Kranti Bhatewara took a tour of West Bengal from April 19-27, 2011 to observe the state elections. In a series of SMS messages, they shared observations and impressions from visiting various places. They found Kolkata to feel stagnant compared to other cities but also safe. Meetings with political party representatives and a journalist provided insights into the neck-and-neck race between Trinamool Congress and the Left. Sites visited included Singur, Shantiniketan, Kalighat temple, Belur Math, Eden Gardens, and Victoria Memorial Hall. The youth appeared educated but unemployment was an issue, and politics saw active youth participation.
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Bengal Diary
On the Eve of Change
SMS Updates of a West Bengal Tour, April 2011
Kranti S. Bhatewara
Email: kranti16@gmail.com
A tour of West Bengal on the eve of the elections and the results, April 19 – 27, 2011,
recorded by a young journalist-in-the-making in a collection of SMS messages.
TMC rally at Kharda
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Message 1: 19-04-2011, 8:50:25 IST
Suprabhaat! Suprabhaat! Suprabhaat! Within the one unified identity called India,
veiled are the diverse identities--- regional, ethnic, religious, linguistic, and so on.
With the quest to explore these, coupled with an opportunity to do so (tagging
alongwith dad to cover the West Bengal Assembly elections), I am all set to leave
for West Bengal today. Will keep updating you through the trip. Super Excited! Yet
poised. Will be visiting a few Maoist areas too. Pray that we return one piece :D ;)
Hope you doing great! Here’s wishing you a Good Day and Bourbon! Warm
Wishes… Kranti.
Message 2: 20-04-2011, 19:33:58 IST
Feels like I am travelling back in time. Kolkata is really backward in time and
advancement. An analytical comparison ran through my mind between Calcutta on
one hand and Mumbai and Nashik on the other. Mumbai is jet age city as
compared to Cal. Nashik too is way more advanced. The air, ambience and
environs give me an 18th century feel. Stagnation island since so many years. The
positive aspect is that, it appears to be pretty safe. Unlike the metros, the people
here appear to be way more simplistic. This version is based only on what I
witnessed today. Visited Trinamool (TMC) and CPI (M) party offices. Not at all
impressive :-/ . The interesting of all is the evidential difference- The Bengali
Language. The script itself is so different that it appears like an alien language! So
here is Kranti signing off for now and preparing for another day of visit through
Paschim Bangaal…Shabba Khair. Shubh Ratri.
Message 3: 21-04-2011, 18:36:11 IST
Oh man! Just couldn’t wait to message you. Walking out of ‘Ganashakti’; a regional
Bengali newspaper’s office. We met a super intelligently bright reporter- Mr.
Debashish Chakraborty. The best thing to have happened so far. A great blend of
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intelligence and presentation skills. How I wish we were blessed with such
professors. An enlighteningly rich hour wherein he spoke about the scenario of
elections and related topics. There is so much of intellectual wealth hidden in this
country. So many intellectual diamonds within the coal mines of ignorance. That
apart, I specifically noticed a lot of beauty, grace, charm and magic in the thoughts,
speech and presentation of the people of Communist ideology (the reporter
included- he evidently appeared to be a communist). Earlier it appeared that
Mamta Banerjee will have a clean sweep win. But now, it appears to be a tough,
neck-to-neck fight between the Trinamool and the Leftists (predominantly the CPI
(M)). Highlight of the day- had a fruitful visit to Singur- the controversial Tata Nano
Plant. The party representative of CPI (M) at Singur was speaking as if a Text Book
is put on the ‘Live mode’! Truly an intellectual!! Wanting to write so much but very
little space! Tc
Message 4: 22-04-2011, 21:12:22 IST
The entire Bengal sleeps in the afternoon! Witnessed Dum Dum and Kharda with all
the shops shut. What a stress-free life these people choose to live. The CPI (M)
office at Kharda is an apt example of the life of 18th century still being preserved.
