1. D
istrict 1, Ho Chi Minh City’s downtown, has served as the
backdrop to some of the most indelible moments of the
region’s history. Long before wall-to-wall seedy bars catered to
American G.I.’s and North Vietnamese tanks rolled down the streets,
this quarter was the elegant playground of French colonials. Even now,
the magnificent architecture on and around Dong Khoi Street—the
neighborhood’s nerve center—still attests to 100 years of French
influence. Today, with Vietnam’s embrace of free-market economics,
luxury boutiques, and stylish cafés and bars have become as familiar a
sight in District 1 as they are in Bangkok or Singapore. But this area
hasn’t lost its original, laid-back charm—at least for now.
j u l y 2 0 0 8 | t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e s e a . c o m48
insider |neighborhood
Saigon Spring.
Ho Chi Minh City has
regained its reputation as
a freewheeling yet
sophisticated metropolis.
Nowhere is that more
apparent than in its heart.
By samantha coomber
sleep
eat
3 Temple Club (29–31 Ton That
Thiep St.; 84-8/829-9244) evokes
Saigon’s Indochine era. Set in a
colonial villa (that once served as a
Hindu pilgrim guesthouse), the
restaurant reeks of refinement.
Indeed, the objets d’art and
beautifully preserved interiors
practically overshadow the
traditional Vietnamese cuisine.
Reserve a table on the glass-
encased, wooden balcony and sip
your aperitifs on plush velvet
Chesterfields in the lounge.
One of Vietnam’s
hottest designers,
Mai Lam
returned from
Australia to her
native Saigon in
1996 and
opened her über-
stylish flagship
store, 4 Mai’s
(132–134 Dong Khoi
St.; 84-8/827-2733;
mailam.com.vn). Showcased among
Harley Davidsons and framed
antique robes are Mai’s trademark,
handmade fashions and accessories,
featuring embroidery on distressed,
natural fabrics. Among the top
picks are her embellished, vintage
U.S. Army jackets.
The brainchild of Vietnamese–American
designer, Le Thuong Thao, 5 Ordinary
Bed and Breakfast (25 Dong Du St.; 84-
8/824-8262; doubles from US$35) is
anything but. In a city lacking boutique
options, this 12-room hideaway within a
five-story townhouse seamlessly blends
antique furniture and silk
décor with modern
amenities such as its
funky coffee bar.
Thoughtful touches
include piles of
paperbacks and
thick fluffy towels.
The local café scene acquired an
international flair with the opening
of 1 Mojo (88 Dong Khoi St.; 84-
8/827-2828). Part of the five-star
Sheraton Saigon (hence the snappy
service), the café touts a sleek look:
split mezzanine floors, retro
furniture and bright orange décor.
Located at Dong Khoi’s epicenter
and justifiably popular, it lures
caffeine addicts with its signature
frosted coffee and tea frappes as
well as international
fare. Additional
bonus: free
Wi-Fi.
6 Q Bar (7 Lam Son
Sq.; 84-8/823-
3479; qbarsaigon.com)
is one of Saigon’s
longest-running
bars, but it still pulls
in the crowds.
Located in the
bowels of the Opera
House, this cavernous
hangout displays eclectic tastes,
lurching from classical wall murals
to leopard-print sofas and feather-
boa ceiling lights. The lineup of
European DJ’s and smooth
cocktails (try the passion-fruit
martini) keeps this spot packed.
snack
shopplay
Around for more than
2,000 years, lacquerware
is one of Vietnam’s most
renowned crafts.
Working with local
artisans, 2 Dragon
Smile, a European-
Vietnamese ceramics
firm, brings it bang up to
date. Visit their store (74/5
Hai Ba Trung St.; 84-8/823-
1788; www.dragon-smile.com) and browse
their collection of contemporary lacquer
furniture and home wares. Their signature
design combines lacquer with slivers of
bamboo, another Vietnamese icon.
shop
vietnam
Le
ThanhCoo
Ba
Quot
Nguyen
Sieu
Opera
Hai Ba
Trung
Dong
Du
Dong
Khoi
M
ac.T.Buoi
T.T. Thiep
Le
Loi
Nguyen
Hue
Pasteur
3
1
4
2
6
5
clockwisefromtopright:courtesyofPhoebeAnnramos;courtesyofmai’s;
courtesyofordinarybedandbreakfast;courtesyofqbar;courtesyofmojo;courtesyofdragonsmile