Anjali Seervi,Fashion Design Student NSQF Level -5

HISTORY
OF
FASHION
Submitted By:-
Anjali Seervi
1st Year Diploma In Fashion Design
NSQF level 5 (NSDC

Project Report
On
Embroidery
At
Dezyne E’cole college
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole College
Towards Partial Fullfillment
of 1st year Fashion Design Diploma
NSQF level 5
NSDC
By
Anjali seervi
106/10 Civil lines Ajmer
Telephone: 0145-2624679 - 0982902489
www.dezyneecole.com
2016-2017

This project ms Anjali Seervi student fashion technology with one
years womens wear fashion diploma program has been checked
and graded as
Thanks
Principal
Seal a signature

ACKNOWL EDGEMENT
I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and
deep regards to Dezyne E’cole College for their exemplary
guidance monitoring and constant encouragement throughout
the course of this project
I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of
gratitude to the mentors of Dezyne E’cole college for their
cardinal support valuable information and guidance which
helped me in completing this task through various stages.
ANJALI SEERVI
1st year diploma in fashion in
technology.

• History Of Fashion
• Fashion Studies
• Colour For Fashion Design
• Illustration
• Graphics
Content Which We Learnt In Our One Year
Diploma Programme In Fashion Technology
• Garment Construction
Basic Stitches
• Corel – Draw
• Embroidery
• Draping

Fashion is more than just clothing; it reflects the wider spectrum of
aesthetics, art anddesign trends in contemporary society. This makes it
a multi-faceted word engaging with a range of surrounding influences.
In simple terms, fashion is a social process by which newly introduced
styles or trends become popular in a certain time with acceptability by a
wider cross-section of consumers.
Clothing is a general term referring toactual objects related to the
human body. Apparel refers togarments made of fabric, knits, leather or
other wearable materials.
Costume is derived from word 'custom' evolving from the environment
and customs ofsociety. It refers to clothing for a specific use - be it for a
ritual or performance, ethnic or historical within a specific context of
occasion and time.
To understand contemporary fashion within a context, it is essential to
know its origin and evolutionary process. The knowledge of fashion and
costume history is important since they are the inevitable outcome of
the socio-cultural-political influences prevalent in society at different
points in time.

Understanding Fashion - Definition and Overview
Fashion is an ever changing, vital and influential force
that impacts our everyday lives. Our lifestyle i.e. - the way
we live, what we eat, what we wear, and the activities we
indulge in and how we spend our leisure time are all
manifestations of this dynamic force.
•Haute Couture
Fashion leadership in customized. Fine dressmaking
started with a small group of French fashion producers
known as the 'haute couture' (from the French language,
meaning high-class dressmaking; leading dress designers
collectively, or their products).
•High Fashion Ready-to-Wear
Ready to Wear is derived from French word 'Prêt a Porter',
which means 'off-the-rack' or 'off-the- peg'.
Stitched garments in varied sizes, ready to be purchased of
the rack were originally a minor sideline of a few couture
houses. However, this side of the industry has steadily

1 London
British fashion is famous for its eccentricity reputation and plethora
of quirky ideas, its creativity and 'street fashion'. British fashion has
also long been known for its traditional style, especially its tweeds
and men's custom tailoring.
2 MILAN
Italian style is undoubtedly the most mature expression of
aesthetic appeal with a practical orientation, as can be seen in
its interior design, lifestyle products and fashion.
3 NEW YORK
American fashion is straightforward, sensible and
businesslike, aimed at the average consumer. The
American approach has always been to solve the
problems of the customer, and in doing so the U.S.

•Paris
The French had been looked to with great admiration for their
dress sense well before Haute Couture began in the 18th
century. In the 18th century, couturier Rose Bertin was named
the Minister for Fashion and the position was still retained in
the Napoleonic era.
Tokyo
The Japanese production industry has transformed
remarkably in the recent years. In the process, Japan
has made popular a unique style which has
developed with the Japanese fashion makers,
blending the knowledge of world fashion with
traditional Japanese aesthetics and concepts of
beauty.
•Ready-to-Wear and Mass-Produced garments: Off-
Shore
Manufacturing
Ready-to-wear and mass produced garments are produced
in large quantities in low wage countries at very low costs. As

Clothes are what cover the human body, which in turn,
depend on physical conditions like climate, geographical area,
available raw material, textiles etc. Clothes indicate social
significance like religious beliefs and aesthetics; exhibit
individual status; proclaim alliance with or create
differentiation among a group. Items of clothing and
accessories would be included in the vocabulary of clothing.
There are several points of views regarding the origin
and need for clothing. One school of thought believes
that man covered his body for protecting himself from
the vagaries of climate and nature. Psychologists and
ethnologists refer to psychological reasons like the fig
leaf used by Adam and Eve as a symbol of modesty
referred to in the Bible. Anthropologists cite reasons
associated with taboo as well as the desire for personal
adornment to please both oneself and others

Clothes are what cover the human body, which in turn, depend on
physical conditions like climate, geographical area, available raw
material, textiles etc. Clothes indicate social significance like
religious beliefs and aesthetics; exhibit individual status; proclaim
alliance with or create differentiation among a group. Items of
clothing and accessories would be included in the vocabulary of
clothing.
There are several points of views regarding the origin and
need for clothing. One school of thought believes that man
covered his body for protecting himself from the vagaries of
climate and nature. Psychologists and ethnologists refer to
psychological reasons like the fig leaf used by Adam and Eve
as a symbol of modesty referred to in the Bible.
Anthropologists cite reasons associated with taboo as well as
the desire for personal adornment to please both oneself and
others.

