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travel − quick getaway




                                                                   Of Trees
                                                                   & Cheese
IMAGES NEW FOREST TOURIST BOARD / CAREYS MANOR / ISTOCkphOTO.COM




                                                                                                                  I
                                                                   Acorn-hungry pigs, award-winning                         T’S PRETTY much guaranteed that on Christmas day – usually
                                                                                                                            between the hours of 11am and 1pm, when the turkey is gently
                                                                   cheesemakers and a spa in the middle of it               basking in the oven and the mulled wine is simmering on the stove
                                                                   all; Nikki Haynes finds that there’s more to             – the Haynes family will be on their Christmas Day walk around
                                                                                                                            the New Forest. When I was growing up in Southampton, every
                                                                   the New Forest than trees                                Christmas and summer holiday and weekend was spent in the
                                                                                                                  forest; we’d take our bikes, have picnics and visit the newborn ponies and
                                                                                                                  donkeys that were roaming freely. We’d go on long walks and end up in
                                                                                                                  a country pub for a ploughman’s lunch or, if my mum had anything to do
                                                                                                                  with it, some tea and cake at one of Lymington’s old-fashioned tea shops,
                                                                                                                  full of lace and bone china. So, having been a seasoned regular at the
                                                                                                                  Forest for all these years, I considered myself something of an expert on
                                                                                                                  setting out on my latest visit. I soon discovered that this wasn’t the case!


                                                                                                                                                                          freshescapes.com 37
fresh escapes                                                                                                                                                                                   travel − quick getaway



                                   hampshire                                                                                                                           Planning
                                                                                                                                                                       When’s the best time to go?
          united
          kingdom                                                                                                                                                        Any time of the year in my opinion! The
                                                   southampton                                                                                                         spring brings an abundance of new life in the
                                                                                                                                                                       shape of flowers, new foals and lambs; the
                                                                                                                                                                       summer sees the ground ablaze with a purple
                                                                                                                                                                       carpet of heather, autumn brings the pigs
                                  lyndhurst                                                                                                                            out to pannage and you’ll see them snorting
                                                                                                                                                                       round the looking for acorns and in winter you
                                                                                                                                                                       might be lucky to see the Forest covered in a
                              brockenhurst
                                                                                                                                                                       sprinkling of snow and spot deer running about
  new forest
                                                                                                                                                                       (also a great time for venison!).
  n at i o n a l pa r k
                                                                                                                                                                         If you’re a foodie then visiting in July is a great
                                                                                                                                                                       idea, because it’s the fabulous Hampshire Food
  0                5 miles    n                                                                                                                                        Festival (1st-31st July, various events across
                                                                                                                                                                       Hampshire, visit www.hampshirefare.co.uk for
                                                                                                                                                                       more info)



This Page: (Clockwise from top) The New Forest is a place of
great natural beauty, Careys Manor & SenSpa, pigs snuffling
for their supper. Opposite Page: (Clockwise from top) The
                                                                 Travel Essentials
New Forest Goat Dairy, a newborn pony finds his feet.            Insider information
                                                                        How to get tHere
   Of course, I did know that the Forest was a                        South West Trains: www.
place of rugged beauty, stretching over 140,000                       southwesttrains.co.uk serves four
acres of land in the south of England. And I                          stations within the forest, including
knew it was old: in 1079 William the Conqueror                        Brockenhurst
designated the area his “new hunting forest”
where the deer and other game animals were                              wHere to stay
protected (although not from royal arrows).                           Careys Manor Hotel, Lyndhurst Road,
Some of the ancient practices employed to                             Brockenhurst, Hampshire, SO42 7RH.
manage the land in those days are still in use                        Rooms from £89 per person per night
now. The area is a natural larder full of amazing                     based on two sharing on a B&B breakfast
produce and many of the animals reared in the                         Visit www.careysmanor.com or call
forest are free to forage on a tasty mixture of                       01590 623 551
herbs and grasses that’s unique to the area.
Local inhabitants have “Common Rights” of                               wHere to eat
the Forest, such as “pasture”; the right to graze                     The Royal Oak, Fritham, Lyndhurst, S043
livestock including ponies, cattle, donkeys and                       7HJ or call 02380 812606



