Biju Sukumaran visits his ancestral home in Kerala, India to seek help from Vedic priests. An astrologer tells him he is carrying three curses from a past life - from a teacher preventing practical application of knowledge, a woman causing love problems, and blocked vital energy. To lift the curses, Biju hires two priests to perform a 15-hour ceremony involving throwing symbolic objects into a river. He travels with his family to participate in the ceremony in hopes of improving his life challenges.

1. My s t i c al e s c ape
45
Told that he is carrying three curses from a prior life,
Biju Sukumaran visits his ancestral home on a quest
to find his roots and secure the aid of Vedic priests
photography Radhika Raj
Kathakali performer
m ay-j u n t i g e r t a l e s

2. My s t i c al e s c ape
Lepakshi dolls Painted mural
After a great deal of translation, the astrologer
informed me that the first curse was from a
teacher and was preventing me from using my
theoretical knowledge for practical gain
the meaning in the casting of seashells claimed he knew. He predicted that this pain
and generally channelled the divine. For would move upwards, eventually causing
three hours, seated on the floor of his bare shoulder problems. The cure was a 15-hour
workspace and surreptitiously stretching ceremony to appease the angry individuals
my cramping legs, I was told of the sources whom I had offended, albeit in a past life.
of the problems I had experienced over the My family, the Nair clan, has close ties to
past year and of the good fortune ahead. I the priestly caste and we were able to hire
was left with reason for optimism but there two priests I required to be able to complete
was a catch: I was cursed. the ceremony, on short notice.
After a great deal of translation, the I’m on the road by mid-afternoon,
astrologer informed me that the first curse navigating the bumpy, rubber tree-shaded
was from a teacher and was preventing roads in my uncle’s car. We pause to
me from using my theoretical knowledge ceremonially throw a small log and two
for practical gain. The others were from a coconuts – which the priests ritualistically
woman, cursing me with problems of love imbued an hour earlier with the negative
and a blockage in my prana, the vital force energy in my life – into a local river. Still in
I
that affects energy flow. I have long suffered mundu, the traditional sarong banded in gold,
t’s 5am and my father, looking from lower-back pain, a fact the astrologer we wade into the slowly flowing currents.
utterly at home in a white, Later, we are caught in traffic as a religious
sarong-like mundu and chest parade makes its way across the road.
cloth, has clearly made the Elephants and parasol-bearing devotees
transition from American to raise dust in the sweltering heat as the sound
46 Indian. Even in the pre-dawn of trumpets combines with the honking of
47
darkness, the Hindu temple horns by impatient auto rickshaw drivers.
where we’re standing before The bright colours of the saffron robes and
two ash-marked priests is aglow, lit by a flowered deities make for a stark contrast to
sacrificial fire fed by sticks dipped in ghee the uniform green and brown of the jungle, an
(a butter typically used in Indian cooking). Shrine to local diety ever-present polarity in Kerala.
I wear my own traditional garb awkwardly, This sacred chaos is an outward sign of
but the opening ceremonies have begun Kerala’s religious diversity. After the landing
and there’s a long way to go. Apparently, Indian dance-drama is best known for its of Vasco de Gama in Kozhikode in 1498, the
I’ve been cursed and alleviating the effects colourful make-up and costumes, as well as Portuguese were surprised to find a large
of karma is a drawn-out process. precise body movements in tune to music. Christian population here, whose ancestors
Clad in black, the priests – both As omnipresent as Kerala’s priests are Kathakali performer are believed to have arrived in Kerala in 52
applies his makeup
marked with whorls of colour designating its astrologers, seers of the future typically AD with the Apostle Thomas. Buddhism,
their spiritual lineage – move with employed by the curious or the concerned.
