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COURTESY VISITWILLIAMSBURG.COM
SUNDAY ◆ February 8,2015 ◆ The Tribune
Yes,
Virginia!
PHOTO COURTESY VISIT WILLIAMSBURG.COM
Virginia’s Historic Triangle is full of surprises
BAYLIFE&TRAVEL
The schooner Alliance
is silhouetted against
the sunset.
BY SALLY MOE
Tribune staff
I
t’s early morning, and a buttery glow
fills the room as the sun rises. Vaulted
ceilings reflect the warm light above a
canopied king-size bed.
Getting out of this bed is going to take
some convincing.
This is the Provence, aka room No.
25, in the Wedmore Place Hotel at Wes-
sex Hundred in Williamsburg, Virginia.
And from the plush linens and serene
quiet to the brick exterior and woodsy
surroundings of this European-style
country hotel, the property embodies a
sense of history, comfort and welcome.
With only 28 rooms — each uniquely
themed, all with wood-burning fireplac-
es — service is responsive and unfail-
ingly personal.
Located just three miles from Colo-
nial Williamsburg, the 300-acre proper-
ty that includes Wedmore Place and the
Williamsburg Winery is convenient to
the area’s many historical attractions.
But for lovers of fine wine and pleasures
of the plate, it’s altogether a destination
in itself. Tuesday through Sunday, fine
dining is an event in the award-win-
ning Café Provençal restaurant, which
features the winery’s own wines as well
as a selection curated from across the
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE COLLEGE OF WILLIAM AND MARY/SCOTT ELMQUIST
In the heart of William and Mary’s campus, Crim Dell Bridge is a popular site for students
and visitors. Lore has it if students kiss on the bridge, they will marry each other.
VIRGINIA TOURISM CORPORATION, WWW.VIRGINIA.ORG
The Gover-
nor’s Palace
at Colonial
Williamsburg
during a winter
snowstorm
There is an
archaeological
walking tour
at an ongoing
dig at Historic
Jamestowne.
ASSOCIATED PRESS FILE PHOTO
Conductor Michael Francis takes over the podium from
Stephan Sanderling this season.
BY KURT LOFT
Tribune correspondent
The state’s largest performing arts
organization is too busy mapping
out a progressive future to worry
about prognostications on the de-
mise of classical music.
Yes, Beethoven and the boys are
long dead, but they represent only
part of a rich and relevant repertoire
embraced by a thriving arts indus-
try, including The Florida Orchestra,
which today announces the lineup
for its 2015-16 season.
Beginning in October, the or-
chestra will bring to life 10 works it
has never performed as it follows a
slightly more modern path than in
previous years.
“The music director’s role is to
give the audience a balanced diet so
they come away from a program or
the season feeling enhanced,’’ says
Michael Francis, who takes over the
podium from Stephan Sanderling.
“The real issue isn’t the music, but
communication. If people under-
stand the concepts and purpose of
the programs, you’ve accomplished
your mission.’’
Francis — the fourth music di-
rector in the orchestra’s 48 years —
pieced together a masterworks sea-
son of music that caresses as much
as it challenges, with an emphasis
on American music or composers
who left Europe or Russia to live
here. He calls this narrative, which
runs through the entire season, an
“American Odyssey.’’
“We’ll follow a silken thread wo-
ven through the season exploring
some of the greatest music written
by American composers, both living
and past,’’ he says. “I’m fascinated
by how American culture grew to be
such an influence upon the inter-
national artistic and musical world,
and so we’ll also hear music by
some of the greatest composers who
FloridaOrchestra
announces2015-16season
Lineup includes
thoughtful blend
of old and new
VIRGINIA, Page 3
ORCHESTRA, Page 3
0003470666-01
TBO.com u THE TRIBUNE u SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2015 u BAYLIFE AND TRAVEL u 3
immigrated to America.’’
Highlights on this
theme include John Ad-
ams’ “City Noir’’; Aaron
Copland’s Third Sympho-
ny and the ever-popular
“Appalachian Spring’’;
John Cage’s rarely per-
formed “Third Construc-
tion’’; Andrew Norman’s
“Unstuck’’; and Christo-
pher Rouse’s “Prospero’s
Rooms.’’ Keeping true to
the adventurous, the or-
chestra will offer its own
first performances of Ga-
briel Faure’s “Dolly Suite’’;
H.K. Gruber’s “Charivari’’;
James MacMillan’s “The
World’s Ransoming’’; and
the Sixth Symphony of
Ralph Vaughan Williams.
