Abseiling rock climbing intro handbook

Introduction to Abseiling &
Rockclimbing
Learner Resource
September 2012 Version 2.4

Abseiling & Rockclimbing intro Handbook September 2012 V3.0
This symbol is used throughout these notes to indicate important safety
points. Please pay extra attention to these points.
Acknowledgments
Martin Worth
WorthWild Pty Ltd
Author and source material
ABLE NT
Abseiling Skills Learner Resources
February 2000, M. Jerram
Army Adventurous Training Centre
Climbing Leaders Handbook
2
nd
Edition 1992 S. Stephenson
Abseiling Skills/ Anchors Self Study Materials
Professional Association Climbing Instructors 1998

CHAPTER 1 ABOUT ABSEILING ..............................................................................................................5
‘Single-pitch’ and ‘Multi-pitch’.................................................................................................................... 5
Artificial Surface & Natural Surface........................................................................................................... 5
Abseiling on single or double ropes.......................................................................................................... 5
CHAPTER 2 ABOUT ROCKCLIMBING......................................................................................................6
Top-roped climbing ................................................................................................................................... 6
Artificial Surface & Natural Surface........................................................................................................... 7
CHAPTER 3 MINIMAL IMPACT PRACTICES............................................................................................8
Choosing an activity site ( Natural Cliff).................................................................................................... 8
CHAPTER 4 SAFETY ON SITE ..................................................................................................................9
Responding to emergencies ..................................................................................................................... 9
Abseiling Hazards and Control Measures .............................................................................................. 10
Rockclimbing Hazards and Control Measures.......................................................................................... 1
CHAPTER 4 EQUIPMENT FAMILIARITY...................................................................................................6
Abseiling & Rockclimbing Equipment ....................................................................................................... 6
Descending and Belaying Devices ........................................................................................................... 9
Group Equipment.................................................................................................................................... 12
CHAPTER 5 PREPARING TO ABSEIL ....................................................................................................14
Abseiling Technique................................................................................................................................ 15
Belaying .................................................................................................................................................. 17
Bottom Belay (used under direct supervision of an instructor) ............................................................... 17
Top Belay (preferred method and used during training)......................................................................... 18
CHAPTER 6 PREPARING TO CLIMB ......................................................................................................22
Rock Climbing Techniques Belaying ...................................................................................................... 23
Belaying .................................................................................................................................................. 23
Rockclimbing Techniques for the climber ............................................................................................... 27
Principles of movement on rock.............................................................................................................. 28
Cliff features............................................................................................................................................ 29
CHAPTER 8 THE WEATHER....................................................................................................................31
Risk and the weather .............................................................................................................................. 31
Keeping an eye on the weather .............................................................................................................. 31
Observing weather patterns.................................................................................................................... 32
CHAPTER 9 CARE OF THE EQUIPMENT...............................................................................................33

Pre and Post checks ............................................................................................................................... 33
Isolating damaged equipment................................................................................................................. 34
Scheduled Equipment Maintenance ....................................................................................................... 34
CHAPTER 10 EVALUATE THE SESSION .............................................................................................39
Logbooks................................................................................................................................................. 39
Self-Assessment ..................................................................................................................................... 39

Abseiling & Rockclimbing intro Handbook September 2012 V3.0 5
CHAPTER 1 ABOUT ABSEILING
Abseiling is the term used to describe descending on a rope whilst controlling the speed and progress by
friction against the rope. Abseiling originated as a way for climbers to descend to a climb or return to the
start of a climb if no other way down was possible. It is also a common practice in other sports including
caving, canyoning and vertical rescue. Many abseiling methods have been used over the years, originating
with the classic abseil, involving the use of one’s body to provide friction, to the current use of friction devices
on the rope to control ones decent.
The term abseiling is derived from a German word literally meaning "to go down rope".
Ab = to go down
Seil = rope
The term rappel means to "retrieve rope". Therefore, rappelling is to abseil on a retrievable system, i.e. twin
strand rope.
‘SINGLE-PITCH’ AND ‘MULTI-PITCH’
Single-pitch means that the rope will reach safe ground in one length from the top of the cliff (i.e., the rope
always reaches a safe ground position with foot access).
Multi-pitch means that the rope does not reach safe ground. To understand this concept, it may be helpful to
think of the world’s highest mountain - Mt Everest. There is no rope long enough to reach the ground from
the top of Mt Everest! In this instance, you would need to abseil many rope lengths to reach the ground.
This repetitive process is known as multi-pitch abseiling.
Prior to attempting any multi-pitch abseiling, it is vital that you are skilled and knowledgeable in self-
rescue techniques.
ARTIFICIAL SURFACE & NATURAL SURFACE
Artificial surface is a term that relates to man-made structures including towers and indoor and outdoor
climbing walls. It may also relate to any other structure such as a building, silo, etc. The Artificial
environment is usually set up with attachment points or there are tie down points available (building
components, columns etc) which can be used for anchoring to. Although artificial surface is usually
completely vertical and may have its own hazards it is free of the hazards of ‘rock fall’ and loose debris
inherent in the natural cliff environment.
Natural surface relates to outdoor cliff environments. A cliff has been defined as a vertical or near vertical
drop in excess of 9 meters in height. It seems to not matter if the cliff was ‘mad made’ as in a quarry or other
excavation, nor whether there are installed anchors or not.
ABSEILING ON SINGLE OR DOUBLE ROPES
Most descending/belay devices will allow the user to descend with double ropes. Generally, auto-locking
devices (such as the Gri Gri) will only accept a single rope of a defined diameter. This generally makes auto-
locking devices unsuitable for lead climbing. As a general rule of thumb, “if you double the rope, you double
the friction”. Most people find that they can descend quite comfortably without gloves when using double
ropes. It is most common to descend on double ropes when using a retrievable abseil system.

CHAPTER 2 ABOUT ROCKCLIMBING
Rockclimbing is a popular adventure sport involving the ascent of cliff faces.
Specialised equipment is used in rockclimbing to safeguard the climber.
Such equipment includes harness, helmet, carabiners and a rope which is connected at one end to the
climber and at the other to the belayer. In simple terms, the belayer is the person who holds the top to
protect the climber if he/she should fall. Belaying is provided through the use of friction caused by the rope
passing through a belay device.
The sport of rockclimbing preceded the establishment of abseiling as an adventure activity. Abseiling was
regarded as simply the method used to return to safe ground on completion of a climb. Indeed in the early
days of climbing, ropes were used purely for descending the climb. Descent was (and still is in the true
context of mountaineering) regarded as the most dangerous part of the climb.
Lead climbing is now accepted as the standard and purest method of climbing a cliff or mountain. ‘Leading’
utilises a ‘ground up’ approach to climbing where the climber and their partner (or ‘second’) ascend the cliff
using removable and fixed protection on the rock face as attachment points into which the rope is clipped to
allow protection, from a ground fall. The leader (lead) climbs first whilst the second provides the belay.
Once the leader gets to a safe point and establishes a belay there, then the second climbs to that point
under belay from the lead climber. In this fashion a climbing team may go as far up the mountain (or cliff) as
they want.
This is process of ‘leap frogging’ up the mountain is called multi-pitch climbing (defined later on). The basis
of this course of study however is Single Pitch Climbing – Top-belayed.
So, let’s define these terms to get us started.
TOP-ROPED CLIMBING
Top-rope climbing involves the establishment of an anchor system at the top of
the selected climbing route before commencing climbing. The rope is
attached through carabiners so that it can pull through without restriction and
both of the rope ends reach the ground. The climber is attached to one end of
the rope and as the climbs; the belayer pulls the other end of the rope (the
‘belay’ end) through a belay device to apply friction to the rope to allow the
belayer to hold it ‘locked off’ in case of a climber fall. See the dinky diagram at
right!
So, a top-rope climbing set up requires a couple of things that a lead climbing set up doesn’t.
 We require access to the top of the climb first.
 We require suitable anchors at the top of the climb
 We require a climb that is less than 25 meters in height, and
 We intend only to climb one ‘pitch’(explained in next section)
‘SINGLE-PITCH’ AND ‘MULTI-PITCH’
A rope ‘pitch’ is definitively the length of the rope. Thus a single pitch climb is only as long as one rope
length and a multi pitch climb is many rope lengths long.
A standard rope length is 150 feet, or now, 50 meters long.
Only a lead climbing team can climb further than 50 meters on a mountain or cliff using the method
described above. A top-rope climbing team is limited to one rope pitch. In actual fact, if the belay is

conducted from the base of the climb as described then the top-rope climbing team is limited to less than a
half rope length of 25 meters.
If the climb is more than 25 meters then the belayer may belay from the top of the climb and thus allow the
team to climb a climb of up to 50 meters; one rope length which is defined as one pitch!
This is why sometimes top-rope climbing is referred to a ‘restricted’ climbing.
ARTIFICIAL SURFACE & NATURAL SURFACE
Artificial surface is a term that relates to man-made structures including towers and indoor and outdoor
climbing walls. It may also relate to any other structure such as a building, silo, etc. The Artificial
environment is usually set up with attachment points or there are tie down points available (building
components, columns etc) which can be used for anchoring to. Although artificial surface is usually
completely vertical and may have its own hazards it is free of the hazards of ‘rock fall’ and loose debris
inherent in the natural cliff environment.
Natural surface relates to outdoor cliff environments. A cliff has been defined as a vertical or near vertical
drop in excess of 9 meters in height. It seems to not matter if the cliff was ‘mad made’ as in a quarry or other
excavation, nor whether there are installed anchors or not.

