1. 105May/June 2013 AsiaSpa104 AsiaSpa May/June 2013
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Sisters are doing
it for themselves
I’m based in Bali, one of the world’s most magical surfing destinations
and renowned yoga centres, yet I haven’t really seriously pursued either
activity. I’m also guilty of not fully appreciating this tropical paradise
island, with scant time to kick back and really feel the sand between
my toes. Bali hosts numerous surf camps, but the Surf Goddess Retreat
is consistently recognised as one of the world’s premier surf and yoga
experiences and Bali’s leading (and first) all-women surf retreat.
Writer Samantha Coomber
OlivierCadeaux/Corbis

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A
lthough surfing is pivotal, it’s just
the catalyst in this pioneering Bali
retreat. Australian surfer Chelsea
Hunter founded Surf Goddess Retreat
(SGR) in 2003, believing that surfing can
also be a state of mind and female tool
of empowerment. The retreat’s seven- or
eight-day programme offers a supportive,
fun and all-female environment, where
women of all shapes and ages can learn
to surf (in a previously male-dominated
culture), balanced with yoga, gourmet
cuisine and divine pampering for personal
transformations. This year SGR celebrates
ten years at the top of the luxury surf retreat
market, successfully introducing over 3,000
women from across the globe to surfing and
life-changing experiences. Lost in a fast-
paced laptop-deadline blur, it’s high time
I switched off and, like the retreat itself,
stick a door-sign up, declaring “Gone to the
Beach.” Book me a place!
DAY 1
In Bali’s sultry afternoon heat, I’m deposited
down a narrow laneway and through
wooden doors, enter Villa Serena, aka ‘Surf
Goddess Sanctuary.’
I’m surprised (read: ecstatic) to find SGR
is far removed from any surfer’s budget hang-
out or detox boot camp – instead, I find a
heaven-sent, all-white colonial villa set in
tropical gardens with swimming pool and
positioned in the heart of Seminyak, Bali’s
hippest suburb, where fabulous beaches,
bars, spas, boutiques and restaurants are
on its doorstep.
“Why rough it for a yoga retreat or surf
camp,” remarks Supreme Surf Goddess
(SSG) Chelsea. “We’ve created a luxurious
touches cover custom-blended bathroom
products, cotton kimonos and fragrant
tuberose flowers. On my canopied bed, my
starter Goddess kit includes a beach bag and
a rash vest emblazoned with ‘Surf Goddess
Retreat,’ plus a turquoise sarong.
No sooner had I unpacked, it’s our first
yoga session at 4:30pm in the outdoor
garden pavilion, where I meet other ‘surf
sistas.’ Although these daily 90-minute
yoga sessions contribute to personal
transformation, they also run in sync
with surf lessons. Grounded in Hatha
style, these customised sessions help surf
preparation and revitalisation of aching
limbs, besides creating surfing positions,
flexibility and body awareness. Today’s
mellow introduction allows Yoga Goddess,
Raine, to evaluate our yoga levels. As a
novice, it’s painfully evident how unsupple
I am, but Raine is empathetic, propping up
my closed hips with extra blankets!
At evening orientation, we’re
enthusiastically greeted by the retreat crew
– Michelle and Indonesian assistant, Nana,
and Australian retreat leaders Raine plus
Melinda, a die-hard, accomplished surfer –
who explain all there’s to know about SGR
and this island of the Gods.
We nervously introduce ourselves
AA-style, soon descending into hen-
party mode. A typical group, we’re ten
professional women (maximum 12, creating
a supportive, small-group environment)
from North America, Europe and Australia,
mid-20s to late-40s. Here for varying
personal reasons, we’re united by a desire
to learn to surf. Most, like me, are complete
surf beginners and solo travellers, filled
with delicious expectations – and some
apprehension – of our week ahead. Our
welcome dinner is filled with laughter and
excitement, introducing us to another SGR
highlight, yummy health-giving cuisine,
with fresh, organic ingredients bursting
with tropical flavours – tonight, cauliflower
soufflé, roasted pumpkin salad, barbecued
pesto chicken and tamarillo crumble.