The time machine travel made us witness the backwardness proximately at Dum
Dum and Kharda. When on one hand I will say, the best thing about Bengal is that
it is an extremely peaceful state (in terms of not being an active part of the global
village and not being affected by its negative influences), that very point leads to a
lifeless retarded progress of Bengal. Where on one hand we have a killing pace to
life in cities like Mumbai, these parts of Bengal stand at another extreme. The
communist cadre is undoubtedly a pool of intellectuals.
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Entrace to CPI(M) office at Jadhavpur Constituency
However, with 35 years in power, power has gone to the head of some elements
who indulged into ant-social activities and corruption. Wanting to read more about
this unexplored new topic of the barbaric face of the Left. It’s not easy to believe
that it can be true. [1/2].
Contd… [2/2] But the immediate instance that propels one to believe in the
barbarism is the birth of the Maoists and Naxalite fragments here. It is said that
these fragments earlier belonged to the communist movement. The labour unions
said to have been promoted by the Left, have been responsible for shutting
thousands of industries.
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Tata Nano Plant at Singur
The immediate counter then is, when the Left government took great efforts in the
establishment of the Tata Nano Plant, the plant having been completed in
construction and compensation cheques having been given to 83% of the land
owners from whom the land was acquired, what was the whole point in opposing it?
Singur could have become an industrial township by now. Rehabilitation packages
and training of different professions was already being worked upon by the Left.
So Tata Nano opposition was a big mistake and a politically motivated agitation.
Two strong candidates both of good calibre are contesting from Kharda. Both say
their win is certain. Either of the 2 candidates who wins from Kharda will be the
finance minister of the state. The state is under the burden of a huge loan amounting
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to 2 Lakhs & 8 thousand crores INR and it certainly needs an ‘economist in the
nerves’ to bring about a financial revamping of the state. That’s for now. Tc.
Message 5: 23-04-2011, 14:11:08 IST
The Bengal Summer Heat effect- I have become Ms. ‘Tan’ ‘Sen’. Hope things are
great at your end. Good day! Love… Kranti.
Message 6: 23-04-2011, 17:38:59 IST
The see saw of life! A time when Mamta Banerjee was at the lower end of the see
saw was when Somen Mitra had slapped a humiliating defeat on Mamta for the
post of the President of Pradesh Congress Committee of Bengal during Narsimha
Rao’s tenure. Thereafter during Sitaram Kesari’s presidency tenure, it was Somen
who broke the news of her being thrown out of Congress. And today, Somen is at
the lower end of the see saw with his surrendering himself to the might of Mamta
and being one of the many soldiers of the troupe of which she is the major general
today. Starting from a scratch with the dejection of an unsuccessful political career,
Mamta today has proved her herculean strength by being the only spark who has
dared to challenge the 35 years old rule of the Leftists within the state. She has not
just challenged but is proving to be the much awaited storm of change with the kind
of fierce competition she has given to her whole and sole opposition party- the CPI
(M). [1/2]
Contd… [2/2]On this backdrop of Mamta’s ascent of her political career, I feel
bad for Buddhadeb Bhatacharjee’s descent. Although his intentions and dreams of
developing and industrializing Bengal were all genuine and honest, he became the
scapegoat. It was the Left’s deteriorating performance coupled with the air of
power, anti-social activities, labour unionism, bandhs and strikes, control over police,
caderisation of the entire teaching faculty, undue control over educational institutes
that had all put together already created an environment of the declining image of
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the Left. To add to it was the major defeat during the last Panchayat and Lok
Sabha elections that created a wave of the fall of the Left regime. All in all, a
super huge anti-incumbency factor- that in accumulation of 35 long years.