. Psychologists propound the view that human being like to
modify their appearance - the use of body covering is one
such type of modification. Other ways for achieving this is
through varying hairstyles, alteration of shape and surface
of the body through clothes, body adornment etc. Such
changes are done in order to make the self, more
acceptable to others so that there is a commonality and
bonding with the others within the same social 'tribe'.
Panier understructure understucture worn under
the voluminous court gown

Primitive men covered their body with animal skin and fur
which were shaped to parts of the human body. Different
sizes, shapes and textures of skins would have necessitated
varying approaches to their use and function when applied
to cover or adorn the human figure. Later they used tree
bark fibre to protect themselves against extremities of
climate. However clothes are not merely utilitarian but have
a deeper significance. The co-relation between the belief of
primitive men in magic and representation of successful
hunting through cave paintings dates back to the early
Paleolithic period. Even today, certain tribes that normally
live naked also wear clothes on special occasions!

Sources of Information
In prehistoric times the lifestyle of humans changed
according to changes in climate, which also
influenced costume. Remnants of their clothing have
been found in valleys and caves. Tools, costumes
and accessories travelled along the trade routes
which were extended and defined in the Bronze and
Iron Ages. It is assumed that fur, stones etc. may
have been bartered in different societies. The
predominant use of animal skins would have been
necessitated by the need for warmth. The skins were
scraped and the fur was combed. The

eyed-needle of bone or horn was used for assembly of
pieces threaded by long manes and tails of horses as
well as split reindeer tendons. Few vestiges of clothing
from early ages remain, since cloth made of vegetable
fibre like rushes (grass), linen etc. are perishable.
Archaeology uses the most scientific methods on
surviving specimens of prehistoric textiles to extract
the fullest information about the materials and
manufacturing techniques.
eyed-needle of bone or horn was used for assembly of pieces threaded by long manes and tails of horses as well as split reindeer tendons. Few ves
Necklinebronze age
Paris des antiquities
nationalss

Roman sandals discovered in London first
century andt the London museumFactors Affecting Clothing
Sociologists, anthropologists and psychologists have tried to
explain the motivation for wearing clothes. Fashion historian
James Laver, has propounded three principles of Seduction,
Utility and Hierarchy which govern clothing. Other historians
have propounded 4 different explanations regarding the
importance of the following factors:
1.Protection
2.Rituals
3.Identification
4.Adornment
Protection
Several scholars say that the need for clothing was born out
of physical necessity. Men required clothing in response to
the need for protection and for shelter against extreme
variations of temperature, rain, dust,

Wearing several layers of clothing is also seen in areas of high
temperature where it is important to prevent the body from
becoming dehydrated under the blazing sun. The Tuareg of the
Sahara and the Bedou of Saudi Arabia wear long robes and loose
trousers in light, cool cotton for protection and air circulation. In
parts of Saudi Arabia and Africa, men protect themselves with a
loose head-covering which can cover their heads, mouth and nostrils
for protection against dust and sand, revealing only the eyes.
It is important to understand that the indigenous clothing in
different parts of the world use locally available materials utilizing
the craft skills of the people. Examples are leather garments made
by tribes, by cleaning of the leather either by scraping away excess
animal fat sticking to it and then softening it by rubbing animal fat,
or even by mastication (chewing). The Ainu of North Japan &
Siberian Gilayak use fish skins to make waterproof garments.

The natives who live in the cool temperate zones near
on the North West coast of Canada, wear short poncho-
like rain capes of shredded cedar barks and conical wide
brimmed waterproof woven hats, for protection against
heavy rainfall. Bark fiber is preferable over animal skins
in moist, tropical areas since it dries more easily.
Rituals
Primitive man believed that certain costumes could
endow special attributes and would protect him from
evil. Certain parts of animals like claws, hooves and
teeth worn as accessories, were believed to enhance
the wearer's strength and imbuehtion with the
characteristics of that creature. In Egypt, the lion's tail
and claws being symbolic of bravery, vigour and
shrewdness were an important part of the Pharaoh's
regalia.

Sometimes, the hunter felt that wearing hooves and
horns may transmit enviable qualities of that animal.
Eventually through auspicious association, he adopted a
certain animal as his symbol and this became a family
totem or crest through inheritance. This was publicized by
the use of their symbols on aprons, blankets or on totem
poles.
From earliest times, articles of clothing were also worn to
ward off the evil eye. They believed that only magic could
help. To combat malignant forces around. For women, the
greatest fear or curse was that of sterility. To counteract
this, cowry shells which resembled a woman's
reproductive organs, were used in clothing and
accessories. It is the same belief that caused both positive
and modern men to wear amulets, rings and other
adornments, which would act as good luck charms.

Certain costumes and ornaments also identify the wearer with gods,
heroes and other men. For primitive people, this identification was
factual (for heroes) while in contemporary times, it is more symbolic.
Theatre, which has its origin in ancient times, ranges from simple play-
acting by children at play, home or at school, to the more sacred
performances in Greco-Roman and Oriental / Asian plays. In theatre,
costumes appear to 'disguise' the wearer's individuality and transform
him into a different persona or even a 'God'.
Some costumes are associated with religious significance. A religious
head or priest can be recognized by specific clothes, which proclaim
his religious role and authority. Believers and followers of different
religions have distinctive clothes and/or accessories for reasons of
respect, actual or symbolic identification with God and the need to
express those emotions in their mortal existence.
Adornment
Beautification of the self through decoration of clothes or of the body
itself, has been the pre-occupation of humans since ancient times.
Adornment though clothes

. They also discovered methods of crafting the materials like tanning
of hides, weaving dyeing, and printing of fabrics for decoration in
clothing.
History has instances where the desire for adornment occasionally
transcends practical concerns like comfort and wear ability. When
ostentation and exaggeration dominate other factors, the resultant
look may become distinctive but impractical. An example of this is the
shoe called 'Pauline' worn in medieval times. Originating in France,
this shoe extended to such exaggerated lengths that it had to be held
in the hand while walking or else tied back to the ankle with a ribbon
until laws were passed restricting the length of the toe to 6"
commoners, 12" for gentlemen and 24" for nobility and royalty.
In 18th century England, an exaggerated mode of clothing was that of
tight breeches for men which made it difficult for them to even sit
down.
The 19th century Victorian corset created the desirable tiny waist size.
However the constant constriction of the ribcage made even the
simple act of breathing very difficult.