practiced efficiency. Nambudiris are an For a price, your future can be foretold
old Brahmanic line particular to Kerala. in varying degrees of detail. Three days Idol of Lingam
They are scrupulously orthodox. Their before my ritual cleansing, I had grudgingly
The art of
painstaking devotion to Vedic tradition (a agreed to pay a visit to an astrologer
Kathakali
religion pre-dating Hinduism) has given in Kadalundi, a nearby village in the
India’s southern state of Kerala
them a unique status. Thanks to them, Kozhikode district of Kerala. The astrologer
is synonymous with the dance
ancient Vedic rituals that are long extinct was famous for his skill at jyotish, Vedic photography Radhika Raj drama of Kathakali or “story
elsewhere live on in Kerala. astrology. He claimed Bollywood stars as play”. The ancient art form which
In a place where everyday life is infused clients and was known for his accuracy. dates back to the 17th century
with ritual and tradition, priests are both I was sceptical, but went anyway. relies on elaborate make-up which
resembles a mask and colourful
consummate businessmen and repositories After climbing the narrow stairs to his
costumes, generally worn by
of mystical lore. Kerala abounds with shops waiting hall, I saw another family nervously
men, to portray religious stories.
specialising in the implements of ritual: awaiting divine revelation. When my turn Elaborate hand gestures and
clarified butter, camphor and incense. And came, the astrologer wasted no time. He classical-style Indian music also
the region’s romance is captured in the consulted charts based on the positions accompany each performance.
green faces of its Kathakali characters whose of the constellations at my birth, read
t i g e r t a l e s m ay-j u n m ay-j u n t i g e r t a l e s

3. My s t i c al e s c ape
Practitioners of
the martial art of
kalaripayattu
Jainism and many forms of Hinduism have Although swords are no longer in style and Martial Arts in Trivandrum, teaches guests
also flourished in Kerala at various times. families now eschew traditional theravadu what students might have learned ages
Clan traditions also speak loudly in (communal clan strongholds) in favour ago. Overgrown forest greenery surrounds
Kerala. While the Nambudiris are famed of apartments, some traditions remain. the buildings while the spicy aroma of
for their devotions, my family’s clan – the Well-kept theravadu, with a central inner wild peppercorn plants permeates the air.
Nairs – formed the military backbone of courtyard, a sacred grove for serpents Behind the ashram’s temple – dedicated to
local dynasties. The Nairs were known for and a pond for bathing, give visitors a taste the god Hanuman – and the cottage-style
their martial prowess, best exemplified in of classical Keralan architecture. Family dormitories is a large courtyard. This is
the martial art, kalarippayattu, in which names are passed on matrilineally and the training ground where students learn
49
acrobatic skills and unique weapons are eldest daughters often inherit land. Strong the series of fighting stances that are the
used. The Nairs were also known for their matriarchs are the norm in Kerala, flouting building blocks of kalarippayattu.
one-of-a-kind traditions, such as the the status quo in this male-dominated The founder of the school, Guru
worship of snakes, and their matrilineal country. Balachandran, is one of the few surviving
family structure. Feudal lords in medieval Training centres of kalarippayattu, masters of kalarippayattu and is also of Nair
Kerala, their power waned with the coming offering stays ranging from a few months descent. The school is a way of preserving
of the priests, and later the British, who to years, can be found in many major cities. the ancient art form by passing it on to new
outlawed many of the old practices. One such facility, the Indian School of generations. Beginners and experts are
schooled in both armed and unarmed forms
Kerala is known for the practice of Ayurveda, of the martial art. The rigorous training
programme demands that students master
traditional Indian medicine that calls for the use of
balance, movement and coordination
massage and oils to treat patients holistically before tackling weapon-specific techniques.
Among its many delights, Kerala is
also known for the practice of Ayurveda,
traditional Indian medicine that deploys
a number of disciplines including yoga,
meditation, exercise and massage. While
tourism in the state is modest, many
retreats have sprung up where reputable
practitioners ply their trade in lavish, spa-
like facilities attached to high-end hotels.
photography Radhika Raj
One wing of the Indian School of Martial
Arts, dense with the scent of aromatic
oils and crushed spices, is devoted to the
healing arts. The centre offers three- to 21-
day healing sessions to help visitors detox,
An Ayurvedic centre meditate and restore vital energy.
The nearby Rasa Ayurveda is a women’s
m ay-j u n t i g e r t a l e s

4. WHERE TO STAY
* Paradise Gardens Beach
Resort & Ayurveda
With each of its private bungalows
overlooking turquoise waters and lush
gardens, this resort truly lives up to
its name. Well-ventilated rooms are
naturally air-conditioned and private
terraces offer secluded beach views.
