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What Are You
         Wearing?
An exploration into the use of harmful chemicals
     and practices in the fashion industry
introduction
 People are thinking more and more about
  what goes into their food but there is still little
  publicity regarding potentially dangerous
  chemicals used in the production of
  clothing

 Mostly because of Greenpeace’s “Fashion
  Detox” campaign, this is beginning to
  change
   Was one of the first widely publicized
     scientific studies on the subject
NPEs—What are they?

 nonylphenol ethoxylates (aka NPEs) are a
   common type of synthetic cleaning agent

 Are often used in the production of textiles
   and in the clothing industry

 Can also be found in many detergents

 Roughly 270 million pounds of NPEs are used
   in the U.S. each year
NPEs—Why are They Harmful?

   Because they function as a cleaning agent,
    almost all NPEs end up being rinsed down
    the drain and into rivers and lakes
     Not just in the Global South, but locally as
       well

   A U.S. Geological Survey study found
    metabolites of NPEs present in over 61 per
    cent of tested U. S. streams.
 When NPEs end up in water systems they
  become incredibly dangerous
 They mimic the hormone estrogen and act
  as endocrine disruptors
   Especially if they break down into NPs

 NPs have been involved in the widespread
  "feminization" of male fish and in the
  disruption of hormone processes in some
  mammals
   Once ingested, the body cannot tell the
      difference
     resulting in cellular confusion in reproduction
      and development
 No conclusive studies have confirmed the
   negative affects of NPEs on humans
      However, many scholars have listed NPEs as at
       least a partial cause of modern hormonal health
       issues

 The use of NPEs is completely restricted in Europe

 Residue from NPE used in the textile production
   process remains in garments long after they
   leave the factory or even after several washes
      And other contaminated organisms can easily
       end up in our food

 The constant NPE contact with our skin could
   have dangerous affects
 Constant contact with harmful chemicals is
   changing our bodies
Azo Dyes
 Azo Dyes are another substance often used
   in textile production because of their ability
   to create a wide spectrum of hues with
   outstanding colorfastness

 The use of these dyes is potentially
   dangerous because they can easily break
   down into cancer-causing amines
Other Harmful Substances
 During the journey from plant to product,
   cotton undergoes a series of processes
    bleaching, sizing, dying, straightening, shrink
      reduction, stain and odor resistance,
      fireproofing, mothproofing, and static- and
      wrinkle-reduction

 Chemicals often used for finishing garments
   include formaldehyde, caustic soda, sulfuric
   acid, bromines, urea resins, sulfonamides,
   halogens, and bromines, and long-lasting
   disinfectants.
   Residues from using these chemicals can cause
    moderate to severe reactions in people with Multiple
    Chemical Sensitivities
       These can manifest as rashes, itching, dermatitis,
        swelling, and restriction of breath

   People are developing allergies to formaldehyde in
    particular
       Which is also shown to be a powerful human
        carcinogen

   PPD is another substance used in black dyes and the
    treatment of leather which causes particularly severe
    reactions

   As of now, there is no universal requirement to disclose
    the chemical content of clothes manufactured
       Often extremely hard to trace where garments are
        made and which dangerous compounds are likely
        present
Greenpeace Study
 As part of their “Fashion Detox” campaign, this
   study was conducted in April 2012
 Tested 141 clothing items from 20 major brands
   looking for evidence of phthalates, NPEs, and
   azo dyes
      (all harmful and potentially carcinogenic)

 Brands tested included Calvin Klein, Adidas,
   Converse, Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch,
   Bauer Hockey, Cortefiel, Uniqlo, Gap, H&M,
   Lacoste, Zara, Mango, Nike, Phillips-Van Heusen
   Corporation (PVH Corp), Levi’s, and Puma
 Tested garments from 27 countries
Results
 NPEs were the most commonly detected
  substances, identified in 89 of the 141
  articles (63% of the total).
 NPE concentrations ranged from just above
  1 mg/kg up to 45 000 mg/kg.
   12 samples (9% of articles tested) showed
     concentrations over 1 000 mg/kg

 NPEs were detected in one or more
  products from all of the tested brands, in at
  least one product from 13 of the 18
  identifiable countries of manufacture, and in
  products sold in 25 out of the 27 countries
Results (cont.)
 In addition to the widespread presence of
  NPEs, carcinogenic amines (from azo dyes)
  were found in two of the tested garments

