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Your First
Month
with Bees
Tools needed to work bees
You will find a number of
items in bee catalogs that
can be considered tools to
use when working bees.
However, you will need
only two:
 A smoker
 A hive tool
Reasons for absconding (bees left, not a “dead-out”):
– extra queen shaken in with bees when package made
– robbing/lack of food
– screened bottom boards (too much ventilation,
decreased retention of queen pheromone)
– disease
– hive sprayed with pesticides
– hive too small
– very fresh paint
– any other situation which the bees find untenable
Things to remember about the colony growth of a
swarm or package of bees…
The population of bees in your new hive will decrease steadily until
new bees emerge from cells to replace the bees which die. This is
the reason to find any problems with your queen quickly.
Smoke is a great help in
controlling honey bees.
However, don’t use too much.
Good fuel to use in your
smoker:
Wood shavings
Burlap
Punk wood (decaying wood
easily found in dead trees).
Pine needles
Give a couple puffs of smoke at entrance.
Wait a moment for it to take effect.
What should we be looking for when we begin to
work the hive?
First, a beekeeper’s job is to do the least amount of
damage to the bees.
A hive should not be open any longer than necessary
to do an inspection.
You are looking for things that are not normal.
As you gain experience, this will become easier. Hold
the frame so that the sun is reaching the frame from
over your shoulder.
Things you don't want to see:
Varroa mites that might be on bees.
Queen cells?
Other things in the hive such as mice, yellow jackets,
wax moths, SHB, etc.
You should see:
A good population of honey bees.
Eggs, larvae, and capped brood.
Honey and pollen.
This frame from the brood chamber is close to ideal.
Honey is stored at the
top of the frame
Capped brood fills
much of the rest of
the frame.
It's not necessary to find the queen each time we open the hive.
We can tell that she is present if you can see eggs in cells.
A check list:
Is the queen present and do you see all stages of
brood development for worker bees?
Are the bees bringing in pollen and nectar?
Is the bee population growing?
Are the bees building new comb?
Is it time to add another brood box or put on a honey
super?
Is there anything unusual you notice?
Self-spacing frames
Do not allow excessive gaps that will allow burr
and bridge comb.
Poor
laying
pattern
Good brood
pattern
Frames with a
spotty brood
pattern
If the queen has no empty cells in which to lay eggs, the
hive is “honey-bound.”
2015 05-your first month as a beekeeper
2015 05-your first month as a beekeeper
2015 05-your first month as a beekeeper
2015 05-your first month as a beekeeper
2015 05-your first month as a beekeeper

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2015 05-your first month as a beekeeper

  • 2. Tools needed to work bees You will find a number of items in bee catalogs that can be considered tools to use when working bees. However, you will need only two:  A smoker  A hive tool
  • 3.
  • 4.
  • 5. Reasons for absconding (bees left, not a “dead-out”): – extra queen shaken in with bees when package made – robbing/lack of food – screened bottom boards (too much ventilation, decreased retention of queen pheromone) – disease – hive sprayed with pesticides – hive too small – very fresh paint – any other situation which the bees find untenable
  • 6. Things to remember about the colony growth of a swarm or package of bees… The population of bees in your new hive will decrease steadily until new bees emerge from cells to replace the bees which die. This is the reason to find any problems with your queen quickly.
  • 7.
  • 8.
  • 9. Smoke is a great help in controlling honey bees. However, don’t use too much. Good fuel to use in your smoker: Wood shavings Burlap Punk wood (decaying wood easily found in dead trees). Pine needles
  • 10. Give a couple puffs of smoke at entrance. Wait a moment for it to take effect.
  • 11. What should we be looking for when we begin to work the hive? First, a beekeeper’s job is to do the least amount of damage to the bees.
  • 12. A hive should not be open any longer than necessary to do an inspection. You are looking for things that are not normal. As you gain experience, this will become easier. Hold the frame so that the sun is reaching the frame from over your shoulder.
  • 13. Things you don't want to see: Varroa mites that might be on bees. Queen cells? Other things in the hive such as mice, yellow jackets, wax moths, SHB, etc.
  • 14. You should see: A good population of honey bees. Eggs, larvae, and capped brood. Honey and pollen.
  • 15.
  • 16. This frame from the brood chamber is close to ideal. Honey is stored at the top of the frame Capped brood fills much of the rest of the frame.
  • 17. It's not necessary to find the queen each time we open the hive. We can tell that she is present if you can see eggs in cells.
  • 18.
  • 19.
  • 20. A check list: Is the queen present and do you see all stages of brood development for worker bees? Are the bees bringing in pollen and nectar? Is the bee population growing? Are the bees building new comb? Is it time to add another brood box or put on a honey super? Is there anything unusual you notice?
  • 21. Self-spacing frames Do not allow excessive gaps that will allow burr and bridge comb.
  • 22.
  • 23.
  • 24.
  • 25.
  • 27. Frames with a spotty brood pattern
  • 28. If the queen has no empty cells in which to lay eggs, the hive is “honey-bound.”