2Scarificationis an indication of status andtribal identification in some
African cultures. Elaborate incisions in a delicate pattern are made in
certain parts of a person's body. The painful incisions must be endured
without any signs of physical distress or pain. Natural skin irritants are
rubbed into the skin which, on healing, leave characteristic scars and
raised pattern-like marks on the face and body that identify the
individual as an adult member of the tribe.
Body Tattooinginvolves a permanent change in body color
based on theinsertion of an indelible dye in the punctured skin.
Tattooing was used by the Thracians to indicate rank. In some
African societies women's foreheads were tattooed so that if
captured by rivals, she could be sold back to her own tribe

Body Paintingwhich includes face paintinghas its roots in
sacred ritual. Girls in some Congolese tribes oil themselves
all over and dust on red powered camwood in order to look
more attractive. Noble ladies of some ancient Chinese
dynasties as well as Japanese 'geisha' girls applied very
heavy face make-up with the powder of ground rice and
white lead. Application of rose petal rouge on cheeks and
center of the lower lip, simulated a tiny-pursued mouth,
considered to be very beautiful. The modern cosmetic
industry thrives and flourishes due to the interest of women
for 'painting' their faces.

•Identification
•Body Paintingwhich includes face paintinghas its roots in sacred ritual.
Girls in some Congolese tribes oil themselves all over and dust on red
powered camwood in order to look more attractive. Noble ladies of
some ancient Chinese dynasties as well as Japanese 'geisha' girls
applied very heavy face make-up with the powder of ground rice and
white lead. Application of rose petal rouge on cheeks and center of the
lower lip, simulated a tiny-pursued mouth, considered to be very
beautiful. The modern cosmetic industry thrives and flourishes due to
the interest of women for 'painting' their faces.
•Clothes are the most visible index of the status of a person
identifying the class, caste and profession.
•Identification of social status
In most societies, people influence advertise their position and
wealth through outer trappings like the choice of clothes, colour
and fabric consumption. Based on the same line of reasoning, in
some civilization complete nudity was considered a lowly
condition, bereft of status. Therefore slaves could be nude since
they were 'non-persons'. In pre-Inca Peru, the Mochia stripped
their prisoners of clothing and therefore of rank and humanity

•Identification of Rank
Clothes also clearly indicate rank and power as in the case of
uniforms of the armed services also used to:
Intimidate or evoke obedience.
Encourage a sense of allegiance, loyalty and identity within the
ranks
BEmitclear signals indicating hierarchy through the design and
number ofbuttons, insignia and ribbons
•Identification of Profession
In contemporary times professional and administrative costumes
distinguish the wearer and imbue him/her with personal or
delegated authority. Examples of this can be seen in the robes
and wigs of a judge or in the uniform of army personnel or
policemen. On the other extreme end of the spectrum, are the
clothes of convicts.
•Identification of marital status
Dress and ornament are also indicating of the social and marital
status of women. Among the YorukTurkis nomads, a girl can
border her silk head cloth with coins to signal that she is ready for
marriage. When betrothed she also wears a white scarf along
with.

•Identification of individual status in a tribe
Costumes also help to identity to special individuals by imposing authority
and instilling a sense of fear and awe in others. For a tribal chieftain, certain
components of the costume single him out of the crowd by expressing his
power and special status. Similarly, a warrior's costume emphasizes his
physical superiority. A tribal shaman wears special clothes, mask and
carries accessories which single him out as a person 'apparently' endowed
with supernatural power to cure or expel evil.
BSlip-on costumemade from one piece of skin or material length, with a
hole forthe head to pass through. Examples of this would be the Roman
paenula, the Medievalhuque and the South American poncho.
BClosed stitched costumewhere the fabric is worn around the body
witharmholes for the sleeves to be attached. This category developed into
the Greek chiton, the Roman tunic, the Medieval chemise.
BOpen stitched costume, worn over layers of inner clothes. Examples of
these arethe Asian caftan and the European overcoat.
BSheath costumefitted/moulded to the body contours. This category also
extendedinto trousers and breeches.
Draped Costumes
Draping is the simplest response to wearing clothes since it has the
inherent flexibility of

•Greek Costume
Ancient Greek and Roman costumes were draped in a
traditional manner. Draped styles of dress were characterized
by the arrangement of large pieces of rectangular, oval or
crescent-shaped fabric which were folded, pleated, pinned or
belted around the body in different ways. This style of dressing
utilized the entire fabric ensuring there was no waste. In spite of
influences from other countries, Greek costumes did not
undergo any major transformation
Greek costume for men
The basic costume was the Chiton, a rectangle of cloth usually
wool. It formed a tunic fastened on the left shoulder leaving the
right arm free or on both shoulders. This could be worn with
one or two belts at the waist. Without a belt this tunic hung
loosely and served as a night garment. When lengthened, it
became a ceremonial or festive costume. It could also be
draped around the body like the Indian shawl.

