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Eat



Go to Market
one los Cabos eatery introduces cuisine made from local ingredients
By CandyCe H. Stapen




                                                                                                        five to try
                                                                                                        these restaurants turn locally sourced
                                                                                                        products into great tastes.


                                                                                                        1   La Panga antigua. zaragoza 20,
                                                                                                            San José del Cabo,
                                                                                                        52.624.142.4041, lapanga.com.
                                                                                                        Chef Jacobo turquie’s contemporary
                                                                                                        mexican cuisine features organic
                                                                                                        produce and fresh seafood.


                                                                                                        2  tequila. manuel Doblado 1011, San
                                                                                                           José del Cabo, 52.624.142.1155,
                                                                                                        tequilarestaurant.com. much of the
                                                                                                        food served in this courtyard eatery
                                                                                los cabos               comes from the owner’s organic farm.


                                                                                                        3   the Restaurant at Las Ventanas
                                                                                                            al Paraiso. Km 19.5 Carretera
                                                                                                        transpeninsular, San José del Cabo,
                                                                                                        52.624.144.2800, lasventanas.com.
                                                                                                        Chef Fabrice guisset serves Baja-
                                                                                                        mediterranean cuisine that’s as
                                                                                                        lovely as the sea views.


                                                                                                        4   Mi Cocina. Casa natalia Hotel,
                                                                                                            Bulevar mijares 4, San José del
                                                                                                        Cabo, 52.624.146.7100, casanatalia
                                                                                                        .com. the nouvelle mexican-euro
                                                                                                        cuisine at mi Cocina has earned
                                                                                                        accolades from Food & Wine magazine.


Clockwise from left: executive chef alex theil in the kitchen; the swanky main dining area; crispy
wild huachinango with jicama, sea beans, and radish salad with sesame vinaigrette
                                                                                                        5  Mocambo de Los Cabos. Corner
                                                                                                           of leona Vicario and 20 de
                                                                                                        noviembre, Cabo San lucas,
                                                                                                        624.143.2122, mariscosmocambo
when i walk through the shimmering, amber-lit glass entranceway and see                                 .com. Savor delicious seafood served
the racks of wine bottles stored neatly in vaults, and the open kitchen, I think I could                mexican style.                — C.H.S.
be at a slick eatery in Manhattan or Chicago. But Market (Km 7.5 Carretera Trans-
peninsular, San José del Cabo, 52.624.146.7000, oneandonlyresorts.com), which                        best way possible. Many chefs try to
debuted just over a year ago, is actually part of the posh One&Only Palmilla resort                  make everything complicated, but Jean-
in Los Cabos, Mexico.                                                                                Georges tries to make everything simple
    Market is Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first West Coast                     and very good.” At Market, the result is
                                                                                                                                                 keith dannemiller




restaurant. It’s part of a Los Cabos trend favoring fine restaurants that use farm-fresh,            Euro-Asian-inspired cuisine, with Mex-
local items to create world-class global cuisine. “Jean-George’s philosophy,” notes                  ican accents, that’s neither overstated
executive chef Alex Theil, “is to buy great products and to make simple things the                   nor overworked.

