1. Product: FLSUN PubDate: 08-12-2007 Zone: BR Edition: 1 Page: JUMP2@1 User: rhehir Time: 08-10-2007 07:33 Color: C
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4 • SOUTH FLORIDA SUN-SENTINEL • SUN-SENTINEL.COM • Sunday, August 12, 2007 • BR *
FROM THE COVER
QUOTES MO
Memphis
KY
Nashville
40
By Elvis AR TENNESSEE 24
“Some people tap their
feet, some people snap their 75
fingers, and some people MS AL 59
sway back and forth. I just
65 GA
sorta do ’em all together, I 100 MILES
guess.” (1956)
“I ain’t no saint, but I’ve Staff graphic
tried never to do anything
that would hurt my family or
offend God ... I figure all any IF YOU GO: GRACELAND
kid needs is hope and the
Getting there: Northwest Air-
feeling he or she belongs. If I
lines offers nonstop service to
could do or say anything
Memphis, Tenn., from Fort Lau-
that would give some kid
derdale. Graceland, at 3764
that feeling, I would believe I
Elvis Presley Blvd., is 10 miles
had contributed something
south of downtown Memphis.
to the world.” (1950s)
Hours: 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mon-
“I’ve never gotten over day-Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.
what they call stage fright. I Sundays, most days of the year.
go through it every show.” The self-guided tour takes less
(1972) than two hours. But leave your-
“The first time that I self time to wander around the
appeared onstage, it scared THE KING’S COSTUMES: A former raquetball court at Graceland has been converted to a shrine to Elvis Presley’s 1970s personna, ticket complex across the boule-
me to death. I really didn’t featuring the King’s signature jumpsuits, gold records, guitars, awards and other artifacts. Photo courtesy Elvis Presley Enterprises, Inc. vard, which includes gift shops,
know what all the yelling restaurants and a movie theater
was about. I didn’t realize that plays Elvis films. The King’s
that my body was moving.
It’s a natural thing to me. So
to the manager backstage I
said, ‘What’d I do? What’d I
Museum of jumpsuits, gold records music is piped into the complex
around the clock.
Admission: Ticket prices begin
at $25 for a Graceland tour
do?’ And he said, ‘Whatever ($22.50 for seniors and students,
it is, go back and do it ■ GRACELAND with the dozens of others pre-
sented to him.
$10 for children 7-12, and free
again.’ ” (1972) CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 for those 6 and younger). For
Next to the Trophy Room is a
“The image is one thing $30 ($27 for seniors and stu-
a visit to Graceland. It’s a place converted racquetball court and
and the human being is dents, $15 for kids 7-12), you can
both sacred and profane, where piano room (the last place Elvis
another ... it’s very hard to also tour the King’s two custom
myth and reality blur. It’s a his- made music, on the morning of
live up to an image.” (1972) airplanes, see his automobile
toric landmark where the ves- the day he died) that serves as a
collection, and wander through
“ ’Til we meet you again, tiges of Elvis’ opulent wealth shrine to Elvis’ 1970s stage per-
the Elvis After Dark and Sincerely
may God bless you. Adios.” and tacky tastes battle for do- sona.
Elvis mini-museums. For $68 (all
(1977, at the end of a concert minion. And it’s a living muse- Video monitors play the 1973
ages), you get the VIP treatment,
during his last tour) um that showcases the glory, Elvis: Aloha from Hawaii tele-
which gains you access to some
tragedy and divine excesses vision special that features Elvis
additional archival buildings and
that defined the King’s life, mu- in his iconic white “American
“Rhythm is sic and death. THE ELVIS FAN Eagle” cape and jumpsuit. The
a souvenir backstage pass.