CHAPTER 3 MINIMAL IMPACT PRACTICES
Increasing numbers of people are engaging in mountain sports, which take them into pristine and fragile
environments. This increased use results in rising impacts on land, water, plants and animals- even entire
cultures. Once damage is done it can sometimes be impossible to repair. Damaging the land and plant life
can happen very easily. Creeks and slopes are eroded; scree slopes and vegetation are readily disturbed
and wildlife is increasingly threatened by human incursions into natural areas and important habitats. Many
animals are easily stressed by human contact and populations can be altered over time. The most common
causes of stress to animals are approaching too closely, feeding, disrupting travel routes and poor waste
management.
The following three simple environmental management practices can be utilised easily and should be
common practice for outdoor recreation participants;
a. Avoid placing equipment across walking paths and in communal areas
b. Carry a rubbish bag and use it
c. Pick up litter / Use the rubbish bins
d. Keep to designated walking tracks
e. Interact kindly with other users
Other practices that are more site or activity dependant include:
 Respect closures and rehabilitation areas.
 When travelling off trails, avoid sensitive areas.
 Respect private property, local policies and regulations.
 When camping, use designated fire places or fuel stoves.
 When abseiling or climbing use natural or removable protection whenever possible.
 Consider local ethics.
 Use slings or carpet to protect trees when rigging anchors.
 Respect the rights of others, try not to dominate an area, remove gear when not in use.
 Take all rubbish out with you; conduct a site inspection before leaving.
 Use toilet facilities provided. If none are available, dig a ‘cat hole’ a minimum of 15cm deep and
more than 100m away from water sources and camp sites.
CHOOSING AN ACTIVITY SITE ( NATURAL CLIFF)
Whilst planning is not an integral part of your course at this level, it is helpful for safety reasons to
understand some of the basic activity planning considerations. When choosing a Natural site for abseiling,
considerations need to be given to the suitability of the site for our purposes. The following acronym should
be used for site suitability:
S H A A P E T
S tability of the cliff area at the top, bottom and also on the face of the cliff
H eight of the cliff (vertical); to be called a cliff it must be greater than 9m high.
A-ccess to the site both top and bottom for ease of rigging and walking back to the top
A-vailability of suitable anchors to use for rigging such as trees, rocks or attachment points
After assessing the composition of the site, the following must also be considered:
P-ermission needs to be sought from land owners or appropriate authorities before entering a site.
E-nvironmental considerations of the site, including likely weather, sun direction and environmental impact
issues or cultural aspects of the site should be assessed in your planning.
T-echnical requirements of the site; the site must not outstrip the ability of the participants or the capability of
our available equipment

CHAPTER 4 SAFETY ON SITE
It is our duty to ensure your safety on site, whist abseiling, belaying and watching our training and
demonstrations of techniques. For this reason we implement safety measures to limit the activity risks. You
are required to adhere to these safety rules and to obey the direction of instructors at all times to ensure your
safety.
Although relatively easy to accomplish correctly and safely, abseiling is potentially hazardous statistically.
An abseiler is often exposed to great heights and potential of a fall make them totally dependent on their
anchor system and the ability to use their equipment correctly. Constant practice can develop good
technique but can also lead to overconfidence and carelessness. Exhilaration can also encourage
hazardous technique.
RESPONDING TO EMERGENCIES
If, during the session, you notice that something isn’t safe or someone is in danger you should
take reasonable action to rectify the situation.
Shouting or alerting people to danger works well if there is an imminent threat such as rock fall or
any other emergency that requires an immediate response to move away from the danger. But, when
working at height, this can sometimes be counterproductive. For example, shouting to alert someone that
they are at the cliff edge and not on a safety line may alarm them and create a panic situation that may lead
to them tripping or actually falling.
Always consider the REACTION that your ACTION may cause before you respond to an emergency.
You will need to adopt different responses (drills) and ways of thinking to enable you to be a safe activity
leader. For instance I once watched an instructor sitting on a ledge, at height, on a mountain, who knocked
their drink bottle over and as it rolled towards the edge and fell off the ledge just called out ‘below!’ to alert
anyone below rather than chase it and endanger themselves by possibly stumbling after it!
When at height or near a drop, our first thought must always be to ‘make safe’, firstly to check that you are
safe and then to consider the safety of the other party. Check out the following ‘MAPS’ protocol
M)ake safe A)ssess P)rioritise S)tabilise
Always observe the safety rules and ‘control measures’ listed in the next section: Are you wearing a helmet
(in the rock fall area)? Are you, on belay and/or attached to a safety line, if at height?
As a novice, we expect that your best course of action should you notice a safety breach or hazard is to alert
the instructor who will take the necessary steps to make safe.
As you study the course and become competent in activity techniques and proper responses to emergencies
you will be able to respond appropriately to rectify situations without causing alarm or incident.
Incident Occurs
Make
Safe
Victim
Group
Self
Assess
Situation
Victim
Resources
Prioritise
Tasks to effect
rescue and
recovery
Stabilise
Rescue/Treat victim
Group to safe
ground

ABSEILING HAZARDS AND CONTROL MEASURES
Control measures are safety guidelines, actions that we take to minimise the possibility of injury occurring.
The following actions should always be adhered to. Like a drill, remember them and train yourself in
responding with the appropriate action without thought. That’s how we keep safe!
Here is a list of the general hazards that exist in abseiling & rockclimbing and (following each) is a safety
guideline that we employ to ensure you are not injured:
Fall from height -
1. You must always attach to a safety line when standing at the top of the cliff so you don’t fall off!
2. And, we never abseil unless you’re on belay (that means we have another person protecting our
descent), to stop you falling if you lose your balance or let go of the rope
Injury from rock fall
3. You must wear a helmet while abseiling & / or
4. When standing within 4 meters of the bottom of the cliff
5. Move away from the cliff as soon as you can to minimise the time that you are susceptible to rock fall
6. Shout ‘ROCK’ if you see a rock falling/or dislodge a rock
Burns from the rope
7. Wear clothing that covers your midriff to prevent the rope running on your bare skin
8. Wear gloves to protect your hands
9. Abseil slowly at a controlled pace
10. Keep your gloves on when you remove the Figure 8 from the rope after abseiling
Exposure to Hot Weather Sunburn and dehydration
1. Wear sun-smart clothing and a hat and sunscreen (We recommend you wear a light weight, long
sleeved, collared shirt in the heat)
2. Drink water throughout the session
Exposure to Wet or Cold Weather
1. Wear warm clothing that van be ‘layered’, and always bring a raincoat or jumper (just in case)
2. Take care on wet tracks
Becoming entangled in the ropes
3. Avoid wearing shorts that have a drawstring at the waist, as the string can become entangled in the
descending device
4. Don’t wear loose clothing or jewellery that might become snagged in the rope.
5. If you have long hair, you must tie it back so it can’t get caught in the descending device
To ensure your harness and all of your equipment is correctly fitted
6. You must do a six point check EVERY TIME before you abseil
To ensure people respond appropriately to key actions
7. Always use the correct safety calls
Injury from slipping or falling as you ascend the walking trail (or ladders)
1. Take care on the trail
Be cautious of ladders and inartificial structures be particularly careful of:
1. Banging your head on the ladder cage or on the trap door
2. Not falling down an open trap door and
3. Don’t lean or sit on the banisters at each level (you might fall off!)

4. Artificial structures easily become home to stinging wasps and bees and other insects……be
particularly careful of unwelcome bugs!
THREE CRITICAL SAFETY RULES
Whilst learning abseiling, the following three CRITICAL safety rules will maximise your safety:
1. Never, approach the edge unless you are attached to a safety line.
2. Never, detach your own safety line; let the instructor do that until you are fully qualified to
complete your own checks.
3. Always keep an eye out for your own and others safety and look after the equipment; as if your
life depends on it.
STANDARD ABSEILING CALLS
Safety calls are used as a protocol that allows an appropriate response to a situation by using key words.
The call ‘ROCK!’ is used no matter what is actually falling off the cliff because it will solicit the correct
response: that people below move out of danger! You should always use the calls so that like a drill, you
remember them and train yourself in responding with the appropriate action without thought. That’s how we
keep safe!
SAFETY CALL MEANING ACTION
”Below” or “Rock” Debris or other matter has been dislodged
from the cliff
Stand clear! Take immediate steps to
protect yourself from being struck.
”Rope” or “Rope Below” I intend to deploy my rope. Move away from the fall zone.
“On-Belay” I am ready to stop you if you slip. Abseiler commences descent.
“Abseiling” I am about to commence my descent On bottom belay; Hold rope slack in both
hands and be prepared to arrest an
abseiler’s fall.
“Slack” I want you give me more slack in the belay
rope
Belayer cautiously feeds some slack
“Take in” I want you to make the belay a bit tighter Belayer tightens the belay rope
“Hold” I want you to hold the belay tight to prevent me
falling
Belayer locks off the belay
“In control” I have become stopped on belay and
I am ready to resume abseiling under my own
control
Belayer checks that the abseiler has hold
of the control end of the rope and is in the
correct stance. ONLY THEN gently eases
control to the abseiler
”Rope Clear” or “Off Rope” I have disconnected myself from the abseil
rope
The next person may now prepare to
descend.
“Safe” I have reached the ground. Disconnect belay system.
ALTERNATE COMMUNICATION METHODS
There will be times when calls will not be the most efficient method of communication eg; the cliff could be
too high for effective verbal communication or the wind may be blowing too hard to allow voice
communication. Some alternate methods of communicating include:
 UHF radios
 Hand Signals
 Whistles or ‘Tugs’ on the rope

