This document outlines one person's expedition up Denali, the highest mountain in North America. It provides details of their climbing history and training leading up to the 2008 expedition. The expedition took place from June 26th to July 10th, following a route up the West Buttress. Each day of the multi-day climb is documented, tracking their progress establishing camps and cache points as they ascended the mountain. They successfully reached the summit on July 7th before descending back to base camp over the next few days. The document emphasizes the extensive planning, training and perseverance required to attempt such a significant climb.

1. DENALI (The High One) – 20,320 ft.
IMG Expedition
West Buttress Route
June 26 – July 10, 2008

2. Climbs
1994
1995
1996
1999
2001
2001
2002
2004
2005
2005
2007
2008
-
Mt Shasta, CA, 14,179 ft. + 9
Mt Rainier, WA, 14,410 ft.
Mt Whitney, CA, 14,505 ft. + 9
Kilimanjaro, Africa, 19,340 ft.
Kala Patthar, Nepal, 18,192 ft.
Everest BC, Nepal, ~18,000 ft.
Elbrus, Russia, 18510 ft.
Orizaba, Mexico, 18697 ft.
Illiniza Norte, Ecuador, 16,785 ft.
Cotapaxi, Ecuador, 19,347 ft.
Guagua Pichincha, Ecuador, 15,696 ft.
Denali ?????

3. Negative Beliefs/Excuses
 I’m too old
 I’m not fit enough
 Everybody will be better than me
 It’s too hard
 It’s too scary
 It will be too cold
 I’ll fall in a crevasse

4. “He that is good for making excuses is
seldom good for anything else.” Benjamin
Franklin.

5. You have to do
Denali!!

6. Personal Trainer


March 07
Fitness will not be excuse

7. “He is able who thinks he is able.”
Buddha

8. 

Reached Plateau
Denali Expedition –
April 08
Mt Rainier

9. Team Geiger
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Doctor
Chiropractor
Message therapist
Trainer
Climbing partner
Life coach
Physiologist/Nutritionist, March 08
Guides
Family, friends

10. Training Regimen
3 months out

11. Training Regimen
2 Months Out

12. Training Regimen
1 Month Out

13. Diet
8:00a
Peanut butter, Water
10:00a to noon
Blueberries, Black cherries, Mixed fruit,
Oatmeal, Walnuts, Sesame seeds,
Protein powder
2:30p to 3:30
Peas, Corn, Green beans, Stir-fry
veggies, Pasta seasoning, Mrs.
Dash
7:30 p
seasoning, Newman’s Own Olive Oil
and Vinegar, Tuna fish
Pop corn, nuts, other snacks

14. Passed test on Rainier

15. The Climb
June 26 – July 10, 2008

16. Anchorage

19. The Team

21. Talkeetna

25. FOOTWEAR
► SOCKS: 3 PAIRS
► DOUBLE PLASTIC BOOTS
► GAITERS
► OVERBOOTS
► INSULATED CAMP BOOTIES

26. UPPER-BODY CLOTHING
► LIGHT WEIGHT TOP
► MEDIUM WEIGHT TOP
► FLEECE JACKET
► SOFTSHELL JACKET (Replaced 25 yr old stuff)
► GORTEX JACKET
► DOWN VEST
► INSULATED HOODED PARKA

27. LOWER-BODY CLOTHING
► UNDERWEAR: 2-3
► LIGHT WEIGHT LONG UNDERWEAR
► MEDIUM WEIGHT LONG UNDERWEAR
► SOFTSHELL PANTS
► GORTEX PANTS
► INSULATED OVERPANTS

28. HEAD
► BASEBALL CAP OR SUN HAT
► WOOL OR FLEECE (SKI) HAT
► BUFF/NECK GAITER
► BALACLAVA

29. HANDS
► FLEECE GLOVES
► INSULATED LEATHER GLOVES
► INSULATED SKI GLOVES
► INSULATED OVERMITTS

30. SLEEPING
► SLEEPING BAG: Rated to -20° F
► COMPRESSION SACK
► FULL LENGTH THERMAREST PAD
► FULL LENGTH CLOSED-CELL FOAM
SLEEPING PAD
► STUFF SACK

31. BACKPACK / STORAGE
► INTERNAL FRAME PACK:
6,000 cu. in.
► SMALL, MEDIUM AND LARGE STUFF
SACKS
► GARBAGE BAGS: lining sleeping bag stuff
sack, clothing stuff sack, and cache bag.
► SLED DUFFEL
► STRAPS