                                                                                                                “
to a lesser extent sheep, and “pannage”; the                          Hare & Hounds, Sway, Lyndhurst, SO41          A landscape of rugged                             A proper pub
practice of allowing domestic pigs to graze on                        6AL call 01590 682404                                                                           After we checked into the hotel our first port of
fallen acorns or beech mast (or nuts). This is                        Le Poussin at Whitley Ridge, Beaulieu     beauty that covers over 140                           call was The Royal Oak in Fritham. This is a much
important as the acorns are fatally toxic to the                      Road, call 01590 622354 or visit www.
                                                                                                                thousand acres of land, and                           loved pub with so much character and charm




                                                                                                                                                           ”
New Forest’s wild pony population (and give                           lepoussin.co.uk                                                                                 that it seems to draw in everybody in the vicinity!
the pork a fabulous flavour!).                                                                                  is about 1,000 years old                              Locals, walkers, horseriders and cyclists gather
                                                                        UsefUl contacts                                                                               from far and wide for refreshment. Its chocolate-
A great escape                                                        Senspa: www.senspa.co.uk or call          a boutique Eastern feel, which the hotel describe     box looks might have something to do with it: the
A friend and I decided to get out of the city and                     01590 623551                              as “contemporary oriental sophistication”. (A         pub boasts a traditional thatched roof, a garden
go for a relaxing girly weekend to the forest – lots                  Lyburn Cheese: www.lyburnfarm.co.uk       little odd when you first come in from the Cluedo     bursting with cottage flowers and a special gate
of fresh air, walks, good food, real ale and . . . spa                or call 01794 390 451                     set of the main building, but it works surprisingly   to tie your horse to when you come and visit.
treatments. Yes, as well as its more traditional                      New Forest Marque:                        well once you get used to it.) There are three        The building, which dates back to the 1600s, has
charms. the Forest has its very own health farm                       www.newforestproduce.com                  restaurants onsite; The Manor, a 2 AA Rosette         always been a pub, and the current owners Neil
in the form of Careys Manor & SenSpa.                                 Fold Farm New Forest Goat Dairy: Mount    award-winning place, which uses free-range,           and Pauline McCulloch are a warm and friendly
  Brockenhurst station is only an hour and a                          Pleasant Lane, Sway, SO41 8LS or call     organic and local produce; Le Blaireau Brasserie,     couple who are happy to chat about the place’s
half’s train ride from London and Careys is just                      01590 670 477                             which serves traditional French fare; and the Zen     history. Expect roaring log fires, heavy wooden
five minutes from the station. The hotel is a                         New Forest Tourism Association:           Garden restaurant located at the SenSpa. The          furniture, pictures of the Forest’s past on the
beautiful, very English-looking manor house with                      call 02380 285 464 or visit www.          latter offers authentic Thai cooking; here you can    walls and the odd older gentleman playing chess
lots of wooden panelling, tapestries and roaring                      thenewforest.co.uk                        have a three-course dinner in the evening or just     with a weary dog at his feet.
log fires. Modern additions have, perhaps wisely,                                                               pop in for an exotic post- massage smoothie after       The ale is certainly worth mentioning; the small
not attempted to emulate this: instead they have                                                                your treatment.                                       bar is fully stocked with special, cask-conditioned


38 freshescapes.com                                                                                                                                                                                    freshescapes.com 39
fresh escapes