ABSEILING 6 POINT CHECK
In the abseiling session, you will be taught to use the five point safety check. Before you abseil you should
always complete the safety check and repeat it OUT LOUD so that your instructor knows that you are
remembering it fully and correctly.
Here are the main points which will become clear when you attend practical training.
 Anchors: Confirm that anchors are connected and equalized.
 Buckles: Confirm harness buckles are adjusted correctly and back threaded.
 Carabiners: Confirm that the carabiner gate is screwed shut and won’t open and that the ‘pointy’ end of
the carabiner is facing forward with the gate up.
 Descending Device: Confirm the descending device is not crossed and that the ‘smiley face’ is up!
 Everything else: Confirm helmet / gloves are on, long or loose clothing tucked in, hair secured and that
you are confident and prepared for the decent.
 Friend – check your belayer your belayer checks you.
NOTE: If you are controlling a top-rope belay then extend the above drill to cover BOTH the abseiler and
your own harness, carabiners and belay device.
ROCKCLIMBING HAZARDS AND CONTROL MEASURES
Control measures are safety guidelines, actions that we take to minimise the possibility of injury occurring.
The following actions should always be adhered to. Like a drill, remember them and train yourself in
responding with the appropriate action without thought. That’s how we keep safe!
Here is a list of the general hazards that exist in Climbing and (following each) is a safety guideline that we
employ to ensure you are not injured:
Fall from height
11. Never commence climbing unless you’re on belay (that means we have another person protecting
our descent), to stop you falling to the ground
12. Do a “pre climb” check before you climb to make sure our harness and all of our equipment is
correctly fitted
13. Use climbing safety calls to ensure that the climber and belayer are in communication throughout the
climbing sequence.
Injury from rock fall
14. You must wear a helmet while climbing & / or belaying and
15. When standing within 4 meters of the bottom of the cliff
16. Move away from the cliff as soon as you can to minimise the time that you are susceptible to rock fall
17. Shout ‘ROCK’ if you see a rock falling/or dislodge a rock
Burns from the rope
18. Lower the climber slowly at a controlled pace
Exposure to Hot Weather Sunburn and dehydration
8. Wear sun-smart clothing and a hat and sunscreen (We recommend you wear a light weight, long
sleeved, collared shirt in the heat)
9. Drink water throughout the session
Exposure to Wet or Cold Weather
3. Wear warm clothing that van be ‘layered’, and always bring a raincoat or jumper (just in case)

4. Take care on wet tracks
Becoming entangled in the ropes
10. Avoid wearing shorts that have a drawstring at the waist, as the string can become entangled in the
belaying device
11. Don’t wear loose clothing or jewellery that might become snagged in the rope.
12. If you have long hair, you must tie it back so it can’t get caught
To ensure your harness and all of your equipment is correctly fitted
13. You must do a six point check EVERY TIME before you climb
To ensure people respond appropriately to key actions
14. Always use the correct safety calls
Injury from slipping or falling as you ascend the walking trail (or ladders)
2. Take care on the trail
Be cautious of ladders and inartificial structures be particularly careful of:
5. Banging your head on the ladder cage or on the trap door
6. Not falling down an open trap door and
7. Don’t lean or sit on the banisters at each level (you might fall off!)
8. Artificial structures easily become home to stinging wasps and bees and other insects……be
particularly careful of unwelcome bugs!
SAFETY WHILST CLIMBING
There are some safety considerations that need to be applied when climbing. (What more!!!....). Climbing
is also about falling. You will miss a move or get tired and fall from the climb. It’s not about falling to the
ground; your belayer will hold you on the rope, but it’s about coming off the climb and dangling around
until you regain the rock or get lowered down!
1. Avoid straying too far left or right from the climb.
This will avoid a potential dangerous pendulum swing.
2. Keep the rope between your arms whilst climbing.
If the climber fell and the rope was outside their arms it could cause the climber to loose balance and
lead to injuries, sometimes pulling the shoulders one way and the pelvis the other way due to the
tension on the rope. Avoid falling with the rope behind your shoulder or arm.
3. Be aware of the ‘danger zone’; this is a distance between the climber and the ground or a ledge that is
less than the anticipated stretch of the rope.
A dynamic rope is designed to stretch to absorb the forces associated with a fall. This stretch is
approximately 5% of the total rope length between the climber and the belayer. So, if there is 40
meters of rope out (5% of this is 2 meters). Then the danger zone is any time that the climber is within
2 meters of the ground of a ledge.
4. If (when) you fall during a climb, adopt a ‘cat-like’ stance (arms and legs bent and out in front of the
body) and push away from the cliff.
This will allow you to fend off the rock and avoid falling directly down and onto any protrusions in the
cliff face.
5. As a climber, never hold onto the rope during a fall.
This will encourage your body to spin around and may result in injuries from hitting the cliff face.
During a fall the belayer should hold the person till the climber has stopped moving. Once this has

occurred the climber can make the decisions if they wish to complete the climb or be lowered to the
ground.
6. When the climber gets to the top of the climb
Belayers; when lowering a climber, firstly check that the rope is not twisted. At this stage the belayer
should remove all the slack from the climbing rope and hold the belay in the locked position. Once the
climber has signalled they are ready to be lowered, lower them slowly whilst maintain 2 hands on the
control end of the rope.
When lowering a climber you must lower slowly and carefully; go slowly so that the climber can ‘find
their feet’ and NOT swing or feel like they are falling. This is the most dangerous part of the climb, the
climber’s full weight is on the belayer and the belayer must control the device to ensure a steady safe
descent for the climber. It is at this time that you should ensure the instructor is standing by until you
gain confidence in your technique.
Climbers; before you let go, to be lowered back down by your belayer; always stop and check that your
belayer is ready to take your weight.
THREE CRITICAL SAFETY RULES
No surprise then that our main 3 main safety for climbing are about falling!!
4. Always, keep the climbing rope between your arms. If the rope runs over your shoulder and
you fall, you could twist your spine
5. Be aware of the ‘danger zone’. While climbing, even with the belay held tight, the climbing
rope will stretch when the climber falls; approximately 5%, so about 1 to 2 meters with the
rope out fully.
So, whenever the climber is within 1 or 2 meters of a ledge or the ground the belayer must be
extra vigilant to hold the fall to stop the climber landing on the ledge or ground.
6. Do not climb too far either side of where the rope is anchored at the top of the climb so that
you avoid a ‘pendulum swing’ if you fall from the climb.
CLIMBER 6 POINT CHECK (THE “PRE CLIMB CHECK”)
Before climbing we always perform a cross-check between the climber and the belayer to ensure that the
equipment is set properly and both parties are safe and ready to climb. This is commonly known as the
cross-check and completed by both parties as follows;
You should always complete the safety check and repeat it OUT LOUD so that your instructor knows that
you are remembering it fully and correctly.
Here are the main points which will become clear when you attend practical training.
 Anchors: Confirm that anchors are connected and equalized.
 Buckles: Confirm harness buckles are adjusted correctly and back threaded.
 Carabiners: Confirm that the carabiner gate is screwed shut and won’t open and that the ‘pointy’ end of
the carabiner is facing forward with the gate up.
 Descending Device: Confirm the descending device is not crossed and that the ‘smiley face’ is up!
 Everything else: Confirm helmet / gloves are on, long or loose clothing tucked in, hair secured and that
you are confident and prepared for the decent.
 Friend – check your belayer your belayer checks you ;

Climber – Is checked by belayer;
Wearing Helmet
Harness done up
Tied in to rope correctly
No twist in the rope
Belayer – Is checked by climber;
Wearing helmet
Harness done up
Tied down to belay point
Belay assembled correctly
No twist in the rope
CLIMBING SAFETY CALLS
CLIMBING COMMENCEMENT SEQUENCE OF CALLS
Although the climber and belayer are usually standing right next to each other at commencement of climbing
we still engage a sequence of safety calls prior to commencing climbing. This sequence is common to top-
rope climbing and lead climbing and is designed to ensure that;
The climber doesn’t commence climbing before the belayer is ready to arrest a fall.
The sequence is as follows;
CALLER CALL MEANING / ACTION
1. Climber calls ‘ON ROPE’ I’m tied to the rope
2. Belayer then pulls rope tight on the climber
3. Once the rope is
tight on the climber
the cClimber calls
‘THAT”S ME’ The rope is tight on me to my satisfaction (some
like the rope tight, others a bit loose)
4. Belayer checks the belay is assembled correctly
5. Belayer calls ‘ON BELAY’ Belay is connected and belayer is ready to
belay
6. Climber calls CLIMBING Climber is commencing ascent
7. Belayer calls CLIMB AWAY Acknowledges that belayer is aware that the
climber is climbing
ALTERNATE COMMUNICATION METHODS
There will be times when calls will not be the most efficient method of communication eg; the cliff could be
too high for effective verbal communication or the wind may be blowing too hard to allow voice
communication. Some alternate methods of communicating include:
 UHF radios
 Hand Signals
 Whistles or ‘Tugs’ on the rope

CLIMBER, COMMUNICATION CALLS
Throughout a climb, the climber may wish to advise the belayer of particular circumstances. For instance, if
the climber is about to fall, he’ll call ‘Take in’ or ‘watch me’!!!
Sometimes the climber needs the rope to be slack and sometimes the climber might dislodge a rock and
need the belayer to watch out! Standard calls are used to avoid confusion. Like any drill or code word,
these become second nature and thereby are a safe and efficient means of communication.
You should learn these calls and use only them to communicate your immediate needs whilst climbing.
Climber call Meaning
TAKE IN or UP
ROPE
Pull the rope tight
SLACK Give me some slack on the rope
WATCH ME I’m probably going to fall, prepare to hold me
HOLD I’m falling off ! Lock the belay
ROCK or BELOW Look out! You are in danger of being struck by a rock or another falling
object.
SAFE I’m OK now
OFF ROPE I’m disconnected from the rope and no longer need a belay

CHAPTER 4 EQUIPMENT FAMILIARITY
Abseiling equipment is constructed using the highest standard of materials available; often these materials
are the product of leading edge technology. All abseiling equipment has a limited useable lifespan.
As a general rule: the abseiler should have tight fitting rather than loose fitting clothes. All clothes should be
tucked in under the harness to minimize the chance of becoming caught in the device. Thick clothing like
jumpers should be put on after the harness is fitted correctly.
The following items are considered PERSONAL EQUIPMENT; that used by each individual abseiler
PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
There is no specific PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) that is designed for abseiling. Common sense
however and Occupational Health & Safety dictates that we should dress appropriately for the hazards that
we might expect to find onsite.
A long sleeved, collared shirt is recommended for outdoor activities to minimise your exposure to the sun.
Also, ensure that you midriff is covered so that the rope doesn’t run on your bare skin.
A hat is advised while you are watching lessons, (but not under your helmet).
Try to avoid wearing shorts that have a drawstring at the waist, as the string can become entangled in the
descending device.
Long hair, jewellery, loose earrings, chains and necklaces can all get jammed in descending devices.
Ensure all these things are removed before abseiling.
If you have long hair, you must tie it back so it can’t get caught in the descending device
Comfortable, closed, lace up footwear is recommended, such as running shoes or hiking boots.
ABSEILING & ROCKCLIMBING EQUIPMENT
GLOVES
Leather gloves are recommended as they reduce the chance of friction burns from the rope and improve
comfort.
HELMETS
Recommended more for rock fall protection than for accidentally hitting your head
on the cliff during the activity – helmets are sometimes met with disdain. The
problem is that if you sustain a blow to the head, you’d wish you were wearing
one. Think about it! Use helmets whilst abseiling or standing at the base of the
cliff.
When selecting a helmet, try and choose a helmet that fits comfortably and does
not sit too high or low on your head. The helmet should allow adjustment so there
is no movement from side to side and have a chin strap to secure it from moving
excessively forward or back on the head.