Balancing the new will
be plenty of classic repeats:
Rachmaninoff’s Third Pi-
ano Concerto; the violin
concertos of Brahms and
Mendelssohn; Vivaldi’s
“Four Seasons’’; Mus-
sorgsky’s “Pictures at an
Exhibition’’; Mozart’s Pi-
ano Concerto No. 23 and
Symphony No. 39; and the
Suite from Strauss’s “Der
Rosenkavalier.’’ Audiences
can expect a good dose of
Beethoven, Tchaikovsky,
Ravel and other prominent
composers.
“It’s important to play
things people know,’’
Francis says. “Because it
gives us a chance to work
with the orchestra in a way
they’re familiar with.’’
The Master Chorale of
Tampa Bay will tackle two
major works: the “German
Requiem’’ of Brahms and
Handel’s heavenly oratorio
“The Messiah.’’
In its mission to reach
a broad audience, the
orchestra will buffer its
14-concert masterworks
series with nine pops pro-
grams, a dozen morning
coffee-series gigs and three
programs of orchestrated
rock music.
Single tickets range from
$15 to $65 and go on sale in
August. Subscriptions are
available now by calling
(727) 892-3337 or visiting
www.floridaorchestra.org.
Performances are at the
Straz Center in Tampa, the
Mahaffey Theater in St. Pe-
tersburg, and Ruth Eckerd
Hall in Clearwater.
Orchestra
From Page 1
IfYouGo...
I flew into Newport News airport, a small and
accessible airport I’d recommend over the
large ones.
Accommodations:
WedmorePlaceHotel
5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 941-0310; http://www.
wedmoreplace.com/
Historicattractions:
ColonialWilliamsburgHistoricArea
101 Visitor Center Drive, Williamsburg, VA 23185
(888) 965-7254; www.
colonialwilliamsburg.com
JamestownSettlement
2110 Jamestown Road, Route 31
S., Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 253-4838; (888) 593-4682
(toll free); www.historyisfun.org
HistoricJamestowne
1368 Colonial Parkway, Jamestown, VA 23081
(757) 229-4997; www.
historicjamestowne.com
YorktownBattlefieldVisitorCenter
1000 Colonial Parkway, Yorktown, VA 23690
(757) 898-2410; www.nps.gov/york/index.htm
YorktownVictoryCenter
200 Water St., Route 1020,
Yorktown, VA 23690
(757) 887-1776; www.historyisfun.
org/yorktown-victory-center/
Attractions:
Merchant’sSquare
134 N. Henry St., Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 565-8889; www.merchantssquare.org
CarriageRidethroughthe
RevolutionaryCity
122 W. Duke of Gloucester Street,
Williamsburg, VA 23185
(888) 965-7254; http://www.
colonialwilliamsburg.com/do/
tours/carriagerides/
Tour&TastingatWilliamsburg
WineryatWessexHundred
5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 941-0310; http://www.
wedmoreplace.com/
YorktownRiverCruise
Riverwalk Landing Pier, 425 Water
St., Yorktown, VA 23690
(888) 316-6422; www.sailyorktown.
com/schooner-alliance.html
Riverwalk Landing in Historic Yorktown
425 Water St., Yorktown, VA 23690
(757) 890-3370; www.riverwalklanding.com
Restaurants:
CaféProvencal
5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 941-0317; williamsburgwinery.
com/dining/cafe-provencal
BlueTalonGrillinMerchant’sSquare
420 Prince George St., Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 476-2583; www.bluetalonbistro.com
GabrielArcherTavernat
WessexHundred
5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 941-0310; http://www.