How he became a fan: "When tour guides won’t tell you this — Souvenirs: For Elvis trinkets and
something you The Elvis fan Name: Josh Tate
I heard his music the first time, I there’s no mention of the King’s baubles, steer clear of the pricier
Full disclosure: I’ve never Age: 12 battles with weight and drugs, Graceland complex stores. Go
just got into it. My grandfather
instead to the Graceland Outlet,
either have or been a big Elvis fan. Never lis-
tened to the King’s records as a
Favorite song: Jailhouse Rock played it for me." or his 1973 divorce from Pris-
cilla after six years of marriage not far from the mansion on Elvis
How long he’s loved the Photo location: Beale Street,
don’t have, but kid. Never watched Love Me
Tender or Viva Las Vegas until
King: 8 years Memphis
— but Elvis reportedly favored
jumpsuits in his later years for
Presley Boulevard. It’s licensed
by Elvis Presley Enterprises, but
when you have this year.
My 12-year-old son Josh, on on iPod-style headsets. The self-
their roominess. When wearing
regular suits, he had a tendency
independently operated. Here,
you can buy just about every
The Jungle Room: This
it, you have it the other hand, is a true blue-
suede-shoes fanatic. While his
guided audio tour featured the
voices of Elvis’ daughter, Lisa
cave-like, faux-Polynesian
to rip the back of his pants
when he’d go down on one
kind of Elvis paraphernalia you
can imagine.We picked up an
chamber is awash in deep-pile
all over.” friends are consumed with Marie, his parents and the King
green shag carpet, on the floor
knee or do a split onstage. Elvis necklace, video, 3-D poster
and T-shirt, emblazoned with
bands of the moment like Fall- himself. It was strange to hear
Elvis Presley out Boy and My Chemical Ro- Elvis welcoming us to his home.
and ceiling, and dark-wood
paneling.
The final word the gold Sun Studios logo — all
mance, Josh’s MP3 player and A little while later, we heard We ended the tour at Elvis’ for under $30.
A waterfall, custom-made in
About Elvis CD case are lush with Elvis. A rare home recordings of Elvis grave behind the mansion. He is For information: Go to www.
1974, cascades down one wall.
portrait of the King — in gold la- singing gospel songs with his buried alongside his parents, elvis.com or call 800-238-2000.
A 12-string acoustic guitar sits
“In the spotlight, the mé tuxedo — hangs in his parents. And Lisa Marie, who Vernon and Gladys Presley, and Lodging: The Peabody Hotel is
on a fur-covered lounge chair.
lanky singer flails furious room. He can sing the words to was 9 when he died, reminisced his maternal grandmother. A the grand old dame of Memphis
And red-shaded lamps create
rhythms on his guitar, every B-side tracks and savors rarities about “the rattle of jewelry as he meditation garden, an eternal hotels, luxuriously appointed
just enough light to illuminate
now and then breaking a like a collector (his favorite: came down the stairs.” We flame and a fountain grace the and rich with history. One block
the rough-hewn wooden ani-
string. In a pivoting stance, Presley’s plaintive cover of Paul watched grainy home movies of grounds, next to the swimming off Beale Street, at 149 Union
mal carvings.
his hips swing sensuously McCartney’s Yesterday). And the Presleys, from the ’60s and pool. Ave., the Peabody is best known
This room became a make-
from side to side and his Tupelo’s most famous native ’70s, in the rooms where they Although it’s not encour- for its resident ducks, which
shift studio in Elvis’ later years.
entire body takes on a fran- will inspire his Halloween cos- were filmed. The self-guided aged, visitors leave stuffed make their way via red carpet to
Six of the songs recorded for his
tic quiver, as if he had swal- tume this year and his bar mitz- tour began just inside the front teddy bears, flowers and heart- the lobby fountain each day at
last album, Moody Blue, were
lowed a jackhammer.” — vah theme (we’ve ordered blue- doors of the mansion, in a for- felt notes. It’s not unusual for 11 a.m. to the strains of a John
produced here.
