This is the Highly Detailed factory service repair manual for the2002 HONDA FIT JAZZ, this Service Manual has detailed illustrations as well as step by step instructions,It is 100 percents complete and intact. they are specifically written for the do-it-yourself-er as well as the experienced mechanic.2002 HONDA FIT JAZZ Service Repair Workshop Manual provides step-by-step instructions based on the complete dis-assembly of the machine. It is this level of detail, along with hundreds of photos and illustrations, that guide the reader through each service and repair procedure. Complete download comes in pdf format which can work under all PC based windows operating system and Mac also, All pages are printable. Using this repair manual is an inexpensive way to keep your vehicle working properly.
Service Repair Manual Covers:
General Information
Specifications
Maintenance Schedule
Engine
Trans
Driveline
Steering
Suspension
Brakes
HVAC
Body
Restraints
Control System DTCs
Wiring Diagram
File Format: PDF
Compatible: All Versions of Windows & Mac
Language: English
Requirements: Adobe PDF Reader
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8
2. Driver attachment, 52 x 55 mm ( 07746-0010400)
NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure.
1. Test the alternator and regulator before you remove them.
2. Remove the alternator.
3. Remove the four through bolts.
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3. 4. Heat the rear bearing seat with a 1,000 W hair drier for about 5 minutes (50-60°C, 129-140°F).
5.
3/12Alternator Overhaul
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4. Separate the rear housing from the drive-end housing by inserting a flat tip screwdriver into the
openings and prying them apart.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the stator with the tip of the screwdriver.
6. Separate the rear housing (A) and drive-end housing (B) with the stator (C) attached to the rear
housing.
A
B
C
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5. 7. If you are not replacing the front bearing and/or rear bearing, go to 15. Clamp the rotor in a
soft-jawed vise, then remove the pulley locknut.
8. Remove the rotor using a puller as shown.
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6. 9. Inspect the rotor shaft for scoring, and inspect the bearing journal surface in the drive-end
housing for seizure marks.
• If either the rotor or drive-end housing is damaged, replace the alternator.
• If both the rotor and the drive-end housing are OK, go to 10.
10. Remove the rear bearing using the puller as shown.
11. Use a hand press to install the new rear bearing. Apply pressure only on the inner race to
avoid damaging the bearing.
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7. 12. Remove the front bearing retainer plate.
13. Support the drive-end housing in a vise, and drive out the front bearing with a brass drift (A)
and hammer.
A
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8. 14. With a hammer and the special tools, install a new front bearing in the drive-end housing.
07749-0010000
07746-0010400
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9. Alternator Brush Inspection
15. Measure the length of both brushes with a vernier caliper.
• If either brush is shorter than the service limit, replace the rear housing assembly.
• If brush length is OK, go to 16.
Alternator Brush Length:
Standard (New): 19.0 mm (0.75 in.)
Service Limit: 5 mm (0.2 in.)
Rotor Slip Ring Test
16. Check that there is continuity between the slip rings (A).
• If there is continuity, go to 17.
• If there is no continuity, replace the rotor assembly.
B
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10. 17. Check that there is no continuity between each slip ring (A) and the rotor (B) and the rotor
shaft (C).
• If there is no continuity, replace the rear housing assembly, go to 18.
• If there is continuity, replace the rotor assembly.
Alternator Reassembly
18. If you removed the pulley, put the rotor in the drive-end housing, then tighten its locknut to
111 N·m (11.3 kgf·m, 81.7 lbf·ft).
19. Remove any grease or any oil from the slip rings.
20. Push the brushes (A) in, then insert a pin or drill bit (B) (about 1.8 mm (0.77 in.) diameter) to
hold them there.
A C
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11. 21. Heat the rear bearing seat with a 1,000 W hair drier for about 5 minutes (50-60°C, 129-140°
F).
22. Put the rear housing assembly (A) and drive-end housing/rotor assembly (B) together, tighten
the four through bolts (C) and pull out the pin (D).
AB
DA
B
C
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12. 23. After assembling the alternator, turn the pulley by hand to make sure the rotor rotates
smoothly and without noise.