HARNESSES
There are numerous kinds of harnesses. For abseiling / climbing, those that are based on a belt and leg
loop system are recommended. Most modern harnesses are designed to leave a climber in a `sitting’
position after a fall. This can only be guaranteed in all situations however, if the harness is used in
conjunction with a chest harness.
On attaching to the rope it is imperative that you tie-in through both the waist band and leg loops of the
harness. Additionally, due to the slip ability of nylon on most other materials, it is essential that straps be
doubled back on themselves at buckles and fasteners.
Some harnesses are designed with self-locking buckles. These buckles are designed so there is no need to
double back the buckles. On purchasing a harness clarify the type of buckles on the harness with the
supplier before use.
FOOTWEAR
The climber should have tight fitting rather than loose fitting clothes. All clothes should be tucked in under
the harness to minimize the chance of becoming caught in the device. Thick clothing like jumpers should be
put on after the harness is fitted correctly.
Comfortable, closed footwear with ankle support is recommended. Shoes with grip are most suited.
Specialist climbing shoes are very common now and most people, even beginners, use climbing shoes.
With flat ‘sticky rubber’ soles and a tight fit, climbing shoes allow us to use footholds that any other footwear
does not. You can use small ‘knobbles’ as secure holds, even stick to the flat face of the rock utilising a
method called ‘smearing’.
I personally advocate learning to climb low grade climbs in ordinary shoes prior to progressing to climbing
shoes. But, that’s only my opinion.
Here are a few hints regarding shoe selection;
Style
There are some really extreme climbing shoe styles. Some which force your foot down and in like a ballet
dancer; there are great for highly technical climbing – not for you (you are a beginner otherwise you wouldn’t
be reading this book)
There are shoes with Velcro instead of laces. Get ones with laces. Velcro can wear out.
Get a ‘beginner’ shoe. Don’t be put off by the term as a beginner shoe is a great all rounder that will do
everything that you want at this stage of your climbing career.
Belay Loop

Size
Climbing shoes are designed to be tight. So, you don’t need to purchase a pair that is ‘two sizes smaller than
your normal shoes’, as is often advised. All shoes will vary in size according to the design of the shoe and
climbing shoes vary quite a lot between styles and manufacturers so, here’s how to pick the right size.
Back the laces off completely and put your foot into the shoe. Push your toes right up to the end and, if there
is a small amount of space at the back of the shoe between the shoe and your heel then you have the right
‘length’ or size of shoe in that style/brand.
Now, if your toes are totally scrunched up the shoe is too narrow for you. These shoes will cause you pain
and suffering. Shoes don’t stretch in length, only in width. In this case go to another brand or style.
Width
If your toes are held firmly in the shoe then do up the laces. With your foot held firmly there should be about
a centimetre (or more) of exposed tongue between where the lacing holes are. Any less than this and when
the shoe stretches (sideways) you won’t be able to do it up.
Heel cup
Now, our last measure of suitability is the heel cup. Some climbing shoes have a deep heel cup some a
shallow heel cup. As everyone’s heels are slightly different then you’ll need to find a heel cup that suits your
foot size.
If the heel cup is too deep then you will have space between your heel and the shoe which will make the
heel squishy and affect your climbing. You will also, in the case, probably get the top of the heel cup digging
into your Achilles tendon and causing blisters etc.
If the heel is too shallow, the shoe may pull away from the bottom of the arch of your foot and cause
squishiness there. This will also affect your climbing.
So, a shoe that fits your foot lengthways doesn’t cramp your toes and forms around your heel and arch like a
glove is the one for you.
CARABINERS
A carabiner is a metal link or shackle that allows rapid connection of ropes
into climbing/abseiling equipment. Note that the gate is spring loaded and
should snap closed under its own force.
When we attach the descending device to our harness we use an ‘offset
D’ locking carabiner, which is designed so the gate can be locked with a
screw mechanism (see diagram). This feature provides greater security
and prevents the carabiner from being accidentally loaded while the gate is
open.
There are other types of carabiners that are used in different applications.
You will become familiar with these as you progress with your course.
The lifespan of a carabiner is limited only by how well it is cared for and maintained.
Dropping a carabiner is one way to cause its early retirement! Steel carabiners are much
stronger than alloy and can withstand more abuse, although this is not an excuse to mistreat
them.

Carabiners come in many different shapes and sizes.
Carabiners can be purchased in either Steel or Alloy. As Steel carabiners are much more resilient than Alloy
carabiners they are used when there is a possibility of high wear (such as in top-rope climbing rigging) or
danger dirt or dust getting in the gate parts (such as the carabiner at the end of a safety line). Alloy is
resilient enough for most applications and is much lighter and is therefore better to carry. We use alloy
carabiners almost exclusively in recreational abseiling and climbing.
Above you will see the range of common carabiner shapes all of which can be obtained in either ‘plain’ gate
(non-locking) and screw gate (locking) types.
We always use locking carabiners when the connection is a part of our rigging or ‘life support’.
‘Non locking’ or Plain gate carabiners are rarely used outside of lead-climbing applications except as
‘accessory biners’ to hang gear off on your harness.
The carabiner has a ‘Major Axis’ the long axis along the spine (back) of the carabiner and a ‘Minor Axis’; the
length normally measured from the gate opening to the spine.
All manufacturers are required to mark the various strengths on the major axis of the carabiner. Note that
the markings represent the ultimate breaking strength and not the safe working load. The strengths appear
present; one representing the gate closed strength and the other with the gate open. Gate closed
strengths should be at least 20.5 KN (most have at least 21KN) to pass UIAA/CEN criteria.
Markings found on carabiners are interpreted in the following manner:
L or N = Tested under the ‘light’ criteria / tested under the
‘normal’ criteria.
6KN ↕ = Rated strength when loaded across the minor axis
(i.e., cross-loading).
25KN ↔ = Rated strength when loaded along the major axis
(with the gate closed). In this case, the rated strength is 25 KN or
approximately 2500 Kg.
‫ﮟ‬ 10KN = Rated strength when loaded with the gate open. In
this case, the rated strength is 10KN or approximately 1000 Kg.
F0897 = Serial number. This ensures the product is traceable
and is a requirement under CEN.
A carabiner achieves maximum strength when it is loaded along the major axis with the gate closed and locked. The
weakest part of a carabiner is the gate. If the carabiner is loaded across the gate, there is a danger of it failing.
DESCENDING AND BELAYING DEVICES
To enable a person to perform an abseil descent (or belay a climber) in a controlled and purposeful
manner, the rope must feed through a mechanical ‘break’. This device, a descending/belay device creates
friction by feeding the rope through narrow slots or bends incorporated into the design thus allowing us to
slow our stop our descent with little or no strain. Descending/belay devices can be classified according to
their principle design and shape:

Generally, descending devices can be classified into 5 categories:
1. Circular (e.g. Figure 8, Harpoon).
2. Planular (e.g. Stitch Plate).
3. Tubular (e.g. ATC, Pyramid, Bug).
4. In-Line Adjustable (e.g. Whale Tail, Gold Tail, Rack).
5. Auto or Self-locking (Gri gri)
6. Auto-Locking (e.g. SRT Double Brake, Petzl Stop, Gri Gri).
Note- If a belay device or a carabiner is dropped from height it MUST be retired. This is because
the alloy may fracture and the device become dangerous to use.
The most common type used by abseilers is the circular (i.e., ‘ring’) design. It also has the common name of
figure 8 (because it has the shape of an 8). Unfortunately, the figure 8 tends to twist the rope and it does
not dissipate heat very well. The planar and tubular designs are well suited for abseiling and climbing since
they can accommodate two ropes, are light weight and dissipate heat rapidly.
Characteristics of descending devices
Type
Weight Heat Dissipation
Relative braking
power Primary use
Circular or Ring Light Poor Adequate Abseiling
Plate Light Good High Climbing/Belaying
Tube Light Good High Climbing/Belaying
Auto Locking Heavy Good High
Abseiling / Climbing /
Industrial
Inline Heavy Excellent Variable Abseiling / Caving

Note- It is important to monitor the wear on devices. Devices will wear as the rope rubs
through them, eventually the device will become so worn that it will not apply sufficient
friction to the rope to prevent a fall or hold your weight. It will not always noticeable that a
device is worn, so monitor your devices for wear on surfaces that contact the rope.
The most common type of descending device used by abseilers is the figure 8 device (so named because it
has the shape of an 8, see picture). The figure 8 tends to twist the rope and it
does not dissipate heat very well but it has adequate breaking capability, is easy to
use and very robust making it ideal for novices. Other designs are well suited for
abseiling and climbing since they can accommodate two ropes, are light weight
and dissipate heat rapidly.
We also recommend the Figure 8 as a top-belay device primarily as can be rigged
to have less friction than the abseiler’s device and thus not drag at the rope and
slow the abseiler’s descent. Despite this, the device is still easy to lock off,
manage in an emergency and hold a fall
A range of tubular and planar devices are
shown here. The top left and the red device
are very popular (ATC and ‘bug’
respectively) whilst the top right and bottom
left are an more advanced type of device
that are modified to enhance their abseiling
capability with the top right hand device
being also usable as a rope ‘break’. The
bottom right hand side device is a ‘spring
sticht plate’ (planar device) an early model
not so common these days as the tube
devices are easier to manage.
Note- It is important to monitor the wear on devices. Devices will wear as the rope rubs
through them, eventually the device will become so worn that it will not apply sufficient
friction to the rope to prevent a fall or hold your weight. It will not always noticeable that a
device is worn, so monitor your devices for wear on surfaces that contact the rope.

