Guide to Destinations in Africa from TNT Magazine.Travel and Backpacking options brought to you by Travel Experts at TNT Magazine. Physical Copy Circulated: 50,000 Per Week Geographical region: London

1. De A
tions
stinaFRICA
GO WILD
Africa’s best safaris
PLUS GARDEN ROUTE EGYPT MALAWI CAPE TOWN MOROCCO KENYA

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3. DESTINATIONS AFRICA > CONTENTS
05 TOP 5 SAFARIS
No trip to Africa is complete Welcome
without a safari. Here’s the
best places to do it and why
Letter
Welcome to TNT’s
Destinations Africa
supplement, in which we
bring you the very best of
what this mighty continent
has to offer.
From bungee jumping
and skydiving in Cape
Town, to spotting lion kills
in Tanzania, we’ve got the
lowdown on Africa’s
biggest thrills for
adventurous travellers.
Fancy something a bit
more relaxing? Then climb
aboard a felucca with us
as we slowly sail down the
08 MARRAKECH 10 RELAXING EGYPT 14 SHOESTRING
Nile, or take to Lake
MUST- DO’S Need some chill time after SAFARI
What you can’t afford to the madness of Cairo? We How to bike, taxi and walk Malawi in a kayak and
miss in Morocco’s capital go sailing down The Nile with the wildlife on a budget end your nights camping
under the stars.
But if there’s one thing
you absolutely can’t miss
in Africa, then it’s going
on safari.
And we’ve got loads
of tips on how to make
sure your safari is one to
18 BEST OF CAPE TOWN 24 ECO-MALAWI 29 GARDEN ROUTE
remember; whether it’s
Whether you’re a thrillseeker Limit your carbon footprint Cage dive with sharks, surf
or a yellow-belly, you’ll be by kayaking and camping and slug port on SA’s choosing the right country,
bowled over by Cape Town around a sub-Saharan Eden answer to Route 66 or having a DIY adventure
on foot or even by taxi!
Happy travelling!
The Destinations team
Photos: Getty, Thinkstock, TNT. Cover: Thinkstock
Editor Carol Driver Acting Travel Editor Laura Chubb Contributing Writers Alasdair Morton, Tom Sturrock, Frankie Mullin, Rebecca Kent, Clare Vooght, Jahn Vannisselroy,
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tntmagazine.com/destinations 3

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A whole range of trips incl. game drives in the Masai Mara
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Phone: 0208 742 0226
Email: absaf@absoluteafrica.com
4 tntmagazine.com/destinations

5. AFRICA > BEST SAFARIS
Stare out lions in Tanzania
Africa’s best
safaris
If you’re desperate to see the Big Five and determined to spot all of the other
wonders of Africa’s animal kingdom, these are the best places to do it
WORDS LAURA CHUBB
G oing on safari is your essential African experience,
and spotting the Big Five will be high on every
traveller’s agenda. A term coined by white hunters, it
factors. However, there are some countries and parks that
give you a better chance than most. Here’s our pick of
the best places to go on safari in Africa.
refers to the five most difficult animals in Africa to hunt
on foot, and comprises the lion, African elephant, Cape 1 Kenya
buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros. And there’s all manner STAR ATTRACTION Wildebeest
of other African animals that you’ll thrill to see up close: Africa’s most popular safari destination, Kenya might be
zebra, giraffes, hippos, cheetahs ... the list goes on. having some PR problems right now, but nothing can take
But safari is a gamble. The beasts you get to see will away from the might of its Masai Mara Reserve. Go
vary depending on the time of year and all sorts of other between July and October and bear witness to the >>
tntmagazine.com/destinations 5

6. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
SA for cheetahs
jaw-dropping migration of millions of wildebeest and zebra.
Set in the Rift Valley with Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains running
along the southern end, you are pretty much guaranteed
to spy the Big Five.
2 Botswana
STAR ATTRACTION Elephant
The Chobe National Park is home to tens of thousands of
The black rhino
elephants, so you’re unlikely to miss the big-eared fellows
when you visit. In fact, you’re likely to see hundreds. Go
between April and October – the cooler winter months
– to see herds of zebra, buffalo, giraffe and wildebeest, too.
Because the land dries up, the animals tend to congregate
by the river banks, making them easier to spot.
3 South Africa
STAR ATTRACTION Cheetah
The Kruger National Park is renowned for boasting the most
A zebra herd
diverse range of wildlife to see on safari, from lions, rhino
and leopards to hippos, crocs and cheetahs. There’s a
range of accommodation, from self-catering bungalows
to luxury lodges, and you can even do a self-drive safari.
4 Tanzania
STAR ATTRACTION Lion
Offering what many call the ‘classic safari’ experience,
Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park offers great grasslands
for spotting lion kills (if that’s your bag). You can also get
a more exclusive-feeling view of the wildebeest and zebra
migration that makes its way through Kenya, as there are
fewer tourists in Tanzania.
Photos: South Africa Tourism, Getty, Thinkstock
5 Namibia
STAR ATTRACTION Black rhinoceros
The Etosha National Park in northern Namibia is home to the
endangered black rhinoceros – declared extinct in western
Africa last year. As well as spotting this increasingly rare
beast, you’ll likely see giraffes, elephants, lions and often
Botswana is best for elephants
even cheetahs and leopards. n
6 tntmagazine.com/destinations

