Course Advance Rodent Control.pptx

1. Part 1 IPM Standards
There are many varying and unique options for rodent control. Most pest control companies however are
known to use traditional forms of control like trapping and exclusion. There are some companies that use
their own methods though, and they may have their own standards. These companies can vary in styles
that may include the use of new technologies, and the use of old ideas in a new way. The best standard
however, that employs the use of reasonable standards both new and old is an IPM plan.
Many companies like to use poisoning as a primary control solution, however poisoning alone is not
usually the best solution. In many cases poisoning isn't part of the solution at all. The most effective long
term solutions always include methods such as exclusion, and other forms of environmental alteration.
This takes into account the current pest problem and helps to account for an ongoing or recurring pest
problem.
Rats can enter buildings through holes as small as 1/2 inches and can chew through many materials,
even some of those used to prevent their access. This is why it's important to understand how to find and
seal entry points properly and how the materials used can be effective or ineffective.
Rodent control is one of those unique situations where effective IPM may be possible in most cases
without the use of pesticides. Ironically poisons are readily available and many people choose poisons
over the long term solutions found with IPM. The simple combination of trapping and excluding could
correct many ongoing rodent problems, and solve them long term.
Part 2 Materials.
Before doing an exclusion a good technician should always have the items on hand that he or she may
need. The first of which is a bright flashlight. This may be needed for inspecting, and to see what's going
on while an area is being repaired. Likewise, a mirror will come in handy to see areas that might not
otherwise be visible. A big screw driver or an extension pole may be needed to seal areas that are out of
reach. Varying pole attachments may come in handy for different shaped holes.
Steel wool is often used by pest control companies as a go-to solution for many holes. Steel wool
however is not appropriate for most uses. Steel wool rusts, and falls apart making is less than suitable for
any location. Instead copper wool or mesh, sometimes referred to as stuff-it can be used. One
disadvantage of copper mesh is its obvious bronze color. This however can be covered up with caulking,
spackle, stucco patch, concrete, or any other suitable product. Latex caulking turns green when used with
copper mesh however, so be careful which type of caulking you choose when working with copper
mesh.
Another option for many areas that may seem difficult is hardware cloth. It can be shoved into holes using
a long pole or a screwdriver in a similar way to copper mesh, and glued into place similarly. It does not
have the same pliability however as copper mesh. The real advantage of hardware cloth is that it can be
used to seal larger holes. It can be glued into many places and left as is for areas that need ventilation, or
covered with an appropriate caulking, stucco, or concrete mixture to make it look professional.
Solar Seal is a Terpolymer Rubber Adhesive and sealant used to adhere vent screens, and perform many
other repairs. It can be purchased in a formula that is creamy to clear in color, and can be used outside,
or inside as needed. It makes a strong bond with most common construction products. It can be painted
when it has dried and it is weather resistant.

2. Big Stretch is a caulking that is designed for uses where a caulking might need to stretch as the name
implies. The most practical uses in rodent control are in areas around doors, windows, the foundation, or
other areas that are prone to shifting and movement. The limitations of big stretch include that it cannot
be used in heavily trafficked areas or areas prone to moisture.
Expansion foam is used to adhere the screen or copper mesh in more complicated circumstances, or in
cases where the repair is hidden, and screen or mesh alone won't work. The foam generally comes in two
colors. The first of which is the generic yellow orange, and the second is the black. The black foam is
designed for outdoor uses and can handle direct sunlight, and weather. The types of orange foam
however are not well suited for outdoor use. They get hard and crack when exposed to the weather and
when exposed to moisture they soften up over time and fall apart. The main disadvantage of these foams
is that they cannot be used alone. Rodents can eat right through them, and the foam becomes useless as
part of a rodent control program. Therefore, the foam should be used only when it is on top of, or forced
through hardware cloth or copper mesh. It also continues expanding as it dries which can lead to
unexpected results if a technician is not careful. It should never be used as a glue to hold in vent screens
because it will end up looking worse than expected as a result of its continuing expansion.
Part 3 Exclusions
Track homes are generally built in a very hasty manner with small areas of entry left through
inconsistencies, and areas that may have needed a second look before finishing construction. In track
homes inspectors should pay attention to roof soffits that may be missing flashing, stucco, or framing
which allows rodent entry to occur. As custom homes, and older homes change with age these soffits can
become open as a result of roof repairs, and other work done on the home. Careful inspection should be
made in these areas since exclusions can be tough to accomplish especially on homes with tile roofs.
When possible the best method involves the use of hardware cloth or copper mesh and an expansion
foam that can be used to glue it all in place. In cases where expansion foam is not an option caulking can
be used to glue the hardware cloth, or copper mesh into place.

