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February 19, 2022
Categories: Puppy, Socialization
What is puppy socialization?
What if I told you proper socialization is about teaching your dog to ignore stuff instead of play with it?
As soon as pup’s vaccination series is complete and they are able to go out without the risk of infectious disease
transmission, many pet parents are keen to get their new addition signed up for a myriad of classes. They plan a
busy social schedule that would make most A-list celebrities look like absolute hermits by comparison… but…, not
so fast….
What’s the deal with puppy socialization?
The term can, and has, been defined in many ways. I like to think of it as teaching your dog to accept that everyday
situations, surfaces, smells, sights and sounds are normal – and nothing to get excited or worried about.
In other words, to ignore stuff instead of being scared of it or playing with it. For example: when we go out for a walk
and we meet another person or dog; we train them to react calmly by ignoring humans and pooches that pass us.
Teach Fido that other dogs and people are none of their business and you’ll have a much easier life.

In this article, I will explain why this sensitive period in your puppy’s development should be approached with
caution. Overdoing it can cause a behavioral issue and be just as bad as under-socialization.
Why is puppy socialization important?
Think about how you want your puppy to behave as an adult dog. The goal of puppy socialization is to teach them
that everyday situations are nothing to be worried about or to get excited about. We want our furry friends to behave
calmly and confidently in public, without getting overemotional in any way.
The consequences of getting it wrong can be dangerous and even life-threatening to a dog. Relinquishment of dogs
to animal shelter organisations is often due to behavioral issues – many of which could have been prevented with a
different approach to socialization.
This is an important part of their education, to help them become a confident member of your family and
community.
What age should you start puppy socialization?
The first critical socialization window begins to close at around 17 weeks of age, so time is of the essence and you
should get going right from when you bring your little one home. If possible, regular outings most days will be
beneficial to both you and your new canine family member.
Can you socialize a puppy before vaccinations?
You can take them out before they’re vaccinated, but it’s important to be safe and sensible about it. If you adopt a
puppy at two months of age, they aren’t fully vaccinated. They cannot go on the ground out in public just yet, due to
the risks of infectious diseases such as parvo and distemper.
By holding puppies and carrying them there is still a ton of value to be gained from this type of outing, so make sure
that you carry them around in a sling or use a doggy stroller!
Are puppy socialization classes necessary?
This seems to have become a buzz word over the past couple of years. Everyone has an opinion on what class you
should attend so your puppy will be “socialized” enough. Many have popped up since this has become popular but
unless a qualified behaviorist is in charge, I’d advise owners to run a mile – and here’s why…
Are puppy socialization classes safe?
Puppy kindergarten may seem like the perfect place for your new addition to meet new people and canines, but can
cause your furry friend to become mouthy and/or reactive if they are overwhelmed in these situations, and a lot of
owners do not recognize when their puppy is feeling uncomfortable, anxious or scared in a situation.
The problem is the focus on introducing our puppies to as many dogs as possible, as well as taking them to all kinds
of different events such as baby groups, the mall, farmers markets etc. without actually understanding how Fido is
feeling about being in that situation.
Over-socializing your pooch can cause reactivity and aggression, which is why I don’t recommend taking your
puppy out to every party, coffee shop or event. In my opinion as a dog trainer, I advise avoiding dog parks too!

How much socialization does my puppy need?
It is important to note that just because you take your puppy out does not mean he or she will be ‘socialized’.
Over-socialized dogs are often the ones that have had too many overwhelming interactions with other canines and
new people, to the point where their stress levels are very high around them. As a result, they may show behaviors
such as barking, lunging, mouthiness and so on.
Under-socialized dogs are the ones who have had very few experiences outside of home or other secure
environments such as backyards or gardens. If your dog is not used to contact with people or pooches, then it will be
difficult for them to cope. They may show fear signals, such as cowering or hiding, and they may be afraid of walking
anywhere.
Honestly, if I had a puppy now, I would not be letting them run around with other dogs outside of my own friends and
family and here’s why. Many caregivers contact me for help when their adolescent pooch can’t walk past another
dog on the street without losing their mind because they want to “say hello” to every canine they see.
If Fido’s expectation is to play with every dog they clap eyes on, this can lead to something called “frustrated
greeting”. This is the term used when a dog is so desperate to get to see another dog that they bark and lunge
towards them. If this results in an overload of frustration, some poor pooches can become so overstimulated that
they “redirect” and bite their owner.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, there are pups who have been “told off” too harshly by other dogs and are now
fearful of their own kind. Most pups are fairly resilient, but sometimes, it only takes one unpleasant interaction, one
harsh telling off, one aggressive encounter, for a pup to become reactive to other dogs. In many cases, it doesn’t
even have to involve any physical injury.
It is important to recognize that most dogs need small doses of exposure so they can cope in different situations and
come back for more. It is not beneficial to expose your puppy to the point where they become overwhelmed as this
can result in the development of fear-related behaviors.
As trainers, our job is not only to improve our clients’ dogs’ behavior, but also to educate them on how their dog
learns. One important aspect is recognizing how much your puppy can handle. If they aren’t having a positive
experience, it’s not good socialization. It’s important they stay comfortable in order they learn what you want them
to from those situations.
If you find your puppy is showing subtle indicators of stress such as cowering, lip licking, turning away or yawning, it
may be time to take a step back and reduce their outings for a while so they can relax and come back for more
another day. If your pup shows signs of stress or takes a while to come out of that stressed state, then avoid taking
them to similar situations for at least a few days and focus on building up their confidence and coping skills.
Few pooches will relish every socialization opportunity out there, so it is important to assess what your pup enjoys
and at which point they show stress. If their body language changes after a certain duration in a situation, then that
is the best indicator for you, whether it is too much for them or just right.
Eating is another great clue whether your furry friend is happy in a situation. When dogs are stressed, the digestive
system shuts down and they will refuse food.
For outings, choose a time when it is not too hectic and there will be less chance of your pup becoming
overwhelmed. Try to go out when they will be peckish so they are more likely to focus on you. A good way to get them

used to these stimulating environments is by ALWAYS bringing some yummy treats along.
When you arrive, have your pup on a leash and let them have a sniff around to check out the new surroundings.
Then, give them some treats or play with them, so they understand that great things happen WITH YOU in these
environments!
It is important to take your furry friend out regularly, so they recognize that these are good places for them to be. If
the first few outings do not go as planned and they become over-stimulated quickly, it is best to take them home
and try again on another occasion.
Where can I socialize my puppy?
Puppy Socialization should include:
Attending puppy class where your pup is there to focus on YOU, such as recall class or puppy obedience class
– NOT a puppy free-for-all play session.
Small, controlled groups of dogs such as your training class or puppy group, where your pup does not
necessarily get to interact with the other participants.
Small social gatherings where the surroundings are relaxed and not overwhelming for your pup.
Quiet outings to a coffee shop where pup will not be approached by people or other dogs.
Taking them to the veterinary clinic to sit in the waiting area.
Taking them out on short car rides.
Running the vacuum cleaner at home whilst they enjoy a chewie in their pen.
Watching the world go by at a distance from a park bench.
Avoid the following:
Large, rowdy groups of random dogs engaging in unstructured play, such as public dog parks, the beach and
off-leash areas.
Large social gatherings where the environment is overwhelming for your pup, such as baby groups, where you
will often find toddlers or small children running towards your pup, or malls that are crowded with too many
people.
Long outings to loud and bustling places where you don’t have an easy exit plan if your pup is uncomfortable.
Unstructured daycare – very few young dogs are suited to being in a large group and many exhibit lots of
stress signals in this type of situation.
Keep it low key and calm.
The ‘Settle on a Mat’ Game.
Another great way to introduce your pup to new surroundings without them getting overwhelmed is by playing the
‘settle on a mat’ game.
This game teaches pups that they get to make choices and it can help calm them down, even in very stimulating
environments.
The game is simple. You place a mat or towel on the ground and encourage your pup to lie down on it. When they do,
give them a treat so they know being on the mat means good things happen!

You can start off by playing this in your home and in other less distracting environments such as your backyard.
With time, you can visit busier and more distracting areas with the mat, such as coffee shops or shopping malls.
Playing the settle on a mat game during outings is a great way to build up your pup’s confidence and teach them
they get to make choices. This will go a long way to helping prevent future emotional issues with anything new or
scary! Your furry friend will associate the mat with good things, so it will help them relax in the new location.
Teach your puppy that all the good stuff comes from YOU. Aim to ensure they do not receive rewards or
reinforcement from sources you cannot control. This includes other pooches and people.
Whilst it’s important that they meet a variety of people, if they learn that other people have yummy treats, they may
want to mug strangers whenever they see them. If they learn other friendly dogs are amazing fun to play with, your
recall and handler engagement will suffer.
Teach your puppy that everything they want is within your control. This helps them focus on you and will make your
life a lot easier.
I hope that’s given you some useful info. Remember to introduce your pup to new experiences at their pace. Aim to
create a positive association with new situations, with any rewards coming from you.
If you are looking for more info on basic training, have a look at this article on how to make your training more
efficient using marker words.