GROUP EQUIPMENT
The following items are considered GROUP EQUIPMENT; that shared and used by everyone
ROPES
Modern ropes are made from synthetic material (nylon). With its superior strength and elasticity, nylon
provides the security and reliability that today’s abseilers /
climbers take for granted.
A kern mantle rope is a design containing two elements,
the kern (the core or interior) and the mantle (the sheath or
outer). The core is the main load bearing element. The
primary function of the sheath is to protect the core and to
provide resistance to abrasion damage.
Modern climbing/abseiling ropes must pass stringent
performance criteria to ensure quality and safety.
There are two main types of ropes available for climbing
and abseiling purposes:
STATIC and DYNAMIC
Static ropes are the preferred choice for abseiling and
rescue applications because they do not stretch very much
and as such allow for a steady and predictable descent.
Static ropes can become stiff and unmanageable thus
making them less preferable in belay situations.
Dynamic ropes on the other hand are best suited to climbing as they are designed to stretch when the
climber falls and thus provide a ‘cushioned catch’ by absorbing the impact force created when the climber is
‘caught’ by the rope. Dynamic ropes are also softer to the touch, easier to tie and handle much better than
static ropes.
For these reasons dynamic ropes are often used for top-belay of an abseiler as they run more smoothly
through the belay device and are easy to tie and untie.
The life expectancy of a rope depends on usage and how well it is cared for and maintained. With diligent
care and maintenance they may last up to 5 years (used most weekends).
Rope
Category
Primary Use Characteristics Typical Length/ Diameter
Static Abseiling.
Rescue.
Tightly woven sheath.
Low elasticity.
Stiffer than dynamic.
Dense, parallel core element
Provide a fixed and stable
anchor point.
Standard length = variable.
Standard diameter = 11mm
(other diameters are available).
Dynamic Climbing. Loose weave sheath.
High elasticity.
Supple (good handling).
Standard length = 50m (55m and
60m ropes are now available).
Variable diameter (7.8 – 11mm).

Twisted or braided core
element.
Absorb repeated shock
loadings.
The exact diameter to purchase
will depend on your climbing
objectives.
SELECTING A ROPE
When purchasing a rope for any activity you must consider the following:
1. If the rope has the appropriate approvals eg UIAA or CEN.
2. The type of rope either static or dynamic.
3. The rope is the appropriate diameter.
4. The rope is long enough to reach safe ground (single pitch applications).
EDGE PROTECTION
Edge protectors are used to wrap around the rope protect the abseil and belay lines from dirt and rock
abrasion as the ropes move over the edge of the cliff, they also reduce friction. Edge protection can come
in various forms including: edge rollers, canvas rope sheaths, edge protection racks, sacks, bags and pulleys.
SLINGS
Slings are used to attach the rope to the anchors and are also used as safety lines. Slings can be
constructed from nylon, spectra or kevlar. Slings are used to connect between anchors and rigging, to
attach you to a safe point when belaying or to an anchor point if on a multi pitch climb.
`Sewn’ slings are a good idea, where the sling is of a fixed length and is sewn using special thread, and is
actually much stronger than a sling of the same material that has been tied with a knot, as below.
You can also construct your own slings by tying a tape knot in nylon climbing tape. If you do make your own
slings, be sure to undo the knots after each use as dirt and grit will work its way into the knot and damage
the tape.

CHAPTER 5 PREPARING TO ABSEIL
In preparation for abseiling, you will need to fit and adjust your
 Harness
 Helmet
 Figure 8 and Locking Carabiner
Put on some Gloves and do a ‘6 point check’!
HARNESS
Every harness made/brand is different. Here is an overview of what to watch out for when you put the
harness on.
Your harness has a material loop that joins the leg loops to the waist band. This loop is called the belay
loop. (See the picture in the previous section). IF you pick up the harness by the belay loop you will be able
to locate the waist band and leg loops and check them before you commence fitting the harness.
When you pick up your harness, make sure it’s not twisted or ‘inside out’. Make sure that the waist band is
not twisted and that it’s is threaded through the buckle.
Check that the harness is not damaged; ie that there are no tears in the webbing and that the buckles are
functional.
Make sure the leg loops are adjusted out to maximum size and that they are not twisted and that the buckles
are on the outside.
The harness should be worn with the waist band at navel-height and just as tight as a normal belt. Do the
waist band up first while the leg loops are loose as this will make fitting easier.
The leg loops must be fitted tightly. It is the leg loops that support your weight and if they are loose you may
find that the harness will ride up a squash your stomach!
HELMET
The helmet is worn to protect you from rock fall, whilst abseiling and whilst at the base of the cliff (within 4
meters of the rope is taken as being the rock fall danger zone). You must wear your helmet at all times
whilst abseiling or standing in the danger zone.
The helmet has a ‘nape strap’ at the back that you can adjust to your head size once you have it on. The
chin strap should be tight enough to stop the helmet falling off if you tilt you head back, but not too tight so as
to make it uncomfortable.
FIGURE 8 (DESCENDING DEVICE) AND CARABINER
You will use a figure 8 for most of your abseiling. The figure 8 is a robust device that allows you to abseil,
belay, and perform rescues. Although there are many other devices, (you will use several as well), it is the
figure 8 that we will use for this course.
We connect our carabiner through the harness, leg loops and waist band, just to the right of the belay loop.
We ensure that the gate of the carabiner is to the front and opens at the top
Connect your carabiner to the harness and clip your figure 8 into it by the small end.
GLOVES

Gloves are not mandatory but are highly recommended as they will help to lessen the risk of your getting
rope burn to your hands.
ABSEILING TECHNIQUE
http://www.canstockphoto.com/vector-clipart/mountaineering.html#file_view.php?id=7572740
Starting an abseil is usually the most difficult part, not only
psychologically but also physically.
If the abseiler is right-handed the rope should run down the
right side of the body. The right (back) hand is used for
braking. The left hand should rest lightly on the rope above
the descender or on the abseil loop. The hand should be kept
away from the abseil device, however, to avoid the possibility
of fingers becoming caught.
(NOTE: we recommend that left-handed persons abseil ‘right-
handed’. If you are left-handed please discuss this with your
instructor who with advise our reasoning)
FIRST, do a six point check!
Then walk slowly back towards the edge. There will be
maximum friction at this stage so lean your full weight back on the rope. That will make it easier to move
when over the edge.
STOP & GO!
Check your ability to ‘lock’ the rope by holding it against your hip. This is the STOP position and will allow
you to stop descending. Now lift the rope up and you will be able to move backwards.
THE EDGE
Your feet should be spaced wide enough apart to enable good balance as you work your way towards the
edge. The legs should not be bent.
Move over the edge: position the feet on the very edge of the cliff; Lean out to commit body weight to the
rope. If there is a ledge to step down on to, step onto it. This will make it easier for you get over the edge
and will allow you to sit in the harness.
POSTURE
Lean back until your legs are at the 4 o’clock position; (Imagining the body as a clock, the waist would be the
centre of the clock, the head would point to the direction of 12 o’clock and the feet would point to 4 o’clock).
Once you adopt this position your feet will be flat on the rock, your heels are on the cliff and you will have
maximum friction with the rock!
Remember, your legs should be straight, not bent.
Keep your feet about shoulder width apart to maintain balance and slowly and carefully walk down the cliff
face.
Co-ordinate foot movement with the feeding of the rope so as to maintain the ‘4 o’clock position.
To slow down or stop, pull the right hand down firmly and hold at the hip for maximum friction.
You should try to abseil at a slow, steady pace.
The best way to maintain balance when crossing obstacles such as ledges, slippery rocks, bollards, etc is to
maintain full weight on the rope, position the feet wide with legs at right angles to the rock and soles of the
feet in contact. If you have to negotiate an overhang then you might need to leap out from the cliff as you