70 Continental.Com/magazine DeCemBeR 2009
Eat

                                                The heirloom tomatoes for the                web exclusive
                                            watermelon gazpacho, as well as the              Still hungry? Visit us
                                            squash, pumpkin, avocados, strawber-             at continental.com/
                                            ries, and other fruits and vegetables,           magazine to get more
                                                                                             suggestions for great
                                            come from an organic farm in Mira-
                                                                                             eats in los Cabos and make
                                            flores, an hour from the resort. The chili       your own recommendations.
                                            peppers — habanero, jalapeño, and other
                                            varieties — come from handpicked
                                            suppliers. The bluefin tuna is caught          I go back to Austria and I have chicken
                                            off Ensenada, the shrimp in the Gulf of        soup, I think, ‘Where is the chili? Where
                                            Mexico, and the blue crab in La Paz.           is the cilantro?’”
                                                To these traditional Mexican sta-              Jicama, a kind of tuber-like legume,
                                            ples, Market’s recipes add Vongerich-          finds a place in Market’s crispy wild
                                            ten’s characteristic Asian herbs and           huachinango (red snapper). Sea beans,
                                            spices. Crystallized ginger and lime           also known as “sea grass” or “sea aspar-
                                            juice with a bit of mango enhance the          agus,” add a salty taste and a crusty
                                            La Paz blue crab cake; a ginger mari-          texture to the dish.
                                            nade along with avocado brings out the             When I ask for his favorite item on
                                            flavor in the ribbons of tuna, a signa-        the menu, Theil immediately suggests
                                            ture appetizer that appears in several         the roasted veal chop with chipotle
                                            Vongerichten restaurants.                      glaze. Why? “First of all, the veal chop is
                                                Theil, who hails from Austria, ar-         a nice portion,” he says. “It has a simple
                                            rived in Mexico four years ago to serve        garnish of sautéed porcini mushrooms
                                            as executive chef at C, the Charlie Trot-      from near Mexico City. Then, there’s an
                                            ter restaurant at One&Only Palmilla            aromatic glaze of chilies with orange,
                                            that Market replaced. He knew Span-            lime, and lemon juices.”
                                            ish, having worked in Barcelona. “When             I ordered the veal chop and can
                                            I arrived in Mexico,” he says, “I traveled     report that Chef Theil was right. I still
                                            the country, discovering the local cul-        daydream about the mix of tangy tastes
                                            ture and sampling Mexican enchiladas,          and tender veal — it’s world-class.
                                            frittatas, and chipotle sauces.”
                                                Among Theil’s discoveries: “I love         Writer Candyce H. Stapen enjoys eating
                                            jicama and tamarinds. These products           — and walking — her way through a city
                                            don’t exist in Europe. I also like all the     (though not at the same time).
                                            varieties of chilies as well as sea beans.     Getting there: Continental offers nonstop
                                            Everywhere the locals put a little lime        service to Los Cabos from its hubs in
                                            and a little chili on their food. Now when     Houston and New York/Newark.



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72 Continental.Com/magazine DeCemBeR 2009