March 10, 2022
Categories: Behavior, Socialization
“My dog keeps barking excessively at guests and it’s really getting on my nerves. How do I go about stopping this
behavior?”
We all want our pooches to offer a polite greeting when we have company. If the sound of the doorbell ringing sets
your dog barking at guests, there is a training method that can help your pooch be more comfortable when a new
human enters their space.
In this article, I’ll explain how to teach pup that visitors are not a threat, and can actually be a fun part of day-to-day
life!
Why do dogs bark at visitors?
The first step is to figure out why your pup is barking. Are they shy around strangers? Dogs get vocal for many
reasons when anyone comes to visit – maybe they’re excited, or maybe your dog is afraid. Many dog breeds do it to
try to warn the humans away, while others may simply be asking for attention.
If your dog or puppy barks at visitors,
Don’t yell at them, or punish them. This will only make them more anxious and could lead to problems later on.
Don’t ask your dog to sit, or pick up your dog and move towards the person – this doesn’t give them the option
to move away and could increase their anxiety.
Don’t lure them toward the person with food.

When a dog is wary of visitors, pet parents will often ask their guest to drop treats, or lure Fido towards them and
hand feed the dog. The dog takes the food but they then realize they are too close to the person for comfort and will
then feel more threatened and display behaviors such as barking, lunging, growling and even snapping.
This puts them into a position of conflict – they want the goodies and get close to the human to get them, but once
the food is gone, the fear overcomes them and the dog starts to bark. The behaviors get worse and owners wonder
why the tactic isn’t working.
Although we very often use food to help with a behavior modification program and to change negative associations
a dog has with something that worries them, I tell my clients not to have any visitors lure the dog or drop treats near
them on the floor. This puts the dog in a position of conflict and they often go over their threshold.
So what to do instead? If you’re a pet parent with a pooch who likes to greet your house callers with a volley of
vocalisation, then read on for a training program that really works.
This is where Treat and Retreat works wonders. The Treat and Retreat game is a technique that was invented by a
famous dog trainer, Suzanne Clothier. This game helps those pooches who are shy or skittish and might become
aggressive around certain people or things.
I have found this game to be very helpful when working with nervous, wary, and reactive dogs. The game does not
put the dog in a position where they have to make a decision that may cause conflict and stress. It allows the dog to
move away and get rewarded.
This is a good way to train your dog because the dog will learn that guests mean treats, but it won’t be as stressful as
if you were to give the dog treats directly or in a way that means they have to move closer to the visitor.
How to Play the Treat and Retreat Game
You’ll need some excellent high-value snacks and some people to play the Treat and Retreat game. If you don’t trust
your doggo around humans, either have them on a leash out of range of your visitor or have them behind a stair
gate for safety, as a temporary management solution, keeping them separated.
You’ll also want to know how to identify canine signs of stress so you can help them stay calm to prevent any
excessive barking before it starts.
1. This game is really simple – all you need is a bag of yummy treats and to recruit friends or family members
who are willing to help.
2. Give your volunteer some of your dog’s favorite high value rewards.
3. Ask them to ignore your dog and not to make any sudden movements.
4. As your helper arrives through the door, have them throw the high-value goodies behind the dog, so that Fido
has to add distance between themselves and the guest in order to get the food.
5. Your volunteer is not to drop goodies between them and the dog, or anywhere that will make the dog decrease
the distance between them and the human to get the reward.
6. The dog will gradually and naturally choose to come closer in between each repetition.
7. Repeat with everyone who enters the property.
Regular training using this approach and providing a positive experience around visitors can help your pup get over
their fear. Encourage other people to keep their distance until your pooch is more comfortable by using this game,
and in no time they’ll start to be relaxed and happy around callers to your home.

If your dog has problems coping in other situations, check out this article on reactivity.

March 11, 2022
Categories: Food, Chews and Treats, Training
Teaching your puppy using force free training needn’t be difficult if you have the right food to motivate them. In this
blog post, we’ll talk about the best dog treats for training that you can use to reward your dog.
In lots of books and articles by dog trainers, and at training class, you’ll hear the term “high-value rewards” being
mentioned. But what are high-value rewards? In short, they’re any tasty morsels that are irresistible to dogs, that
your pup loves and wants more than anything else.
If you’re trying to train your pup to do a new behavior, or are working with your dog in a distracting environment, any
good dog trainer will tell you it’s important to have high-value rewards in your training pouch to keep them
motivated and make learning fun.
Let’s have a look at several popular options to use as positive reinforcement for your pooch.
Manufactured dog biscuits and dried treats
Many companies make snack packets of treats. But if you give your pet too many, they might become overweight
because these treats can be high in calories and carbs. They may also contain artificial colors or flavors, unnatural
preservatives and other questionable ingredients.
They’re not particularly handy to use for training as they can be chewy and are difficult to tear into tiny bits, so you
have to give a whole biscuit that takes time to chew up and finish.
Big biscuits might cause them to feel full, which can make it more difficult for them to learn. When they have a lot of
chewing and crunching work to do every time, this can slow down your session considerably.

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A soft treat with a pliable texture can help us to get more reps in. This can be better for giving your furry friend extra
encouragement because they are easy to cut into bite sized treats to be eaten quickly. Above all, when picking store
bought treats for your dog to eat, make sure to check the ingredient label.
Fresh cooked real meats
Many of my dog training clients will tell you that their dogs adore the delicious flavor of cooked chicken and beef.
This can be low-fat, high-protein, that is packed with health advantages. It may assist in managing Fido’s weight
and give them essential proteins, vitamins, and minerals.
Good dog treats with nutritious high-grade ingredients can be expensive. Surprisingly, cooked meats can be quite a
cheap alternative to manufactured dog treats, which is why it’s so popular among canine owners.
You can break it easily into very small pieces, allowing you to offer small goodies to your dog, making it particularly
ideal for little dogs who can easily devour their entire daily calorie allowance quickly during training.
Some people worry that giving their dog human food will make them beg, but it’s all about the context. As long as
you keep it for training and don’t feed them from your plate, this shouldn’t be an issue.
Cooked meat is a fantastic option for your pet’s overall health and wellbeing, making really easy high value dog
treats that dogs love the taste of, but keep it in the fridge for freshness between sessions.
Cheese
Most pet parents will tell you their dog likes cheese, so it’s another great alternative. It’s also beneficial for pups
because it contains essential proteins and calcium they require for growing up strong.
It needn’t be an expensive option since you can break it up to the perfect size – remember we’re going for quality
rather than quantity, after all! String cheese is particularly convenient to carry too.
This is an excellent choice for all the benefits that your furry friend will get from it. Because cheese can be high in fat
and is quite calorific, feed it to your dog in moderation.
Sausage/hot dogs
Puppies adore sausage, but it isn’t particularly good for them. It’s high in salt, so give them only a little bit at a time.
Given enough sausage, it might lead to weight gain, therefore only use it for training rather than everyday
consumption.
Because it is quite stinky, it’s a good idea to put some sausage or hotdog in a Tupperware or zippy bag with their
daily ration of kibble, so the smells mingle and increase the value of their dry food. This can provide them with a
variety of tastes for regular enrichment and training without making it too fattening.
There are many different types of dog treats you can give your furry friend to motivate them during training.
Whichever option you choose, make sure it is something your pup really enjoys to keep their attention in stressful
situations and environments, and that it is healthy for them as well. As always, consult with your veterinarian before
making any changes to their diet.
Remember:

The best training rewards are tiny and squishy, making them simple for you to handle and allowing your dog
to consume them rapidly.
Some people feed their dogs liver treats, steak, unsalted lunch meats, cheerios, or whatever their dog prefers.
Keep track of your dog’s favorites and try out a variety of things. Every time you’re working to train a new or
important behavior, pull their favorites out.
Thanks for reading and I hope you found this useful. What’s your dog’s favorite training treat that makes them start
drooling?
Grab yourself a great training treat pouch to make it easy and quick to reward your dog.
Check out this post on using marker words to train your dog.