local brews: no wonder CAMRA named The                Makers Marque                                        Nettle. But all this eating is exhausting work, and,
Royal Oak regional award winners in 1999, 2000        The Royal Oak holds the New Forest Marque; an        great as the cheeses were, we were ready for our
& 2001. In 2005 it was voted Hampshire Life           award that guarantees the use of local produce.      relaxing treatments back at Careys’ SenSpa.
pub of the year. Thankfully the food lives up to      There are so many passionate producers in
expectations too: a tiny kitchen at the back of the   the area that the Marque initiative, which only      Goat’s cheese
pub produces simple, delicious British pub grub;      began four years ago, has 120 on its books           The next day we paid a visit to the award
homemade quiches, six varieties of ploughman’s        and is available in 60 farm shops, restaurants       winning New Forest Goat Dairy at Fold Farm in
lunches, locally made Uptons pork pies, and           and hotels. As well as guaranteeing origin and       Sway. The owners, Jason and Clare Holmes, are a
duck and kippers smoked in a shed at the bottom       quality it also helps to support local growers and   young couple who used to be in the armed forces
of the garden. If you visit during the summer you     producers. (For more information see www.            and decided to give it up, move to the Forest and
might be lucky enough to catch a hog roast there      newforestproduce.com.) Three members of              start a goat farm! The dairy opened four years
too. The Lyburn Old Westminster ploughman’s           the Marque are cheesemakers in the Forest;           ago with just three animals; today they have over
I ate involved a plate of thickly sliced pink         Lyburn, Loosehanger and the New Forest Goat          20 with plans to expand to 36. The goats are
gammon, mature cheese, warm crusty bread,             Dairy. Lyburn is available in Waitrose and is the    turned out daily to enjoy grazing on grass, gorse,
a divine homemade pickled onion and a locally         biggest operation. It produces a variety of award-   brambles and nettles, and all of the hard feed
produced chutney that tasted of Christmas.            winning cheeses including Lyburn Gold, Old           they are given is GM free (the couple make their
Perhaps the perfect pub meal?                         Winchester, Stoney Cross and Smoked Garlic and       own hay without the use of fertilisers). Jason
                                                                                                           and Clare produce milk and a soft goat’s cheese
                                                                                                           at the moment, and they’re experimenting with
                                                                                                           yoghurt and a semi-ripened cheese.
                                                                                                              After playing with the goats, daydreaming
                                                                                                           about upping sticks and tasting their creamy and
                                                                                                           deliciously piquant cheeses, we were ready for
                                                                                                           our lunch. We dined at the traditional Hare &
                                                                                                           Hounds at Sway, which serves traditional pub
                                                                                                           grub. But be warned – the portions are massive
                                                                                                           so you might be sitting there for a while!

                                                                                                           From forest to vineyard
                                                                                                           There are three working vineyards in the
                                                                                                           New Forest; Setley Ridge, Beaulieu Estate and
                                                                                                           Marlings Vineyard. Like many English vineyards
                                                                                                           they’re still very new and need time to grow
                                                                                                           into their full potential, but if you are interested
                                                                                                           in trying some local wine then I recommend a
                                                                                                           glass of Three Cows rosé; produced by Marlings,
                                                                                                           it’s light, has berry aromas and is perfect for the
                                                                                                           English summer. That evening we had dinner at
                                                                                                           Alex Aitken’s Le Poussin at Whitley Ridge. Set
                                                                                                           in a former royal hunting lodge that dates back
                                                                                                           to the 18th century, both the surroundings and
                                                                                                           the food are simply outstanding. Self-taught chef
                                                                                                           Aitken has a Michelin star, several restaurants
                                                                                                           around the world andthe likes of Gordon Ramsay
                                                                                                           raving about his food! The menu is British, but
                                                                                                           with a French twist, and, like so many chefs in
                                                                                                           the area, he places an emphasis on high-quality
                                                                                                           local produce.

                                                                                                           Five-star fun
                                                                                                           When we sat down for a glass of wine with Alex
                                                                                                           he told us about his new project – a country
                                                                                                           house hotel on the same site, which he describes
                                                                                                           as the “ultimate house in the country complete
                                                                                                           with grand spa”. Although Parkhill wasn’t yet
                                                                                                           open for business, it had already been awarded
                                                                                                           five-stars. If he applies the same high standards
                                                                                                           there as he does to his food, I’m definitely going
                                                                                                           to have to investigate next time I’m in the vicinity
                                                                                                           – maybe a detour is in order on this year’s
                                                                                                           Christmas walk?


40 freshescapes.com

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Quick Getaway to the New Forest