Greek costume for women
All Greek women wore the Peplos which was essentially a
rectangular shawl with a fibula or brooch/ decorative pin on
the shoulder and was usually open on one side. This open
peplos was usually not belted at the waist. Greek women also
wore the closed peplos by seaming the two free edges of the
fabric together.
•Roman Costume
Roman costume was more class-based than that of the
Greeks and reflected the society's formal distinctions between
its own citizens and outsiders, within a highly organized
system of rules. The civilian costumes of the Romans were
broadly classified into two categories
•War Costumes And Uniforms
The history of mankind has been synonymous with warfare,
which necessitated the use of clothing and accessories
specifically for war. War costumes evolved naturally from the
geographical location and the terrain.

•Techniques of Armour Construction
In several civilizations over the ages across the world,
metallic armour was traditionally used. Irrespective of the
differences in design and type of construction, the armour
was not a single piece but included separate pieces for
protection of different parts of the head and body
•Armour
The armour is central to all forms of traditional battle
uniforms and is mentioned in historical references of
different countries. Several museums across the world have
a section on protective battle gear and weapons.
Armour Accessories
Generally body armour was worn with other items like
helmets, legwear and gauntlets.
_Helmets
The purpose of the helmet was to protect the most vulnerable
parts of the warrior namely the head and face. According to
rank, it was designed to intimidate the opponent by its
impressive structure, height and splendour. The components
were:

Ancient War Costumes
The earliest examples of clothing worn by warriors are found in
Sumerian culture. The soldiers wore a long fringed skirtover
which a wide band of nailed leather re-enforced with metal studs
for protecting the back and chest was thrown over the left
shoulder and hanging down the back
•Japanese war costume
The Samurai armour indicates the prestigious status of the
warrior class of the feudal Japan. Early Samurai armour
and helmets developed in complexity over the centuries
Armour Accessories
BArmarmour
The arm guardsor Bajubandh were worn for protecting the arm, usually with a glove/ gauntlet.
Today the word refers to an item of jewellery worn on the upper arm.
BHelmets
Helmets had decorative elements like dome-shaped fittings, a plume holder, movable nasal guard and/or a
camail (chain mail)to protect the neck at the back and sides. Today helmets are a mandatory requirement
for road safety of motorcycle and car drivers.

•Uniforms During World Wars
Significant differences emerged in the war uniforms before
World War I and those after it.
BAtthe outbreak of World War I armies wore utilitarian,
neutral-coloured outfits.
BTheEnglishaviators of the Royal Flying Corps wore fleece-
lined leather flyingcoats with long
•Influence of War Uniforms on Civilian Clothing
Uniforms exert a strong influence on civilian modes of
dressing. The World War uniforms have influenced 20th
century clothing in different ways:
•Industrial Revolution
Prior to industrialization of fabric production in the 18th
and 19th centuries, the fabric cost was high which
prohibited most people from possessing too many clothes

1.4.1 Mechanical Inventions During Industrial
Revolution
At the beginning of the 18th century, most of the work
related to the textile spinning and weaving woolen
industry was carried out in people's homes.
•Effect of Industrial Revolution on India
India was ceded to Britain by the Treaty of Paris in 1898.
India's economy at this juncture as in ancient times
depended largely on its textiles. Indian cotton and other
specialized textiles were unmatched quality and were
therefore used to trade in spices.
•World War I (1914-1918)
During the war, the absence of men forced women to
take on new roles and responsibilities. Traditional roles
of governess and typist changed

World War II (1939-1945)
The war once again affected the clothing industry as it
did all other facets of life. For a while it seemed to
•Evolution of Modern Indian Fashion
Traditional Indian clothes have had a distinct identity
not only within the country but also globally.
1920s
In the West, the decade called 'Roaring Twenties'
characterized by the 'Flapper' style enhanced the slender
columnar silhouette.
1940s
Austerity measures along with a renewed zeal in
patriotism marked this decade. Mahatma Gandhi's call for
complete independence in the 1940s had the objective of
uniting the entire country and manifested

•Indian Costumes
By and large, ancient Indian garments were draped rather than
stitched, giving each ensemble a distinctive look. Draped apparel
was worn both by men and women. Indian ceremonies from birth,
marriage to death involve the ritual use of newly woven textiles
draped around the body. The saris and dhotis worn today are
similar to the off-the-loom fabrics worn thousands of years ago.
The earliest references to textile production and draped garments
in India, date between 2500 to 2000 BC in the Indus Valley
civilization in the two cities of MohenjoDaro and Harappa. Our
knowledge of early Indian costume is based on the study of
sculpted figures and engraved seals, where both men and women
are depicted wearing unstitched fabrics draped around the body.
The statuette of the 'high priest' wears a patterned shawl with a
formal drape. Other statuettes and engravings are seen in short
draped sarong-like skirts, jewellery and elaborate hairstyles.
Similar garments can also be seen in the later Ajanta cave
paintings where the figures are scantily dressed with a tight sarong
around the waist accentuating the curvaceous forms and a thin
draped shawl or choli on the upper body. The unstitched garment

•Babylonian Chile lower ranks wore simple linen skirts. A typical style was
of the shawl draped under the armpits across the body with the excess
fabric covering the left arm and thrown over the left shoulder leaving the
right shoulder and arm bare. The style almost prefigures the Greek
Himation or Roman Toga two thousand years later.
Assyrian costume
The Assyrians wore either rectangular or semi-circular draped shawls with
the short-sleeve tunic. Another small square or rectangular shawl was
worn like an apron at the back, while the semi-circular shawl was draped
around the torso. The amount of fringe edging also indicated rank.
Egyptian Costume
A characteristic of Egyptian costume was that it covered the
lower body, leaving parts of the upper body bare. Egyptian
clothing was mainly draped and pleated. The basic garment for
men was the schenti which was a single strip of linen wrapped
around the hips, worn by all classes, except for the fact that the
Pharaoh's

OVERVIEW OF FASHION
Understanding Fashion Introduction And Definition :
Fashion has been an integral part of contemporary society. it is an Omni
percent aspect of all lives and is one of the focal topics of the print and
electronic medium television and Internet advertisement and window
display in shop and Mall movies music and modern of entertainment etc.