March 14, 2022
Categories: Training
If you want your dog to come back when you call them, have a read of this article on how to teach your dog recall.
What is recall?
Recall is the name given to the behavior of getting your dog’s attention and having them come running over to you
when called.
Why is recall important?
Recall is important because it allows you to keep your pup out of situations where they could get into trouble. When
they are on a walk, having them come when you call will help prevent them from chasing after another dog, getting
into the middle of a fight or becoming lost.
Here are some other potential problems that can occur if your pooch doesn’t have a good recall:
Your dog escapes the house or fenced yard and you can’t get them back.
Your dog gets too close to another dog and is attacked.
They find something really stinky and won’t come back because of the distraction.
You can’t get them back on leash when it’s time to leave the park.
These are just some ways that not being able to recall your furry friend can lead to problems, but there are many
more!

Recall is an important part of having Fido be a happy and well-behaved member of your family and society. Having
them learn proper recall is the single most important behavior in terms of safety. This is because being able to get
them to come back allows you to get control of them in any situation, no matter how much fun he is having or how
excited he might be.
Dogs trained to have a good emergency recall can enjoy a lot more freedom.
What’s a recall cue?
Firstly, choose your cue/command. This is a word or short phrase you will use to call your dog to come towards you.
It should be short and snappy, easy for your dog to understand, and not something they hear often in everyday life
that might mean something different.
Here are some examples of what your recall command can be:
“come!”
“here!”
“pup up!”
“this way!”
Remember that your recall needs to be short and easy so your dog doesn’t get confused when you use it!
Part of recall is getting your pooch to understand that “come” or “here” means “run towards me”.
Once they know what the word “come” means, you can use it to call them away from things they want, to prevent
them from getting into trouble or injuring themselves.
Why do we not just use the dog’s name for recall?
A recall word is an important tool that tells your dog exactly what you want him to do rather than just getting him to
look at you, which can lead to him doing something else instead of coming to you.
It can also be dangerous to use your dog’s name because it means different things in different situations, which can
be confusing for them. We use our dog’s names a lot during our daily interactions with them, and not always
positively!
Our recall word needs to be a sound that our dog only has great associations with, one that we’ve never used in an
angry voice and something that hasn’t become simply background noise through overuse.
We don’t want our recall word to be something the dog has already learnt to ignore.
How do I train my dog to come when called?
To teach your recall, you need to pair it with food or a favorite toy for enough instances that your dog learns when
they hear this word, something good always follows. This way, your dog will get excited when they hear it because
he knows he’ll be having fun after!
1. The first step is adding some value to the recall word. Start adding value to the command indoors at home, by
saying your dog’s recall just once, then immediately give him/her a high-value treat. The dog doesn’t have to

do anything at this stage. You’re just saying the word and putting food into your dog. This is “charging it up” to
give it value in the dog’s mind. This is the step most people miss, but it’s an important tactic for a reliable
recall.
2. At home or in the garden, have a handful of really delicious food rewards in your pocket and encourage your
dog to offer eye contact from a few feet away by using his name or making kissy noises. Once he gets excited
enough to start moving towards you, use his recall word with a cheerful voice. When he comes running, give
him a food reward and tell him what a good boy he is. Repeat this step many repetitions throughout the day,
practicing when your dog is close to you and when he’s far away from you. You want him to think that “come”
is such a fun word that he’ll run over to you no matter what.
3. Once your dog has learned this, it’s time for starting to train in slightly more challenging environments with
distractions far enough away that he can ignore them. Call him over and as he comes running to you show
him his reward. When he reaches you, give him the food and let him know you’re happy with him. You can also
play a fun game such as fetch or tug to get your dog excited about coming back to you. Be careful not to do too
many repetitions of this step, because it can backfire on you if you call him over and he doesn’t come running
because he’s not excited anymore.
4. Now your dog has mastered the recall in a low level of distraction environment, start increasing the difficulty,
such as when you are standing further away or in the presence of other people. Try to call your dog over just
once. When he comes running back to you, give him a titbit and tell him he’s a good boy.
5. Once your dog has learned recall, start using it in more distracting environments. The more different scenarios
you practice in, the better he will understand what this means when he hears it later on.
6. Finally, when your dog is very good at coming back, you can start using it in real-life situations. The recall is a
very useful tool for keeping your dog safe, so it’s important to practice this often even once he knows how to do
it.
What NOT to do when teaching your dog recall…
Here are some additional things you might want to consider:
Try not to use the recall for calling your dog for things he doesn’t like, such as having a bath. You don’t want
your dog to have a negative association with their recall. This is known as a poisoned cue.
Don’t have marathon sessions! Keep it short and exciting so that your dog is always looking forward to
training time.
Don’t use the word twice (double cueing), you need your dog to respond first time every time!
Keep your dog on a longline until their recall is 19/20, so that if they don’t respond, you can easily get them
back.
If he doesn’t come, don’t stress out or become frustrated. Dogs know when their owner is mad even before we
do. It will make your dog anxious and stressed out, which will make him less likely to come back in the future.
Rewards vs correction?
You should always use positive reinforcement such as verbal encouragement and treats to train your dog.
Punishments like yelling at your dog or intimidating him, should be avoided because it can damage trust and cause
anxiety in your pet.
It may be difficult not to yell at them for not coming back, but if you do so, he will become fearful of you and stop
listening. I wouldn’t want to run to someone if I knew I was going to be told off for doing so!
What are some ways that I can make sure my dog comes back?

Start by practicing recall with very low distractions first, then progress on to more complicated situations. Use a
longline so you can always get them back if they’re not listening and make sure to have regular recall practice
sessions.
Using high-value morsels like cooked chicken or string cheese is very helpful because your dog will want to come
back for them. Check out this post if you’re wondering what are the best dog treats for training when teaching your
dog recall.
What next?
If at first you don’t succeed, go back a step and make it easier for your dog to comply. This may mean working on
recall in an area with fewer distractions or having him quite close by to begin with.
It can take weeks or months of practice, but as long as you are using very high value rewards and lots of praise, you
will eventually see progress. Keep practicing distance recalls often and before you know it, your dog will come
running to you whenever you ask.
Good luck! Hopefully, this helped answer some of your questions.
For more help with teaching your dog recall, check out this online course by SpiritDog Training.

March 14, 2022
For more loose leash walking methods, check out this Loose Leash Walking Bundle of online training courses by
SpiritDog Training.
In this article I’ll explain how to use the “300 Peck Method” to get your furry friend to walk nicely on a loose leash.
Dogs are fantastic companions and loose leash walking is a great skill that enables you to get out and about with
your dog walking closer to heel for situations where it’s not safe for them to be off leash.
The only problem is that it’s sometimes harder to walk Fido on lead because they naturally move at a much quicker
pace than us slowcoach humans.
If your dog tends to pull on the leash, it can be frustrating and tiring. The 300 Peck Method is a great way to help train
your dog to walk nicely on a leash.
It’s simple to follow and very effective! Keep reading for more information about the 300 Peck Method and how to
use it.
When your pooch pulls on leash this can make walks stressful and a chore.
As a dog trainer, I know it can be a struggle to train your dog how not to pull, but with the right technique, learning
loose lead walking can be easy and fun for both you and your pup.
I have a foolproof system that will have Fido walking perfectly like a service dog in no time, using positive
reinforcement and without physically punishing them or constantly changing direction.

So what are you waiting for?
Time to put those hindquarters into gear and start teaching Fido some new skills! Trust me, it’s well worth the effort.
(:
Teach your dog loose leash walking with the 300 peck method
1. Start in a familiar environment with minimum distractions – indoors at home is fine – when you and your dog
are happy and relaxed. Make sure they are not too hungry, we’re going for peckish but not starving.
2. Have some tasty treats handy in a pocket or treat pouch so you can get them out quickly. Something small
with a texture that they don’t have to crunch or chew is ideal – I use sausage, cheese or chicken.
3. Start with your pup next to you facing forward, next to your left knee.
4. Take one step, say “good” and give them a treat.
5. Take two steps, say “good” and give them a treat.
6. Continue by adding one step extra between each food reinforcer. If your pup becomes distracted, go back to
#3 and start over with one step, “good” reward.
7. Try to keep it moving so you are not stopping to reward them next to your knee.
8. Count silently in your head, not out loud, otherwise your dog might make the association “When they speak, I
walk politely. When they don’t, I can be a yoyo!”
9. When rewarding, use your left hand if your pooch is on the left. This means you will need to hold the leash in the
opposite hand to the side the dog is on. Treat with your left hand to your left knee so they are not tempted to
move across in front of you.
10. Whilst we’re not looking for competition style formal heeling, but when it comes to treat delivery and
placement, make sure it’s nice and close to your knee.
11. In between rewarding your dog, aim to keep your hand on your belly button so your dog isn’t tempted to nudge
your palm or jump up.
12. Once you and your dog as practiced this in an easier environment you can add a collar or harness and leash
and take it out into the big wide world.
13. Take normal paced steps to begin with and then once you’ve taught your dog what’s required, you can
change the speed.
14. Congratulations – you’re now loose leash walking like a pro!
The start of a typical session might look like this:
Take 1 step, say “good” and reward
Take 2 steps, “good” and reward
3 steps, “good” and reward
3 steps, dog fails – start over
1 step, “good” and reward
3 steps, fail – start over
1 step, “good” and reward