Apart from the gardener, there’s not a
man in sight: I was concerned about all that
oestrogen floating around, but all-women
empowerment seems to work, contributing
to SGR’s success. We’re all from different
surf retreat fit for Goddesses for a unique
way to learn to surf.”
This exclusively designed, all-women’s
retreat epitomises Bali’s carefree tropical
island living with barefoot chic and open-
air living spaces spilling out onto expansive
lawns.
Sitting in the open-air living-dining
room, handed my iced mint ginger juice and
welcomed by retreat manager, Michelle,
I immediately de-stress. A warm, bubbly
Scotswoman, for the next week, Michelle is
chief nurturer, big sis and two-legged Bali
directory. At the adjoining open-kitchen,
where all-female cooks prepare meals,
a blackboard scrawled with “Welcome
Goddesses!” sets the tone.
I’m led to one of the gorgeously
appointed guestrooms (shared, or in my
case, private), where thoughtful feminine
“We’ve created a
luxurious surf
retreat fit for Goddesses
for a unique way to
learn to surf”
~ Chelsea Hunter
this page: Private villa
room and SerenaVilla at Surf
Goddess Retreat. opposite
page: Surfing in the tube
AsiaSpa May/June 2013
LEFT:SeanDavey/AuroraOpen/Corbis.RIGHT:SURFGODDESSRETREATX2

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nations, but uncannily like-minded, and I
instantly gel with these inspirational and
witty women. Men? Who needs ‘em? Well,
not this week.
DAY 2
SGR is dominated by daily surfing schedules
with local tides dictating times, hence
most breakfasts start early. But even at this
ungodly hour (6:30am), infectious laughter
rings out and we’re rewarded with fuel-
giving breakfasts like tropical fruit pancakes
with Borneo honey. Ever-smiley Melinda
bounds in, playing a surfing DVD to get us
fired-up – or more nervous – for our first
surf lesson.
At 7:30am, Rip Curl School of Surf’s
minivan awaits. I’m the oldest of the group,
but driving off to nearby Legian Beach, feel
I’m four and it’s my first day at school.
At Rip Curl HQ, we ritually change
into our baby-blue ‘surf goddess’ rash vests
(just so everyone knows) and carry what
feels like gigantic surfboards to the beach,
where we meet our cute team of Balinese
(male) instructors. One of the best places
allows for maximum flexibility and plenty
of personal time to enjoy Bali’s countless
distractions at our own pace, within a
group experience. Spas are an intrinsic part
of Balinese culture: indulging our inner
Goddess, the retreat package includes six
hours of treatments without leaving the
sanctuary. During this afternoon’s personal
time, I wisely take the Balinese massage,
which soothes my aching limbs, in the
garden spa therapy room camouflaged
by frangipani trees. I practically float to
this page: Surfing at
dawn. opposite page:
Contemplating the waves
from the shore
Having mastered standing up, today we
learn paddling and wave types. Looking out
to the crashing waves, the smile disappears
off my face. Aided by our instructors
yesterday, today, paddling out into the
bigger waves and picking the right one to
come into shore requires more Herculean
efforts. Again, we crack it, but after an hour,
I’m done (or my triceps are).
I feel like an 80-year-old, but even the
younger women feel stiff; time for a highly
restorative hot stone massage.
Our 5:30pm yoga session features
stretches and holding yoga positions
specific to building strength and balance,
but they seem to hold forever and I’m
struggling. Luckily, Raine understands our
the 5:30pm yoga session, which, thank
the Gods, doesn’t entail anything too
challenging – relaxing and restorative Yin
Yoga.
Dinnertime is important, where
Goddesses and crew share the day’s
experiences and priceless anecdotes
over sublime meals. Here, positive
encouragement and camaraderie is honed
like an art form. Hardly surprising, I sleep
like a log.