Time, May 15, 1956 suede yamulkes). Josh prefers mal living room that announced fans to spend long minutes at Philip Sousa march. They return
the “older Elvis” of the ’70s to Elvis’ peculiar tastes in interior Exhibit rooms: Various the site, reading the inscriptions to their penthouse pool at 5
“I wanted to say to Elvis
the “young Elvis” of the ’50s. decor. Two stained-glass pea- places in the home have been on the stones, and contemplat- p.m., with similar fanfare. In-
Presley and the country that
(“You can tell when he’s older cocks — in shocking blue and converted to exhibit rooms that ing. A small plaque commemo- formation: www.peabodymem
this is a real decent, fine
because his voice is deeper and gold — flanked the main living showcase Elvis’ clothes and rates Elvis’ twin brother, Jesse phis.com or call 901-529-4000.
boy.” — Ed Sullivan, during
a little slower,” he notes). area. A white sofa stretched the personal items. Dozens of cos- Garon Presley, who died in There are also major hotel chains
Elvis’ third appearance on
“There’s nobody who sings length of the room. A grand pia- tumes are on display here, from childbirth on Jan. 8, 1935, and like Hilton, Marriott and Holiday
his show, Jan. 6, 1957
like Elvis,” he explains. “None no occupied a side area. the black-leather suit from his was buried in an unmarked Inn.
“You have no idea how of his music sounds the same. Here, Elvis and his parents televised ’68 Comeback Spe- grave in Tupelo. The mind bog-
great he is, really you don’t. And every time you hear it, you sang gospel songs shortly after cial to the caped jumpsuits he gles at what might have been Eating: Memphis is known for
You have no comprehension hear something different that he purchased the home in 1957 favored in the 1970s. had young Jesse lived. its neat, dry-rubbed style of pork
— it’s absolutely impossible. you didn’t hear before.” for just over $100,000. He was One exhibit room features an “ When I was a child,” we ribs. The Rendezvous restaurant
I can’t tell you why he’s so Josh takes in stride the fact 22 at the time; only three years office desk and bookshelf that heard Elvis say on our audio may get all the press, but several
great, but he is. He’s sensa- that he alone among his pals had passed since he had record- h o l d s Ka h l i l G i b r a n’ s T h e tour, “I was a dreamer. [And] ev- lesser-known rib places also
tional.” — Phil Spector likes the King. ed a swinging version of Arthur Prophet, Herman Hesse’s Sid- ery dream that I ever dreamed provide terrific fare, including
“No kid my age likes good Crudup’s blues standard That’s dhartha and The Warren Re- has come true 100 times.” Corky’s and Tops.
“Elvis Presley’s death Our favorite: Central BBQ at
music,” he says. “All my friends Alright [Mama] for famed port. Elvis’ gun collection, in- Heading out, I asked Josh
deprives our country of a two locations: 2249 Central Ave.,
like rap, but all the rappers sing Memphis record producer Sam cluding a prized turquoise-han- what he’d liked best about the
part of itself. He was unique, and 4375 Summer Ave. Serves
about is money and women. Ex- Phillips. As we proceeded on dled Colt 45 engraved with his place. “Probably the Jungle
irreplaceable. ... And he was fall-off-the-bone tender ribs in a
cept for Snoop Dogg — he’s the tour, the decor became pro- initials, is on display, along with Room or the Trophy Room,” he
a symbol to the people the no-fuss, no-muss atmosphere. A
cool.” gressively more garish, but also his karate clothes. said. “I liked seeing all the weird
world over of the vitality, full slab is (a reasonable) $18,
rebelliousness and good With the 30th anniversary of more intriguing. The upstairs The Trophy Room: This furniture he had and I can’t be-
the King’s death and Josh’s rooms, including the bathroom lieve all those jumpsuits he and includes bread and two
humor of this country.” — elaborate 40-foot-long gallery, sides.
President Carter, official 13th birthday coinciding in Au- where Elvis was found dead, filled with awards and memora- wore.”
gust, this summer seemed like are closed to the public. (These But he quickly added: “I For a treat, check out Donald’s
statement after Elvis’ death, bilia, is the tour’s centerpiece. Donuts on 5144 Riverdale Road.
1977 the perfect time for a visit to private areas are reportedly Visitors can pore over hundreds think the whole place was cool
Graceland. where Lisa Marie and other — all of it.” The sweet, fluffy glazed originals
of vintage photos and film clips, are a local favorite.