Remember the hard and fast rules of the technique – go back to the beginning if your dog starts pulling or becomes
distracted. If you prefer, you can use a clicker rather than a marker word, so instead of saying “good”, you’d be
clicking and treating.
This technique enables us to increase our criteria and start to introduce a variable reinforcement schedule with
greater than 80% success rate overall – and we don’t even have to think too much about it! We just remember the
number of footsteps and add an extra footstep for the next rep and you will see steady improvement.
This method also helps get the perfect level of rewards to help your dog learn to focus on you. When we are training
in a situation that is more distracting, the rate of reinforcement (RoR) needs to be higher to make it easier for the dog
to concentrate on what they’re supposed to be doing. When our dogs become distracted and we start again at the
beginning, this gives them a better chance of succeeding.
This approach is also great for other behaviours too. This way of training animals was given its name following
experiments with pigeons after the birds were trained to peck 300 times before receiving a reward, so your only limit
is your imagination! Whatever you’re working on you can always go back to the beginning if they become
distracted!
Remember – it’s totally fine if your dog wants to sniff the ground whilst you’re on a walk, as this can help them to
stay calm, just make sure the leash is not taut. I like to use a 2 metre training leash so my dog has an opportunity
have a bit of a sniff and enjoy their walk.
I hope this technique helps you teach your pooch to walk politely so that you can enjoy getting out and about and be
blessed with a stronger bond with your dog!
Check out this post if you’re wondering what are the best dog treats for training when teaching your dog loose leash
walking.
For more loose leash walking methods, check out this Loose Leash Walking Bundle of online training courses by
SpiritDog Training.

March 14, 2022
Anyone who has ever trained a dog knows that it can be a difficult process. There are so many commands to learn
and remember, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed. But with the help of marker words for dogs, training can be a lot
easier.
In this article, we’ll discuss what marker words are and how to use them effectively in your training regimen. We’ll
also provide some tips for getting started. So if you’re looking for an easy way to train your dog, read on!
Contents of this article.
1. What does the term “marker word” mean in dog training?
2. Why is a marker word important?
3. How to use a marker word.
4. How to teach your dog the marker word.
5. What are the benefits of using marker words for dogs?
What does the term “marker word” mean in dog training?
A marker word is a one-syllable voice signal that tells your dog in no uncertain terms that he’s doing something
right.
It’s a word or sound that you can pair with whichever type of reward or reinforcement you prefer to use when your
dog makes a good choice and performs the behavior you want.
Rewards or reinforcements can include verbal praise, physical touch, play, and food treats.

Why is a marker word important?
A marker word is also known as a bridge. This is because it bridges the time lag between your pooch performing the
correct behavior and when we are able to deliver the reward.
Some trainers use a clicker instead of a marker word. This is known as clicker training. Using a marker word works
on the exact same simple concept.
Markers in training are not just for dogs. The beauty of marker training is that it can be applied to any animal.
Trainers of sea mammals use a whistle as a marker. e.g. You will see the animal perform a trick, such as targeting a
ball with their nose. At the precise moment the animal performs the behavior, the trainer blows the whistle to tell
them they’ve done a good job and then throws them a fish reward from their bait bag.
How to use a marker word.
There are a few things you’ll need before you can start using a marker word.
First, you’ll need to choose your marker word. Keep it short, easy to understand and something you don’t already
use in another context with your dog. I use “Good”, but “Nice” and “Yes” are also great marker words.
Secondly, you’ll need a way to reward Fido when he makes a good choice. This could be handler praise, petting,
playing a game of tug or another toy reward, or a food treat.
How to teach your dog the marker word.
This is the first step in training your dog what the marker word means. Just say the word – then give them a food
reward straight away!
They don’t have to do anything at this foundation stage. Your dog will learn the word means “food is coming” so
they get a positive association with the word. This step is called “charge the mark” – you are charging the marker
word.
Repeat this 10 times so your dog understands.
Later, once your dog has learned the meaning of the marker word, you can use it when your dog makes a good
choice.
For example, if your dog is in the learning process of how to sit on cue, start by luring them into the correct position.
The instant the dogs butt hits the floor, say your marker word and give them their treat (also known as “mark and
reward”).
Correct timing of the marker word is key to helping the dog know exactly why he’s receiving his reward so he knows
he’s performed the behavior correctly and will offer it again.
We can also use a marker word when dogs spontaneously offer behaviors that we would like to see more of. This is
known as “capturing”.
Remember – that which gets rewarded, gets repeated!

What are the benefits of using marker words for dogs?
There are several benefits to using a marker word. This helps your dog:
1. Understand what you want from him.
2. Make better choices in the future.
3. Connect with you.
4. Stay motivated and engaged during a formal training exercise session.
Dog training is essential for a happy and healthy relationship. Using a verbal marker as part of your training
program can be a great way to help them understand new commands.
Trained dogs are enjoyable to be around, so teach your pooch useful new behaviors in an efficient way with the
power of marker training.
I first read about marker training in Karen Pryor’s ground-breaking book “Don’t Shoot the Dog”, and it has helped so
many of my clients to add clarity and speed up their training. The book is just as relevant now as it was when it was
published, so if you haven’t read it, grab yourself a copy.
Check out this post if you’re wondering what are the best dog treats for training when teaching your dog using
marker words.
I hope you found this article useful. If you want to explore marker training further, why not check out this online
course by Canine Principles.

March 15, 2022
Categories: Behavior
We’ve all seen dogs that can’t go out walking on leash without having what looks like multiple spontaneous nuclear
reactions!
Perhaps you have a dog who is intimidated by other dogs, moving bicycles, or thunderstorms. Some are over-
emotional with just about anything that comes their way.
They may bark and lunge at everything they see and hear from outside the house, jump up on visitors or guests that
come over, and perhaps even snap at them when they try to touch them.
Many think this is a sign of dominance or aggression, but that’s rarely the case. In many cases, dogs that are overly
reactive with most things outside their house may simply be nervous and worried.
The good news is that you can help them overcome the fright they feel when they react inappropriately. You don’t
have to wait for things to get better on their own, but you can choose to make a difference by using classical and
operant conditioning training techniques, using treats and praise when you see Fido responding “normally” to the
world around him.
The problem is more common than you think, but if your pooch is showing signs of this feeling anxious all the time
there are things you can do to help them feel more comfortable and learn to trust that their environment is safe.
If you’re interested in helping Fido feel a little bit less stressed and a lot more confident, then you’ll want to read on.
What is reactivity?

Dogs that display a negative response towards other dogs or people can be said to be reactive. This is usually due to
them being scared or anxious. The things that typically worry a dog and cause a negative reaction can include
things they see, hear, or smell. They are trying to avoid or escape from anything they see as a threat. Another form of
reactivity is based on wanting access to something but not being able to get it, such as with barrier frustration.
What does a reactive dog do?
Symptoms include:
aggressive body language – stiffness, stillness and staring
barking and lunging,
growling,
snapping and biting
These are all examples of actions that a reactive dog may resort to.
Intensity of dog reactivity.
There are different levels of intensity. It may take the form of seemingly innocuous excitement when approaching
another dog or person, to a snarling, uncontrollable rage in some cases. However, it can be considered a serious
issue that needs treatment.
The treatment is behavior training, sometimes in conjunction with antidepressant medications. If medication is
used, this should always be paired with a behavior modification plan that aims to teach them a more appropriate
way to behave upon being exposed to the trigger. It is of the utmost importance to work on changing the underlying
emotion the dog feels when they encounter the stimulus by creating a better association, using counter-
conditioning and desensitization.
Is reactivity dangerous?
It can be very dangerous for both the dog that acts this way, and other animals and humans in their proximity. The
most notable and immediate danger is the possibility of biting, which often occurs when they act out of fear and try
to escape from whatever they see as a threat.
Treatment should always be done under supervision by a qualified trainer or veterinary behaviorist.
How can I tell if my dog is exhibiting reactivity?
If your dog’s behavior meets any of the descriptions above, it’s time to seek help!
If you’re looking for professional help with reactivity but an in-person behaviorist isn’t an option right now, why not
try this online course on reactivity from Canine Principles or this one on Tackling Reactivity by SpiritDog Training.
What are some behaviors that are sometimes confused with reactivity?
There are a number of other problems that can resemble it. To diagnose it properly, a veterinarian will need to rule
out any medical condition that may be causing these symptoms, as well as finding out what sparks the behavior in
order to create a suitable treatment plan.