wedmoreplace.com/
RiverwalkRestaurant
323 Water St., Suite A-1, Yorktown, VA 23690
(757) 875-1522; www.riverwalkrestaurant.net
CarrotTree(deli style, two locations)
1782 Jamestown Road, Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 229-0957; www.carrottreekitchens.com
Comparingorchestras
How does the Florida
Orchestra’s programming
style stack up against other
orchestras of similar or larger
size and budget? Well, it’s
not far removed from the
2014-15 season of nearly
two dozen U.S. orchestras
surveyed by the Baltimore
Symphony Orchestra. Here
are some of the findings:
u Nearly 10 percent of
all pieces performed
were written within
the past 15 years.
u The average date
of composition of a
piece was 1886.
u Living composers made
up nearly 12 percent of
the season’s repertoire.
u Women accounted
for less than 2 percent
of all works played.
u German composers
dominated the season
with 23 percent of the total
pieces performed, followed
by Russians (19 percent)
Austrians (14 percent), and
Americans (11 percent).
globe. The more casual
farm-to-fork eatery, the
Gabriel Archer Tavern, is a
short walk from the hotel
lobby and offers a bar as
well as the option of shad-
ed al fresco dining.
The cooking at both
establishments is over-
seen by Executive Chef
Ika Zaken, who studied
at the École Supérieur de
Cuisine Française-Fer-
randi in Paris. Add to that
the range of guided wine
tastings and tours of the
winery, and gastronomes and
oenophiles will not be disap-
pointed. Nearly 200 wineries
dot the state — exceeded in
number only by California,
New York, Oregon and Wash-
ington — so Virginia is in the
cusp of becoming the next
hot wine-making destina-
tion. Early Virginians George
Washington and Thomas
Jefferson, who tried valiant-
ly but in vain to produce a
drinkable wine from their
respective vineyards, would
be proud.
❖ ❖ ❖
Halfthefunisgetting
around. Linking Williams-
burg, Jamestown and York-
town is the 23-mile Colo-
nial Parkway, easily one of
the most scenic thorough-
fares in America and one of
only 32 roads designated an
All-American Road by the
U.S. Department of Trans-
portation. Starting in James-
town at the west end and
hugging the James River for
a bit on its way to Williams-
burg, the earth-toned park-
way concludes at Yorktown
in the east, having offered
ample possibilities for wild-
life sightings along the way.
Blossoming trees, arched
brick overpasses and a tun-
nel accent the drive, which
is shielded from commercial
development, while signage
is kept to a bare minimum
to enhance the sense of un-
sullied natural beauty. The
Colonial Parkway is breath-
taking, particularly in spring
and fall, and integral to the
region’s spirit and personal-
ity, as well as the experience
of staying here.
Start your day with a
hearty breakfast of “serious
comfort food” at the delight-
ful Blue Talon Bistro in Mer-
chants Square, an inviting
colonial-styled shopping and
dining district just east of the
College of William & Mary
and adjacent to Colonial Wil-
liamsburg. The food is deli-
cious, the menu varied, and
the decor — accented with
quirky chicken-y embellish-
ments — is utterly charming.
❖ ❖ ❖
Onceyou’resufficientlyfor-
tified, know this: There will
be walking. So wear comfort-
able shoes. (Duke of Glouces-
ter Street, the district’s main
street, is about a mile long,
and the historic area takes
up about 173 acres.) Colonial
Williamsburg is a living his-
tory museum — the historic
center of Williamsburg itself
— not a theme park.
None of these properties
can (or should) be rushed
through. Each is devoted to
exacting historical detail and
ongoing research, and worth
at least a half day’s explora-
tion. You can stay at one of
four resorts in Colonial Wil-
liamsburg if you choose, or in
one of its historic homes for
an authentic, more organic
experience. But if you find
the degree of walking that’s
involved intimidating, rent
a bike at the Williamsburg
Spa (yes, there’s a spa, and
a 20,000 square foot one at
that) or use the shuttle buses
to help you get around, be-
cause your ticket buys you
access to 35 exhibition sites,
16 trade shops, three excel-
lent museums and more than
20 places to shop and dine.
A more lighthearted, but
still in-character option for
seeing Colonial Williamsburg
is a horse-drawn carriage
ride. The biggest challenge
offered by this attraction is
getting into the carriage itself;
thanks to the authenticity of
the reproduction, getting in
and out can be a tad bouncy.