Generate employment or and facilities payment of salaries to
employees.
Contributes to the national economy through purchases of
material and services as well as well as payment of taxes.
Contributes to the growth of the domestic trade and market in
term of time and money in code on account of the raw
material manufacturing and marketing products creation
innovation as well as promotion marketing within the country.
Creates profit of the company and related industries.
earns foreign exchange for the country through the
international export import Trade.
definition fashion:
McLeod Bernard trace the origin of the word fashion to the
Latin ‘facere’ which means ‘to make’ a or to do this includes
the dual process of marker making and doing

factors influence influencing fashion:
fashion Express the prevailing interest
human motivation and aesthetics in
society it is a vibrant subject incorporating
the interplay of social, cultural,
psychological, political, geographical,
economic ,technological factors.
Dominating events:
Significant occurrence like what are
political events , celebratory, centenary
and cultural events Fashion Week, fashion
awards ceremony, National and
international competitions and games like
Olympic Olympics, Commonwealth game
on IPL Cricket affect the design of the
garments and products.

Influence of celebrities:
film Star, Sports persons, musicians and other with wealth and
power are constantly in the public domain through Highway visibility
conversion social and entertainment media like movies, TV serials,
reality shows interviews and photographs in print media the
dressing style of such celebrities has a significant impact on the
public demand for similar design and brands and the rest by them

Economic factors:
Fashion reflects the Global National state of the economy well
weather. In recession for example during recession issues like value
of money and durability affect the demand of classic items.
Psychological factors:
While at a fundamental level session I compress a wider Lifestyle
including clothes and accessories it affects people at the Deeper
psychological level playing a crucial role of how we view our self and
others .
Social factors:
Fashion emerges as a response to societal influence during a
particular period impacting self-identity and group identity.
i. Dynamic of social groups:
iii. Ethical concerns and practices: the concerns addressed by the
international fashion community regarding social and human issues
are gaining increased improve importance in society and buy
extension in the fashion industry point.

Cultural factors:
Fashion and cultural influence and fuel Each Other through interaction
this is achieved in the following ways.
Reflection of both high culture and popular culture in fashion: High
culture includes appreciation of Arts, literature, music and Customs
weather of one’s own country that of foreign land.

Cultural factors:
Fashion and cultural influence and fuel
Each Other through interaction this is
achieved in the following ways.
Reflection of both high culture and
popular culture in fashion: High
culture includes appreciation of Arts,
literature, music and Customs weather
of one’s own country that of foreign
land.
Expression of gender indicators in
different cultures through clothing
norms: in western culture many
traditional garments form yes
where specifically reserved for one
gender easy trousers for men and
skirt for women.

Political events and personalities:
Political events and personal political personalities affect prevailing
fashion events like war or a cord across society through T shirt print
and slogans expressing solidarity and support for the nation.
historical inspiration: of an historical fashion and Style from
museums achieves design houses in private collections are
researched by designers to identify characteristic style features like
silhouettes, fabrics and colors.
Geographical factors:
History has examples of clothing that developed in concerned with
the geography and weather of the Year.
Spread of Information Technology:
prior to the information technology boom that piece of session
movement across nations was slower the Internet has accelerated
the rate of session change reducing the time from the fashion ramp
to the stories.
Technological advertisement in Textiles:

Key concepts and terminology:
art design and crafts heart is the
process of product of deliberately
arranging elements in a way that
appeals to the sense of emotions. the
term can be used to define a variety of
Creative activities including useful arts
decorative arts live rate Liberal Arts
graphic cards etc.
trends: trends indication that directly or
indirectly effect and characterized of the
look of a session hands are tied transitory
fashion statements fashion is often affected
by seasonal Trends which employee that a
particular style, shelter ,colors, texture etc.
Collection: A collection also called a range
of line, refer to a well-defined and diligent
edited group of clothing or products for a
specific session.

Style: the word style has wearing meaning
according to the contests style also
referred to as signature style of a design
designer or manufacturing brand many
refer to and aesthetics sensibility that
distinguishes the Di Signage company from
other in a similar apparel product category.
Haute couture and pret a porter: haute
couture refers to high fashion created by
designers known as cow try guys counter
papa.
Avant grade fashion: Avant grade refer to
the advance grade or when grade of art
and culture which differentiates in from
the mainstream.