Message 7: 25-04-2011, 17:34:37 IST
Open Air Classroom at Shantiniketan
Shantiniketan- a gurukul that was celebrated for its value based education without
the confines of a classroom. With the emphasis on unleashing the creativity within
oneself, this concept school pioneered by Rabindranath Tagore differed
fundamentally in all aspects of the educational pattern, teaching systems and
methods. Open air gatherings with a blackboard and otaas for seating, with otaa
desks was a significant characteristic. Located far away from the mainland of
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Bengal at Bolpur, it is close to Somnathda Chatterjee’s (ex Lok Sabha Speaker)
home. While the ‘red’ colony of which his home forms a part is maintained
meticulously to perfection, unfortunately the same cannot be said about the gurukul
that had a glorious past. The present day plight of the campus is pitiable. Barring
the patch of reserved forest, the campus is ill maintained. [1/2]
Statue of Rabindranath Tagore in the Reserved Forest Area at Shantiniketan
Contd… [2/2] The interesting of all is the point that a person like Rabindranath,
seated so far off from the mainstream of the world, had the strength and beauty in
his thoughts, deeds, speech and action to create the intellectually stimulating
ambience in his gurukul and even further- bag the noble prize. Sadly though, today,
there is no definite portrayal of any of the aspects of the gurukul before the visitors
including the Rabindra Sangeet. All in all, as of today, what we are left with is a lot
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of distorted threads of a once upon a time superfine fabric. Shantiniketan has to its
credit- a glorious past, a pitiable present and an uncertain future…
Message 8: 27-04-2011, 20:23:22 IST
Kali mata- the goddess that destroys the evil and symbolizes strength and
righteousness…located at Kalighat is the Kali temple which is like most of the Hindu
temples, known for its unfortunate, state-of-the-art unclean surroundings and
emptying the pockets of the tourist-devotee by charging them for their emotions
and prayers towards the goddess. The goddess is pleased by the sacrifice of a
buffalo and a goat. There is a distinct place allocated in the temple premises for
the sacrifices. We expressed our gratitude to the almighty by showering flowers at
her feet and at the place of sacrifices. Jai ma Kali! Give us all the vision of
righteousness and the peaceful insight and outlet of destroying the evil… At
Kalighat is located another Ma Kali’s residence- Mamta Banerjee! She is all set to
destroy the ills of a 35 year old Leftist rule.
Message 9: 27-04-2011, 20:30:05 IST
Belur Math- The place where Swami Ramakrishna Paramhans gave diksha to Swami
Vivekanand. Unlike the usual Hindu religious places, this place is extremely clean,
peaceful, serene and silent. The beautiful structure that stands on the banks of the
Ganges has a living swami whom people bow down to. Prayed before Swami
Ramkrishna’s statue, in the temple that opens only for 5 minutes every hour, for all
my close people with an honest, pure heart. Recollected the beautifully intelligent
thoughts of Swami Ramakrishna read in a book, courtesy Oxford Bookstore-my
frequent hangout place during graduation years at Mumbai. It’s quite unlike me
who is praising a Swami. But the fact of the genuine intelligence and greatness of
his thoughts wins the race of my disbelief in the monks/sadhus/swamis of today’s
time.
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One of the Structures at Belur Math, Howrah
Message 10: 27-04-2011, 20:39:41 IST
‘EDEN-E-AASHUN, SHAKKHI TAAKHUN’. ‘Come to Eden and witness Shakti.’ Guess
that’s what it means! Hoardings all across Kolkata bear this with reference to
Kolkata Knight Riders and the Eden Gardens. The Eden that has witnessed several
tale-twisting, nail-biting-end cricket matches also has been graced with several
celebs. In a city that is ornamented with the grace and elegance of an indianisingly
cultured bride, we had the Eden being ornamented with the boldness of an
urbanized beauty (Dipika Padukone) sharing an intimate moment with the prince of
good times (Sid Mallya) during one of the matches at Eden. At the Dalhousie area
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that boasts to be the plush area of Kolkata, are located the grand structures of The
RBI, The High Court of Calcutta, The Post’s red building and of course! The Writers
Building - Government Offices, Raj Bhavan, West Bengal Assembly. The Eden looks
beautiful even from the outside.