Enjoy the ride for the plea-
sure of the rhythmic clip-clop
of the horseshoes, the ele-
vated point of view, and the
chance to hear some juicy
tidbits of history and lore
from your costumed driv-
er. He knows where all the
bodies are buried, and for 20
minutes or so, he’s all yours.
❖ ❖ ❖
Tothewest,inHistoric
Jamestowne — “America’s
Birthplace” and the first
landing site of the English
colonists — archaeological
walking tours escort visitors
among ongoing digs and
areas of restoration. In this
setting on the James River,
much of it shaded by soaring
trees, often stunning de-
tails are revealed about the
harrowing challenges faced
by the first colonists, partic-
ularly during the “starving
time” of 1609-10, when the
settlement faced extinction
due to a combination of dis-
ease, starvation and Indian
attacks.
These tours will leave you
with a renewed appreciation
of the modern support and
conveniences we rely on, as
well as respect for the intrep-
id spirit of those colonists
who risked everything to
bring a bold vision to life.
Yorktown — the site of
the final major battle of the
Revolutionary War — is at
the eastern terminus of the
Colonial Parkway. It is here
that, on Oct. 19, 1781, after
a nine-day siege, England’s
Gen. Charles Lord Corn-
wallis finally surrendered
to Gen. George Washing-
ton, effectively ending the
Revolutionary War. What
remains is a bucolic, gently
sloping, beautifully mani-
cured town overlooking the
York River, with a wealth
of 18th-century charm and
architecture. If it weren’t for
the town’s array of histori-
cal sites — Yorktown Victory
Center, Yorktown Battlefield
and the Yorktown Nation-
al Cemetery — detailing the
events here so many years
ago, you might not suspect
they’d even happened.
On the river’s edge is Riv-
erwalk Landing, an appeal-
ing melange of shops and
dining spots, as well as the
push-off point for Yorktown
Sailing Charters. From April
to November, the 105-foot
schooner Alliance or the 65-
foot Serenity offer sightsee-
ing cruises for exploring the
area — and its pivotal role
in our history — via the York
River. It’s a relaxing, yet edu-
cational way to cap off a visit
to a flourishing, historically
rich region of Virginia ... and
of America.
Virginia
From Page 1
PHOTO COURTESY VISITWILLIAMSBURG.COM
A Powhatan Indian village re-creation at Historic Jamestowne
VIRGINIA TOURISM CORPORATION, WWW.VIRGINIA.ORG
The Williamsburg Winery, Virginia’s largest winery, offers
daily tours, tastings and lunch.
The Jamestown area’s
first settlers envisioned
the region as a major
source of wine for the
British Empire. They
were so sure of this vi-
sion that in 1619 it was
signed into law: Every
male settler was re-
quired to plant and tend
at least 10 grape vines.
0003468407-01
0003482883-01

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BA0110208

  • 1. COURTESY VISITWILLIAMSBURG.COM SUNDAY ◆ February 8,2015 ◆ The Tribune Yes, Virginia! PHOTO COURTESY VISIT WILLIAMSBURG.COM Virginia’s Historic Triangle is full of surprises BAYLIFE&TRAVEL The schooner Alliance is silhouetted against the sunset. BY SALLY MOE Tribune staff I t’s early morning, and a buttery glow fills the room as the sun rises. Vaulted ceilings reflect the warm light above a canopied king-size bed. Getting out of this bed is going to take some convincing. This is the Provence, aka room No. 25, in the Wedmore Place Hotel at Wes- sex Hundred in Williamsburg, Virginia. And from the plush linens and serene quiet to the brick exterior and woodsy surroundings of this European-style country hotel, the property embodies a sense of history, comfort and welcome. With only 28 rooms — each uniquely themed, all with wood-burning fireplac- es — service is responsive and unfail- ingly personal. Located just three miles from Colo- nial Williamsburg, the 300-acre proper- ty that includes Wedmore Place and the Williamsburg Winery is convenient to the area’s many historical attractions. But for lovers of fine wine and pleasures of the plate, it’s altogether a destination in itself. Tuesday through Sunday, fine dining is an event in the award-win- ning Café Provençal restaurant, which features the winery’s own wines as well as a selection curated from across the PHOTO COURTESY OF THE COLLEGE OF WILLIAM AND MARY/SCOTT ELMQUIST In the heart of William and Mary’s campus, Crim Dell Bridge is a popular site for students and visitors. Lore has it if students kiss on the