It is sometimes confused with play that has become too rough due to misinterpreted signals from the dog or owner.
Where a dog is responding to being treated or trained harshly, this can also look like they are reactive.
The unwanted actions can also be easily inadvertently reinforced by dog owners, so it is important to seek
professional help to overcome the problem.
What causes reactivity in dogs?
It can be caused by a number of different factors. Fear and anxiety are the primary causes. It is sometimes the result
of inadequate socialization and negative interactions with humans and other dogs during puppyhood. Some
puppies that display low levels of socialization during the early stages of development may never gain confidence in
new situations.
It can be activated by a traumatic event, such as being attacked by another dog or even being hit by a car.
Genetics can also have a big role. Dogs bred to perform roles involving guarding property or livestock are more likely
to display these traits. If the breed standard for your dog’s temperament mentions the terms “aloof” or “wary of
strangers” you should assume this means “high incidence of reactivity in the breed”!
Pain can be a factor. A dog in pain is more likely to act this way because they don’t want anyone touching them or
other dogs bouncing around near them. This is more likely in older dogs who are more likely to have undiagnosed
joint pain, but is not as rare in younger dogs as you may think.
Dogs who do not have outlets for exhibiting natural species- and breed-specific behaviors (i.e. doing things that
dogs love to do) are also at higher risk of developing behavioral problems.
Hormonal fluctuations can also affect behavior.
Digestive issues are another possibility. Studies of rodents suggest a link between gut flora, brain function, and
anxiousness/depression.
What should I do if my dog is reactive?
There is no quick fix.
If you think your furry friend may have a serious issue, it is important to get the right help. This will allow you to find
the root of the problem and fix it.
If you cannot control your dog, you should not continue to work with them on your own. If the behavior continues to
get worse, it might be too dangerous for you to handle them. Get help before it gets to this point.
When to consult a qualified pro for help with dog reactivity.
Canine behavior problems should always be taken seriously and should be treated by a pro. There are many
potential reasons for the issue, and each case is unique.
One of the most important things you can do to help your dog overcome their problems is to work with an
experienced force-free trainer. They’ll be able to assess your dog’s unique situation and recommend strategies to
help them overcome their issues.

IIf you’re looking for professional help with reactivity but an in-person behaviorist isn’t an option right now, why not
What are the most important steps I can take if my dog is reactive?
Start with management to keep everyone safe. Aim to keep your dog at a distance from whatever it is that worries
them where they do not feel the need to react.
Train focus games with your dog. Teach them to look at you on cue and train a hand touch, where the dog’s nose
boops your palm. Use these skills to help diffuse situations by getting your dog’s attention and giving them a visual
task to perform.
Maintain a relaxed, confident manner both when you are working with your dog. For example, if they bark at
someone or something, your first priority is to add distance. After that, aim to act calmly and confidently around
your dog. Speak in a normal voice. Do not babble or play excitedly. They do not need an additional reason to
overreact.
Watch your dog for signs they are uneasy and try to keep them under their threshold.
Whether our dogs are excited about playing frisbee or stressed by a dog vocalizing at them, the same hormone is
released – cortisol. Aim to keep things low key and peaceful for your pooch.
Block visual access to the things your dog is worried by, e.g. use window film or blinds to screen the view if they are
scared of anything going past on the street.
Develop a cortisol reduction doggy-be-calm plan. This should include everything from controlled exercise to diet
recommendations (looking at what you are feeding your dog can make a difference), plenty of naps and resting
periods, environmental enrichment to training games, sniff walks, as well as ensuring your dog always has suitable
items to chew on, eg bully sticks, rope toys.
Can a reactive dog be cured?
Positive reinforcement is an effective means of achieving lasting change. This type of training can be helpful in
teaching Fido how to respond correctly in different situations, whilst also changing the underlying emotion that the
dog experiences when they see things they’re worried by.
Can reactivity be prevented?
It is important for pet parents to be aware of the different traits that come with different breeds. It is also important
for young dogs to be socialized, so that everyone involved (the dog and its owner) can have a fulfilling life.
If you’re thinking of getting a dog, watch out for puppies who are very shy, avoid contact or freeze up when faced
with new situations. This may be the result of genetics or poor socialization during their first few weeks. Calm,
confident, curious and content puppies are far more likely to become well-adjusted adults.
Effective socialization is the best way of preventing problems developing. Puppies should be introduced carefully to
new experiences, including people, places, objects and other creatures, ensuring these interactions are unexciting
and not overwhelming. This will help them learn how to respond to everyday situations appropriately.

What NOT to do when your dog is reactive
Do not correct or punish them if your dog is reacting. This will increase their distrust and make things worse. Avoid
physical punishment as this can lead to accidental harm, and may damage your relationship with your dog.
Avoid allowing your dog to bark when they’re worried. This will only increase their stress level and strengthen the
reaction.
Don’t force your dog to “face their fears”. Keep them away from the things they are scared of to avoid making the
problem worse.
What are the consequences of owners’ inability to resolve this issue?
A 2018 study found that one in three deaths of 264,000 U.K. dogs younger than 3 years old were linked to
“undesirable” behaviors. Dogs that act this way can be a danger to both animal and human health. They may be
abandoned or even euthanized. Their welfare can be at risk due to emotional motivations for the way they behave or
from the methods used by pet parents to resolve the problem.
What to do next…
The most effective way to treat this issue is through socialization and behavior modification techniques, so find
someone qualified to help you resolve the problem and help your pooch live a happy life.
Check out my post on how to stop your dog barking at guests if your dog is reactive to visitors.
If you’re looking for professional help with reactivity but an in-person behaviorist isn’t an option right now, why not

March 15, 2022
Resource guarding is a natural behavior that is present in most animals of any species – including humans. We all
want to keep hold of our stuff!
Resource guarding becomes a problem when a dog’s urge to keep people or dogs away from their prized
possessions or food, and to keep hold of things, gets overamplified and out of control.
Although some breeds are more likely to resource guard than others, any dog can exhibit guarding behaviour, no
matter it’s breed or size.
Contents of this article:
1. What is resource guarding in dogs?
2. What are signs of resource guarding in dogs?
3. Intensity of resource guarding in dogs.
4. Is resource guarding dangerous?
5. Different types of resource guarding in dogs.
1. Dog to human resource guarding.
2. Dog to dog resource guarding.
6. How can I tell if my dog is resource guarding?
7. Are there other behaviors that are sometimes confused with resource guarding in dogs?
8. What causes resource guarding in dogs?
9. What should I do if my dog is resource guarding?
10. When to consult a canine professional about resource guarding in dogs.
11. What are the most important steps I can take if my dog is resource guarding?
12. Is resource guarding in dogs curable?
13. Can resource guarding in dogs be prevented?
14. What NOT to do when your dog is resource guarding.
15. What are the consequences of owners’ inability to resolve resource guarding?
16. What to do next…

What is resource guarding in dogs?
Resource guarding is a fairly common behavior problem that dog owners seek help for.
And it’s also one of the most important to resolve, because dogs who guard their resources can be dangerous to
people and other dogs.
Resource guarding is any behaviour that a dog displays to convince others that they should stay away from an
object, place, or resource. This can include food, toys, beds, doorways, furniture and even the dog itself.
What are signs of resource guarding in dogs?
A dog that has resource guarding issues may exhibit any of the following behaviours when others approach its
valuable resources:
Posture changes – including raised hackles (hair on the back), ears pinned back, stiffness, stillness and
staring at the other dog(s) or person
Growling, lip curling
Whale eye (where the whites of the dog’s eye are visible)
Swatting or biting to remove other dog(s) or person
Directing all the dog’s focus/energy on guarding its valuable item
Dogs will often stand still over the article they’re guarding with their head lowered.
Intensity of resource guarding in dogs.
The behaviour can be exhibited in more or less intense forms:
– A dog might only show defensive behaviour, such as a stiff body and direct stare, to keep others away from its
valuable resource.
– Or a dog might go as far as growling and biting to prevent others from approaching his/her prized possession.
Is resource guarding dangerous?
When a dog is trying to guard a valuable resource from others, there’s a strong possibility that the behaviour will
increase in intensity and frequency. And without help to resolve this, it can lead to aggression towards people and
other dogs.

