1. S
uspended in the north-
eastern waters of
Singapore is the island of
Pulau Ubin, far removed
from the city’s glitzy,
urban reputation.
To get to the island, we board a
ferry from the Changi Village
Terminal. The waiting area is
shorn of timetables or fare struc-
tures and you are told that the
boat will depart only if it has 12
passengers or collects a total fare
of 30 SGD. Our motley group of
Singaporeans, Indians and other
foreign tourists gathers and our
bumboat finally bobs over the
sunlit water. We spot a couple of
otters basking on the shores of
Changi Village, as colourful hous-
es and swaying palm trees begin
to dot the horizon. We pass
through the gates of the island
and feel as though we have
entered a different era. To the left
lies the Chek Jawa Wetlands,
Butterfly Hill, Jelutong Campsite
and the Pulau Ubin Tree Trail. To
the right, the path leads the way
to the Sensory Trail and a gallery
of the birds of Pulau Ubin. We
choose to make our way down to
the craggy shore.
We pass by a tiny Buddhist
shrine, bicycle rental shops and
restaurants, adorned with posters
of men and women decked in tra-
ditional Chinese wear, that serve
local seafood delicacies.
JELUTONG CAMPSITE
I stumble upon a horde of oriental
pied hornbills in the trees sur-
rounding Jelutong Campsite. On
our trip to Butterfly Hill, the shore
follows us for a long stretch, peek-
ing out every now and then from
between the fronds of thick green
foliage. Lines of melancholic,
thoughtful poetry stand beside
the botanical name cards — they
speak of impermanence, time and
the symbiotic relationship
between man and earth. This is
the one that touches me the most:
Trees waving
At the sky
Forever trees
Unmoved for
Years holding
Long unsteady
Breaths
Between each
Fruit’s fall
BUTTERFLY HILL AND CHEK
JAWA WETLANDS
The buzz of myriad butterflies and
sweet fragrance of flowers ripe
with nectar provide a welcome
break from these sombre
thoughts. The butterflies pause
just long enough for me to identi-
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PulauUbinIslandisasecretoasisofuntamednatureinurbanisedandsterileSingapore
Singapore’sown
treasureisland
fy them as
Great
Mormons.
They look
striking with
their black wings
with red splotches.
On our way back
from Butterfly Hill, we
pass orchards weighed
down by golden yellow
pomelos, which attract
Great Mormons in hordes.
As we walk towards
Chek Jawa Wetlands,we
spot resting shelters, brooks
and banana trees. Chek Jawa
Wetlands is like the light at the
end of the tree-lined tunnel,
traversing the wooded expanse
of Pulau Ubin. The final stretch
to the wetlands and observatory
is a rough path strewn with sepia
leaves. Finally, we reach the entrance
to the mangrove.
The shaky Jejawi Tower has only a
limited capacity to house people —
more than 20 people at the top and
there’s no saying what will happen to
the tower. I lay my eyes on the sweep-
ing view of the thick mangroves and
Singapore’s famed skyline in the dis-
tance. It is a breath taking juxtaposi-
tion of green forest, serene sea and
bustling city.
As we make our way to the man-
grove boardwalk, we pass by beautiful
specimens of flora and fauna including
nipah fruits with skins reminiscent of
pineapples. Meanwhile, a fiery mud
lobster peeks shyly out of its nest,
vying for our attention. Excellent
examples of adaptation to the man-
grove habitat include trees whose roots
spread above the surface of the
ground, pointy stick-like growths
brave the slushy mud. The end of the
boardwalk opens up to the bright sea
and a pleasant cove, where the water is
a lovely sea green.
As we walk back to Pulau Ubin’s
gates, our bags considerably heavier
with a pomelo, I feel that every visit
here would be a different adventure;
an unprecedented glimpse of the pri-
meval marvels of unfettered nature.
BEFORE YOU PACK
HOW TO GET THERE
Take a bus or cab to Changi Village
Point. Buses are available from Tanah
Merah, Tampines or Pasir Ris metro sta-
tions. From the bus stop, the ferry ter-
minal is a short walk away. Ferries de-
part whenever there are twelve passen-
gers or a total fare of 30 SGD
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Plan a day excursion to Pulau Ubin as
the entry to most sites is closed post
evening. The island is inviting at any
time of the year but trekking in the sum-
mer can be a little tiring. Going with a
tour guide is also a good idea
WHAT TO PACK
Carry insect repellents to protect your-
self from bug bites. Also carry enough
water and food to last you through the
day. Take a good camera along with
you. Carry a windcheater or other rain
gear along if you are venturing
there on a rainy day
WHAT TO WEAR
Wear comfortable
trainers or walk-
ing shoes as
The mangrove boardwalk A weaver’s nest en route to Jelutong An example of mangrove adaptation
TRAVEL
Going off track
The lush green shoreline
A mud lobster peeks from his nest
An
oriental
pied
hornbill
Fruit
of the
Nipah tree
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