24. Install the alternator, and adjust its belt tension.
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13. Drive Belt Replacement
1. Loosen the lock bolt (A), mounting bolt (B) and adjusting bolt (C),then remove the drive belt
(D).
2. Install the drive belt in the reverse order of removal.
3. Adjust the drive belt tension
A B
C
D
1/1Drive Belt Replacement
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14. Drive Belt Inspection and Adjustment
Special Tools Required
Belt tension gauge ( 07JGG-0010100)
Belt Tension Gauge Method
Inspection
1. Attach the belt tension gauge to the belt and measure the tension. Follow the gauge
manufacturer's instructions. If the belt is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs
adjustment, go to step 2.
Tension:
Used Belt: 440-590 N (45-60 kgf, 99-130 lbf)
New Belt: 981-1,130 N (100-115 kgf, 220-254 lbf)
With A/C compressor:
1/5Drive Belt Inspection and Adjustment
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15. Without A/C compressor:
Adjustment
2. Loosen the lock bolt (A) and mounting bolt (B).
07JGG-0010100
07JGG-0010100
2/5Drive Belt Inspection and Adjustment
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16. 3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the lock bolt and
mounting bolt.
4. Recheck the belt tension.
5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for 5 minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt
specification.
Deflection Method
Inspection
1. Apply a force of 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbf), and measure the deflection at the mid point (A) between
the A/C compressor (alternator for without A/C compressor) and crankshaft pulley. If the belt
is worn or damaged, replace it. If the belt needs adjustment, go to step 2.
Deflection:
With A/C compressor:
Used Belt: 5.5-8.5 mm (0.22-0.33 in.)
New Belt: 3.5-5.0 mm (0.14-0.20 in.)
A
8 x 1.25 mm
24 N·m (2.4 kgf·m,
17 lbf·ft)
B
10 x 1.25 mm
44 N·m (4.5kgf·m,
33 lbf·ft)C
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17. Without A/C compressor:
Used Belt: 7.5-10.5 mm (0.30-0.41 in.)
New Belt: 4.5-6.0 mm (0.18-0.24 in.)
With A/C compressor:
Without A/C compressor:
A
A
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18. Adjustment
2. Loosen the lock bolt (A) and mounting bolt (B).
3. Turn the adjusting bolt (C) to obtain the proper belt tension, then retighten the lock bolt and
mounting bolt.
4. Recheck the belt tension.
5. If you installed a new belt, run the engine for 5 minutes, then readjust the belt to the used belt
specification.
A
8 x 1.25 mm
24 N·m (2.4kgf·m,
17 lbf·ft)
B
10 x 1.25 mm
44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m,
33 lbf·ft)C
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19. Alternator Replacement
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the intake manifold.
3. Disconnect the alternator connector (A), WHT wire (B) and harness clamp (C) from the
alternator.
4. Remove the intake manifold
5. Remove the lock bolt (A) and mounting bolt (B), then remove the alternator.
6 x 1.0 mm
8 N·m
(0.8 kgf·m,
6 lbf·ft)
A
B
C
B
10 x 1.25 mm
44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 33 lbf·ft)
1/2Alternator Replacement (Without ETCS)
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20. 6. Install the alternator in the reverse order of removal.