7. 7

8. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
A snake charmer in Djemaa el-fna
Xxxxxxxxxxxxx
GETTING THERE
Fly direct from London
Gatwick to Marrakech
with easyJet from £108
return. (easyjet.com)
Trawl the city’s souks
MARRAKECH
MOROCCO
8 tntmagazine.com/destinations

9. Morocco > Marrakech
Marvellous
Marrakech
Marrakech is full of colour and the potential for adventure. From losing yourself
in its huge souk to unwinding in a hammam, here’s what you can’t afford to miss
WORDS JAHN VANNISSELROY
T reat yourself to a journey to Morocco this year. It’s
only a short plane ride away, meaning a weekend
break in Marrakech is perfectly within reach.
water thrown over you, then you’ll be left to sweat it all
out in the sauna. The experience is topped off with
a soothing massage, so you leave feeling rejuvenated
and super-clean.
Why Marrakech?
Little more than a three-hour flight from London, this Dinner time
imperial Moroccan city is gloriously exotic. It’s known Tagine, both the name of the stew and the dish in which
as ‘The Red City’ to the native Berber community, but it’s cooked, is a hearty blend of vegetables, fruit, nuts
its atmosphere is hardly monochromatic. Marrakech is and meat slow-cooked over a bed of charcoal and
home to bustling street markets, or souks, relaxing spas, devoured with a heap of warm bread. For lighter fare,
or hammams, and cultural museums, while just a stone’s try vegetarian couscous, sweetly enriched with dates,
throw from the majestic Atlas Mountains. almonds, raisins and cinnamon. For more adventurous
foodies, there’s always monkey brains, a delicacy
Don’t miss rumoured by the locals to cure impotence.
You’ll be tempted to spend all your time at the Djemaa
el-Fna or ‘main square’, the liveliest town centre in Africa. Money shot
By day, acrobats, snake charmers, storytellers and belly The minaret of the famous Koutoubia Mosque stands at
dancers entrance hordes of spectators, but come an underwhelming 77 metres, but towers above the rest of
nightfall, the square transforms into an open-air dining the city thanks to a decree that states no building can rise
room, as food carts selling succulent treats emerge from above it. The mosque is particularly stunning when bathed
the plumes of smoke. Amid the mouth-watering mountains in the golden light of a sunset as the faithful are called to
of nosh and zesty aromas that fill the air, sellers will vie for prayer. Get clicking.
your attention, swearing that their wares are the best.
Where to stay
Best of the rest Riad Massine is an ancient riad completely restored to its
Don’t expect an entirely soothing experience when visiting original Spanish-Berber style. It’s located in Bab Doukkala,
Photos: Getty, Thinkstock
a hammam, which can be found in luxury hotels and riads one of Marrakech’s oldest residential districts, and provides
(a traditional Moroccan house or palace). You’ll be given accommodation for groups and single travellers. From
a thorough scrubbing with black soap, which will wipe £6pppn. For bookings and other accomodation options
away any trace of dirt or tan, before having a bucket of see riad-massine2.hostel.com or hostelworld.com n
tntmagazine.com/destinations 9

10. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Felucca: essentially a floating bed
10 tntmagazine.com/destinations

11. EGYPT > THE NILE
Sail your way
back to sanity
You can’t knock Cairo for sheer buzz, but after negotiating the mayhem for a few
days, you’ll be ready for some chill time. We find sailing the Nile is the answer
WORDS LUCY CORNE
C airo is great for many things – exquisite FAST FACTS morning to do a little essential shopping for
WHEN TO GO Spring and
bakeries and superlative shopping; his passengers. His list is an unusual one
autumn are the best times to visit.
amazing architecture and welcoming The summer months are OK for featuring just two items – toilet paper and
residents – but relaxing it isn’t. The city is sun lovers if you stick to the coast, camel meat (the latter perhaps
but interior towns such as Aswan
rammed with crazy drivers and more necessitating an increased supply of the
can get unbearably hot.
haggling, honking and hawking than even IS IT SAFE? The Foreign and former ... ).
the most seasoned traveller can bear. Commonwealth Office has said it As we take turns at the helm between
is still safe to visit Egypt, in spite of
However, there is another side to Egypt naps and sips of Egyptian Stella beer, the
violent protests in Cairo last year in
and if you want to relax, a sailing trip does which several people were killed. river banks pass by, sometimes fringed with
wonders for the blood pressure. However, tourists are warned to palm trees; other sections punctuated with
stay away from demonstrations and
The day after leaving Cairo, I find myself whitewashed houses or the occasional
crowds. (fco.gov.uk)
listening to the gentle splashing of the Nile SEE egypt.travel mosque. After lunch we anchor to await
as I lie aboard a felucca. These flat sailing the return of Captain Hubbly Bubbly and
boats are essentially giant floating beds, my eye catches the comical sight of two
their decks almost entirely taken up by thin-yet-comfy teenage boys attempting to bathe a cow that is clearly
mattresses. You can take a trip for a matter of hours or happier out of the water.
days, depending on the level of stress to be alleviated. After a 15-minute struggle to lure the animal into the river
For me, it only takes a few hours on a felucca to return they admit defeat, leave the cow to its own devices and
my tension to pre-Cairo levels. I ponder the day we’ve had go for a swim. They approach our boat and wave to us >>
– a midday departure from the southern city of Aswan, an
afternoon nap as the Nile gently carried us northward, a
GETTING THERE
surprisingly delicious dinner on board and a couple of cold CAIRO
British Airways
beers as the sun set over the river. We sleep anchored to (britishairways.com) offers Dahab
the river bank and awake to a typical breakfast of strong, return flights from London to
sugary tea and hard-boiled eggs. Cairo for £273. Thomson River Nile
(thomson.co.uk), Monarch Luxor
With the gloriously laid-back pace of the trip set, we
(monarch.co.uk) and
then settle in for a day of utter relaxation peppered with easyJet (easyjet.com) do
EGYPT
the occasional brush with local culture. flights from London to Luxor
Our skipper, who calls himself ‘Captain Hubbly Bubbly’, from £195.
thanks to his love of the hookah pipe, abandons ship mid-
tntmagazine.com/destinations 11

12. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
DIVE INTO DAHAB
If you’re still not chilled enough after your
felucca trip, get yourself to the beach resort of
Dahab. Open-air restaurants line the beachfront,
where you can sip cocktails or lassis and munch
on the free appetisers each establishment uses to
attract diners. The Red Sea laps just metres away,
its waters a magnet for divers and snorkelers
to jump in. Eyeing the murky water and thinking of all those from around the world.
travel ailments I foolishly read up on before leaving home, Dahab is Egypt’s laidback and beautiful
I’m hesitant, but once my fellow passengers take the answer to Thailand’s Koh Samui. Oceanic
plunge I don’t want to get left out. pursuits take centre stage in this largely budget
Wading in fully clothed (a swimsuit seems wholly resort, but those who come to take their PADI
inappropriate in rural Egypt) I’m shocked to find the Nile course or sample the world-class snorkeling
action often end up staying longer than planned.
There’s more to this resort perched on the
Barbequed camel turns out to edge of the stark and striking Sinai region than
diving and daiquiris, though. Day trips take in
be not only bearable but tasty the swirling patterns and iconic rock formations
of the Coloured Canyon, while overnight camel
a pleasant place to swim. We float around until Hubbly treks stop off for a little nomadic culture in a
Bubbly returns with an armful of loo roll and a bag Bedouin camp. And whether you’re religious or
overflowing with utterly unappetising meat. not, taking the midnight hike to the biblical
That evening, our second and last on board, we party mountain’s 2285m summit in time for a desert
on the river bank. Barbequed camel turns out to be not sunrise will be a memorable experience.
only bearable but actually tasty. To celebrate his culinary
success, Captain Hubbly Bubbly breaks out his goblet drum.
A fine evening caps off a wonderful day and we retreat
to our floating mattress.
The next morning as the felucca nears Kom Ombo,
home to a stunning riverside temple and the place where
we have to bid farewell to Hubbly and his boat, I feel ready
for a bit of a haggle. In fact, after a few days on the
Photos: Thinkstock, TNT
felucca, I feel ready to tackle Cairo again. n
» Check out egypttourinfo.com for more on cruising
down the Nile on a felucca
12 tntmagazine.com/destinations

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14. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cycle with zebra
Get up close to nature Spot giraffes on a walk
1 tntmagazine.com/destinations
4

15. KENYA > SHOESTRING SAFARI
Kenya on
a shoestring
Planning your own Kenyan safari can benefit your budget as well getting you even
closer to the Big Five. We show you how to bike, taxi and walk with the wildlife
WORDS AMY ADAMS
I t really isn’t the best moment, just as we FAST FACTS Taxi
WHEN TO GO January and
drive up alongside three white rhino, to With blaring hip-hop and passengers
February are the most popular
discover that my car window doesn’t wind months, due to the hot, dry hanging out the door, minibuses, known
down. Sensing my frustration as I peer weather. You can go any time, as matatus, might not seem the sanest,
but avoid the rainy season
through the dusty glass, my taxi driver, most relaxed way to travel, but they
(March to the end of May).
Mwaka, suggests I open my door and get CURRENCY £1 = KES135 are cheap and cheerful, and an
even closer. The only thing between me (Kenyan shilling) undoubtedly novel experience. After
IS IT SAFE? You’re advised to
and the nearest of these huge rhinos is my taking one into Naivasha town and then
steer clear of all areas near the
digital camera. Somali border. Travellers should further on to Nakuru, I disembark in a
“That one’s getting angry now,” also be extra-vigilant in Nairobi, chaotic market place.
as the capital is under a heightened
Mwaka advises, prompting me to hurriedly Following some fierce haggling, I find
threat of terror attacks (fco.gov.uk)
shut the door. Our vehicle might not boast SEE magicalkenya.com a taxi driver who is prepared to take me
all the mod cons, but this kind of up-close- on a three-hour tour of Lake Nakuru
and-personal experience is the pay-off for National Park for KES3500 (£25) plus the
eschewing organised tours and doing it yourself. park fee of US$60 (£38). Admittedly, it’s not peanuts, but
I had budgeted to pay far more.
Biking
Hiring a bike at Elsa Gate for KES500 (£3.70) and paying Walking
the park entrance fee of KES2100 (about £15) is a great If cycling past giraffes is a surreal experience, then >>
way to begin an alternative safari, taking in Hell’s Gate
National Park by Lake Naivasha in the Rift Valley, an hour
GETTING THERE
from Nairobi. The sandy terrain doesn’t make for an easy Kenya Airways and
ride, but our efforts are rewarded when I round a corner British Airways offer direct
and see a waterhole thronging with zebras, their black flights to Nairobi from £400 KENYA
and white stripes striking against the earthy backdrop. return. Indirect flights with
Swiss Airways start at £360
In the other direction, a fellow cyclist spies a giraffe.
return. (kenya-airways.com; NAIROBI
As we get nearer, we spot another, and another, until britishairways.com;
a family of four becomes visible. Then they slope off into swiss.com)
the trees, their movements so jarringly unfamiliar that it’s
hard to believe they are actually real.
tntmagazine.com/destinations 15

16. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
BEST OF NAIROBI
The city centre of Nairobi is worth a visit
to experience the downtown buzz, grab a few
souvenirs and have your pick of restaurants,
but don’t leave without visiting Karen, a leafy
suburb, south of Nairobi, which feels like it
belongs to a different city.
Face-to-face
Among the colonial villas and tree-lined streets
you’ll find unique attractions. In particular,
check out the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust,
set up to look after orphaned black rhinos and
elephants until they’re strong enough to go back
into the wild and fend for themselves. You can
visit this corner of the Nairobi National Park
each day between 11am and noon to watch the
Safari by taxi baby elephants being fed from giant bottles of
milk. See: sheldrickwildlifetrust.org
walking among them is yet another step into the Head to the Giraffe Centre, where endangered
unexpected. At Crater Lake Game Sanctuary back near Rothschild giraffes are bred before being released
Lake Naivasha, we pay an entrance fee of KES700 (£5) into the wild. The centre is on stilts, so you get
and the park is ours to mingle between the giraffes, the rare chance to be at eye-level with these
zebras, impalas and gazelles. I stand and watch in awe amazing creatures – grab a fistful of pellets and
as a group of giraffes, initially keeping a wary eye on me hand-feed them. At the nearby Giraffe Manor
they roam the gardens. You can stay for a hefty
The only thing between me price or just have afternoon tea, but you’ll need
to book ahead. See: giraffecentre.org
and the nearest of the rhinos
In Kibera, the city’s largest shanty town, a small
is a digital camera bead factory and craft shop that is the Kazuri
bead and pottery centre has been set up to
as they snack on the trees, startled by the noise of a car, create jobs for residents. A member of staff will
turn and gallop away in an awkward slow-motion lope give you a free tour around the factory, from the
that causes the ground to shake. kilns to the intricate glazing and industrious
Later, while making my way to the jade Crater Lake, I threading. The pretty necklaces and pots made
come across the strangest bird I’ve ever seen – there he is, here are sent round the world, and you can find a
Photos: Kenya Tourism, Tom Brakefield, Amy Adams, Getty, Thinkstock
marching across the open grassland, his upper body like a selection of them in the shop. See: kazuri.com
majestic eagle and lower half like a spindly stork, seeming
to lunge with each step. According to my guidebook, it’s
a secretary bird, known to walk up to 20km a day.
Even compared to the angry rhino, the munching
giraffes and the thronging, luminous flamingos, it’s an
unexpected highlight, and something I probably
wouldn’t have spotted from a flash 4WD. So if your jaw
drops to the floor at the price of going on safari with an
organised tour, then rest assured that you can always do
it yourself. Just make sure the taxi door shuts properly. n
16 tntmagazine.com/destinations

17. Get amongst it! THE SMART CHOICE FOR
With the African specialists
Absolute Africa GORILLA ENCOUNTERS
30 years overlanding in Africa
A whole range of trips incl. game drives in the Masai Mara Guaranteed spots on a gorilla trek
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www.absoluteafrica.com English speaking local leaders
Phone: 0208 742 0226 For more details or to book call 0844 7360 170
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DECIDED ON AFRICA?
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tntmagazine.com/destinations 17

18. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Addo Elephant National Park
Skydive over Robben Island
Table Mountain
Xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Surf at Kommetjie
18 tntmagazine.com/destinations