  • 1. travel − quick getaway Of Trees & Cheese IMAGES NEW FOREST TOURIST BOARD / CAREYS MANOR / ISTOCkphOTO.COM I Acorn-hungry pigs, award-winning T’S PRETTY much guaranteed that on Christmas day – usually between the hours of 11am and 1pm, when the turkey is gently cheesemakers and a spa in the middle of it basking in the oven and the mulled wine is simmering on the stove all; Nikki Haynes finds that there’s more to – the Haynes family will be on their Christmas Day walk around the New Forest. When I was growing up in Southampton, every the New Forest than trees Christmas and summer holiday and weekend was spent in the forest; we’d take our bikes, have picnics and visit the newborn ponies and donkeys that were roaming freely. We’d go on long walks and end up in a country pub for a ploughman’s lunch or, if my mum had anything to do with it, some tea and cake at one of Lymington’s old-fashioned tea shops, full of lace and bone china. So, having been a seasoned regular at the Forest for all these years, I considered myself something of an expert on setting out on my latest visit. I soon discovered that this wasn’t the case! freshescapes.com 37
  • 2. fresh escapes travel − quick getaway hampshire Planning When’s the best time to go? united kingdom Any time of the year in my opinion! The southampton spring brings an abundance of new life in the shape of flowers, new foals and lambs; the summer sees the ground ablaze with a purple carpet of heather, autumn brings the pigs lyndhurst out to pannage and you’ll see them snorting round the looking for acorns and in winter you might be lucky to see the Forest covered in a brockenhurst sprinkling of snow and spot deer running about new forest (also a great time for venison!). n at i o n a l pa r k If you’re a foodie then visiting in July is a great idea, because it’s the fabulous Hampshire Food 0 5 miles n Festival (1st-31st July, various events across Hampshire, visit www.hampshirefare.co.uk for more info) This Page: (Clockwise from top) The New Forest is a place of great natural beauty, Careys Manor & SenSpa, pigs snuffling for their supper. Opposite Page: (Clockwise from top) The Travel Essentials New Forest Goat Dairy, a newborn pony finds his feet. Insider information How to get tHere Of course, I did know that the Forest was a South West Trains: www. place of rugged beauty, stretching over 140,000 southwesttrains.co.uk serves four acres of land in the south of England. And I stations within the forest, including knew it was old: in 1079 William the Conqueror Brockenhurst designated the area his “new hunting forest” where the deer and other game animals were wHere to stay protected (although not from royal arrows). Careys Manor Hotel, Lyndhurst Road, Some of the ancient practices employed to Brockenhurst, Hampshire, SO42 7RH. manage the land in those days are still in use Rooms from £89 per person per night now. The area is a natural larder full of amazing based on two sharing on a B&B breakfast produce and many of the animals reared in the Visit www.careysmanor.com or call forest are free to forage on a tasty mixture of 01590 623 551 herbs and grasses that’s unique to the area. Local inhabitants have “Common Rights” of wHere to eat the Forest, such as “pasture”; the right to graze The Royal Oak, Fritham, Lyndhurst, S043 livestock including ponies, cattle, donkeys and 7HJ or call 02380 812606 “ to a lesser extent sheep, and “pannage”; the Hare & Hounds, Sway, Lyndhurst, SO41 A landscape of rugged A proper pub practice of allowing domestic pigs to graze on 6AL call 01590 682404 After we checked into the hotel our first port of fallen acorns or beech mast (or nuts). This is Le Poussin at Whitley Ridge, Beaulieu beauty that covers over 140 call was The Royal Oak in Fritham. This is a much important as the acorns are fatally toxic to the Road, call 01590 622354 or visit www. thousand acres of land, and loved pub with so much character and charm ” New Forest’s wild pony population (and give lepoussin.co.uk that it seems to draw in everybody in the vicinity! the pork a fabulous flavour!). is about 1,000 years old Locals, walkers, horseriders and cyclists gather UsefUl contacts from far and wide for refreshment. Its chocolate- A great escape Senspa: www.senspa.co.uk or call a boutique Eastern feel, which the hotel describe box looks might have something to do with it: the A friend and I decided to get out of the city and 01590 623551 as “contemporary oriental sophistication”. (A pub boasts a traditional thatched roof, a garden go for a relaxing girly weekend to the forest – lots Lyburn Cheese: www.lyburnfarm.co.uk little odd when you first come in from the Cluedo bursting with cottage flowers and a special gate of fresh air, walks, good food, real ale and . . . spa or call 01794 390 451 set of the main building, but it works surprisingly to tie your horse to when you come and visit. treatments. Yes, as well as its more traditional New Forest Marque: well once you get used to it.) There are three The building, which dates back to the 1600s, has charms. the Forest has its very own health farm www.newforestproduce.com restaurants onsite; The Manor, a 2 AA Rosette always been a pub, and the current owners Neil in the form of Careys Manor & SenSpa. Fold Farm New Forest Goat Dairy: Mount award-winning place, which