This document provides a detailed summary of a trip to China and Lhasa, Tibet from June 6-25, 2013. It describes travel from London to Shanghai, then sightseeing in Shanghai including museums, temples, and gardens. The group then traveled to Guilin for more sightseeing before taking a cruise to Chongqing. Further destinations included a cruise ship on the Yangtze River, Xian for the Terracotta Army, and Beijing. The trip concluded with 16 members traveling by train from Beijing to Lhasa in Tibet.

1. China with Lhasa. By Jayant Doshi
(from 6th June till 25th June 2013.)
(It took almost a year to plan and decide on an itinerary for a trip to China & Lhasa. Rama, my wife, with her
experience and expertise negotiated the best possible itinerary. But it was not to be for her. While on the way
to the airport we got an urgent call that there had been an accident at home from next door where demolition
was taking place. We had minutes to take a decision. As I was the main organiser it was decided that we
could not let down twenty two other participants.
On the spur of the moment it was decided that I
will continue with the trip and Rama will go back in
the same taxi. )
We left Heathrow for our short flight to
Amsterdam, and from there to Shanghai
where we reached on time at 2.00 p.m. on the
afternoon of 7th June. It was raining and for
safety and security reasons the passengers
were not allowed to disembark. We spent two
and half hours in the plane in sweltering heat
before we got permission to disembark. In all
the years of my travel I experienced such
delay for such reasons for the first time. Rain
was not heavy though winds were strong and
we could not understand the reason for not
being allowed to come out. After landing and
clearing our bags, we met the tour manager and
the local guide. While our bags were loaded
onto the coach we walked to the nearby station
to take one of the fastest trains to the city –
going at 300 kilo metres per hour. We reached
the hotel by 7.00, checked into our rooms and
had our dinner. After dinner there were
introductions done and everyone retired to their
rooms at the end of a long and tiring day.
We had a young man for our tour
manager and a cook who had been brought

2. from India. We had a lavish meal on the first day and our group members felt it was too much and
asked the cook to simplify the meals. Our food
was mostly cooked in the hotel we stayed in.
For breakfast, besides what the hotel offered,
we had one hot item made by our cook. Lunch
was also made in the hotel and we would
come back from sightseeing to get our hot
delicious lunch.
We started at 8.30 on our first day with
a visit to a museum which gave us a glimpse
of greatness of China’s past. The museum
represented China’s ancient art with 120000
artefacts exhibited consisting of bronze,
ceramics, calligraphy, furniture, jades, ancient
coins, paintings, seals, sculptures and various
art pieces. To do justice to all these would need a few days. We walked around the huge museum
complex stopping at interesting artefacts and glancing at others.
Shanghai is the largest and one of the ancient cities in China. We passed through vehicle
free shopping area. We visited the Jade Buddha temple where a large statute of Buddha made
from jade is revered by its followers. While we witnessed scores of devotees doing the prayers, the
temple gave the impression of a commercial
enterprise rather than just a place of worship.
After lunch at our hotel we continued our
sightseeing by visiting Yu Yuan Garden first
conceived in 1559. A rich family had made the
garden for their daughters to enjoy nature.
Unlike European gardens which are
meticulously planned in a geometrical style,
Chinese gardens follow the terrain and make
the garden accordingly. The exquisitely
beautiful building of the original owners still
stood in the gardens. Later we spent some time
in the local market and observed the life of the
people. In the evening we went to see the
acrobatic show. The show, the settings, costumes and the whole setup was amazing. Everyone
thoroughly enjoyed the show.
On 9th June, second day of our
sightseeing started also at 8.30 and our first
visit was to a water village which was built in
the 10th century along a canal and river. Now it
has become a booming tourist attraction. The
village has some lovely houses. While one
would expect to see a reflexion of local life it
was apparent that the village was more for
tourists. Later we visited a silk factory where
we got a demonstration of how silk is made
from cocoons. Our group bought some quilts
and pillows made from raw silk. We visited flea
market where anything and everything, but one
has to be extremely brave and good at
bargaining. Later we visited the tall 265 metres