19. SOUTH AFRICA > CAPE TOWN
Cape Fear
The Cape is perfect for both thrillseekers in search of an adrenaline-fuelled riot, and
the more timid who are looking to relax, unwind and take in the glorious scenery
WORDS ADAM EDWARDS
F or a moment it looks a little like a FAST FACTS After that mammoth challenge, it’s
WHEN TO GO Summertime
certain Seventies blockbuster, as what time for a few well-deserved drinks. Long
is November-March. Be aware
seems to be a fin edges above the surface that prices can double during the Street in the heart of the city is chosen as
of the sea between me and my friends as Christmas holidays. our destination. Bars and clubs overflow
ACCOMMODATION A dorm
we’re treading water offshore. My over- on to mezzanine verandas, as people
bed at South Boutique Backpackers
active imagination, fuelled by Jaws, kicks (hostelworld.com) costs £6pn, huddle around tables watching life pass
into overdrive and my life flashes before while a dorm bed at The Backpack by in the street below. As I lean against
& Africa Travel Centre costs £10pn
my eyes. But then I find myself screaming the wrought-iron balustrades, with live
(backpackers.co.za). The Tulip Hotel
through excitement rather than fear. & Conference Centre costs £28pn music and laughter ringing in my ears, it
“Look!” I yell, as a tiny pup leaps out of for a double (hotelclub.com). could be New Orleans’ French Quarter
CURRENCY £1= ZAR12.61 (South
the water. “A baby sea lion.” The bug- during Mardi Gras rather than Africa on
African Rand)
eyed scamp swims within a whisker’s SEE capetown.travel a week-night.
length of us, lapping up the attention. I’m staying a short taxi-ride away in
“Only in Cape Town,” I say afterwards. It’s a cheesy Observatory – a bohemian suburb packed with buzzing
sentiment, but the so-called ‘LA of Africa’ more than lives hole-in-the-wall bars, shabby-chic cafes, and restaurants
up to its gushing reviews. where you can enjoy anything from a quiet coffee over a
The Mediterranean climate, exhilarating mix of cultures, book to a sumptuous three-course meal for less than a
laid-back pace, not to mention some of the best waves in tenner, or a seriously rowdy night dancing Coyote Ugly-
the southern hemisphere, are just a snapshot of this city’s style on the bar. >>
appeal. But for others, it’s the heart-pounding range of
hair-raising activities on offer that is the draw.
GETTING THERE
Sitting down for lunch at one of the smart bistros lining Fly direct from London
the historic V&A Waterfront, troupes of fire-breathers, to Cape Town with South
jugglers and traditional African dancers on the quayside African Airways (flysaa.
offer ample entertainment as we plot our adventures. com) from £720 return. Fly
SOUTH
indirect with Etihad, via Abu AFRICA
First up? Climbing Table Mountain, the soaring flat-
Dhabi, from £595 return.
topped beauty that looms over the city. The three-hour (etihadairways.com) CAPE
slog up this 3500ft (1000m) peak isn’t easy, but in the end TOWN
my aching legs pale in comparison to the amazing sense
of achievement.
tntmagazine.com/destinations 19

20. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
View from Table Mountain
Riding giants I manage to give this excursion a wide birth – I’ve seen
The next morning, I wake up itching to hit the beach. From Spielberg’s blockbuster too many times to be dangled
Observatory, it’s a 30-minute drive to the premier wind- over the side of a boat like giant bait. I value my limbs
and kite-surfing hotspots at Muizenberg, where we pound intact, just the way they are, thank you very much. But
the waves for a while. It’s then on to Kalk Bay, where we I wind up regretting my fear-dictated decision when my
grab lunch at the Brass Bell – an open-sided restaurant-
cum-bar offering some of the best and most reasonably
priced grub in the city – as bikini-clad beauties and It could be New Orleans’
bronzed gods sit at rustic picnic tables. I ponder chilling
out here for the rest of the day, but the promise of seeing
French Quarter during Mardi Gras,
the pint-sized Jackass penguins further down the coast at not Africa on a week-night
Boulders Beach proves just too alluring.
The waters in this part of the Cape, known as False Bay,
may be home to animals you might more readily expect friends return, with a full complement of limbs, bragging:
to be climbing the slopes of an Antarctic iceberg, but this “They just appear out of nowhere and start circling around
stretch of coast is actually the warmest in Cape Town. Still, the boat, before swimming right up to the bars of the
if you don’t mind your surf bracing, the Atlantic coast has cage for a closer look.
great waves. In the summer (November-March), “It’s such a weird experience. There’s literally just a few
Kommetjie’s Sunset Reef boasts some of the largest waves inches of metal separating you from all those teeth.”
in the world which, on good days, can reach a giant 25ft
(eight metres) in height. South African skyfall
While the sight of the comical penguins waddling After facing death and sniggering in its face, my friends
along the beach and swimming among the bathers has decide to raise the stakes and plan a skydive over the city
me in hysterics, my pals are more concerned with setting (I again choose to opt out due to the aforementioned
up a date with the cute penguins’ mortal enemies. The limb-fears). A private transfer zips them over to an airstrip
waters off Cape Town are home to one of the world’s half an hour north of the city, and while I languish, a lonely
largest populations of great white sharks and, unbeknown chicken-shit at the poolside, they’re climbing 9000ft above
to me, cage-diving with these toothy predators is next on the peninsular, pointing out the landmarks beneath them.
the to-do list. “It’s the most fantastic way to see the city,” my friend
20 tntmagazine.com/destinations

