1. ophelia [Spring issue] 1
Ophelia[Spring Issue]

2. 2ophelia[Springissue]ophelia[Springissue]3
Contents
o4
fromnichetonecessity
06
StellaMcCartney:Fashion&
Sustainability
08
MustHaves
10
GrrrlTalk:AlexisKrauss
&SamanthaUrbani
12
DiyBodyScrubs
14
7brandstoknownow

3. 4ophelia[Springissue]ophelia[Springissue]5
C
ocoChanelonce
said:“Fashionisnot
somethingthatexists
indressesonly.Fashionisin
thesky,inthestreet,fashion
hastodowithideas,theway
welive,whatishappening.”
Asourworldchangessocially,
environmentallyandeconom-
ically,ourideasandlifestyle
choicesasconsumersand
globalcitizenshavebegunto
changeaswell.Thisshiftrais-
esmanyquestionsaboutthe
sustainabilityofourcurrent
fashionindustrypractices,
whatthiswillmeanforyoung
people,andwhatweshould
bedoingtoensureamore
viableandinnovativefashion
industryforourfuturegen-
erations.
Withrecentglobalinci-
dentssuchastheRanaPlaza
buildingcollapseinBangla-
desh,dramaticclimateshifts
andincreasingconflictover
naturalresources–sustain-
ablefashionandethicalbusi-
nessmodelsaretransforming
fromanichetoanecessity.
TheSocialImpactofthe
FashionIndustry
TheRanaPlazaBuilding
collapsethatoccurredin
April2013wasatragicway
tobringtolightthesituation
manyworkersfaceinsomeof
theleadinggarmentproduc-
ingregionsoftheworld.With
limitedworkers’rightslegis-
lationsandpoorenforcement
oftheseregulationswhere
theydoexist,workingcon-
ditionsareextremelyunsafe.
Furthermore,lowwagesand
alackofdirectmarketaccess
leadtoworkersreceiving
littleremunerationforthe
garmentstheyproduce,while
largeretailersearnhefty
margins.Theseconditions
furtherthepoorqualityoflife
andfutureprospectswhile
increasesinequalityamong
workers.Theresultsofthese
practicesisafastfashion
retailstrategythatfocuseson
bringingtrendstothemarket
inthemostefficientway,
whichbrandssuchasH&M
andZarahaveembraced.
ASustainableSolution
i
Whatwillourfuturegen-
erationsfaceifwecontinueto
focusonprofits,cheapprices
andfastfashion?Lajeunebe-
lievesthatifwedonotchange
howweproduceandconsume
fashion,thefuturewilllook
direand“wewillnotbeable
toconsumethewaywedofor
muchlonger.”
Globaloutcryandaction
againstthedamagedoneby
thefashionindustryhasled
toafocusonsustainableand
ethicalfashion.
ForLejeune:“Ethicalfash-
ionrepresentsanapproach
tothedesign,sourcingand
manufactureofclothingwhich
maximizesbenefitstopeople
andcommunitieswhilemini-
mizingimpactontheenviron-
ment.”
Byworktowardspovertyre-
duction,sustainablelivelihood
creation,andminimizingor
counteractingenvironmental
concerns,themovementis
transformingourapproachto
productionandconsumption.
Sustainablefashionre-
quires
numerousstakeholdersto
buildtheecosystemneces-
sarytopenetratemainstream
fashion.Thesestakeholdersin-
cludenot-profitorganizations
providingresources,advocacy
andothersupport,govern-
mentscreatingtheregulation
necessarytoencourageethical
enterprise,fashionretailers
andconsumers.
Itcanbearguedthat
fashionretailersplaythemost
criticalroleinbringingethical,
fashionableproductstothe
market.
WhatWilltheFutureLook
Like?
Ifwedonotchangeourbe-
havior–ourfuturegenerations
couldseeaworldwherework-
erscontinuetobeexploited,
resourcesbecomeevenscarcer
leadingtomoreirreparable
damageandconflict,and
profitsaremoreimportant
thanvalues.However,wecould
reversethistrendifwefocus
onthetriplebottomline,by
ensuringthattheprocesses
weuseinsupplychainsare
ethical.
Fashiondevelopmentis
supposedtobeacreativeand
aspirationalprocess.With
theindustrialrevolutionand
afocusonmassproduction,
muchofthischanged.Creativ-
itywasreplacedwithefficiency
andqualitywithquantity.Our
futureshouldnotandcannot
from
NIcheTo
Necessity
bethat.Ourfutureshouldbe
onewherepeopleconsume
lessandvaluetheitemsthey
consumemore,allcompanies
adoptavisionofsustainability
andthesupplychainbecomes
anempoweringandinspiring
process.
