1. Technical Development
Nahdin Sabla

2. Pattern makers are the technical backbone to
the garment manufacturing process,
and have more control than any other single
person to produce a quality outcome.
Pattern making is vital for designers to fully
comprehend the apparel development
process.

3. Ted Baker

4. Ulyana Sergeenko

5. Product Development Process

6. Drape on the Stand

7. Digitize & Adjust on Gerber

8. Plot Pattern & Cut Pieces

9. Fuse and Stitch Darts

10. Construction Comments

11. Fit Session
DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14
BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12
SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 19/05/2016
FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 26/05/2016
PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L
MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample
DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, top fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center
front, A line skirt with curved hem
Comments:
• Rotate b ust dart into waist • Remoce pocket? Eliminate pockets from design?
• Add 2 cm at hips (midway from pocket) • Move sleeve seam in 2/3 cm towards CF
• Reduce 2 cm from bk bodice at waist egde • Add 1 cm to waist circunference (waistband)
to nothing on side seam • Draft 20 cm long straps 1.5 cm width
• Reduce 1 cm at side seam ft bodice • Increase 1 cm all way through sleeve
to 0.7 at CFT • Add balance notches ( use 50% if needed)
• Drop BND 6cm CBK to 2 cm at edge
• Reduce sleeve 2 cm at back to 0 at the curve
Fit Report NSY
First Sample Toile Nahdin Sabla

12. Dart Rotation Designs

13. Dart Rotation Toiles
DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14
BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12
SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 19/05/2016
FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 26/05/2016
PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L
MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample
DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, top fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center
front, A line skirt with curved hem
Two Darts Toile One Seam Toile
Three Darts Toile Approved with the following modifications:
• First Dart (next to side seam) reduce 1 cm
• Thrid Dart reduce 2.5 cm
Fit Report NSY
Design Reconsideration Nahdin Sabla

14. Grading
TOP Nahdin Sabla
DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14
BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12
SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 4/03/2016
FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 27/05/2016
PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L
MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample
DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, tops fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center
front, A line skirt with curved hem
GIRTH MEASUREMENTS AND TOLERANCE ARE WHOLE MEASURENTS
10
Increm
ent
12
Increm
ent
14
Toleran
(+/-)
24.7 0.3 25 0.3 25.3 0.5 Height Girth Length
25.9 0.3 26.2 0.3 26.5 0.5 X X
65.8 4 69.8 4 73.8 1 Grade type
88 4 92 4 96 1 Zero Point FT
34.6 1 35.6 1 36.6 0.5 Zero Point BK
27.5 1 28.5 1 29.5 0.5 Zero Point SL
41.6 0.3 41.9 0.3 42.2 0.5 Fit Category
29.9 1.2 31.1 1.2 32.3 0.5 Comments:
24.2 0.6 24.8 0.6 25.4 0.5
12.5 4 16.5 4 20.5 0.5
10.7 4 14.7 4 18.7 0.5
8.5 0 8.5 0 8.5 0.2
10.5 0 10.5 0 10.5 0.2
11.5 none 11.5 none 11.5 none
14 none 14 none 14 none
13.2 none 13.2 none 13.2 none
17 0 17 0 17
9 0 9 0 9
50 0 50 0 50 none
4 0 4 0 4 0.5
Waist
Bust (2.5cm from armhole)
Across Back (along top edge)
NSYGrading Chart
sample
size
Measurement CM
CB Length (top edghe to waist)
CF Length ( top edge to waist)
Grading Specification
Across Front (along top edge)
Sleeve length (from head)
Bicep
Wrist
Back Armhole
Front Armhole
sleeve dart length
zip length
facing depth
Cut out length from waist to point
Cut out width
center front dart length
middle dart length
side seam dart length
side seam length from under arm to waist
Increm. To be
applied:
three dimensional
Bust static waist moving upwards
center back
center bicep line
tight
TAPE
Zero Point
Zero Point
X =0.3
Y =0
X =0.3
Y =0.5
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y = 1
X =0.3
Y =-0.4
X =0.3
Y = 0.4
X =0.3
Y = 0
X =0
Y = -0.6
X =0
Y =-0.3
X = 0
Y =0.6
X = 0
Y =0.3
X =0.3
Y =0
X =0.3
Y =0.5
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y =0.5
X = 0
Y = 0
X = 0
Y = 0
For all dartpoints
SKIRT Nahdin Sabla
DESIGNER: Nahdin Sabla SIZE RANGE: 10 → 14
BRAND: NSY SAMPLE SIZE: 12
SEASON: Spring 2017 DATE FIRST SENT: 4/03/2016
FIT TYPE: Fitted on bust/waist DATE REVISED: 27/05/2016
PATTERN CUTTER: Nahdin Sabla FABRICATION: 2 mts M / 2 mts L
MODEL : NSY-017-DRESS STATUS: First Sample
DESCRIPTION : Off Shoulder dress, tops fitted with a inverted V Shape opening at the center
front, A line skirt with curved hem
GIRTH MEASUREMENTS AND TOLERANCE ARE WHOLE MEASURENTS
10
Increm
ent
12
Increm
ent
14
Toleran
(+/-)
104.5 0 104.5 0 104.5 0.5 Height Girth Length
CF Length ( top edge of waistband to hem) 106.2 0 106.2 0 106.2 0.5 X X
waistband depth 3.6 3.6 3.6 1 Grade type
waist along top edge of waistband 63.6 4 67.6 4 71.6 1 Zero Point FT
66.1 4 70.1 4 74.1 1 Zero Point BK
88.2 4 92.2 4 96.2 1 Fit Category
102.9 4 106.9 4 110.9 1 Comments:
177.4 4 181.4 4 185.4 1
Measurement CM
CB Length (top edge of waistband to hem)
waist along lower edge of waistband
Top Hip ( 10cm down from waist)
Low Hip ( 20cm down from waist)
Hem Circumference (measured straight)
Semi- fitting
Grading Chart
Grading Specification
Increm. To
be applied:
two dimensional
center back
center back
NSY
sample
size
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
X = 0
Y = 0
X = 0
Y = 2
X = 0
Y = 0
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y = 0
X = 0
Y = 2
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y = 0
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y = 1
X = 0
Y = 1
Zero Point
Zero Point
X = 0
Y = 2
X = 0
Y = 2

15. Marker
Final Marker for main fabric: 24meters, 10.cm + 5% waste → 24 meters + 1.2 = 25.3 mts.
Final Marker Lining: LN: 19meters, 21.cm + 5% waste → 19 meters + 0.95 = 19.95 mts.

16. Fitting on Optitex

18. From Gerber to Optitex

19. THANK YOU