allow some rope to slide through the descending device. If you do this, ensure that you clear the overhang
fully and don’t hit your head!
RECOVERY
Take a direct line (i.e. fall line) when abseiling. Avoid walking to the side. Gravity will dictate to take you
straight down and if you try to go to the side; a pendulum effect may result causing you to fall back to the
centre.
If you should fall to the side or whatever, don’t worry, you’re on belay and your instructor will prevent you
from falling.
Just regain your correct posture and hold the rope in the locked position. Once you’re ready to recommence
your descent, tell your instructor “In Control!” And they will ease you back on the rope so you can commence
abseiling again!
OBSTACLES
If the cliff is slippery, uneven or if there is a ledge or an overhang you will need to take care to maintain your
correct posture as you abseil.
SLIPPERY Cliff face If the cliff is wet and/or slippery then just make sure that you keep your heels down
and the whole sole of your shoe flat on the rock. Maintaining the 4 o’clock position will allow this, and keep
your weight pressing on your feet to increase the friction. Keep your feet apart to maintain sideways balance
and abseil cautiously.
UNEVEN Cliff face Your best action is to walk down the cliff slowly, rocking from side to side as you
place your feet, alternately, on stable points. Maintain the correct posture and do not overstep! Use the
friction generated by the correct posture (as above) to keep you from slipping and manage your balance as
you walk through the uneven section.
LEDGES Treat these just as you would treat a new cliff top. Stand on the edge of the ledge
and lower yourself until your heels press against the rock. This is easy, actually easier than the start,
because you will have a high departure angle
OVERHANGS The main danger of an overhang is that you might swing in below it and hit the lip of
the overhand…..so caution is required. Here’s how to easily manage an overhang:
 Place your feet right on the lip (feet apart for balance)
 Lower yourself down (without moving your feet)
 As soon as your head is a little lower than your feet your feet will naturally come away from the lip of
the overhang and you’ll swing underneath it!
 Just make sure you hold the rope tight as you swing below the lip.
GETTING OFF THE ROPE!
Once you reach the bottom of the cliff, take a minute to celebrate!
First thing is to disconnect the belay line by untying the knot. Once this is done call out, “CLEAR!’ so the
instructor can pull the rope back up.
Then, disconnect the rope from the descending device by taking the device out of your carabiner and
removing the rope. (it is important NOT to just pull the rope through the descender as, in opening the
carabiner, you will prevent it the gate from jamming). Clip the descender back into your carabiner so that you
don’t lose it and then,
Walk away from the rock fall ‘danger zone’.
The figure 8 (descending device) will be hot, as it has built up friction as you abseil. WEAR YOUR
GLOVES when you take the device off the rope and make sure the device doesn’t come into
contact with your skin until it cools.

BELAYING
Belay means to safeguard another person (or yourself) against a ground (impact) fall.
At this level of instruction, there are two categories of ‘belaying’; bottom belay (anchor or brake belay) and
top-belay
In either system, it is imperative that the belayer keeps watch on the abseiler throughout the
descent. Particularly when on bottom belay as it is only by the anchor person pulling the rope that
the abseiler can be protected.
SAFETY CALLS FOR BELAYING
Use the calls, ‘on belay’ and ‘abseiling’, between belayer and abseiler. And, use ‘In Control’ when the
abseiler is ready to take back control from the belayer after a fall.
It is necessary to communicate using the calls even on top-belay even though they are standing in front of
you.
On bottom belay when there is more than one rope in use, it is necessary to call out the rope number with
the call to ensure that the belayer has control of the correct rope. Ropes are numbered from left to right,
looking up at the cliff from below. So when the abseiler calls ‘Abseiling Line #’ the belayer picks up that rope
and shouts ‘On belay Line #’.
BOTTOM BELAY (USED UNDER DIRECT SUPERVISION OF AN INSTRUCTOR)
One method of belaying an abseiler is with a person at the bottom of the abseil,
holding the end of the abseil line. If a slip occurs, or control is lost by the abseiler, the
person below has only to pull down on the rope to STOP the abseiler from
descending.
By pulling tight on the rope, the belayer, replicates the fully locked position as if the
abseiler himself had locked the rope. See diagram.
As long as the belayer keeps the rope under tension, the abseiling device no longer
slips, and the abseiler is held into position. When the abseiler has regained control
and adopted the correct posture and is holding the rope in the ‘locked’ position, the
tension in the rope can be gradually relaxed by the belayer and the abseiler can
continue the abseil. The major hazard with a bottom belay is the potential exposure
to rock fall for the belayer. So, when bottom belaying, it is important to move away
from the direct path of the abseil and to wear a helmet to protect your head.
Do not coil the rope around your body….this will only impede your ability to
pull the rope tight. And, in this position you have to walk backwards to tighten
the rope: a dangerous action that may cause you to trip and lose control of
the belay.
HOW TO ARREST A FALL ON BOTTOM BELAY:
If the abseiler requests you to ‘hold’ them in place or they slip, you should pull the rope tight by pulling down
on the rope. Do not step backwards as you may trip. Remain stationary and pull the rope tight.
In bottom belay practice it is important to hold the rope LOOSE enough to enable easy descent of the
abseiler yet TIGHT enough so that you can pull the belay on quickly in case of an emergency. This ‘fine line’
can be learned by practice. You will easily learn to feel that the rope is the right tension. Tighter is better
than not, (as it errs on the side of safety). The abseiler will always tell you if you are pulling too tight!
Only give control back to the abseiler only when you can see that
 they are in the correct (4 o’clock) posture
 have control of the abseiling rope (held in the locked position)
 and they use the safety call, ‘in control’

 respond by calling, ‘on belay’.
One more tip for bottom belayers: PLEASE DON’T TREAD ON THE ROPE! Despite the problem of grinding
dust into the rope, quite often there can be glass or other debris in the dirt that might cut the rope. Please
tread carefully.
TOP BELAY (PREFERRED METHOD AND USED DURING TRAINING)
This method involves the use of a second rope anchored to the top of the cliff. This second (belay) rope
passes through a belay device which can be locked off to stop the abseiler from falling by the belayer, who is
positioned at the top of the cliff.
Top belay is more effective and safer than bottom belay as allows more direct control and the abseiler
cannot slip without the belayer noticing the movement in the rope.
The benefits of using top belay are;
1. That it generally makes it easier for the belayer to maintain control of the abseiler.
2. Utilised as a group control measure, one leader can look after a small group of inexperienced
abseilers without the assistance of another leader. (As they only abseil one at a time under direct
supervision)
3. Gives more reassurance to an inexperience abseiler because they have 2 ropes attached to their
harness.
4. Ease of rescue capability.
The disadvantages of top belay are;
1. Requires more equipment for the leader.
2. Often more experienced abseilers feel like they do not have full control.
3. More time consuming for each abseiler.
From the picture you can see;
1. The abseiler has a second rope connected
to them that is controlled by the instructor.
2. The instructor has attached the belay rope
to their harness (to keep the belay device
both up off the ground and close at hand)
3. The belay rope is tied into the abseiler,
well clear of the abseil line on his ‘off hand’
side.
Some institutions prefer to teach to top belay without connecting the top-belay to their harness.
This is common practice. As you are not actually ‘in the system,’ the rationale behind this is;
1. If the abseiler’s weight is taken by the belay so the abseiler’s weight is not placed onto the belayer.
2. You can easily ‘escape’ the belay if need be
The disadvantages are:
1. The belay device will drag on the ground as the abseiler descends over the cliff edge, and will
become dirty and possibly damaged
2. Eventually (as the rope stretches) the belay device may become out of reach of the belayer (if this
occurs the belay device may become locked and prevent the abseiler descending)
3. The belayer does not have immediate control of the belay device

4. You cannot easily respond to rescue an abseiler who has become stuck on the rope (this is
explained in the Vertical Rescue module but our preferred system of top-belay means that the
belayer is poised to affect a rescue immediately without the necessity of any additional equipment.
POSITIONING THE BELAY
Using a top belay efficiently requires training. When we top belay we do not want to have the belay device
too tight as this will in effect cause us to “lower the abseiler to the ground” rather than allowing them to abseil
under their own control. We want the abseiler to abseil but maintain enough control on the belay rope that if
the abseiler needs to be stopped it can be done swiftly.
The attachment of the belay device must allow for the device to be within easy reach of the operator yet far
enough towards the cliff that the operator cab see clearly to the bottom of the pitch whilst operating the
system.
Ordinarily, the top-belay will be rigged to the left hand side of the abseiler. This is the correct position when
belaying a right-handed abseiler. Left-handed abseilers are encouraged to abseil right handed to save re-
rigging the top belay for them. Usually this isn’t any bother, but if a person is nervous and unwilling to abseil
right-handed, you may need to compensate for them.
The delay device is attached to the top belay rope using an alpine butterfly knot that you can learn from the
appendix (or Google ‘Animated Knots by Grog’ on the internet who have a great web site for learning knots).
While you’re there look up the ‘bowline’ and ‘double fisherman’s knot’ as well because that’s the knot we use
to tie the rope to the abseiler.
SAFETY TIPS FOR UTILISING A TOP BELAY
1. DO NOT WEAR GLOVES. The use of gloves, as a belayer, will allow you to let the abseiler
descend much more quickly than is safe! Remember, if the abseiler is going fast enough to burn
your hand then they are going too fast.
2. It is common to want strain against the belay line and to pull back from the cliff: DON’T do this.
Instead let the device do its job, fully supported by the rigging.
3. Position yourself so that you can see over the edge of the cliff but NOT be balanced precariously
over the cliff.
4. You must be attached to your safety line and ensure that the safety line. Then, if you have to
disconnect from the belay system, you are still attached to your safety line.
ATTACHING TO THE ABSEILER
The top belay is connected directly to the belay loop of the abseiler’s harness on the ‘off hand’ side and thus
is well away from the abseiling rope so that it cannot become jammed or get burned by running against the
abseiling line. We tie the belay rope directly onto the abseiler’s belay loop with a bowline knot that is
secured by a ‘half double fisherman’s knot.
NOTE: Connection to the abseiler is sometimes made by clipping a carabiner, in the end of the
belay rope, into the belay loop. This can introduce potential danger into the system – if the
carabiner becomes undone – and as the carabiner is left attached to the belay rope when it is
pulled back up the cliff, the carabiner may become damaged or get snagged in a crack on the cliff.
BEFORE THE ABSEILER DEPARTS
You must do a ‘6 point check’ on the abseiler’s gear and on the belay equipment.