Asourclimatechanges,
ourpoliticalvaluesevolve,our
economiesseeturbulentshifts
andoursocialconsciousness
progresses–thesechanges
mustandwilltranscendinto
ourideasanddiscussions
aroundamoresustainable
fashionindustry.

4. 6ophelia[Springissue]ophelia[Springissue]7
StellaMcCartney:
Fashion&Sustainability
S
tellaMcCartneywasone
ofthefirstdesignersin
thefashionbusinessto
embraceasustainableatti-
tudeinherbusinessmodel
–fromtheproductiontothe
finalcollections.
Idesignclothesthatare
meanttolast.Ibelievein
creatingpiecesthatarenot
goingtogetburnt,thatare
notgoingtolandfillsand
thatarenotgoingtodamage
theenvironment.Forevery
pieceineverycollection,Iam
alwaysaskingwhathavewe
donetomakethisgarment
moresustainableandwhat
elsecanwedo.Itisacon-
stantefforttoimprove…
Thecompanyisalwayslook-
ingfornewwaystobemore
sustainableasitfeelsrespon-
siblefortheresourcesituses
andtheimpactitsactivities
haveontheplanet.Thissense
ofresponsibilityandforward
thinkingispresentwhenthey
designtheircollections,when
theymanufacturetheclothes
andevenwhentheyopen
newstores.
AllStellaMcCartneystores,
officesandstudiosinthe
UKarepoweredbywind
energyandabroad,theyuse
renewableenergytopower
theirstoresandofficesnot
tomentionthat45%oftheir
operationsarerunon100%
renewable,greenenergy.
Equallyinteresting,inStella
McCartney‘scollections,they
useasmuchorganiccotton
aspossibleandcontinue
todoresearchtofindnew
materialsandnewecological
processes.
Recyclingisoneofthekey
pointsofthiscompany’s
philosophy.In2012,34.3metric
tonsofwastewasdiverted
fromlandfillandrecycled
orreused–theyrecycleall
textilesthatcouldbeused.
Moreover,allStellaMcCart-
neylocationshaverecycling
systems.
Andwhenitcomestogetin-
volvedingreenprojects,Stella
McCartneydidnothesitateto
takepartontheNaturalRe-
sourceDefenseCouncilNRDC
CleanbyDesignProgramme,
becomingthefirstcompany
ofluxurygoodstocontribute
tosuchinitiatives.Cleanby
Design,“focusesonimproving
processefficiencytoreduce
wasteandemissionsandpro-
tecttheenvironment”.
Textilemanufacturinghasa
bigenvironmentalfootprint,
itpollutesaround200tonsof
waterpertonoffabricusing
manyharmfulchemicals,and
consumingenormousamounts
ofenergyforsteamandhot
water.Thisprogrammeaimsto
reducetheuseofwater(about
25%)andenergy(about30%).
It’sreallythejoboffashion
designersnowtoturnthings
ontheirheadinadifferent
way,andnotjusttrytoturna
dressonitsheadeveryseason.
Tryandaskquestionsabout
howyoumakethatdress,
whereyoumakethatdress,
whatmaterialsyouareusing.I
thinkthatisfarmoreinter-
esting,actually.Ithinkthat
thewaytocreatesustainable
fashionistokeepaskingthese
questionswhilemakingsure
tomakedesirable,luxurious,
beautifulclothingandaccesso-
riesthatwomenwanttobuy.
AmongtheStellaMcCartney
eco-friendlyproductswecan
findasustainableeyewear
collectionmadefromover
50%naturalandrenewable
resourcesusingrawmaterials
fromnaturaloriginssuchas
castor-oilseedsandcitricacid;
thebiodegradablesolesmade
fromabioplasticcalledAPINAT,
whichwilldegradewhenplaced
inmaturecompostandthe
beautifullingerieline,whichuses
recycledmetalforhardwareand
organiccottonforthegussets.
Thesearejustaportionofall
theactivitiesandinitiatives
undertakenbyStellaMcCartney.
Undoubtedly,thisisaverygood
exampleforthefashionindus-
try,whichunfortunatelydoesn’t
alwayscomplywithsuchethical
practices.Ihopethatmanyother
designersandestablishedcom-
panieswillfollowherexamplein
theyearstocome.

5. 8ophelia[Springissue]ophelia[Springissue]9

6. 10ophelia[Springissue]ophelia[Springissue]11
Grrrltalk:Theseradladiesmakeacase
forswitchingovertoall
naturalbeautyproducts.