21. SOUTH AFRICA > CAPE TOWN
DATES FOR
YOUR DIARY
Observatory Festival of Arts
This bohemian neighbourhood is transformed
into a giant festival ground during the weekend-
long music, arts and film event. Observatory’s
main streets are given over to live performances,
gigs and market stalls.
See: obsarts.org.uk
Cape Minstrels Carnival
The mixed-race community – who form the
racial majority in Cape Town – spend months
rehearsing their dance steps and creating
outlandish suits in preparation for a noisy Mardi
Gras-style parade.
See: capetownminstrels.co.za
Claire says later. “We could see Robben Island and the The Cape Town Carnival
ocean dotted with boats, and Table Mountain towering Bollywood dancers vie with Zulu “warriors” and
over the city on the other side of the bay. man-made giraffes for the crowd’s attention. This
“And the jump itself was unforgettable. After freefalling unusual festival is part Rio Carnival, part Lion
for 30 seconds, the instructor pulled the chute and we King: The Musical – with a dash of Oktoberfest
slowly drifted back down to Earth. It was so quiet.” thrown in for good measure.
See: capetowncarnival.com
Elastic fantastic
From then on all sights are set on the world’s highest
commercial bungee jump off Bloukrans Bridge – a gravity
defying 216m drop with only a chord of elastic to protect
you from a terminal ground-body interface. With this in
mind, we hire a car and set out along the tourist-clogged
but spectacular Garden Route, and it’s not long before I
discover why South Africa’s answer to Route 66 is so
popular.
The sheer number of sights and activities on offer
astounds: there’s dune boarding at De Hoop, black-water
tubing down Storms River; zip-wiring though the forests
of Tsitsikamma; and ostrich racing in Oudtshoorn. At long Cape Minstrels Carnival
last, I kiss a final goodbye to my fears and pluck up the
courage to go zip-wiring, and spend an unforgettable
afternoon whizzing through the forest canopy like a crack- safari to witness Africa’s big game in their eerie nocturnal
SAS soldier (or, at least, I like to think). world. Driving through the bush, the driver scans the
darkness, wisely ignoring the incandescent eye-shine of
Finding the Big Five the antelope and kudu standing agape by the side of the
My trip along the coast takes me as far as Addo Elephant road. After a few twists and turns, and a pride of lions that
National Park – home to the largest concentration of views us suspiciously, the driver slams on the brakes
elephants on the planet – where I book a guided night- and cuts the engine. Out of the darkness >>

22. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
World’s highest bungee
BEST OF THE REST
South African sights
you can’t miss
South Africa doesn’t begin and end with Cape
Town, so venture further afield and discover all
that this diverse, surprising and beguiling
country has to offer.
Kruger National Park, located in the north-
east of the country and comprising more than
7000 square miles, is Africa’s oldest established
wildlife park and is the perfect place to catch a
glimpse of the Big Five game animals (rhino,
lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant).
No venture to South Africa would be complete
without a trip to a township. Soweto, on the
appears a herd of more than 60 elephants marching trunk outskirts of Johannesburg and home to almost
to tail. It is the perfect end to my jaunt up-country. a million people, is often referred to as the heart-
beat of the nation.
Cape wine
Back in Cape Town, I spend my last few days flitting The Cape Winelands, to the east, are a must for
between the hubbub of the bars and restaurants of Long anyone who fancies a drop of vino with their
Street and the beach, before deciding that it’s only polite vacation, and has a wealth of special tours
to drop by some vineyards – “when in Rome” – where I taking in a variety of vineyards, all set to a
make a beeline for the Boschendal estate near the backdrop of stunning scenery.
picturesque town of Franschhoek, and while away a
blissful couple of hours sipping wine under the arms of an Hermanus, along the south-east coast, is a
oak tree. My friends and I stock up on vino and head sumptuous coastal town famed for its whale
back into the city to watch the sunset from Lion’s Head, watching, whether this be from the land or from
the sphinx-shaped hill that flanks Table Mountain. the crest and troughs of ocean waves.
After an hour-or-so climb, we reach the top and crack
open a bottle to celebrate, toasting the magnificence
before us, as the setting African sun dips ever-so-slowly
Photos: South African Tourism, Skydive Cape Town, Adam Edwards, Getty, TNT
into the Atlantic.
The others start reminiscing about their adrenaline-
fuelled holiday, while I slip into my own little world and
start planning my next visit. I just hope next time I’ll have
discovered my inner daredevil. n
See capetown.travel/country/uk
» A tandem skydive is £130 skydivecapetown.za.net
» Shark diving is £115 sharkcagediving.co.za
» Bungee jumping is £65 faceadrenalin.com
» An elephant-back safari is £85 Sweeping vineyards
addoelephantbacksafaris.co.za
22 tntmagazine.com/destinations

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tntmagazine.com/destinations 23

25. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Ogle a hippo or three in the Shire River
Malawi’s Rift Valley is
Mumbo Island startlingly bio-diverse
24 tntmagazine.com/destinations