Resource guarding in dogs is dangerous – not just because your dog might bite someone but because resource
guarding tends to get worse over time if it’s left untreated or if it’s dealt with in the wrong way.
Different types of resource guarding in dogs.
Dog to human resource guarding.
This is thought to be the most common form of resource guarding. Resource guarding between dogs and people
tends to be more of a behaviour problem with puppies, because they have not learned how to control this yet.
Dog to dog resource guarding.
As mentioned above, this is thought to be less common than dog-to-human resource guarding, but this may simply
be because pooches in a single dog household rarely have the opportunity to resource guard their stuff from other
dogs, as the situation rarely arises.
All pet dogs live with humans but not all dogs live with other dogs.
However, it’s important that dog owners are aware of this behaviour. This is because dogs can be very aggressive
with each other if their guarding behaviours escalate, which could lead to injury or even death.
Dog to dog resource guarding between two household dogs may occur during certain periods in their lives, such as
when either are experiencing hormonal changes or when there’s a change in the canine household dynamic for any
reason.
Dog to dog resource guarding can also happen if one of the dogs is new to the household or when introducing a new
object (such as another dog bed).
Changes that cause this behaviour usually occur suddenly, and only last for a brief period. Our dog’s brains are
programmed to adapt quickly, and once these changes (and the threat they cause) disappear, resource guarding
between dogs should subside.
Dog to dog resource guarding is not an indication your dog will guard its resources from people, and many dogs are
completely tolerant of humans coming close to their resources, handling them and removing them.
How can I tell if my dog is resource guarding?
If your dog’s behaviour meets any of the descriptions above, it’s time to seek help!
If you’re looking for professional help with resource guarding but an in-person trainer isn’t an option right now, why
not try this online course on resource guarding from Canine Principles.
Are there other behaviors that are sometimes confused with resource
guarding in dogs?
A resource guarding dog is not “playing keep away”. When dogs play with a toy, they are relaxed and happy, even if
still fixated on the toy.

Resource guarding is a behaviour that can lead to injury, and it’s also one of the behaviours most likely to lead to a
dog being abandoned or given up for re-homing.
Because resource guarding is commonly seen in spaniels, the term “cocker rage” or “springer rage” pops up
regularly. A genuine case of rage differs greatly from resource guarding.
Rage is a neurological issue similar to epilepsy. If your dog is guarding items and you can identify the triggers, it is
not “rage”. I’ve worked with hundreds of dogs and I have yet to see an authentic case of rage.
What causes resource guarding in dogs?
This is a common question, and one that doesn’t have a simple answer. Very often, it is a combination of factors that
cause resource guarding.
Resource guarding can be triggered by early experiences of having a valued item removed without being given an
alternative.
Genetics can also play a big role. Part of the reason that Cocker spaniels are particularly susceptible to developing
resource guarding, is because we have bred them for generations to do their job of carrying a relatively large bird
across difficult terrain.
And in order to do that job, they must have an innate urge to have and hold objects.
When the behaviour of holding is so inherently rewarding and reinforcing for the dog, it is easy to see how a few
incidents of having something forcibly taken away from them can cause the dog to want to hold on to objects all the
more.
As with all behavioral problems, pain can be a factor.
A dog in pain is more likely to show resource guarding type behaviors e.g. if the dog is on a sofa and somebody
comes near them or sits on the sofa, this can sometimes cause pain and it will look like the dog is resource guarding
the sofa.
This is more common in older dogs who are more likely to have undiagnosed joint pain.
dogs love to do) are also at higher risk of developing behavioral problems, which can include resource guarding.
Digestive issues are sometimes implicated. Emerging science suggests gut flora is very much linked to behavioral
issues, particularly anxiety.
In a study of rodents showing anxious behaviors, when the contents of the rodents’ gut were transplanted with
another group of rodents, the recipient animals took on the temperament of the donor group.
Mice colonized with gut microbiota from stressed mice showed stress-type behaviors. The results suggest a link
between gut flora, brain function, and anxiety/depression.
What should I do if my dog is resource guarding?

If your dog shows any of the behaviours described in this article, they may be trying to protect their valuable objects
from you, other members of your household, or other dogs.
This is a serious issue that needs to be resolved as soon as possible.
When to consult a canine professional about resource guarding in dogs.
Resource guarding in dogs should always receive professional attention. There are many potential reasons for
resource guarding, and each case is unique.
One of the most important things you can do to help your dog overcome its behaviour is to work with an experienced
positive-reinforcement trainer who understands canine body language.
They’ll be able to properly assess your dog’s unique situation and recommend strategies to help them overcome
their issues.
What are the most important steps I can take if my dog is resource
guarding?
Whilst you are waiting for your behaviorist appointment, here are some general guidelines:
Don’t forcibly take anything away from your dog. If you absolutely must take something away because it’s a
life or death situation, throw down a handful of high value treats and remove the article when the dog isn’t
looking. Some dogs will get wise to this and will carry the article to the scattered treats and stand over it whilst
they vacuum up the food, so it can help to practice this treat scatter when the dog has nothing of value.
Feed them in a place where they can be left in peace – e.g. not in a narrow hallway where people need to pass
close by, or in a busy kitchen.
If your dog steals articles such as socks or teatowels from the laundry pile, keep your laundry in a hamper with
a lid and keep the dog in another room whilst you are loading and unloading the washing machine. Don’t give
them the opportunity to steal and guard items.
If your dog resource guards their food from another resident dog, keep the dogs separate for feeding or chew
times. Feeding your dogs in different rooms or in crates is an easy fix for this.
Don’t leave items lying around that might trigger your dog to guard. By removing the issues from your dog’s
immediate environment, he’ll be able to get plenty of practice being relaxed with others while not guarding his
resource.
Always have food-based training sessions in an area where your dog feels comfortable, even if you need to
feed your dog in several places around the home.
Allow your dog to adjust to his environment at his own pace, even if that means he guards resources for longer
than you’d like.
Learn how canine body language changes when dogs are feeling defensive.
Do not allow others to approach your dog when he is eating, chewing, playing with a toy, sleeping or resting.
Teach your dog behaviors that can help you move them around without manhandling them, such as a hand
touch.
Is resource guarding in dogs curable?
The best way to stop this behavior is through consistent training, effective management and positive
reinforcement.

When resource guarding isn’t resolved early on, it often gets worse as the dog gets older.
Most dogs can be trained out of their resource guarding behavior, but some may never fully overcome it completely
and it may be something you always have to be mindful of.
Can resource guarding in dogs be prevented?
It is possible to prevent resource guarding by teaching your dog that he doesn’t need to be protective over his
valued objects, but this behavior is often learned the hard way.
When others interact with your dog positively around its valued resources, it helps to desensitize your pet, so he
learns he doesn’t need to guard items from people.
If you ever need to take an item away from your dog, always trade up – this means you give them something more
valuable in return so they understand it’s in their best interest to give up the article.
If it’s not a matter of life or death, you can trade up, pretend to inspect the item and then give it back to your dog so
they get a double reward.
To prevent your dog becoming food aggressive over his bowl, whilst he’s having his food you can (from a safe
distance) add higher value treats to the bowl so he develops positive associations with having people nearby whilst
he eats.
If your dog is already showing signs of resource guarding, only do these exercises under the instruction of a qualified
canine professional.
If you’re looking for professional help with resource guarding but an in-person trainer isn’t an option right now, why
not try this online course on resource guarding from Canine Principles.
What NOT to do when your dog is resource guarding.
Never take your dog’s bowl away before he’s finished eating, or put your hands in his bowl and don’t hassle him
when he’s got something he values, otherwise you’re confirming he’s right to be worried and suspicious about
things being taken away when anyone comes close.
I sometimes see this approach being recommended on social media, but this is old, outdated advice that can make
the problem way worse. If you want to get bitten, this is a great way to go about it.
If I was in a restaurant and the server tried to take my plate whilst I was eating, they’d probably feel the sharp end of
my fork in the back of their hand! It’s the same for your dog, so don’t mess about with taking away your dog’s food.
Never punish the growl, as this is a warning. If you punish that warning, your dog will learn to skip that step and go
straight for a snap or bite. Many trainers liken this to taking the batteries out of a smoke alarm. When a dog doesn’t
give any warning before snapping or biting they then become truly very dangerous.
What are the consequences of owners’ inability to resolve resource
guarding?