Mass fashion knock off and Limited fashion: mass or volume
fashion as the name suggested it widely available in stores
nationwide. These designs are available in a variety of colors
ways and sizes.
Classics and Fads: classic are enduring styles that do not
become obsolete; instead reaching a plateau of acceptance
continuing for a long period of time.
Movement and direction of fashion: spreads in different
directions through different media some examples are print
media easy magazines newspapers and catalogues electronic
media like fashion television and their websites point fashion
forecasting.
fashion forecasting :is a complex activity where Research
and Analysis of previous fashion trends help in identification
of future trends.
pendulum swing: fashion is like a pendulum that swings
from one end to another a particular trend become outdated
when there is no future creative interpretation of the style .

fashion cycles: fashion is transient and evolutionary in nature It
responds to change in the soul socio cultural you by introducing
new style send by commercial interest of the fashion industry
which play an important role in anticipation and encouraging
new fashion.

cycle within cycle: to capitalize on and get
to the demand of a particular style during
the popularity of and acceptance speech
different design interpretation and variation
in term of s i l h o u e t t e color material
trains etc.
interrupted circle: sometime
manufacturers and retailers decide to stop
the product production of specific design
style in anticipation of change in levels of
popularity preference session or socio
economic political events like economic
recession over which result in a and
interrupted cycle.
Recurring cycle: some styles are so popular
that even after the trans has Run its course
and fades away it resurface through design
re-interpretation in term of silhouette,
fabric or detail.

theories of fashion movement: As discussed earlier changes in the
direction of fashion are dependent on Trends. often there are
questions on where and how Trends originated.
Trickledown theory: fashion history shows the royalty and nobility by
virtue of their birth wealth and status where the social Elite at the top
of the pyramid like social structure.
trickle up or bubble up theory: this theory States the trend
inspirations do not necessarily start from the elite class but can start
from the masses
Trickle across theory: the trick liya crow story is also
referred to as the mass market theory .
consumer segmentation: consumer segmentation attempts to
identify clusters of people who share characteristics usually in
the form of demographics and Lifestyle attitude and behavior.
consumers who share characteristics from group called
cohorts.

fashion motivators: they play a role in motivating consumers to
adopt new fashions:
they can be more stars models or celebrity professionals who
endorse fashion products and brands which are motivation factors
for increased purchasing patterns across all social starta.
International trade in fashion: international trade also called Global
trade refers to any exchange of goods in involving two or more
countries international trade is about the relationships among
Nations and cultures in the manufacturing and distribution of
products.
Regulatory bodies in fashion and textile sector : the textile industry
in India is one of the leading textile industries in the world
incorporating textile manufacturing and export.
advisory border: these operate under the ages of the ministry of
textile and include.
all India Handloom board
India handicraft board
all India power loom board
.

fashion designer: A designer could be working in an export house
buying house in corporate retail company or could be an
entrepreneur. He/ she could be specialized in clothing of for men
women and children.
Fashion Technologies: A garment Technologist is the interface
between the designer the sample product prototype and final
fashion collection.
fashion merchandiser:Line planning is an integral creative and
commercial activity in the fashion industry which involves learning
and creating a range of merchandise for the next session.
introduction
India is a country which reached heritage of traditional textile like
Banarasi brocade, kanjeevaram silk , baluchari silk, Chanderi,
Maheshwari saree, jamdani cotton sarees, Kashmiri woolen shawls to
name a few . Each type of indian textile fibers by definition at Excel
fiber is a unit of matter which is usually at least 100 times longer to its
thickness the basic unit of all.

textile fibres: by definition a taxtile fiber is a unit of matter which is usually at
least 100 times longer to its thickness.
Classification of textile fibers: chemical composition the classification of
textile fiber. Fibers
Natural Manmade
Cellulosic
Protein
Mineral
Cellulosic
Synthetic
Protein
Metallic
Mineral
natural fibers: natural fiber obtained from the natural resources like
plant vegetable animal hair and natural minerals fibers from
vegetable animal hair and natural minerals fiber from vegetable and
plants origin are generally cellulosic in chemical composition .
cotton: cotton fiber is obtained from the seed hair of cotton it is
cellulosic in nature therefore on burning emits the smell of burning
paper .

jute: jute fibre is obtained from the stem of
the jute plant through grows in the belt of gang
gents Delta mainly in the states of West Bengal
Assam and Bihar in India.
Flax: the flax fiber is think regular fiber with a
subject luster .the color of the fiber varies from
light brown to crazy blonde .
wool : wool is the fiber obtained from the
fleece of domesticated ship it is a natural
protein fiber.
Manmade fiber :manmade fiber are not found
in nature but r s span from polymer like
cellulose synthetic polymer metallic compound
etc.
viscosity rayon: viscosity one is a manmade
generated cellulosic fiber the fiber r s sperm
from a viscous solution of alkali cellulose.

Weaving: weaving is the process of interlacement to nsets of
yarn which are perpendicular to one another.
Weaving process: yarn from the wrap beam passes over the back
rest and comes through the Drop wires to the health .which are
responsible for separating the web for the purpose of shared
formation .
wave structures: the number of waves structures that can be
produced in practically unlimited.
plane waves: Plain waves is the simplest interlacing pattern that
can be produced it is produced by alternatively lifting and
lowering one warp thread across one Weft thread. Full wave at
Wave is a wave that repeats on three or more ends and pics and
produce diagonal lines on the face of a fabric .
stain and sateen weave: in Britain stain is a web based view in
which the binding points are arranged to produce a smooth fabric
surface free from Civil Lines.
Dying: dying is the process of coloration of textile materials by
amazing them in an aqueous solution of dye.

Class of dye Fibers which can be dyed
Direct dyes Man –made & natural cellulosic fiber
Acid dyes(anionic dyes) Natural protein fibers(silk, wool), nylon fibers
Basic dyes(cationic dyes) Acrylic , mod acrylic fibers
Disperse dyes Polyester, nylon, acrylic, cellulose acetate
Reactive dyes Cellulosic & protein fibers(cotton & silk)
Mordant dyes Wool, silk(natural protein fibers)
Metal- complex dyes Wool, silk(natural protein fibers)
Sulphur dyes Natural & mad-made cellulosic fibres
Vat dyes Cellulosic fibre
Table: classes of synthetic dyes

Printing: printing is the process of application
of colorant to a specific area of the fabric
based on the design of the print.
method of printing: Printer can be done using
different methods. the different methods of
printing are presented in the section.
block printing :block printing is one of the
traditional style of painting in which wooden
blocks are curved according to the design.
Screen printing: screen printing a screen is first
prepared using a smash the area through which
the print paste as per the print design.
Transfer printing :transfer printing is the process
of transferring an Image to Fabric by the process
of sublimation transfer.
Digital Printing: Digital Printing is the latest
advancement in the method of printing in which
digital inkjet printing machine are used to print
the design of on the fabric.