“It was like he came along family members stay when they We stopped to sign the brick
The King’s castle gold records, news clippings,
and whispered some dream visit.) But the first-floor living wall that rings the property, Fun: Beale Street, with its blues
movie posters and costumes
in everybody’s ear, and Elvis Presley Boulevard is a areas were vivid enough: Avo- adding our names and senti- joints and BBQ places near the
from every decade of his career.
somehow we all dreamed shabby stretch of broken Mem- cado shag carpeting and gold ments to thousands of others. Mississippi Riverfront. Keep an
Among the highlights: Video
it.” — Bruce Springsteen phis asphalt flanked by low- kitchen appliances. Blood-red “What should I write?” Josh eye out for Mr. Walter, a street
of the King’s performances on
“When I first heard Elvis’ rent strip malls, vacant lots and velvet sofas with ostrich-feather asked, uncapping a Magic actor who makes his living doing
the Ed Sullivan and Milton
voice I just knew that I aging car-repair shops. Cheesy pillows. A white-fur-lined cano- Marker. “What’s the first thing an uncanny impersonation of
Berle shows in the 1950s that in-
wasn’t going to work for Graceland souvenir shops line py bed, inlaid with an 8-track that comes to mind when you the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr.
troduced him to a national audi-
anybody. ... Hearing him for the street, joined by the ram- player. Dark-wood paneling think of what Graceland is all www.bealestreet.com.
ence. The Hall of Gold inside
the first time was like bust- shackle Elvis Presley Coin-Op and animal-skin furniture. Ca- the Trophy Room contains the about?” I asked. History: Memphis is home to
ing out of jail.” Laundromat and the Rock ‘N’ nary-yellow bar stools and verti- King’s first gold record, Heart- He smiled, then wrote: Sun Studio, the place that
— Bob Dylan Roll Café, which features an El- go-inducing mirrored hallways. break Hotel from 1956, along “Elvis lives!” launched Elvis, Johnny Cash and
vis impersonator several nights And, of course, some rooms Jerry Lee Lewis, among others
“It’s rare when an artist’s a week. stood out. (706 Union Ave., 800-441-6249,
talent can touch an entire Eventually, the boulevard sunstudio.com). The Stax
generation of people. It’s The TV Room: In the 1960s,
leads to the elegant gates of Museum of American Soul
even rarer when that same Elvis had heard President John-
Graceland. And here, amid the Music is also here (926 E.
influence affects several son installed three TVs at the
crowds of other pilgrims, the McLemore Ave., 901-946-2535,
generations. Elvis made an White House so he could watch
magic begins to emerge. staxmuseum. com).
imprint on the world of pop all three network news stations
Pulling up to the estate, the The former Lorraine Motel,
music unequaled by any at once. So when the King de-
first thing we noticed was how where the Rev. Martin Luther
other single performer.” — signed his basement TV den,
modest it is, given its storied King Jr. was slain in 1968, has
Dick Clark with an accompanying yellow-
reputation. Rising from a gentle been converted into the Na-
and-black leather bar, he outfit-
“He was the firstest with hill, the 17,000-square-foot Co- tional Civil Rights Museum (450
ted it with three TVs. (Eleven
the mostest.” lonial revival home — tiny by to- Mulberry St., 901-521-9699,
others fill the home).
— Roy Orbison day’s celebrity standards — is www.civilrightsmuseum.org).
The room displays a wide as-
encircled by a low brick wall
— NICK TATE sortment of records from the For more info: Contact the
that allows the home to be seen
King’s extensive collection. It’s Memphis Convention and Visi-
from the street.
also decorated with a large ce- tors Bureau (901-543-5300,
“Before Elvis, “Kinda small, isn’t it?” Josh
asked. “ Why would he live
ramic monkey that sits on a www.memphistravel.com). You
mirrored table, and a mural fea- can also visit the Web site of the
there was here? This isn’t that great a
place. He could have lived any-
turing the lightning-bolt “TCB” city’s alternative paper, the
insignia (“Takin’ Care of Busi- Memphis Flyer: www.memphis
nothing.” where.”
We took a shuttle bus from a
ness”) that Elvis adopted as a
THEY STILL LOVE HIM TENDER: Visitors pause at the grave site
of Elvis Presley. Thursday is the 30th anniversary of the music flyer.com.
slogan in the late 1970s. — NICK TATE
John Lennon nearby ticket complex and put legend’s death. Staff photos/Nick Tate