bridge, they will marry each other. VIRGINIA TOURISM CORPORATION, WWW.VIRGINIA.ORG The Gover- nor’s Palace at Colonial Williamsburg during a winter snowstorm There is an archaeological walking tour at an ongoing dig at Historic Jamestowne. ASSOCIATED PRESS FILE PHOTO Conductor Michael Francis takes over the podium from Stephan Sanderling this season. BY KURT LOFT Tribune correspondent The state’s largest performing arts organization is too busy mapping out a progressive future to worry about prognostications on the de- mise of classical music. Yes, Beethoven and the boys are long dead, but they represent only part of a rich and relevant repertoire embraced by a thriving arts indus- try, including The Florida Orchestra, which today announces the lineup for its 2015-16 season. Beginning in October, the or- chestra will bring to life 10 works it has never performed as it follows a slightly more modern path than in previous years. “The music director’s role is to give the audience a balanced diet so they come away from a program or the season feeling enhanced,’’ says Michael Francis, who takes over the podium from Stephan Sanderling. “The real issue isn’t the music, but communication. If people under- stand the concepts and purpose of the programs, you’ve accomplished your mission.’’ Francis — the fourth music di- rector in the orchestra’s 48 years — pieced together a masterworks sea- son of music that caresses as much as it challenges, with an emphasis on American music or composers who left Europe or Russia to live here. He calls this narrative, which runs through the entire season, an “American Odyssey.’’ “We’ll follow a silken thread wo- ven through the season exploring some of the greatest music written by American composers, both living and past,’’ he says. “I’m fascinated by how American culture grew to be such an influence upon the inter- national artistic and musical world, and so we’ll also hear music by some of the greatest composers who FloridaOrchestra announces2015-16season Lineup includes thoughtful blend of old and new VIRGINIA, Page 3 ORCHESTRA, Page 3 0003470666-01
  • 2. TBO.com u THE TRIBUNE u SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2015 u BAYLIFE AND TRAVEL u 3 immigrated to America.’’ Highlights on this theme include John Ad- ams’ “City Noir’’; Aaron Copland’s Third Sympho- ny and the ever-popular “Appalachian Spring’’; John Cage’s rarely per- formed “Third Construc- tion’’; Andrew Norman’s “Unstuck’’; and Christo- pher Rouse’s “Prospero’s Rooms.’’ Keeping true to the adventurous, the or- chestra will offer its own first performances of Ga- briel Faure’s “Dolly Suite’’; H.K. Gruber’s “Charivari’’; James MacMillan’s “The World’s Ransoming’’; and the Sixth Symphony of Ralph Vaughan Williams. Balancing the new will be plenty of classic repeats: Rachmaninoff’s Third Pi- ano Concerto; the violin concertos of Brahms and Mendelssohn; Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons’’; Mus- sorgsky’s “Pictures at an Exhibition’’; Mozart’s Pi- ano Concerto No. 23 and Symphony No. 39; and the Suite from Strauss’s “Der Rosenkavalier.’’ Audiences can expect a good dose of Beethoven, Tchaikovsky, Ravel and other prominent composers. “It’s important to play things people know,’’ Francis says. “Because it gives us a chance to work with the orchestra in a way they’re familiar with.’’ The Master Chorale of Tampa Bay will tackle two major works: the “German Requiem’’ of Brahms and Handel’s heavenly oratorio “The Messiah.’’ In its mission to reach a broad audience, the orchestra will buffer its 14-concert masterworks series with nine pops pro- grams, a dozen morning coffee-series gigs and three programs of orchestrated rock music. Single tickets range from $15 to $65 and go on sale in August. Subscriptions are available now by calling (727) 892-3337 or visiting www.floridaorchestra.org. Performances are at the Straz Center in Tampa, the Mahaffey Theater in St. Pe- tersburg, and Ruth Eckerd Hall in Clearwater. Orchestra From Page 1 IfYouGo... I flew into Newport News airport, a small and accessible airport I’d recommend over the large ones. Accommodations: WedmorePlaceHotel 5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 941-0310; http://www. wedmoreplace.com/ Historicattractions: ColonialWilliamsburgHistoricArea 101 Visitor Center Drive, Williamsburg, VA 23185 (888) 965-7254; www. colonialwilliamsburg.com JamestownSettlement 2110 