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1. Y
ou might call Milan the Manhattan
of Italy, where eating out – eating
out well of course – is a way of life
for a fast pace generation. Certainly,
the Milanese cook, they are Italian, but more
than any other city in Italy Milanese indulge af-
ter work. Happy hours (aka, the famous aperitivo
which originated 130 km west of Milan), and
weekend pizzas are trademarks for these foodie
folks. Before moving to Milan I was warned by
my many Italian patrons and traveler gurus that
Milan among Italians is not known for its cuisine.
Pizza is absolutely not a regional speciality. Hav-
ing already experienced the truths behind each
region and their individual characteristics – rang-
ing from foods and ingredients to dialect, ac-
cents, trends, lifestyle, even organized crime – I
was embarking upon an uphill stretch to find the
best pizza in Milan. I already knew that Milanese
risotto couldn’t compare with that in Veneto; Mil-
anese cannoli couldn’t hold a light to those from
Sicily; And Milanese pizza is sheer comedy to
Napoletani. Bingo. That was just what I needed
to narrow my search. My list of Napoletani piz-
zerias went from 15 to 4 in one month. I scouted
locations and eliminated any pizzeria that in-
cluded the following: Egyptian cooks, a menu
without Mozzarella di Bufala, a pizza priced
over 11 euro, pizza with crust beyond 1.5-2 cm
high, pizza offered for delivery service, pizza
with more than 3-4 ingredients, pizza cooked in
an electric oven, and pizza served with chicken.
This distinct knowledge of a real pizza Napolet-
where naples
ana stemmed from a real Napoletana pizza expe-
rience while living in San Francisco with a native
Italian. Yes, in America. It’s a pizza with regal
MEETS MILAN
by Angela Gleason
origins and a history that often vanishes between
a melting pot of cultures and varying ingredients.
Though the first and most renowned pizza, Pizza
Margherita was served as a request by the Queen
of Italy (Margherita of Savoy circa 1889), the
Italian flag of flavors took some adventures over
the years contributing to a more extensive menu
today. But simple has remained the forefront
theme for pizza connoisseurs and to consider
it a pizza Napoletana, their rules are forever in
tact. Today, the longest running pizzeria remains
standing in a corner of Naples. Unparalleled, it
still serves the very original and only the Pizza
Margherita. The dawning of the global pizza era
began in these wooden Napoletano ovens where
today marks the history of a never ending food
trend. So if you’re not in Naples, how do get the
best pizza on the town?

2. On a winter night calling for warmth, I set out to test the during the holidays. The oven, wooden and roaring was like There we were on a Spring evening surrounded by the stones of a discouraged to try others, and confident that La Taverna
first place on my list: I Capatosta. Translation: very stubborn a winter fireplace. The walls were stone and tables old and sidestreet neighborhood; dinning outside among the thick aroma well represents their regions and serves Milan’s best Na-
people from Naples. It was a 10 minute walk from my front heavy, full of happy families and fun couples. The lighting and heat of bombastic pizzas at La Taverna, my last shot at Mi- poletana pizza. So what is it exactly that makes this pizza
door: seating 50 stomachs, I scrunched up against the front emitted tinges of orange and yellow, warm and saturated; lan’s best pizza. I knew from the moment we arrived, our eyes so packed with positives? How can a pizza be so unpar-
wall and ordered the Peroni alla spina (on tap) and melted plates were enormous but simple with meats and herbs lay- and necks like owls fixed on pizzas in every direction, that would alleled in the land of pizza?
into the fresh aroma of flour and basil. After a 45 minute ering pasta. The pizza arena awaited us in the tavern down- be a palette experience like none other. This place was all about
session of indulgence, the last crumb of my Margherita was stairs. We, myself and Padovano, descended to the lower the pizza. Crust exploding, a perfect rise; marks of passionate an- I decided to go behind the scenes of La Taverna to get the
consumed. Regardless of the crowd (the red necks of Ital- level against a brick wall covered in black and white photos cestral hands imprinted in the folds; steam like a mirage drifting scoop. Nestled behind a bustling tram and Smart-packed
ians) and the service (think Black Friday), the cooks were of Aldo Giuffrè perhaps, the Italian Charlie Chaplin, along up and into a low cloud of flavors. Olive oil like silk draped over cobbles, a stylish target of men and women socialized
passionate. It was all about the pizza and only the pizza; one with 1950s advertising in Napoletano dialect for flour and the porcelain platter beneath this goddess of a pie. Visual flavor under white canopies against a black and white backdrop
that stopped me in my tracks. How of Pucinella characters while digesting
much better can a pizza get? one of Milan’s top pizzas to aromas of
a 15 year old kitchen and the sounds of
Going out for pizza on a Sunday the mandolin paired with the cello. Ad-
evening after a loungeful journal- jacent to the outside tables stood a man
filled day indoors is very traditional of medium size, freshly shaved with
for Italians. I decided to take my next sharp black hair and an iPhone while se-
pizza on Sunday, a slightly warmer ductively passing puffs against a 1600s
evening and in the company of my wooden door. Signor Davide Lannaco
Padovano, Stefano. The second en- of La Taverna was not expecting my
counter was by far the most romantic arrival. He had recently opened L’altra
with pizza. Normally I would discard Taverna directly behind his La Taverna
a place with multiple locations and where I had finished dining. I strolled
certainly one remotely close to com- over to catch him for some insight on
mercial. However, Fratelli la Bufala his locally famous low-profile kitchen.