Whiletheremaybenothing
granola-lookingaboutthem,
AlexisKraussofSleighBells
andSamanthaUrbani,who
singswithBloodOrange,make
acaseforswitchingoverto
all-naturalbeautyproducts.
SamanthaUrbani:Youknow
what’sreallycrazy?When
wefirstmet,webondedover
usingandlovingall-natural
beautyproducts.Wewerejust
like,“Duh!”
AlexisKrauss:It’sreallyin-
teresting!Ialwaysgrewupas
arelativelyconsciouscon-
sumer—butmorewithfood
andtheenvironment—untilI
learnedthatexfoliantscontain
microbeadsofsmallpieces
ofplastic,whichaccumulate
acrossoceansandgreatlakes
anddamageecosystems.I
thinkthere’sstillignorance
abouthowubiquitouscertain
ingredientsareinbeautyprod-
uctsbecauseconsumersare
toldthatit’snottoxicifit’sin
alowdose—butwe’regetting
lowdosesoftheseingredients
insomanydifferentproducts
thatitaddsup.
SU:Totally!
AK:Igotsopassionateabout
itandwantedtowritesome-
thingonthetopic,butfound
myselffrustratedwithalot
ofmainstreambeautysites
andthefactthattheydidn’t
divedeepintoissueslikehow
certainingredientsaffected
women’sbodiesandtheenvi-
ronment.ButthenImetthis
womannamedJessicaAssaf,
acosmeticactivist,anditwas
likemeetingmybandmate.
Wewerejustlike,“Fuck,let’s
startawebsitethatwomen
cangotoandsharetheirown
stories”—sowelauncheda
blogcalledBeautyLiesTruth.
It’sexcitingtoseehowmany
eyeswe’veopened.
SU:That’ssoexciting!Starting
somethinglikethatandseeing
itgrowasamovement.
AK:Yeah!Imeanit’sreallyall
abouttakingraw,wonderful
ingredientsthatcomefrom
natureandturningtheminto
formulasthatworkforyour
skinandbody.It’salsoabout
consumeractivism;wehavea
lotofbuyingpower,especially
aswomen.Therearethings
thatwehaven’tseenuntilthe
past50yearswhenchemicals
reallystartedtoinundateour
livesinacrazyway.
SU:That’ssoscary!
AK:Iknow!Howdidyouget
intousingall-naturalbeauty
alternatives?
SU:Mymomhasalwaysbeen
intoorganicthingslikeho-
meopathicmedicine,food,and
thingslikethat.WhenIwas
growingupIhadalove-
haterelationshipwiththeidea
offemininityandtheideaof
whatitmeanstobeagirl.For
years,whenIwasateenager,I
totallysworeoffmakeupand
didn’twanttowearanyofit-
atall.ThenIgottoapointwhere
Ididn’twanttobesoobstinate
againstfemininity,Iwantedto
takeitinmyownhandsand
embraceit.Istartedthinking
aboutallthesethingsthat
you’retalkingaboutbecauseI
wasraisedtothinkaboutwhat
I’mputtinginmybodyand
what’sgoingonmyskin.Es-
peciallywhenIstartedtotour,
thingslikeessentialoilsand
certainoilsformoisturizing
wereveryimportanttome.
AK:Yeah,sure.Nobodyteaches
youtolookatingredientson
productslikeyoulookatlabels
onfoodbecausepeoplecan’t
pronouncethemandthey
don’tknowwhattheyare.
It’soverwhelming.
SU:Exactly!Peopleassume
thattheymustbeOKbecause
they’retellingyoutoputit
onyourskinandthemodels
lookbeautiful.
AK:Whataresomeofyour
favoriteingredients?
SU:Ilovetamanuoil.It’ssu-
perreparativetoyourskin—it
worksforscarring,forzits,for
anythingreally.Youcanrubit
ontoyourfaceoryoucandab
it—everyone’sskinisdifferent
soit’saprocessoffiguringit
out.ThisiswhatItakeontour.
Ialsolovemacadamiaoilfor
skinandhair.ButIdon’tknow
alotaboutall-naturalmakeup
brands.Helpme!
AK:OK!Sointermsof
makeupbrands,therearealot
ofthem.Iliaisareallygreat
brand—theyhavealotofhigh-
lysaturatedcolors.Thisismy
favoritelipstickbythem,it’s
called“CrimsonandClover.”