 The garment with the highest NPE content
  was a screen printed t-shirt manufactured
  and sold in Mexico
“Fast Fashion”
Accountability

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Core 3 Final Presentation (Rough Draft)

  • 1. What Are You Wearing? An exploration into the use of harmful chemicals and practices in the fashion industry
  • 2. introduction  People are thinking more and more about what goes into their food but there is still little publicity regarding potentially dangerous chemicals used in the production of clothing  Mostly because of Greenpeace’s “Fashion Detox” campaign, this is beginning to change  Was one of the first widely publicized scientific studies on the subject
  • 3. NPEs—What are they?  nonylphenol ethoxylates (aka NPEs) are a common type of synthetic cleaning agent  Are often used in the production of textiles and in the clothing industry  Can also be found in many detergents  Roughly 270 million pounds of NPEs are used in the U.S. each year
  • 4. NPEs—Why are They Harmful?  Because they function as a cleaning agent, almost all NPEs end up being rinsed down the drain and into rivers and lakes  Not just in the Global South, but locally as well  A U.S. Geological Survey study found metabolites of NPEs present in over 61 per cent of tested U. S. streams.
  • 5.
  • 6.  When NPEs end up in water systems they become incredibly dangerous  They mimic the hormone estrogen and act as endocrine disruptors  Especially if they break down into NPs  NPs have been involved in the widespread "feminization" of male fish and in the disruption of hormone processes in some mammals  Once ingested, the body cannot tell the difference  resulting in cellular confusion in reproduction and development
  • 7.  No conclusive studies have confirmed the negative affects of NPEs on humans  However, many scholars have listed NPEs as at least a partial cause of modern hormonal health issues  The use of NPEs is completely restricted in Europe  Residue from NPE used in the textile production process remains in garments long after they leave the factory or even after several washes  And other contaminated organisms can easily end up in our food  The constant NPE contact with our skin could have dangerous affects  Constant contact with harmful chemicals is changing our bodies
  • 8. Azo Dyes  Azo Dyes are another substance often used in textile production because of their ability to create a wide spectrum of hues with outstanding colorfastness  The use of these dyes is potentially dangerous because they can easily break down into cancer-causing amines
  • 9. Other Harmful Substances  During the journey from plant to product, cotton undergoes a series of processes  bleaching, sizing, dying, straightening, shrink reduction, stain and odor resistance, fireproofing, mothproofing, and static- and wrinkle-reduction  Chemicals often used for finishing garments include formaldehyde, caustic soda, sulfuric acid, bromines, urea resins, sulfonamides, halogens, and bromines, and long-lasting disinfectants.
  • 10. Residues from using these chemicals can cause moderate to severe reactions in people with Multiple Chemical Sensitivities  These can manifest as rashes, itching, dermatitis, swelling, and restriction of breath  People are developing allergies to formaldehyde in particular  Which is also shown to be a powerful human carcinogen  PPD is another substance used in black dyes and the treatment of leather which causes particularly severe reactions  As of now, there is no universal requirement to disclose the chemical content of clothes manufactured  Often extremely hard to trace where garments are made and which dangerous compounds are likely present
  • 11. Greenpeace Study  As part of their “Fashion Detox” campaign, this study was conducted in April 2012  Tested 141 clothing items from 20 major brands looking for evidence of phthalates, NPEs, and azo dyes  (all harmful and potentially carcinogenic)  Brands tested included Calvin Klein, Adidas, Converse, Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, Bauer Hockey, Cortefiel, Uniqlo, Gap, H&M, Lacoste, Zara, Mango, Nike, Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation (PVH Corp), Levi’s, and Puma  Tested garments from 27 countries
  • 12. Results  NPEs were the most commonly detected substances, identified in 89 of the 141 articles (63% of the total).  NPE concentrations ranged from just above 1 mg/kg up to 45 000 mg/kg.  12 samples (9% of articles tested) showed concentrations over 1 000 mg/kg  NPEs were detected in one or more products from all of the tested brands, in at least one product from 13 of the 18 identifiable countries of manufacture, and in products sold in 25 out of the 27 countries
  • 13. Results (cont.)  In addition to the widespread presence of NPEs, carcinogenic amines (from azo dyes) were found in two of the tested garments  The garment with the highest NPE content was a screen printed t-shirt manufactured and sold in Mexico
  • 14.
  • 15.

Editor's Notes

  1. Clearly a global issue!