DAY 3
I’m stiff, but surf’s up and it’s another beautiful
day; enough time for Melinda’s daily surf
pep talks and wolfing down breakfast before
being transported to the beach.
(my) personal limitations.
Adding to the retreat’s super-positivity
and nurturing, nightly affirmation cards
deposited bedside yield such motivating
words as, “I let go of all expectations, I flow
freely and lovingly with life. I know that only
good awaits me at every turn.”
DAY 4
Today’s tides dictate that surfing is at a later
2pm slot; no chance of a rest, however, as
yoga starts at 7am.
“Goddesses are everywhere in Hindu
tradition and we reflect this spiritual side
by combining yoga with surfing,” says SSG,
Chelsea. But I utter distinctly unspiritual
mutterings attempting stretching positions,
to learn to surf, Bali enjoys consistent all-
year round surf and warm tropical waters;
beaches like Legian make surfing easier
for beginners with manageable waves and
sandy bottomed, shallow seas. Conditions
today are perfect; gloriously sunny and well-
formed waves.
Exclusively tailor-made with Rip Curl,
SGR’s all-women, all-level surf lessons
teach basic surf skills to essential wave
and tide knowledge, plus enough skills
to ride waves independently afterwards.
Encouraged to progress at our own pace,
we’ll be supervised individually.
Today, we’re learning how to handle
the board, stand-up and water safety. After
exercises and theories dispensed on sand,
we lug our long boards through crashing
waves. Fun but tiring (encouraged, as
everyday, by our instructors and Melinda,
the shoreline or surf-bound cheerleader),
but by the end of two-hours, I and everyone
are standing up, albeit wobbly: we’re
euphoric. I learn however that this is the
norm.
While there’s set daily schedules, SGR
LEFT:SURFGODDESSRETREAT.RIGHT:DavidSpurdens/www.ExtremeSportsPhoto.com/Corbis

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and when the heat kicks in, I head to the
pool; Villa Serena resembling a five-star,
supplying sunbeds, fluffy towels and
sunscreen, plus unlimited spring water, soft
drinks and fruit.
Back on the beach, it’s the big one –
turning the board and generating speed on
a wave, while establishing visual targets. I
feel smugly accomplished standing up and
catching waves (albeit failing to master
the ‘turtle manoeuvre’ for larger waves).
But now we watch our infectiously fun
instructors demonstrate effortless turning
techniques, then attempt that ourselves. I
repeatedly fall off, but instructors are patient
and ‘sistahood’ bonds sure blossom.
Post four o’clock is Bali’s magical sunset
time down the beach; I’m content just to be
driven home for a hot shower. Retreat meal
systems are unstructured; there’s no dinner
tonight, so Goddesses can experience the
island’s wonderful culinary options.
A peaceful sanctuary, Serena is,
however, a short stroll from ‘Eat Street,’
with wall-to-wall stylish restaurants. All the
Bali novices hit the town; I instead doze off
to a hydrating aloe vera facial, followed by
Seminyak retail therapy and dining, before
lounging on my private terrace.
Later, I dream someone is shouting at
me, “Stand up, Sammy! Stand up!”
DAY 5
The blackboard declares, “Enjoy your
activities!” It’s ‘Bliss Day’ whereby surfing is
swapped for personally chosen cultural and
leisure activities allowing us to experience
Bali’s best. Bliss Day Options include
countryside cycling tours, jungle river
white-water rafting, Indonesian cooking
classes, local market tours, psychic spiritual
counselling sessions and more. I’m looking
“It’s all about personal goals,
although a group experience.