DESIGN FUNDAMENTALS
Design, designer and design process
Everything we see, touch and use is either man made or natural. The
shape of the sun, the clouds, the hills, the trees, flowers, everything
are nature.Design and creativity creativity and originality does matter
it is important but not at the expense of gur design different and bold
design is about a fresh look a unique and a usual interpretation point
good design represents a need for the familiar while still being
unique.
element of design: in our day to day life we experience design intent in
everything around us presence of specific factors which makes the
visual experience pledging on on pledging are identified as element
and principles of design.
Point: point is the simplest element of design which is the put into a
black space in terms and inactive space into the visually creative space.
Line: line is another element of design characterized as a mark with
length and direction created by joining points across a surface.
Shape: when a line crosses itself or intersect with other lines forming
and enclosed and closed space ship is formed shape can be divided in

silk :silk is a natural protein element obtained from the cocoons of
the silk worm. The silk is is removed from the cocoons of the silk
worm to give continuous length of thread which is known as Silk
filament.
polyester: polyester is manmade synthetic filament or staple fiber
made from reaction between an alcohol and an acid.
Nylon: is a polyimide man made filament of fiber the nylon filament
fibers are known for the it's good strength and excellent abrasion
resistance.
Acrylic: Acrylic filament fiber is span from acrylonitrile polymer. In
mod acrylic fibers a copolymer is also used along with acrylonitrile.
high performance fibre: apart from the conversation fiber that
have been discussed in their chapter a number of high
performance fiber have been developed and commercialized.
Yarns: the fiber is converted to a Yarn for weaving of knitting.
Individual fiber are made parallel to one another using a series of
machines in a spinning unit then the parallel stands of fibre RR
drafted and twisted together to form .

Weaving: weaving is the process of
interlacement to nsets of yarn which are
perpendicular to one another.
Weaving process: yarn from the wrap beam
passes over the back rest and comes through
the Drop wires to the health .which are
responsible for separating the web for the
purpose of shared formation .
wave structures: the number of waves structures
that can be produced in practically unlimited.
plane waves: Plain waves is the simplest
interlacing pattern that can be produced it is
produced by alternatively lifting and lowering one
warp thread across one Weft thread. Full wave at
Wave is a wave that repeats on three or more ends
and pics and produce lines on the face of a fabric .
stain and sateen weave: in Britain stain is a web
based view in which the binding points are
arranged to produce a smooth fabric surface free
from Civil Lines.

DESIGN FUNDAMENTALS
Design, designer and design process
Everything we see, touch and use is either man made or natural.
The shape of the sun, the clouds, the

The design process: Good design does not assemble or decorate
arbitrary designing is a conscious
element of design: in our day to day life we experience design intent
in everything around us presence of specific factors which makes the
visual experience pledging on on pledging are identified as element
and principles of design.
Point: point is the simplest element of design which is the put into a
black space in terms and inactive space into the visually creative
space.
Line: line is another element of design characterized as a mark with
length and direction created by joining points across a surface.
Shape: when a line crosses itself or intersect with other lines
forming and enclosed and closed space ship is formed shape can be
divided in three categories based on their structure.
•organic shapes
•geometric shapes
•abstract shapes point
Texture :texture relates to the physical makeup of a given form it
refers to surface that have more than two dimensions there by
enhancing the surface quality .

Color theory and psychology of colors : color is the most important
element of design as whatever we see will not talk any emotions in
the absence of colors it is a very effective and powerful tool for
visual communication of concepts shape.
Color theory :the phrase system:
primary colors :primary colors cannot be formed by mixing any
combination of other Colors The three primary colors red blue
yellow.
Secondary coloure: they are achieved by mixing any two primary
colours in equal proportion they are Orange red plus yellow green
yellow + blue and violet red + blue .
tertiary colour: they are achieved by mixing one primary and one
secondary colour in equal proportion point colour schemes triadic.
colour scheme:
Triadic colour scheme:any three colours with a balance triangular
relationship collectively make Triadic Scheme.
Complimentary colour scheme: complementary colors are any two
colors, which are situated directly opposite each other.
colour scheme: spread colour scheme any three colours with a
balanced triangular relationship correctly make predict colour
scheme

color palette: the color plate it is a group of choosing colours
used in different combination to create a particular design on
a set of designs under one collection.
colour psychology: the meaning of colour applies to many
area of design colour sends messages and expresses feeling .
white: white is the colour of Heaven 1 white silence peace
purity and the the presence of God point
black:is powerful and empowering in the world of fashion it is
a colour most won in Cocktail parties and fashion shows.
Red symbolise the hurt the strong willed and strong emotions
.
yellow instantly connected to the world Sun sparkling warm
and energy.
Blue is the colour of the claims Sky deep night sky Clear Blue
Water and the deep ocean
green is the most shooting colour of the eye there are
numerous shades of green we see in nature.
Orange Is the optimistic

Violet is associated with words like medical blooming mysterious
Alluri and feminine .
principle of design :after the family session with the basic
elements of design it is important to know how to utilise them.
Rhythm: there is a profound Rhythm visible in nature and life in
walking running and breathing in the session phase of moon tide
of the sea voice of the animal bird and birds and insects.
Balance: balance relates to the visual weight of elements within a
design. It is defined as harmonious relationship between the
positive and negative space of a design .
symmetrical balance: these balance occurs when the visual
weight of a composition is equally distributed on both sides of
vertical axis or horizontal axis of dialogue diagonal axis in a
design.
symmetrical balance: in this case the axis of symmetry is not
present in the design but the weight of a composition appear to
be evenly distributed.