was an exception for being a local Offered a glass of Limoncello, I parked
fave. A seductive backdrop, dark his- my Graziella and sipped the yellow liq-
tory, and a refined collection of art uor while the server called Davide to
decor, this band of Napoletani held my attention. Here began a casual dual-
a spot among pizza fans. The place guessing language exchange on the ins
was packed and we managed to snag and outs of pizza Napoletana.
a square within minutes (unheard of)
against the mozzarella bar. The reds “The key to a true pizza Napoletana is
of tomatoes, plump and saturated; simple: fresh and sparse. Mozzarella
greens of basil, artichokes, and gar- is the treasure, and if you’re willing to
nishes; shades of white and gold - the pay an extra piece of pocket for the buf-
purity and freshness of layered cheese falo’s milk, you’ll score” Davide eased
and cushions of dough. As I slivered into my question about the ingredients.
into the thick mozzarella and sliced Mozzarella di Bufala which is driven to
through the golden pie, I welcomed David’s kitchen each day from a small
the next level of pizza. Though the farm in the Campania region (country-
pizza was a real pleaser apart from side of Lazio) is moist and slightly bitter
the frills of the atmosphere, I had a with a curding center of textured milk
hunch that the best was still to come. cream, which serves to accent the rich-
As orgasmic as this Diavola was La Taverna. Scene from staff calender, featuring La Taverna pizza and a local beer. Courtesy of La Taverna. ness of a thinly sliced prosciutto and
(salame piccante, tomatoes, olive oil, dark basil. The milk from marshland
mozzarella), I was already gearing up for the third place. olive oil (insert dialect). The scent of olive oil was thick and to this magnitude is a sin. This is no common occurrence. It was buffalo lend this exquiste cheese its top-notch standing.
rich and so pure you could taste it in the air. Twenty-three though one could consume the pizza visually and be completely “The Prosciutto, of top quality and delivered daily from
Of course my list of five places to try, in effort to deter- bites of sweet sausage doused in fresh ground pepper and fulfilled. Before raising a fork to make the first scalded bite, I had Parma is slightly sweet compared to San Danielle, our
mine the best pizza in Milano, was subject to disagree- smothered in ricotta and mozzarella di bufala, buried under marked a set of expectations, high – which all vanished with the other preferred meats from a butcher house in Friuli.
ment regardless of my dedication to research. When the a soft hill of oven hot crust, put Capatosta to shame. Pizza swallow. The winner. When we stepped into La Taverna, it was A world-famous meat producer, San Daneille prosciutto
following Sunday arrived, not soon enough, I was putting no. 3 was my no. 1 choice. Three down, one to go. After the closest I’d come to Napoli. This pizza should have been il- tends to be saltier. Alternative mozzarella is Fior di latte,
all research aside and going off sheer instinct, a hidden this unearthing pizza outing from at Frijenno Magnanno, it legal. It was sinfully scrumptious. The name evokes downstairs; or Vacca which are slightly creamier and more absorbent
discovery – a tip off from a local who dodged the radars was an experience that required recovering from. And so I it also connotes to an Italian liberalist Lista Taverna, and an Ital- of a saltier meat.” As Davide engaged in the details of his
and said “GO THERE! (Vai vai, mangia!)” We booked for decided to take a couple of Sundays off before attacking my ian city in Calabria, as well as a small restaurant serving Greek top ingredients, he emphasized their individuals charac-
Frijenno Magnanno. The setting was like my Nana’s home final selection. food. It was certainly the best pizza in Milan, thus far. I am almost teristics and the importance for pairing toppings.