Jamestown Road, Route 31 S., Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 253-4838; (888) 593-4682 (toll free); www.historyisfun.org HistoricJamestowne 1368 Colonial Parkway, Jamestown, VA 23081 (757) 229-4997; www. historicjamestowne.com YorktownBattlefieldVisitorCenter 1000 Colonial Parkway, Yorktown, VA 23690 (757) 898-2410; www.nps.gov/york/index.htm YorktownVictoryCenter 200 Water St., Route 1020, Yorktown, VA 23690 (757) 887-1776; www.historyisfun. org/yorktown-victory-center/ Attractions: Merchant’sSquare 134 N. Henry St., Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 565-8889; www.merchantssquare.org CarriageRidethroughthe RevolutionaryCity 122 W. Duke of Gloucester Street, Williamsburg, VA 23185 (888) 965-7254; http://www. colonialwilliamsburg.com/do/ tours/carriagerides/ Tour&TastingatWilliamsburg WineryatWessexHundred 5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 941-0310; http://www. wedmoreplace.com/ YorktownRiverCruise Riverwalk Landing Pier, 425 Water St., Yorktown, VA 23690 (888) 316-6422; www.sailyorktown. com/schooner-alliance.html Riverwalk Landing in Historic Yorktown 425 Water St., Yorktown, VA 23690 (757) 890-3370; www.riverwalklanding.com Restaurants: CaféProvencal 5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 941-0317; williamsburgwinery. com/dining/cafe-provencal BlueTalonGrillinMerchant’sSquare 420 Prince George St., Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 476-2583; www.bluetalonbistro.com GabrielArcherTavernat WessexHundred 5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 941-0310; http://www. wedmoreplace.com/ RiverwalkRestaurant 323 Water St., Suite A-1, Yorktown, VA 23690 (757) 875-1522; www.riverwalkrestaurant.net CarrotTree(deli style, two locations) 1782 Jamestown Road, Williamsburg, VA 23185 (757) 229-0957; www.carrottreekitchens.com Comparingorchestras How does the Florida Orchestra’s programming style stack up against other orchestras of similar or larger size and budget? Well, it’s not far removed from the 2014-15 season of nearly two dozen U.S. orchestras surveyed by the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra. Here are some of the findings: u Nearly 10 percent of all pieces performed were written within the past 15 years. u The average date of composition of a piece was 1886. u Living composers made up nearly 12 percent of the season’s repertoire. u Women accounted for less than 2 percent of all works played. u German composers dominated the season with 23 percent of the total pieces performed, followed by Russians (19 percent) Austrians (14 percent), and Americans (11 percent). globe. The more casual farm-to-fork eatery, the Gabriel Archer Tavern, is a short walk from the hotel lobby and offers a bar as well as the option of shad- ed al fresco dining. The cooking at both establishments is over- seen by Executive Chef Ika Zaken, who studied at the École Supérieur de Cuisine Française-Fer- randi in Paris. Add to that the range of guided wine tastings and tours of the winery, and gastronomes and oenophiles will not be disap- pointed. Nearly 200 wineries dot the state — exceeded in number only by California, New York, Oregon and Wash- ington — so Virginia is in the cusp of becoming the next hot wine-making destina- tion. Early Virginians George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, who tried valiant- ly but in vain to produce a drinkable wine from their respective vineyards, would be proud. ❖ ❖ ❖ Halfthefunisgetting around. Linking Williams- burg, Jamestown and York- town is the 23-mile Colo- nial Parkway, easily one of the most scenic thorough- fares in America and one of only 32 roads designated an All-American Road by the U.S. Department of Trans- portation. Starting in James- town at the west end and hugging the James River for a bit on its way to Williams- burg, the earth-toned park- way concludes at Yorktown in the east, having offered ample possibilities for wild- life sightings along the way. Blossoming trees, arched brick overpasses and a tun- nel accent the drive, which is shielded from commercial development, while signage is kept to a bare minimum to enhance the sense of un- sullied natural beauty. The Colonial Parkway is breath- taking, particularly in spring and fall, and integral to the region’s spirit and personal- ity, as well as the experience of staying here. Start your day with a hearty breakfast of “serious comfort