Resource guarding can be a dangerous canine behavior that dog owners need to be aware of because it sometimes
results in bites and attacks on people.
This behavior can not only hurt you physically, but emotionally as well. The consequences of not being able to
resolve resource guarding are high, both for the dog and for other family members.
The dog can become aggressive towards visitors or guests. It can be dangerous for children who might play with its
toys. It could get into fights with other dogs over food or chew items that have been left out. They can even become
dangerous to their own family members.
What to do next…
If you feel like your dog might be showing signs of resource guarding, seek out the help of a qualified professional
canine behaviorist who can guide you through the steps needed to resolve the issue.
For more information about resource guarding, check our these pages:
If you need help dealing with resource guarding but an in-person session with a behaviorist isn’t an option right
now, why not check out this online course by Canine Principles?
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How do I know if my dog is resource guarding me?
Do puppies grow out of resource guarding?
Why is my dog suddenly resource guarding?
Canine Principles Resource Guarding Course

March 15, 2022
Imagine the scene – You come home from work to find your best friend has gone into destruct-o-dog mode and
eaten the sofa while you were away, ripping into the cushions and leaving foam and feathers strewn across the
floor.
The blood drains from your face as you survey the crime scene and realise what’s been going on. You try to contain
your annoyance whilst your pooch looks up at you appeasingly, batting his tail against the floor.
You’ve seen videos of dog owners coming home to devastation on social media, but it’s not so funny when it’s your
dog. And your (now ruined) sofa cushions!
This is the last straw – especially after that note you received last week from your neighbour complaining about the
barking and howling since you went back to working in the office.
If this sounds familiar, read on!
Separation anxiety in dogs is a serious problem so you are not alone.
Unfortunately, it’s estimated that up to 15 percent of all dogs suffer from some degree of separation anxiety, and it
accounts for 20-40% of all behaviorist referrals. Although the condition can sometimes be resolved through
behavioral modification, more severe cases may need medication or other treatments.
My first springer spaniel Jasper had separation anxiety, so I know what it’s like to live with this. As a qualified trainer,
I have assisted many clients to help their dogs feel more comfortable being left home alone.

What is separation anxiety?
Separation anxiety is the term used to describe dogs that exhibit stress or problem behaviors when they are left
home alone. These dogs panic when they are separated from their owners, to the point of physical signs of distress.
It’s seen most often in dogs less than 18 months old, who feel insecure when separated from their humans. The
behavior can sometimes subside over time as your dog gets older and more mature, but if it’s dealt with in the
wrong way, the problem can become worse.
If you own a dog like this and are concerned about his or her behavior, it’s important to seek professional help.
If you’re looking for professional help with separation anxiety but an in-person behaviorist isn’t an option right now,
why not try this online course on separation anxiety from Canine Principles.
What does a dog with separation anxiety do?
Symptoms of separation anxiety may include:
scratching at doors or windows, in an attempt to get out or to get to their owners
pacing
vocalising such as barking, whining or howling
ocd/repetitive type behaviors
excessive drooling
over grooming
destructive behaviors such as chewing and digging
soiling in the house
refusal of food
vomiting or defecating when left alone.
Intensity of separation anxiety.
The intensity in symptoms of separation anxiety can vary and some dogs will show only mild signs of distress with
just one or two of the behaviors described above and for a shorter period.
Dogs with a more severe case may display more symptoms from the list with high intensity and, for the entire period
they are left alone.
Dogs do not have to exhibit all the symptoms in order to be diagnosed as suffering with separation anxiety.
What types of dogs get separation anxiety?
Separation anxiety can vary between breeds, but certain kinds of dogs have a higher predisposition. These include:
Dogs bred to work closely with their humans, such as
Gundog breeds including labradors, setters and spaniels
Working breeds, e.g. german shepherds, doberman pinschers
Companion breeds, including chihuahuas, bichons and toy poodles

It is important to note that separation anxiety is also seen in mixed breeds, so it is by no means breed specific and
many dogs of the above breeds are perfectly happy to be left alone.
Separation anxiety can also occur in any dog that has experienced a traumatic event, including:
being hit by a car
having a medical procedure
receiving harsh training or punishment.
Disruption to routine or changes to the household dynamic can trigger separation anxiety e.g. alterations to your
working hours or if your family or living arrangements change.
There is no difference in the incidence of separation anxiety based on the sex of the dog. There is also no difference
based on whether the dog lives with just one person or with multiple people.
Is separation anxiety dangerous?
Some dogs will become so distressed at being left that they may hurt themselves trying to get to their owners.
My first springer spaniel, Jasper, had separation anxiety. When he was a puppy, he would hurl himself at doors
trying to reach us. Some dogs may chew objects and swallow inedible items whilst they are panicking about their
owner’s absence, which can cause intestinal blockages.
Jasper would chew at anything when he was distressed, including metal door handles, a car seatbelt, and the stair
spindles. On occasions when he had to be crated, he would attempt to chew through the bars. Damage to teeth is a
real possibility if your dog reacts that severely.
Once Jasper was older, if we left him home alone for longer than he was comfortable with, his separation anxiety
manifested as over-grooming a particular patch of fur on his front leg until it went bald and would get sore.
How can I tell if my dog is exhibiting separation anxiety?
If your dog’s behaviour meets any of the descriptions above, it’s time to seek help!
What are some behaviors that are sometimes confused with separation
anxiety?
If a dog performs these behaviours when they are with their owner, then it is unlikely to be separation anxiety.
What some dogs experience is more like Fear Of Missing Out (FOMO) rather than true separation anxiety. For
instance, a friend of mine has no problems if she exits her property by the front door, but if she leaves via the back
door and the garden, her dogs display separation anxiety type behavior – perhaps because they think she might
engage in some fun garden activity without them!
What are the causes of separation anxiety in dogs?
This is a common question, and one that doesn’t have a simple answer. Very often, it is a combination of factors that
cause separation anxiety.

Separation anxiety can be triggered by early experiences of being left alone before the dog had the confidence to
cope with that situation.
Genetics can also play a big role. Part of the reason that some breeds seem more susceptible to developing
separation anxiety is because we have bred them for many generations to work very closely with us and when a dog
becomes overdependent on their owner being present, this becomes a problem.
As with all behavioral problems, pain can be a factor. A dog in pain is more likely to show separation anxiety type
behaviors. When my Springer Spaniel Barney was recovering from surgery, he would panic and howl when I moved
further than arm’s reach of him. As a result, I spent nearly two weeks solid laying on a camp bed with him!
dogs love to do) are also at higher risk of developing behavioral problems, which can include separation anxiety.
This is especially true of high drive dogs from working line heritage with no job to do.
Digestive issues are sometimes implicated. Emerging science suggests gut flora is very much linked to behavioral
issues, particularly anxiety. In a study of rodents showing anxious behaviors, when the contents of the rodents’ gut
were transplanted with another group of rodents, the recipient animals took on the temperament of the donor
group. Mice colonized with gut microbiota from stressed mice showed stress-type behaviors. The results suggest a
link between gut flora, brain function, and anxiety/depression.
What should I do if my dog has separation anxiety?
Being separated from their humans can make dogs feel extremely vulnerable and frightened. A dog may not
understand why you left them, and may feel like they’ve done something wrong.
Aim to not leave them any longer than they are comfortable with. This may mean they need to go to a friend or
relative’s house whilst you are at work, or you may need to engage a dog walker or dog sitter. You might need to
curtail your social life temporarily in order that you can keep your dog under their threshold.
Ensuring our dogs have had some exercise, play and attention, and that we meet all their basic needs every time
before they’re left alone, is essential.
When to consult a canine professional about separation anxiety.
Separation anxiety in dogs should always receive professional attention. There are many potential reasons for
separation anxiety, and each case is unique.
One of the most important things you can do to help your dog overcome its behaviour is to work with an experienced
positive-reinforcement trainer. They’ll be able to properly assess your dog’s unique situation and recommend
strategies to help them overcome their issues.
What are the most important steps I can take if my dog exhibits
separation anxiety?
Making your dog feel more relaxed about being left alone by starting off with brief absences of only a few seconds
and building up from there is the protocol for dealing with this problem.

Desensitising your dog to your leaving cues is another part of the puzzle. Your dog may worry when you pick up your
keys or go to your shoe cupboard, or when you dress in particular clothes, so we need to teach the dog that when
these things happen, it doesn’t always mean you are going to leave them alone.
Building the dog’s general confidence can help give them the boost they need to become more relaxed when left
alone.
Julie Naismith’s book Be Right Back is a fantastic resource for separation anxiety, which includes a schedule for
working through these tactics as part of an overall strategy to overcome separation anxiety.
Is separation anxiety curable?
For most dogs yes. I have not yet met a dog where there has been no improvement with the correct training. That
said, it can be a slow process and it may be very situation specific.
We got to a point we could leave Jasper in the car for short periods, provided he wasn’t restrained (otherwise he’d
chew the seatbelts and anything else within reach), and we could leave him at home alone for a few hours.
I could never move further than 2 metres away from him without him losing his mind if I tied him to a post. When my
children were small, before I realised the gravity of Jasper’s issue, I tied him up outside school and took my son to his
classroom.
Within minutes, Jasper was next to me in the playground, having chewed through his lead! I had to remove the strap
from my son’s school bag to make a lead in order to walk Jasper back home!
We never managed to resolve this issue because we prioritised working on getting Jasper happy to be left home
alone and in the car. As with everything in dog training and behavior, choose your battles!
Can separation anxiety be prevented?
Sort of. Ensure your dog is comfortable with the amount of time they are being left alone, and gradually increase the
duration of those absences. This gives your dog the tools they need to learn to relax when they are left alone.
If your dog gets to a point where they panic when left alone, this can cause setbacks in their progress, so ensure you
go at their pace. Separation training really cannot be rushed, and you can only go at the speed dictated by the dog.
What NOT to do when your dog has separation anxiety.
Dogs suffering from separation anxiety are not being naughty, “dominant” or spiteful. They simply can’t cope
without you. Never punish your dog for exhibiting symptoms of separation anxiety as this can increase their general
levels of anxiety and make the problem worse.
What are the consequences of owners’ inability to resolve separation
anxiety?