The on-site Ayurvedic centre has a
wide range of treatments and the
resort hosts exclusive music, dance,
and martial arts performances. Rates
range from S$126 to S$250 per night.
Karikathikuzhi Beach, Trivandrum,
South of Kovalam, tel: +91 (0)471 226
8304, www.paradise-gardens.de
View of Kadavu resorts
WHAT TO EAT
* Kalavara Family Restaurant
retreat seeking to bring western and With a wonderful rooftop dining
Indian women together through traditional area and an easy-to-find location
on Press Road, Kalavara Family
Ayurvedic medicine. A stay at Rasa Ayurveda
Restaurant is a great place to
offers the chance to experience Ayurvedic sample a local fish curry or biryani,
cuisine, personalised herbal treatments a spiced rice dish. Be sure to ask for
and relax in the sprawling gardens or library. a non-spicy version of your order,
Temples abound in Kerala and their as southern Indian cuisine is known
for its burn.
architecture is distinct from that of
Kalavara Family Restaurant
temples in Northern India. The Sree Press Road, Pulimoodu
Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Trivandrum, Thiruvananthapuram 695001
50 dedicated to Vishnu, is among the best- Street scene +91-471-2333102
known in the state. Considered to be one
WHAT TO DO
of the 108 holiest temples of Vishnu, it
houses a statue of the god reclining on a
packed stores are easy on the pocketbook.
As my long day of rituals draws to a
* Indian School of Martial Arts
This martial arts training centre
hooded snake. Smaller temples scattered close, my passion for Kerala is renewed. To offers classes in both kalarippayattu
throughout the state bustle with activity. enter is to drop all preconceived notions, and Ayurvedic healing. Students
Visitors should remember that these are to occupy a place where dualities fall to the enjoy the opportunity to stay in
private cottages while learning the
holy places, and though all are open to the wayside. Kerala is not just stunning views
healing arts, practising martial arts
public, only Hindus are allowed inside the and colourful images, but is a place where and experiencing traditional Vedic
temples. Jostling is common as impatient mythology and history live on. ceremonies. The centre has played
pilgrims attempt to check off every last Are the curses gone? Did they ever host to many international students
auspicious destination on their lists. exist? My love life, pragmatic abilities and and has English-speaking staff
members. Contact the school for
Indeed, it’s worth bearing in mind that back pain seem, for now, in good hands.
prices and availability. Parusuvaikal,
religion infuses every aspect of daily life And Kerala, with its mysticism, seers and Thiruvananthapuram, tel: +91 (0)471
here. Trivandrum’s Chalai Bazaar is no priests, will always be there in case other 223 2686, www.kalari.in
exception. A riot of red, green, saffron curses crop up. The point for me was the
and black spices in gigantic pots, vibrant journey, to learn more about this narrow
Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple
displays of floral offerings and burlap state by the sea, with its coconut trees, its
Considered one of the holiest
sacks stuffed with hot peppers and gods and its unique traditions.
sites for Hindus in Kerala, the Sree
fresh vegetables make for a memorable Back at the temple, the priests have Padmanabhaswamy Temple is
experience. The strident shouts of traders once again lit the fire pit and smoke from dedicated to Vishnu. Known for its
in the market fight for attention with the the incense hangs heavily in the still air. My seven-storey stone tower, a prime
pungent smell of spices, a reminder of what father is still dressed in a mundu, and mine, example of Kerala-style architecture,
photography Radhika Raj
the temple is always bustling.
first attracted Europeans to India. always caught halfway between slipping off
Only Hindus are allowed inside the
A large red gate marks the entrance and pinching too tight is, at the end of the temple proper, but visitors can tour
to Connemara, another of Trivandrum’s day, more a part of me. the grounds. Mathilakom Office,
bustling markets. Vendors tout everything East Fort, Thiruvananthapuram,
from household goods to fabrics, livestock Tiger Airways flies to Trivandrum tel: +91 (0)471 245 0233, www.
from Singapore. Book your flights at sreepadmanabhaswamytemple.com
and locally grown bananas. Best of all, the
www.tigerairways.com
goods found in the narrow aisles of tightly
t i g e r t a l e s m ay-j u n