3. . A soffited roof area highlighted. Pictured Below
Houses generally have areas of ventilation and vent screens that are designed to allow for air flow.
Houses on a raised foundation can will have subarea vents that often become damaged as a result of
other tradesman that have done work on the property. Plumbers, cable guys, and handymen will often
remove or damage screens for their own purpose. In many cases an inferior type of screen was used at
the time of construction, or previous repairs were inadequate. Pest technicians should whenever possible
carefully remove the old screen and replace it with hardware cloth. Clear caulking designed for exterior
use is usually appropriate, but more advanced technicians can use caulking that matches the color of the
house, or even use pre-mixed stucco patch to hide the caulking.
Small holes in screen can be patched by placing a small piece of screen over the hole and feeding wire
through and attaching the new piece of screen to the existing one. Where screens have been damaged
by pipes, conduits, or wires the best bet is usually to cut out and replace the entire screen. In some
cases, the screens have so many pipes, wires, and conduits running through them that they cannot be
easily replaced. In these cases, small amounts of copper mesh and an appropriate caulking are the most
professional solution. Some areas however, do tend to be a very custom repair. Pest control technicians

4. should always remember that functionality and appearance are both important, and most customers will
treat an unprofessional looking job the same as an ineffective job.
. Crawl vents highlighted Attic vents highlighted.
Along the foundation of many houses is a line of small flashing referred to as the weep screed. This
weep screed, or simply a weep as it is sometimes called is meant to be there, and allows the walls to
breath. In some cases, however, it is stretched, rusted, or damaged in some way that allows rodent entry.
Inspections of the weep can be done using a mirror as you walk along the foundation of the building. The
weep is always located where the siding ends leaving behind an exposed foundation below it. Exclusions
of this area are usually done by plugging the section or sections of damaged weep with copper mesh. If
the bronze color shows it can be covered with an applicable caulking of a matching color. Rodents have
been known to follow the wall voids upwards where there is no fire block or a hole in the fire block
allowing access into attics.

5. . A house on a slab with the exposed foundation and weep screed highlighted.
Air conditioner lines are another area of major concern since they are often used by rodents as an access
point, and often ran through the walls of house from the ground level. In cases where they enter the wall,
or crawl space at ground level a small metal guard can be noted where the line enters the house. This is
generally the best place to seal the hole and it should be sealed flush so that when it dries it looks clean.
Many people over do the insulating foam, or copper mesh in this area. The key to a successful
professional looking patch is to force the copper mesh as deep into the hole as possible. If mesh or foam
can be seen, then a layer of caulking may be applied and smoothed to make it look clean. Some AC lines
are run from the ground level up to the attic, or other area along the outside of the structure. Usually a
metal guard will run the length of the line, protecting it most of the way. Rats and mice can run along the
line, hidden by the guard the entire way. The area at the top where the pipe enters the structure is
blocked from view by the guard in many cases, hiding the rodent access point. This is very problematic,
since rodents could potentially have a protected path to their access point, and also a protected access
point itself. The guard should be removed in this case and any hidden holes repaired. As the guard is
reattached hardware cloth can be used at the bottom to prevent rodents from climbing again.

6. Pictures of air conditioner line with a metal guard over it being removed exposing rodent access.
Garage doors are another common area of entry that typically gets overlooked. Wooden garage doors
are generally hard to adjust to a tight seal, and as they get older the gap around them tends to get worse.
Wooden garage doors when they can be fixed should be replaced with new roll-up style doors that can
made to seal with the ground more firmly. Metal doors that close uneven or are not flush with the ground
are also a huge problem. The weather stripping along the bottom of a roll-up door should be checked for
gnaw marks. Rats only need to chew a small amount so that they can fit, but the evidence, when there, is
blatantly obvious.
There are many other areas of entry and no matter how complete of a list that anyone tries to put
together it will most likely not be complete. Inspection for rodents therefore should be complete and
include all areas of the structure. This means that all bath traps should be opened, doors should be
checked for adequate weather stripping and door sweeps, window screens checked for holes, crawl
access points inspected, and conducive conditions like trees on the roof be noted for correction.
Inspectors should remember that not every hole can be found from the outside. With regards to crawls,
and roofs it's easier to see daylight coming in than darkness coming out. Likewise, holes in heater
closets, and garages may lead back to the original entry point.