3. These simple and pure ingredients are not only the foundation as the prosciutto crudo.” La Taverna of 15 years has
of the first pizzas in Naples, but the pride and joy that La Tav- maintained a loyal crowd of locals and a lucky tourists
erna, maintaining their kitchen’s reputation and the art of their ranging from young couples to small families, many re-
creation. Apart from these mandatory fresh ingredients, and peat customers. His latest spot L’altra Taverna (The other
their simplicity, Davide commanded my attention to the utmost Tavern) attracts a more after-work special, slightly trend-
temperamental and distinguishing factor in the making of a real ier crowd offering other kitchen plates beyond the pizza.
pizza Napoletana: the preparation of the dough. The golden pie. The atmosphere here is more chic presenting a slightly
La Taverna
Via F. Anzani, 3 | L’altra Taverna
Via Cadore 8
More delicate than a crystal champaign flute is the impasto, or more romantic dining experience. Pizza-goers are greeted Milano
the pizza crust. “Water from Naples is known to be of lesser by the famous image (featured on the cover), of Ghisa 02 91270232
quality, and when combined with the flour (one of careful se- (a Milanese policeman) greeting the historic Napolitano latavernasrl@gmail.com
lection) it has an unparalleled ability to create texture like no icon Totó, symbolizing the meeting of two dramatic and www.latavernapizzeria.it
other dough. Essentially, the dirty water has a polishing effect.” culturally opposite characters. This image sets the tone for
And when this mixture is paired this out-of-place cuisine where
with the patience and skill, the one will inevitably feel captured.
results are explosive. The secret Though the pricing remains the
to preparing a good dough - what same between the two, L’altra
sets the Napoletana pizza apart Taverna sees more demand for
above all traits - is the proportion the bufala, and extras (ricotta, Frijenno Magnanno
and time allotted for rise. Davide salame, variations on toppings) Via Benedetto Marcello 93
is seemed nearly religious about and a preference for the artisan how about that pizza? Milano
MEET MILAN’S Best:
the precision of timing to allow for beers (Menobrea, insert other). 02 29403654
the perfect rise. “If the dough is info@ frijennomagnanno.it
prepared and immediately sent to Davide resides just outside www.frijennomagnanno.it
the oven, it is being baked prema- of Milano in Varese and very (theh following pizzerias were mentioned in this article)
turely. As a result, when a pizza in much enjoys his buzz to Milano.
this state is consumed, it continues Milano, completely separate
to expand in the stomach leaving world from Naples (some claim
the consumer feeling heavy, una- “a different Italy”), caters to the
ble to enjoy the value of each bite. eating out mentality. For Davide, I Capatosta
Furthermore, this leaves one less a social environment is beneficial Alzaia Naviglio Grande 56
room for a complemented beer or to one’s health and to his kitchen. Milano
after dinner digestive. On the con- With little advertising, La Tav- 02 89415910
trary, when preparing the dough erna and L’altra Taverna are hot info@icapatosta.it
allowing it to fully rise lends more spots based on word of mouth www.icapatosta.it
quality to create a pizza, and when and local reviews. One pivotal
consumed, it is more evenly di- review came in 2008 when Cor-
gested.” Thus, pairing well with riere della Sera covered Davide’s
a beverage and permitting a more pizza and mentioned the rare rip-
orgasmic experience. ieno crust, which no other place
yet produces. He takes great
After a stolen hour with Davide, pride in his kitchen staff, mostly Fratelli la Bufala
drilling him on the real traits of young men who have studied the Corso di Porta Ticinese 16
Pizza Napoletana, he offered me La Taverna. Scene from staff calender, featuring their baquette pizza. art of pizza Napoletana. A young Colonne San Lorenzo, Milano
their business calendar which dis- Courtesy of La Taverna. business man, his motivation 02 8376529
played a collection of photographs is to increase the awareness of flb-ticinese@fratellilabufala.com
by a local professional who portrayed the staff in scenes from quality dinning experiences and with the intimacy that his www.fratellilabufala.eu
famous Italian Pulcinella shorts dating back to the 1920s (im- pizzerias provide. He expersses no interest in expanding
ages featured on the previous page, and opposite). Both Da- his pizza beyond his management, perferring to maintain
vide’s parents are from Naples. In fact one of La Taverna’s piz- his work in Milan without creating a chain business. “The
zas, the ripieno, is based on a local favorite growing up where more restaurants you open, the likely your quality is to de-
Davide would frequent with his father. This specialty is crafted crease. I prefer to focus my energy on improving what we
with ricotta and mushroom cream rolled inside the outer crust. have now.” For all of these reasons, and after some serious
Though heavy and mighty fulfilling, the pizza ripieno definitely pizza experiences, it is safe to say that the best pizza (the
draws a particular crowd. “In general, catering to young eat- pizza Napoletana) in Milano and perhaps throughout the
ers and families, the Margherita is a popular favorite as well Northern regions lies in the heart and hands of La Taverna.