Emphasize: the presence of
emphasize community wearing
degree of visual dominance in a
design the other word visual weight
of the design is unevenly distributed
in a manner that a particular
position of the design grabs more
attention than the rest.
Contrast: contrast is defined as a
juxtaposition of opposing elements
in a design presence of contrast
brings more clarity in
communication of intended design
concept.

POLYCHROMTIC
COLOUR SCHEM
MONOCCHRROM
AATIC COLOUR
SCHEME

ADHROMATIC
COLOUR SCHEME
COLOUR WHEEL

ANALOGOUS
COLOUR SCHEME
ACCENTED
COLOUR SCHEME

COREL DRAW BASICS
This chapter introduces you to the corel
draw workspace and provides an
overview of basic tasks such starting and
viewing documents modifying and
organizing objects and creating page
layouts .additional topics include sharing
work and setting preferences .as you
learn to use corel draw

DRAPING
BY draping cutting and pinning fabric on
the model form .the designer develops
ideas and creates patterns for sample
garments . Although most draping is done
in muslin .the designer must keep in mind
the properties of the fabric to be used for
the finished garment muslin is plain weave
fabric of unfinished cotton .

WRAP BODICE BLOCK FRONT AND
SEAID

YOKE WITH NEACK AND PEGGED SKIRT
FRONT SEAID AND BACK

PLEATED BODICE AND CIRCULAR SKIRT
FRONT SEADI AND BACK

PRINCESS BODICE AND YOKE SKIRT

WRAP BODICE AND GEDERS
SKIRT FRONT SEAID AND BACK

BASIC BODICE AND SAIRT FRONT SEAID
BACK

FRANCH DART AND FLARED SKIRT

YOKE BODICE AND BOX PLEATED
SKIRT FRONT SEAID AND BACK

ARMHOLE DART AND BOX PLEATED SKIRT

Embroidery is the embellishment
of fabric enriching it with needle
and thread . It has also been
referred to as “ Painting with the
needle” The history of fabric
decoration takes us to the
prehistoric times. Embroidery is
most oftenused on caps, hats,
coats, blankets, dress shirts.
Embroidery has always
EMBROIDERY

Basic Stitch Embroidery
Cut Work
Applique Work

Basic Stitch Embroidery
Ribbon Work

Kantha Embroidery
A kantha is rich multicolored
embroidery from west Bengal.
It is done with simple running
stitch. Rural women in Bengal
typically use discarded saris,
dhotis, and cloth and layer then
with stitches to make a quilt,
light blanket shawls. General
motifs used in kantha
embroidery are human figures,
animal, floral symbols, fishes
and trees.

Gujarati Embroidery
Embroidery from the
Saurashtra and kutch regions in
Gujarat is not only famous but
also versatile. There are plenty
of stitches used to beautify the
product. Abhala is the
embroidery where small round
pieces of mirrors are fixed on to
the fabric using buttonhole
stitch. Geometrical motifs are
fabricated with multicolored
fabric fabric pieces leading to
patch work effect.

Phulkari Embroidery
Phulkari is a rural tradition art of
crafting embroidered odhni
(head drape or shawl) used by
women in Punjab, literally means
“ flower work”.
“ PHUL” Means flower and
“KARI” means wok. Also known
as “ Gulkari” . A very intricate
needle work, along with bright
colored threads mainly red,
orange, blue, green etc.

Kashida Embroidery
The word Kashmir can be
splinted as ‘kas’ means water
channel and Mir refers to
mountain. Jammu and Kashmir is
known for its beauty. The locality
is embedded with enchanting
beautiful and inexhaustible flora
and fauna, lakes, garden of
perpetual spring, abundance of
natural colour all around.
The best known of Indian
embroidery is the kashida of
Kashmir and its carpet industry.
Kashida on Kashmir shawls are
recognized for their beauty,
colour, motifs, artistic
appearance and texture.

Kasuti Embroidery
Kasuti is a world famous
embroidery of Karnataka state
earlier was known as Mysore
state, Kasuti embroidery speaks
about the people of Karnataka
their traditions, customs and
professions.
Stitches in kasuti are always
vertical, horizontal and
diagonal. The main Specialty of
this embroidery is that never
the design is traced in the
material to be embroidered
and the embroidery starts
without knotting thread but
with a tiny back stitch. Kasuti is
done always by counting the
threads.

Garment construction to method
FLAT PATTERN METHOD
Is a method where in body or dress from measurements
are taken for developing pattern
The basic block includesease allowance which allows the
body to perform a variety of normal body functions
requiring movement of various body parts
The method is logical and easy to understand .
DRAPING METHOD
IS the oldest pattrn making method and is generally regarded
as a creative approach .Thfabric may conform to the basic shap
of the form or be arranged artisticallyin folds fora specific
design .

FABRICK
MENIPLESN AND
DART
MENIPLESHON

COTTON SILK FABRIC
BUTTONS
COTTON SILK THREAD

Fashion Designer
Anjali Seervi

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
BASIC STICHES

CASE STUDY
We have to design a dress for a client and
she is a college girl, she have to attend a
day party so, she want a dress without
work on it. She is between 15-20 age
group.

Anjali Seervi,Fashion Design Student NSQF Level -5

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Anjali Seervi,Fashion Design Student NSQF Level -5