3. high TV tower and walked on glass platform
though the weather did not allow us to see
much. A huge circular elevated path for
pedestrians, first one in the world, has been
shown on the internet and we were able to see
the same from this tower. In the evening we had
booked a river cruise. Some of our members
were tired and felt like cancelling the trip, but
the trip was worth it with a good view of the
skyline on both sides of the river and Shanghai
lights at night. However it was raining and
misty during the boat ride.
We had a 5.00 a.m. early wake up as we
were flying to Guilin. After reaching the hotel in
Guilin everyone caught up with their sleep as we had a late lunch. Our first sight seeing was
Elephant Trunk Hill. There is a huge rock formation of an elephant shape by the confluence of the
Yang and Li rivers, and looks as if its trunk is dipping into the water. Later we visited River Flute
Caves with lights and waterfall at a height. This was followed by a four lake cruise when we
passed gold pagoda. There was music and
dancing along the lakes but we had no time to
stop. Near the hotel was building where water
was flowing from top to the bottom covering
the full fascia of the building. This was like a
fountain but with a new idea water came
down from top of the building and with the
lights the scene was spectacular. Amount of
water that was being wasted is beyond
imagination. After a long day members were
tired but the cruise was worth it and enjoyed
by all.
Morning was free time and we all opted
to take a ride on the ski lift in the mountains of
Guilin. The ski lifts carried us over the valleys and mountains with lush greenery and wonderful
views all around. There was tabbogoning in the valleys. Some of us decided to be adventurous
and enjoyed it. We walked around the hills and visited a tea factory demonstrating various types
of teas. After lunch we had a cruise on River Li. It took us three hours of driving to reach the river
cruise. Guilin has huge population (32 million
as per the guide) and the town was like a
concrete jungle with huge blocks of flats. But
during our 3 hour drive we could hardly see
any people even in the town. One of our
members very aptly commented “where are all
the 1.3 billion hiding!” The two hour cruise
along the river took us through the valley with
mountains on each side, and hills looking like
dumplings. The water show at night was
cancelled because of bad weather. It was
10.00 by the time we reached the hotel.
It was an early start on the next day
when we took the flight to Chongqing. We had
an early lunch followed by a visit to a museum

4. with impressive hand paintings. Later we visited the zoo with almost 2000 animals and in
particular the world famous Chinese pandas.
After dinner we boarded the cruise ship.
Compared to river cruise boats this was large
ship with lots of facilities. But unlike other
cruise ships every facility had a charge.
Swimming pool, which was not much larger
then a big bath tub had a charge and when we
wanted to play cards there was a charge also.
We spent time on the top deck viewing the
scenery, or playing cards as there was not
much else to do.
One day we went out to visit a Pagoda.
It was a steep walk but refreshing after
spending all the time on board. Overall the
three nights on the cruise ship were invigorating and restful after the hectic tour schedule so far
and more to follow. On board we had welcome program, acupuncture class and a Chinese class on
something that was similar to mudras and ayurveda. One day we saw intricate painting on glass
bottles. It was fascinating and wonderful. We also attended majong (board game popular in China)
lesson. We took a boat ride through canals of the river and passed many gorges. At dinner time
Rama’s birthday was celebrated in her
absence. It was nice of everyone to think of her
on her important birthday. After dinner there
was a program by the passengers and our
group took part and presented a dance. With
no time for preparation and lack of right music
the group did the best they could. After drinks
in my cabin we went to see the locks which
allowed the cruise ship to go to a lower level.
We were told that a lift system is being
constructed whereby the ships will be picked
up and dropped at whatever level they need to
go without the need to go through the time
consuming lock system.
On 15th June we left the cruise and had a panoramic view of the Yangtse River Dam which
is world recognised a remarkable engineering feat. After a lunch of Chinese vegetarian food we
had a long drive to the airport to fly to Xian. We reached Xian at 8.30 at night. Xian was
established more than 4000 years back and
was the capital of China till 14th century. Xian
was the largest city and became the capital of
China after it was united by what became the
first Emperor of China. Later the capital was
moved to Beijing.
We had a chef with us and most of our
lunches and dinners were cooked by him
though at times he had limitations and
restrictions that curtailed his work. He also
cooked one hot item at breakfast but by the
time his dish came on the table most of the
group already had what was on offer in the
hotel breakfast buffet. Being all vegetarians we

