In order to sustain in the contemporary world, like any other handloom, even Paithani weaving has adapted to different cultural influences through various designers and artists.
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New age paithani
1.
2. In order to sustain in the
contemporary world, like any other
handloom, even Paithani weaving
has adapted to different cultural
influences through various designers
and artists. When the material is
concerned, Paithani has progressed
from cotton to a silk base over time.
The weft patterns and borders were
made of silk, while the body of the
fabric was made of cotton. The
Paithani sari does not contain any
cotton in present variants.
3. Although it is difficult to convince the
weavers to shift from what they
traditionally made in Paithani
weaving, a few of the designers still
found a way around it by
implementing it with checks and
stripes in pastel shades adding a
classic essence to it. Apart from that
the intricacy and the complexity of
the designs have also been revived
in order to cut costs and time.
Source: New Age Paithani
4.
5. One of the prominent changes in
Paithani borders is that weavers have
moved away from small borders towards
larger ones, modifying the contour of the
sari and allowing it to contain a wider
range of designs, including those
imported from other regions. The
interlocking weft technique is used to
produce the borders, which are made of
colored silk or zari. Ground colored silk
designs are placed as additional weft
inlay against the zari in the zari border,
usually in the form of bloom or a
creeping vine.
6. Presently, Paithani borders are
distinguished by their luxury and
golden colored thread work finery on
patch borders that resemble a
golden carpet due to their fine and
close weaving. There are salwar
kameez that have such gorgeous
Paithani work borders that they have
a huge appeal. Only zari warp
strands create a golden ground over
which angular, brilliantly colored silk
motifs are weaved in the interlaced
weft to create a tapestry impression.
Source: New Age Paithani
7.
8. A lot of experiments have also been
done with the tints and tones of this
saree. A Paithani was traditionally done
in purple, yellow, crimson, pink, and bottle
green. But now it is also found in blues,
mauves, greys, and pastels. The modern
Paithani color-scape is stunning, with
striking numbers in chocolate brown with
gold zari weft. The most transition in the
color scape is seen with Violet warp with
gold zari weft and pink flowers, as well as
navy blue with the silver weft, are
included in the new color palette.
9. The motifs of Paithani Saree have
also gone through a revival over the
years. For example, the Bangle
Peacock (Bangadi Mor) was delicate
to the level that a 3″ bangle
consisted of around 36 elements
including 4 peacocks and a central
flower. As time elapsed, changes and
eliminations either due to cost or the
work involved, elements as low as 10
are weaved today. Sandwiched
Source: New Age Paithani
10.
11. between parrots, peacocks, stars, and as a
wali besides flowering vine and lotuses, some
borders are 6″ to 18″. In the last 100 years, not a
single true Bangadi-Mor has been woven.
Presently, the motifs which are mostly woven
include creatures like Duck, Deer, Monkey,
Flamingo, and Toco Toucan. Apart from that
inspiration is also withdrawn from nature like
lotus leaves, deodar trees, and landscapes like
forests, mountains, lakes are implemented
artistically through the weaving process. What
is making these sarees even more aesthetic is
the way these motifs are intermingled with
contrasting and monochromatic shades like
pink, green, yellow, magenta, and beige along
with gold and silver zari.
12. As modern brides discover new ways to
embrace their origins, this heritage weave
has been given a modern twist over the
years. One of the prominent silhouettes
which are highly used with this illustrative
textile is are the lehengas especially paired
with a trendy blouse made out of organza
fabrics. As with the sarees, the pleats on the
sides are usually tucked in, and the extra
length is draped around the neck like a
dupatta. Swapping the traditional blouse
for white shirts and jackets, well-cut tank
tops, or a T-shirt for the pre-wedding
festivities are some more creative ways to
wear this sari.
Source: New Age Paithani
13. Paithani sarees are canvases for the weavers who make them. No two sarees can look
alike, just like a painting. With every play of color, or experiment with material or revival
of the motifs a new life is given to this craft. This will not only bring a bigger market for
this cherished legacy but also help the art survive in this fast-paced contemporary
world.