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94-04 V6 Mustang Spark Plugs
Are you getting misfire codes? Engine running weak? Just have an afternoon to waste?
These could all be good opportunities to replace your spark plugs. For all stock or bolt on
Mustangs, it is recommended that you use Autolite or Motorcraft copper core spark
plugs. These are what the car came with from the factory and have given the least
problems over the years. Alternative brands include NGK, Zex, and Bosch however there
have been a number of problems reported when using those plugs. They are, however, a
good choice for a Mustang running forced induction (supercharger or turbo-charger) or
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nitrous oxide.
First let’s start with the tools and supplies you’ll need:
-Spark plugs
-Spark plug gap tool
-Spark plug socket (5/8″)
-Ratchet (1/4″ + 3/8″) and assorted sockets + extensions
-Dielectric grease
-Anti-seize
-Torque wrench (that can read as low at 7 ft/lbs)
The first thing you’re going to want to do is unhook your negative battery connector. I
find any time you need to unplug sensors, it’s safer to unhook the battery. With that
unhooked you can begin removing your air intake tube. There are 2 latches to flip up on
the air filter housing then 1 bolt holding the housing to the fender. If you follow the
tubing a very short distance you’ll find an electrical connector. Unplug this and continue
following the tubing until you find a hose that leads to the crankcase. Remove this hose
from the tubing but because as it may have started to dry-rot. Finally use your ratchet and
appropriate socket to loose the hose clamp. At this time you can remove the entire air
intake tube and set it aside (be gentle, the mass air sensor inside is delicate).
If you haven’t already, use your spark plug gap tool to gap all 6 spark plugs to .054″. I
found a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers worked well for getting the gaps just right.
With all preparation now made, it’s time to move on to the park plugs. I recommend
starting on the passenger side as it is more difficult (save the easy for last). Follow the
spark plug wires until you find the boot (the part that connects to the spark plug). Pull one
off for now (this may required a little twisting as the boots can get stuck on there tight) or
else you risk putting them back on in the wrong order.
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Using your ratchet, an extension, and your 5/8″ spark plug socket, remove the first spark
plug. Take a look at the spark plug and determine if there are any visible problems. If
there are then you should look further into the problem. If not, continue on.
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Grab a new spark plug and apply a tab of anti-seize to your finger then brush it around
the threads on the spark plug. This will make the spark plug easier to remove when you
need to change them again.
Using your extension and spark plug socket, put the spark plug into the socket and line it
up with the hole that the old one came out of. Tighten it down by hand then grab your
torque wrench. Set your torque wrench to somewhere between 7 and 14 ft/lbs then finish
tightening down the spark plug.
Get your dielectric great and put a dab into the spark plug wire boot. This will ensure a
good connection as well as make the boot easier to remove in future spark plug changes.
Put the boot onto the new spark plug. The boot may make a small “pop” feeling, letting
you know it is securely in place. If that boot has been previously damaged it may not
“pop” into place, but may still make a good connection.
There you have it, one down and 5 to go. Repeat the process for each of the 5 remaining
spark plugs. You may have difficulty remove the 2 spark plugs closest to the firewall, but
keep at at it because they will come out.
When you have all 6 spark plugs replaced and the spark plug wire boots securely
reconnected you’ll need to reinstall your air intake. Start with the tubing. Using the hose
clamp, secure the tubing to the throttle body and reattach the hose from the crankcase as
well as the electrical connector to the mass air sensor. You may want to take this
opportunity to apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the electrical connector.
Now put the air filter and its housing back into place. Clamp it down to the tubing using
the clamps connected to it and bolt the housing back to the fender. Reconnect your
battery then start the car up. Watch for any check engine lights or odd sounds/sounds
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from the engine. If everything runs well go ahead and shut it down. Go clean yourself up
and be proud of a good days work!
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http://ModYourMustang.com/ Written by McQueen