32. TRAVEL
► SNOWSHOES
► SKI POLES

33. SUN
► BANDANA
► GLACIER GLASSES
► SUNGLASSES CASE
► NOSE GUARD
► GOGGLES
► LIP BALM
► SUNSCREEN
► ANTI FOG CREAM

34. TOILETRIES
► TOILET PAPER: 2 rolls
► HAND DISINFECTANT
► HANDI WIPES
► TOOTH PASTE
► TOOTHBRUSH

35. CLIMBING
► HELMET
► CRAMPONS
► CRAMPON CASE
► ICE AXE w/ LEASH
► SEAT HARNESS
► ASCENDER w/ SLING
► REGULAR CARABINERS:
6
► LOCKING D CARABINERS: 2
► CHEST HARNESS
► SLED HAUL: 6’ of 1” tubular webbing.
► PERLON CORD: 6 mm for prussics, pack leash

36. EATING & DRINKING
► CUP:
Insulated mug with top. 12-20 oz.
► BOWL:
► SPOON: 2
► WATER BOTTLE: 2. Wide mouth one quart
size.
► WATER BOTTLE INSULATORS: 2.
► TRAIL FOOD: 10-15#

37. MISCELLANEOUS
► POCKET KNIFE
► WATCH/CLOCK
► LIGHTER
► DUCT TAPE
► EAR PLUGS
► EYE SHADES

38. MEDICAL
►
►
►
►
►
►
►
►
►
►
►
IBUPROFEN/MOTRIN or ADVIL: 20 tablets
ACETAMINOPHEN/TYLENOL: 20 tablets
ANTIBIOTIC: Respiratory
ANTIBIOTIC: Gastro-intestinal
ACETAZOLMIDE/DIAMOX: 20, 250 mg. Tablets
PEPTO-BISMOL: 6 tablets
COUGH LOZENGES: 10 lozenges
ATHLETIC TAPE: 1 Small roll, half inch.
BANDAIDS: 12
MOLESKIN
FOOT POWDER

39. OPTIONAL ITEMS
► POWER GELS OR GU: 8.
► SIDE POCKETS
► CAMERA AND FILM
► VAPOR BARRIER LINER SOCKS
► PEE BOTTLE
► INSTANT COFFEE
► THERMOS
► CELL OR SATELLITE PHONE
► BOOK
► DIARY/PENCIL/GLASSES
► RESCUE INSURANCE CARD

44. 

First summit – Hudson Stuck party 1913
First West Buttress route summit –
Dr. Washburn’s expedition 1951

46. Day 1
June 26
Fly to Kahiltna Glacier

61. Base Camp

62. Day 2 June 27
Base camp to 7,800 ft.

66. x Day 2 - 7,800 ft
Base Camp

67. Day 3 June 28
Carry day to 10,200 ft. cache

68. Greg,
slow
down!

71. Day 3 – 10,200 ft cache
x
x Day 2 - 7,800 ft camp
Base Camp

72. Day 4 June 29
Move day from 7,800 ft to 11,200 ft. camp

74. x Day 4 11,200 ft camp

75. Day 5 June 30
Back carry 10,200 ft. cache

82. x Day 5 11,200 ft camp
x 10,200 ft cache

83. Day 6 July 1
Carry day to 13,200 ft. cache

91. x Day 6 13,200 cache
x Day 5 11,200 ft camp
x 10,200 ft cache

92. Day 7 July 2
Move day from 11,200 ft. to 14,200 camp

93. We’ve
been
here
before!

98. “If you knew you could do this you wouldn’t
have to be here.” Greg Vernovage, Guide

99. “You’re never beaten until you admit it.”
General Patton

105. x Day 7 -14,200 ft camp
x Day 6 -13,200 ft cache
x Day 5 -11,200 ft camp
x 10,200 ft cache

106. Day 8 July 3
Training day, change underwear

110. stayed
x Day 8 -14,200 ft camp
x Day 6 -13,200 cache
x Day 5 -11,200 ft camp
x 10,200 cache

111. Day 9 July 4
Carry day to 16,200 ft. cache

114. x Day 9 -16,200 ft cache
x Day 8 -14,200 ft camp
x Day 6 -13,200 ft cache
x Day 5 -11,200 ft camp
x 10,200 ft cache

115. Day 10 July 5
Rest Day

117. x Day 9 -16,200 ft cache
stayed
x Day 8 to 10 -14,200 ft camp
x Day 6 -13,200 ft cache
x Day 5 -11,200 ft camp
x 10,200 ft cache

118. Day 11 July 6
Move day from 14,200 ft. to 17,200 camp

131. x Day 9 -16,200 ft cache
x Day 8 to 10 -14,200 ft camp
x Day 6 -13,200 ft cache
x Day 5 -11,200 ft camp
x 10,200 ft cache

132. 20,320’
Day 11 –High camp x

133. Day 12 July 7
Summit Day
?

148. Deaths

150. Day 13 July 8
Downclimb to 11,000 ft.

152. Day 14 July 9
Downclimb to Basecamp at 7,200 ft.

153. Heartbreak Hill

163. “The mountains are the means. The man is
the end. The idea is to improve the man,
not reach the top of the mountain.”
Walter Bonatti

164. “ Judge your success by what you had to
give up in order to get it.”
Dalai Lama

165. The End