Don’t compare and just enjoy
the process”
~ Chelsea Hunter
this page: Riding the wave; ‘Surf sistas’.
opposite page: Underwater view
LEFT:JustinLewis/cultura/Corbis.RIGHT:DavidPu’u/Corbis;(BELOW)SURFGODDESSRETREAT

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forward to a surfing day-off, albeit still
exerting myself with a morning Eco-Walking
Tour, but uncommonly for me, immersing
myself in traditional rural communities
and guided hikes through rain-forested
riverbanks and luscious rice fields. Rounded
off with a sumptuous Balinese lunch spread
overlooking...more rice fields.
By now, we’re all scrambling to expend
our accumulating spa hours – one Goddess
quipping, “I’ve had more spa treatments
this week than I’ve had in my life!” Sun,
sea and now paddy-mud excesses urgently
call for a mani-pedi and a Heavenly Hair
Spa treatment, with heated coconut oil
massaged into my scalp, up on the first-floor
patio. Suitably beautified (and spoilt) I join
the group at a swanky beach club nearby for
ritual sunset cocktails, followed by al fresco
dining. Glammed up, honey-browned and
rash vests discarded, now we look like
Goddesses.
DAY 6
Given last night’s revelry, many are MIA
from this morning’s yoga – including me,
rewarding myself with a lie-in.
It’s good to be back on the beach, and
part of what’s become a daily, well-oiled
routine: changing into surf gear, lugging
boards, stuck into exercises and awaiting
instructions. We have it sussed, or maybe
not, taught today how to link up turns, walk
the board and gather speed; I’m still getting
to grips with basic turns, but whatever! It’s
fun paddling out and joining group ‘board
meetings’ while waiting for waves, plus
I’ve learnt how to read tide charts. Back at
Serena, enough time for a reinvigorating foot
massage – releasing post-surfing tension –
before ‘The Last Supper.’
Generally teary affairs, tonight is no
exception (aided by bottles of wine);
the exquisitely decorated table set for
a feast of mango Keralan salad, grilled
mahi-mahi with mango salsa and fruit
pavlova. Strangers bonded together like
superglue, now as graduating Goddesses
we’re more relaxed and glowing: each
stand-up testimonial reiterates newfound
confidence, renewed appetite for life and
a sense of accomplishment: out of our
comfort zone to surf Bali’s waves, we can
tackle anything!
DAY 7
8am: as fatigue and distractions kick in, yoga
attendees have slowly dwindled, but I make
a concerted effort for our yoga finale, which
includes meditation. As I chant my final
‘ommms’, I reflect that I’m still ridiculously
unsupple but have improved (and I’m aware
that I should do something about this).
Last-day blues haven’t hit breakfast;
instead, there is whooping and high fives
while viewing a complimentary compilation
surf DVD recording, showing how far
we’ve progressed from nervous novices.
We’re driven to Legian Beach one last time,
learning about taking off at angles and
surfing etiquette. While concentrating more
on perfecting turns (or lack of), we agree it’s
been unexpectedly fun learning to surf en
masse, while developing at our own rate and
style. I’m not as proficient as some, but as
the oldest, I felt I’d achieved enough: I can
paddle, catch my own waves, stand up with
a nice bum-tuck, just about turn, and one
day, amazingly, go off and surf by myself!
As the SSG preaches, “It’s all about
personal goals, although a group experience.
Don’t compare and just enjoy the process. “
Dragging surfboards off the beach, we
bid selamat tinggal to our tireless instructors.
Our last villa meal together is subdued
with good reason, but a sumptuous
Asian high tea with pots of masala chai
compensates.
I don’t relish facing the outside world
(maybe I should hide in the gardens) and
saying fond farewells to my ‘surf sistas,’
indefatigable SGR crew and pampering
retreat, where I haven’t had to think about
much, except new possibilities. As I
depart, the writing is on the wall, literally,
the blackboard exclaiming, “Goodbye
Goddesses!” Now I really am a fully fledged
Surf Goddess.
www.surfgoddessretreats.com
this page: Paddling at
sunset. opposite page:
Heading out to hit the waves
LEFT:JustinLewis/cultura/Corbis.RIGHT:SURFGODDESSRETREAT