Sadly, many dogs are surrendered to rescue shelters for separation anxiety from situations where it is unavoidable
to leave the dog home alone.
Many people do not have the resources or support to go through the separation training, as it can take a while before
a dog is comfortable to be left home alone long enough for the owner to go about their other commitments.
Therefore, if you are going to attempt to overcome this problem, it is vital to get the right advice so as not to make
the problem worse, and to deal with it in the most efficient way possible.
What to do next…
If you feel like your dog might be showing signs of separation anxiety, seek out the help of a professional canine
behaviorist who can guide you through the steps needed to resolve the issue.
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Canine Principles Separation Related Issues

March 15, 2022
What is littermate syndrome?
Littermate syndrome is an umbrella term for two young dogs raised together that develop behavioral problems
because of an unhealthy codependency. Most commonly, it develops when puppies from the same litter are placed
together in a new home, although it can happen in unrelated young dogs with up to a year’s age gap.
Behavior issues are most commonly seen in puppies adopted from the same litter, but can also occur when any two
young dogs are raised together without sufficient human intervention.
Because of this, many rescues and shelters will not allow the adoption of siblings or introducing a puppy into a
household with another dog of less than a year old.
When two young dogs are raised together, they often lack sufficient experiences with humans and other animals
outside of each other. This can lead to an extreme interaction style in which one dog may assume control, while the
other is more passive.
This type of codependency can lead to aggression, anxiety, and other behavorial problems.
How will dogs with littermate syndrome behave? What does littermate
syndrome look like?
Symptoms of Littermate Syndrome include:

extreme possessiveness over food, toys, or other items
aggression toward siblings and humans
anxiety/fearfulness in response to new stimuli (sounds, people)
anxiety when apart from each other (e.g. whining, constantly looking for the other)
social problems outside of the home
lack of bond with their humans
impossible to train, as they cannot focus without their sibling
relying on each other to the point of complete dysfunction
and general anxiety
Intensity of littermate syndrome.
Often on social media, you will hear people say that littermate syndrome doesn’t exist. That they raised two puppies
together with no problems and their dogs are inseparable. That’s literally the problem!
Littermate syndrome is not a myth. It’s real and can be very problematic for the dogs that are afflicted with it.
Imagine trying to live your life not being able to cope without your sibling being within sight… that’s what it’s like for
these dogs on a day-to-day basis.
At the severest end of the spectrum of littermate syndrome, one dog will physically bully and attack the other to the
point they will fight to the death.
Is littermate syndrome dangerous?
Many people have horror stories to share about experiences when littermate syndrome leads to extreme
aggression, with some leading a “crate and rotate” lifestyle to stop the dogs from seriously injuring each other… or
worse.
In situations like these, one lapse of control and management can lead to catastrophic consequences.
How can I tell if my dogs have littermate syndrome?
If your dogs’ behavior meets any of the descriptions above, it’s time to seek help!
What behaviors are sometimes confused with littermate syndrome?
If your dogs are anxious about being left home alone but still in sight of their sibling, it could be separation anxiety,
rather than littermate syndrome that your dogs are suffering with.
If your dogs become agitated and behave in a manner that we might describe as aggressive only when there is a
physical barrier between them such as a stair gate or crate, this could be barrier frustration.
What causes littermate syndrome in dogs?
This is a common question, and one that doesn’t have a simple answer. As with many canine behavior problems,
very often it is a combination of factors that cause littermate syndrome.
Spending too much time together without human intervention is a common theme amongst dogs that suffer from
littermate syndrome.

dogs love to do) are also at higher risk of developing behavioral problems, which can include littermate syndrome.
Should I consult a canine professional about littermate syndrome?
Littermate syndrome in dogs should always receive professional attention, as each case is unique.
An experienced, positive-reinforcement behaviorist should be contacted for help if the dogs are exhibiting any
issues. They can give recommendations on how to interact with the dogs and can help determine a plan of action
that will reduce the risk of developing problems. Littermate syndrome can become serious enough that one dog
may need rehoming.
Is littermate syndrome curable?
Not always. Many dogs with littermate syndrome can be successfully treated through training and behavior
modification (with or without medication to help with the anxiety), but many others cannot.
While it may be adorable to see one puppy following another around the house, your dogs should always be able to
spend time apart from each other without incident.
Can littermate syndrome be prevented?
As with many cases of behavioral issues, good control and management can reduce likelihood of problems. Owners
should be aware of this syndrome and be proactive in preventing it from becoming a problem.
In some cases, littermates are raised with the minimum of intervention, barely spend any time apart and grow up to
be as confident and independent as any dog raised alone. It’s a bit like walking across a busy road blindfold though
– you might be lucky and reach the other side unscathed, but the odds are not in your favour!
To actively avoid littermate syndrome, I would always advise the dogs spend as much time apart as possible,
ideally spending more one-to-one time with their human than they spend with their sibling.
Separate bowls, separate beds, separate walks, separate training, separate crates, separate everything!
Proper socialization to new people, animals, sounds, and situations should begin as early as possible. Owners
should expose puppies individually to new situations daily. This allows for positive experiences with the new stimuli
without each other present. The easiest way to achieve this is to get them used to going out for walks individually.
Playing stimulating games, doing gentle training for obedience and tricks, and other activities that allow for positive
interaction with the owner and other humans.
Teach each of your dogs to be independent and confident without needing the other’s presence. Puppies’ owners
should provide activities that decrease codependency, such as interactive toys. Enrichment puzzles and toys that
require problem-solving to get food treats will help build a dog’s confidence, rewarding them for trying new things,
and encouraging their curiosity.
When spending time together with their owner and other pets/humans, it may be beneficial for one littermate to
have a job, such as foraging or playing with interactive toys, while the other rests. This gives the dogs an outlet for
their energy and prevents them from becoming overly focussed or fixated on each other.

Get them accustomed to being left home alone individually for short periods, too. This can be invaluable if either of
your dogs ever needs to stay at the vets overnight or if you need to get them looked after separately whilst you go on
holiday.
What NOT to do when your dogs have littermate syndrome.
Don’t let them “sort it out themselves”. The dogs should be separated immediately if any fighting starts. If they are
allowed to keep interacting with each other, new issues may arise. Fighting can escalate by one dog bullying the
other and seeking out opportunities to attack, and it can lead to injuries that will become harder to treat.
Siblings should never be left alone together – especially if they started having issues at a young age. They should
also not be isolated without human contact.
What are the consequences of owners’ inability to resolve littermate
syndrome?
I’m aware of several pups who have had to be rehomed due to littermate syndrome emerging.
Not that pups are destined to get it. The chance of acquiring it can be lowered with adequate training. And,
sometimes, even with no training, it will never happen.
It’s important to remember that littermate syndrome has two faces: over-reliance on one another or hatred for one
other. There is a lot of space between those two poles for healthy development.
Is there anything else I should know about littermate syndrome?
In my experience as a trainer, sibling dogs that are not the same sex generally have better outcomes.
There is nothing wrong with having two puppies, but socialising each of them both separately and together so that
they can cope in all scenarios is actually three times the work of having one puppy.
I’ve been there and done it. If I had my time over and the circumstances were the same, I’m not sure I’d do it again. I
feel like I missed out on many aspects of each of my dog’s puppyhoods and I couldn’t give each dog as much
attention as I’d have liked. Next time, I will raise one puppy on their own and give them my undivided attention for
the first two years until they are a mature adult dog.
What to do next…
If you feel like your dogs might be showing signs of littermate syndrome, seek out the help of a professional canine
behaviorist who can guide you through the steps needed to resolve the issue.
Check out this article for more info about tactics to help avoid littermate syndrome.
Check out this article to find out at what age do puppies start calming down.

55 articles - Pet Dog Training Today.pdf

55 articles - Pet Dog Training Today.pdf

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