Message 11: 27-04-2011, 20:46:05 IST
The youth of Bengal are educated and skilled yet a dominant portion is
unemployed (this observation is based on hear-says only). The notable feature is
their active participation and contribution in the governance of the state including
politics. In fact, the youngest candidate in the elections; Shatarup Ghosh, a CPI (M)
candidate, is only 25 years old. I was reminded of the fully charged spirit, the
immensely high amount of dedication and devotion with which I and my college
mates battled out the fierce competition at inter-collegiate festivals. If and only if
this dedicated student force, like the one of my college contributes towards active
politics, we could contribute heavily in bringing about a change. But overtime one
tends to become a conformist…
Message 12: 27-04-2011, 20:53:35
Victoria Memorial Hall, Kolkata
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The Victoria Memorial Hall- a magnanimously royal structure of beauty built during
the British regime is indeed an example of a well maintained monument with the
wasteful utilization of space. There are paintings with nothingness of greatness and
an exhibition of history- all of which one can easily find over the internet. Oh but
the interesting of all are the legal documents that have been preserved (draftings
and judgements) of the Alipore Bomb case and few others. What makkhan ki tarah
drafting done which is an example of sheer excellence. The drafting of an
advertisement by the writer, director, translator of a play of the earlier times was
also equally excellent. Apart from these few interesting documents, raddi (scrap)
documents have also been framed and put up in an air-conditioned hall! So about
Victoria memorial hall, I have to say- Victoria…dur se tujhe dekha toh dil de baithe,
pass jakar dekha toh pancham George baithe!!! :D
Victoria Memorial Hall, Kolkata
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Message 13: 27-04-2011, 21:01:05 IST
The Howrah bridge- this highly famous bridge of Kolkata constructed during the
British India period still stands strong and shows absolutely no signs of ageing. Right
outside the crucial railway station Howrah, there poses an ugly face of Kolkata
where cabs run half on road and half on the footpath leading you right away to
the Rabindra Setu, popularly known as the Howrah Bridge. A parallel bridge has
been constructed to relieve the burden on the Howrah Bridge. The ferry services run
at the bottom of the bridge in the Ganges that looks stunning from both the Howrah
Bridge and the new parallel bridge somewhat like the Bandra - Worli Sea Link
bridge at Mumbai.
Howrah Bridge
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Message 14: 27-04-2011, 21:03:54 IST
Existence of malls is a rare occurrence here. Bengal cotton sarees are very popular.
Mamta Banerjee wears ‘taat ka saree’. Co-incidentally we visited the same shop
from where Mamtaji purchases her sarees (according to the shopkeeper claiming
the same lest it be a false exaggeration!). Infact upon me telling the shopkeeper-
“Mamta Banerjee jo saree pehenti hai who dikhaiye”, he was prompt to ask-“Aap
Mamtaji ke liya saree kharidne aaye ho kya?” Sharee Kuthir is a very famous shop.
Apart from New Market and other markets like Bada Bazaar and Garia Haat, the
South City Mall is a giant modern structure like most of the malls at Delhi and
Mumbai. I enjoyed my round of a lively window shopping experience at the mall.
Message 15: 27-04-2011, 21:06:16 IST
Kolkata- the first and the last Indian city to have the trams. They run right between
the road alongwith the other speedy vehicles. The fare is peanuts! Anyone can
overtake the tram at any time and make it stop right away. The tram is connected
to the electrical lines that supply electricity to it. Big trailers cannot pass across these
streets since the electrification is at a low height. Very few people prefer this mode
of travel. The cab fare is too much which begins at a minimum of Rs.22!
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An active Tram, Cabs and People in Kolkata
We have the metro rail on one extreme and on the other extreme we witness the
hand-drawn rickshaws too! So tram fare is peanuts and cab fare is too high, metro
trains are a 21st century representative whereas hand-drawn rickshaws are an 18th
century preservation!
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Hand-drawn Rickshaw in motion
Message 16: 27-04-2011, 21:10:54 IST
West Bengal…capturing beautiful memories of a state that is an existence of
contrasting juxtapositions… in terms of its geographical location as well as the
peace-loving cultured people in contrast to the epitome of insurgents within the
country- the Naxalites and the Maoists. So today, when a yet another metro city of
the nation shuts down itself for voting sincerely for a “change”, I bid a good bye to
this ‘City of Joy’. The city definitely showered a lot of love and care during my stay
here. So finally as I left on way to Howrah railway terminal, the city showered tears
of rain as if whispering in my ears…”Tussi jaa rahe ho, tussi na jao”. Jai Bengal! Jai
Hind!! Jai Bharat!!!