAUREN showcasing these in their current ranges. Team this with the beautiful available herringbones, seen in ARVIND, ISKO & KOHINOOR mills for a happy middle ground. Finally the use of tobacco stitching and denim wash processes on striking bold colourways as seen above will really push the category into a new level. 13