The review summarizes Coriander, a modern Indian restaurant in Larchmont, New York. The decor is contemporary with neutral colors and Indian artwork. The menu is minimalist compared to other Indian restaurants, using lighter preparations and sparing oils and ghee. Dishes like eggplant chaat and lasooni ghobi are praised as starters. Curries and tandoor items like lamb chops are flavorful. While presentation is not a strength, flavors are the priority. The restaurant offers a variety of shared dishes and dessert options like cheesecake and pineapple sorbet. Overall, the review recommends Coriander for its light, modern take on Indian cuisine.

1. 2/5/2016 A Review of Coriander, in Larchmont ­ The New York Times
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N.Y. / REGION | WESTCHESTER DINING | LARCHMONT
Indian Flavors, Cool, Minimalist and
Modern
A Review of Coriander, in Larchmont
By M. H. REED MARCH 8, 2013
In these days of trendy fusion this and fusion that, diners often have to guess
what lies ahead when a restaurant claims modernity. In the case of Coriander,
in Larchmont, several factors combine to create a modern feel. The décor is
low key: a contemporary beige and charcoal color scheme, brightened by a row
of charming white lanterns in the aisle that leads to the dining room. A small
handful of cross­legged mustachioed Rajasthani figurines and a dramatic
Shiva as Nataraja the cosmic dancer set the Indian theme.
Modernity seems to have influenced the scope of the menu as well, which,
compared with that of most Indian restaurants, is minimalist. The dishes
themselves also seem lighter; oils and ghee are used sparingly, yet each dish’s
flavors and complexities remain in full force. Curries are rich and aromatic,
and tandoor roasted items are full of the flavor of marination. There’s plenty
here to choose from, and if a favorite dish isn’t on the menu, the kitchen will
whip it up if the ingredients are on hand.
Baby eggplant chaat made a terrific starter, the vegetable sautéed with a
bit of chutney and topped with fresh cilantro and mint; and under a dark
tomato and chili sauce white cauliflower florets (lasooni ghobi) were just as

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successful. Dressed in a light vinaigrette, autumn salad added a note of
freshness with its pleasing variety of chopped greens, cucumber, grape tomato,
sweet pepper, nuts and paneer. But vegetable samosas came wrapped in pastry
that was all too sturdy; and like bar food, rings of squid were battered and
fried, but with Indian spices.
Curries are splendid here, and run anywhere from mild to hot and sour,
and from creamy and thick to thin and dry. In the healthful Asian way, and
perhaps for economic reasons, meats are used abstemiously, as flavoring,
while vegetables, beans and nuts, yogurt, butter and cream and aromatic
Indian spices ingeniously carry the dishes.
Chicken can sometimes be a tad overcooked, but nothing was amiss with
chicken korma, its luscious, mild sauce thickened with pulverized nuts. The
sauce for bhuna chicken, on the other hand, was heady with smoky hot chili
and tomato. And fiery chilies delivered the heat that made lamb Kolhapuri
sing. Soothing raita helped modify the fire. Incidentally, Coriander offers
raitas with avocado and grape, but to my mind, the basic yogurt and cucumber
combination is less distracting.
Artistic presentation is not one of this restaurant’s strengths. Offerings
from the tandoori oven in particular seemed haphazard. This lack of design
might have offended the eye, but not the palate. A hefty trio kebab — enough
to feed a family — brought a quartet of chunks of lamb and of chicken three
ways. And four well­seasoned, tender lamb chops were served with
mushrooms and potatoes.
The tandoor lent a pleasantly smoky edge to five huge tiger shrimp served
on a bed of shredded, colorful vegetables. This attractive raw garnish appeared
on a number of plates, but seemed better suited to a picnic than to restaurant
dining.
Thick cut, juicy monkfish could not have been better, but mahi mahi was
overcooked and dry.

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A number of sides added zest, like tasty bhindi masala (slightly crisped
okra and onion). And the slow­cooked dal makhani could have been creamier,
but perhaps holding back on cream and butter was the “modern” way. Among
breads, kulcha with cauliflower was a treat, but paratha was tough, and our
preference is for a puffier naan.
Perhaps in testimony to the lightness of the dishes here, after a meal of
many shared items, we could still consider dessert. Rice pudding was passable.
More enjoyable were a silky dulce de leche cheesecake; and a refreshing
pineapple sorbet packed in a scooped out pineapple shell, under a drizzle of
berry juice. Cool, in every sense of the word.
●
Coriander Modern Indian
154 Larchmont Avenue
Larchmont
(914) 235­1306
corianderny.com
VERY GOOD
THE SPACE Contemporary dining room with votives flickering on comfortably
spaced tables. A few Rajasthani figurines and a dramatic statue of Shiva Nataraja
the cosmic dancer, placed in the curve of the storefront window, set the theme.
Wheelchair accessible.
THE CROWD Local clientele in neat, casual dress. Leisurely service.
THE BAR Small full bar with four seats. Cocktails, $10 and $11. Beers, $7 to $10
a bottle.
THE BILL Limited lunch menu: entrees, $12 to $22, include rice, naan, soup
and salad. Dinner entrees, à la carte, $14 to $28. All major credit cards accepted.
WHAT WE LIKED Eggplant chaat, lasooni ghobi (cauliflower), tandoori lamb

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chops, bhuna chicken curry, trio kebab, monkfish tikka, tiger shrimp, dal
makhani, lamb Kohlapuri, ghobi kulcha, pineapple sorbet, cheesecake.
IF YOU GO Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday to
Thursday and Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. Closed
Monday. Reservations accepted for groups of 6 or more. Parking on the street or
in lots nearby.
RATINGS Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor.
A version of this article appears in print on March 10, 2013, on page WE9 of the New York edition
with the headline: Indian Flavors, Cool, Minimalist and Modern.
© 2016 The New York Times Company