5. had the luxury of delicious food at all times though on the negative side we missed the opportunity
to taste local cuisine and savour the local
atmosphere. On a group holiday it is not easy
to please everyone. While some felt the tour
was too hectic, others wanted to make the
most of their time while here.
It was in 1974 that a farmer made the
first discovery of Terra Cotta soldier. The first
Emperor of China was buried with the whole
Terra Cotta army, numbering as much as
10000, to protect him in afterlife. These have
been the most important excavations of 20th
century. The farmer at first was paid a small
amount but later recognised for his work and
rewarded accordingly. Now he signs books
and makes a fair living. More excavations have shown existence of thousands of Terra Cotta
soldiers. We were taken to a factory and a demonstration
given of how these Terra Cotta statutes are made. The
Terra Cotta museums are housed in huge buildings. The
excavations are still in progress and the site has been
declared as World Heritage Site. As we had no guide inside
these buildings we just had a whirl wind walk around
three huge warehouse type buildings with excavations and
digging of Terra Cotta bodies still under progress. It is
estimated that restoration of these excavations, and more
excavations, will still take a few more decades. After lunch
rest of the group opted for rest, I took the opportunity to
walk around the shops and get a feel of the local life.
Later we visited the Xian city wall which is a huge
structure and still in good state. It has a width of 18 metres
at base tapering to 12 metres at the top. The guide was not
helpful at all and we just walked around the wall to see the
ancient enclosed city within the walls. Xian city wall is the
most ancient defensive wall that has survived in a good state to this day. In the evening we were
to visit a 1300 years old Pagoda but the guide did not mention this. Some of us, after long
unnecessary walk, did manage to go and see the Pagoda, rest of the group missed the opportunity.
Later we went to see the most fabulous Tang Dynasty Show with excellent colourful costumes and
wonderful acrobatics.
Next morning we flew to Beijing and
after lunch went to see the Summer Palace and
the lake which was built for the Queen Mother.
We had a pleasant walk in the gardens and
saw the palace from the outside. On our way
back, we had a photo stop for the Bird’s Nest -
the Olympic stadium. Later we visited the Fake
Market where, as the name indicates, one can
buy all sorts of items knowing they are fakes.
While most of the group members went bargain
hunting, I went for a wonderful foot massage.
Once at the hotel one of the group members
was taken to hospital because of some rash on

6. the body. After consulting the doctors it was decided that the member with rash should return to
London instead of coming with the group to
Lhasa.
We went to see China Wall, the longest
wall and one of the wonders of the world.
From the satellite this is the only man made
structure which can be seen and identified. We
walked on the wall for almost one and half
hours. We took a small roller coaster type of
ride to the valley where we saw black bears
caged in a well. From top of the wall one can
see the valleys and hills surrounding the area.
After a Chinese lunch for a change we went to
see Ming Tomb. It has a sandalwood palace
and no metal is used in construction of the
palace. The tombs were made for queens and other royal figures and the area has many smaller
tombs. It also had a huge statute of a former Emperor. Later in the evening we went to see a stage
show called “Golden Queen Dynasty” with its wonderful colourful costumes and dancing. But the
most amazing part was at the end when the story line was flooding and the whole stage was
actually flooded with water and water came right up to where the audience were sitting. Water
also spills out from side galleries. This was the
most amazing finale to the show.
From the actual 24 original members 6
were leaving us at the end of China trip and 18
were to go to Lhasa. But one dropped out from
London, and one was flying back due to health
reasons so only 16 members were left for Lhasa
trip. I had some problems sorting out room
sharing. Ultimately everything was sorted out.
We said our goodbyes to those who were flying
to London next day.
On 19th June morning Lhasa group flew
to Xinning to catch the train. The flight was
delayed and we were all tense because if we
missed our train than the only choice would be to cancel Tibet train journey – and our trip to Lhasa.
Once we were off the plane we all rushed to catch our train to Lhasa. We just made it. There was
no one to help out and our tickets were all
printed in Chinese with only numbers written
in English. Luckily we found a young Chinese
man who helped us out. We were all scattered
in various cabins though in same
compartment. Each cabin had 6 berths and
just about enough space to sit on the lower
berth. The top berth hardly allowed for the
passenger to lift the head. The corridor outside
the cabins was narrow and it had folding
seats which were all occupied. We struggled to
move our bags in that limited space. Luckily
we managed to get some passengers to
change their berths and we got two cabins to

7. ourselves. Rest were scattered. In my cabin three old Tibetans were sitting who would not listen or
move and we had to just accept the upper
berths.
Train had a restaurant where we would
go to get some freedom of movement and ease
but there also after a while we were asked to
move. Some of our group had good sleep while
others struggled. We had simple dried food for
our meals. Two of the members complained of
breathing problems. I had lingering headache
which did not budge even after taking pain
killers. I was warned that the toilets are very
dirty on the train but fortunately we did not
experience any such issue. All along the route
the scenery was fabulous with mountains,
some covered with snow, rivers, blue or cloudy skies and greenery or rocky hills. Hardly any
people could be seen on the way but presence of Chinese soldiers was very visible.
Visiting Tibet was dream come true for many but it is not easy to visit this place. As I had
been to Kailas Mansarovar, this was my second visit though to different part of the country. Firstly
one has to obtain China visa without mentioning Tibet at all, and then the tour agents apply for
Tibet visas. One has to specify exact program
day by day and the hotels one is going to stay
in. To visit Tibet one has to be in a group of at
least eight people. No diversions or free
travelling is permitted. So during our stay in
China we saw only what was planned – no
opportunity to see local life, or witness poverty
or slums, and no possibility of talking as
hardly anyone can speak or understand
English. Even the guides refrained from
answering any political or controversial point.
We arrived in Lhasa and by the time
we reached the hotel it was late afternoon. It
was sunny and warm contrary to what we
had been warned to be prepared for extreme cold. We were strongly advised not to take a bath,
nor to do any hectic activity. I was worried about the effect altitude will have on passengers but all
seemed fine except one passenger. I had
lingering headache since I boarded the train
and I decided to take one altitude sickness
tablet to be on the safe side. Our rooms were
very hot and I could not sleep. Few of us
went for a walk along the main road and
round the corner we found the city square.
There were police and soldiers everywhere.
Soldiers with rifles were on roof tops. Police
were fully prepared for stopping monks from
self-immolation with a few fire extinguishers,
blankets and metal rods to hold a burning
person. On one side of the square was a
pagoda and there were followers doing ritual
prayers outside the pagoda. On our way back I saw a place where blind people were giving