26. Malawi Eco-SAFARI
How to eco-
safari in Malawi
Shun petrol-powered boats and electricity-guzzling hotel blocks in favour of kayaks,
camping and wildlife. Here’s how to unplug in a land-locked African paradise
WORDS JENNIFER CARR
F lying 5000 miles to get to south-east FAST FACTS Conscientious camping
WHEN TO GO The dry season is
Africa might not be environmentally Two hours later we run aground on the
the best for spotting game and lasts
friendly, but anyone eco-conscious from May to mid-November. sand that fringes Mumbo Island and sink
making the trip might sleep sounder to find ACCOMMODATION Malawi our toes into what’s best described as
has a selection of green hotels in
out how to do Malawi the green way. a sub-Saharan Eden. Shaded only by
Lilongwe, and a good range of
Natural splendour isn’t in short supply in the eco-lodges, to provide sustainable ancient fig and baobab trees, Mumbo
African country, so you don’t have to go bases for exploring the country’s remains uninhabited except for a
nature and wildlife.
the gas-guzzling route to find it. community-run eco-camp of seven chic
CURRENCY £1 = MWK250
(Malawian Kwacha) tents. Every aspect of the camp is
Float my boat SEE malawitourism.com; sustainable – the main form of energy on
lakeofstars.org; malawianstyle.com;
I curl my limbs into a blisteringly hot kayak, the island is solar power, which runs our
wilderness-safaris.com
biceps ready to battle water on the mighty bucket showers. Torches are wind-up and
Lake Malawi. Kaye, the sinewy Malawian the loos are compost drop.
who’s accompanying me across the lake, Each carefully made and set out
has his eyes locked on to one of the nine impossibly private tent area features a locally carved bed (forget
perfect islands that protrude from the most southerly lake pesky rocks sticking up under ground sheets), floor mats,
in Africa’s Rift Valley. I forget myself in the midst of a reed-walled showers and hand-stitched hammocks, all of
meditative, rhythmic paddle. Without warning, a whoosh which have been lovingly made with sustainable materials
of white plumage and two metres of startling wingspan by local hands. Even more charmingly, the tents are
flanks our starboard and almost knocks the oar from my
hands. The regal African fish eagle responsible clearly
GETTING THERE
mimicked the RAF’s execution of a perfect fly-by. Kenya Airways flies
Our first motor-free silent slink affords the kind of close- daily from London
ups you’d never get from a boisterous boat ride. With Heathrow to Lilongwe via
each dip of my paddle, a wall of shimmering vertical Nairobi from around £570
LILONGWE
(kenya-airways.com).
scales shift, disperse then rejoin; a mere fraction of the
South African Airways also
lake’s 600 indigenous species that ensure this region is one flies daily from London MALAWI
of the most bio-diverse on the planet. It’s like a Blu-Ray- Heathrow to Lilongwe via
enhanced David Attenborough documentary with me Johannesburg (flysaa.com)
and my kayak on centre stage.
tntmagazine.com/destinations 25

27. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Kayak to Mumbo
built into a second, smaller bouldered outcrop that’s Going green
joined to the main island via a twinkling walkway of solar- Malawi’s eco merits don’t end on Mumbo. After
powered fairy lights. (begrudgingly) bidding adieu to my million-star hammock,
I kayak back to Cape Maclear and pick the brains of
Chill-out time a local tour guide and founder of Malawian Style, Mike
The key to Mumbo, I quickly discover, is to unplug yourself Varndell, on other guilt-free delights to be enjoyed in
from the everyday. I spend the first morning chasing Malawi. A specialist in small, sustainable experiences for
iridescent blue crabs and fuchsia-coloured cichlid fish grown-up backpackers, Varndell suggests Mt Mulanje –
around the rocky shallows of Mumbo’s main beach. “an undiscovered natural wonder that offers tiered rock
My submerged squeals are lost on the other guests, all pools, challenging hiking and rock climbing through one
thankfully too preoccupied in their own gleeful aquatic of the highest isolated granite inselbergs on the planet”.
discoveries. It’s not just fish that vie for your attention The 900m hike can be completed in two days, with an
either; dainty pied kingfisher perch on low-hanging overnight stop in a scenic mountain chalet.
branches, which are accessorised by acid-green vine
snakes. Meanwhile, Cape Claw otters flop in and out of Animal magic
the heat while giant, 1.2m-long monitor lizards shuffle To see some impressive wildlife, opt for pedals on the high
surreptitiously into the camp’s chill-out lounge. elevation grasslands that comprise the famed Nyika
Plateau. With parts of the park crossing into northern
Forest fun Zambia, the plateau forms part of Malawi’s oldest national
One afternoon we take a forest walk up to a famed park and plays host to the largest concentration of
sunset lookout and breathe in the fragrance of fig trees, leopards in central Africa. The region makes for a rewarding
thickening the air with top notes of fructose. As dusk thigh-burn some 2000 metres above sea level on possibly the
beckons I speed back for freezing local beer from the smoothest trails in Malawi. Besides breathtaking views of
camp’s stripped-back bar. Swigging the brew from the the thickly forested valley below, Nyika’s less-frequented
soporific comfort of my hammock, I gaze upon the lower region offers an additional reward: antelope,
hundreds of lantern-lit fishermen’s boats that wink at me elephant, rhino and plentiful zebra are all regularly
through night’s blanket. I understand all too well why spotted grazing on the expansive grasslands.
David Livingstone christened this place the Lake Of Stars Another spot Vandell cites as essential is Liwonde
when he first visited in the 1800s. National Park, where Mvuu Lodge, a sustainable nature
26 tntmagazine.com/destinations