uses free-range, and Pauline McCulloch are a warm and friendly Brockenhurst station is only an hour and a Pleasant Lane, Sway, SO41 8LS or call organic and local produce; Le Blaireau Brasserie, couple who are happy to chat about the place’s half’s train ride from London and Careys is just 01590 670 477 which serves traditional French fare; and the Zen history. Expect roaring log fires, heavy wooden five minutes from the station. The hotel is a New Forest Tourism Association: Garden restaurant located at the SenSpa. The furniture, pictures of the Forest’s past on the beautiful, very English-looking manor house with call 02380 285 464 or visit www. latter offers authentic Thai cooking; here you can walls and the odd older gentleman playing chess lots of wooden panelling, tapestries and roaring thenewforest.co.uk have a three-course dinner in the evening or just with a weary dog at his feet. log fires. Modern additions have, perhaps wisely, pop in for an exotic post- massage smoothie after The ale is certainly worth mentioning; the small not attempted to emulate this: instead they have your treatment. bar is fully stocked with special, cask-conditioned 38 freshescapes.com freshescapes.com 39
  • 3. fresh escapes local brews: no wonder CAMRA named The Makers Marque Nettle. But all this eating is exhausting work, and, Royal Oak regional award winners in 1999, 2000 The Royal Oak holds the New Forest Marque; an great as the cheeses were, we were ready for our & 2001. In 2005 it was voted Hampshire Life award that guarantees the use of local produce. relaxing treatments back at Careys’ SenSpa. pub of the year. Thankfully the food lives up to There are so many passionate producers in expectations too: a tiny kitchen at the back of the the area that the Marque initiative, which only Goat’s cheese pub produces simple, delicious British pub grub; began four years ago, has 120 on its books The next day we paid a visit to the award homemade quiches, six varieties of ploughman’s and is available in 60 farm shops, restaurants winning New Forest Goat Dairy at Fold Farm in lunches, locally made Uptons pork pies, and and hotels. As well as guaranteeing origin and Sway. The owners, Jason and Clare Holmes, are a duck and kippers smoked in a shed at the bottom quality it also helps to support local growers and young couple who used to be in the armed forces of the garden. If you visit during the summer you producers. (For more information see www. and decided to give it up, move to the Forest and might be lucky enough to catch a hog roast there newforestproduce.com.) Three members of start a goat farm! The dairy opened four years too. The Lyburn Old Westminster ploughman’s the Marque are cheesemakers in the Forest; ago with just three animals; today they have over I ate involved a plate of thickly sliced pink Lyburn, Loosehanger and the New Forest Goat 20 with plans to expand to 36. The goats are gammon, mature cheese, warm crusty bread, Dairy. Lyburn is available in Waitrose and is the turned out daily to enjoy grazing on grass, gorse, a divine homemade pickled onion and a locally biggest operation. It produces a variety of award- brambles and nettles, and all of the hard feed produced chutney that tasted of Christmas. winning cheeses including Lyburn Gold, Old they are given is GM free (the couple make their Perhaps the perfect pub meal? Winchester, Stoney Cross and Smoked Garlic and own hay without the use of fertilisers). Jason and Clare produce milk and a soft goat’s cheese at the moment, and they’re experimenting with yoghurt and a semi-ripened cheese. After playing with the goats, daydreaming about upping sticks and tasting their creamy and deliciously piquant cheeses, we were ready for our lunch. We dined at the traditional Hare & Hounds at Sway, which serves traditional pub grub. But be warned – the portions are massive so you might be sitting there for a while! From forest to vineyard There are three working vineyards in the New Forest; Setley Ridge, Beaulieu Estate and Marlings Vineyard. Like many English vineyards they’re still very new and need time to grow into their full potential, but if you are interested in trying some local wine then I recommend a glass of Three Cows rosé; produced by Marlings, it’s light, has berry aromas and is perfect for the English summer. That evening we had dinner at Alex Aitken’s Le Poussin at Whitley Ridge. Set in a former royal hunting lodge that dates back to the 18th century, both the surroundings and the food are simply outstanding. Self-taught chef Aitken has a Michelin star, several restaurants around the world andthe likes of Gordon Ramsay raving about his food! The menu is British, but with a French twist, and, like so many chefs in the area, he places an emphasis on high-quality local produce. Five-star fun When we sat down for a glass of wine with Alex he told us about his new project – a country house hotel on the same site, which he describes as the “ultimate house in the country complete with grand spa”. Although Parkhill wasn’t yet open for business, it had already been awarded five-stars. If he applies the same high standards there as he does to his food, I’m definitely going to have to investigate next time I’m in the vicinity – maybe a detour is in order on this year’s Christmas walk? 40 freshescapes.com