‘RESETTING’ THE BELAY
As the belayer pulls the belay rope back up after the abseiler has untied it, all of the lose rope is coiled
behind the instructor’s right hip. This allows the rope to come away cleanly from the coil as the abseiler
descends the cliff without getting tangled in itself or around the belayer.
HOW TO ARREST A FALL USING TOP-BELAY
If the abseiler requests you to ‘hold’ them in place or they slip, you should respond by holding the control end
of the rope tight, just as you did to stop yourself when abseiling. Make sure though that the belay is braced
against the anchors and that you are prepared to take the weight of the abseiler if they let go of their rope.
Only give control back to the abseiler only when you can see that
 they are in the correct (4 o’clock) posture
 have control of the abseiling rope (held in the locked position)
 and they use the safety call, ‘in control’
 respond by calling, ‘on belay’.
ESCAPING THE BELAY
If the abseiler becomes trapped on the rope (jammed belay device for instance) then the belayer
may affect a rescue only IF TRAINED TO DO SO. At this level of training you are not expected to
affect a rescue. If an emergency occurs, the course instructor will step in and direct you or take
over the belay.
If this happens you will have to ‘escape’ the belay. Escaping the belay is the term used to describe the
process of removing yourself from the belay system whilst maintaining the safety of the abseiler.
The objective is to take all of the slack out of the belay line. So you need to drop slowly down whilst taking in
rope. Once you have the belay locked off in this position you can disconnect from the system and,
KEEPING control of the top-belay rope, move aside for the instructor to step in.
TOP BELAY EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS;
You will be shown how to set up a top-belay in the practical session.
It is important to note that the following equipment is required in addition to the standard personal abseiling
equipment;
A top- belayer operator will need:
 2 x offset D carabiners
 A belaying device – often the figure 8 is used because it is easy to manage and does not lock on the
rope
 A safety line
It is preferable to use a dynamic rope when top belaying. This makes it easier for the belayer to manage the
rope and belay device. And, it is easier to tie and untie from the Abseiler. A Dynamic rope – long enough to
reach the ground after setting up the anchors – will be rigged ready for you to connect to.

KNOTS USED IN TOP-BELAY
Recommended website http://www.animatedknots.com
Alpine Butterfly knot
Bowline knot

CHAPTER 6 PREPARING TO CLIMB
In preparation for climbing, you will need to fit and adjust your
 Harness
 Helmet
 Shoes
 Belay Device
and do a ‘pre climb check’!
HARNESS
Every harness made/brand is different. Here is an overview of what to watch out for when you put the
harness on.
Your harness has a material loop that joins the leg loops to the waist band. This loop is called the belay
loop. (See the picture in the previous section). IF you pick up the harness by the belay loop you will be able
to locate the waist band and leg loops and check them before you commence fitting the harness.
When you pick up your harness, make sure it’s not twisted or ‘inside out’. Make sure that the waist band is
not twisted and that it’s is threaded through the buckle.
Check that the harness is not damaged; ie that there are no tears in the webbing and that the buckles are
functional.
Make sure the leg loops are adjusted out to maximum size and that they are not twisted and that the buckles
are on the outside.
The harness should be worn with the waist band at navel-height and just as tight as a normal belt. Do the
waist band up first while the leg loops are loose as this will make fitting easier.
The leg loops must be fitted tightly. It is the leg loops that support your weight and if they are loose you may
find that the harness will ride up a squash your stomach!
HELMET
The helmet is worn to protect you from rock fall, whilst belaying or climbing and whilst at the base of the cliff
(within 4 meters of the rope is taken as being the rock fall danger zone). You must wear your helmet at all
times whilst belaying or climbing or standing in the danger zone.
The helmet has a ‘nape strap’ at the back that you can adjust to your head size once you have it on. The
chin strap should be tight enough to stop the helmet falling off if you tilt you head back, but not too tight so as
to make it uncomfortable.
BELAY DEVICE AND CARABINER
You will use a ‘bug’ or a sticht plate for most of your belaying. These are a robust device that allows you to
abseil, belay, and perform rescues. Although there are many other devices, (you will use several as well), it
is these devices that we will use for this course.
We connect our carabiner through the harness, by clipping it onto the belay loop (that’s what it’s for!).
You will be told how to connect the rope and how to belay when you do your first climbing lesson.
SHOES
The sole of a climbing shoe is made from ‘sticky’ rubber. If this rubber gets dirty or dusty then it will not be
effective. Please only wear the climbing shoes when you are about to climb and take them off when you
have come back down.

ROCK CLIMBING TECHNIQUES BELAYING
BELAYING
To belay means to safeguard another person (or yourself) against a fall using a system that provides friction
to a rope. This system is usually in the form of a mechanical belay device through which a rope is threaded.
There are a number of belay techniques commonly used, however, regardless of the technique there are
two important rules
1. The ‘brake or tail’ side of the device should always be held and
2. should be held in the ‘locked off’ position (held down on you hip) whenever you are not
pulling the rope through.
Belaying is a five part sequence as per the following diagrams:
START POSITION
(Maintained at all opportunities)
The ‘take-in’
The ‘reset’

THE CORRECT BELAY TECHNIQUE
It is extremely important that the belayer utilise a sound belay technique. On this course, you will be
taught the ‘five step’ belay. As shown in the following diagram;
Commencement;
Left hand on top rope (ready to pull rope in
as climber climbs)
Right hand on belay end of rope holding in
locked off position
The belayer is holding the rope ‘tight’ on
the climber and has the rope locked in the
belay device.
Pulling the rope in;
As the climber climbs, the belayer pulls the
rope towards them with their left hand and
simultaneously pulls the rope through the
device with their right hand.
At this point the rope is in the fully free
position and a fall from the climber will NOT
be held.
So it is essential to ;
Lock the right hand down immediately!!
This is the most dangerous phase and
should be performed quickly to bring the
rope back into the locked position
Holding the rope like this allows the rope
to move freely through the device
The rope is safely locked off but at this
point to belayer is unable to pull anymore
rope through until they ‘reset’ heir hand
position to the ‘commencement’ position
as at top.
Reset the hand position;
With the rope held in the locked position
with the right hand.
Move the left hand to grab the belay end of
the rope. To allow the right hand to slide up
towards the device to held it locked off.
Then move the left hand back to the top rope
as in figure one at the start.
This move allows control of the belay end
of the rope whilst the belayer ‘resets’ the
hand position to be ready to take in more
rope as the climber climbs.
Note-Until you are fully proficient at belaying you should always use a backup belayer. This is a second person who
holds the loose end of the rope (the end coming from your belay hand) and by holding it will cause the rope to lock off
(in event of a fall), even if you make a mistake.

BELAY FROM THE BOTTOM OR TOP OF THE CLIFF
There are 2 positions where a belayer may be positioned to safeguard a climber, these being the bottom or
the top of the cliff.
Belay at the top of the cliff is an essential skill as, if you are climbing a cliff which is higher than half of your
rope length, your rope will not reach the ground and a ‘bottom’ belay is therefore impossible.
1. Belaying from the bottom
Safeguarding from the bottom of the cliff is the more common method. The belayer is attached to a
suitable anchor and the climbing rope passes from the climber through to carabiners located at the top
of the climb and back down to the belayer and belay device.
The advantages of this method being;
 Communication is easier
 That it is generally more comfortable for the belayer to belay from the bottom opposed to the
top
 The belayer is in a better position to provide advice on holds and moves to the climber
 The climber is in visual contact of the belayer in most situations
 Easier change around of climbers
Disadvantages being;
 The maximum height of climb cannot exceed half of climbing rope length
 Belaying from the top
2. Safeguarding from the top of the cliff is the second method. This involves a person going to the top of
the cliff and establishing a belay point and lowering the rope to the person at the base of the cliff.
 Can attempt climbs up to length of climbing rope
 Saves time establishing a full top rope anchor system
 Belayer can maintain awareness of anchors during climbing session
 Minimal equipment required
 Hard to maintain awareness of climber
 Verbal communication can be difficult
 Advice on climbing move can be difficult
 Harder to change over between climber and belayer
BELAYING FROM YOUR HARNESS OR THE ANCHOR
In addition to belay from the top or bottom we can also consider belaying directly from our harness or
directly from the anchor.
1. Harness belay is when the climber attaches the belay to the belay loop of their harness. The belayer is
an integral part of the belay system and is positioned to maximise effectiveness of the belay

 The belayer has better feel for the movement of the climber
 Rope is fed out from the belay easily and quickly
 The body may absorb some or all of the force of a fall
 It is harder to ‘escape’ the belay in the event of an emergency
2. Direct anchor belay is where the belay device is attached directly to the anchor system. The belayer is
positioned beside the device and feeds rope into and out of the belay device.
 The belayer remains free of the belay
 A climber can easily be held and lowered without discomfort to the belayer
 Forces of a fall are applied directly to the anchor
 It is easy to ‘escape’ the belay in the event of an emergency
 Less ‘feel’ of the climber on the rope
As a general rule, when belaying from the base of the cliff, use harness belay and when belaying from the
top of the cliff use a direct anchor belay. However regardless of either position you must always ensure
that;
 the belay is tied correctly,
 the belay method is correct
 the belayer is prepared to hold a climber fall at all times
 if belaying from the bottom, the belayer is clear of anticipated rock fall
ESCAPING THE BELAY
There may be times when you will need to remove yourself from the belay system and step aside. Of
course your primary concern is for the safety of the climber, so they must be ‘locked off’ before you can
move aside.
There are several reasons why you might need to escape the belay:
 If the climber has become ‘stuck on the rock and there is a necessity to complete a rescue (covered
in Vertical Rescue)
 If the instructor needs to step in and take over the belay.
You will learn Vertical Rescue techniques after study of Knots & Rigging so, the only time you will need to
escape a belay is at the request of the instructor who will manage the steps with you..
The procedure is simple particularly if you are on an anchor belay, you simply:
 Communicate with the climber and inform them what is going to happen
 Take all of the slack out of the climber’s rope and tie off the belay device – usually done by passing
the ‘control ‘ end of the rope through the belay carabiner and tying it off around the climber end of
the rope, just at the top of the belay device.