8. massage. I took advantage of the same and found it relaxing. We walked around the area after
dinner. The traditional Tibetan houses have colourful fascia and designs. But Lhasa being
developed by the Chinese with modern concrete buildings will erase the beautiful heritage of Tibet.
Within short distance from our hotel, and within the city of Lhasa is the fabulous and
gigantic Potala Palace built on the slopes of the hills. It was originally built in the 7th century and
rebuilt in 17th century. It has over 1000 rooms and from the grounds the huge structure looks
awesome and huge. Walking up the steps to reach the top was daunting and difficult. The Palace
used to be the residence of Dalai Lamas and house their tombs also. Tons of gold has been used in
these tombs, pagodas and elsewhere. Since the present Dalai Lama left the country the palace is
used by monks.

9. After lunch we went to see the Pagoda in the square. This was the same square where we
had walked previous evening and seen the
Pagoda from the outside. The temple was
totally controlled and security checked by
Chinese police. The temple was huge with lots
of statutes and tombs also. Lot of gold has
been used in the place. After going back to
hotel I tried to sleep but the room was too hot
to sleep even though it was cloudy and cooler
than day before. After early dinner some of us
went for a Tibetan show. It was a wonderful
show with colourful costumes and gave an
inkling of Tibetan culture and life. On return to
the hotel we were told that one of our group
members had some health problems and
needed urgent treatment.
Next morning we visited Sera Monastery which is one of the three university monasteries of
Tibet. This was followed by visits to some Dalai Lama palaces surrounded by beautiful park. In
one monastery a debate was going on amongst young monk students and we sat there fascinated
by the way the debate was conducted. Under
the shade of a huge tree sat about 50 or so
monks, each in groups of three. Two would be
sitting on the ground while the third would be
standing and giving answers. When a point
was raised the standing monk would take a
big step, slamming his foot on the ground and
clap very loudly with two hands to make his
point. While we understood nothing, just
watching this action was fascinating.
We flew to Beijing next day and by the
time we reached hotel it was late. Next
morning we packed our bags and checked out
from the hotel. It was going to be a long day. In
the morning we visited Tiananmen Square made famous by the riots in 1989. Even to this day the
security is very tight and while we could see hundreds of tourists hardly any local people could be
seen in the square. This square is the largest in the world and can hold as much as 500,000
people. After the riots of 1989 there is that
constant fear that there could be repetition of
the same as such the government is being over
cautious. Right near the square are the
Palaces of Ming and Qing dynasties called the
Forbidden City. As lot of walking was involved
some of our members opted to hire wheel
chairs. After lunch we were taken to the
Olympic Park as some members wanted to
take photos from near the stadium. Later we
went to the fake market where everyone got
busy shopping while I had a wonderful
massage.
While in Beijing I witnessed censorship
at first hand. There was BBC program with David Cameron answering questions. I kept the

10. television on for an hour but as soon as Mr Cameron started talking the sound was cut off and half
picture was blocked. China follows a different political system so we have no right to criticise it.
But reading the news, and seeing the country one wonders how long this gagging of the masses
can be feasible. On one of the internal flights we had a Chinese guy speaking good English and
settled in USA. The conversation sums up the issue perfectly. To the question what did you think of
China, one passenger replied “very nice” and another one said “What we saw of it.” And that
American laughed in agreement. We saw the impressive skyscrapers, and modern roads and
flyovers, we saw clean and neat modern China, we saw malls and crowds, we saw highly
developed cities and modern facilities – but what we did not see was the real China, its country
side, its masses and any poverty or slums.
On such a tour it is difficult to please everyone. Some feel the itinerary is hectic and tiring
and would prefer more free time to relax and rest. While others feel that after spending all that
money on the trip they would prefer to make the most of it and see as much as possible. Overall
everyone in the group intermingled and mixed with each other. Punctuality and time keeping was
excellent. While we never got an opportunity to sit and talk after dinner, we had plenty of
opportunities to talk in the coaches. The trip overall was wonderful and memorable.
(Email : jayubhai@btinternet.com Website : www.jayantdoshi.yolasite.com )
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