7. Adjust the drive belt tension.
A
8 x 1.25 mm
24 N·m (2.4 kgf·m, 17 lbf·ft)
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21. Charging System Circuit Diagram
WHT/BLU
YEL
CHARGING
SYSTEM
(1.4W)
LIGHT BULB
INDICATOR
BLK/YEL WHT/BLUWHT/GRN
YEL
BAT
IG1
YELGRN/RED
No.1 (80A)
SWITCH
IGNITION
FUSE/RELAY
WHT
UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX
G201
BLK
UNDER-DASH
FIELD WINDING
B C IG L
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
WHT/RED
BLK/YEL
ELD UNIT
BATTERY
ECM/PCM
(7.5A)
No.16
FR
RECTIFIER
ALTERNATOR
BOX
AVN UNIT
ECM/PCM
No.3 (50A)
WHT
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22. Charging System Component Location Index
CHARGING SYSTEM INDICATOR
(In the gauge assembly)
UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX
(Has built-in ELECTRICAL LOAD
DETECTOR (ELD) UNIT)
ELD Troubleshooting
(Circuit low voltage),
ELD Troubleshooting
(Circuit high voltage),
BATTERY
Test,
ALTERNATOR
Troubleshooting,
Replacement,
Overhaul,
DRIVE BELT
Inspection,
Replacement,
1/1Charging System Component Location Index (Without ETCS)
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23. Charging Circuit Troubleshooting
If the charging system indicator does not come on or does not go off, or the battery is dead or low,
test the following items in the order listed below:
Battery
Charging system indicator
Alternator / regulator circuit
Alternator control system
Charging System Indicator Test
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Does the charging system indicator come on?
YES - Go to 2.
NO - Go to 9.
2. Start the engine.
Does the charging system indicator go off?
YES - Charging system indicator circuit is OK.
NO - Go to 3.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Disconnect the alternator 4P connector from the alternator.
5.
1/8Charging Circuit Troubleshooting (Without ETCS)
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24. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Does the charging system indicator come on?
YES -
• Without navigation system: Turn the ignition switch OFF, and repair the short in the
WHT/BLU wire. If the WHT/BLU wire is shorted to ground, the voltage regulator in
the alternator may be damaged.
• With navigation system: Go to 6.
NO - Repair the alternator components.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Disconnect the 12P connector from the AVN unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Does the charging system indicator come on?
YES - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and repair the short in the WHT/BLU wire. If the
WHT/BLU wire is shorted to ground, the voltage regulator in the alternator may be damaged.
NO - Check that the terminals are firmly seated at the connectors. If OK, substitute a known-
good AVN unit and recheck.
9. Connect the alternator 4P connector terminal No. 3 to body ground with a jumper wire. Turn
the ignition switch ON (II).
ALTERNATOR 4P CONNECTOR
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25. Does the charging system indicator come on?
YES - Go to 10.
NO - Turn the ignition switch OFF. Check for a blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse and a blown
charging system indicator bulb. If the fuse and bulb are OK, repair the open in the YEL or
BLK/YEL wire to the indicator bulb.
10. Measure the voltage at the No. 1 terminal of the alternator 4P connector with the ignition
switch ON (II).
L (WHT/BLU)
Wire side of
female terminals
ALTERNATOR 4P CONNECTOR
Wire side of
female terminals
IG (BLK/YEL)
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26. Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to alternator and regulator circuit test.
NO - Repair open in the YEL or BLK/YEL wire between the alternator and the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
Alternator and Regulator Circuit Test
1. Be sure the battery is sufficiently charged and in good condition.
2. Hook up the following equipment:
• Ammeter, 0-400A
• Voltmeter, 0-20V (accurate within 0.1 V)
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27. 3. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm (min-1
) with no load shift lever in Park or
Neutral, until the radiator fan comes on then let it idle.
4. Raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm (min-1
) and hold it there.
5. Turn the headlights (high beam) on, and measure voltage at the alternator terminal.
Is the voltage between 13.9 and 15.1V?
YES - Go to 6.
NO - Repair the alternator components.
6. Read the voltage at 13.5V.
NOTE: Adjust the voltage by turn the blower motor, rear window defogger, brake lights and
etc. on.
Is the voltage 60A or more?
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28. YES - Alternator/regulator operation is OK.
NO - Repair the alternator components.
Alternator Control System Test
1. Check for proper operation of the Electrical Load Detecter (ELD) by checking that the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is off and there is no Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for
ELD failure.
2. Disconnect the alternator 4P connector from the alternator.
3. Start the engine, and turn the headlights (high beam) ON.
4. Measure voltage between the alternator 4P connector terminal No. 2 and the positive terminal
of the battery.
Is there 1 V or less?
YES - Go to 9.
BATTERY
ALTERNATOR
4P CONNECTOR
C (WHT/GRN)
Wire side of
female terminals
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29. NO - Go to 5.