Anothersimilarcosmeticcom-
panyisJaneIredale—Ilove
theireyestuff,theyhavegreat
mineral-basedshadows.Ifyou
lookontheblog,wejustdida
hugethingonlipstickcompa-
nieslikeBiteBeautyandRMS.
Therearetonsofthem.People
shouldbeabletowearagreat
lipstickandeyeshadowina
waythat’shealthyforthem.
SU:Ah,Ilovethesecolors!
AK:Also,JuiceBeautyisa
newerbrand,whichusesalot
ofjuiceformulationspacked
withatonofdifferentfruits
andvegetables.Theirgreenap
plebrighteningpadsarereally
wonderful.It’shigh-quality
stuff;thereisn’tanythingsu-
perfluousortoxicinthere.You
know,lessismore.
SU:Absolutely.
AK:S.W.Basicsisalsoa
greatline,andthey’reBrook-
lyn-based.Theyhaveareally
wonderfultonerthatismostly
applecidervinegar,whichis
awesomefortreatingacne.
Theyhaveagreatmakeup
removermadeofjojobaand
oliveoil.Peopledon’trealize
youcanjustuseessentialoils
formakeupremover.Andyou
canleaveitonyourskin!
SU:Yeah,youdon’thaveto
removethemakeupremover!
[Laughs]
AK:It’ssointerestinghow
peoplearesofreakedoutby
oil.IguessIwas,too,because
youalwayslearn,“Scrubthe
oilaway.”
SU:Aslongasit’sgoodoil,it’s
reallybeneficial.
AK:Andnourishingforyour
skin!Whatyouputonyour
skinisjustasimportantas
whatyouputinyourbody.
SU:Totally.Yourbodyisso
absorbent.Itdrinksthings.It’s
crazy.
AK:Imean,therearealsoex-
tremesofnaturalbeauty—I’m
moreinthemoderatespec-
trum.IthinkifI’mconsuming
responsiblythenthereare
certainproducts
Icanmakeexceptionsfor.
Like,Istilldyemyhair—I’m
not100percentnaturaland
that’sOK.AndIstilleatice
cream.[Laughs]
“WelaunchedablogcalledBeautyLiesTruth.
It’sexcitingtosee
howmanyeyes
we’veopened”

7. 12ophelia[Springissue]ophelia[Springissue]13
DIY
Body
Scrub
Headtoaposhspaandyoucantreat
yourself(foramere$100-$300)toan
all-overbodyscrub.Oryoucanspendup
to$50onafancybodyscrub.Whybuy
whenyoucanmakeahomemadebody
scruboutofbasicingredientsyourself?
Allyouneedissaltorsugar,bodyoiland
anice,warmbath.Note:Thisscrubalso
worksgreatfortheface.
Difficulty:Easy
TimeRequired:10minutes
ingredients:•saltorsugar
•oil(organicextravirgin
coconutoil,butyoucanuse
anytypeofoil)
•abowl
•essentialoilsifyouchoose
•aspoon
•loofahmitt(oryoucanuse
yourhands)
Here’sHow:
1.Forthisbodyscrub,youcan
usesaltorsugar.Sugarcanbe
gentlerontheskin.Justmake
suretochooseasugarorsaltthat
hassmallgranulesthatwon’ttear
atskin.Abasictablesaltorsugar
workswonderfully.Ifyouhave
supersensitiveskin,youmight
optforadarkbrownsugar.
2.Chooseanoil.Youcanusebaby
oiloranyofthefollowing:organ-
icextravirgincoconutoil(my
absolutefavorite,whichyoucan
buyatahealthfoodstore),sweet
almondoil,safflower,vegetable.
AccordingtoAllure,makeup
artistJoannaSchlipusesoliveoil
inthehomemadescrubssheuses
onactressEvaLongoria.
3.Youwant1partoilto2parts
sugarorsalt.Placeanywhere
fromafewtablespoonstoacup
ofsaltorsugarinacontainer.
Placehalfthatamountofoil.Mix
withaspoon.Don’tfreakoutif
thesaltsettlestothebottom.It’s
virtuallyimpossibletokeepit
mixed.
4.Ifyouwantyourscrubtosmell
divine,put5dropsofanessential
oilintoyourmixture.Mixwith
spoon.OrdowhatactressCate
Blanchettdoesandputinmint
(muddleitupfirstorputina
blender)andlemonzest.Seemy
listofessentialoils.
BathTime
1.Nowontothebathitself.Ifind
scrubsworkbestondryskin.