 And, move aside
If you are belaying off your harness, then you will need to set up an anchor belay by attaching a belay
device and carabiner to a sling (or loop of rope) that is attached to a solid anchor.
Before you set this up – perform the two steps above, so that you have protected the climber before you
start to assemble the second ‘anchor’ belay.
If you can’t reach the equipment to assemble the anchor belay then you’ll need someone else to do this for
you, which will save you having to tie off your device.
If the instructor is taking over the belay, then connect them to the rope via their belay off their harness.
Either way, once you have set up and secured (tied off or have someone else control) the second belay, you
can disconnect yourself from the belay and step aside.
NOTE: if the climber’s weight is on your belay it might be hard to take your device off the rope. However,
the dynamic properties of the rope usually allow for some slack and with caution, this isn’t a hard task to
complete safely.
In vertical rescue you will learn how to use prusiks to ‘make safe’ a belay, in this course you are expected to
be working with a third party (the person who set up the ropes for you….)
ROCKCLIMBING TECHNIQUES FOR THE CLIMBER
TYING IN
The first thing that a climber needs to do is to be able to tie into their harness. We use a figure eight knot,
with a ‘stopper’ knot tied in through both leg loops and waistband of the harness. Here’s how it looks;
THE PRE-CLIMB CHECK
Don’t forget: the belayer checks the climber and the climber checks the belayer (before you commence
climbing). Review the check in Chapter 3.
CLIMBING CALLS
Next we perform our climbing call sequence. Review the climber sequence calls in Chapter 3.
Tie a stopper knot
above the figure
eight

PRINCIPLES OF MOVEMENT ON ROCK
A good climber will seem to glide over the rock smoothly with little apparent effort. This style can only be
developed with practice, but remember the following points:
1. Stand upright on the rock, with your weight directly above your feet.
2. Avoid overstretching with your arms.
This tends to make you lean in towards the rock and reduces your ability to see ahead, upsets your
balance and tends to cause your feet to slip.
3. Try to stand with your weight entirely on your legs.
This will help to stop your arms from tiring. However this is not always possible on steep rock or where
holds are in inconvenient places. When arm strength is used, move as quickly as possible to gain a less
strenuous position.
4. Try to climb rhythmically.
Study the moves in advance and use whatever holds are available, rather then taking large steps
between the biggest holds. When taking large steps try and move quickly in a co-ordinated movement.
5. In general, try to maintain 3 points of contact with the rock.
Move only one hand or foot at a time.
6. When footholds are small your legs may shake involuntary.
This is mainly caused by inactivity of the muscle while under tension. To counter this try and change
positions so different muscles are bought into use (i.e. when standing with the heel raised, press down
on your heel).
CLIMBING A ROCK IS LIKE CLIMBING A LADDER
The rungs are not so obvious, but the rhythm of movement is the same.
3. Place your hands on easy hand holds that are in reach.
4. Move one foot up onto the next logical foothold.
5. Transfer you full body weight onto this (lead) foot
6. Move your centre on mass over the lead foot
7. Stand straight up and straighten your lead leg
8. Rest
CLIMBING TECHNIQUES & HOLDS
You’ll hear a lot of jargon;
 Jugs – large easy holds
 Chossy – loose friable rock
etc
But, here are the climbing holds that you will need to master as you learn to climb.
FOOT HOLDS

Edging is the technique of using either the inside or the outside edge of the boot against small edges to
create footholds
Smearing is a foot hold in which you place the boot on a sloping foothold to allow fiction to support the
weight of the climber for a short moment. By keeping the heel low and as much of the boot rubber in
contact with the rock will increase the security and time of the hold.
HAND HOLDS
Pinch grips are gripping with the fingers on one side and thumb on the other.
Under clings are used when a grip can be made by lifting upwards from under a hold with the palm facing
towards the climber. Friction is generated by pulling upwards. This technique is effective when the climber
is trying to gain more height in reaching holds.
Side-pulls or layaways, are holds that can be gripped by pulling from a sidewards direction. These holds are
often good in maintaining balance during a move
WHOLE BODY HOLDS;
Jamming is a technique used for climbing cracks. Parts of the body are jammed into the cracks in various
configurations lodging them secure enough to bear weight. Can be a hand, an arm, a foot, a leg or a whole
body!
Bridging technique employs the use of one hand and one foot on each wall using friction, where spreading
the weight across the two walls allow a stable position. This technique can also be used on slab and wall
climbs if there are footholds in suitable positions sloping towards each other
Layback is used when a corner has a crack with a sharp edge. Use the feet and arms in opposition; arms
pulling against the edge of the crack and the feet forcing the far wall of the corner, with the body in an
inclined position. The technique is very strenuous, but most laybacks do not last for more than a few
moves. The technique can be used for a single move, using a good side hold to overcome a bare section of
rock. Holds for the feet reduce the strain on the arms.
Mantle shelfing is used when climbing on to a ledge when there are no holds below it. Place both palms on
the ledge and heave the body upwards; push the arms down vigorously until they are straight raising the
body until the thighs are at the level of the hands. Finally swing one foot onto the ledge. Mantel shelf
manoeuvres must be co-ordinated, and made swiftly. It’s like getting out of a pool – up and over.
RESTS
Before you start a climb you should try and anticipate where the rest positions will be. These could be large
ledges where one could stand comfortably or a position with good feet holds enabling to one to stand on
their feet and rest the arms. Whilst resting try and study the next section of the climb and anticipate the
moves
CLIFF FEATURES
An arête is an outside edge or corner of rock, sometimes as large as a mountain ridge.
A chimney is a crack of sufficient size to accept an entire body
A Corner is where two walls meet enclosing a right angle which you can climb inside
A fissure in the rock is called a crack
A flake is a thin slab of rock attached to the main wall or lying against it.
A ledge is a flat area on the face of a cliff. It can be anything from a few centimetres to a few meters wide.

A roof is a section of rock that extends out an above your head, (like a ceiling).
Overhangs are a section of rock similar to a roof but are more vertical and generally not as deep.
A pinnacle is a detached feature rather like a church steeple.
Scoops are an indentation in the rock face.
A slab is a section of rock of gentle angle (inclination), often a relative or offset in reference to a part of a
vertical wall.

CHAPTER 7 THE WEATHER
Light rain or patchy weather is acceptable for abseiling and does not mean that we might cancel a session,
but ‘set-in’ rain, extreme heat or high winds may necessitate that we re-schedule. So as we are not talking
about staying out in extreme weather conditions (not in this module anyway), what are the considerations
for patchy rain and general adverse conditions?
RISK AND THE WEATHER
We will ordinarily cancel an activity if it is raining on site, too hot (above 35 degrees Celsius) or track
conditions are likely to be slippery or very muddy.
There are two major considerations regarding weather:
1. Damage to the equipment
2. Enjoyment of the session
Thirdly we need to access the risk of injury. The risk is that in bad weather conditions deteriorate and;
 people may become less aware
 visibility may decrease
 severe weather will impact our ability to participate and stay safe
It is unlikely that anyone will become injured whilst actually abseiling in wet weather. We can abseil down
waterfalls (canyoning) so a bit of water is not a serious safety issue. Is it fun? Canyoning, Yes! But
abseiling can be arduous if the cliff is slippery and the clients are getting wet and cold.
So abseiling isn’t the danger; becoming wet and hypothermic is though! Get out of the wet and keep your
group warm. The rock may become slippery, which is more than likely to cause a foot slide and possibly
abrasions but a belay and sensible clothing will prevent that. Tracks can become greasy and slippery,
resulting in a possible twisted ankle.
Heat is more of a danger to participants but can be managed by keeping up fluids and encouraging people
to keep in the shade between abseils, take care on the way back up and to take their helmets off when not
within the rock fall zone or actually abseiling.
It is important to consider the effect of exposure to the weather –is there shade from the sun and is there
potential shelter from rain and wind? Adverse weather conditions will have an immediate debilitating
effect on the group. Their ability to follow your instructions will diminish considerably as their personal
comfort levels decline in response to the conditions. This can be immediate for instance in the event of a
storm or high winds or may develop slowly in response to cold or hot weather affecting the individuals in
the group. Be quick to get your group out of adverse conditions before accidents occur.
High wind is simply off-putting to novice abseilers and unenjoyable for most people.
KEEPING AN EYE ON THE WEATHER
So, be aware!
1. Remember that it might be fine/raining where you are but it might be the opposite on site. Have a
local number that you can call to get conditions on site: a service station or local store is a good
option as they are usually open early and seven days a week!
2. Get to know the weather patterns at sites that you visit regularly. For instance, there are some
sites that we do not use after November or before February because of the extreme heat of
summer and exertion of walking into the cliff.

3. Review the weather reports, constantly and especially before you leave for a trip. Combine the
weather report with your knowledge of local weather patterns and observe conditions on site….
OBSERVING WEATHER PATTERNS
1. Keep an eye out, during the session for the weather patterns that indicate a change coming.
2. Seeing weather moving in from afar is an advantage of being up high on a cliff
3. Feeling the drop in air pressure that is indicative of a front moving in
4. Watching clouds forming that indicate rain building
As an outdoor leader you will become accustomed to watching the weather and will get better at
predicting conditions with practice.
Damage to the abseiling equipment and ropes due to wet, muddy conditions is certain:
1. Mud, dirt and dust will wear the rope and stick in the carabiners increasing friction wear and
damaging fibres
2. When a rope becomes wet friction is increased causing increased wear and slower descents
It’s not fun walking off a mountain with sodden ropes that weigh a lot more than when dry and to have to
go and wash them all back at the office!
You will learn more about the weather in later modules, but now how about equipment maintenance when
it does get wet….

Abseiling rock climbing intro handbook

Abseiling rock climbing intro handbook

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