7. Sub Access Highlighted
Gable Vent Highlighted.
Some houses have holes internally within the structure. As part of an IPM plan the sealing of these areas
may be necessary. In many cases bath-trap openings are located in crawlspaces providing access to
plumbing and other items of necessity. Likewise, ventilation can be there from existing ground furnaces
removed ground furnaces, and other types of plumbing, ducting and ventilation that may run from the
crawlspace to the attic. Limiting rodent access to these areas, and travel points may aid in the control of
rodent populations throughout the structure.
Part 4 Types of rodenticides.
There are 3 primary categories that rodenticides can be grouped into. The different types of rodenticides
fall into many chemical classes but these categories are established as a result of development, modes of
action, their usage, and status. One category of note is First generation anticoagulants. This includes
warfarin, diphacinone, and some others. These toxicants are generally slow acting, and almost always
require multiple feedings for death to occur. Because they are slow acting and require multiple feedings
they are the most environmentally reasonable solution. Products such as JT Eaton's Peanut Butter and
Molasses bait (EPA 56-42) provide good protection with a lower impact than other rodenticides.
Second generation anticoagulant rodenticides or SGAR's as they are sometimes referred, are the more
modern, more fast acting alternative. SGAR's have received a lot of bad press in recent years because
they have been implicated in the deaths of many non-target animals, and species. These active
ingredients found in SGAR's have high rates of secondary poisoning in a lot of cases, and the state of
California has even put a ban on many of these products. Because these active ingredients were found in
so many single use packets, and other over the counter solutions, many homeowners were irresponsible
with these products. Likewise, the low cost of them was attractive to pest control companies looking to cut
corners. As a result, they became widely overused, and have been the focus of federal and local
governments around the world.

8. The third category of pesticides, as laid out here, is non-anticoagulants. This includes all other
rodenticides not listed in the other two categories. Some non-anticoagulants have very limited uses, but a
more common product that the average pest technician never encountered is Zinc Phosphide. Zinc
Phosphide, which can be found in products under the brand name ZP is commonly used against
burrowing rodents such as gophers. ZP bait functions by releasing phosphine gas inside of a rodent’s
stomach when it comes into contact with stomach acid. As a result, the phosphine slowly expands the
stomach lining, and leeches into the rodent’s body. This is one of the fastest acting rodenticides, and it is
highly toxic to birds. It does not have a high rate of secondary poisoning, even to birds, which makes it
attractive to pest control companies, and the environmentally conscious. Bromethalin, another single
feeding bait, works as a neurotoxicant. It poisons the central nervous system, and with a single dose it
can induce respiratory distress ultimately causing death in smaller mammals such as rodents.
Cloacalciferol is another product that can kill with a single feeding, but it is very low in toxicity and only
becomes toxic in large or repeated doses. The active ingredient causes hypercalcemia which is a mode
of action where calcium builds up to excessive levels in the blood. This can lead to heart problems or liver
failure.
Part 5 Setting Traps and bait stations.
Rats tend have terrible vision, and as a result they are forced to use their other senses to get around.
As rats move from place to place they tend let their whiskers rub along walls in houses, fireplace edges,
crawlspace foundations, and attic joists. Placing traps in a rat, or mouse's path is the most feasible and
obvious method of catching one. This means that traps with triggers should be set along walls, joists, and
other vertical items that rodents may run along. Placing traps in the center of an open area is not
generally feasible since rats and mice aren't likely to hit a trap in those kinds of areas. Likewise, the
same is true of bait stations. Bait stations should also be placed along areas of travel with the stations'
entry holes along their path. Some bait station types are designed so that may hold traps instead of bait.
The most common brand is Protecta with their Sidekick stations. Sidekick stations hold special "T-Rex
traps." These "T-Rex" traps can placed inside of the stations and the stations along walls in a rodent’s
path. The combination of Sidekick, and "T-Rex" trap can be used outside or inside. Because the
Sidekick stations are baffled inside they are child and pet resistant.

9. Figure 8. Placement of traps.
Bait station placement is critical since bait stations should be both effective, and relatively safe. For high
levels of effectiveness bait stations should be placed 15 to 50 feet apart along walls, structure
foundations, and other necessary areas. A key action in determining where hot spots may exist is
inspecting for droppings, gnawed fruit shells, and piles of empty snail shells. Baits stations can be placed
in these hot spots if they are safe and appropriate locations. Another good location where bait stations
are sure to be effective is in places between harborage, and food sources. In fact, anywhere along a
rodent’s path is good, but putting in the path of their food is better, since rat baits are generally formulated
as stomach poisons.