Stepintoabathtubandputon
loofahmitts.Iliketheexfoliating
glovesthatyougetinhealthfood
stores.Theyworkverywellto
scrubawaythetoplayerofdead
skincells,leavingyourskinfeel-
ingsupersoft.Ifyoudon’thave
abathmitt,don’tworry,youcan
useyourhands.
2.Takeaspoonfulofthemixture
intoyourpalmsoryourgloves
andthenrubthemixtureallover
yourbodyinacircularmotion.
Ifyoufeelthesaltistooharshon
yourskin,rinseoffthebathmitts
andthenspoononlytheoilonto
themittstocontinue.
3.Onceentirebodyisscrubbed
well,rinsethoroughly.

8. 14ophelia[Springissue]ophelia[Springissue]15
KOWTOW
Forfashionchickswhofavormini-
malism,looknofurtherthanKow-
tow.Theforgivingsilhouettes,rich
hues,andcrispfabrisaren’tjust
on-trendthisseason-thecotton
is100%fairtradeandorganic,and
thebrandevenoffersapeekatits
“seedtogarment”manufacturing
processonitswebsite.Kowtow-
clothing.com
1.
2.
3.
4.MINA+OLYA
Rich,tonalpatterns
andafeminine
aestheticarethisAmericanlabel’sMO—as
ischoosingsustainable,organicfabricsfor
theirflowingskirtsandcoolcut-outjumpers.
FoundersMinaYazdiandOlyaDzilikhovaalso
liketotapintotheirheritages(Iranianand
Russian,respectively)fordesigninspiration—
andwelovetheglobaltwingethatresultsin
theclothing.
5.
APEACETREATY
Thisjewelryline’sDecolookistotallycool,not
kitsch—anyone(orwell,several)ofthestack-
ablebangles,mother-of-pearlpendants,orgeo-
metricearringsareenoughtoelevateanoutfit
tothenextlevel.Thelabel’s
partinsustainability?Founders
FarahMalikandDanaArbib
havecommittedtoworkingwith
villageartisansincountries
likeTurkey,Pakistan,India,and
Nepalwhohavetroublefinding
workotherwise.We’llgladlytake
avirtualtripacrosstheglobe
withonelookatthesegorgeous,
hand-madebaubles.
6.AMOURVERT
ForGoop/Gwynethdiehardsandbreezy
fashionchicksalike,AmourVertistotallyon
point—infact,Paltrowrecentlyteamedup
withthebrandtodesignacapsulecollection.
Thespringcollection’snauticalleaningsand
brightpopsofcolorareperfectfortheweath-
er’supswingintosummer,andthezero-waste
philosophy,sustainablefabrics,andlow-impact
dyesmeanthatyourconsciencewillfeelas
goodasyoulook.
7.H&MCONSCIOUSCOLLEC-
TION
Youknowandlovethefast-fash-
ionbrand,butH&Mhasrecently
wheeledoutamoreenvironmen-
tallyconscioussolution—thatis,
local,sustainablefabrics—toits
lightning-fastproductcycle.What
itdoesn’tsacrificeintheprocess,
however,istheSwedishretailer’s
commitmenttocoolandafford-
ablestyle.
7BRANDSTOKNOWNOW
SVILU
Forthosewhotendtowardamore
relaxed,bohemianvibe,SVILU’scom-
fortablesilhouettes,romanticcolors,
andprettylittledetailswilllikelycall
yourname.FoundersBrittCosgrove
andMarinaPolohavesomeserious
stylecredtobackuptheirfashion-for-
wardaesthetic—PolotrainedatCentral
SaintMartinsandapprenticedat
VeraWang,whileCosgrove’sresume
includesPeterSomforTommyHilfiger.
Thelabel,whichuseslocallyproduced,
organicfibersalsonabbedthe2013
CFDA/LexusEcoFashionChallenge,a
holygrailforanyfledglingsustainable
brand.
FREEDOMOFANIMALS
Thisisn’tthefirsttimewe’vewaxedpoetic
aboutthisultra-chicaccessoriesbrand-and
forgoodreason.It’seasyforfaux-leatherto
look,well,faux,butFreedomofAnimalslooks
anythingbut.ThelabelcreatesitsCéline-es-
quegoodsfromrecycledmaterials(likewater
bottles)andorganiccottonusingapainstaking
processthatnotonlyrequires70%lessenergy
thanmanyofitspeers,butguaranteesaluxe,
butterytexturethatcouldeasilyrivalthereal
thing.Gorgeoustwo-tonedclutchesanduber-
coolbackpacksarethehappyoutcome.

9. 16 ophelia [Spring issue]