28. Malawi Eco-SAFARI
LAKE OF STARS FESTIVAL
Lake Of Stars has a hell of a reputation to live
up to. Dubbed by Q Magazine as the “best festival
in the world”, the four-day international festival
of the arts has hosted acts including The
Noisettes, Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly, Beverley
Knight, MistaJam, Goldierocks, Foals and Baio
from the mighty Vampire Weekend.
Alongside the big acts, revellers are treated to
sets from local performers and DJs. The event
attracts people from all around the world who
are keen to party with the locals, all to a
soundtrack of Malawian dub, reggae, ska, hip
hop, funk and soul.
The festival, which was inspired by Live Aid,
WOMAD and Glastonbury, aims to use the arts to
boost Malawi’s economy and get exposure for the
country as a tourist destination. And over the
camp, teeters on a bend of the crocodile-infested Shire eight years since its inception, more and more
River in the Rift Valley. The camp successfully bridges the music lovers have come to join the party (last
divide between Malawian communities and existing year there were 3800 attendees) at the Sunbird
wildlife. Hundreds of locals benefit from employment at Nkopola Lodge on the palm-fringed shores of
the camp and there are obvious signs of reforestation as Mangochi, at the southern tip of Lake Malawi.
we approach the main heart of the lodge. After a quick The festival, which is run almost entirely by
run-through on camp protocol – “the bongo in your room volunteers, generated more than £620,000 for
is to bang if you need escorting through the camp after Malawi’s economy in 2010. But as well as
helping existing companies, £1 from every ticket
Low-hanging branches are goes to the MicroLoan Foundation, which helps
people set up small, self-sustainable businesses.
accessorised by acid-green There’s also a Lake of Stars outreach
programme which puts on a series of musical,
vine snakes educational and sporting events for the local
community.
dark” – we set off on a sunset cruise in one of the camp’s Tickets cost £85 and the festival takes place
eco-friendly four-stroke engine boats to explore the river. every October.
We encounter umpteen hippo, waterbuck, birdlife, See: lakeofstars.org
elephants and river crocodiles during the two-hour cruise.
It’s hard to be anything but awed. As my eyes adjust to
Photos: Malawi Tourism, Ian Cummings, Getty, Thinkstock
the growing twilight, the sun’s alchemy flecking the river
with a burnt, blushing rose gold, I’m reminded yet again
that some of the best experiences in travel need no
human intervention. n
» Jennifer Carr travelled with Malawian Style and Mvuu
Camp. Malawian Style offers a range of safaris, from
kayaking and sailing to hiking and biking. See the
malawianstyle.com for prices
tntmagazine.com/destinations 27

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28

30. GARDEN ROUTE TOP 5
Get face-to-face with Jaws
Best of the
Garden Route
Cage dive with sharks, slug the country’s best port and explore underground, all in
one whirlwind trip. There’s a reason South Africa’s Route 66 is so popular ...
WORDS ALASDAIR MORTON
T he Garden Route is an impossibly scenic and
inspirational stretch of south-east Cape coastline
– 200km in length and bordered on one side by the
their mortality in the most adrenaline-charged of manners,
the Garden Route offers many unique ways in which to
counterbalance the tranquillity of the natural environment
Tsitsikamma and Outeniqua mountains, and the Indian with some adventurous activities.
Ocean on the other. It’s so named because its vegetated
state (think colour-drenched flora and fauna and lush 1 Jumping into oblivion
lagoons and lakes) contrasts so dramatically with the For anyone with nerves of steel, the world’s highest, biggest,
country’s arid interior. most badass bungee jump awaits – 216m off the Bloukrantz
But this is just part of the area’s appeal. For those with Bridge near Plettenberg Bay. If that’s not enough, then
something of the daredevil about them, who enjoy facing there is an alternative option – jumping out of one of
tntmagazine.com/destinations 29

31. DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Visit the port capital
Cape Town’s cable cars high above Table Mountain.
But the ultimate way to see the sights is to skydive.
From the vantage point of 10,000 feet above, experience
a 30-second freefall followed by a five-minute glide to the
ground. The scenic Route coast to the south of Port Elizabeth
is the perfect backdrop over which to take the plunge.
See: gardenroute.co.za
2 Calitzdorp
A small town located in the heart of the Klein Karoo region,
Calitzdorp is a quaint place to visit. Apart from its quirksome
charm, it also has something more tangible going for it – it’s
the port capital of the country.
Known as such because of the quality of the port
made in this region, it is a must-visit for anyone looking to
sample the local fortified produce.
See: calitzdorp.co.za
Go underground
3 Shark diving
Coming face-to-face with the rows and rows of cerrated
GETTING THERE
teeth that belong to one of this planet’s deadliest
Flights from London SOUTH AFRICA
predators is what the shark diving experience is all about. Gatwick to Cape Town, via
The waters off the Route are home to one of the largest Istanbul, start around £505
populations of great whites anywhere, making it the return with Turkish Airlines.
CAPE Oudrtshoorn
perfect place to get up close and personal with this (turkishairlines.com) TOWN
fearsome creature. Port
Elizabeth
See: sharkwatchsa.com
INDIAN OCEAN
4 Oudtshoorn
The Garden Route has scenery to die for, but the town of
Oudtshoorn is known for a particular kind of ‘underground’
appeal. The subterranean limestone caverns of the Cango
Caves offer a glimpse of a bewitching below-surface
world, where time and water have eroded the rock into
truly fantastic forms.
The region is also home to no fewer than 400 ostrich
farms. Equally impressive – but in a very different way.
See: oudtshoorninfo.com
Photos: White Shark Diving Company, South Africa Tourism, Thinkstock
5 Surfing
With some of the world’s most exquisite beaches and
waves, surfing – whether you’re a seasoned pro or a
wobbly kneed newcomer – is a pursuit this part of the
country is particularly well suited for.
The waters of the Indian Ocean boast the perfect
conditions to paddle out into, so wetsuit up and grab a
board (and if you’re a newcomer, an instructor too). Sea
kayaking’s an alternative for the balance-challenged.
See: gardenrouteadventures.com/surfing n Surf in the Indian Ocean
30 tntmagazine.com/destinations

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