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ACONCAGUA
(The Stone Sentinel) – 22,841 ft.
IMG Expedition -- Traverse
Vacas Valley Route
Jan 31 – Feb 19, 2010
Why Aconcagua?
Climbs
1994
1995
1996
1999
2001
2001
2002
2004
2005
2005
2007
2008
2010
2011

-

Mt Shasta, CA,
Mt Rainier, WA,
Mt Whitney, CA,
Kilimanjaro, Africa,
Kala Patthar, Nepal,
Everest BC, Nepal,
Elbrus, Russia,
Orizaba, Mexico,
Illiniza Norte, Ecuador,
Cotapaxi, Ecuador,
Guagua Pichincha, Ecu
Denali, Alaska
Aconcagua, Argentina
Cho Oyu, Nepal

14,179 ft. + 9
14,410 ft.
14,505 ft. + 9
19,340 ft.
18,192 ft.
~18,000 ft.
18,510 ft.
18,697 ft.
16,785 ft.
19,347 ft.
15,696 ft.
20,320 ft.
22,840 ft.
26,906 ft. ????? 6th highest
Participating in an Expedition
What does it take?









Desire
Commitment
Preparation – Physical, Emotional, Spiritual, Gear, Nutrition
Attitude
Effort
Perseverance – Trust
Awareness – Body, Mountain, Weather
Organization
Effort
22,841’

X

16 =

Mt
Shasta
14,187’
Organization









Everything has a place
Know where it is at all times
When not in use put it back
Use tent pockets to organize while in tent
Use vestibule for boots, gaiters, etc.
Use top of pack for food, water, and jacket
Use pockets for camera, lip ice, food
Etc.
Organization cont.






Select a tent pocket for headlamp, diary,
glasses, trash, earplugs, trash, clock
As it gets colder decide what you want in your
sleeping bag – socks, jacket, boot liners, etc.
Keep similar things together – toilet articles,
utensils, sun articles
Aconcagua – Before the Climb
Shopping




Mike and Greg left two days early to get
food.
Brought some food with that is not
available in Mendoza - bacon.
Sac to
LA to
Lima to
Santiago to
Mendoza
24+hrs
Our Hotel


Nutribara
Mendoza, Argentina
To
Permit
Office
The Permit - $400
Hurry up and wait
Expedition Stuff ?
One ton of stuff
13 people
Community Gear







Tents
Stoves
Pots and pans
Tables and chairs
Food
Toilet seat
Personal Gear










d
d

Double plastic boots
Upper and lower layers
Head/hands
Sleeping
Back pack
Sun
Toiletries/meds
Power gels/food
Optional items

D
D
D
D
d
To the Mountain
Tuesday Feb 2
X
Hotel in Penitentes
The Climb
X
XHigh camp

X
XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
The Team
Day 1 - Wed, Feb 3



7800’ to 9400’ 5 hours
Dust on everything
X
XHigh camp

X
XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

9,400’

X
X
X 7,800’
Mule help
Day 2 – Thur, Feb 4




7am, breakfast French toast and bacon
Stark wilderness
9,400’ to camp at 11,500’
X
XHigh camp

X
XPlaza

X

11,500’

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Dinner salad and burritos
Day 3 – Fri, Feb 5





6am, breakfast of granola and yogurt
Forded river. Very cold and painful.
To base camp at 13,500’
Very windy
X
XHigh camp

X
XPlaza

X
13,500’

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Stream crossing
Do Not Sit
Dinner of salad, pasta and peaches
Day 4 - Sat Feb 6
Rest day





8am breakfast of pancakes and bacon
Sorted gear
Got group gear
Checked by doc
Dinner salad and pasta
Day 5 – Sun Feb 7
Carry to 16,200’





7am breakfast of eggs and bacon
Snowing, very beautiful
Special treat of penitentes
Back down to bc about 4pm
X
XHigh camp

X

16,200’

XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Camp site tomorrow
Scree
Dinner of soup, chicken quesadillas and peaches.
Super bowl Sunday
Day 6 – Mon Feb 8
Move day to 16,200’






No sleep
Breakfast of pancakes, bacon, juice,
granola
Wind died
Tough day 5-1/2 hours to Camp 1, 16,200’
X
XHigh camp

X

16,200’

XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Doing it all over again
Dinner of burritos
Bed about 8pm
Toilet seat
View
Day 7 – Tues Feb 9
Carry day to 18,000’







7am breakfast of oatmeal and cream of
wheat
Great stars last night
Lots of scree
Wind knocked me around
Back about 3pm
X
XHigh camp

18,000’’

X
XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Back down
Dinner of mashed potatoes,
chicken and butter
Bed 7:30pm, cold
Keeping organized
Day 8 – Wed Feb 10
Move day to 18,000’




No sleep. In tent for 12 hours
7am breakfast of bagels and bacon
Got to Camp 2 about 2:30pm, 18,000’
X
XHigh camp

18,000’’

X
XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Hot drinks before dinner
Dinner of soup, mac, sauce
and sausage
Bed 8:30pm
Day 9 – Thur Feb 11
Carry day to 19,200’






8:30am sun just coming up
No sleep breakfast of millet/granola
Half scree half snow
Left 10:30 back 3:30
Cashed at 19,200’
5:30 dinner of chicken quesadillas and Oreos
Day 10 – Fri Feb 12
Rest day at 18,000’









No sleep
Got some diamox
Breakfast of bagels and bacon and breakfast
bars
Tent all day
Rice soup for lunch
Really cold
Dinner of pasta and tomato sauce
7pm bed
Day 11 – Sat Feb 13
Move day to high camp







8:30 am
Still not getting enough O2
Breakfast of oatmeal/cream of wheat and
breakfast bar
Very very windy and cold
Got to high camp about 2pm – 19,200’
X
19,200’

XHigh camp

X
XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Fierce wind – another team lost a tent
Organize organize organize
Dinner of mashed potatoes, butter and bacon
Bed early
Day 12 – Sun Feb 14
Summit day






5:30 am start
Very very cold and windy
Every piece of clothing on
Long grueling climb, crampons all the way
6 breaks up 3 down
X
XHigh camp

X
XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

Su
m

m
it

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Canaleta
conduit
12 hours round trip
Dinner of rice and
chicken delivered to tent
Day 13 – Mon Feb 15
Down climb




Late start, little before noon
Down to base camp about 4pm
Very steep, very loose scree
X
XHigh camp

X
XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

X
X
X 7,800’
Mike ok
Dinner was “steak” sandwich
Day 14
Feb 16






Walk out from base camp to road 18 miles
Check out at Ranger Station
14,500 to 7500’
With just fanny pack
Back to Mendosa
X

X
XHigh camp

XPlaza

X

Argentina

XPlaza

de Mulas

X

End

X
X
X 7,800’
Done





Rest day 2/17
Celebration dinner 2/18
Leave for home 2/19
Back Home 2/20

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Climbing Aconcagua, Argentina 2010

Editor's Notes

  1. Body – Energy level, Hydration, Temperature, Function, Wellness, Hygiene Mountain – Rock fall, Footing, Terrain, Ice, Snow Weather – Temperature, Clouds, Sun, Forecast
  2. Greg, Mike, Jim, Tye, Ann, Mike, Mike, Martin’, Larry Tim, Mark, Bob, Ian