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Chef Alex Theil

  • 1. Eat Go to Market one los Cabos eatery introduces cuisine made from local ingredients By CandyCe H. Stapen five to try these restaurants turn locally sourced products into great tastes. 1 La Panga antigua. zaragoza 20, San José del Cabo, 52.624.142.4041, lapanga.com. Chef Jacobo turquie’s contemporary mexican cuisine features organic produce and fresh seafood. 2 tequila. manuel Doblado 1011, San José del Cabo, 52.624.142.1155, tequilarestaurant.com. much of the food served in this courtyard eatery los cabos comes from the owner’s organic farm. 3 the Restaurant at Las Ventanas al Paraiso. Km 19.5 Carretera transpeninsular, San José del Cabo, 52.624.144.2800, lasventanas.com. Chef Fabrice guisset serves Baja- mediterranean cuisine that’s as lovely as the sea views. 4 Mi Cocina. Casa natalia Hotel, Bulevar mijares 4, San José del Cabo, 52.624.146.7100, casanatalia .com. the nouvelle mexican-euro cuisine at mi Cocina has earned accolades from Food & Wine magazine. Clockwise from left: executive chef alex theil in the kitchen; the swanky main dining area; crispy wild huachinango with jicama, sea beans, and radish salad with sesame vinaigrette 5 Mocambo de Los Cabos. Corner of leona Vicario and 20 de noviembre, Cabo San lucas, 624.143.2122, mariscosmocambo when i walk through the shimmering, amber-lit glass entranceway and see .com. Savor delicious seafood served the racks of wine bottles stored neatly in vaults, and the open kitchen, I think I could mexican style. — C.H.S. be at a slick eatery in Manhattan or Chicago. But Market (Km 7.5 Carretera Trans- peninsular, San José del Cabo, 52.624.146.7000, oneandonlyresorts.com), which best way possible. Many chefs try to debuted just over a year ago, is actually part of the posh One&Only Palmilla resort make everything complicated, but Jean- in Los Cabos, Mexico. Georges tries to make everything simple Market is Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first West Coast and very good.” At Market, the result is keith dannemiller restaurant. It’s part of a Los Cabos trend favoring fine restaurants that use farm-fresh, Euro-Asian-inspired cuisine, with Mex- local items to create world-class global cuisine. “Jean-George’s philosophy,” notes ican accents, that’s neither overstated executive chef Alex Theil, “is to buy great products and to make simple things the nor overworked. 70 Continental.Com/magazine DeCemBeR 2009
  • 2. Eat The heirloom tomatoes for the web exclusive watermelon gazpacho, as well as the Still hungry? Visit us squash, pumpkin, avocados, strawber- at continental.com/ ries, and other fruits and vegetables, magazine to get more suggestions for great come from an organic farm in Mira- eats in los Cabos and make flores, an hour from the resort. The chili your own recommendations. peppers — habanero, jalapeño, and other varieties — come from handpicked suppliers. The bluefin tuna is caught I go back to Austria and I have chicken off Ensenada, the shrimp in the Gulf of soup, I think, ‘Where is the chili? Where Mexico, and the blue crab in La Paz. is the cilantro?’” To these traditional Mexican sta- Jicama, a kind of tuber-like legume, ples, Market’s recipes add Vongerich- finds a place in Market’s crispy wild ten’s characteristic Asian herbs and huachinango (red snapper). Sea beans, spices. Crystallized ginger and lime also known as “sea grass” or “sea aspar- juice with a bit of mango enhance the agus,” add a salty taste and a crusty La Paz blue crab cake; a ginger mari- texture to the dish. nade along with avocado brings out the When I ask for his favorite item on flavor in the ribbons of tuna, a signa- the menu, Theil immediately suggests ture appetizer that appears in several the roasted veal chop with chipotle Vongerichten restaurants. glaze. Why? “First of all, the veal chop is Theil, who hails from Austria, ar- a nice portion,” he says. “It has a simple rived in Mexico four years ago to serve garnish of sautéed porcini mushrooms as executive chef at C, the Charlie Trot- from near Mexico City. Then, there’s an ter restaurant at One&Only Palmilla aromatic glaze of chilies with orange, that Market replaced. He knew Span- lime, and lemon juices.” ish, having worked in Barcelona. “When I ordered the veal chop and can I arrived in Mexico,” he says, “I traveled report that Chef Theil was right. I still the country, discovering the local cul- daydream about the mix of tangy tastes ture and sampling Mexican enchiladas, and tender veal — it’s world-class. frittatas, and chipotle sauces.” Among Theil’s discoveries: “I love Writer Candyce H. Stapen enjoys eating jicama and tamarinds. These products — and walking — her way through a city don’t exist in Europe. I also like all the (though not at the same time). varieties of chilies as well as sea beans. Getting there: Continental offers nonstop Everywhere the locals put a little lime service to Los Cabos from its hubs in and a little chili on their food. Now when Houston and New York/Newark. fLy & Buy Promotions from our advertisers Dial 7. Need a ride from Galveston Island Conven- Sony Digital Noise the airport? Rates as low tion Center. Located at Canceling Headphones. as $46 from Newark Lib- The San Luis Resort, the The Sony MDR-NC500D erty International Airport Center offers executive digital noise cancel- to Manhattan. Enjoy com- conference facilities and ing headphones are the fortable and affordable relaxing resort ameni- world’s first headphones private transportation ties. Three on-site hotels that use digital technology with Dial 7 car and provide 700 guest rooms to realize incredible noise limousine service, touted for your convenience. reduction along with pris- “the best ride in town.” galvestonisland tine quality audio. sony 800.777.8888, dial7.com conventioncenter.com .com/headphones 72 Continental.Com/magazine DeCemBeR 2009