5. Turn the headlight and ignition switch OFF.
6. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
7. Disconnect Engine Control Module (ECM) /Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector B
(24P).
8. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal B18 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the alternator and ECM/ PCM.
NO - Check that the terminals are firmly seated at the connectors. If OK, substitute a known-
good ECM/PCM, and recheck. If prescribed voltage is now available, replace the original
ECM/ PCM.
9. Turn the headlight and ignition switch OFF.
ECM/PCM CONNECTOR B (24P)
ACGC
(WHT/GRN)
Wire side of female terminals
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30. 10. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
11. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).
12. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal B18 and alternator 4P connector
terminal No. 2.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair the alternator.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the alternator and ECM/ PCM.
Wire side of female terminals
ECM/PCM CONNECTOR B (24P)
ALTERNATOR
4P CONNECTOR
ACGC
(WHT/GRN)
C
(WHT/GRN)
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31. Fan Controls Circuit Diagram
NOISE
G301
SUPPRESSOR
NOISE
SUPPRESSOR
MOTOR
RADIATOR
FAN
1
2
1
2
1
2
31
2 5
1 3
52
No.3 (50A)
(With A/C)
BLK/YEL
BLU/YEL
FAN
CONDENSER
G301
MOTOR
ECM/PCM
GRN
GRN
93°C (199°F)
YEL/BLKWHT
BAT
IG2
IGNITION SWITCH
No.22 (7.5A)
UNDER-DASH
FUSE/RELAY BOX
RELAY
FAN
CONDENSER
UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX
BATTERY
Closed : Above
G101
No.1 (80A)
RADIATOR
FAN
RELAY
BLU/BLK
RADIATOR
FAN SWITCH
BLK
No.10 (20A) No.11 (30A)
GRN
1/1Fan Controls Circuit Diagram
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32. Radiator Fan Circuit Troubleshooting
1. Check the No. 10 (20A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 22 (15A) fuse in
the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse (s) OK?
YES - Go to 2.
NO - Replace the fuse (s) and recheck.
2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to 3.
NO - Replace the radiator fan relay.
3. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the radiator fan relay 5P socket and body
ground.
RADIATOR FAN RELAY 5P SOCKET
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33. Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to 4.
NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the radiator fan relay 5P socket with a jumper wire.
Terminal side of female terminals
JUMPER
WIRE
RADIATOR FAN RELAY 5P SOCKET
Terminal side of female terminals
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34. Does the radiator fan run?
YES - Go to 5.
NO - Go to 6.
5. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between the
No. 5 terminal of the radiator fan relay 5P socket and body ground.
RADIATOR FAN RELAY 5P SOCKET
Terminal side of female terminals
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35. Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to 9.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and under-dash
fuse/relay box.
6. Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector.
7. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan relay 5P socket and the No.
2 terminal of the radiator fan motor 2P connector.
RADIATOR FAN RELAY 5P SOCKET
Terminal side of
female terminals
Wire side of
female terminals
BLU/BLK
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36. Is there continuity?
YES - Go to 8.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan
motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
8. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan motor 2P connector and
body ground.
RADIATOR FAN MOTOR 2P CONNECTOR
RADIATOR FAN MOTOR 2P CONNECTOR
BLK
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37. Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the radiator fan motor.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1
and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G301.
9. Reinstall the radiator fan relay.
10. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector.
11. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals, of the radiater fan switch 2P connector with a jumper
wire.
Wire side of female terminals
JUMPER
WIRE
RADIATOR FAN SWITCH
2P CONNECTOR
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38. Does the radiator fan run?
YES - Replace the radiator fan switch.
NO - Go to 12.
12. Remove the jumper wire, and measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the radiator
fan switch connector and body ground.
Wire side of female terminals
GRN
RADIATOR FAN SWITCH
2P CONNECTOR
Wire side of
female terminals
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39. Is there battery voltage?
YES - Check for an open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 1
and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G101.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan switch terminal No. 2 and the under-
hood fuse/relay box.
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