food” at the delight- ful Blue Talon Bistro in Mer- chants Square, an inviting colonial-styled shopping and dining district just east of the College of William & Mary and adjacent to Colonial Wil- liamsburg. The food is deli- cious, the menu varied, and the decor — accented with quirky chicken-y embellish- ments — is utterly charming. ❖ ❖ ❖ Onceyou’resufficientlyfor- tified, know this: There will be walking. So wear comfort- able shoes. (Duke of Glouces- ter Street, the district’s main street, is about a mile long, and the historic area takes up about 173 acres.) Colonial Williamsburg is a living his- tory museum — the historic center of Williamsburg itself — not a theme park. None of these properties can (or should) be rushed through. Each is devoted to exacting historical detail and ongoing research, and worth at least a half day’s explora- tion. You can stay at one of four resorts in Colonial Wil- liamsburg if you choose, or in one of its historic homes for an authentic, more organic experience. But if you find the degree of walking that’s involved intimidating, rent a bike at the Williamsburg Spa (yes, there’s a spa, and a 20,000 square foot one at that) or use the shuttle buses to help you get around, be- cause your ticket buys you access to 35 exhibition sites, 16 trade shops, three excel- lent museums and more than 20 places to shop and dine. A more lighthearted, but still in-character option for seeing Colonial Williamsburg is a horse-drawn carriage ride. The biggest challenge offered by this attraction is getting into the carriage itself; thanks to the authenticity of the reproduction, getting in and out can be a tad bouncy. Enjoy the ride for the plea- sure of the rhythmic clip-clop of the horseshoes, the ele- vated point of view, and the chance to hear some juicy tidbits of history and lore from your costumed driv- er. He knows where all the bodies are buried, and for 20 minutes or so, he’s all yours. ❖ ❖ ❖ Tothewest,inHistoric Jamestowne — “America’s Birthplace” and the first landing site of the English colonists — archaeological walking tours escort visitors among ongoing digs and areas of restoration. In this setting on the James River, much of it shaded by soaring trees, often stunning de- tails are revealed about the harrowing challenges faced by the first colonists, partic- ularly during the “starving time” of 1609-10, when the settlement faced extinction due to a combination of dis- ease, starvation and Indian attacks. These tours will leave you with a renewed appreciation of the modern support and conveniences we rely on, as well as respect for the intrep- id spirit of those colonists who risked everything to bring a bold vision to life. Yorktown — the site of the final major battle of the Revolutionary War — is at the eastern terminus of the Colonial Parkway. It is here that, on Oct. 19, 1781, after a nine-day siege, England’s Gen. Charles Lord Corn- wallis finally surrendered to Gen. George Washing- ton, effectively ending the Revolutionary War. What remains is a bucolic, gently sloping, beautifully mani- cured town overlooking the York River, with a wealth of 18th-century charm and architecture. If it weren’t for the town’s array of histori- cal sites — Yorktown Victory Center, Yorktown Battlefield and the Yorktown Nation- al Cemetery — detailing the events here so many years ago, you might not suspect they’d even happened. On the river’s edge is Riv- erwalk Landing, an appeal- ing melange of shops and dining spots, as well as the push-off point for Yorktown Sailing Charters. From April to November, the 105-foot schooner Alliance or the 65- foot Serenity offer sightsee- ing cruises for exploring the area — and its pivotal role in our history — via the York River. It’s a relaxing, yet edu- cational way to cap off a visit to a flourishing, historically rich region of Virginia ... and of America. Virginia From Page 1 PHOTO COURTESY VISITWILLIAMSBURG.COM A Powhatan Indian village re-creation at Historic Jamestowne VIRGINIA TOURISM CORPORATION, WWW.VIRGINIA.ORG The Williamsburg Winery, Virginia’s largest winery, offers daily tours, tastings and lunch. The Jamestown area’s first settlers envisioned the region as a major source of wine for the British Empire. They were so sure of this vi- sion that in 1619 it was signed into law: Every male settler was re- quired to plant and tend at least 10 grape vines. 0003468407-01 0003482883-01